Handbook of. natural fibres. Volume 1: Types, properties and. factors affecting breeding and cultivation. Ryszard. TheTextile Institute.

Transcription

1 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 118 Handbook of natural fibres Volume 1: Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation Ryszard Edited by M. Koztowski TheTextile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi

2 Contents Contributor contact details Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xii xviii 1 Introduction to natural textile fibres 1 R. M. Kozlowski and M. Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland 1.1 Introduction Historical background of natural fibres Handbook of natural fibres Sources of further information and advice References 8 Part I Fundamentals: types of fibre, properties, identification and testing 9 2 Cotton fibres 11 M. Dochia and C. Sirghie, 'Aurel Vlaicu' University of Arad, Romania, R. M. Kozlowski, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and Z. Roskwitalski, Izba Bawemy Gdynia, Poland 2.1 Introduction The cotton plant Cotton fibre structure Physical properties of cotton Measuring cotton quality Future trends Acknowledgement References 22 v

3 vi Contents 3 Bast fibres: jute 24 S. Roy and L. B. Lutfar, International Jute Study Group (IJSG), Bangladesh 3.1 Introduction to jute Types of jute Fibre morphology Chemical composition Properties of jute Typical applications Conclusions Sources of further information and advice Bibliography 45 4 Bast fibres: ramie 47 S. Roy and L. B. Lutfar, International Jute Study Group (IJSG), Bangladesh 4.1 Introduction to ramie Types of ramie Fibre morphology Properties of ramie Typical applications Conclusions Sources of further information and advice Bibliography 55 5 Bast fibres: flax 56 R. M. KoztowsKi and M. Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and A. M. Allam, Expert/Advisor, Egypt 5.1 Introduction Flax plant morphology Structure and chemical composition of flax Flax harvesting Degumming Scutching Hackling (combing) 'Cottonization' Spinning Bleaching, dyeing Finishing 98

4 Contents vii 5.12 Recapitulation Conclusions and future trends Sources of further information and advice References Bast fibres: hemp cultivation and production 114 M. R. L. Horne, De Montfort University, UK 6.1 Introduction The hemp plant Hemp cultivation Retting Fibre extraction Hemp fibre spinning References Silk fibres 146 K. M. Babu, Bapuji Institute of Engineering and Technology (BIET), India 7.1 Introduction Silk industry Microstructure and appearance Amino acid composition Properties of silk Applications of silk Future trends Conclusions Sources of further information and advice References Wool fibres 171 H. Kuffner, formerly at International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), Belgium and C. Popescu, DWI an der RWTH Aachen e. V., Germany 8.1 Introduction The effects of the economy on wool Wool production Chemistry and morphology Properties of wool Industrial usage of wool Branding and consumer friendliness References 194

5 viii Contents 9 Mohair, cashmere and other animal hair fibres L. Hunter, CSIR and Nelson Mandela Metropolitan 196 University (NMMU), South Africa 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Alpaca 9.3 Angora rabbit hair 9.4 Camel 9.5 Cashgora 9.6 Cashmere 9.7 Guanaco 9.8 Llama 9.9 Mohair 9.10 Musk-ox 9.11 Vicuna 9.12 Yak 9.13 Other animal hair fibres 9.14 Acknowledgements 9.15 References Bioengineered natural textile fibres 291 K. Wielgus, K. Grajek and M. Szalata, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and R. Slomski, Poznari University of Life Sciences, Poland 10.1 Introduction Bacterial cellulose Enzymatic treatment of cellulose Future trends Conclusions References Appendix: abbreviations Identification of natural textile fibres 314 R. K. Nayak, R. Padhye and S. Fergusson, RMIT University, Australia 11.1 Introduction Natural textile fibres Identification methods Practical approach Forensic analysis Future trends 340

6 Contents ix 11.7 References Appendix: abbreviations Testing of natural textile fibres 345 J. Harwood, Copernicus Textile Solutions Ltd, UK (formerly at De Montfort University, UK) and R. Harwood, Copernicus Textile Solutions Ltd, UK 12.1 Introduction Key issues in testing natural fibres Test methods for natural fibres Measuring the physical properties of natural fibres Chemical properties Instrumental methods Future trends Sources of further information and advice References Appendix: abbreviations 390 Part II Improving natural fibre production through breeding and cultivation Developments in fibrous flax breeding and cultivation 393 M. Pavelek, E. TejklovA, M. OndRej and M. VrbovA, AGRITEC Plant Research Ltd, Czech Republic 13.1 Introduction Key issues of fibre flax breeding and cultivating Methods of flax and linseed breeding Modern methods in flax and linseed breeding Sources of further information and advice References Appendix: abbreviations Cotton breeding and agro-technology 469 J. K. Dever, Texas AgriLife Research/Texas A&M System, USA 14.1 Introduction Genetic review Breeding methodology Agronomy and physiology Breeding targets 496

7 x Contents 14.6 Future trends Conclusions Sources of further information and advice References Appendix: abbreviations Fibre flax cultivation in sustainable agriculture 508 K. Heller, P. Baraniecki and M. Praczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland 15.1 Introduction to fibre flax for sustainable agriculture Flax growth cycle The role of cultivars in sustainable flax cultivation The importance of crop rotation Flax cultivation requirements Flax harvest Future trends in fibre flax growing for sustainable agriculture References Prevention of fungal growth in natural fibres 532 J. Walentowska Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and R. M. Kozlowski, Institute for Engineering of Polymer Materials and Dyes (IMPIB), Poland 16.1 Introduction Key issues of fungal growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres Methods of preventing fungal growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres 16.4 Future trends 16.5 Conclusion 16.6 Sources of further information and advice 16.7 References Genetic engineering and biotechnology of natural textile fiber plants 550 K. Wielgus, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland, M. Szalata, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and Poznan University of Life Sciences, Poland and R. Slomski, Poznan University of Life Sciences, Poland

8 Contents xi 17.1 Introduction: global status of commercialized biotech crops Fibrous biotech crops Future trends Conclusions Sources of further information and advice References Appendix: abbreviations Wild silk: wild silk enterprise programs to alleviate poverty and protect habitats 576 C. L. Craig, Harvard University, USA and Conservation through Poverty Alleviation, International, USA, R. S. Weber, Conservation through Poverty Alleviation, International, USA and H. Akai, Tokoyo University of Agriculture, Japan 18.1 Introduction Definition of silk Silk structure and function Wild silk enterprise Wild silk enterprise versus alternative conservation and poverty alleviation programs in Madagascar Conclusion References 600 Index 605