WATER ENERGY FOOD AND FIBRE. July 16, 2014 Istanbul

Transcription

1 WATER ENERGY FOOD AND FIBRE July 16, 2014 Istanbul

2 OUR MISSION We INSPIRE and EQUIP people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.

3 OUR GOALS We help embed sustainability into evolving business and supply chain strategies We make it easier to adapt to changing opportunities and requirements in textile sustainability We work to ensure that actions taken toward sustainability result in real and meaningful change

4 A SNAPSHOT OF SOME OF OUR MEMBERS G-Star Raw logo.pdf 1/14/10 11:24:11 AM LEADING INFORMING CONNECTING

5 AGENDA - SETTING THE SCENE WHAT MATTERS? ORGANIC & INNOVATION EGYPT INDIA CHINA TAJIKISTAN

6 1. SETTING THE SCENE

7 SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES IN COTTON PRODUCTION Dependence and excessive use of agrochemicals (fertilizers and pesticides) Impact of toxic and persistent pesticides on people and ecosystems Cost of inputs, profitability and threatened livelihoods Labour rights and child labour Water consumption and contamination Soil loss and degradation

8 COTTON PRODUCTION IN CENTRAL ASIA Cotton is a major crop for the Central Asia region - dominated by Uzbekistan. Production is around 1,688,000 tonnes of fibre (much less than the high of 2,996,000 in 1980). 2/3 of production is exported, contributing 10% of world cotton exports, although a decline in exports is partly explained by increased consumption in the textiles and clothing sector (ICSTD 2013). Cotton production was severely disrupted following the collapse of the Soviet Union and independence for regional states (Peyrouse 2009), with problems including financial constraints and absent or slow reforms.

9 COTTON PRODUCTION IN CENTRAL ASIA - CHALLENGES The slow process of liberalisation and l ack of investment (seed research onwards) are holding back potential development both in agriculture and textiles. Land ownership is reformed in some countries in the region but remains the property of the state in others. Issues include: Corruption Child or forced labour Debt bondage Outdated irrigation systems and resulting issues with salinity

10 WHY EVEN BOTHER? Heat-loving and relatively drought resistant crop National investment Can be beneficial in rotation system Relatively high value crop Access to international markets Opportunity to value-add (control more of the supply chain)

11 SNAPSHOT OF ORGANIC COTTON Organic is a multi-layered concept: Practice a way of farming Product a value-added product in the market (certified, tracked to farm, and labeled) Movement and Philosophy a way of living with respect for nature, including animals and people Innovation is not a choice! forced to find alternatives to agrochemicals (where tradition meets science) Model for delivering sustainable development

12 FOUR PRINCIPLES 1. Health 2. Ecology 3. Fairness 4. Care These four principles, properly balanced, will ensure a just future for all. Source: IFOAM International Federation of Organic Agriculture movement

13 ORGANIC AGRICULTURE Organic agriculture excludes the use of : Synthetic chemical fertilisers Synthetic chemical pesticides Plant growth regulators Livestock feed additives Genetically modified organisms

14 What are the benefits

15 ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS - NEW DATA Water Footprint WFN & C&A Foundation Grey water footprint of cotton is about five times larger than if an organic method of cultivation is used. A primary contributor to the bigger water footprint was the use of chemical pesticides on conventional farms. Life Cycle Assessment TE, PE International and PUMA Study showed that in general: The blue water consumption (WC) for the organic cotton data set accounts for about 98 m³ per FU; that is eighteen times lower compared to conventional data sets. PED of the primary organic data set was 72% lower compared to that of the Indian conventional data set. GWP of primary organic data set was 40% lower compared to the Indian conventional data set.

16 AND RE-FRAMING Re-framing: Natural Capital Accounting Ecosystem Serivices Knowledge-intensive Maximising the good (not just reducing the bad) Challenges: Scaling Business models Capturing the value-add Labour

17 A MECHANISM FOR IMPROVING WELL-BEING AND ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT Organic premium Health & Safety Clean water Farmer organisations Opportunities for women Crop & income diversity Processing & value adding Community-based spin-off opportunities

18 SEKEM EGYPT TRANSFORMING THE DESERT Sekem and Soil & More helping farmers learn how to improve or restore the structure and fertility of their soils. In 2007 and 2008 SEKEM and Soil & More began to operate two composting plants on an industrial scale, one near the original SEKEM farm grounds and one near Alexandria. On these two installations covering 30 acres of surface area the two companies produce about tonnes of purely organically manufactured compost every year. During the process of controlled microbial composting CO2 levels and core temperature are regularly measured. If necessary, the compost pile is turned and watered. In about 8 weeks, the biomass is transformed into a nutrient-rich compost ready to use, which supplies farms large and small all over Egypt with a substitute to chemicals.

19 CHETNA INDIA WATER SHED MANAGEMENT Chetna Organic Ltd is a wholly farmer owned cotton and food crop trading company that works with small and marginal organic farmers and focuses on the marketing of agricultural produce grown by its member farmers. Award for their Integrated Watershed Development supporting 3,000 hectares of rainfed land.

20 ESQUEL CHINA WATER EFFICIENCY & IMPROVED YIELDS Esquel s research team studied irrigation methods in order to conserve water, a scarce resource in Xinjiang. A dedicated team works with local farmers in Xinjiang on sustainable farming techniques. Esquel sponsored pilot studies at two cotton farms in Xinjiang to test the effectiveness of drip irrigation versus conventional open field watering. The yield from the drip irrigation field increased from 1,030 kg/acre in 2003 to 2,140kg/acre in 2011, while the yield in the conventional flood irrigation field was 1,200-1,400kg/acre. This success was recognized by the local governments and farmers alike, with the latter looking to apply this technology in their fields.

21 BIO KISHOVARZ - TAJIKISTAN ORGANIC COOP Created a cooperative in Feb 2012 with support from Helvetas. The biggest motivation for the farmers to form a co-operative was the opportunity to share problems and solve them together. Increase in land productivity, and an improvement in the quality. The average salary in the agricultural sector of Tajikistan is $32 USD per month. Organic farmers in 2011 were able to earn approximately $200 USD per month. The principles of Fairtrade are taken into consideration season sees the cooperative with: 1,500 farmers (700 women) and 1500 ha under organic cotton fibre (amongst other crops).

22 INNOVATION Industrial-scale composting Water harvesting Water efficiency & productivity AND Working collaboratively

23 THANK YOU! Liesl Truscott European & Farm Engagement Director