1. ANALITYCAL 2. SAFETY IN VIVO 3. IN VITRO TESTING 4. EFFICACY 5. PRODUCT TEST-SELF PERCEPTION EFFICACY 6. SENSORY ANALYSIS 7. QUALITATIVE RESEARCH

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3 1. ANALITYCAL 2. SAFETY IN VIVO 3. IN VITRO TESTING 4. EFFICACY 5. PRODUCT TEST-SELF PERCEPTION EFFICACY 6. SENSORY ANALYSIS 7. QUALITATIVE RESEARCH

4 1. ANALYTICAL. R&D SUPPORT SERVICES. RAW MATERIAL ANALYTICAL PROFILE. FINISHED PRODUCT ANALYTICAL PROFILE. MICROBIOLOGY

5 . R&D SUPPORT SERVICES: NEOTRON 40 years experience in a- nalytical chemistry and testing has been transferred to analyzing raw materials and formulation characterization in order to support regulatory compliance (EU REGU- LATION 1223/2009). The Analytical research department is committed to discovering new applications for the technologies together with the stateof-art methods.. RAW MATERIAL ANALYTICAL PROFILE Specific protocols have been set up for cosmetic ingredient evaluation in terms of method development, validation and testing to ensure raw materials meet specifications (pesticides, impurities, contaminants), to analyze the ingredients controlled by the legislation (preservatives, formaldehyde, fragrance, allergens, surfactants, actives, vitamins, residual solvents) and check common contaminants frequently found in cosmetics (heavy metals, 1,4 dioxane, NDELA (nitrosamine), phtalates).

6 . FINISHED PRODUCT ANALYTICAL PROFILE Analytical control strategy is based on formula evaluation which allows us to develop: ANALYTICAL PROFILE SAFETY LABORATORY TESTING (contaminants & controlled substances) MICROBIOLOGY QUALITY CONTROL SERVICES STABILITY TEST (shelf life, accelerated tests) PACKAGING TESTING Ingredients and final products are analyzed using the most advanced techniques (GC- MS-MS, LC-MS-MS, Q-TOF, HPLCs, HPLC with UV, ICP-MS, ICP-OES, HR-GC-MS, Real time PCR, MALDI-TOF).. MICROBIOLOGY Microbiological quality control is carried out according to updated official methods (ISO, EU/US pharmacopeia, CTFA, etc.) to ensure microbiological stability and quality: TOTAL AEROBIC MICROBIAL COUNT (TAMC) TOTAL YEAST AND MOLD COUNT (TYMC) DETECTION OF CANDIDA ALBICANS DETECTION OF ESCHERICHIA COLI DETECTION OF PSEUDOMONAS AERUGINOSA DETECTION OF STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS

7 2. SAFETY IN VIVO. PATCH TEST 48H. PATCH TEST 72H HYPOALLERGENICITY. TOLERABILITY TEST FOR THE PERIOCULAR AREA

8 . PATCH TEST 48H Patch testing is performed on a panel of healthy volunteers with normal or sensitive skin according to client needs. The occlusive application of the product is followed by a clinical evaluation 24 hours after Curatest F application (30 minutes after patch removal) and 48 hours after Curatest F application (24 hours after patch removal). The clinical assessment of skin irritation is made by a dermatologist. FOR WHICH CLAIM? DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED CLINICALLY TESTED NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN FOR SENSITIVE SKIN TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION Other possible methods are semi-occlusive patch test and Open patch test according to the nature of the sample tested.

9 . PATCH TEST 72H /HYPOALLERGENICITY The skin reactions will be read by a dermatologist 24, 48 and 72 hours after chambers' removal. FOR WHICH CLAIM? HYPOALLERGENIC: FORMULATED TO MINIMIZE THE RISK OF ALLERGIES DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED CLINICALLY TESTED NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN FOR SENSITIVE SKIN TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION. TOLERABILITY TEST FOR THE PERIOCULAR AREA This methods consist in a in-use tolerance study in the periocular area under medical supervision. The test is realized only if the examinated product turns to be not irritating after the patch testing performed on sensitive skin. A clinical evaluation of the periocular area of each volunteer will be done by dermatologist before and after the in-use test and its duration will dipend on product s type. FOR WHICH CLAIM? TESTED ON PERIOCULAR AREA HIGH TOLERABILITY EYE AREA PRODUCT DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED CLINICALLY TESTED NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN FOR SENSITIVE SKIN TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION

10 3. IN VITRO TESTING. SAFETY ASSESSMENT. EFFICACY ASSESSMENT

11 . VITRO TESTING In vitro testing offers an effective alternative method to animal testing and it is a valid approach to support cosmetic companies in meeting regulatory requirements (EU cosmetic regulation 1223/2009).. SAFETY ASSESSMENT In vitro safety tests are performed to confirm skin biocompatibility in personal and skin care product as well as their ingredients. The principal test methods are cell-based (skin equivalent) which allow to demonstrate the following effects: BIOCOMPATIBILITY CYTOTOXICITY SIMPLE CELL VIABILITY ASSAY (MTT AND/OR NRU) MEMBRANE INTEGRITY TEST. EFFICACY ASSESSMENT Efficacy in vitro testing allows the evaluation of the potential effect of end products and ingredients during the products development, as a support of marketing claims and as an integrated approach with in vivo testing for the following efficacy claim: REGENERATING ELASTICITY ANTI-CELLULITE ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ANTI-OXIDANT ANTI-OXIDATIVE STRESS AGAINST FREE RADICALS PROTECTION DNA

12 4. EFFICACY. IMAGE ANALYSIS. OCT (OPTICAL COHERENCE TOMOGRAPHY, SKINTELL). REFLECTANCE CONFOCAL MICROSCOPY (RCM). SPECIFIC INSTRUMENTAL STUDIES

13 NEOTRON provides specific protocol evaluation for both raw material and finished product in order to suggest or demonstrate marketing claim according to INCI expertise. Cosmetic legislation requires evidence support of all the efficacy claims and marketing communication therefore our protocols embrace a multidisciplinary study including: CLINICAL EVALUATION INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION SELF PERCEPTION EVALUATION Clinical and instrumental studies performed under dermatologist supervision: Clinical studies are performed in collaboration with the Dermatologic Clinic of the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia. The aim of these studies is to evaluate the effect of the finished product in vivo on a specific panel of volunteers selected according to dermatological characteristics in line with product type and the items to be evaluated.. IMAGE ANALYSIS Visia Complexion Analysis captures high quality, standardized facial images thanks to a cross-polarized and UV lighting used to record and measure surface and subsurface skin conditions providing the most complete data set available for skin assessment and analysis. FOR WHICH PARAMETERS? SPOTS SKIN COLOUR RED AREAS - TEXTURE WRINKLES PHOTO DAMAGE UV SPOTS PORE SIZE PORPHYRINS (evidence of bacteria)

14 . OCT (OPTICAL COHERENCE TOMOGRAPHY, SKINTELL) The OCT is a non-invasive imaging technology that allows the examination of the skin layers up to 2 mm in depth and provide 3 different viewing modes (slice, 3D and the unique en face) for visualizing skin morphology. FOR WHICH CLAIMS? LENITIVE EFFECT ANTI-AGING EFFECT ANTI-CELLULITE EFFICACY. REFLECTANCE CONFOCAL MICROSCOPY (RCM) Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a non-invasive technique for "in vivo" examination of the skin. In a confocal microscope, near-infrared light from a diode laser is focused on a microscopic skin target and it is possible to capture a two-dimensional gray scale image that allows the examination of the epidermis and superficial dermis. FOR WHICH CLAIMS? LENITIVE EFFECT ANTI-AGING EFFECT ANTI-CELLULITE EFFICACY WHITENING EFFICACY ANTI - SEBORRHEA HYDRATION EFFICACY The efficacy of the cosmetic product is supported when the analyzed skin parameters have significantly decreased at the end of the study compared to baseline.

15 . SPECIFIC INSTRUMENTAL STUDIES NEOTRON laboratories also provide efficacy tests for measuring skin-associated parameters to evaluate the effects of new ingredients or formulation at different steps of the product development and to give a scientific support to the finished product s efficacy. Our portfolio includes the following tests: HYDRATION: it is an in-use study or a short term study performed to evaluate the skin surface hydration value at stratum corneum level (MoistureMeter SC Delfin) or more in depth to assess the water presents in biological tissues (MoistureMeter D Delfin). With these evaluations we are able to support claims such as: MOISTURIZING, HYDRATING FOR DRY SKIN LENITIVE /BARRIER EFFECT: According to product s type and efficacy, measurements of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and redness are taken in order to evaluate lenitive or barrier effect of the product after skin exposure to a water solution of sodium lauryl sulphate. These measurements are made respectively with Moisture Meter SC Delfin, Tewameter and Colorimeter (Courage & Khazaha) and it is possible to support the following claims: LENITIVE PROTECTS SKIN BARRIER RESTORES AND REPAIRS SKIN BARRIER REPAIRING RESTORING FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

16 SEBOMETRY: Sebumeter (Courage & Khazaha) determines the sebum level of the skin surface and allows to support claims such as: SKIN SEBUM-NORMALIZING PRODUCT FOR OILY SKIN SKIN ELASTICITY: ElastiMeter (Delfin) helps to show the efficacy of different kinds of skin care products in order to support claims like: ELASTICIZING TONIFYING FIRMING NOURISHING WHITENING: The efficacy of skin pigmentation treatment is evaluated by using the Mexameter (Courage & Khazaka) which measures the melanin value that is the component mainly responsible of the skin colour and from the comparison of the data obtained before and after the treatment it is possible to support these claims: LIGHTENER EFFECT BRIGHTENING WHITENING REDUCES DARK SPOT BRIGHTENING /LIGHTENING EFFECT: The measurement performed with Glossymeter is useful in the efficacy testing of skin care and decorative cosmetics (lipsticks, make-up, etc.) in order to support this marketing claims: LIGHTENER EFFECT BRIGHTENING, GLOSSY, SHINY EFFECT

17 5. PRODUCT TEST SELF PERCEPTION EFFICACY. CONSUMER ANALYSIS

18 NEOTRON is accredited by ACCREDIA on product test according to AFNOR XP V Sensory analysis methodology- General guidance for conducting hedonic tests with consumers in a controlled area. Studies will be performed according to the objectives that clients want to achieve, for example: TO ESTIMATE SELF-PERCEPTION EFFICACY ABOUT POTENTIAL EFFECTS RELATED TO THE EXAMINATED PRODUCT TO CARRY OUT THE POSITIONING OF THE EXAMINATED PRODUCTS IN TERMS OF OVERALL LIKING EXPRESSED IDENTIFY STRENGTH/WEAKNESS POINTS OF THE PRODUCT AND UNDERSTAND HOW TO IMPROVE THEM TO POINT OUT POSSIBLE PREFERENCES SEGMENTATIONS TO ESTIMATE PROPENSITY TO EVALUATE THE BRAND EFFECT ON SENSORY PROPERTIES. CONSUMER ANALYSIS TARGET The panel consists of a group of consumers or potential customers selected on the basis of the objectives that the client want to achieve, so the selection criteria could be: DERMATOLOGIC AND TRICHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF PRODUCT TO BE EVALUATED THE FREQUENCY OF PURCHASE OF THE PRODUCT TO BE TESTED THE PURCHASE CHANNEL PANEL CONSUMER HABITS, ETC.

19 It is necessary that the sample is representative of the population and therefore constituted by a sufficiently high number of consumers so as to represent it. NEOTRON realizes the selection and recruitment of the target directly from our internal database and through agencies expert in recruitment in Europe and other Countries. SAMPLES The samples to be tested may be supplied directly by the Neotron client or purchased on the market in Italy and or in selected Countries. LOCATIONS FOR CONSUMER TESTS TEST CENTER: NEOTRON has the main test center located in Modena and collaborates with fieldwork agencies in Italy, EU and others Countries. Tests performed in test center allow a control and standardization of the samples presentation and application in order to guarantee a controlled sensory evaluation. HOME TEST: In home test, the product is tested by consumer at home therefore the evaluation of the products is made in a daily context and according to the consumer habits. TEST IN STORE /SHOP/SUPERMARKET: NEOTRON organizes tests in stores with the purpose to analyse the consumer behavior in front of the shelf s point of sale.

20 STATISTICAL ANALYSIS The collected data from the fieldwork are processed and elaborated by NEOTRON using a dedicated software (Sen&Ca) and interpreted by skilled staff. Different methods are applied according to the type of information intended to emphasize. The main statistical tests are: ONE-WAY ANOVA TWO-WAY ANOVA LSD TEST (Least Significant Difference Test) SLOPE ANALYSIS MULTIVARIATE STATISTICAL ANALYSIS: PCA, PLS, CLUSTER ANALYSIS, DISCRIMINANT ANALYSIS, MULTIPLE LINEAR REGRESSION, ETC.

21 6. SENSORY ANALYSIS. DISCRIMINATIVE STUDY. DESCRIPTIVE TEST /QUANTITATIVE DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSIS (QDA). SHELF LIFE STUDIES

22 The sensory analysis is performed by trained assessors that objectively identify the differences between products through the SHEF LIFE STUDY. DISCRIMINATIVE STUDY (Triangular test, A non A test, etc) NEOTRON is accredited by ACCREDIA on triangular test according to ISO 4120:2004 Sensory analysis methodology-triangle test. This test allows to point out possible sensory differences between samples of two products but with no identification of the different nature. When it is useful to use TRIANGLE TEST METHOD MONITORING OF MONITORING THE SENSORY PERFORMANCE OF EVALUATE THE RAW TO COMPARE SENSORY PROFILES BETWEEN SIMILAR PRODUCTS.. DESCRIPTIVE TEST stablishing a sensory profile. A group of trained assessors is able to evaluate the characterizing attributes of a product in an objective and repeatable way. This test allows to point out possible differences between two or more samples and to identify the nature and the intensity of these diversities. When it is useful to use QDA METHOD DEFINE A SENSORY PROFILE IN ORDER TO CONTROL PRODUCTIONS MONITORING OF DEVELOPMENT OF NEW PRODUCT OR TO COMPARE SENSORY PROPERTIES OF DIFFERENT FORMULATION; OPTIMIZATION OF THE PRODUCT IN TERMS OF INGREDIENTS AND TECHNOLOGY AND EVALUATION OF THE SENSORY EFFECT OF FORMULATION CHANGES; TO REDUCE FORMULATION COST WITHOUT ALTERING THE PERCEPTION OF THE PRODUCTS.. SHELF LIFE STUDIES For each item shelf-life studies give the possibility to check the qualitative decay in time. Assessors compare the fresh product with the product under ageing. Data are processed through Weibull s model which give the possibility to identify the PSF that means the probability that the product under ageing conditions is perceived as different (therefore worse) than the fresh one. (Quantitative Descriptive Analysis (QDA) NEOTRON is accredited by ACCREDIA on quantitative descriptive analysis according to ISO 13299:2003 Sensory analysis -- Methodology -- General guidance for e-

23 CREAM SAMPLE A SAMPLE B COLOUR SILKY PICK UP SOFTNESS TEXTUR E ABSORPTION SPREADABILITY GREASINESS NEOTRON Spa divisione Sen&CA Analisi Sensoriale e Indagini di Mercato

24 7. QUALITATIVE RESEARCH Qualitative research is designed to reach an in-depth understanding about the motivations of consumer s attitude towards a product, a packaging or advertising and to know the deep needs leading to consumer decisions and choice of a brand instead of its competitors. Qualitative research is also used to help to develop ideas for advertising, by getting information directly from consumer motivations and opinions and to renew the image of a brand or launch a new product and strengthen emotional and functional values.

25 Qualitative methods in the field of marketing research include: FOCUS GROUP: It is focused on a specific area of interest that allows participants to discuss the topic in detail and to produce a large amount of data in a short time. The partecipant s recruitment is based on the main important parameters related to the project aim; usually they share social and cultural experiences such as age, usership, geographic background and ethnicity. The moderator introduces the topic and assists the participants to discuss it, and usually is a person specialized in research on the type of product and has an expertise in the management IN-DEPTH INTERVIEWS /INTERVIEWS WITH OPINION LEADER: is a qualitative technique of research through intensive individual interviews with a small number of respondents to exploring their perspectives on a particular idea, product, or situation. Respondents could be either consumer of specific product or an opinion leader which have a specific FACE TO FACE INTERVIEWS: there is a recruitment of people to interview representative of the target audience (eg. women responsible of the purchasing, u- sers of the examinated product). The number of volunteers is a function of co- INTERVIEWS IN FRONT OF A SHELF /DISPLAY REPRODUCING THE REAL O- NE IN STORE: Respondents are observed while purchasing (at the point of sale) the product. The observation is supplemented with interviews steps to deepen the observations. This methodology can also be applied through the use of online platforms: instead of directly observing, the interviewer is asked to document the consumer behavior through videos, photos, blogs, etc. then will follow the loading on the platform.

26 COSMETIC NEOTRON SPA Stradello Aggazzotti, Modena Italy Ph Fax For more information please contact us Info

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