LIPOTEC BIOTECHNOLOGY FOR SKIN CARE. Evalar, August 2013

Transcription

1 LIPOTEC BIOTECHNOLOGY FOR SKIN CARE Evalar, August 2013

2 BIOTECHNOLOGY CONCEPT Biotechnology uses living organisms to develop concrete compounds and products since ancient times: cheese, yogurt, beer, bread, recombinant insulin... Multiple origins and models can be used as starting point: bacteria, yeast, specific compounds... No alteration of the natural environment of the sample is needed.

3 DISCOVERY PROCESS Culture collection evaluation Extract/pure molecule screening Product characterization and cosmetic development Bioprocess development and validation Small volumes - Optimal culture media are established Large scale bioreactors process scale up Lab-scale bioreactors process parameters are established (stirring, ph, po 2 )

4 BENEFITS OF BIOINTEC MARINE TECHNOLOGY Preservation of the environment: no harvesting nor extracting from nature. sustainable production of active ingredients. Non-genetically modified organisms are used. The process can be controlled and reproduced, contrary to what happens in nature: Adequate growth of the microorganisms and maximal productivity Well-defined molecules and more precisely Greater reproducibility Control of key parameters Absence of pollutants or undesired materials (organics, metals, iodine,...)

5 A SUSTAINABLE SOURCE Taking into account that: o Natural sources and environments need to be sustainably treated as they can be easily disturbed sometimes for example. o The production of commercial ingredients demands specific conditions as well as adequate facilities. Sustainability is one of the main advantages of Biotechnology, which obtains functional compounds without wasting natural resources

6 BIOTECHNOLOGY AND COSMETICS NOWADAYS Biotechnology perfectly fits the needs of the cosmetic industry. Biotechnological ingredients offer versatility in brand positioning and trends; both hightech cosmeceutical and natural/organic brands use them. New launches already include yeasts and bacterial derivatives, 78% being in the face and neck care subcategory. In skin care, biotechnology products have an estimated compound annual growth rate of 4.5% from 2010 to Increase of biotech claims in skin care BIOTECHNOLOGY CLAIMS IN SKIN CARE *Estimated growth Source: Mintel GNPD, 2012 & SPC, October 2011

7 SOURCES OF DIVERSITY Our planet offers multiple and different environments where to find new useful compounds: o Terrestrial areas o Marine habitats o Fresh water zones o...

8 MARINE ORIGIN Marine environments are a valuable source of biodiversity. 75% of our planet is covered by water. 95% of the biosphere is found in marine environments. Different conditions and habitats depending on water depth, salinity, ph, temperature, oxygen, light, nutrients, currents and tides presence, among other influencing factors. The sea offers exciting opportunities for cosmetic innovation

9 SPECIAL MARINE SOURCE DUE TO ENVIRONMENT Under extreme conditions and stress, algae, bacteria and fungi develop special mechanisms to raise their own survival and/or help their colonies. o Areas being explored worldwide by Lipotec, analysing their water and possible interesting compounds, according to their climate and local environmental conditions. These surviving techniques include the production and secretion of bioactive compounds with a wide range of functions and properties. Novel cosmetic ingredients can be found analysing such survival compounds, which include excreted Extracellular Polymeric Substances (ECPSs)

10 BIOINTEC MARINE BIOTECHNOLOGY PORTFOLIO

11 ECPSs FROM GLACIERED COLD Extremophiles are organisms that survive in extreme conditions, like the Antarctica with its extremely low temperatures, by optimising their metabolic processes and secreting functional ECPSs. A glycoprotein from an Antarctic extremophile was found to be cryoprotective. In the skin, such property was translated into protection from harsh environments and dryness, stimulation of cellular cohesion, restructuration and skin regeneration. ANTARCTICINE marine ingredient is a cosmetic active with anti-aging and repairing effects

12 ANTARCTICINE MARINE INGREDIENT EFFICACY ON SKIN ROUGHNESS 10 volunteers applied a cream* with 5% ANTARCTICINE marine ingredient around the eyes, twice daily, 30 days. The silicon imprints of the treated areas were obtained before and after the 30 days of treatment. then, they were analysed by confocal microscopy. (* Test performed with a customer s formulation) After 30 days of treatment with the cream containing the marine ingredient the skin imprints presented an average roughness reduction of 44.5%. ANTARCTICINE marine ingredient presents an excellent wrinkle reduction activity 0 days 30 days

13 EPSs FROM INTERTIDAL AREAS DRYNESS Intertidal shores are dynamic systems exposed to harsh factors: wave action, thermal and desiccation stress, nutrient depletion, UV exposure... thus, their inhabitants produce ECPSs to raise survival. A bacterial Exopolysaccharide (EPS) found in these areas had positive effects on dehydration protection. As a skin care benfit, it showed to retain water due to its Hyaluronic Acid (HA) similar structure, with capacity to highly keep water molecules. HYADISINE marine ingredient is a new compound to increase skin hydration and reduce wrinkles in the short and long term

14 HYADISINE MARINE INGREDIENT EFFICACY ON SKIN ROUGHNESS AND HYDRATION hyadisine marine ingredient solution 20 female volunteers applied a cream containing 10% HYADISINE marine ingredient solution on half-face and a placebo cream on the other half, twice a day, 20 days. Measures were taken at the beginning, after 2 and 8 h, and at the end of the treatment. 20 female volunteers applied a cream containing 1% HYADISINE marine ingredient solution on half-face and a placebo cream on the other half, twice daily, 20 days. hyadisine marine ingredient solution Skin replicas were taken at the beginning, after 2 and 8 h, and at the end of the treatment. HYADISINE marine ingredient provides an immediate and longlasting hydrating effect and reduces skin roughness as well

15 EPSs FROM AREAS WITH EXTREME GRADIENTS The differentiated conditions from marine habitats (high salinity, tides, waves, gradients of light, temperature and oxygen) and fresh water (lower salinity and gradients) come together in these areas, making life harder. An EPS from an alga surface inhabiting an estuary interacts with cell receptors to produce volume and support enhancers. As a skin care benefit, it induces the synthesis of HA, which is essential for skin and less available when aging. HYANIFY marine ingredient is an innovative active to replenish wrinkles and rejuvenate the aspect of the skin

16 HYANIFY MARINE INGREDIENT EFFICACY ON THE NASOGENIAN FOLD VOLUME RECOVERY 19 volunteers (44-56 years) with nasolabial fold of moderate intensity applied a cream with 1% HYANIFY marine ingredient solution, twice daily on the face (insisting on the nasogenian fold). Pictures were taken and skin topography was evaluated before the first application and after 14 and 28 days by FOITS. After 14 days, it diminished the volume, area and circumference of the nasogenian fold by 27.0%, 17.2% and 15.3%, as well as the wrinkle depth by almost 20% after 28 days. HYANIFY marine ingredient reduces the nasogenian fold after 14 days 0 days 28 days

17 LIFE IN EXTREME HABITATS In the Antarctica, nutrients are scarce, darkness and sub-zero temperatures are usual and surface freezing and defrosting is biannual. Psychrotrophs are extremophile microorganisms perfectly adapted to such environmental disadvantages, living in sea ice and its underlying seawater. Intertidal shores are a survival challenge due to its constant exposure to waves and drastic temperatures, UV rays and nutrients changes. Like in the Antarctica, Pseudoalteromonas genus (bacteria) is frequently found here, surviving due to the development of specific ECPSs. Glycoproteins and EPSs coming from extreme environments offer multiple potential benefits for the skin

18 SURVIVAL ECPSs: GLYCOPROTEINS AND EPSs Glycoproteins Polypeptides covalently bound to oligosaccharide chains. Participate in many processes: cell-to-cell communication stress recovery cell-substrate and cell-to-cell unions cryoprotection Exopolysaccharides Glucidic polymers of diverse composition. Protect from salinity, temperatures and pressure by influencing: hydration and nutrition cell recognition, proliferation and migration interaction with cell receptors GPs functionalities translate into skin protection and structural benefits, like increased tonicity and firmness HA-similar EPSs raise skin water levels, consequently improving its hydration and volume loss

19 FAST-APPEARING AGING SIGNS Lips and their closest skin are one of the most attractive facial zones, being a special aging target. Perioral wrinkles appear quickly when getting older. The vertical lines that etch from the upper lip to the nose, known as lipstick or smoker lines. Such lines are mainly associated with aging, although other factors exacerbate their appearance (stress, environment, smoking, diet, facial muscles movement...) Compounds capable of reverting the aging alterations (loss of elasticity, firmness and volume), would minimise lipstick lines and rejuvenate facial look

20 SEACODE MARINE INGREDIENT EFFICACY ON LIPSTICK LINES A group of 10 female volunteers (35-50 years old) applied a cream with 2% SEACODE marine ingredient on the facial skin above the upper lip, twice daily, 4 weeks. Real images were taken with a digital camera. Initial time 1 week 4 weeks Real images proved that SEACODE marine ingredient evidently ameliorated lipstick lines, decreasing the skin roughness by 16.5% and 25.1% after 1 and 4 weeks respectively

21 THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ATTENTION Disclaimer: While the claims and supporting data provided in this publication are believed to be reliable and they are presented free and for guidance only, there are no warranties of any kind made as to its accuracy, suitability for particular applications, how the product(s) will perform in combination with other substance or in the user s process or the results obtained. All expressed and implied warranties are disclaimed. Lipotec MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. The recipient is solely responsible for ensuring that products marketed to consumers comply with all relevant laws and regulations and assumes all risk and liability of any use or handling of any materials. Recipient of this publication agrees to indemnify and hold harmless each entity of the LIPOTEC organization for any and all actions arising from recipient s use of any claims or information in this publication, including, but not limited to, use in advertising and finished product label claims, and not present this publication as evidence of finished product claim substantiation to any regulatory authority. Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as an inducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner The Lubrizol Corporation. All Rights Reserved.