VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations

Transcription

1 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations INTRODUCTION Everyone recognizes that your Home needs a sound roof to protect you and your possessions from the exterior elements, with its maintenance representing a big portion of the investment in your home. There are a number of things to consider when the time comes to make the decision to just repair or to completely replace the roof on your Villa. Therefore, the Roof Committee, appointed by the VGG Board of Directors, has prepared the following information as a supplement to the VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations, to hopefully aid our Villa owners in becoming more knowledgeable when the time comes to repair their roof or purchase what really is a new roofing system. CONTENTS Page A) Introduction to Common Roofing Terms 2 B) Initial Construction and Current Condition of The Villas Roofs 3 C) Failures Many Villa Owners Have Experienced With Their Roofs in the Last Several Years 4 D) What Can and Cannot Be Determined From an Inspection: 4 E) Making the Decision Whether to Repair or to Replace. 5 F) Choosing the Materials for a Replacement Roofing System 6 G) Major Components of a Tile Roof, and Decisions Required in the Selection of These Items 6 H) Suggested Guidelines to Follow When Choosing a Contractor 10 I) Items That Should Be Covered in a Written Contract with a Roofer 12 J) Items to be Aware of When Re-Roofing 12 Page 1 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

2 A) Introduction to Common Roofing Terms Attic - The open space between the underside of the roof sheathing (deck plywood) and the upper side of the insulation lying on top of the ceilings of a home s living space. Drip Edge - An L-shaped strip (usually painted metal) installed along roof edges to allow water to run off and drip clear of the deck, eaves, and siding. Eave - The projecting overhang at the lower edge of a sloped roof. Eave Closure (Riser) - A trim piece that covers the gap between the roof deck and the lowest row of tiles. Fascia - Vertical board (cover) at the bottom edge of the roof that encloses the ends of the rafters or trusses. Flashing - Materials used to waterproof the intersections on, or projections through a roofing system (vents, pipes, skylights). Hip - The inclined external edge formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. The hips run from the ridge to the corner of the building at the eaves. Hip Roof - A shape of roof that has several intersecting, sloping planes (a pyramid.) Our Villas have Hip Roofs. Rafter - Sloping boards extending from the eave to the ridge of a roof, designed to support the roofing material. Ridge - The uppermost horizontal edge that is formed by two intersecting sloping roof surfaces. Sheathing (Decking) - The plywood sheets that are fastened to the rafters and trusses that cover a home. Slope (Incline) - A measurement of the steepness of a roof. The rise of a roof, measured in inches, for each 12 inches of horizontal run. The slope of our roofs is 5 in 12. Soffit - Horizontal panels installed at the underside of eaves. They protect the opening under the eaves. Square - The common measurement for roof area. One square of roofing is 100 square feet (10 x 10 ). Tile Profile - The overall shape of a roof tile. There are three cross-sections that are in general use today: A) Flat, B) Mid-Profile (Double Roll), and C) High-Profile (S-Shaped). Truss - The structural engineering components that supplement rafters, designed to support the weight of the roofing. Note: If cut, damaged, or deteriorated, its strength will be compromised. Underlayment - The layer of material directly under the tiles which protects against water entering the home. Valley - The angle formed at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces. Valley Metal - A metal tray fixed in a valley to direct water off the roof. Vent (Off Ridge) - Openings designed to convey water vapor and hot air from inside an attic to the atmosphere, at or near the highest roof ridges, thereby reducing the temperature under the roof decking. Vent (Soffit) - Slotted or perforated soffit panels designed to ventilate the attic space, also referred to as edge venting. Fresh air enters here and replaces the hot air that exits at the off-ridge vents. Page 2 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

3 B) Initial Construction and Current Condition of The Villas Roofs Our Villas were built between 1994 and 1999, presently making them 16 to 21 years old. The roofs were constructed based on the building practices used in that time period. The widespread and severe damage caused by Hurricane Andrew in 1992 caused the state to begin making major changes to the Florida Building Codes. As further study of hurricane damage has been undertaken, and better roof building technology has been developed and tested since that time, those codes have continued to be updated, with the latest adoption coming in Unfortunately, the vast majority of these changes were not implemented before our Villa roofs were built beginning in Therefore the roofs do not qualify for certain Property Insurance Premium Discounts. These deficiencies include a lack of adequate securement of the tiles, and inadequate attachment of the deck plywood, in both nail size and spacing, that are required to receive those discounts on annual Property Insurance premiums. The roof construction consists of plain concrete, unsealed tiles. The majority of our Villas have the overlapping high S-shaped tiles. (Sixteen of the Villas have mid-profile tiles) As each year goes by, it is becoming more and more difficult to find this type of tile for replacements. Even if they can be found, they will be more expensive and may not be the color to match. The tile attachment (securement) consists of tiles being secured with a paddy of mortar. Many of the tiles have become loose over the years, and are now just overlapping an adjacent tile. Now, basically, the only thing holding them down is their own weight. Each of the bottom (or lower) row of tiles is supported by mortar, which also acts as the closure at the eaves (a bird stop). A single hole (approximately ½ in diameter) was punched through each segment with a rod. Unfortunately this hole is positioned above the deck and drip edge, which allows moisture to collect all along this edge, not being able to escape. This will eventually result in deterioration of the roof decking and fascia boards in this area, as you or your neighbors may have already learned. Many people don t recognize that the main purpose of the tiles is decoration (eye appeal), to weight the roof down to resist high wind conditions, and to protect the underlayment from ultraviolet rays. While the tiles do provide a major run off plane for water, they are not designed to provide a sealed layer, and the main protection from water intrusion is really the underlayment, which cannot be seen unless tiles are removed. The underlayment used in the construction of our Villa roofs was applied with what is described as a Hot Mopping process, with the top layer being a 90 pound felt with granules, which can best be described as asphalt rolled roofing, adhered to the thinner bottom layer with hot tar applied during installation. This underlayment continues to deteriorate with age, and that deterioration is accelerated when areas are left exposed to direct sunlight (UV), as under areas of cracked or missing tiles. There is further deterioration when the unsealed tiles, and of course the underlayment, are power washed with severe chemicals (bleach or chlorine). Note: Prior to 2013 our Villa roofs were primarily power washed, using water with bleach and/or chlorine added applied under high pressures. Another cause of our underlayment deterioration is that none of the current roofs have off-ridge ventilation, which would help release heat and condensation from the attic space beneath the roof. Excess heat can damage roofing materials as well as the wooden truss structure supporting the roof. Presently the only attic ventilation provided is through the soffits at the lower perimeter, many of which were blocked when additional attic insulation was installed, or from an accumulation of dirt and mold over the years. Also, remember, heat rises! Another advantage of having off-ridge ventilation is the energy savings realized by having an attic temperature reduced by twenty degrees or more. For many years the shingle roofing industry has required ridge ventilation, or the material manufacturers would not honor their limited warranties. Upon searching the current State of Florida and local building codes, we can find many provisions that suggest ventilation be provided in the upper areas of a tile roof to create circulation and reduce the build-up of high temperatures and moisture in the attic space. Unfortunately they don t really define or require the amount of net free air the ventilation should provide. Page 3 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

4 Many property insurance companies in Florida are presently requiring Certification of a Roof s Condition when the roof reaches a certain age. When a roof reaches that certain age, a Florida-licensed building inspector, registered architect, or licensed engineer must certify that the roof has a certain minimum life remaining, or the insurance company will not issue insurance on the home. There is also a point where, once a roof reaches a certain age, they will not insure the home at all. We can be certain that these parameters will be continually reviewed as insurance companies experience damage claims in the future. While most of the current emphasis has been based on shingled roofs, we feel it is only a matter of time before tile roofs will be included in this requirement. C) Failures Many Villa Owners Have Experienced With Their Roofs in the Last Several Years Broken or cracked tiles are usually caused by workers carelessly walking across a roof during power washing, or for other maintenance requirements. This could also be caused by expansion and contraction, or from the rare errant golf ball. A few owners have had to repair and/or replace, at their own expense, from several cracked tiles to hundreds of broken tiles resulting from such damage. Some ridge or hip cap tiles have become loose from their mortar paddy, which could possibly result in them being blown off during a storm, causing damage to surrounding areas. Some owners have had this condition inspected and repaired, while others are not even aware of the situation. Many owners have found deterioration of plywood substrate and fascia boards around the perimeter of their roofs, requiring replacement. Deterioration of flashing and underlayment has been found to have caused many leaks into the interior of their homes. There could be many other situations which are unknown because the leakage hasn t made its way to the interior surfaces of our homes. Many owners started to experience interior leaks when their Villa reached approximately 12 to 15 years of age. Some owners have experienced multiple areas of leaks. Repairs for those leaks have resulted in costs of anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars each. Some people are under the impression that a tile roof will last forever! Those of us who have experienced leaks or rotted fascia will tell you that this is not true. From what we have seen, some tile roof systems may last 25 to 30 years, while others, depending on the number and extent of leaks, could need replacement much earlier. A point of information: The homes in Mahogany Run South, that run along the east side of the ninth hole of the golf course, were built between 1989 and This makes those roofs 20 to 25 years of age. In the last 5 years, well over half of them have been re-roofed. Also, last winter, a homeowner in Callaway Greens had their roof replaced, and that community was built later than our Villas. D) What Can and Cannot Be Determined From an Inspection Inspecting for leaks: Inside the house: Look for cracked paint, discolored plaster board, or peeling wallpaper, as signs of possible damage to roof areas. Ceiling stains could also come from A/C ducts that sweat drops of water from condensation in a hot attic. Inside the attic: Look for signs of leaks or cracks & holes where you can see light coming in. This is best done on a sunny day. Inspect for stains on the underside of the roof decking, on rafters or trusses, (especially where the roof changes shape or slope), on the insulation, and around all roof penetrations for exhaust vents, skylights, and stacks. Check for rusting nails. All such things could show stains or sources of leaks. It could be an old leak, where the amount of water was minimal, or a sign of a leak just starting. Page 4 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

5 Outside the house: From the ground, or from a ladder at the edge of your roof, look for cracked, broken, or loose tiles, especially along the ridges and eaves, which indicate tiles that are likely to come off during a wind storm. Check for deteriorated fascia boards. If you are not able to make these inspections yourself, contact a reputable licensed roofing inspector, roofing contractor, or home inspector to evaluate your roof for you. You should check with neighbors and friends for referrals, and also check with the Better Business Bureau 1. It is important to note that even the most experienced inspector can only base his inspection on what he can see that day. He could find nothing of concern today, but a leak could develop with the next rain storm! The problem could be a tear or crack in the underlayment, which is between the tile and the roof s plywood decking. The only way anyone can see such things is to tear up the tiles and valley metals! E) Making the Decision Whether to Repair or to Replace Will a roof repair due to a leak give you several more years of life? Some people and/or contractors will say you are never wrong to put a new roof on your home. You should know the age of your roof, and it would be nice to know the realistic expected life remaining in your roof. If you are within the first half of the expected life of your roof, and have not experienced previous leak problems, then you most likely do not need to replace it. If you have experienced several leaks in various areas around the roof, then it should be determined why it is failing, and what the outlook is, before you make a decision to repair or replace the roof when you have the next leak. You should take a good look to see what your roof really looks like from the street, and all around from ground level. Do you notice dips in the roofing, shifted, cracked or missing tiles, areas that have obviously been previously repaired, rotting (or tannin staining), or rotted fascia boards? All of these could mean there are several other locations where you have some leaking that may not have reached the inside of your home yet. They may be leaking into the interior walls, where the staining & mold will take a few more years to show. The longer this type of deterioration is allowed to continue, the more expensive it will be to repair. If you can see such things, when the time comes that you want to sell, don t think that a prospective buyer (or their inspector) won t see the same. This results in a bad impression, with a prospective buyer either walking away or reducing their offer. At what cost of repairing a series of leaks does someone come to realize that they are only wasting money? Is that point reached at 1, 2, 3, or more leaks? This is a question that can only be answered by owners themselves. When (not if) the next bad storm comes through our area, the cost of all repairs and replacements will certainly increase. The need for competent roofing contractors will almost certainly exceed the demand, and the scarcity of materials will only increase the cost of a roof replacement. One would expect that with a re-roofing, based on the latest technology, the chances of minimizing or eliminating any damage to your roof from the next big storm would be significantly reduced. Re-roofing a Villa is basically adding a new roofing system, which includes the latest procedures and technology, developed after studying the damage caused by hurricanes hitting Florida over the last 2 to 3 decades. As each year goes by it will become more expensive and difficult to find acceptable replacement tiles for the repair of your existing roof. Page 5 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

6 The longer you wait, the more you will lose property insurance premium discounts because your current roof doesn t meet the latest standards, and risk reaching the point of no longer being able to insure your home because the property insurers consider your roof to have exceeded its service life expectancy. With a properly vented attic, you should also expect the cost for your air conditioning to be reduced. We all should recognize that a re-roofing is a big investment in the maintenance of our homes. How long the existing tile roof will last, no one really knows for certain. F) Choosing the Materials for a Replacement Roofing System First: There are State of Florida and Lee County building codes that must be followed. Second: Since the Villas at Gateway Greens is an HOA, governed by a set of Documents, there are certain standards that must be adhered to. These are rules which must be followed to ensure uniformity within our community, and which will protect our property values. In the case of the Roof System, a series of Rules and Recommendations have been developed by the VGG Roof committee and approved by the VGG Board of Directors for use by our owners. The rules cover items that are visible, and the recommendations cover a range of suggestions for the various major components to aid our owners in their selection of these items. Third: We all recognize that a re-roofing requires much research by each owner, because it involves the expense of adding a new roofing system to your home. This involves the selection of materials, based on the latest technology, that meet the latest codes and regulations, which should have been verified by a third party testing facility, and approved by the proper building authorities determining that they meet these requirements. While some details are mandatory, required by both state & local building codes, others are left to each owner s choice. However it must be remembered in our community that this involves two or four owners who will have to come to agreement on the choices for each of their common roofs. Like everything else, we would like to make our own decision as to what to buy, because there are many variations of each component being offered. They can be made of different materials, all with variations in quality but some just meeting the minimum requirements and having a shorter life expectancy. These two or four owners who share a roof will be required to agree on the selection of several critical components based on their own means and desires. G) Major Components of a Tile Roof, and Decisions Required in Selecting Them Tile Type and its Profile: The most common materials are clay and concrete. Also available are tiles made from metal and recycled plastic. Metal and clay tiles are significantly more expensive. Today, tiles come in three basic profiles. Each profile is available in a variety of colors and with various coatings. Basically the profiles can be categorized as: A) Flat, B) Mid-Profile (Double Roll), and C) High- Profile (S-Shaped). The tiles of all three profiles are basically overlapping, and some are interlocking. The interlocking tiles are the flat and mid-profile, and are manufactured with edge profiles that allow them to fit together to help keep the tiles aligned during installation, which should reduce the amount of water intrusion during a rain storm. A mid-profile (double roll) type of tile has been selected as the standard for re-roofing our Villas. Tile Installation: Florida Codes vary from county to county, with Broward and Miami-Dade counties being the most stringent. The major thrust of the roofing sections of the building code is to ensure that the installation method used adequately protects the home from moisture and water intrusion, and holds the tiles securely in place. Concrete tiles, properly installed to today s codes, can resist tear-off from wind velocities of over 125 mph. Page 6 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

7 Some areas of Florida require that they resist even higher wind velocities, and therefore call for more extensive attachment. According to current building codes, tile roofing should be installed based on the following factors: Local climate zone, including the distance from a major body of water. Roof shape Underlayment system Type of tile being installed (concrete / metal / plastic) Tile may typically be attached with mechanical fasteners (nails or screws) or with a combination of a special polyurethane foam adhesive plus either nails or screws. This foam adhesive can be either a one-part or a two-part system. The one-part foam is contained in portable, self-contained dispensing kits (cylinders) that are pre-calibrated at the factory and can easily be brought right up on the roof by the worker applying it. The two-part system is brought to the job site in large separate containers, and calibrated at the site for the current weather conditions. The two components are then mixed under pressure through hoses that extend up to the roof where the worker applies the material directly to the surface of the underlayment. Perimeter tiles must be fastened with two mechanical fasteners per tile, for the lower two rows. The remainder of the tiles (the field tiles) may be either mechanically fastened or adhered with a mid-sized paddy of foam. Where mechanical fasteners are used they must be corrosion resistant, of a minimum size head and length to penetrate the decking. Screws are typically preferred over nails, based on their interaction with the underlayment material, since it is said that they create a better seal. The decision to select between an entirely mechanically fastened tile roof and one that is attached by a combination of fasteners and foam adhesive presents many factors for consideration and really comes down to an individual owner s choice. While some contractors will offer to use either screws or foam on the field tiles, certain contractors may prefer to use only mechanical fasteners, because they have used that attachment system for many years and/or feel more comfortable based on the experience of their work force. Some might say that using screws is less expensive than using foam, but, since that expense is such a minor portion of a roofing job, the real issue is what their total price for the job is. Other contractors will point out that, with the penetration of each screw, there is a leak just waiting to happen. When you consider that there would be a few thousand of these penetrations in a Villa roof, maybe this should be taken seriously. Others might say that it takes experienced operators to correctly apply the foam products. Another factor to consider in your evaluation is that a foam-attached tile is adhered in place, while a screw-fastened tile is attached like a lever when acted upon by the force of the wind on the other end of the tile. The best way to describe this is it is just like a claw hammer trying to remove a bent nail. Over time the fastener can enlarge the hole in the roof deck, weakening the attachment, and giving water a way to enter your attic. (No one said the decisions would be easy!) Underlayment: Since the tile can only be considered as somewhat water resistant, the underlayment is really the main line of defense against water and moisture intrusion into your home. Some factors to consider are: Underlayment comes in many different thicknesses, types, qualities and combinations of materials. Each is composed to provide different levels of protection. Some are specifically designed for application with shingles. Some are only for use in northern climates. Others are only designed to be used when screws (or nails) are used for the attachment of tiles. Still others are designed to be used when the tile attachment is a combination of fasteners and a foam adhesive. Page 7 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

8 The length of time a particular underlayment can remain uncovered and exposed to the sun s ultraviolet rays without suffering deterioration can vary from a week to a year, depending on the type and quality of the underlayment material you select. Usually, a roofing job is completed, start to finish, in one to two weeks. But if there are delays in the middle of the process, such as one caused by a delay in the arrival of certain materials, or when defects are found in the material that is delivered to a job site which may take days or even weeks to replace, the underlayment should be of high enough quality to withstand that exposure to the sun. It should be suitable for the high temperatures experienced in Southwest Florida. It should be walkable, and not have a very slippery surface that is difficult for workers to get around on. The material should be resistant to punctures, as from a hammer or tile being dropped on it during the installation process. It should be reinforced to minimize such damage. Different underlayments specify different numbers of tiles that can be safely stacked in each pile without puncturing the underlayment when loading the roof deck prior to installation,. Pay attention to the thickness of the underlayment. This could vary from 40 mils to over 115 mils. (A mil is one thousandth of an inch. 30 mils is about the thickness of a plastic credit card.) Different grades of underlayment will have different lengths of limited warranties. You should consider that selecting a low cost underlayment can have a major effect on the resulting service life of the whole roofing structure. You should carefully weigh the savings of a few hundred dollars up front against the risk of a shorter life for your new roof system, resulting in costly premature leaks. Some materials may require additional means of attachment to hold them in place. Consider whether the selected material might, over time, cause delamination of the plywood roof decking. Consider whether the selected material might be difficult or impossible to remove when it comes time for the next owner to re-roof. Determine if both the contractor and the manufacturer of the underlayment material will stand behind their quality of workmanship and honor their written warranties no matter what method of attachment is selected. Most importantly, ensure that the material you select has been tested and approved to have met both the Florida and Lee County Building Code requirements for an underlayment. It would also be beneficial to check that the material meets the requirements of your property insurance carrier, enabling you to receive their maximum annual premium discounts. Eave treatment: This includes an eave closure and a drip edge, which create a finished look for roofs. The eave closure elevates the tiles to the proper height at the eave, while blocking the opening to prevent entry of birds and vermin. It contains a series of small holes, located in the bend of the material s lower flange, which allow moisture to escape from under the tiles and flow over the drip edge and not be entrapped, as can happen with our present installation. Since the tiles are not designed to form a water-tight envelope, some amount of rain and condensation from high humidity will reach the underlayment surface. This moisture will flow down the slope of the roof, escaping through the holes in the eave closure. The drip edge covers the exposed edge of the roof deck and allows this moisture to fall to the ground or enter a gutter. Eave closures are fabricated to specifically match the profile of the tile selected for our roofs, and VGG rules require that the finished paint color of the closure and drip edge match, as closely as possible, the color of the roof tile for consistency of appearance in our community. Roof Metals and Metal Coatings: The thickness of the base metals used in a tile roofing system is basically either 26 or 24 gauge (GA). In sheet metals, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the sheet is. The thickness of uncoated cold rolled 26 GA is inches, and 24 GA Is inches. The pieces used will be slightly thicker due to being hot dip coated with a corrosion resistant material plus an added baked on coat of paint to closely match the color of the roof tiles. Page 8 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

9 Corrosion protection must be applied to the various steel elements of a tile roof system to obtain the expected service life of the roof system, preventing premature unsightly rusting and failure of various fastener connections. The most commonly used coatings (below any finish painting) for sheet steel products today are hot dipped galvanizing (G90) and Galvalume. While both have their good points, Galvalume seems to be the most widely used coating for roofing metals in Southwest Florida. Each of these coatings is produced in a series of different thicknesses (or weights of coating), where basically the thicker the coating the greater protection it provides against corrosion. For Galvalume coated metals, the coating normally contains 55% aluminum. Since steel and aluminum are two widely different materials, this brings up a situation that should not be ignored, galvanic corrosion, which occurs when two widely different metals are brought together regularly when moisture is present. This is a condition which, if ignored, could result in the premature rusting or even failure of the connection between such parts when they are attached by regular steel nails. Take a look at your lanai screen enclosure. Are the screws rusting? This is a result of galvanic corrosion and/or an insufficient rust protective coating. This can be solved by using stainless steel screws made from Type 316 Stainless Steel alloy or steel screws (or nails) with a heavy coating (greater than 1.5 mils in thickness) of zinc or cadmium, with a dichromate topcoat. Note: Steel screws (or nails) with standard thicknesses of zinc (or cadmium) coatings, while generally being more readily available, do not offer the long-term durability required for use with Galvalume coated sheet steel materials. Such standard coatings can be consumed in a relatively short time leading to accelerated & unsightly corrosion. While stainless steel fasteners will add some cost (a roof may only require a few boxes), the extra money spent for the small number of special fasteners required should eliminate a possible problem of having to remove rust stains after only a few years, after spending the money to install a whole new roof system on your home. Flashing: To ensure the long term integrity of a roof system, it is critical to prevent water and debris from entering the system. Critical areas, such as the intersection of different sloped roof s decks at hips & valleys, skylights, vents, and plumbing pipes must be properly flashed to keep the system water tight. Valley Metal: A thickness of 24 GA is recommended. While both 24 GA and 26 GA are used in Southwest Florida, some contractors will actually specify the thicker 24 GA in their basic proposals. However, considering the fact that the valley is the major conduit of water run-off from a roof, the added protection from the slightly thicker material is felt to be a wise investment. The difference in weight is only ¼ pound per square foot, which, with an estimated 200 square feet of this material on a Villa roof, would amount to an added weight of 50 pounds. The W Valley Metal, which includes a raised center rib approximately 2-1/2 high, comes in three different configurations. All three have the same center rib. One has return flanges on either side, one has 2 small ribs on either side of the center rib and the other just has the center rib. Certain contractors have a preference for one configuration over the others, but all are acceptable for our Villa roof applications. The center rib provides a guide and controls the tile spacing for a closed valley fit-up with the tiles. The addition of small ribs on either side of the center ribs allows the channels for water run-off to be kept open more easily. The valley metal comes with either a Galvalume or galvanized (G90) coating for corrosion resistance. Galvalume seems to be the most widely used coating in Southwest Florida, and is claimed to provide a longer service life. Either is acceptable for our Villa applications. We recommend that an additional 36 inch wide strip of underlayment be applied under the entire length of the valley metal. Page 9 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

10 Vents: A critical factor in a roofing system s durability and longevity is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture can build up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters, deck sheathing, and underlayment to rot, and attic insulation to lose its effectiveness. Therefore, it is important never to block off sources of roof ventilation, and to provide a sufficient combination of soffit and off-ridge venting. Lack of proper off-ridge venting can create a situation in which the high temperatures & humidity in southern Florida can drive up energy costs and severely reduce the life span of a roof s underlayment. It is estimated that 75% of homes have no or inadequate attic ventilation. This is particularly true of our Villa roofs, which have no vents in the upper ridge areas. While there is venting at the eaves provided by the soffit vents, they are at the lowest points of the attic space and it must be remembered that heat rises. Therefore, without venting at the ridge areas, the hot air (and humidity) cannot easily escape. In a hot climate (such as Southern Florida) the primary purpose of ventilation is to expel this solar-heated hot air from the attic or roof undersurface, thereby reducing the home s cooling load, and relieving the strain on the air-conditioning system, but we maintain that reducing the premature deterioration of the roofing underlayment is equally or more important. In our research into available off-ridge vents, we have found two different designs in use in this area. The first is a 4 foot box vent, a rectangular shape that also typically comes in lengths of 6 and 8 feet, mounts in place of four tiles, projects above the height of the tiles by 4 to 6 inches, and should be located within 18 inches of the highest ridge. The second is the O Hagin Inc. design, which has the approximate shape of the tiles, with each vent mounted in place of two regular tiles. Either style will have to be painted on site to match the color of the tiles. The O Hagin vent has been tested and is approved by Miami-Dade County Product Control, passing all their tests without leaking. We suggest that each Villa be equipped with either two of the 4 ft. box vents or four of the O Hagin vents. Whichever vent type is chosen, they should all be mounted at the same level, close to the highest ridge of the Villa, with half located on the rear of the Villa s roof, and the other half located on one side of the roof. Note: The reason for not mounting vents on directly opposite sides is that a negative pressure (vacuum) could be created in the attic space under high wind conditions. If the wind velocity was high enough, this could create a serious structural failure. H Suggested Guidelines to Follow When Choosing a Contractor It is always advisable to obtain multiple bids for comparison. A minimum of 3 is usually recommended. Deal only with registered contractors who are properly licensed, insured, and bonded, making certain that their insurance coverage will be in effect through the duration of your job, and they have adequate coverage for contractor s liability & workers compensation. Each contractor s documentation should be verified by receiving copies of their current policies, checking with the Lee County Contractor Licensing Office 3 and their insurance carrier. Call the local BBB 1 or Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation 2 to check for any complaints that have been filed against them, and check to see that they have a permanent place of business, not just a telephone number. Look for a contractor with a proven track record of completed projects, one that offers references, with names and telephone numbers of previous customers. Then definitely call to verify that those referenced were happy with the work done for them. You might even take the time to go look at a few of their previous job sites. Make certain the contractor is financially stable. Contractors should provide current financial information about their company, which can be verified. Have them specifically state, in writing, that the use of Sub-Contractors will NOT be permitted. Page 10 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

11 The contractor should agree to pull all permits required, and schedule the necessary inspections. Any proposal should be clearly written, containing a detailed listing of the scope of work to be done, materials that will be used, and procedures of the work they will be doing. Request that they include a commitment for the approximate starting and completion dates and payment options. This should include an outline of the work, from the tear-off of the old roofing to the cleanup of your property site upon completion. If you don t understand something, question it, and if you still don t understand it, continue asking until you are satisfied. The contractor must remove all existing roofing materials down to the roof decking, and properly dispose of all this debris. Any proposal should include any extra costs for re-nailing existing decking (plywood) to meet the fastener size and spacing required by current codes, and inspection for and replacement of all rotted decking & fascia boards. Have the contractor outline how your exposed roof will be protected against inclement weather or delays during each process of the job, and who will be responsible for repair of any such damage. (From water leaks, wind damages, etc.) Have the contractor explain their project supervision and quality-control procedures, plus furnish the name of the person or persons who would be in charge of your project. You should require the contractor to provide trained professionals to supervise that the work is being done in a workmanlike manner, by trained and qualified mechanics using the proper technical equipment for the job. Then, upon completion, they should inspect the workmanship and your premises to insure that the conditions of the contract have been met satisfactorily, adhering to all guidelines of the Tile Roofing Institute and of course all state and local building codes required for the re-roofing of your home. Have the contractor put in writing what the type and length of all warranties offered will be, what is actually covered by the contractor, and what is covered by the various component manufacturers. (i.e. who would be responsible for the cost of labor and materials to correct a leak, etc.,) It should be specified in writing who is responsible for repairing or replacing exterior landscaping, irrigation system, building, building finishes, exterior fixtures, or interior finishes that may be damaged during the course of the work. Also specified should be how the contractor will protect your driveway, sidewalks, windows, air conditioning unit, irrigation heads, etc. during the process of teardown and re-roof. (From items falling or dropped off the roof, damage from the weight of the dumpster parked next to your building to collect the tear-off materials, or from a forklift or crane used to load new materials onto the roof.) You should require a warranty on material, labor, and workmanship for a minimum of five years. Upon completion, the contractor should be prepared to furnish all necessary documentation that your new roof meets or exceeds all wind mitigation guidelines or standards, enabling it to meet your property insurance carrier s requirements so you can receive all applicable annual premium discounts. If an estimate seems much lower than the other estimates you have received, and sounds too good to be true, it probably is! These types of contractors often are not truly licensed or don t have the proper training for that type of work, often are uninsured, and perform substandard work. Remember, price is only one criterion for selection of a contractor. Quality of workmanship should weigh heavily in making your decision. If an estimate is confusing or unclear, continue to ask questions until you are satisfied. Page 11 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015

12 I) Items That Should Be Covered in a Written Contract with a Roofer A separate contract should be executed for each of the two or four owners whose building is being re-roofed. Most of the provisions in these separate contracts will be the same, but items such as the addition of skylights, solar tubes, or gutters might be different for the individual Villas. A schedule of payments should be a part of the written contact. Some contractors may be willing to negotiate terms, but it is recommended that the owner NEVER agree to pay for the materials required for the job themselves, as this might indicate financial insolvency on the part of the contractor. Some contactors will request that a fee be paid upon signing a contract, with the remainder being divided up into portions at certain points in the job. An example of this would be 1/3 at contract signing or start of job, 1/3 after underlayment is installed or when tile is loaded on the roof, and the final 1/3 upon completion. Some will agree to a series of progressive payments with the total 100% due upon completion. Some may accept payments by credit card, but may add a fee on top of the total contract price. NEVER make complete payment until you have received all approvals and inspections, and are comfortable that your roof has been completed according to the contract you signed. A notarized final release of lien should be received before you make the final payment, assuring that the contractor no longer has the right to place a construction lien on your property. J) Things to be Aware of When Re-Roofing It should be recognized that the weight of the concrete tile roof on a Villa is approximately 16 tons. Therefore, during the process of re-roofing, (removing the old, then applying the new) you might encounter some compression cracking in the drywall. Compression cracks are the result of the opening and closing of gaps between vertical framing members due to the change in weight they are supporting. Compression cracks could be either vertical or horizontal, usually following the drywall seams, as opposed to diagonal cracking at door and window openings, which usually is a result of foundation movement. Fragile items hanging on walls and/or sitting on open shelves should be moved to a safer place because of the vibrations from the removal of the old roof and then the loading and installing of the new roofing materials. Furniture should be moved from lanais. Flower pots should be moved beyond work areas. Automobiles should be moved to a safe and accessible area for your availability during the several days required to do the project. Villas at Gateway Greens Roof Committee, Jim Black, Chairman Disclaimer Statement The information contained in this Roof Replacement Supplement is intended to transmit a more detailed explanation of what is given in the VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations document. It is for general information purposes only. It is an attempt to provide a broad overview of the history of, and some experiences with the present Villa roof system, a glossary of common tile roofing terms, suggestions for evaluation of an existing roof s condition, and some information to assist Villa owners in making certain critical decisions which they alone must make. Any reliance placed on information presented herein is therefore strictly at each Villa owner s own risk. While the information provided herein was gathered through extensive investigation, there should be no assumption as to its completeness and/or accuracy. Reference / Contact Information: 1 Better Business Bureau: On this website: Search using the name of the company of interest. They may or may not be accredited by BBB. Not being accredited may just mean that the particular company hasn't applied for accreditation. 2 Florida Dept. of Business & Professional Regulation: On this website select: > License Category: Construction > License Type: Certified Roofing Contractor > Special Qualification: Certified Roofing Contractor 3 Lee County Contractor Licensing Office: Call (239) to verify that a particular contractor is currently a "Certified Tile Roofing Contractor" Page 12 of 12 Supplement to: VGG Roof Replacement Rules and Recommendations February, 2015