MILWAUKEE-STYLE STATION AND TRAIN SHED

Transcription

1 HO Scale Structure Kit MILWAUKEE-STYLE STATION AND TRAIN SHED Thanks for purchasing this Cornerstone Series kit. All parts are styrene, so use compatible glue and paint. Please read the instructions and study the drawings before starting. The Train Shed can be extended using additional kits (# , sold separately), if desired. By the late 19 th century, railroads were the symbol of modern technology. Swift, sleek and novel, travel by train was an adventure no matter how long or short the trip. And as cities grew into major terminals, railroads sought to project power, strength and confidence to the public with up-to-the-minute station facilities. Many factors had to be considered in these new designs. The ideal location was in or very near the heart of the downtown area. While land there might be scarce and very expensive, a more convenient location meant more business. Passengers could enjoy direct service (a major plus for commuters) to the city s business and commercial areas, as well as easy access to cabs, or streetcar and subway lines. Competition was keen, and every railroad serving a city typically built its own grand station, each trying to outdo and outspend the others. From roughly 1860 to 1890, many were built in the High Victorian Gothic Revival style. Inspired by medieval castles and cathedrals, such designs featured strong, vertical lines that made buildings seem taller, heavy masonry construction, bold details, buttresses, windows with pointed arches, pinnacles and gables. To further capture public attention and add additional height, many designs incorporated imposing clock towers stretching well above the main building, a further reminder of how railroads and Standard Time shaped countless lives. Similar attention was lavished on interiors to better handle larger numbers of travelers. Chief among these was the development of the central concourse, allowing for direct movement in and out of the station and immediate access to ticket windows. For those who were early or waiting for connecting trains, separate waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen were added on opposite sides of the concourse; many stations also housed restaurants and other services in areas at the side of the concourse. Upper stories also become more common and were used for railroad offices. Two general station types appeared that could be constructed to serve tracks above, below or on street level. Smaller cities received through or side stations, where tracks paralleled the rear of the building. This allowed for fast service as trains could arrive and depart without extra switching or reverse movements. Most terminal stations in large cities were head or stub stations where the building was literally the end of the line. While this design was sometimes used because of limited space, it was often simply because the majority of trains ended or began their runs there and management saw no need for a through station. Large train sheds were also required, but were much simpler than earlier designs. Sides were open to increase air circulation across the platforms. High roofs were still used, but to vent smoke and steam up and away from the platforms, they were crowned with a large clerestory. To prevent leaks, roofs were of solid construction, which required interior lighting. Lamps had to be carefully placed to eliminate shadows and make walkways safe for passengers, but without extra glare or reflection that would bother train crews. Gas and oil lamps were used, but these were soon replaced with electric lamps that could be turned on and off as needed to reduce operating expenses. Moving passengers and their baggage to and from the trains also impacted the design of the shed platforms. The movement of passengers had to be safe and simple. This was less of a problem at head or end stations as passengers could walk from the concourse to the platforms. At side stations, stairways above or below ground routed passengers to the platforms. Getting baggage out to the platform was a science in itself. To avoid wheeling loaded baggage wagons through passenger waiting areas, underground passageways were built at some stations between the main building and platforms, with freight elevators at either end. Others had special platforms between each pair of tracks used only for loading baggage. Passenger operations were not limited to the new station. Railroads typically built coach yards nearby to service cars before they were moved to the station. This required support operations such as a commissary, laundry and repair sheds. Express and Post Office buildings were also found here to move shipments as quickly as possible. A roundhouse, turntable and fueling facilities were sometimes provided just for passenger engines so they could be quickly serviced. Following World War II, most big stations began to decline. Commercial airlines and private automobiles ate away the railroad s share of long-distance travel, while the spread of freeways and suburbs moved population centers and employment out of the central business district. Skyrocketing land values in city centers, the dated appearance of many buildings, poor maintenance and a general belief that they had outlived their usefulness led to the destruction of many stations from this colorful period of railroad history. ON YOUR LAYOUT The Milwaukee Road s Everett Street Station, a local landmark from 1886 to 1964, inspired your new model. This imposing three-story structure shared many design elements with similar stations built in other medium and large American cities in this era. Serving a variety of trains with a wide range of equipment and schedules, your new station is a perfect addition to any size layout. Where space is limited, it can be the focal point of operations. It can easily be used as a head or side station and installed at or above track level. The Train Shed included with your new model can easily be expanded by combining additional Train Sheds (# ); the prototype was 600' long and was similar to sheds used in many other cities. Additional Milwaukee structures are available to complete your new station scene including the Freight House and Office Combination Kit (# ), which can be expanded with the matching Freight House (# ). The main office (# ) is also offered separately. The octagonal Gateman s Tower (# ) is perfect for protecting busy city streets near the station. The Built-up Yard Office (# ) and Walthers Water Street Building (# ) are also based on actual structures. For Milwaukee Road fans, 10 authentic Hiawatha passenger cars are available (# series), based on equipment in service circa Matching PROTO 2000 E7 A Units are available in sound & DCC (# series) or standard DC (# series) versions to power your trains. A wide range of passenger cars, figures, vehicles and accessories are available to set the scene. See your dealer, or check out the latest Walthers HO Scale Model Railroad Reference book or visit our Web site at for more ideas Wm. K. Walthers, Inc. Milwaukee WI, 53218

2 1. Glue windows (42, 44, 46, 52) and door (73) into the openings in the back of wall #18. Then glue the glass (43, 45, 47, 53, 74) on the backs of the appropriate windows and door. 2. Glue windows (42, 46, 52) into the openings in the back of wall #17. Then glue the glass (43, 47, 53) on the backs of the windows as shown. 3. Glue windows (40, 48, 77) into the openings in the back of wall #16. Next glue the glass (41, 49, 78) on the backs of their respective windows. 4. Glue windows (42, 46, 54) and door (75) into the openings in the back of wall #19. Glue the glass (43, 47, 55, 76) on the backs of the windows and door as illustrated. 5. Glue windows (46, 56, 71) and door (69) into the openings in the back of wall #20. Now glue the glass (47, 57, 70, 72) in place. 6. Glue windows (48, 50, 71) and door (69) into the openings in the back of wall #6. Glue the glass (49, 51, 72) on as shown. Note: You can build one of two tower options 2x 2x 7. Short Tower - Glue the clock inserts (10, 11) in place on the backs of wall # s 6, 7, 8 and 9 as illustrated. You can then cut out the clock faces and, using a drop of white glue, glue them in place in the inserts. Note: The smaller face goes in #11 and the larger in #10. Glue the glass covers (105, 106) over the faces, matching the slight taper of the glass with the opening. Note: You can also model the short tower without clocks don t apply the faces and leave the glass Short Tower x3 x3 2x Full Size Clock Tower 4x remove below line off. 9. Full Size Tower - Glue the front wall (6) and side walls (7, 8) together. Glue the floor (13) in place and then the rear wall (9). On the rear wall balcony (107) cut off the bottom vertical supports and then glue in place. Glue the 2 DEPOT 8. Glue the front wall (6) and side walls (7, 8) together. Then glue the floor (13) in place. Next glue on the rear wall (9). Glue the roof (96) on top. Set aside for now. remaining balconies (107, 108) in their respective positions. Set aside for now.

3 10. Following the illustration at left, glue the windows (58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 67) into their respective positions on the tower walls (14, 15). Then glue the glass (59, 61, 63, 65, 68) on the backs of their companion windows. 11. Glue the four walls (14, 15) together. 12. Cut out the clock faces and, using a drop of white glue, glue them in place on the walls. Glue the glass covers (105, 106) over the faces, matching the slight taper of the glass with the opening. 13. Glue the spire roof (97, 98) together first and then glue it in place in between the tower walls. Glue the turret roofs (99, 100) onto the walls and spire roof. Glue the turret finials (102) on. Then glue the spire crest (101) on top. Set aside for now. Trackside 14. Glue the bases (1, 2, 3) together. Note: When gluing bases #2 and 3 together, make sure you glue the peg Towerside of #2 into the proper notch in #3. The trackside walls should be straight across while the towerside end front walls will jut out. First glue on the gutters (79) to trackside walls #16. Then glue the completed wall sections (16, 17, 18, 19, 20), the right and left wall returns (21, 22) plus the tower from either step 8 or step 9 together and to the base. Note: Use the wall joiners (23) for a stronger joint between trackside walls 16 & 17 and 16 & Glue the other gutters ( 80, 81) on the towerside walls as shown. 3

4 16. Glue the inner roof add-ons (84, 85) to the inner roofs (83) as illustrated. Glue these to the outer roofs (82). Glue these completed roofs within the walls at each end. 17. Glue the center roof support (92) underneath the center flat roof (89). Glue the trackside center roof (90) to the support, aligning the edges with part #89. Then glue this roof assembly in between the center wall section and the back of the tower, fitting above the ridges on those parts. Note: Make sure this assembly is aligned with the edges of the tower. 18. Glue the roof support pieces (91) underneath the slope roofs (86, 87). On the trackside slope roofs, cut out a notch on the bottom edge of the angled side (see insert illustration). Glue the slightly curved end of the flat roofs (88) to the inner roofs (83 ) as shown. Next glue these sections in place, resting on the ridges of the inner roofs, the tower sides and on top of the gutters. 19. Glue the dormer sides (93, 94) in place on the sloped roofs. Next glue the dormer roofs (95) on. left right x8 x8 x8 remove notch on bottom corner edge on both trackside roof pieces # s 86 and 87 Trackside Towerside Glue the end chimneys (29, 30, 31, 32) together and then in place on the backs of the end walls. 21. Glue the left (33, 34, 35, 39) and right (36, 37, 38, 39) center trackside chimneys together and then in place on the center wall.

5 2x 2x 22. Glue the four large chimneys (24, 25, 26, 27, 28) together and glue two to the towerside sloped roofs, between the dormers and likewise two on the trackside. 23. Glue the trackside downspouts (103) onto both ends of each gutter, covering the wall joints. Note: Shorten them where they meet the steps. Glue the towerside downspouts (104) underneath the gutters. 23. Finish by gluing on the end wall stairs (5) under the doorways as well as the smaller steps (4) under the single doors. 5

6 TRAIN SHED IMPORTANT! By combining more than one kit, you will be able to extend your shed s length. The illustrations show the construction of one kit. However, there are written instructions to tell you how to expand the basic kit. 1. Glue the main roof (15) sections together. If you are building this kit as one complete structure, glue the end roof (17, 18) panels on both ends of the main roof. If you plan to extend the shed with another kit, glue the end roof (17, 18) panels on only one end! Then on the other end, glue the next kit s main roof sections on. Add the other two end roof panels to the last main section used. 2. Glue the center beams (14) to the main roof sections where they meet at the top. 3. Glue the roof trusses (12) within the ridges found on the bottom of the main roof sections. 4. Glue the main braces (13) in between the supports. 5. Glue the end braces (19) in between the supports and to the main roof sections. 6

7 6. Glue the downspouts (25) to every other roof truss (12) starting at one end. Note: The downspouts have three clips on one side of the vertical pipe. These are to be glued to the outer edge of the main roof truss. Also, trim the top of the pipe so that it will fit under the roof without forcing the downspout below the bottom of the I-beam. This could cause the structure not to sit properly on the platform. 7. Glue the clerestory (16, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24) together and to the roof. Note: Parts #16 and #21 are splice pieces that help to stiffen the clerestory roof and sides respectively. If you are expanding your shed with another kit, leave one end (22) wall piece and one roof extension (24) off the end that you are adding to. Add those parts (22, 24) to the clerestory on the last main roof section. 8. Glue the side platforms (3, 7, 11) together. Note: Part #11 is used to strengthen the joints from the bottom. If you are expanding your shed, leave one end piece (7) off and glue it on the last platform used. Do the same procedure for the following platforms. 9. Glue the center platform (1, 5, 9) together. 10. Glue the two middle platforms (2, 6, 10) together. 7

8 11. Lay four straight lengths of track (not included), long enough to extend past the ends of the platforms, down on your layout where you want the shed. Then put the center platform between the two middle tracks, making sure the platform edges butt up tight against the outside of the rails. Next put the middle platforms against the outside of the middle tracks. Now add two more tracks, one next to each of the middle platforms. Add the side platforms to the edges of these tracks. Note: Make sure the edges of all the platforms are up tight against the sides of the rails and that all the platforms are lined up straight at the ends. If this is done correctly, the finished shed will fit into the holes in the side platforms, allowing you to take the shed off to adjust cars, figures, etc. that are under it. Once the spacing is correct, glue the platforms and track in place. You can now add one more track on each side of the corner platforms. 12. Glue the track platforms (4, 8) together and put them in between the track rails. 8 SIGNS To mount signs, simply cut the desired name and, using a small drop of white glue on the back, glue it in place.