Home Inspection Report

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1 Home Inspection Report 1234 School House Road Yourtown, Yourstate Prepared for: Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer Prepared by: 1217 Cape Coral Parkway East #177 Cape Coral, Florida Phone: (239)

2 Page 1 of 17 Definitions All definitions listed below refer to conditions discovered at the time of inspection only. S Serviceable Item appears to be suitable for everyday use. No obvious signs of defect noted. Normal wear and tear and/or cosmetic damage is excluded from this report. NP Not Present Item is not installed or not found. NI Not Inspected Item is disconnected, turned off, not readily accessible or is beyond the scope of this inspection. M Marginal Item requires monitoring, maintenance, upgrading or improvement. RR Repair or Replace Item is not operable, damaged, defective or is unable to perform its intended function. Requires immediate attention and/or requires the expertise of a qualified contractor. General Information Property Information Property Address 1234 School House Road City Yourtown State Yourstate Zip Building Type Single family home Entrance Faces North Northwest Electric On No Not Applicable Water On No Not Applicable Gas On No Not Applicable Property Occupied No Others Present The buyer Realtor Name Ima Goodagent Realtor Phone (239) Other (239) Realtor imagoodagent@ .com Client Information Client Name Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer Client Phone (239) Other (865) Client mrbuyer@sample.com Inspection Company Inspector Name Bob Turner Company Name Address 1217 Cape Coral Parkway East #177 City Cape Coral State Florida Zip Phone (239) Inspection Company Bob.NDHI@gmail.com FL License Number HI8643 Inspection/File Number Inspection Fee $ Payment Method Personal check #1234 Conditions Inspection Date 03/17/2007 Start Time 10:00 a.m. End Time 2:00 p.m. Recent Precipitation No significant precipitation in the previous 48 hours Weather Conditions Sunny Soil Conditions Dry

3 Page 2 of 17 Lots and Grounds Driveway: Gravel. Grading: The soil is too high at the rear of the home. Ideally, a 6 inch clearance between the siding and the soil should be present in order to help prevent moisture and/or pest intrusion behind the siding. Also, the soil improperly slopes toward the home's foundation at the front as well as at the rear. A slope of approximately 6 inches in ten feet away from the home is recommended for proper rain water drainage. Water accumulation at the home's foundation can potentially cause settlement as well as may allow moisture intrusion into the basement. I recommend grade improvements be completed. Retaining Walls: The concrete block retaining wall along the driveway is deteriorating and leaning significantly. Should the wall fail, the soil behind it will no longer be retained. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed. Front Walks: Front Stoop: Uncovered, concrete. Right Side Deck: The safety railing is not properly installed along the elevated deck's perimeter and easily rocks back and forth. The deck is not properly supported from below. The 6"X6" wooden beam is pulling loose from the support post. The deck is unsafe to use in this condition. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the deck and its components as needed. Rear Walks: Stepping stones. Rear Porch/Patio: Covered, concrete.

4 Page 3 of 17 Exterior Components Siding: Vinyl. Trim: Brick veneer. Fascia: The aluminum trim is absent in several areas. I recommend installing fascia trim where absent in order to help protect the wood framing. Soffits: Vinyl trim over wood framing. Gutters: The end cap is absent from the rear gutter near the porch. This will allow rain water accumulation at the porch and at the home's foundation. I recommend installing an end cap. Downspouts: Aluminum/galvanized. Downspout Extensions: Corrugated pipe. Exterior Lighting Present? No Front and rear. Electrical Outlets: GFCI. Hose Bibs/Spigots: Frost free, gate style. Gas Meter:

5 Page 4 of 17 Roof Shingles: Architectural asphalt shingles. Roof Shape/Style: Gable. Approximate Age: 10 years, based on visual observations. Method of Inspection: Walked the roof. Ridges: Several nails have begun to pull out of the metal ridge vent. Lifted nails create a potential entry point for moisture. Several ridge vent seams do not appear to be properly overlapped and have been caulked. Caulking will eventually dry and crack, also creating a potential entry point for moisture. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed in order to prevent leakage. Skylights: Plumbing Vents and Collars: The PVC vent pipe is broken at the rubber collar. There does not appear to be a sufficient amount of pipe left at the collar to enable a proper seal around the pipe. The plywood below this area (inside the attic) is slightly water damaged. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the pipe and/or collar as needed in order to prevent leakage. Chimney Chimney Construction: Brick and mortar. Chimney Flashing: The flashing detail has been improperly nailed through. Nails penetrating the flashing creates a potential entry point for moisture. Water staining is present below this area inside the attic. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the flashing detail as needed.

6 Page 5 of 17 Roof (Continued) Chimney Flashing: (continued) Chimney Cap: Several cracks have developed in the mortar and have been previously sealed. Periodic maintenance will be necessary in order to help prevent the cracks from enlarging and allowing water intrusion into the chimney. Flue Rain Cap: Metal. Attic Access: Overhead scuttle. Located in kitchen pantry ceiling. Method of Inspection: Inside the attic with a flashlight. Roof Framing/Ceiling Joists: 2"X4" engineered trusses. Roof Sheathing: Plywood. Ventilation Openings: Gable, ridge and soffit openings. Insulation Type: Fiberglass batts. Attic Fan: Switch controlled. The switch is located inside the pantry. House Fan: Lighting: Outlets/Switches: Exposed Wiring: The 240 Volt wire supplying power to the HVAC air handler has been damaged. The copper wire is exposed through the plastic sheathing. This may potentially cause arcing and is a safety/shock hazard for anyone entering the attic. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the air handler's damaged 240 Volt wire. Exposed Heating/Cooling Ductwork: Insulated metal duct.

7 Page 6 of 17 Interior Components Front Entry Door: Wood core with metal interior and exterior. Rear Entry Door: Wood with window. Side Entry Door: French doors. Closets: Located inside the hall and bedrooms. Ceilings: Textured drywall. Non-structural cracks and cosmetic blemishes are not included in this report. Ceiling Fans: Switch and remote controlled. Walls: Paneling and painted drywall. Non-structural cracks and cosmetic blemishes are not included in this report. Floors: The kitchen floor is sloping downward toward the rear entry door. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate, repair or replace as needed. Doors: Solid wood. Windows: Double pane, vinyl. Outlets/Switches: The outlet near the side entry door does not have any power. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate, repair or replace. Heating/Cooling Source: Ceiling and floor registers. Smoke Detectors: Battery operated. Stairs: Carpet over wood. Handrails: Wood.

8 Page 7 of 17 Fireplace Fireplace Construction: The fireplace has sustained settlement. The brickwork is significantly cracked along the mortar joints to the left and to the right of the firebox. The firebox floor is sloped downward toward the exterior wall and a large crack has developed between the hearth and firebox floor. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed. Type: Wood burning. Smoke Chamber: Brick and mortar. Flue: The fireplace has settled downward. Gaps have developed between the clay tiles. This may allow heat/flames to escape from the flue into the chimney and is a fire hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the flue prior to using the fireplace. Damper: Metal. Hearth: The hearth has settled and is sloping downward toward the living room. A large gap has developed between the hearth and the firebox. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed. Heatilator Fan:

9 Page 8 of 17 Kitchen Refrigerator: Kenmore. Functional at time of the inspection. Oven/Range: General Electric. Functional at time of the inspection. Ventilator Fan Present? No Built into the microwave. Built-in Microwave: The microwave was serviceable at time of the inspection. However, the electrical connections inside the cabinet (located above the microwave) do not take place inside a junction box. Open wire connections may eventually come loose and are a potential safety/shock hazard for anyone using the cabinet above the microwave. I recommend a qualified contractor install a junction box. Dishwasher: General Electric. Functional at time of the inspection. Disposal: Sink: Stainless steel. Faucet: Single handle with spray. Drain: PVC. Counter Tops: Particle board with formica. Cabinets: Wood. Pantry Present? No Outlets/Switches: GFCI outlet(s) and lighting circuit(s). Bathrooms Main Level Bathroom Counter Tops: Particle board with formica. Cabinets: Wood. Sink: Single bowl. Faucet: Two handle. Sink Drain: PVC. Tub/Shower Surround: Cast iron tub and ceramic tile surround. Tub/Shower Valve: Three handle valve. Tub/Shower Drain: Lever type drain stopper. Toilet: 3 gallon tank. Ventilation Fan Present? No Outlets/Switches: GFCI outlet(s) and lighting circuit(s). Basement Bathroom Counter Tops: Cabinets: Sink: Wall hung porcelain. Faucet: Two handle. Sink Drain: PVC.

10 Page 9 of 17 Bathrooms (Continued) Shower and Surround: Fiberglass/acrylic unit. Shower Valve: Single handle. Shower Drain: PVC. Toilet: The toilet leaked from the base when flushed. I recommend a qualified contractor replace the leaking seal. Outlets/Switches: GFCI outlet(s) and lighting circuit(s). Laundry Room Washing Machine: Washer Electrical: 120 Volt. Washer Shut-Off Valves: Gate valves. Visual inspection only. The valves were not operated at time of the inspection as it is beyond the scope of this inspection to operate any shut-off valves. Washer Connection Hoses: Washer Drain: PVC. Dryer: Dryer Electrical: 240 Volt. 3 prong outlet. Dryer Exhaust Duct: Rigid metal. Electrical Panel Exposed Wiring: The wires exiting/entering the top of the panel are not properly strapped. I recommend a qualified contractor properly strap the wires in order to help prevent loose electrical connections. Service Entrance Cable Type: Copper. Service Size Amps: 200. Volts: Volts. Electrical Panel Manufacturer: General Electric.

11 Page 10 of 17 Electrical Panel (Continued) Location: Garage. Max Panel Capacity: 200 Amps. Main Breaker Size: 200 Amps. 120/240 Volt Branch Wiring: Multi-tapping is present at several breaker connections. (This means two wires are installed on a single breaker). Circuit breakers are designed to accept only one wire. Multi-tapping can add to the load of the affected circuit, causing possible overload, tripping breakers, loose connections, arcing and overheating. I recommended a qualified contractor eliminate the improper breaker connections. Single Strand Aluminum Branch Wiring: Grounding/Bonding: Rod in ground with copper wire. Circuit Breakers: General Electric. AFCI Breakers: Bedroom circuits. GFCI Breakers: Basement, exterior, garage, kitchen, bathrooms. Labeling: All of the circuit breakers are not labeled. I recommend labeling all of the circuits. Is the panel full? No Panel is full, additional circuits cannot be installed. Is the panel bonded? No

12 Page 11 of 17 Plumbing Water Service: Public/city water. Exposed Water Lines: CPVC. Main Water Shut-Off Valve Location: Garage. Water Pressure: 60 PSI. Septic/Sewer System: Public/sewer according to the MLS, this was not verified during the inspection. Exposed Drain Pipes: PVC. Exposed Gas Lines: Water Heater Operation: Functional at time of inspection. Manufacturer: Craftmaster. Manufacturer Date: Type: Electric. Capacity: 50 Gallon. Area Served: Whole home. Electrical Disconnect Present? No Pull out type breaker. Water Heater TPR Valve Drain Tube: I recommend installing a copper or CPVC pipe on the temperature and pressure relief valve to within 6 inches of the floor. Extremely hot and/or high pressure water would exit the valve rapidly should the water pressure or water temperature exceed the valves settings.

13 Page 12 of 17 Heating & Air Conditioning System Type of Heating System: Heat pump. Capacity: 2.5 Ton. Area Served: Main level and finished basement. Heating System Operation: Fuel Type: Electric. Type of Cooling System: Heat pump. Capacity: 2.5 Ton. Area Served: Main level and finished basement. Cooling System Operation: Exterior Unit Manufacturer: Payne. Manufacturer Date: Electrical Disconnect Present? No Pull out type breaker. Refrigerant Lines: Insulated copper. Interior Unit Manufacturer: Payne. Manufacturer Date: Electrical Disconnect Present? No Pull out type breaker. Blower Fan: Functional at time of the inspection. Condensate Removal: PVC pipe. Thermostat: Located in the hall. Filter: The 30 day disposable filter is dirty. I recommend upgrading the filter to help the air handler operate properly and efficiently.

14 Page 13 of 17 Basement House Entry Door: Wood. Stairs: Carpet over wood. Handrails: Iron. Ceiling: Drop ceiling with tile and drywall. Foundation Walls: Block. Moisture Penetration: None found during the inspection. Beams: Triple 2"X10". Support Piers/Posts: Subfloor: Plywood. Floor Joists/Ceiling Trusses: Numerous 2"X10" joists have been cut in order to allow room for the HVAC air duct. Cutting the joists in this manner greatly reduces their load bearing capabilities. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the cut joists in order to help prevent floor failure. Floor: Concrete. Windows: Double pane, vinyl. Window Wells: I recommend pulling back the soil from below the front windows and adding window wells in order to hold back the soil. A minimum 6" gap between the soil and the bottom of the window is recommended in order to help prevent moisture intrusion. Walkout/Exterior Door: Outlets/Switches: 120 Volt outlets and lighting switches. Smoke Detectors: Battery operated. Heating/Cooling Source: Ceiling registers. Exposed Heating/Cooling Ductwork: Flex duct. Insulation:

15 Page 14 of 17 Garage Type of Structure: Drive-in-basement. Car Spaces: 1 Garage Door: Insulated aluminum/steel. Door Opener: Chain driven. Man Door: Metal with window. House Entry Door: Metal. Ceiling: Garages with livable space above should have a fire rated ceiling to help slow the spread of fires which may originate inside the garage. I recommend having a ceiling installed. Walls: Particle board and block. Windows: Double pane, vinyl. Floor: Concrete slab. Outlets/Switches GFCI outlet(s) and lighting circuit(s). Heating/Cooling Source: Exposed Heating/Cooling Ductwork: Insulated metal duct and flex duct.

16 Page 15 of 17 Marginal Summary Marginal items require monitoring, maintenance, upgrading or improvement. This Marginal Summary is not the entire report. The report includes additional information of concern to Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer. It is recommended that Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer read the entire report. Lots and Grounds 1. Grading: The soil is too high at the rear of the home. Ideally, a 6 inch clearance between the siding and the soil should be present in order to help prevent moisture and/or pest intrusion behind the siding. Also, the soil improperly slopes toward the home's foundation at the front as well as at the rear. A slope of approximately 6 inches in ten feet away from the home is recommended for proper rain water drainage. Water accumulation at the home's foundation can potentially cause settlement as well as may allow moisture intrusion into the basement. I recommend grade improvements be completed. Exterior Components 2. Fascia: The aluminum trim is absent in several areas. I recommend installing fascia trim where absent in order to help protect the wood framing. 3. Gutters: The end cap is absent from the rear gutter near the porch. This will allow rain water accumulation at the porch and at the home's foundation. I recommend installing an end cap. Roof 4. Chimney Chimney Cap: Several cracks have developed in the mortar and have been previously sealed. Periodic maintenance will be necessary in order to help prevent the cracks from enlarging and allowing water intrusion into the chimney. Electrical Panel 5. Labeling: All of the circuit breakers are not labeled. I recommend labeling all of the circuits. Plumbing 6. Water Heater TPR Valve Drain Tube: I recommend installing a copper or CPVC pipe on the temperature and pressure relief valve to within 6 inches of the floor. Extremely hot and/or high pressure water would exit the valve rapidly should the water pressure or water temperature exceed the valves settings. Heating & Air Conditioning System 7. Filter: The 30 day disposable filter is dirty. I recommend upgrading the filter to help the air handler operate properly and efficiently. Basement 8. Window Wells: I recommend pulling back the soil from below the front windows and adding window wells in order to hold back the soil. A minimum 6" gap between the soil and the bottom of the window is recommended in order to help prevent moisture intrusion. Garage 9. Ceiling: Garages with livable space above should have a fire rated ceiling to help slow the spread of fires which may originate inside the garage. I recommend having a ceiling installed.

17 Page 16 of 17 Repair or Replace Summary Repair or Replace items are not operable, damaged, defective or are unable to perform their intended function. Requires immediate attention and/or requires the expertise of a qualified contractor. This Repair or Replace Summary is not the entire report. The report includes additional information of concern to Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer. It is recommended that Mr. and Mrs. Home Buyer read the entire report. Lots and Grounds 1. Retaining Walls: The concrete block retaining wall along the driveway is deteriorating and leaning significantly. Should the wall fail, the soil behind it will no longer be retained. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed. 2. Right Side Deck: The safety railing is not properly installed along the elevated deck's perimeter and easily rocks back and forth. The deck is not properly supported from below. The 6"X6" wooden beam is pulling loose from the support post. The deck is unsafe to use in this condition. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the deck and its components as needed. Roof 3. Ridges: Several nails have begun to pull out of the metal ridge vent. Lifted nails create a potential entry point for moisture. Several ridge vent seams do not appear to be properly overlapped and have been caulked. Caulking will eventually dry and crack, also creating a potential entry point for moisture. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed in order to prevent leakage. 4. Plumbing Vents and Collars: The PVC vent pipe is broken at the rubber collar. There does not appear to be a sufficient amount of pipe left at the collar to enable a proper seal around the pipe. The plywood below this area (inside the attic) is slightly water damaged. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the pipe and/or collar as needed in order to prevent leakage. 5. Chimney Chimney Flashing: The flashing detail has been improperly nailed through. Nails penetrating the flashing creates a potential entry point for moisture. Water staining is present below this area inside the attic. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the flashing detail as needed. Attic 6. Exposed Wiring: The 240 Volt wire supplying power to the HVAC air handler has been damaged. The copper wire is exposed through the plastic sheathing. This may potentially cause arcing and is a safety/shock hazard for anyone entering the attic. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the air handler's damaged 240 Volt wire. Interior Components 7. Floors: The kitchen floor is sloping downward toward the rear entry door. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate, repair or replace as needed. 8. Outlets/Switches: The outlet near the side entry door does not have any power. I recommend a qualified contractor further evaluate, repair or replace. Fireplace 9. Fireplace Construction: The fireplace has sustained settlement. The brickwork is significantly cracked along the mortar joints to the left and to the right of the firebox. The firebox floor is sloped downward toward the exterior wall and a large crack has developed between the hearth and firebox floor. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed. 10. Flue: The fireplace has settled downward. Gaps have developed between the clay tiles. This may allow heat/flames to escape from the flue into the chimney and is a fire hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the flue prior to using the fireplace. 11. Hearth: The hearth has settled and is sloping downward toward the living room. A large gap has developed between the hearth and the firebox. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace as needed.

18 Page 17 of 17 Repair or Replace Summary (Continued) Kitchen 12. Built-in Microwave: The microwave was serviceable at time of the inspection. However, the electrical connections inside the cabinet (located above the microwave) do not take place inside a junction box. Open wire connections may eventually come loose and are a potential safety/shock hazard for anyone using the cabinet above the microwave. I recommend a qualified contractor install a junction box. Bathrooms 13. Basement Bathroom Toilet: The toilet leaked from the base when flushed. I recommend a qualified contractor replace the leaking seal. Electrical Panel 14. Exposed Wiring: The wires exiting/entering the top of the panel are not properly strapped. I recommend a qualified contractor properly strap the wires in order to help prevent loose electrical connections /240 Volt Branch Wiring: Multi-tapping is present at several breaker connections. (This means two wires are installed on a single breaker). Circuit breakers are designed to accept only one wire. Multi-tapping can add to the load of the affected circuit, causing possible overload, tripping breakers, loose connections, arcing and overheating. I recommended a qualified contractor eliminate the improper breaker connections. Basement 16. Floor Joists/Ceiling Trusses: Numerous 2"X10" joists have been cut in order to allow room for the HVAC air duct. Cutting the joists in this manner greatly reduces their load bearing capabilities. I recommend a qualified contractor repair or replace the cut joists in order to help prevent floor failure.

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