PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS AND INSTALLATION GUIDE

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1 PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS AND INSTALLATION GUIDE 1

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PAVERS 3 CIRCLE PAC KITS 9 PAVER PATIO AND SIDEWALK INSTALLATION 11 PATIO BLOCKS 17 RETAINING WALLS 21 CLIFTON & DENVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 22 CORNER INSTALLATION FOR CLIFTON & DENVERS 30 BUILDING STAIRS WITH CLIFTON & DENVERS 33 BUILDING TIERED WALLS 35 GEOGRID INSTALLATION 36 STEP BLOCKS & PILLAR CAPS 46 EDGERS 47 LANDSCAPING DESIGN TOOLS We are dedicated to providing the tools you ll need to make designing your landscaping easy! Start with your imagination and create a plan for the perfect backyard retreat. $ Landscaping Estimator Create your dream backyard in 3D Printed Literature* Tools you can take with you Videos Step by step how to DIY instructions Driveway Use Block rated for residential driveway use Design-It Center Create a 3D drawing and materials estimate * 2

3 PAVERS $ PATIO PAVER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Patio Paver 1-1/2" x 3-7/8" x 7-7/8" 3-1/2 lbs 4.72 Red/Black $ HOLLAND PAVER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Holland Paver 2-3/8" x 3-7/8" x 7-7/8" 6 lbs 4.72 Autumn Blend Charcoal Red/Black Red (not available at all locations) Sienna Tan ADA Holland Paver 2-3/8" x 3-7/8" x 7-7/8" 6 lbs 4.72 Red (Available as Special Order) HOLLAND & PATIO PAVER PATTERN IDEAS Running HERRINGBONE Bond RUNNING Herringbone BOND BASKET Basketweave WEAVE CASINO Casino BLEND Blend Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: STACK BOND DOUBLE STACK BOND VERTICAL RUNNING BOND OFFSET RUNNING BOND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. PAVERS 3

4 RIVERFRONT PAVER $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS (L) Riverfront Paver 2-3/8" x 15-5/8" x 23-1/2" 72 lbs Tan/Charcoal (M) Riverfront Paver 2-3/8" x 15-5/8" x 15-5/8" 47 lbs Tan/Brown (S) Riverfront Paver 23 lbs Gray/Charcoal /8" x 7-3/4" x 15-5/8" Running Bond Herringbone Basketweave Casino Blend RIVERFRONT PAVER PATTERN IDEAS HERRINGBONE RUNNING BOND CASINO BLEND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M, 1 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 2 M, 2 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M, 1 S STACK BOND VERTICAL RUNNING BOND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M, 1 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 2 M, 2 S Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. 4 PAVERS

5 $ RIVERFRONT BOARDWALK PAVER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Riverfront Boardwalk Paver 2-3/8" x 3-7/8" x 15-5/8" 12 lbs 2.37 Charcoal Gray Sienna RIVERFRONT BOARDWALK PAVER PATTERN IDEAS HERRINGBONE RUNNING BOND BASKET WEAVE CASINO BLEND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: STACK BOND DOUBLE STACK BOND VERTICAL RUNNING BOND OFFSET RUNNING BOND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. PAVERS 5

6 TURFSTONE PAVER $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Turfstone Paver 3-1/2" x 23-1/2" x 15-3/4" 67 lbs 0.39 Gray FLAGSTONE PAVER $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Flagstone Paver 2-1/2" x 13-5/8" x 11" 18 lbs 1.54 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna PAVERS

7 $ COURTLAND PAVER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS (L) Courtland Paver 2-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 11" 11 lbs Autumn Blend (M) Courtland Paver 2-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 8-1/4" 9 lbs Autumn Blend (S) Courtland Paver 2-3/8" x 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" 6 lbs Autumn Blend COURTLAND PAVER PATTERN IDEAS Kingston Running Bond 3 to 1 Courtland Running Bond Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: M, 2 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 3 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M, 1 S Cobalt Nashville Sedona Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 4 M, 1 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M, 4 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L,1 M, 2 S Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. PAVERS 7

8 TUMBLED BELGIAN PAVER $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS (XL) Belgian Paver 2-1/4" x 8-7/8" x 8-7/8" 14-1/2 lbs 1.83 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (L) Belgian Paver 2-1/4" x 5-7/8" x 8-7/8" 10 lbs 2.75 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (M) Belgian Paver 2-1/4" x 5-7/8" x 5-7/8" 6-1/2 lbs 4.14 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (S) Belgian Paver 2-1/4" x 3" x 5-7/8" 3-1/4 lbs 8.28 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan BELGIAN PAVER PATTERN IDEAS 4 BLOCK RUNNING BOND 4 BLOCK STEP BAHAMA BRUSSELS Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 1 L, 1 M, 1 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 1 L, 1 M, 3 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 1 L, 1 M, 2 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 2 L, 3 M, 7 S COBBLE RUNNING BOND KINGSTON MARANA MONTEGO Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 4 M Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 2 M, 3 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 1 L, 3 S RUNNING BOND 3 to 1 TUNGSTEN CHARLESTON BARCELONA Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 3 M Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 8 M, 8 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL,1 M, 3 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: XL, 4 L, 2 M, 4 S Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. 8 PAVERS

9 CIRCLE PAC KITS $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION WEIGHT PER BLOCK SQUARE FT WEIGHT PER PALLET COLORS Tumbled Circle Kit 6' 6" Diameter 6.5 lbs (varies) Kit Covers 28 sq. ft lbs (varies) Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Tumbled Circle Kit 9' 6" Diameter 6.5 lbs (varies) Kit Covers 70 sq. ft lbs (varies) Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan DIAGRAM FOR 6.5' CIRCLE Required Amounts: Center E = 1 qty F = 8 qty G = 96 qty A = 32 qty B = 24 qty BLOCK QUANTITIES PER RING: Center E = 1 qty Ring 1 F = 8 qty Ring 2 G = 16 qty Ring 3 G = 24 qty Ring 4 G = 15 qty A = 10 qty B = 5 qty Ring 5 G = 18 qty B = 18 qty Ring 6 G = 23 qty A = 22 qty B = 1 qty CIRCLE PAC KITS 9

10 DIAGRAM FOR 9.5' CIRCLE Required Amounts: Center E =1 qty F = 8 qty G = 199 qty A = 74 qty B = 60 qty BLOCK QUANTITIES PER RING: Center E = 1 qty Ring 1 F = 8 qty Ring 2 G = 16 qty Ring 3 G = 24 qty Ring 4 G = 15 qty A = 10 qty B = 5 qty Ring 5 G = 18 qty B = 18 qty Ring 6 G = 23 qty A = 22 qty B = 1 qty Ring 7 G = 25 qty B = 25 qty Ring 8 G = 30 qty A = 31 qty Ring 9 G = 48 qty A = 11 qty B = 11 qty FOR TUMBLED BELGIAN CIRCLES LARGER THAN 9.5' DIAMATER, USE 6" x 6" BELGIAN PAVERS (sold separately) Ring 10 Ring 11 Ring 12 Ring 13 Ring 14 Ring 15 Ring qty. 68 qty. 72 qty. 80 qty. 86 qty. 92 qty. 98 qty. 10 CIRCLE PAC KITS

11 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION $ 1 SCALE DRAWING To begin, make a drawing of the existing area you want to put your patio; noting any existing trees, planting beds or decks it needs to be tied in with. Be sure to measure everything. Use a straight, 16' 2x4 with a 4' level on it and a tape measure to get a rough idea of how much the yard slopes (note that on the drawing too). With the drawing and measurements, use the Landscaping Estimator on Menards.com to lay out a few different designs. (Image 1) Remember these helpful tips: -Patios must have a slight slope (1" for every 4' to 8') for proper drainage. If you don t provide enough slope, rainwater will settle into low spots, eventually softening and washing out the sand and subbase materials beneath. A flat or poorly sloped patio could even direct water into your basement. Too much slope and it will feel like things are rolling off your patio. Bear in mind you can build up low spots with an extra-thick layer of subbase. -Ask yourself how you ll be using your patio. A minimum of 25 sq. ft. of patio per house occupant is recommended. A patio at least 16' long in one direction is often the most functional. Plan for at least a 6' x 6' area out of any traffic path for a dining table and chairs. Do you need space for a grill? Lounge Chairs? A wading pool? Planters? Hopscotch? Sketch these on you tracing paper as well. -In small areas, use simple pavers and patterns (like the running bond). In large areas, you can break up the expanse with a variety of patterns or dividing bands. -Curves add interest and grace to the patio-but also a lot more cutting and extra work. 2 Pavers, Materials and Tools When ordering pavers, estimate the square footage of your patio, then add 10 percent. If you have a lot of curves, borders or half pavers add 15 percent extra. This allows for damaged pavers and provides extra ones for future repairs. Use plastic edger to outline the perimeter and hold everything in place. Paver Base, available at your local Menards, is the perfect subbase material. Each 1/2 cubic foot bag will cover 3 sq. ft. at a 2" depth. Paver leveling sand and paver locking sand will also be necessary for completion of your project. For tools, you ll use everyday hammers, levels and tape measures as well as larger tools, such as a flat-plate vibrator and a masonry saw. 2 Outline the patio perimeter using a garden hose to indicate curved areas and long 2x4s for straight sections. Planning and Layout The first thing you should think about is where the last paver will wind up. Will your yard accommodate the slope and size of your patio? Will a square patio end in nice, full pavers or skinny little slivers? With your plan in hand, lay down garden hose and 2x4s to form an outline of your patio (Image 2). PAVERS 11

12 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION Use your level and a straight 2x4 to double-check the lay of the land for proper slope. Then spray-paint a line 8" outside the outline of your patio to act as a line of excavation. Be sure to call to locate and mark out your utility lines, this must be done before beginning excavation. Start by stripping away the sod at this point (Image 3), so grass doesn t get in the way of the guide strings you ll soon be setting up. 3 Remove sod in an area extending 8" beyond the boundaries of the patio. Spray paint indicates the excavation line. 4 Use a level, a 2x4 and stakes to determine the slope of the patio. A slope of 1" per 4-8' away from the house is ideal. Run stakes and a grid of string to mark the top of the finished patio, then excavate 5" PLUS the thickness of the paver below the strings.* Excavating The Site And Building The Base This part of the project is the key to a successful (and long-lasting) patio. Use the bottom of a door or a set of stairs abutting the patio area as the starting point for establishing the final height and slope of you patio. Your entire patio should slope away from the house at a rate of 1" every 4' to 8' This slope may be one long decline or a slight dome shape so water runs off in more that one direction. Place one end of a long 2x4 at the bottom of the stairway or an inch below the door threshold, then level across to stakes driven at the perimeter of the patio and make a mark (Image 4). Make another mark the appropriate distance down the stake to indicate the slope. In our case, after making a level mark on our stake with a level and 12' 2x4, we made another mark 2" down to indicate a slope of 2" for that 12'. 12 *When installing pavers as a residential driveway, a minimum of 8" of subbase will be required. See local code for details. PAVERS

13 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION Make a grid work of stakes and guide strings to indicate the finished height and slope of your patio, then excavate 5" PLUS the thickness of your pavers, below these lines. This will provide room for a 4" subbase, the 1" leveling sand base, and the pavers themselves (Image 5). If the area is hilly, you ll need to go back and forth between excavating, leveling and setting strings to get things right. Soil conditions vary greatly across the country. If after digging the necessary depth below your strings, you still find pockets of loose dirt or black soil, remove it or it will eventually settle, creating a wavy patio. When installing pavers as a residential driveway, a minimum of 8" of base will be required. See local code for details. 5 BASE & EDGING DETAIL Next, bring in the subbase material. Bring the area up to a of height 1" PLUS the paver thickness below your guide strings (Image 6). It should be at least 4" deep in all places. The subbase should extend 8" beyond the actual edge of the patio to provide room for the edging. It s possible you ll need to build up an area to accommodate your patio. In such cases, remove the sod and loose soil, then build up the area with your subbase material. Add subbase in 2-3" lift increments, compact, and repeat until reaching the desired base level. Building a 10" to 12" subbase is common; even 20" would not be unusual. 6 Spread subbase to a depth of 4" over the entire patio area and 8" beyond. Measure down from the guide strings to establish a uniform subbase surface. Tamping the subbase is an important step when installing your new paver patio, walkway, or driveway (Image 7). Proper compaction provides stability to the project by spreading any load over a greater area of the ground below. If laid and compacted properly the subbase will help to recompress the surrounding soil that could have been disturbed while excavating. 7 Tamp the subbase using a flat-plate vibrator. Work in a circular motion compacting the area twice. PAVERS 13

14 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION The Essential Edging Edging is an absolute must for maintaining the integrity of your patio. Without solid edging, your sand base and pavers will separate and drift apart from the forces of rain, frost and foot traffic. Plastic edging is available at your local Menards store. Secure the edging into the compacted subbase with spikes (Image 8). 8 Install the edging on the tamped subbase using 8-12" spikes. 9 Spread and level a 1" bed of sand over compacted subbase. Pipes provide a guide for dragging the 2x4 screed board. Spreading Sand Sand provides the final base for your pavers. If this surface is uneven, the pavers on top will be too. Ideally, the sand should be 1" thick, but if it s a little thicker or thinner in spots, that s okay. What you want is a firm, flat surface for laying pavers. Sand also locks the pavers in place. When you vibrate the pavers, they ll bed themselves slightly into the sand. If your patio is under 10' wide, use a screed board with a 2" notch on the ends to ride along the edging to level the sand. On larger expanses, level long lengths of pipe in the sand 2" below your guide strings, then run your screed along the top of the pipes. When you re done with the pipe, remove it, then fill in the groove it leaves with sand (Image 9). In many cases you ll use a combination- a notched screed board riding along the edging on one end, with the other end of the screed running along a pipe. Whichever screeding method you use, roughly dump and level the sand over the compacted subbase, then fill in low spaces and rake excess sand as you drag your 2x4. Shuffle the screed lightly from side to side as you work. You re not compacting the sand, just creating a firm, solid bed. Screed only as much sand as you can cover with pavers in one day. Screeded sand left longer than a day may need to be screeded again, as weather and other elements may displace sand. 14 PAVERS

15 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION 10 Lay paver stones in desired pattern. If the desired pattern requires cutting, the pavers can be cut with a circular saw with a masonry blade. Pave Away You should now be standing before a flat, slightly sloped expanse of sand. Take down the guide strings you used to determine height and slope and put up new stakes and strings to mark the lines for the pattern of you pavers (Image 10). Start along your house or other long straight edge and lay down the border pavers. (A border isn t essential, but adds a crisp, finished look, especially along curves.) Then lay the rest of your pavers in your selected pattern. Just lay the pavers in place- don t stand on them or twist them. Measure over to your string every few rows to make sure you re staying on track. Tap the pavers tighter together with a rubber mallet. Midwest Manufacturing pavers have little nubs on the side to serve as spacers. If you ve taken the time to set things up right, laying the pavers will go quickly. Don t walk or kneel on the edge of the patio until after you ve vibrated it; otherwise these pavers can sink unevenly. 11 Mark pavers that run "wild" into the border area. Then remove the paver, cut to size and place back in position along with border paver. 12 Cut pavers on masonry saw. Saw has built-in sliding carriage for moving pavers past the blade. Recirculating water keeps blade cool and lubricated. Let pavers run wild near the edges of your patio. Using a paver as a guide, (Image 11) mark the inner pavers, remove and cut them on a masonry saw, then reinstall the cut inner piece and the border piece. On tight radius circles, you can use half pavers for the border to avoid large, pie-shaped voids between them. Always wear proper hearing and eye protection while operating a masonry saw. PAVERS 15

16 PAVER PATIO & SIDEWALK INSTALLATION When all your pavers are cut and in place, vibrate the entire patio, starting at the outer edge and working inward in a circular motion (Image 13). The vibrator will lock the pavers into the sand and help even up the surface. Don t let the vibrator sit in one place too long, or pavers could settle unevenly or crack. You can put plywood down and vibrate on top of that to help distribute the weight of the machine. If a paver sinks deeper than its neighbors, use a screwdriver to pry it up, sprinkle a little extra sand in the void, then replace the paver. 13 Tamp the patio with a flat-plate vibrator after all the pavers are installed. Tamp entire outside edge first, then circle in. 14 Sweep Paver Locking Sand into the paver joints. Once paver surfaces have been cleared, begin dampening paver joints. Paver Locking Sand Using a broom sweep Paver Locking Sand to fill the paver joints. The joints should be filled to the paver chamfer (shoulder). Compact sand into joint spaces as thoroughly as possible. The use of a small plate vibrator for compaction is recommended. Carefully remove any remaining sand from paver surface prior to dampening. The best appearance is achieved by eliminating all sand from the surfaces of the pavers. It may help to use a leaf blower to remove all sand and dust from the top of the paver and dust that might have settled before watering. Then use a garden hose with a fine misting nozzle to dampen the filled joints. Do not over water the joints and avoid letting water pool on the joints; a light misting will achieve the best results. Repeat dampening process three more times every minutes. Allow the locking sand to dry undisturbed for a minimum of 24 hours before allowing foot traffic, and wait 48 hours for vehicle traffic. Humid and wet conditions or low temperature will delay hardening. Pathways A pathway can be part of a larger project or a project in itself. A walkway made from pavers is an attractive way to link your driveway to your front door, existing deck to new patio, or back door to garden area. Here are a few tips: Keep the pattern simple; a border running parallel to the path with a simple staggered pattern within is often the most attractive. Put a slight tilt in the path for drainage. 1/2" across a 3' wide path is adequate. Take extra care to keep the edges an equal distance apart; it will make screeding, cutting and paver laying easier. 16 PAVERS

17 PATIO BLOCKS $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQ FT COLORS 12" Brickface Patio Block (small) 2" x 11-5/8" x 11-5/8" 22 lbs 1.07 Red Tan " Brickface Patio Block (large) 2" x 16" x 16" 40 lbs 0.56 Gray Red Tan Lakestone Patio Block 2" x 16" x 16" 40 lbs 0.56 Quarry Gray Red/Black EZ Slate Patio Block 2" x 16" x 16" 40 lbs 0.56 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna " Wetcast Diamond Patio Block 1-5/8" x 23-1/4" x 23-1/4" 75 lbs 0.27 Gray Smooth Patio Block 1-1/2" x 11-3/4" x 11-3/4" 17 lbs Gray: Red: PATIO BLOCKS 17

18 PATIO BLOCKS PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Available in 4 interlocking shapes, each sold separately. Wetcast Flagstone Patio Block 2" x 12" x 20" Average size 20 lbs Average weight.71 Average square footage Tan Wetcast Yorkstone Patio Block (round) 1-5/8" x 14" round 20 lbs - Charcoal Wetcast Yorkstone Patio Block (S)1-5/8" x 8" x 16" 17 lbs 1.12 (M) 1-5/8" x 16" x 16" 32 lbs 0.56 (L) 1-5/8" x 16" x 24" 52 lbs 0.37 Charcoal Sienna Charcoal Sienna Charcoal Sienna Wetcast Ashlar Patio Block 1-5/8" x 16" x 16" 32 lbs 0.56 Gray YORKSTONE PATIO BLOCK PATTERN IDEAS COBBLE RUNNING BOND KINGSTON MARANA RUNNING BOND 3 to 1 Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 1 M Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 4 M Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: L, 2 M, 3 S Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: 8 1 L, 3 M Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. 18 PATIO BLOCKS

19 PATIO BLOCKS PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Cobblestone Patio Block (square) 2" x 16" x 16" 40 lbs 0.56 Suede Cobblestone Patio Block (quarter turn) 2" x 16" x 16" 40 lbs 0.56 Suede COBBLESTONE PATIO BLOCK PATTERN IDEAS WAVE SQUARE CIRCLE SEMI-CIRCLE OFFSET SEMI-CIRCLE FAN Blocks may need to be cut to fit at the edges of patio. PATIO BLOCKS 19

20 PATIO BLOCKS PRODUCT DESCRIPTION TxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT COLORS Classic Patio Block 1-5/8"T 15-1/4" x 7-5/8" 16 lbs 1.24 Gray Red Tan Wetcast Wood Plank 2" x 23-3/4" x 7-3/4" 30 lbs 0.78 Cedar CLASSIC PATIO BLOCK PATTERN IDEAS Running Bond HERRINGBONE RUNNING BOND BASKET WEAVE Casino Blend CASINO BLEND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: STACK BOND DOUBLE STACK BOND VERTICAL RUNNING BOND OFFSET RUNNING BOND Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: WETCAST WOOD PLANK PATIO BLOCK PATTERN IDEAS HERRINGBONE VERTICAL RUNNING RUNNING BOND 4 BLOCK STEP BOND SEDONA Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: PATIO BLOCKS

21 RETAINING WALLS $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK RECOMMENDED WALL HEIGHT BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT (by block face) COLORS Crestone LT 3-1/2" x 8" x 7" 13 lbs Up to 21" (6 layers high) gravity wall 5.14 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Crestone Straight 3-1/2" x 11-1/2" x 7" 17 lbs Up to 21" (6 layers high) gravity wall 3.57 Autumn Blend Sienna Tan Crestone Beveled 3-1/2" x 11-1/2" x 7" 17 lbs Up to 21" (6 layers high) gravity wall 3.57 Autumn Blend Cobalt Gray Quarry Gray Red Red/Black Sienna Tan Lakewood 5-1/2" x 11-1/2" x 8" 28 lbs Up to 33" (6 layers high) gravity wall 2.28 Autumn Blend Cobalt Sienna Tan Lakewood XL 5-1/2" x 18" x 8" 48 lbs Up to 33" (6 layers high) gravity wall 1.45 Autumn Blend Cobalt Sienna Tan RETAINING WALLS 21

22 CLIFTON & DENVER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK RECOMMENDED WALL HEIGHT BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT (by block face) COLORS Denver Beveled 6" x 17" x 12" 54 lbs Up to 36" (6 layers high) gravity wall 1.43 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Denver Straight 6" x 18" x 12" 58 lbs Up to 36" (6 layers high) gravity wall 1.33 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Clifton Beveled 8" x 17" x 12" 70 lbs Up to 40" (5 layers high) gravity wall 1.07 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Clifton Straight 8" x 18" x 12" 77 lbs Up to 40" (5 layers high) gravity wall 1.00 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Clifton Corner 8" x 18" x 9" 78 lbs Up to 40" (5 layers high) gravity wall 0.66 Quarry Gray Sienna Tan *The back lips are not structural and are not needed to maintain the integrity of the wall. *42" and taller requires geogrid reinforcement and professional design is advised Engineering available in Denver and Clifton blocks. See Midwest Manufacturing Engineering for more details. BEFORE INSTALLATION BEGINS CLIFTON & DENVER RETAINING WALL INSTALLATION 1. Confirm lot lines, wall location, wall length, set back requirements and elevations. 2. Confirm the on-site soils. For walls built in clay or poor soils, consult an engineer to confirm the wall design and the required soil reinforcement. See Midwest Manufacturing Engineering for more details. 3. Call the local utility companies to confirm the location of underground utilities. 4. Obtain all necessary building permits and verify local building code requirements. An approved plan may be needed to obtain a building permit for walls above a certain height. 5. For walls adjacent to property lines, at some time in the future a surcharge may affect the stability of the structure. Contact the Engineer of Record to ensure that additional loading has been taken into consideration. 6. Consider drainage and water management to avoid erosion or buildup of water behind the wall. 22 RETAINING WALLS

23 GRAVITY WALL DESIGN ASSUMPTIONS The design methodology for conventional gravity walls is based upon the following: 1. There is no slope behind the wall. 2. Surcharge loads applied at the top of the wall are limited to foot traffic where the applied forces will be between 0-50 PSF. 3. There is good surface and subsurface drainage to prevent hydrostatic pressures at the back of the wall and the reinforced soil zone. 4. The site soil has adequate strength to support the wall and good draining soils will be used behind the wall. In addition, the ground water table is assumed to be well below the reinforced zone. 5. The cubic foot weight of the soil is the moist unit weight that includes the weight of water occurring naturally in the soil. 6. Seismic loading is not considered. 7. The site can support the weight of the wall. 8. The foundation soil will not settle or deform to cause failure. 9. Keep in mind, conventional segmental retaining walls are generally effective as gravity structures for most non-critical wall applications under 4 feet high, including the block below grade. For walls exposed 3 feet or more, you must terrace the wall or use geogrid to reinforce the soil. Consult a professional engineer for design assistance on taller walls. See Midwest Manufacturing Engineering for more details. BASIC WALL INSTALLATION - GRAVITY WALLS Segmental Retaining Walls that rely on their own weight, core fill, friction between units and setback are called gravity walls. Conventional segmental retaining walls are generally effective as gravity structures for most non-critical wall applications. Don t assume shorter walls never require the services of a soils engineer. The heights listed by the manufacturer are used as a rule of thumb when ideal wall conditions are present. Walls that exceed the heights listed by the manufacturer require additional construction techniques such as terracing or the use of geogrid reinforcement. These types of walls are known as reinforced or engineered wall structures. They are also referred to as Mechanically Stabilized Earth (MSE) walls. The performance and construction of most retaining walls is highly dependent on the type and condition of the on-site soils and the contractor s placement and compaction of the soils behind and under the walls. It is important to know the properties of various types of soils and understand how they might affect your estimate. To get a better understanding about soils, a brief review of soil types and properties is shown on page 24. RETAINING WALLS 23

24 Step 1 - Base Course Preparation Beginning at a point of the wall s lowest elevation, excavate a trench down the length of the wall that will accommodate at least 6" of compacted base material. We suggest burying 10% of your wall height below grade with a minimum of 6" even on short walls. Step the trench up or down with respect to adjacent grade. The width of the trench for both the Denver and Clifton Walls should be a minimum of 24". Based on the type of application and what is retained, the depth of the leveling pad may vary. If necessary, consult with an engineer. After excavating the native soil and prior to adding base material, remove loose material from the trench and compact. 6 Min. Base Fill Thickness Upper Grade Leveling Pad Trench 24 x 6 Min. Compacted Granular-Base Leveling Pad 6 Min. Base Fill Thickness 12 Min. Backfill 24 Min. Base Fill Width SRW Block Approximate Limits of Excavation Native Soil 24 Lower Grade 6 Min. Block Embedment 24 x 6 Min. Compacted Granular-Base Leveling Pad Oversize Area Step 1 (Option 1) - Using an Edger Add a concrete edger in front of the retaining wall to act as a bolster against grass and weeds. Retaining wall must sit a minimum of 6" below grade. Top of edger should match top of grade. Step 1 (Option 2) - Pouring a Concrete Footing Complete all steps described in Step 1. Then, a concrete footing should be poured on top of the granular base course. This step will require concrete forms set in place to create the size footing needed. 24 AN ALTERNATIVE TO WEED TRIMMING Using an Edger Pouring a Concrete Footing NOTE: Size of the footing as well as steel reinforcement shall be determined at the time of engineering. NOTE: Remove the back lip of the retaining wall units prior to installing the first tier on the footing. RETAINING WALLS

25 Soils are divided into three groups: Granular - sands and gravel consisting of grains down to.002" - Best for strength and support Clay - very fine particles, > 50% passing #200 sieve -May cause settlement Please note: If you are unsure of your soil condition, consult a soils engineer. Organic - loam, peat that is made up of moss, leaves and vegetable matter, and topsoil - Should be removed Step 2 - Leveling Pad Installation Place a minimum of 6" of compacted base material and compact to 95% Standard Proctor density. Verify that the base is level with a transit or hand level. Be aware that the base material (commonly referred to as road base or base aggregate) will vary from region to region. The base material should consist of crushed material: 3/4" crushed concrete with fines or 3/4" crushed rock or limestone with fines. Your material must be angular, nothing round. Round rock will act like ball bearings and roll when under pressure, causing the wall to bow or collapse. Step 3 - Base Course Installation The base course will consist of one layer of block. Base units will have the rear lip removed before placing on the leveling pad. Use a string line behind the tail of the block for alignment on straight wall applications. All blocks should rest firmly on the pad and be centered to allow 6" of base material in front and 6" behind the base block. Level each block, side-to-side, front-to-back and across three full blocks with a hand level. A rubber mallet may be used to level and align the blocks. Step 4 - Core and Drainage Fill Place 3/4" to 1" clean aggregate (crushed rock) within the cores and a minimum of 12" behind the blocks. This creates a drainage zone and the stone columns that help to unify and maximize the performance of the wall. In addition, sock wrapped perforated drainpipe can be installed at the desired level behind the wall (usually behind the first block above grade). The perforated drainpipe should have adequate slope to drain water in the right direction towards each drainpipe outlet. Drainpipe outlets are usually installed every 30 to 50 ft. RETAINING WALLS 25

26 Step 5 - Successive Course Installation Prior to adding successive courses, the top of each block needs to be clean and free of foreign material. Center the block and pull it forward until the rear lip abuts the two blocks below it. Place core and drainage fill as in Step 4. Place the backfill material behind the drainage rock in maximum 3" to 6" lifts based on the rating of your compaction equipment and compact to 95% Standard Proctor Density. Repeat this process for each successive course. Large compaction or construction equipment should be kept a minimum of 3' from the back of the wall. This 3' area should be compacted with a vibratory plate compactor. Step Stepping a Wall When building your wall with the Clifton, a Corner Block in conjunction with a Step/ Cap may be used to end a course that steps-up. Step Add Step/Caps to Finish the Top of Your Walls 26 RETAINING WALLS

27 Step Stepping a Wall/Another Option Another option for walls that step-up is to cut to fit a 6" wide section of a Step/Cap for the Denver or an 8" wide section of a Step/Cap for the Clifton and lay the Step/Cap vertically to finish the end. To ensure the vertical cap maintains a straight line from the face to the back of the block, a 2" chip is installed near the back of the block (see illustration below). Step/Cap Block cut to 6" or 8" Step 7 - Capping a Curved Wall The Step/Cap is rectangular in shape and is perfect for straight walls. For radius turns, an XL cap will need to be saw cut to fit. To ensure permanent placement of the caps on top of the wall, a quality exterior concrete adhesive should be used. Place the Cap Block and measure the distance of the gap between the caps. Using this measurement, cut the cap so that it is parallel with the adjacent cap unit. Slide the cap in place so that it is flush with the adjacent cap unit. Adhere caps with construction adhesive. Step 8 - Special Applications While the installation steps presented are applicable to most basic wall designs, special consideration needs to be given to those applications in which a slope, surcharge loading and/or less than ideal soils are present. These types of applications may require geosynthetic reinforcement or other engineering design support. Such applications include but are not limited to: Wall Height Water Applications Drainage Fences and Guardrails Driveways and Roads Structures Tiered Walls Bridges and Culverts Please refer to the geogrid reinforced wall sections of this guide for more information in regard to the incorporation of geosynthetic reinforcement in wall design. RETAINING WALLS 27

28 SPECIAL APPLICATIONS AND WALL DETAILS Convex/Outside Curves and Concave/Inside Curves & Corners Step 1 - Base Course Preparation for a Convex Curve Place the blocks on the leveling pad so there are no gaps between them. Consider using PVC Flex Pipes to create smooth and accurate curves. When possible, start building a curve from the center and work left and right through the curve. PVC Flex Pipe Center of Curve First Course Step 2 - Successive Course Installation for a Convex Curve Build each course of units by starting at the same place and the same bond as the last course. Keep in mind, for Convex Curves, the taller the wall the larger the first course needs to be. The radius of each additional course will be slightly smaller than the lower course. Smaller Radius Larger Radius Work Left Center of Curve Additional Courses Work Right 28 RETAINING WALLS

29 RADIUS OF CONVEX CURVES ON SUCCESSIVE COURSES Top Course Radius Center Stake Base Course Radius Convex Curve Chart Block Rows Radius (Min.) /2" /32" /16" /32" /32" /2" /32" /16" CONCAVE/INSIDE CURVE Step 1 - Base Course Preparation for a Concave Curve Place the blocks on the leveling pad so there are no gaps between them. Consider using PVC Flex Pipes to create smooth and accurate curves. When possible, start building a curve from the center and work left and right through the curve. PVC Flex Pipe Center of Curve First Course Min. Convex Radius 3.0 (0.9m) RETAINING WALLS 29

30 Step 2 - Successive Course Installation for a Concave Curve Build each course of units by starting at the same place and the same bond as the last course. Keep in mind, for Concave Curves, the taller the wall the smaller the first course needs to be. The radius of each additional course will be slightly larger than the lower course. Larger Radius Smaller Radius Work Left Center of Curve Work Right Additional Courses DENVER STRAIGHT OUTSIDE CORNER To build a Denver SRW with outside corners, two Denver Blocks are required to make one outside corner. For example, if you need 10 corners to construct a wall, you will need 20 Denver Blocks. Each corner will require four saw cuts and one split. This process allows for just about any degree of outside corner. 30 RETAINING WALLS

31 DENVER BEVELED OUTSIDE CORNER CLIFTON OUTSIDE CORNER Step 1 - Base Course Preparation with Corner Block Using Corner Blocks for outside corners, begin an outside corner from the corner of the wall and install the blocks from the corner out when possible. Step 2 - Successive Course Installation Stagger the Corner Block as each successive course is installed so it is on the opposite side of the wall corner. This corner unit should be pushed back 3/4" to achieve proper setback. Length adjustments to the Corner Block may be necessary to maintain a running bond. Also, always core fill and glue each corner unit to ensure proper interlock. 1st Course 90 Corner 3rd Course Same as 1st Course 90 Corner 2nd Course 90 Corner Flipped and Turned RETAINING WALLS 31

32 DENVER OR CLIFTON INSIDE CORNERS To build inside corners with the Denver or Clifton, corner units are not needed. Step 1 - Base Course Preparation Begin an inside corner from the corner of the wall and install the blocks from the corner out, when possible. Place the second unit at a right angle and centered to the first base unit. Only half of a whole block installed on the corner will be exposed. Also, always core fill each unit to ensure proper interlock. Step 2 - Successive Course Installation Place the second unit at a right angle and center to the 1st unit on the second course. Make sure second course units are placed at a 3/4" setback to the lower inside corner. Continue to install the units left and right of the inside corner to complete the second course of the wall. Repeat the above step-by-step installation core filling all units until the wall height is completed. 1st Base Unit 2nd Base Unit Centered 2nd Course Centered 2nd Course Staggered 1st BUILDING STAIRS WITH DENVER OR CLIFTON RISERS There are a variety of options when it comes to designing and installing steps in conjunction with the Denver or Clifton units and Step/Caps. Virtually any design can be realized. Different riser heights can be achieved by varying the depth of the Denver or Clifton units installed in the base. In this example, we will use the Clifton units. All of the step building techniques listed on the following pages also apply to the Denver units except when building steps with outside corners. The Denver outside corners are to be constructed as outlined on the previous pages. 32 RETAINING WALLS

33 BUILDING STAIRS WITH DENVER OR CLIFTON RISERS (cont.) Before excavation can begin, the rise and run of the stair treads must be determined and codes must be met. Stairs can be built by stacking two Clifton units and a Step/Cap on top of each other for more stability. A more economical option is stacking one Clifton and a Step/Cap. Stairs can be built in front of the wall or into the wall with radius turns or outside 90º corners (see illustrations below). The depth of the excavation will depend on the height required for the risers and if you are stacking two Clifton units or one. Install and compact a 6" base as the footing. Break off the rear lip of each block and place them onto the base across the width of the stair opening. Level each block front to back and side to side. Fill the open cores of the units and the spaces between them with 3/4" to 1" processed gravel and sweep the units clean. Construct the next riser assembly by placing and compacting another 6" thick gravel footing behind the first course of units. Now place a row of Clifton units onto the base and position them directly behind the units in front. Install successive risers in the same manner for the number of stairs needed. The final step is to adhere the Step/Caps with construction adhesive and allow at least 24 hours to dry. Steps Built in Front of the Wall Steps Built into the Wall With a Radius Turn 1st Course 1st Course 2nd Course 2nd Course RETAINING WALLS 33

34 BUILDING STAIRS WITH DENVER OR CLIFTON RISERS (cont.) Steps Built Into the Wall Using Corner Units Riser Cross-Section of Steps Built Into a Wall, Stacking Two Blocks and a Step/Cap 34 RETAINING WALLS

35 TIERED WALLS Tiered Denver and Clifton walls offer a visually pleasing and less obtrusive alternative to conventional wall construction. On sites that provide sufficient land area for this application, these walls are typically designed with green space between the tiers. Walls perform independently and may not need engineering when the distance between gravity walls is at least two times the height of the lower wall, and the height of the upper wall is equal to or less than the height of the lower wall (known as the 2 to 1 rule). Walls that must be evaluated by an engineer are any walls needing geogrid reinforcement. These include walls closer than two times the height of the lower wall, walls with more than two terraces, and terraced walls with any structures above. Terraced walls that do not perform independently based on the 2 to 1 rule listed above must also be evaluated for global stability, and the lower wall must be designed to resist the load of the upper wall. Cap Block Clifton Block 6 Cap Block Clifton Block 1 X 4 ø Drain Tile (Elev. Varies) 6 Cap Block Clifton Block 6 Varies X 1 Other Layers 4 ø Drain Tile (Elev. Varies) 2nd Layer Finished Grade 12 of Free Draining Aggregate 4 ø Drain Tile (Elev. Varies) 1st Layer Minimum Compacted Granular-Base Leveling Pad RETAINING WALLS 35

36 GEOGRID REINFORCED WALLS All installation instructions are the same as for gravity retaining walls except for the addition of geogrid. Geosynthetic reinforcement is an engineered product that is typically comprised of polypropylene, polyester or other high tensile material. Used in conjunction with segmental retaining wall blocks, it helps stabilize the soil mass behind a wall. Depending on the wall design, the length and the number of grid layers will vary. Please remember, plasticized snow fencing is not a high tensile material and should not be used in place of geogrid. Generally, stronger geogrids must be rolled out perpendicular to the retaining wall. As it is unrolled, it is in the same direction that it should be installed. Bidirectional grids are the same strength in both directions and can be rolled out parallel to the retaining wall or perpendicular to the retaining wall. If the geogrid depths are the same as the roll width, it may be more efficient to roll out the geogrid parallel to the retaining wall. If the geogrid depths called for are different than the roll width or if the wall curves, it is best to roll out the geogrid perpendicular to the retaining wall. Cap Block Finished Grade Clifton Block 6 Geosynthetic Reinforcement Other Layers 12 of Free Draining Aggregate 2nd Layer 4 ø Drain Tile (Elev. Varies) 1st Layer Minimum Compacted Granular-Base Leveling Pad 36 RETAINING WALLS

37 BASIC GEOGRID REINFORCEMENT Step 1 - Preparation for Grid The area behind the wall on the grid layer needs to be level with the top of the block (after compaction) and compacted to 95% of the Standard Proctor density (ASTM D698). Step 2 - Grid Placement Place the grid as close to the face of the wall without exposing it after successive placement of blocks. Ensure the grid is placed with the strength direction perpendicular to the wall. Remember, bidirectional grids (2xT) are the same strength in both directions and can be rolled out parallel on straight walls. Check grid manufacturer specifications for proper grid placement instructions. (3xT is undirectional). Step 3 - Preparation for Backfill Place the next course of block. Pull the grid back and stake it so it is taut and free of wrinkles. Step 4 - Backfill and Compact Place 3/4" to 1" clean aggregate (crushed rock) within the cores and a minimum of 12" behind the blocks. Also, place and compact backfill on the grid in lifts no greater than 3 to 6 inches at a time depending on the rating of your compaction equipment. When possible, it is recommended that the backfill be deposited directly behind the wall and pushed to the end of the grid to ensure that it remains taut and wrinkle-free. Step 5 Install Additional Courses Repeat steps 2, 3 & 4 to complete wall to height required, installing additional layers of grid where needed. RETAINING WALLS 37

38 BASIC GEOGRID REINFORCEMENT - CONVEX CURVE Step 1 - Grid Placement Cut geogrid to required lengths and place the grid as close to the face of the wall without exposing it when following the contour of the curve. Place the next course of SRW block, taking care that the grid sits flat and is secured between the units. Each geogrid length should be laid perpendicular to the wall face and pulled tight to remove any slack. The geogrid should never overlap on top of the Clifton or Denver Units. Behind the Clifton or Denver Units, the geogrid will overlap because of the convex curve. In these areas place 3" of fill material to separate. Never compact directly on the geogrid. Step 2 - Successive Grid Layers Repeat Step 1 when installing additional layers of grid. Fill cores and the drainage zone with aggregate material on every course. Place the next layer of infill soil on top of the geogrid by beginning near the wall fascia and spreading it back across the grid. Backfill in 3"-6" lifts, using only vibratory plate compactors within a 3' area from the back of the wall. Place soil in the rest of the infill area in maximum lifts of 6" based on the rating of your compaction equipment and compact to obtain a 95% Standard Proctor density. 38 RETAINING WALLS

39 BASIC GEOGRID REINFORCEMENT - CONCAVE CURVE Step 1 - Grid Placement Cut geogrid to required lengths and place the grid as close to the face of the wall without exposing it when following the contour of the curve. Place the next course of SRW block, taking care that the grid sits flat and is secured between the units. Each geogrid length should be laid perpendicular to the wall face and pulled tight to remove any slack. The geogrid should never overlap on top of the Clifton or Denver Units. Step 2 - Successive Grid Layers After the next course of block is placed, lay the grid to cover the area of non-reinforced soil below. This will ensure 100% coverage. Place the next layer of infill soil on top of the geogrid by beginning near the wall fascia and spreading it back across the grid. Backfill in 3"-6" lifts, using only vibratory plate compactors within a 3' area from the back of the wall. Place soil in the rest of the infill area in maximum lifts of 6" based on the rating of your compaction equipment and compact to obtain a 95% Standard Proctor density. Repeat these steps for successive specified grid layers. RETAINING WALLS 39

40 GEOGRID - OUTSIDE 90 CORNER Step 1 - Grid Placement On an outside 90 corner, it is important that grid layers do not overlap at the corner. Place the first grid layer at the correct elevation and length. Each geogrid length should be perpendicular to the wall face. Lay the first geogrid corner section perpendicular to one side of the corner. Lay the second geogrid section perpendicular to the other side of the corner but not overlapping the first geogrid section. Step 2 - Successive Grid Layers In the corner and on the next course of blocks, place a layer of grid perpendicular to the previous layer of grid. Repeat these steps for successive specified grid layers. GEOGRID - INSIDE 90 CORNER Step 1 - Grid Placement Each geogrid length should be laid perpendicular to the wall face. Extend the grid past one edge of the wall by a minimum of 2'. Along the other edge, place the grid perpendicular to the corner, but don t allow the grid to overlap. 2 Min. Step 2 - Successive Grid Layers At the next designed grid layer, alternate the edge on which the grid is extended a minimum of 2' past the corner. Repeat these steps for successive specified grid layers. 2 Min. 40 RETAINING WALLS

41 Drain Pipe The length of the wall will in most cases determine the amount of drainpipe needed. Check the plan for exact specifications and locations of the drainpipe. ø=34 deg. 120 pcf, No Surcharge, No Slope, Sand and Medium Gravel # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) Concrete Adhesive Use one 10.5-ounce tube of adhesive for every 14 ft. of wall length where Step/Caps and Corners are installed. Use one 29-ounce tube of adhesive for every 39 ft. of wall length where Step/ Caps and Corners are installed. # of Length Rows (ft) ESTIMATES FOR DRAIN PIPE, ADHESIVE AND GEOGRID Geogrid The required type, length, vertical spacing, and strength of geosynthetic vary with each project depending on wall height, loading, slopes, and soil conditions. Poor draining soils such as clay require more geogrid than granular soils, which drain well. Typically, grid should be placed every 2 or 3 courses and should extend back a distance about equal to three-quarters the height of the wall. The number of layers of grid that will be required and how far back the grid should extend shall be determined by your engineer. See Midwest Manufacturing Engineering for more details. These geogrid tables are for preliminary use only. They should not be used or relied upon for any application without verification of accuracy by a qualified engineer. ø=34 deg. 120 pcf, 250 psf Surcharge, ø=34 deg. 120 pcf, No Surcharge, No Slope, Sand and Medium Gravel 21.8 deg. Slope, Sand and Medium Gravel # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) # of Length Rows (ft) # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) # of Length Rows (ft) Clifton Denver ø=26 deg. 110 pcf, No Surcharge, No Slope, Clay # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) # of Length Rows (ft) # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) ø=26 deg. 110 pcf, 250 psf Surcharge, No Slope, Clay # of Length Rows (ft) # of Wall Embedment Units Height (ft) (ft) ø=26 deg. 110 pcf, No Surcharge, 21.8 deg. Slope, Clay # of Length Rows (ft) Clifton Denver RETAINING WALLS 41

42 MATERIAL ESTIMATES FOR THE DENVER, CLIFTON AND STEP/CAPS Denver SRW - Ordering Blocks Based on Length and Height. Beveled-face: Length in ft. x height in ft. multiplied by 1.43 = number of blocks. A wall 100 ft. long and 5 ft. high = 500 sq. ft. x 1.43 = 715 Beveled Denver Units for a 500 sq. ft. wall. Straight-face: Length in ft. x height in ft. multiplied by 1.33 = number of blocks. A wall 100 ft. long and 5 ft. high = 500 sq. ft. x 1.33 = 665 Straight Denver Units for a 500 sq. ft. wall. Beveled-face = Sq. Ft. of wall x 1.43 = Units Needed Straight-face = Sq. Ft. of wall x 1.33 = Units Needed Wall height needs to have the amount of buried block included. We suggest burying 10% of your wall height below grade with a minimum of 6 inches even on short walls. Extra blocks will need to be included if your wall has step-ups and/or stairs. Ordering an extra 5% is recommended to account for any changes during construction. When capping the top of your wall, the Step/Caps will add 3.5 inches to the height. Clifton SRW - Ordering Blocks Based on Length and Height. Beveled-face: Length in ft. x height in ft. multiplied by 1.07 = number of blocks. A wall 100 ft. long and 5 ft. high = 500 sq. ft. x 1.07 = 535 Beveled Clifton Units for a 500 sq. ft. wall. Straight-face: Length in ft. x height in ft. multiplied by 1.00 = number of blocks. A wall 100 ft. long and 5 ft. high = 500 sq. ft. x 1.00 = 500 Straight Clifton Units for a 500 sq. ft. wall. Beveled-face = Sq. Ft. of wall x 1.07 = Units Needed Straight-face = Sq. Ft. of wall x 1.00 = Units Needed Wall height needs to have the amount of buried block included. We suggest burying 10% of your wall height below grade with a minimum of 6 inches even on short walls. Extra blocks will need to be included if walls have step-ups and/or stairs. Ordering an extra 5% is always recommended to account for any changes during construction. When capping the top of your wall, the Step/Caps will add 3.5 inches to the height. Steps/Caps for the top of your wall - Rectangle - 16"W x 12.5"D x 3.5"H Linear ft. of the wall x.75 = Step/Caps needed. A wall 100 ft. long = 100 x.75 = 75 Step/Caps. Extra Step/Caps are required if your wall steps-up and/or steps-down. One extra Step/Cap should be included for each step-up or step-down. 42 RETAINING WALLS

43 AGGREGATE ESTIMATES FOR THE BASE COURSE, CORE FILL AND DRAINAGE ZONE Before calculating, keep in mind the following. 1. The base course should be a minimum of 24 inches wide and 6 inches deep. 2. Always core fill the Denver, Clifton and Corner Units. 3. In the Drainage Zone directly behind the blocks, install a 6 to 12 inch layer of aggregate. In the calculations below we used a 12-inch drainage zone. A. Base Course Formula Length of the wall x the height of the wall x the width of back fill = cubic ft. divided by 27 = cubic yards x 1.4 = tons of aggregate needed. For a base course 100 ft. long, 6 inches deep and 2 ft. wide your calculations would be as follows: 100 x.5 x 2 = 100 cubic ft. / 27 = 3.7 cubic yards x 1.4 = 5.18 tons of aggregate in the base course. The.5 equates to 6 inches of base. (6 / 12 =.5) B. Core Fill Formula Denver Blocks need 37 pounds of rock to fill their cores. Beveled-faced with 500 sq. ft. wall we will need 715 units. (500 x 1.43 = 715 x 37 lbs = 26,455 / 2000 = tons of core fill.) Straight-faced with 500 sq. ft. wall we will need 665 units. (500 x 1.33 = 665 x 37 lbs = 24,605 / 2000 = 12.3 tons of core fill.) Clifton Blocks need 50 pounds of rock to fill their cores. Beveled-faced with 500 sq. ft. wall we will need 535 units. (500 x 1.07 = 535 x 50 lbs = 26,750 / 2000 = tons of core fill.) Straight-faced with 500 sq. ft. wall we will need 500 units. (500 x 1 = 500 x 50 lbs = 25,000 / 2000 = 12.5 tons of core fill.) C. Drainage Zone Formula For the drainage zone on a wall 100 feet long and 5 feet tall with one foot of topsoil above the drainage zone your calculations would be as follows: 100 x 4 = 400 x 1 ft. of backfill = 400 cubic ft. / 27 = cubic yards x 1.4 = tons of aggregate behind the wall. Remember, we used 4 feet as the height because we are planning to install 1 foot of soil above the drainage zone. It is common to install 8 to 12 inches of topsoil above the drainage zone when planting softscape material. D. Add the totals of A, B and C together = Total Aggregate for a 500 sq. ft. wall. Denver Beveled Faced = 5.18 for base for core fill for drainage zone = Tons Denver Straight Faced = 5.18 for base for core fill for drainage zone = Tons Clifton Beveled Faced = 5.18 for base for core fill for drainage zone = Tons Clifton Straight Faced = 5.18 for base for core fill for drainage zone = Tons RETAINING WALLS 43

44 TUMBLED BELGIAN FREESTANDING WALL $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT (by block face) COLORS Tumbled Belgian Freestanding (large) 3-1/2" x 14" x 7" 27-3/4 lbs 2.94 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Tumbled Belgian Freestanding (medium) 3-1/2" x 8-3/4" x 7" 17 lbs 4.76 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Tumbled Belgian Freestanding (small) 3-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 7" 3 lbs Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Tumbled Belgian Freestanding (wedge) 3-1/2" x 7" x 7" 11 lbs 7.08 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Belgian Smooth 3-1/2" x 7" x 14" lbs 2.94 Quarry Gray Sienna NUMBER OF TUMBLED BELGIAN FREESTANDING LARGE WALL BLOCKS NEEDED PER WALL SECTION NO. OF COURSES WALL HEIGHT (approximate) SECTION LENGTH IN FT. 5' 10' 15' 20' 25' 30' 1 3-1/2" " /2" /2" /2" WALLS PROJECT CONSTRUCTION Prepare the Foundation A solid foundation is necessary to prevent settling and tiling of each project. We recommend using a leveling pad, unless local building code requires you to pour a concrete foundation or build another type of foundation. Tips for Building a Leveling Pad Choose the location for the completed project; place and mark the position of the base layer of blocks. Once marked, remove the blocks and the organic top soil within the marked area. If applicable to the area, create a leveling pad with a non-frost susceptible, well graded, compacted angular gravel-sand mixture. The leveling pad should be a minimum of 4 to 6 inches thick. For leveling pads greater than 8 thick, then fill material shall be placed in more than once lift. Each layer or lift of fill material shall be leveled and compacted to a 95% Standard Proctor density before moving on. Once the top layer of fill material is compacted and level, place the base layer of blocks. The base layer should sit 1 to 2 inches below grade to help further prevent shifting. Use additional fill material to level the base. FREESTANDING STRUCTURE These simple shapes of Tumbled Belgian Blocks fit together to form an attractive solution for an endless array of possible combinations - all without ever cutting a single block. Let your imagination run wild, or start with one of our professionally designed projects with complete, easy to follow instructions. See store or Menards.com for more details. PATTERN OPTIONS For a natural look, simply follow no pattern. With random placement, make sure to minimize the number of matching joints to maintain a sturdy structure.

45 $ TUMBLED CATALINA WALL PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER SQUARE FT (by block face) COLORS Tumbled Catalina Pillar 5" x 17" x 8-1/2" 55 lbs 1.69 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (special order) Tumbled Catalina Retaining 5" x 15" x 8-1/2" 39-1/2 lbs 1.92 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (special order) Tumbled Catalina Freestanding 5" x 15" x 8-1/2" 45 lbs 1.92 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan (special order) PATTERN OPTIONS For a natural look, simply follow no pattern. With random placement, make sure to minimize the number of matching joints to maintain a strong wall. SHAPES & SIZES Each pallet of Catalina contains a variety of shapes and sizes. Mixing the different shapes, and using either of the 2 finished faces will create a unique, random looking wall with minimal cutting. 15" BLOCKS Back A B C Front Each Catalina Block has two finished sides for more possible combinations. FREESTANDING WALL Catalina has two split sides allowing it to be used in freestanding walls. Freestanding walls are excellent for sitting walls, patio barriers, or fencing. See the formula to calculate the material needed for your freestanding wall project. A 20" height is ideal for most sitting wall projects. Please note that freestanding walls should not exceed 3' in height. C B B B A B Back Back Back Front Front Back B B A B B Back Front Back Front C Back A Front Front B Back B Front A Front C Front B Front B Front C Front A Front B Front B A Front Front B Front A Front C Front B Back A Front C Back B Back B Front WALL CONSTRUCTION 1. Prepare Base Trench Calculate the depth of your base trench. The base trench should be 4-6 inches deep to accommodate Paver Base material with an additional inch per foot of wall height. Sample 2' wall height: 2"+ 4-6" base material = 6-8" trench depth When building on un-level areas, prepare step downs in increments of 5". Compact and level your Paver Base. 2. Level Base Course Place the first layer of block on the prepared foundation. Use a carpenter's level in all directions and use a string line to verify straightness. Suggestion: To avoid un-straight lines, place gentle curves in the wall. Be certain the base course is level and the blocks lay flat. Have a rubber mallet handy for leveling blocks. Small handfuls of sand may be used for leveling too. 3. Stack & Fill Backfill the wall with Multi-Purpose Gravel that will let water drain through to the drain tile behind your wall. For maximum wall strength and durability, use a landscape adhesive on each course. If desired, use a standard retaining wall cap to top the wall. NOTE: Walls over 3' in height may require geogrid and our professional design service. For projects over 3', please fill out a design service quote request. WALLS 45

46 STEP BLOCKS, RETAINING WALL CAPS, PILLAR CAPS $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxD WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER LINEAR FT COLORS Step Block 3-1/2" x 16" x 12-1/2" 56 lbs (Cap) 0.75 (Step) 32" Step Quarry Gray Sienna Tan " Cap 2-3/8" x 12" x 7-1/2" XL Cap 3-1/2" x 18-1/4" x 13" 13 lbs lbs 0.8 Autumn Blend Cobalt Gray Quarry Gray Red Red/Black Sienna Tan Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Smooth Pillar Cap 2" x 12" x 24" 40 lbs Cap Covers 1.9 sq. ft. Gray " x 24" x 24" 85 lbs Cap Covers 4 sq. ft. Gray " x 27" x 27" 120 lbs Cap Covers 5.06 sq. ft. Gray CAPS

47 EDGERS $ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION HxWxL WEIGHT PER BLOCK BLOCKS PER LINEAR FT COLORS Tumbled Belgian Edger 3-1/2" x 12" x 4" Interloc Edger 3-3/8" x 11-3/4" x 3-3/8" 13-1/4 lbs 1 10 lbs 1.02 Autumn Blend Quarry Gray Sienna Tan Gray Red Red/Black Tan Cobble Edger 3-7/16" x 11-13/16" x 3-3/4" 12 lbs 1.02 Sienna Crescent Edger 2-3/8" x 5-3/4" x 4-3/8" 5 lbs 2.82 Red Tan Scalloped Edger (Straight) 6" x 24" x 2" 22 lbs 0.50 Gray Red Tan Scalloped Edger (Curved) 6" x 24" x 2" 23 lbs 0.50 Gray Red Tan EDGERS 47

48 INSTALLING EDGERS Step 1 - Stake out & remove sod Begin by staking out the project. For curved sections use a garden hose to lay out the edging line. The depth of the trench is dependent upon how far above grade you want your edger units to appear. Step 2 - Clear areas of debris Prepare trench by removing roots and rocks. Smooth and place 1" of paver base in the bottom of the trench. Step 3 - Lay & level edgers Place edgers end to end in the base. Using a rubber mallet, tamp the edgers firmly iinto place. Continue to place edgers until the desired length of the project is finished. Using a level will help ensure your edgers are uniformly level. Step 4 - Cut edgers Edgers may be cut easily to finish the end of a run by using a circular saw with a masonry blade. A hammer and chisel may also be used to cut edgers. Finish your project by raking the rock, mulch or dirt to the inside edge of the edgers. 48

49 Paver Installation Steps Paver Base / Step 1 Leveling Sand / Step 2 Paver Locking Sand / Step 3 Install pavers over a firm, stable base using one of the four installation diagrams shown below. If installing Paver Locking Sand on a non-drainage bed system, there must be a slope to avoid water pooling on the pavers. Paver Locking sand is the 3rd part of a 3-step standard installation system when installing pavers or patio blocks. By using Step 1 Paver Base, Step 2 Leveling Sand, and Step 3 Paver Locking Sand you will achieve the best results. Paver surface must be dry and clean prior to application of Step 3 Paver Locking Sand to prevent materials from adhering to and hardening on top of the pavers. Installation Options 49

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52 MIDWEST MANUFACTURING CONCRETE BLOCK OUR GUARANTEE Midwest Manufacturing is dedicated to offering the highest quality concrete products, to all of our guests. All of our interlocking concrete pavers, concrete bricks, retaining walls, and masonry block, meet or exceed ASTM C-936, ASTM C /C55-09, ASTM C-1372, and ASTM C-90 specifications, respectively. Midwest Manufacturing guarantees its concrete products against manufacturing defects for as long as you own your home. This guarantee will be honored with proof of purchase. Midwest Manufacturing takes pride in offering our products to the do-it-yourself-er and contractor alike. We do not require professional installation, however we do recommend it. Basic installation practices, available at must be followed. Midwest Manufacturing s obligation is limited to replacement of the defective product only. Midwest Manufacturing will not be responsible for lost time, replacement labor, or any other commensurate costs associated with replacement. The guarantee does not apply to product damage caused by impact, improper installation, excessive load, or salt application. Color matching can not be guaranteed. Efflorescence is a natural and temporary occurrence Midwest Manufacturing cannot be held responsible. - Not all blocks are stocked in all locations. - All block sizes given are nominal, sizes may vary within a given tolerance. - Some items are only available special order. Special orders may require a packaging/handling fee. Special orders ship in approximately one week. - It is recommended that you purchase enough material to complete your entire project. Color will vary slightly from lot to lot, so materials purchased at a later date may not be a perfect color match. - Hazy white or chalky looking surfaces are due to efflorescence. Efflorescence is a natural process which can occur as concrete cures. Efflorescence is temporary and not considered a manufacturing defect

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