CIRCULARITY AS A SYSTEM TEXTILE EXCHANGE ANNUAL CONFERENCE OCTOBER 5, 2016

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1 October 4-7, 2016

2 Moderator: Jeff Wilson, Director- Business Value Strategy & Development, Textile Exchange CIRCULARITY AS A SYSTEM TEXTILE EXCHANGE ANNUAL CONFERENCE OCTOBER 5, 2016 Nicole Bassett, Co-Founder, The Renewal Workshop Speakers: Maura Dilley, Community of Practice Manager, Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Christin Gloeckner, Team Management R&D, Hohenstein Institute

3 TODAY S AGENDA: - INTRODUCTION AND TOPIC FRAMING - PANELIST PRESENTATIONS - PANEL DISCUSSION/AUDIENCE Q&A - HANDS-ON INTERACTIVE EXERCISE

4 TODAY S OBJECTIVES: - INFORM ABOUT CIRCULAR SYSTEMS AND CONCEPTS - UNDERSTAND CURRENT DEVELOPMENTS AND OPPORTUNITIES - BE AWARE OF KEY OBSTACLES AND CHALLENGES - INSPIRE TO MAKE CHANGE AT YOUR ORGANIZATION NOW AND IN THE FUTURE

5 Backdrop the Textile Industry Value Network Raw material suppliers Spinners Weavers & Knitters Dyers, Printers, Finishers, & Laminators Materials Converter Finished Goods Assemblers (+ Trims) Agents & Trading Companies Brands Retailers Brands with Strong Retail Could be any combination of organizations upstream in the supply chain to produce finished materials mega cut/sew x1000s Polymers, Fertilizers, Pesticides, Impurities etc. Lubricants, Dyes, Auxiliaries, etc. Sizing agents, Preparation agents, Carriers, etc. mega factory complex from greige to garment Dyes, Dyestuff auxiliaries, Coatings, Repellents, etc. Detergents, Conditioning agents, Treatments, etc. mega trading company Chemical Converter and/or Trader Large retailer w/ private brand(s) Chemical blender/mixer Chemical synthesizer Raw chemical supplier o Originally created by Matt Thurston, REI with further modifications by Kevin Myette, bluesign

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7 EVOLVING TO A CIRCULAR, NETWORK BASED SYSTEM THAT WE RE HERE TO INFORM ABOUT AND ADVOCATE FOR

8 CIRCULAR ECONOMY & FASHION POSITIVE Maura Dilley Fashion Positive Community Manager

9 OUR TEAM Lewis Perkins President Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Annie Gullingsrud Director of Fashion & Textiles Sector Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Maura Dilley Fashion Positive Community Manager Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Laurin Guthrie Materials Assistant Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute Kika Hazan Administrative Assistant Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute

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11 SUSTAINABLE, TAKE BACK, CLOSED LOOP Brands Suppliers

12 CIRCULAR APPAREL Collection + Sorting Chemical companies Brands Schools + Universities Supportive policy Foundations Logistics Piloting partners Designers Funders Suppliers Spinners Fiber producers Innovators / Material developers

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14 WASTE IS DESIGNED OUT Optimize resource yields by circulating products, components, and materials at the highest utility at all times in both technical and biological cycles.

15 The Ellen MacArthur Foundation works to inspire a generation to rethink, re-design and build a positive future circular economy.

16 DIVERSITY BUILDS STRENGTH Circular economies needs a balance of various scales of businesses to thrive in the long term.

17 PRODUCT OWNERSHIP BECOMES SERVICE LEASING

18 OPTIMIZE RESOURCE YIELDS Optimize resource yields by circulating products, components, and materials at the highest utility at all times in both technical and biological cycles.

19 ELIMINATE ENVIRONMENTAL DEGRADATION Identify and eliminate harvesting or manufacturing processes that degrade, destroy or permanently diminish natural resources.

20 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY RUNS ON RENEWABLE ENERGY AND SOCIAL FAIRNESS Circular economies needs a balance of various scales of businesses to thrive in the long term.

21 SYSTEMS THINKING IS APPLIED BROADLY IN THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY In order to effectively transition to the circular economy, links and consequences within and across systems are always taken into consideration.

22 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY MEANS TRUE COST ACCOUNTING Prices and other feedback mechanisms should reflect true costs.

23 CRADLE TO CRADLE CERTIFIED The Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard rates products across five quality categories: RENEWABLE ENERGY MATERIAL HEALTH Select materials known to be safe for humans and the environment. MATERIAL REUSE Identify where the product and the materials it s made of go after use. Power industry with renewable energy. CLEAN WATER Treat water as a precious resource and clean water as an essential human right. SOCIAL FAIRNESS Honor all natural systems and the people involved in creating products.

24 MATERIAL HEALTH Identify materials as either biological or technical nutrients Understand how chemical hazards combine with likely exposures to determine potential threats to human health and the environment certified

25 MATERIAL REUTILIZATION Maximize the percentage of rapidly renewable materials or recycled content used in a product Maximize the percentage of materials that can be safely reused, recycled, or composted at the product s end of use

26 RECYCLED FIBERS Using recycled fibers achieves ecological benefits: 1. It slows the depletion of virgin natural resources. 2. It reduces textile waste building in landfills. 3. Recycled textiles have the potential to ease the pressure industrialized farming places on the land to yield more virgin fiber. 4. It s just smart!

27 MECHANICAL RECYCLING A process that involves chopping the fibers, blending them with virgin fiber and respinning them to form new yarns. Mechanical recycling exists NOW Turns waste materials into yarns for new garments Most inputs for recycled polyester come from PET bottles Downcycled

28 RECYCLING CHALLENGES FOR CIRCULAR FASHION While most fibers are technically recyclable, there are few existing technologies to actually recycle them. Blended fibers can only be downcycled. We cycle contaminants with the fibers. Mechanical recycling cannot process out contaminants which then move into subsequent generations.

29 CLEAN IN, CLEAN OUT Circular fashion is not possible without circular materials.

30 CHEMICAL RECYCLING A process that takes biological, technical or blended fibers back to their original constituent chemical parts. In development Can recreate virgin quality fibers. Potential for closed system for chemicals. Potential for scalability and high volume. Opportunity to separate out contaminants and additives. Potential for separation of blended fibers. Recycling back to raw materials that enables fibers to be made again.

31 COLLABORATE TO CIRCULATE: Fashion Positive PLUS PLUS is a community of pioneering brands, designers and suppliers collaborating to catalyze systems change in fashion industry by transforming one material at a time. Collaborate to identify shared interest and priorities Collaborate to accelerate and scale material innovations and technologies (i.e. Chemical recycling)

32 COLLABORATE TO CIRCULATE

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34 The apparel industry is linear. Clothing is designed for use, not for recycling.

35 Higg Index score End of Use Resource Efficiency Reduce Landfill Future feedstock from old clothes New Business Opportunities Industry Pressure Customer Pressure

36 Brand

37 MATERIALS FLOW PHYSICAL INFORMATIONAL

38 CREATING A CIRCULAR SYSTEM

39 EPA Waste Hierarchy Ellen Macarthur Foundation

40 Maximizing Value Renew Reuse Recycle

41 Post Customer Supply Chain

42 What was once thought of as trash can be refurbished to become a New Consumer Product Category RENEWED APPAREL

43 @RenewalWorkshop

44 FOUNDING PARTNERS

45 COMMERCIAL LAUNCH August October 2016 November Opportunity to pre-order Renewed Apparel TRW online marketplace goes live to sell Renewed Apparel

46 Informational Flows Brands Upcycle/ Recycle/ Downcycle supply chain

47 Understanding Recycling % Cashmere 100% Cotton 100% Nylon 100% Organic Cotton 100% Polyester 100% Wool Unknown 2 or More Combined

48 The circular economy happens here. CLOTHING CONTINUOUSLY REMADE

49 New approaches towards a sustainable textile industry of tomorrow B. Eng. Christin Glöckner Textile Exchange Circular Economy COMPETENCE IN TEXTILES

50 No. 50 William Küster Institute for Hygiene, Environment & Medicine

51 No. 51 We are interested in interactions & implications product humans

52 No. 52 We are interested in interactions & implications product environment

53 No. 54 Life cycle assessment in the textile chain Distribution Retail Manufacture Usage Fiber production Disposal Return

54 No. 55 Small sustainability biodegradation Big Small

55 No. 56 At the end of the life cycle Evaluation of biodegradability and deterioration of fabrics (apparel, technical textiles) and biopolymers Testing the biodegradation under standardized lab or outdoor conditions Biodegradation vs. composting Analysis of degradation products Environmental impact

56 No. 57 Standardized evaluation of biodegradation Method: Soil burial test Material degrading by living micro-organisms in the soil Excavation and evaluation of visible residues Evaluation of the environmental impacts of residues in soil Soil burial Visual evaluation (here after 6, 8,10 weeks)

57 No. 58 Soil burial under lab conditions Comparative assessment technical report: Defined burial time Calculation of the mass change Visual assessment of the material Laboratory examinations (residues, cress growth) Mass degradation [% weight] Ecotoxicology: Water/earth organisms, plants

58 No. 59 Outdoor soil burial tests Realistic assessment, sustainable discharge Learning characteristics of "decay properties Product optimization and determination of risks Following principles of EN ISO : 2001/04 EN ISO 846: 1997/06 DIN EN 13432: 2000/12

59 No. 60 Future prospects Sustainability solution specifically for your products Ensure the sustainable disposal of products Environmental safety

60 No. 61 New products for bioeconomy Product innovation environmental dalphin pile ( Bark mulch meets wools ) Life cycle assessment based of 3R principle Raw materials: vegetabiles, sheep wool Production: environmentally friendly End of life - zero waste

61 No. 62 Thank you for your kind attention! If you have any questions - please feel free to contact us Christin Glöckner Hohenstein Institute Schloss Hohenstein Bönnigheim Telefon Fax C.Gloeckner@hohenstein.de

62 October 4-7, 2016