Does the environment suffer for human vanity?

Transcription

1 Does the environment suffer for human vanity? Ecotoxicological aspects of cosmetic products Anna Sobek Department of Applied Environmental Science (ITM) Stockholm University

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3 Chemicals in cosmetic products - a problem to the environment? not just one kind of chemical.. Dyes Preservatives Perfumes or fragrances Antibacterial agents UV-filters Thickeners

4 Chemicals in cosmetic products - a problem to the environment? not just one kind of chemical.. Not possible to give a generalised answer

5 Problem: regulation concerning environmental risk unclear The product is regulated by the the Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR) - Focus on human health and NOT environment The chemical (contained in a cosmetic product) should be regulated by REACH - Risks for the environment should be assessed - Complicated and not clear how/if this will work

6 Chemicals in cosmetic products Is this an issue for the environment do we need to worry?

7 Yes this is an issue! Chemicals in cosmetic products can be an environmental concern Persistence BCF Toxicity Endocrine disrupting T 1/2 freshwater L/kg Acute LC 50 mg/l Benzophenone Preservative yes Butylated hydroxyanisole Preservative yes Butylated hydroxy toluene Preservative no data Diethyl phtalate Fragrance yes Octyl methoxycinnamate UV-filter yes Butyl paraben Preservative yes Siloxane Emolient yes Titanium dioxide UV-filter no data no data Triclosan Anti-microbial yes Nano zincoxide UV-filter no data no data 0.62 no data Dhanirama, Gronow and Voulvoulis, 2012

8 Siloxanes cvms cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes (D4, D5, D6) High-volume chemicals Used in personal care products (deodorants, creams etc), biomedical products, consumer products (car polish and waxes)

9 Emissions of siloxane D5 from use of Personal Care Products 10% to wastewater 90% to air

10 D5 concentrations measured in air at a rural site in Sweden Kierkegaard, McLachlan. 2013

11 D5 fate in air D5 is found in background air is subject to long-range atmospheric transport has little interaction with the other environmental compartments (i.e. a flyer) is removed relatively rapidly from the atmosphere No big problem from an ecotoxicology perspective McLachlan et al., Environ. Sci. Technol. 44,

12 Fate of D5 from Personal Care Products 10% to wastewater 1% to recipient 90% to air

13 Sediment and perch from Swedish lakes

14 D5 in sediment increases with STP load Kierkegaard, Bignert, McLachlan. 2013

15 D5 in perch correlates to D5 in sediment Kierkegaard, Bignert, McLachlan

16 D5 also in Baltic Sea herring Kierkegaard, Bignert, McLachlan

17 D5 biomagnify in aquatic food webs Borgå, K., Fjeld, E., Kierkegaard, A. and McLachlan, M.S TMF = trophic magnification factor TMF > 1 = biomagnification Lake Mjösa in Norway

18 Conclusions D5 in water Contamination of aquatic environment via atmosphere is low Contamination of aquatic environment related to STP effluent D5 emissions to water lead to contamination of biota throughout the Baltic Biomagnification occurs No evidence on toxicity of D5

19 UV-filters Used in cosmetic products to protect the human skin from UV radiation The Chemical Products Regulation contains a list of 28 UV-filters that are approved for use in sunscreen products on the EU market

20 UV-filters are found in the environment UV-filters are detected in surface waters, sediment and biota STPs and sunscreens used at beaches are the main pathways to the aquatic environment

21 UV-filters approved for use in the EU Not toxic 7% Very toxic to aquatic life 29% May cause longlasting effects to aquatic life 43% Sobek, Bejgarn, Rudén, Molander and Breitholtz, 2013 Toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects 21%

22 UV-filters -illustrate inconsistencies in EU legislation UV-filters have environmentally hazardous properties Sunscreens containing UV-filters are regulated by CPR Risk to human health is considered! Uncertain how/if risk to the environment is considered! NO hazardous classification or labelling (CLP)

23 UV-filters -illustrate inconsistencies in EU legislation UV-filters in a paint are regulated by REACH Risk to the environment is considered! If classified as hazardous it is labelled

24 Fragrances Organic compounds widely used in personal-care products Primary route to the environment is through down-the-drain disposal of the product Obvious that fragrances are important to us!

25 Fragrances are found in wastewater, in Europe and the USA. found in aquatic biota (mussels, clams, fish, seals, otters, dolphins )

26 Essential oils used in fragrance materials Essential oils are complex mixtures that include both volatile and labile chemicals Mixtures of substances derived from plants Under REACH: essential oils are registered as natural complex substances (NCS) REACH requires P, B, T assessments

27 Risk assessment of essential oils Difficult! - Not possible to maintain a stable concentration in water during an experiment Volatilise Degrade Sorb/bind to surfaces

28 Processes in the STP VOLATILIZATION IN SEDIMENTATION DEGRADATION OUT SLUDGE These processes also occur in the environment, where also bioaccumulation can take place

29 Use the STP concept as a way to assess persistence P of essential oils A mass balance: what comes in and what goes out Elimination rates, persistence Lab-based STP Macleod, Radke, McLachlan et al. ongoing ITM

30 Bioaccumulation experiments: spike the feed with essential oils Monitor the elimination of the substances over time Bioaccumulation can be calculated Macleod, Radke, McLachlan et al. ongoing ITM

31 A tiered method for P and B assessment of essential oils PERSISTENCE BIOACCUMULATION Macleod, Radke, McLachlan et al. ongoing ITM

32 Summary Chemicals in cosmetic products are diverse and cannot be generalised as a group BUT many of them do pose a risk to the environment - Are hazardous to aquatic life - Are persistent - Are bioaccumulating

33 For the future Legislation and implementation of current legislation is the way to move forward

34 Thank you for your attention!