Wood-based Fibres for Fashion

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1 Wood-based Fibres for Fashion Forests for Fashion - Fashion for Forests, organized by UNECE and FAO Geneva, 21 March 214 Prof. Martin K. Patel Chair for Energy Efficiency University of Geneva Institute for Environmental Sciences, Forel Institute, Energy Group martin.patel@unige.ch Formerly: Utrecht University, Copernicus Institute of Sustainable Development, Utrecht, Netherlands 1

2 World fibre production 35, 3, 25, World fibre production (kton) Cotton Synthetic (petro-based) Man-made cellulose fibres * 2, 15, 1, 5,

3 Lenzing Viscose/Modal and Tencel 212a & b et al., 212 c

4 What is Life Cycle Assessment? (LCA)

5 Net Greenhouse Gas Emissions (t CO 2 eq./t fibre) Cradle-to-factory gate plus post-consumer waste incineration with energy recovery GHG emissions from waste incineration (energy recovery rate: 6%) Net GWP lower range Net GWP higher range Cradle-to-factory gate GWP (including carbon sequestration) Cotton: Cotton (US&CN) PET (W.Europe) PP (W.Europe) PLA fibre, without wind PLA fibre, with wind Lenzing Viscose Asia Tencel, Austria Tencel, Austria, Lenzing Modal Lenzing Viscose Austria 212a & b et al., 212 c

6 Tencel, Austria 212 Single-score result (I) Equally weighted, Cotton =1 1 tonne fibre, cradle-to-factory gate Single score points, equal weighting (no normalisation, Cotton =1) Lenzing Viscose Asia Cotton (US&CN) PET fibre (W.EU) PP fibre (W.EU) Tencel, Austria Lenzing Modal Lenzing Viscose Austria -2 Global warming Abiotic depletion Ozone layer depletion Human toxicity Fresh water ecotoxicity Terrestrial ecotoxicity Photochemical oxidation Acidification Eutrophication Land use Water use 212a & b et al., 212 c

7 Single-score result (II) Equally weighted, normalised to World tonne fibre, from cradle to factory gate, cotton =1 Single-score result, equal weighting points (first normalised to World 1995) Cotton (US&CN) Lenzing Viscose Asia PET fibre (W.EU) PP fibre (W.EU) Tencel, Austria CML Normalisation factors (global impact per year) World, 1995 Global warming Global warming Abiotic (kg depletion CO 2 eq.) Abiotic depletion Ozone (kg layer Sb depletion eq.) Human toxicity Human toxicity (kg 1,4 DB eq.) Fresh water ecotoxicity Fresh water Terrestrial ecotoxicity ecotoxicity (kg 1,4DB eq.) Terrestrial Photochemical ecotoxicity (kg 1,4 oxidation DB eq.) Acidification Photochemical oxidation (kg C Eutrophication 2 H 4 eq.) Acidification (kg SO 2 eq.) Eutrophication (kg PO 3-4 eq.) Lenzing Modal Lenzing Viscose Austria Tencel, Austria x x x x x x x x a & b et al., 212 c

8 Single-score result (III) NOGEPA weighting factors (normalised to world) 1 tonne fibre, cradle-to-factory gate, cotton =1 1 g p (First normalised to World 1995) Global warming Abiotic depletion Ozone layer depletion Human toxicity Fresh water ecotoxicity Terrestrial ecotoxicity Photochemical oxidation Acidification Eutrophication Weighting factors (NOGEPA) Climate Change 32 Abiotic depletion* 8 Ozone layer depletion 5 Human toxicity 16 Fresh water ecotoxicity 6 Terrestrial ecotoxicity 5 Photochemical oxidation 8 Acidification 6 Eutrophication 13 Total 99 Cotton (US&CN) Lenzing Viscose Asia PET fibre (W.EU) PP fibre (W.EU) Tencel, Austria Lenzing Modal Lenzing Viscose Austria Tencel, Austria a & b et al., 212 c