Gwen Cunningham, Lead Circle Textiles Programme

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2 Gwen Cunningham, Lead Circle Textiles Programme

3 OUR MEMBERS KNOWLEDGE PARTNERS

4 PRACTICAL, SCALABLE Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

5 CIRCLE FINANCE

6 CIRCLE CITIES Accelerating the transition towards liveable and waste free cities

7 CIRCLE TEXTILES Towards a zero waste Industry

8 A LINEAR ECONOMIC SYSTEM

9 TAKE MAKE DISPOSE

10 WASTE IS NOTHING MORE THEN A FAILED RELATIONSHIP Jonathan Chapman

11 PERCEIVED OBSOLESCENCE & PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE 1955, Throwaway Living

12 Our enormously productive economy demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption... we need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever-accelerating rate." Victor Lebow, 1955

13 HYPER-CONSUMPTION Garment production doubled The annual number of garments purchased increased by 60% Consumers keep clothing items ½ as long as they did 15 years ago. McKinsey/BOF 2016

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15 POST-INDUSTRIAL PRE-CONSUMER POST-CONSUMER 10-15% UP TO 30% 20M EU & US

16 UNSUSTAINABLE FUTURE GROWTH Population CO2 Concentration Ozone depletion Water use Species extinction Northern Hemisphere average surface temperature Foreign investment Loss of tropical rainforest & woodland Fisheries exploited GDP Paper Use Motor vehicles Source: Adapted from: The New Scientist. WRI, WHO, World Bank, OECD Factbook

17 VOLATILE RESOURCE PRICES The value of the circular economy INCREASING CONSUMER DEMAND 2016: 7.3 Billion 2030: 8.5 Billion 2050: 9.7 Billion BALLOONING POPULATION

18 UNPREDICTABLE CLIMATE CLIMATE CHANGE

19 GEO-POLITICAL INSTABILITY

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22 Source: Aaron Tiley

23 A LINEAR ECONOMIC SYSTEM

24 A CIRCULAR ECONOMIC SYSTEM

25 1. 1. Transitioning to a Circular Textiles Industry will allow us to: Capture the inherent value of textiles 2. Our Mission: 2. Displace the virgin fibre industry upstream To create 3. a zero 3. Reduce waste texties the volume industry, of textile and close waste the downstream loop for fashion

26 REPAIR AND WARRANTY Source : Nudie Jeans

27 REUSE Source :Filippa K

28 ACCESS OVER OWNERSHIP Source : Pimkie

29 CLOSED LOOP Source : Recover

30 REVERSE LOGISTICS & TAKE -BACK Source: Repack

31 THE SYSTEM BARRIERS Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

32 SORTING TECHNOLOGIES Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

33 THE FIBERSORT An automated NIRpowered technology that sorts garments based on fibre composition.

34 THE RECOVERY TECHNOLOGY Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

35 CHEMICAL RECYCLING Feedstock: Chief value cotton/ cellulosics Chief value polyester Polycotton blends Pros: Virgin quality output Separates contaminants Cons: Needs further investment / R&D Source : Levi and EvRnu

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37 MECHANICAL RECYCLING Source : Recover Feedstock Chief value cotton 100% polyester Blends into lower quality yarn Pros: Available now Maintains cotton properties Cons: Colour/origin of feedstock Fibre degradation

38 THE ENVIRONMENTAL & BUSINESS CASE Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

39 HIGH VALUE RECYCLING

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41 CIRCLE FASHION TOOL

42 REGULATIONS & INCENTIVES Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

43 MITIGATING CLIMATE CHANGE WITH CIRCULAR STRATEGIES

44 EXTENDED PRODUCER RESPONSIBILITY Mandatory EPR Voluntary collective EPR Business model support Source: Filippa K

45 THE PARTNERSHIPS Our Mission: To create a zero waste texties industry, and close the loop for fashion

46 CIRCLE market A global, online marketplace for the recovery, reuse and resale of materials. Brands, retailers and manufacturers post their waste. Collectors, sorters and recyclers buy it.

47 4-STEP JOURNEY TO CIRCULARITY LINEAR TAKE MAKE DISPOSE CIRCULAR 1. SOURCE Be the demand! 2. DESIGN Design out waste! 3. TAKE-BACK Be the supply! Analyse collections to identify key product groups (bestsellers / neverout-of-stock) that are suitable to convert to recycled content. Integrate methods of design for longlife and/or design for cyclability, to ensure the optimum cycling of your products. Take responsibility for the afterlife of your product and give back to the system via open or closed loop takeback schemes. 4. INVEST & COLLABORATE Build the infrastructure! Work with innovation partners to optimise circular infrastructures, develop critical technologies and jointly overcome systems barriers.

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49 THANK YOU 49