1 INTRODUCTION 2 MOTIVATION FOR THE PRESENT EXPERIMENT. Dynamics of the Salt-Freshwater Mixing Zone in Ocean Beaches. N. Cartwright 1 and P.

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1 Second International Conference on Saltwater Intrusion and Coastal Aquifers Monitoring, Modeling, and Management. Mérida, Mexico, March 3 April, 3 Dynamics of the Salt-Freshwater Mixing Zone in Ocean Beaches N. Cartwright and P. Nielsen Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Australia ABSTRACT Field observations of the surficial, salt-freshwater mixing zone (SFMZ) in a natural beach over a 5-day, neap to spring tidal period are presented and discussed. The SFMZ is seen to respond only slightly to the neap to spring tidal cycle. The dynamics of the SFMZ during the sampling period are dominated by forcing from a large wave event (H sig ~.5m) which occurred during the sampling period at neap tide. The resultant groundwater pulse caused the 5% of seawater salinity contour to move landward by about 5m and then, once the wave forcing decreased, gradually move seaward to its quasi-steady starting location, despite the approaching spring tide. It is concluded that wave-driven, and more importantly, storm surge driven groundwater pulses are the primary mechanism behind SFMZ fluctuations. The implications of this finding are far reaching when considering coastal water resources and quality, contaminant fate and ecology. INTRODUCTION Coastlines around the world are home to much of the world s population and therefore water resources in these regions are subject to intensive stresses and demands. Salt-water intrusion into coastal aquifers is a well researched topic because of this. Typically, the phenomena of salt-water intrusion has been studied and modelled at catchment scales where the simplifying assumptions of a static and sharp salty-freshwater interface and a mean sea level boundary condition are made. Recently some consideration has been given to the small scale dynamics that occur where the salty ocean water meets the fresher groundwater in beaches [e.g. Nielsen and Voisey, 998; Nielsen, 999; Cartwright and Nielsen, a,b; Turner and Acworth, in preparation]. Understanding of such dynamics will have implications for interstitial biology and chemistry in beaches [e.g. Moore, 999; Li et al, ]. The hydrodynamics of beach groundwater are the result of highly complex forcing from the oceans tides and waves which vary at several different frequencies. Individual contributions to the hydrodynamics are not easily resolved [e.g. Nielsen, 999] and, to the knowledge of the authors, their influence on the dynamics of the SFMZ has yet to be addressed. This paper will present field observations and address the question of what is the dominant control on the dynamics of the SFMZ in beaches. MOTIVATION FOR THE PRESENT EXPERIMENT Here we very briefly summarise the early findings of this research described in more detail by Cartwright and Nielsen [a,b] who monitored salinity depth profiles in a natural beach for a total duration of 5 hours, i.e. over two complete tidal cycles. Figure (a) shows the deposition of a salty layer on top of the underlying fresh aquifer water as a direct result of wave runup infiltration (the maximum runup limit transgressed the SFMZ). The location of the SFMZ, depicted here by the 5% of seawater salinity contour, does not

2 respond to an individual tidal cycle but is forced landward by a combination of the increasing tidal range, wave height and infiltration of wave runup. From these findings, Cartwright and Nielsen [a,b] suggest that the SFMZ may respond on a time scale more in line with the neap to spring tidal period of days. These findings provided the motivation to conduct similar experiments over a longer sampling period. The follow up experiment and results are described in the following section. Elevation [m] High Tide Low Tide Topography 39hrs Runup Limit High Tide hrs 58hrs 6hrs ---- ½C SEA Distance from mean shoreline [m] Waves Tide Figure : (a) Evolution of the 5% of seawater salinity contour in a natural beach. (b) Wave and tide data for the sampling period, sampling times are denoted by ( ). Plots from Cartwright and Nielsen, b. 3 DYNAMICS OF THE SALT-FRESHWATER MIXING ZONE 3. Experiment description The field site is located at Brunswick Heads, just north of Byron Bay in northern New South Wales, Australia. The experimental transect is across a coastal barrier type system, bounded by the Coral Sea on one side and a Brunswick River tributary running parallel to the ocean shore. Its width is 5m from ocean to estuary (c.f. Figure 3 (a)).. Piezometers were used to monitor head levels near the water table and depth profiles of the salinity structure were obtained using clusters of hollow, stainless-steel sampling spears. The experiment duration was 5 days with water levels monitored manually during salinity profiling which occurred at least once a day. 3. Aquifer forcing Figure shows the ocean climate leading up to and during the experiment with panel (a) showing the tidal regime to cycle from spring through neap and back to spring. The wave climate shown in panel (b) shows a significant wave event early on in the sampling period (at neap tide) that lasted for a duration of to 3 days and peaked at H sig ~.5m. The resultant groundwater pulse is clearly apparent in panel (c) where the level at the seaward boundary of the SFMZ increases by m. Rainfall effects were deemed to be insignificant with reference to the observations of Nielsen [999] from a similar barrier system where he deduced a freshwater lens response time to be in the order of to 3 months. The present site is slightly larger in scale and as such its response time is likely to be no less than 3 months. Rainfall data from a

3 rain gauge km from the present site in the months preceding the experiment show no significant (magnitude or duration) rainfall events. Elevation [m AHD] - Tide Height [m] Wave Height - H sig Elevation [m AHD].5 Groundwater Levels Sea bound of SWI (x = -5.6m) Land bound of SWI (x =.m) Date - Nov/Dec, Figure : (a) and (b) The wave and tide climate prior to and during the two week sampling period, the symbols ( ) indicate SFMZ sampling times. (c) The groundwater levels observed at both the seaward ( ), and landward ( ) boundaries of the SFMZ. 3.3 Observed Salt-freshwater Mixing Zone Dynamics Figure 3 (a) indicates the location of the SFMZ (c.f. sampling locations) to again be situated near the base of the fore dune scarp (the maximum high water mark) on the ocean beach [c.f. Cartwright and Nielsen, a,b]. The effect of the wave generated groundwater pulse on the SFMZ is illustrated in the evolution of the 5% seawater salinity contour in Figure 3 (b) and (c). The contour is forced landward by about 5m as a direct result of the groundwater pulse. Once the wave forcing decreased the contour gradually moved seaward and despite the approaching spring tide, continued to move seaward until it settled at its quasi-steady, starting position. These findings make it clear that wave forcing is the dominant driver behind fluctuations in the SFMZ. Only a moderate wave forcing event was captured here, if we were to consider a much larger and longer oceanic storm surge (e.g. cyclone/hurricane forced surges) the consequences for the SFMZ and beach face chemistry and biology become much more important. Here we have only used the 5% of seawater salinity contour to illustrate the SFMZ dynamics and in doing so have overlooked the internal mixing processes (e.g. dispersive mixing) that are likely to occur under such forcing. It is these details that will be a focus of future work. 3

4 (a) Max RUL Max WT Min WT Sampling Locations (b).5 (c).5 Nov 3 Nov 3 Nov 3 Dec Figure 3: (a) Experimental layout and maximum and minimum water table profiles during the sampling period. (b) and (c) evolution of the 5% of seawater salinity contour. Panel (b) shows the contour on the / ( ), / (---), / ( ) and 3/ ( ). Panel (c) shows contour on the 3/ ( ), / (---), 6/ ( ) and 3/ ( ). CONCLUSIONS Data on the dynamics of the SFMZ have been presented. The results indicate that a wave generated groundwater pulse is the primary mechanism that drives SFMZ fluctuations. Both tidal and neap to spring tidal cycles are seen to have relatively little or no effect on SFMZ dynamics. These findings become even more important for coastal water resources if we are to consider more extreme oceanic forcing such as a cyclone generated storm surge. Acknowledgements This work has been supported by the Collaborative Research Centre (CRC) for Sustainable Tourism as project number 5. Tide, wave and rainfall data is kindly provided by the New South Wales Department of Public Works and Services' Manly Hydraulics Laboratory for NSW Department of Land and Water Conservation. References Cartwright, N. and Nielsen, P. (a) Groundwater Dynamics and Salinity in Coastal Barriers. Proc. st Intl. Conf. on Salt Water Intrusion and Coastal Aquifers - Monitoring, Modeling and Management., Essaouira, Morocco, April 3-5, CD- ROM.

5 Cartwright, N. and Nielsen, P. (b) Groundwater Dynamics and Salinity in Beaches. Proc. Coasts and Ports, 5th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference, Gold Coast, Australia., September 5-8, pp -6. Kang H-Y., et al., (99) Field measurements of wave runup and the beach watertable. Report CE8, Dept. of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, p. Turner I. and Acworth R. I., (in preparation) Field measurements of Beachface Salinity Structure using Cross-Borehole Resistivity Imaging. Journal of Coastal Research. Li L., et al. () Effects of Near-shore Groundwater Circulation on Aerobic Biodegradation in Coastal Unconfined Aquifers. Proc. st Intl. Conf. on Salt Water Intrusion and Coastal Aquifers - Monitoring, Modeling and Management, Essaouira, Morocco, April 3-5, CD-ROM. Moore W. S., (999) The subterranean estuary: a reaction zone of ground water and sea water. Marine Chemistry. Vol. 65, pp -5. Nielsen P. and Voisey C. J., (998) Watertable overheights and salinity in coastal barriers: Field measurements. Report CH9/98, Dept. of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, 9p. Nielsen P., (999) Groundwater Dynamics and Salinity in Coastal Barriers. Journal of Coastal Research. Vol. 5, No. 3, pp Keywords: salt-freshwater mixing zone, salinity dynamics, beach groundwater, tides, wave runup, infiltration. Corresponding author: Nick Cartwright, PhD Candidate, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St. Lucia, 7, Australia. nick.cartwright@uq.edu.au 5

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