How collective action on sustainable chemical management is shaping the future of textile and leather supply chains

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1 How collective action on sustainable chemical management is shaping the future of textile and leather supply chains Dr Christina Raab ZDHC Foundation Istanbul, Sept 25, 2018

2 Some challenges are too big to be faced alone Transforming an industry requires - Collaboration - Transparency - Commitment Image: Greenpeace

3 Taking a pragmatic approach to an industry challenge: Balancing aspirational goals & manufacturing reality Reactive (product) compliance Pro-active supply chain management Consumer protection focus Environmental protection focus Fragmented regulation One aligned, global framework 03

4 04

5 Driving sustainable chemical management best practices in the textile, apparel, footwear, leather value chains through - Collaborative engagement - Standard Setting - Implementation - Innovation

6 The ZDHC Foundation Programme, Academy, HUB The Roadmap to Zero Programme The ZDHC Implementation HUB Developing guidelines and tools for the industry Building capacity of the value chains Scaling adoption and innovation 06

7 A holistic systems approach to Sustainable Chemical Management INPUT PROCESS OUTPUT 07

8 A holistic approach INPUT management ZDHC MRSL ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance ZDHC Gateway - Chemical Module 08

9 Standard for management of input chemistry ZDHC MRSL / version 2.0 to be release in Q MRSL for Textiles and Coated Fabrics Processing & Leather Processing List of chemical substances banned from intentional use in facility Proactive chemicals management in supply chain Starting point for safer chemistry innovation 09

10 ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module THE world s largest database of safer and innovative chemistry for the leather, textile, apparel and footwear industry

11 We Trust Formulators add data about their company and products. Level 3 Level 2 Level 1 Level 0 ZDHC accepted 3rd party Certification standards.. but Verify ZDHC verifies this information with relevant Certification Companies. 011

12 ZDHC accepted 3rd party certification standards to date BLC Chem-MAP as Level 1 and 3 indicator bluesign bluefinder as Level 3 indicator Clean Production Action's (CPA) GreenScreen Certified Standard for Textile Chemicals as Level 1 indicator Control Union as Level 1, 2 and 3 indicator ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX Programme as Level 1 and 3 indicator Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) as Level 1 indicator NimkarTek Detox Laboratory (NDL) as Level 1 indicator TÜV Rheinland as Level 1 indicator NSF International as Level 1 indicator SciveraLENS as Level 1 indicator ToxServices Full Materials Disclosure Screened Chemistry TM (ToxFMD ) Program as Level 1 indicator The levels are indicators for chemical formulations conforming to ZDHC MRSL v

13 From Turkey: 22 From Turkey: 205 ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module 549 Chemical Formulator Accounts 1,875 Supplier Accounts 13,028 Chemical Products Status: 09/2018

14 ZDHC ChemCheck The chemical product passport Formulator s Summary Chemical Product Description Coming in 2019 Proof of authenticity with a unique stamp & digitally signed by ZDHC Chemical product summary, including ZDHC MRSL Conformance Level Certifications and SDS summary, listing individual chemical product certifications and their verification status Description of the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Level 014

15 ZDHC InCheck Chemical Conformance Proof for Suppliers In Progress InCheck Scoring Methodology vs2 Supplier Vitals Introduction to ZDHC InCheck Chemical Product Inventory Conformance Statistics High-level overview of supplier s inventory conformance Improving Guidance 015

16 A holistic approach OUTPUT management Wastewater standards literature review Wastewater Guidelines ZDHC Gateway Wastewater Module 016

17 Standard for management of output chemistry ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines Industry alignment for a single, unified set of expectations for wastewater discharge quality Beyond current regulatory compliance Ensure that wastewater discharges do not adversely affect environment and communities Two sets of parameters: Conventional Parameters: Limit values are classified into three levels: Foundational, Progressive, Aspirational ZDHC MRSL Parameters (Priority Hazardous Chemicals): includes those priority hazardous chemicals defined in the ZDHC MRSL 017

18 ZDHC Gateway Wastewater Module THE global online platform to register and share verified Wastewater test data against the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines.

19 In Turkey: 5 Wastewater Module 1,709 Test Reports 71 ZDHC Accepted Labs In 23 countries Status: 09/2018

20 ZDHC ClearStream CURRENT FORMAT Supplier key vitals High Level conformance details for Conventional Parameters High Level conformance details for MRSL Parameters Detail Test Results Colour coding indicate level of conformity 020

21 Public Disclosure Portal Aggregated Waste Water Data from Gateway Anonymous Facilities. Only will show point on map with Green, Orange or Red status CAP - limited to pdf upload by Supplier Limited zoom to country/province level to protect anonymity of the supplier Map has gone live in June gateway/public-disclosure-portal/ 021

22 THE global, go-to training platform for sustainable chemical management and ZDHC tools in the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industry Accredited and certified Creating Awareness Building Knowledge Gaining Skills

23 The ZDHC Implementation HUB Driving large-scale transformation in an integral way Platform to find and match with accredited experts Piloting environment for scalable innovation scenarios Support for continuous progress under the ZDHC Leader Programme Enabler for largescale implementation projects 023

24 The Leader Programme for brands/retailers Driving collaborative implementation and value chain impact Key performance indicators: Legal Compliance Corporate Chemicals Sustainability Policy Procurement Supply Chain Implementation Verification FOUNDATIONAL Level I PROGRESSIVE Level II More Advanced Metrics Intermediate Block ASPIRATIONAL Level III Exemplary Metrics Targeted Block Elementary ZDHC tools Starting Block Coming for facilities in

25 Staying competitive & growing sustainably in a proactive and collaborative way Access to (global) markets Leading on environmental protection Sustainability through innovation

26 THANK YOU! Contact us at Learn more at