Dr Gerhard Wolf, BASF SE Rasia Banu, BASF India Alfred Lin, BASF China

Transcription

1 Dr Gerhard Wolf, BASF SE Rasia Banu, BASF India Alfred Lin, BASF China Prime Source Forum, Hong Kong

2 Leather : Manufacture and Value Chain High complexity Article Manufacturer Abattoir / Hide market Chemical Supplier Tannery Leather consumer market Cattle, Sheep, Goat, Pig, Exotic, etc M/c Supplier Design House End consumer, Retailer, Brands, Buying houses A wide complex spectrum value chain of social most strata of is the covered steps are across inter-continental the value chain as well Rawhide Beamhouse Wet End Finishing Wet blue Semi finished Wet white leather Stabilizing & Crosslinking of collagen (no degradation), hair removal Defining leather properties, dyeing Protective and fashionable coating Finished leather Detergents Auxiliaries Enzymes Deliming agents Tanning agents Syntans Polymers Dyes Fatliquors Water repellents Binders Top coat Pigments Auxiliaries Dyes Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 2

3 Waste to Wealth : Fundamental principle of Leather Industry Meat-, milk-, wool-products Main Target products By Products Cannot be eliminated High organic content Hide and skin create Disposal? value! Huge environmental load in terms of organic waste! Inelastic relation between leather and meat industry : no driving power Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 3

4 Leather Production: Maximum value addition from waste Processing of collagen 1 Processing Technology 99% theoretical utilization rate renewable material Best practice technics and tools available But: Control?! High utilization of hide material is possible, but need is for clean technology Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 1: dried hide w/o salt, JALCA, 105(8), 256 4

5 Sustainability & leather: A way forward in the leather market Elements of footprint Carbon Water Carbon Process and products in the tannery Impact on climate change - Harmful substances, legal restriction Brand/OEM requirements Resource Resource Leather as renewable resource Optimized, efficient chemicals Water Reduced water consumption Waste water treatment Various footprint elements to create a sustainable future Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 5

6 Ecological challenges in Leather Manufacturing BEAMHOUSE 1000 kg raw hides TANNAGE Salted hides + chemicals Salt load in pickling Lime Use of chrome salts Sulfide Effluent Effluent Cr-VI Solid waste wage costs disposal costs Detergents (APEO) Biozides 5% manufacturing and 12% overhead costs 12% 40 m 3 waste water chemicals 8% 600 kg solid wastes 3% energy WET FINISHNG Effluent (COD) Migartion/Fixation Benzidine-Dyestuffs Chloro-Paraffines Formaldehyde Acetaldehyde Detergants (APEO) 60% raw hides 250 kg leather FINISHING VOC NMP, NEP Detergents (APEO) Heavy metals Tin-containing Pu s Perflourinated chemicals Harmful substances in leather is an ongoing workload and challenge Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 6

7 Leather Campaign Zero discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Chemical groups Impact on leather value chain Leather high medium low BASF Impact Phthalates X Clean Brominated and Chlorinated flame retardants X Clean Azo dyes 1 X Clean Organotin Compunds (TBT; others) X Clean Chlorobenzenes X Clean Chlorinated Solvents X Clean Chlorophenols (PCP, TECP,TriCP) X Clean Short-Chain Chlorinated Paraffines(SCCP) X Clean Heavey Metals (Cd,Pb,Hg,Cr-VI) X 2 Clean APEO s, esp. NPEO X Clean Perflourinated Chemicals (PCOA, PFOS, C8-technology) X Clean Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 1:relevant to Annex XVII of Reach; 2: mainly Cr-VI 7

8 Restricted harmful substances in leather A short overview Legislation/Specification/Labels/Standards Legislation / Specification / Labels / Standards Increasing standards for leather and leather articles Legal demands eg. Europe: REACH US: Calif. Prop 65 Japan: Law China: Law Institutes, Labels, Brands... (GADSL, CADS, SG-Label, Ökotex, Nike, Adidas, Timberland, Deichmann, Greenpeace, Peta...) Future target Note: Different methods of analysis, different thresholds, limits in leather or in chemical Harmful substances in leather is an ongoing workload and challenge Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 8

9 Restricted harmful substances in leather Latest developments Legislation/Specification/Labels/Standards Ongoing pressure, from brands, legislative and NGO s Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 9

10 Restricted harmful substances along leather value chain : Topics for discussion Basic restricted substance list (RSL) Harmonized and generally acepted limits Harmonized and generally acepted testing methods No global harmonized standards for harmful substances Quality systems along the value chain Brands/retailors are in the lead with a living QS-system Brands and retailors have to control entire value chain Improved techncial (eco) know how Monitoring and certification, e.g. LWG, CADS, ECO2L Tanneries have to select reliable chemical supplier Tanneries have to work sustainable Brands are in the lead, value chain will follow Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 10

11 We don t inherit this earth from our parents; We borrow it from our children. Many thanks to all of you!! By the way, that s ours, remember?!! Any question? gerhard.g.wolf@basf.com alfred.lin@basf.com Dr.Wolf, Alfred Lin, Rasia 11