Criteria on cotton production in Ecolabel for Textiles, Footwear and Furniture

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1 Criteria on cotton production in Ecolabel for Textiles, Footwear and Furniture Jiannis Kougoulis EU Ecolabel Team DG ENVIRONMENT A1. Circular Economy and Ecoinnovation

2 Content Cotton production criterion 1. Relevant Product groups 2. Criterion structure 3. Ecolabel for Textiles as voted in Draft proposal of Ecolabel for Furniture - EUEB Draft proposal of Ecolabel for Footwear EUEB Overview and discussion 2

3 Relevant Product Groups Ecolabel requirements on cotton production in different product groups Clothing and Textiles Furniture Commission Decision of 2014 Draft proposal EUEB 2016 Draft proposal EUEB

4 Criterion structure Cotton production Ecolabel Criterion structure 1. Pesticides restrictions 2. Traceability of production 3. Minimum content of cotton that is: 3a. Produced following the Integrated Pesticide Management (IPM) system 3b. Organic cotton Important complementary issues: - provisions on GMO cotton - exclude from the minimum % content recycled fibres 4

5 Textiles Criterion 2014/350/EU Textiles 1. Pesticides restrictions 2. Traceability of production Following CB forum conclusions list shall be amended 3. Minimum content of cotton that is: 3a. Integrated Pesticide Management (IPM) OR 60 % for 20 % for others T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks 3b. Organic cotton 95 % for 10 % for others 5 T-shirts, woman's tops, casual shirts, jeans, pyjamas and nightwear, underwear and socks

6 Textiles Criterion 2014/350/EU Textiles Important complementary issues: -GMO cotton For the production standard 1(a) Organic, all conventional cotton and IPM cotton used shall come from non-genetic-ally modified varieties Only non-gmo cotton is allowed to be mixed with the organic cotton Following CB forum conclusions: Difficulties in verification of non GMO conventional cotton or high cost of tests and limited market availability of organic cotton - No provision for recycled fibre in

7 Footwear draft proposal EUEB2016 Footwear 1. Pesticides restrictions BE and NO commented to amend list and align it with oekotex Traceability of production 3. Minimum content of cotton that is: 3a. Produced applying an Integrated Pesticide Management (IPM) scheme OR 3b. Organic cotton 100% Note: Strikethrough text compared to EU ecolabel on textiles

8 Footwear draft proposal EUEB2016 Footwear Important complementary issues: -GMO cotton Only non-gmo cotton is allowed to be mixed with the organic cotton Following CB forum conclusions: Difficulties in verification for the conventional cotton to be non-gmo and limited market availability of organic cotton no difficulties in verification as it is requested 100% organic - Yes, there is a provision for recycled fibre in 8

9 Furniture draft proposal EUEB2016 Furniture 1. Pesticides restrictions 2. Traceability of production BE and NO commented to amend list and align it with oekotex Minimum content of cotton that is: 3a. Produced applying an Integrated Pesticide Management (IPM) scheme OR 3b. Organic cotton Note: Strikethrough text compared to EU ecolabel on textiles

10 Furniture draft proposal EUEB2016 Furniture Important complementary issues: - provision for GMO cotton For the production standard 1(a) Organic, all conventional cotton and IPM cotton used shall come from non-genetic-ally modified varieties Following CB forum conclusions: Difficulties in verification for the conventional cotton to be non-gmo and limited market availability of organic cotton no difficulties as there is no requirement for verification BE and NO proposed Footwear and Textiles to align with the Furniture proposal on the GMO provision - Yes, there is a provision for recycled fibre in Note: Strikethrough text compared to EU ecolabel on textiles 10

11 Overview Ecolabel requirements on cotton production Textiles Footwear Furniture 1. Pesticides restrictions 2. Traceability of production 3. Min. Content a. IPM or b. Organic Complementary issues Commission Decision of 2014 IPM: 60 % or 20% Org.:95 % or 10 % non-gmo verification No exception for recycled fibres Draft proposal EUEB 2016 IPM: 20 % Org.: 100 % Not applicable GMO verification Exception for recycled fibres 11 Draft proposal EUEB 2016 IPM: 20 % Org.: 10% Not applicable GMO verification Exception for recycled fibres

12 Thank you 12

13 [as shared in CB forum] Ecolabel Textiles Options of verifying that the conventional cotton mixed with organic is not from a GMO variety By using 100% organic cotton By using cotton certified with the Fair Trade or Cotton Made in Africa IPM standards for which availability on the market is limited. By using cotton exclusively produced in countries that there is no authorisation of GMO cotton cultivation (EU and some others such as e.g. Turkey, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan). The market availability of these sources is limited though. By GM tests. This test shall take place before the wet processing so as to ensure the accuracy of the test. In order to reduce the cost, it is can be accepted a screening test of cotton samples and this only for countries where GM cotton crops are authorised. The testing cost will be then indicatively /sample screening, dropping to around 100 for further samples 13