12 OCTOBER 2017 l FILM SCREENING #82

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1 12 OCTOBER 2017 l FILM SCREENING #82

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3 TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA A $40 billion industry, mostly informal sector and poorly regulated Employs ~45 million workers 12.6 million children engaged in child labor >95% of the factories have no trade unions on their premises Overtime reaches about hours of working per week - mostly not or underpaid Average daily wage from 14-35, workers take home between per month.

4 ESTIMATES ON FORCED LABOR - GLOBAL As per International Labour Organisation (ILO) 21 million people are victims of forced labour Global Slavery Index (GSI) says there are 36 million slaves in the world, half of them in India.

5 The more time you spend among poor people the more you become convinced that poverty not due to any incapacity on the part of the poor. Poverty is not created by poor people. It s created by the systems we have built, the institutions we have designed, and the concepts we have formulated. Poverty is created by the insufficiencies in the institutions we have built. For example, the financial institutions. These banks refuse to provide financial services to nearly 2/3rds of the world s population. For generations they claimed it could not be done and people accepted that explanation, which allowed loan sharks (or greedy moneylenders) to thrive all over the world. The Grameen Bank questioned this assumption and demonstrated that lending money to the poorest is not only possible but also profitable. -- Muhammad Yunus, Social Entrepreneur, Founder of Grameen Bank, 2006 Nobel Peace Prize Winner

6 Telos Pi - Defining Organizational and Individual Purpose In an Era of Accelerating Technological Change Machines Green Initiatives Film Screening Oct 12, /13/ telospi.com 26

7 10/13/ telospi.com 27

8 Which jobs are left in 20 years from now, when automation has taken over the manufacturing and AI the service industry? 10/13/ telospi.com 28

9 Childhood Memories 10/13/ telospi.com 29

10 The Past and Future of the Labor Market Human employment is in direct competition with automation. [Peter Joseph, Zeitgeist Addendum] primary secondary tertiary

11 New Choices What would you do, if you had a universal conditional basic income? Machines are extensions of human performance and are means to only one end: make human life in particular and all life in general better. [Jacques Fresco]

12 What are our garments made of? Most garments are made of multiple, often composite material e.g. 18% polyamide 72% polyester, 10% cotton. Insignificant quantities are made of wool, silk, hemp, jute, flax, etc. Animal fleece Cotton plant Crude oil Timber wool cotton Synthetic fiber Cellulosic fiber 1.3% 24.3% 62.6% 5.6% 2017 telospi.com 32

13 Where have our clothes been manufactured? Label refers only to garment manufacturing location but Does not indicate other steps in the value chain. Fiber staple production Spinning mill Weaving - Knitting Dyeing - Finishing Garment Manufacturing Brand Retailer End Customer Complexity and globalization of textile industry makes it difficult for end costumer to understand the impact of one s consumption behavior telospi.com 33

14 Why did the textile industry lead the industrialization and globalization? 10/13/ telospi.com 34

15 What are the challenges in the textile industry? High water consumption Environmental pollution Precarious working conditions Global mobility In particular for cotton production And dyeing process dyeing chemicals ¼ of pesticides and insecticides for growing cotton Sewing, dyeing, laundering are migrant s jobs Lowest wage levels moves quick to economies with least labor and environment protection Conservative Industry Complexity Enterprise certification Customer awareness Manual work despite automation Wide spread exploitation of weakest population group CSR mangers and regulators often don t understand industry Composite materials not easy to recycle only apply to single sub-industries Certification agencies have their own profit driven industry System blindness: manufacturing happens far away Consumption disorder: why do we consume in the first place? 2017 telospi.com 35

16 Disposal of Textiles Composite materials make recycling inefficient S o r t i n g Recycling Incineration Landfill 36

17 Where are the global textile subindustry leaders? In case you want to know where your garments have most likely been manufactured: China is a good guess. 80% of global fiber output is from China The five leading producers of cotton are China (6.5 mio mt), India (6.4 mio mt), US (3.5 mio mt), Pakistan (2.3 mio mt) and Brazil (1.5 mio mt). The largest exporters of textiles in 2013 were China ($274 bn), India ($40 bn), Italy ($36 billion), Germany ($35 billion), Bangladesh ($28 billion) and Pakistan ($27 Billion). [31] In 2016, the largest apparel exporting nations were China ($161 bn), Bangladesh ($28 bn), Vietnam ($25 bn), India ($18 bn), Hong Kong ($16 bn), Turkey ($15 bn) and Indonesia ($7 bn). [1] 37

18 How to reduce social & environmental impact?? 10/13/ telospi.com 38

19 How to reduce social & environmental impact? Manufacturers: Move away from cotton > reduce agricultural pollution and water consumption significantly; free land for food production Move away from synthetic fibers > reduce dependency on non renewable fossil resources; reduce chemical pollution Increase production of cellulosic fibers > focus on timber as renewable resource Reduce dyeing and imagine colors > permanent fete blanche Consumers: Extend life span of textiles > wear your clothes longer or buy 2 nd hand garment Reduce consumption and reject fast fashion Ikea effect > Make your own clothes increases attachment 10/13/ telospi.com 39

20 Knut K. Wimberger 郭伟刻 Read my blogs: mingong.org - on the future of work mycountryandmypeople.org - on china Everything that irritates us about others can lead us to an understanding of ourselves. [C. G. Jung] 2017 telospi.com