FREQUENT QUESTIONS AND QUERIES AND TROUBLE SHOOTING

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1 1 ISSUE: 6

2 FREQUENT QUESTIONS AND QUERIES AND TROULE SHOOTING 1. PART NUMERS - You may find that the door top and bottom don t match up with the instruction book. This is because of a error in manufacturing. The parts are correct but the number punch was set up incorrectly. This has now been corrected. 2. PART NUMERS - The door stile with the lock assembly is punched 715 instead of PART NUMERS - the stronger 438 replaces HEKING OF PARTS - please note that some of the smaller components (namely for the door/s and vent/s), for example 575, 578, 709, etc, are pre-attached to their adjoining larger component to save you the job and to ensure that they are always present. 5. HEKING OF PARTS - The Door Runner - HE375(G) is often reported missing, this can be found inside the Door Track - HE403(G) 6. AR APPING GENERAL - Do not tighten the bolts up fully until just before you put on the nut caps at the end of construction. Keeping the frame loose will help when inserting the bar capping allowing the building to expand slightly. In order to keep the glass central to its aperture during glazing it is a good idea to start off the capping on both sides. go 8 up each side and then choose one side to go all the way to the top. 7. AR APPING UNDER VENTS - When you are glazing the roof you will need to cut the bar capping around the vent. The best tool for the job is a hacksaw. The capping can be cut down to just below the slam bar so that the vent can close down fully. 8. AR APPING AROUND LOUVRES - ar capping can go down each side of a louvre but it is a very tight fit. It is far easier to cut the capping so that it only goes on the glass above and below the louvre and not down the louvre side where it serves no purpose. 9. DOOR EDGING STRIP - Often the black plastic door edging strips 558 need a few mm s trimming off them especially in the lower half of the door to ensure a perfect fit, use a hacksaw! 10. AUTOVENT ATTAHMENT - When clamping on your autovent attach the vent clamp first and then apply the second larger clamp to the slam bar. Sometimes the middle set of holes of the lower bracket leads to a better fit. Try to get the autovent to follow as closely as possible the pitch of the roof. Number GLASS SEPERATORS LOATION - Please be aware that some glass separators are often located within your black rain water collection pipes. 12. PURLINGS - The horizontal purlings / braces in your greenhouse gables (front / rear) can be fitted in either orientation. This is sometimes helpful when joining the sides to the gables where the purlings can get in the way of the bolt slots. 2

3 Glazing with ar apping Locate the top edge of the capping under the arrow head of the glazing bar. Roll the body of the capping around until the bottom edge of the capping touches the glass. Then push the capping across the face of the glass towards the upright of the glazing bar. Use the required force to push the capping in place. The capping will flex and snap into position. The glazing rubber will compress slightly when the capping is pushed in place to give a good seal. Top View 3

4 W lip fitting A 557 A P P EE PP QQ QQ P U P U PP T S DD DD DD DD T S EE V L W-lip

5 XL AUTOVENT ATTAHMENT TO HERULES GREENHOUSE 5

6 HANGING ASKET RAILS IN RELATION TO AN A-FRAME If you are fitting hanging basket bars to a building with an extension you will need to do the following. The main building s hanging basket bar will need to be cut down with a hacksaw to attach to the glazing bar in front of the A-frame. The extensions hanging basket bar is already notched out so that it can be clamped between the roof bar brace of the A-frame and the roof glazing bar. See the image bellow. 6

7 A-FRAMES AND PARTITIONS Please be aware on buildings longer than 12 the A-frame supplied needs to be positioned were every extension join commences. Therefore if you are having a partition in your building it can NOT go on the join it will need to go 2 in front of the a-frame or 2 behind! Please also note that on a single door partition the door is not central to the building it is off to one side which may affect the location or width of your path. All extensions are 8 long so for example on a 14 long building it consists of a 6 long building with an 8 extension. If you are adding a partition to a 14 building therefore it can NOT be fitted 6 from the front of the building, see diagram below. 14 EXAMPLE SHOWN ELOW WITH A-FRAME AND PARTITION OPTIONS MAIN UILDING 8 EXTENSION PARTITION? PARTITION? A-FRAME PARTITION? PARTITION? PARTITION? FRONT Other examples, 1. a 20 long building will consist of a 12 long building with an 8 long extension 2. a 22 long building will consist of an 6 long building with two 8 extensions 7

8 End finials need to be pinched onto ridge using DV282 grub screws. Depending on your ridge length a half cresting may need to be cut or/ and some spacer bar DV281 cut into two equal sections. Each finial and cresting piece needs to be siliconed D119 into place. UT 6mm SILIONE D119 DV282 ROREALU DV281 ROFINALU DV281 EQUAL 8

9 LANK PAGE This booklet is designed to help our customers as much as possible. If you think more information or clarity is required on a particular topic then please ; design@thegreenhousepeople.co.uk, or James.spooner@greenhousepeople.co.uk We are keen to help speed up assembly and reduce unnecessary technical help calls! 9

10 ASE PREPARATION You have quite a choice in terms of the style of base that you can prepare. The most important objective is that it is level. The different styles of bases that we recommend are as follows: Note: Your greenhouse size is only nominal, for example a 6 X 8 greenhouse is not exactly 6 by 8! It will actually be a few inches bigger. So be careful when building your base as mistakes on the size of your base are difficult to correct later. Also we don t recommend building your greenhouse directly onto soil. 1. Slabs (our preferred method) - Level paving slabs are ideal for a greenhouse base. Make sure the area of slabs is larger than the footprint of the greenhouse (see more details and photos in extra information booklet). Slabs are also good for drainage because of the joints between them. If you put a polythene sheet or similar barriers underneath, this could prevent drainage. You can also lay your slabs out as a perimeter around the edge of the building with a path up the middle if you want to grow directly from the soil. 2. oncrete Plinth - This is a simple footing around the edge of the greenhouse. You can do this by digging a small trench about 4-6 deep by 6 wide. As with all bases ensure that it is level along the length as well as side to side. If you don t have a long level then you could use a long bar or straight piece of wood under your level to get a more accurate reading. This is probably the cheapest and easiest base to build which enables you to have soil inside so that you can grow straight from the ground. 3. Solid oncrete - This type of base is good from a structural point of view as you can get good fixings. It is also fine as far as drainage is concerned as long as the concrete is not sealed, painted or laid on a membrane. Ways of increasing drainage are: When laying the concrete you could lay Aco drive drains to take surface water away or if the concrete is already laid you could simply drill through the concrete and create soakaways. 4. rick ase - This is the traditional greenhouse base. It is usually 1 or 2 courses high but can be higher if required. This is a much more costly and difficult base to install. This is because you need to make a concrete footing first, then you need to lay the courses of bricks to the millimetre so that they fit the cill of the greenhouse perfectly. However it does have an advantage, the cill overlaps the brick edge minimising water flow under the cill, which is important if you need to control the humidity and are using a de-humidifier etc. Important: Always use a completely solid engineering brick for the top layer with no holes or frogs (such as Staffordshire lue). This is because you ll need to anchor your greenhouse down by drilling and screwing into the bricks and if they have holes in then this is extremely difficult. If you are doing more than one course then you can use bricks with holes or frogs lower down where it will not matter. Two different styles of base that we don t recommend: 1. lock Paving - This is not an ideal base for a greenhouse. This is because when you screw your greenhouse down you will only be screwing into loose blocks, which will not be a strong enough fixing. 2. Tarmac - Again not ideal because of the anchoring problems, and it is much harder to get a level surface. However if you do want to put your greenhouse on tarmac, then the way to anchor it will be as on soil. You can dig out spade width holes where each base bracket will situate and fill these with concrete, let it set, then when your greenhouse is in position you can screw into the concrete. 10

11 LEAN-TO ASE PREPARATION SLAS (recommended) / ONRETE: More commonly if you are using a slab or a concrete base you would normally slab an area about 2 (610mm) larger than your greenhouse (i.e. 2 larger than the dimensions below in each direction giving a 1 perimeter around the building). This insets the fixing points away from the edge of the base and will give you a much stronger fixing point. This will also give you room for maintenance around your greenhouse. Example: a 6 x 8 might sit nicely on an 8 X 10 sized slab area. RIK PLINTH: The following tables give the exact external dimensions for the greenhouse brickwork footprint. (i.e. if you are building a brick plinth the external face of the brick should be to these precise measurements). The brickwork will be inset from the cills so that they slightly overhang the bricks and allow the anchor brackets to locate more centrally on the top of the bricks surface. Therefore, the measurements below are not the exact overall dimensions of the building, they will in fact be a few mm s longer and wider. Look for your building size in the left hand column and read across for the width and length. When building any base make sure the diagonal measurements are equal and everything is level. Nominal Size Hastings / Warwick Depth (mm) 6 X X X X X X X X X X X X X (For buildings larger than 30 foot long just add 620mm for every 2 foot increase) Hastings / Warwick 2495mm WIDTH PLEASE USE mm MEASUREMENTS ONLY! Length (mm) Lean-to Ridge Height DIAGONALS osworth / Winchester Nominal Size Depth (mm) osworth / Winchester 2639mm LENGTH Length (mm) 8 X X X X X X X X X X X X X

12 ASE PREPARATION SLAS (recommended) / ONRETE: More commonly if you are using a slab or a concrete base you would normally slab an area about 2 (610mm) larger than your greenhouse (i.e. 2 larger than the dimensions below in each direction giving a 1 perimeter around the building). This insets the fixing points away from the edge of the base and will give you a much stronger fixing point. This will also give you room for maintenance around your greenhouse. Example: a 6 x 8 might sit nicely on an 8 X 10 sized slab area. RIK PLINTH: The following tables give the exact external dimensions for the greenhouse brickwork footprint. (i.e. if you are building a brick plinth the external face of the brick should be to these precise measurements). The brickwork will be inset from the cills so that they slightly overhang the bricks and allow the anchor brackets to locate more centrally on the top of the bricks surface. Therefore, the measurements below are not the exact overall dimensions of the building, they will in fact be a few mm s longer and wider. Look for your building size in the left hand column and read across for the width and length. When building any base make sure the diagonal measurements are equal and everything is level. WIDTH DIAGONALS LENGTH PLEASE USE mm MEASUREMENTS ONLY! Trafalgar / hepstow lenheim / Richmond Naseby / Rochester Nominal Width Length Nominal Width Length Nominal Width Length Size mm mm Size mm mm Size mm mm 6 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X Please note that buildings longer than 12 in length are modular and will utilise an 8 extension and A-frame at each join. E.g.: a 14 long building will be a 6 main module with an 8 extension. A 36 = (For buildings larger than 30 foot long just add 620mm for every 2 foot increase) 12