MATERIALS AND TOOLS. Construction Guidelines. InterBlock

Transcription

1 MATERIALS AND TOOLS Cordless Drill Wood Screws Key Hole Saw Chalk Line String Line Rebar Bender/Cutter Scaffolding Scaffold Planks Step Ladders Tape Measure 6 Level Level Transit or Laser Snap Ties and Hair Pins Hammer Rubber Mallet Router or Hotwire knife Hotwire Cutting Table or Hand Saw Tin Snips Low Expansion Foam Adhesive Foam Adhesive Gun 5/8 Wood Drill Bit 1/2 x 10 drill bit 6 Hole Saw Window and Door Buck Material (2x10 and 2x4 lumber) Bracing Material (2x4 lumber) Consolidation Tools Turn-buckle

2 SYSTEM COMPONENTS FORMS Insulated Concrete Forms are manufactured from expanded polystyrene (EPS) as a fully molded and solid piece. The forms are built in two cell sizes. The 6 inch cell, which is the most common size, is 9-5/8" W x 48"L x 12"H, with five vertical cells. The 8 inch cell is 12 W x 48 L x 12 H, with four vertical cells. The form comes in four basic shapes. -Standard Form -Standard Form -Corner Form -Closed End Form -Pilaster Form -Corner Form Each form is reversible, with no defined left, right, top or bottom, and will interlock regardless of direction. The interlocking tabs ensure that the vertical cells will align whether running in a straight line or at 90 angles. Each form has lines between cells to indicate cutting locations. -Closed End Form -Pilaster Form

3 PLASTIC SCREW CHANNEL The plastic channel is inserted into the top and bottom of adjacent rows of blocks and creates a continuous horizontal point for fastening finish material. The horizontal placement allows easy location of the channel, reducing cutting and waste of blocks and finish material. STEEL SCREW CHANNEL The steel screw channel is used similarly to the plastic screw channel, yet it is designed for fastening finish material to the external wall or to hang heavy objects on the walls. The steel screw channel provides greater strength by means of tabs that are anchored in the concrete. This is more commonly used for industrial applications, but it is also used for residential projects. REINFORCEMENT Refer to local building codes and use the information in the Reinforcing Tables for the proper amount and placement of reinforcing rods. Placement of reinforcement should be reviewed by an engineer who is familiar with the project. Rebar must be placed within ACI tolerances. Rebar should be placed using Rebar Chairs and/or No-Tie Rebar Chairs. These rebar chairs are designed to eliminate tying, ensuring better placement of the steel and giving maximum structural integrity to the wall.

4 STANDARD REBAR CHAIR The standard rebar chair is a galvanized wire that is placed across the block, to support and suspend the horizontal reinforcing rod. The standard chair is placed in depressions between cells, every 4 to 5 feet along a wall section where reinforcing rod is required. NO-TIE REBAR CHAIR The no-tie rebar chair is a galvanized wire that is placed across the block, to support and locate the vertical reinforcing rod. The no-tie chair is placed between the interlocking tabs, with the loop over the middle of the vertical cell. The no-tie chair should be placed in two courses (typically the 3rd and 7th), in corresponding columns where reinforcing rod is required. The no-tie chairs can also support horizontal reinforcing rods if placed in appropriate rows. CONCRETE All applications require a minimum 3,000 psi mix concrete. Concrete should be poured at a 5" to 6" slump, with a maximum aggregate size of 3/4"; pea gravel is ideal. Placement of the concrete is most easily accomplished using a pump truck equipped with a double elbow. However, it can also be placed by conveyer, bucket, concrete pump or chute.

5 BASIC INSTALLATION The following techniques are helpful when building with the system and should be used as construction recommendations, not design specifications. Personal experience and/or field conditions may result in variances of these techniques. However, building codes and standard construction practices must always be followed. It is recommended that a licensed architect or engineer provide design plans and specifications for approval by the proper authorities local to the project. DESIGN CONSIDERATION The building system is manufactured with a 9-5/8" cell size. The Conversion Chart should be used to design and build with. If your building is already designed and cannot be converted to cell sizes, it is still possible to build any length wall, but it will require some cutting of the forms between cells. FOOTINGS Footings must be designed and constructed in accordance with local building code. 1. Footings should be level within +/- 1/4. If the footings are not level, the forms can be cut or shimmed to level the first course. 2. The footings may be keyed or rebar may be cast in place per local code. 3. All rebar dowels must be capped for a safe jobsite.

6 WALL LAYOUT An accurate wall layout is very important for a quality finished job. 1. Confirm that the layout is in compliance with design plan dimensions and check for square. 2. Mark the layout with a string or chalk line according to plan. 3. Along the outside of the layout lines in every corner, a wood shoe is secured into the footing using scrap 2x4 lumber. The wood shoe may also be placed along the length of the wall, but is only required in the corners. An alternative method is to use a light gauge 1" x 2" U-Channel, nailed to the footing on your building line. The U-Channel does not need to be removed and the form will fit inside the channel, holding the form in place along the building line. WALL CONSTRUCTION FIRST COURSE - Layout a complete first course of forms beginning at each corner and working toward the center of the walls. 1. Begin with a full corner block running in one direction and then a full standard block placed along the perpendicular wall of the same corner. Repeat this process in every corner of the structure, with all corner blocks turning in the same direction if possible. 2. Place whole standard blocks working from the corners to the center of each wall section. 3. The forms should fit loosely where they meet in the center of the wall. Forms can be cut as needed with a hand saw or hot wire table. The length of the cut block can be written on the block itself to eliminate repeated measuring at each row. If your building was not designed for the 9-5/8 cell size, then refer to step 4 below for further details.

7 4. Where dimensions require cutting less than a full cell, it will be necessary to remove the interlocking teeth on both courses, top and bottom, where the vertical cells do not align. Two sections of plastic screw channel should be inserted between the two courses, stabilizing and aligning this section of the wall. As stated in Step 3 above, you must stagger joints throughout the courses of every wall section for strength and stability. 5. Place plastic screw strip in the first course as needed to satisfy local code requirements. 6. Place necessary rebar in the first course as specified and according to local code. 7. Do not cut the connecting webs under any circumstances. SECOND COURSE - A strong bond and straight walls are built by overlapping two or three cells between adjacent courses, staggering your joints. 1. To begin this overlapping pattern you must start the second course by cutting a full corner form between the third and fourth cells, counting away from the corner. This will create what is referred to as a 3-2, meaning you now have one piece with 3 cells and one piece with 2 cells. 2. Place the 3-cell corner in the opposite direction of the first row corner. 3. Place the 2-cell section remaining along the perpendicular wall working off the same corner. 4. Start each corner on the second course in this way and proceed to the center of the wall as with the first course. Make sure to always stagger your joints with a two or three cell overlap.

8 5. Place plastic screw strip in the second course as needed to satisfy local code requirements. 6. Place necessary rebar in the second course as specified and according to local code. 7. Check that the walls are level and straight. If needed, make adjustments by cutting or shimming under the first course of block. ADDITIONAL COURSES The remainder of the wall is erected by continuing the overlap patterns established in the layout courses. What was done on the first course is repeated on every subsequent odd numbered course. What was done on the second course is repeated on every subsequent even numbered course. Bracing should be installed after the fourth or fifth course, depending on wind or other site specific conditions. Confirm building dimensions and square periodically (every 2 to 4 rows) as the walls are built. Place plastic screw strip in each course as needed to satisfy local code requirements. Place necessary rebar in each course as specified and according to local code. Glue the top course to the blocks below using foam adhesive. If more stories/courses will be installed later, the tabs must be protected before concrete placement. If this is the last story/course, the tabs must be broken off before concrete placement. Check corners for plumb. Confirm straight wall by placing a string line along the top of each wall.

9 SPECIALTY INSTALLATION ANGLE WALLS 1. Angled walls and corners that are not 90 can be accomplished by making the desired cuts using a hand saw or hot wire table. The flexibility of the design allows any angle to be designed and constructed using a Standard form. 2. The outside edge of any angled wall joint requires a 15 section of the plastic screw strip be placed in the outside slot, connecting the joint. Any gaps in the joint must be filled with expandable foam prior to placement of concrete. 3. Due to the nature of this type of corner, you will not be able to stagger your joint with every other row of blocks as with a standard corner. Any non-standard corner or angled wall will require additional bracing at the joints to stabilize the wall during the placement of concrete. A vertical support with a kicker on both sides of the non-standard corner must be used to properly stabilize the corner. RADIUS WALLS Radius walls are assembled similarly to an angled wall, but will require extra attention to the planning and layout of the wall. The minimum radius of 20 is allowable using standard forms. Please contact an representative for specific instructions for building and assembling radius walls

10 T WALLS 1. T-Walls are simply accomplished using the System. Each row of block requires the intersection to be staggered and built similar to a standard corner. 2. A modified corner block must be placed at the location of the intersecting wall. This requires a standard corner to have manual cut-outs on the opposing side of the manufactured corner, so there are openings on both sides of the corner. Work away from this corner in both directions as if it were a normal corner. 3. The next course of block will tie the t-wall to the through wall with a standard block placed over the modified corner block. The center cell, where the t-wall will intersect, must have openings manually cut to mirror the shape at the end of a standard block. 4. A 2-cell standard block is then placed on the t-wall, butting against the cell where the cuts were made. 5. As with a standard corner, each row must alternate and the joints must be staggered. GABLE WALLS 1. Build wall section to peak height of gable with no rebar or plastic screw channel. 2. Snap a chalk line on the face of the wall for the desired gable pitch. 3. Disassemble this wall section and cut the forms along the chalk lines. 4. Reassemble the cut block with required rebar and plastic screw channel as needed. 5. Wood or foam sheeting may be secured over the lower ends of the gable walls when placing concrete. Concrete placement should be performed cautiously in gable walls.

11 REINFORCEMENT BASICS Reinforcing steel helps to minimize and control cracking and buckling of concrete. Reinforcing steel must be a minimum of Grade 40. Reinforcing steel must have a minimum of 3/4 concrete cover. The proper length of overlap in an overlap splice must be 40d (40 X diameter of the bar). Using the rebar chairs simplifies the process and adds to the structural stability of the wall by controlling the rebar placement. The Reinforcing Tables can be used as a general reference, but always place rebar as specified and according to local code. Consult with your building inspector prior to starting any job to obtain any code required inspections. HORIZONTAL REINFORCEMENT Use the standard rebar chairs on each course requiring horizontal rebar. Place them into the top of the forms every 4 to 5 feet in the depressions provided between cells. Place horizontal rebar, as required, as each course is installed. Leave adequate space from windows and doors to allow for wall adjustments.

12 VERTICAL REINFORCEMENT Use the no-tie rebar chairs on two courses of each wall section (typically 3rd and 7th). Place the no-tie chairs, as required, in between the locking tabs so the ring is over the middle of the vertical cell. The no-tie chairs can replace the need for standard chairs when placed at a course where horizontal rebar is required. Place vertical rebar below, above, and adjacent to every opening (windows and doors). The vertical rebar should be placed as specified and according to local code. Vertical rebar should be extended to provide adequate overlap between cold joints. If allowed by code the vertical rebar can be placed in each cell, as required, after the concrete has been poured and is still wet. Make sure the rod is placed in the center of the cell and that it drops to the bottom of the wall section.

13 BRACING Bracing should be installed after the fourth or fifth course is built (depending on wind and other conditions), placing them every 10 to 12 feet along each wall section. Bracing supports the wall during the building process and keeps it plumb and straight during concrete placement. Standard 2x4 studs can be attached to either side of the wail and secured with snap ties near the bottom and top of the wall. 1. Using studs at least equal in length to the height of the planned wall, drill a 5/8 hole through the 2 dimension at 2-1/2 and at 7-1/2 to accommodate the snap ties. 2. Place the stud over the vertical lines between the cells on the face of the block. Make sure the 2-1/2 and 7-1/2 hole locations are not over a seam in the block. 3. Using the predrilled stud as a guide, drill straight through the wall at the webbing. Because you are drilling through the webbing, the snap ties can be reused after concrete placement. 4. Assemble the bracing with a stud on either side of the wall, a snap tie through the studs and wall, and a cleat on either side to sandwich the assembly. 5. Attach a turnbuckle or kicker to the vertical brace while securing it with a steel spike, wooden stake, or directly to the decking. Additional bracing should be attached to window and door buck openings using a turnbuckle. This is the minimum recommended bracing, with adjustments or additions as conditions require. It mus be adequate to safely support the wall under all conditions, especially in high winds.

14 OPENINGS A wooden frame (buck) will maintain the dimensions of your openings during concrete placement and they offer a traditional attachment surface for your doors and windows. The inside dimension of your bucks should be built to the rough opening (RO) dimensions required for each of your windows and doors. Vertical and horizontal bracing is required at approximately 20 on center to help carry the forces from the concrete. On large openings, concrete should not be placed completely on one side of the opening before placing any on the other side. Rather, both sides should be filled uniformly, negating the force of the wet concrete. WINDOW AND DOOR BUCKS Construct a buck to box out your desired rough opening using 2x10 s for the top and sides and two 2x4's for the bottom. The 2x4 bottom pieces are flush with the 2x10, providing a center gap to inspect below the opening and fill with concrete if needed. Treated lumber is normally only needed when bottom of opening is at or below ground level. Check with local code for requirements. 1. Cut the top 2x10 piece to length. The top piece will rest on the side pieces. 2. Cut two side 2x10 pieces so the length is equal to the height of the RO.

15 3. Cut two bottom 2x4 pieces to length. The bottom pieces will be under the side pieces. 4. Assemble the buck and place it in the appropriate location as the wall is built. The opening for the buck should leave 1/2 space on both sides for squaring and wall adjustment. 5. Secure the buck by attaching 1x4 flush to the buck on both sides of the wall, which will sandwich the buck in place. It can be easier to install the 1x4 to the exterior edge of the buck prior to setting it in place. 6. Concrete screws or anchors must be run through the buck prior to concrete placement, to secure the buck to the concrete. Two pieces of #4 rebar that are 4 wider than the opening must be placed in the row of block above every opening, allowing for 2 overlap to each side. One of these pieces may be eliminated if that course is scheduled to have rebar placed. Any lintel design should be checked by an engineer. A single piece of rebar must be placed in each column of cells on either side of every opening.

16 RADIUS OPENINGS 1. Build and install a standard window buck, RO sized appropriately less the radius section. 2. Continue building the wall around and above the window buck. Do not place any plastic screw channel or rebar in the radius location above the window buck. 3. Mark RO radius outline, adding for thickness of buck material, on both sides of the wall. 4. Cut through the wall along the radius outline markings using a reciprocating saw. Make certain to keep this cut accurate and square. 5. Place a section of sheet metal, the width of the block, into the cut made through the wall. This will close off the section between the sheet metal and the window buck. 6. After concrete has cured, remove the block within the radius opening and install buck material.

17 ATTACHING FLOORS, WALLS & ROOFS Attaching floors, walls, or roofs to the wall is quite simple but requires some advanced planning. There are many possibilities, and the following guidelines outline just a few of the methods. Please contact an representative for questions or assistance. FLOORS Floors can be attached using conventional methods or methods that have been developed for the systems. FOUNDATION WALLS ONLY - Joists may be supported on top of the wall using a conventional sill plate. Since the forms are 9-5/8" thick, a 2x10 is the recommended size of the sill plate. Pre-cut, pre-drill and install anchor bolts into sill plate, then placing it on top of the walls while the concrete is wet. When the concrete has properly set you can tighten the bolts and start framing. Since the concrete will shrink slightly, by tightening the bolts into the concrete you will create a sill seal into the foam. After the concrete has cured, the sill plates can be secured by hammer drilling holes for the appropriate anchors.

18 FOUNDATION WALLS WITH ABOVE GRADE WALLS - When continuing upward with the forms for additional stories, a rim joist is directly attached to the form. 1. Snap chalk lines to mark correct location of top and bottom of the rim joist. 2. Drill 6 holes in the block between the chalk lines and in the center of the vertical lines. The holes must stagger slightly up and down to stabilize the rim joist. The quantity and placement of anchor location should be by local code or specifications. 3. Screw in plastic anchor tunnels into the holes so they are flush with the wall. When the concrete is poured it flows against the outer face of the anchor tunnel, providing an anchor point and solid support for the rim joist. 4. When the concrete is cured, pre-drill the rim joist to match anchor tunnel pattern. 5. Position the rim joist with 2x4 on either end of section and hammer drill into concrete, securing with appropriate concrete anchors. 6. Fasten joist hangers to the rim joist per the hanger manufacturers instruction.

19 WALLS Walls of dissimilar construction are easily attached to walls by fastening the material into the concrete structure of the wall. The concrete is located behind the horizontal joints between courses and between the vertical lines on each block. ROOF CONNECTION Roofs are attached in much the same way as conventional floors, using a standard sill plate. 1. A sill plate of 2x10 is preferred to be anchored, as required, on top of the finished wall. 2. After sill plate is secured, trusses or conventional framing of almost any kind can be attached as required by local code.

20 FINISHES New methods or products should be tested in an inconspicuous area or on an extra form, to check for color, bond, or compatibility with the EPS foam. Some materials are incompatible with the EPS foam, such as petroleum based coatings. A partial list of compatible finishes is included with this manual on the Compatible Products page. BELOW GRADE WATERPROOFING The ENTIRE wall below grade must be waterproofed as with a typical poured wall below grade, using a system compatible with EPS foam. The wall itself will NOT stop water from entering the foundation. The preferred method used with is the rubberized waterproofing membrane. Be sure to follow the manufacturers' recommended methods for installation. Waterproofing should be placed within several days of planned backfilling, to prevent the rubberized membrane from sagging off of the wall due to sunlight. If the manufacturer will allow, a light coating of white spray paint will help to deflect the sunlight and keep the membrane cooler. Two people working together, with one on top leaning over the wall and the other at the bottom is usually the most efficient. The sheets of waterproofing must be long enough cover the height of wall and to the edge of the footing. Any standard groundbreaker can be used as a transition from below grade to the above grade finish material.

21 HEAVY OBJECTS When heavy objects (kitchen cabinets) or critical fastening points (hand rails) are installed, it is recommended to install a solid backing behind the location. This provides extra strength and flexibility in your placement of these objects. In the specified mounting location, the foam can be cut away and lumber attached directly to the concrete with adequate anchors. Drywall can be installed over the lumber to provide a clean finish. The object (kitchen cabinet) can then be installed on the drywall into the lumber behind. Plywood that is equal to the thickness of the drywall can be installed in place of the drywall at the desired location directly to the concrete with adequate anchors. Make sure that the object (kitchen cabinet) is large enough to cover the seam between the plywood and drywall. Attach the object directly to the plywood. PLASTIC SCREW CHANNEL INSTALLATION Plastic screw strip is placed in the grooves on the top and bottom of the block. This strip is installed to provide a fastening point for finish material such as drywall and provide stability to the wall assembly. Always leave 1 4 gap between each section of plastic screw strip. Always set back strip 1 2 from openings and intersections of walls. When strip is used on outside corner, cut through top and bottom groove on end of corner block using key hole saw. Strip can be placed at every course as needed per local code for fastening requirements.

22 DRYWALL The interior can now be finished by gluing and screwing drywall directly to the foam, using the plastic screw strip. Most building codes require that "Foamed Plastic" be covered with a I5 minute thermal barrier in all spaces including attics and basements. Be sure to check with local codes with regard to this. A 15 minute thermal barrier can be 1/2" drywall, or equivalent. If you will use wood base molding or an equivalent, please see the Molding section below. Apply a compatible adhesive to the back side of the drywall. (optional) Place drywall against the foam vertically and screw into the plastic screw strips. Confirm the type and spacing of fasteners with local code. Vertical installation of drywall will eliminate most butt joints. Because the drywall is installed over a solid wall, the joints do not need to be placed at a fastening point. This will reduce drywall waste and minimize cutting. MOLDING Base molding can be fastened to the system as follows: 1. Make strips of 1/2 OSB or plywood at least 1/2 smaller in width than the base molding. 2. Glue and fasten directly to the foam wherever base molding will be installed. 3. Stand the drywall on the rip and glue and screw it to the foam above the rip. 4. Attach the molding to the rip, making sure to cover the joint between the rip and the drywall. A similar technique can be used to attach built-up crown moldings.

23 EXTERIOR FINISHES Air barriers and vapor barriers are not normally required. Check with you local building code to confirm if barriers are needed. The exterior walls must be protected from sunlight by an exterior finish installed according to the manufacturers instruction. Above grade finishes range from brick, standard lap siding or assorted stucco finishes. HORIZONTAL SIDING Conventional horizontal siding must be installed by using wood furring strips. Spacing and fastening frequency of strips and fasteners must be done according to local code and the manufacturers instructions. A screen should be run along the bottom of the furring strips to keeps insects out, but allowing proper air flow behind the siding. Furring Strip Installation 1. After the concrete is placed and set, fasten using EPS compatible adhesive and standard concrete fastening tools. 2. Install the furring strips prior to placement of concrete using EPS compatible adhesive and screws. Apply EPS compatible adhesive to strip and set in place as needed. Galvanized screws that are 3-1/2 plus the thickness of the furring strips. Screws must pass through into cell allowing encasement during concrete placement.

24 VERTICAL SIDING Because the steel screw channel is installed horizontally, you are able to install vertical siding directly into the steel screw channel. The steel screw channel can be placed as needed in increments of 1 foot. Vertical siding must be installed according to the local code and manufacturers instruction. EIFS (Exterior Insulation Finish System) EIFS is a perfect finish for the EPS constructed. Follow the manufacturers recommended application procedure. BRICK VENEER Please contact an representative to discuss the options for creating a brick ledge and use of brick ties. Follow the manufacturers recommended application procedure.

25 PLUMBING & ELECTRICAL Most of the plumbing and electrical installation is done after concrete placement, except when services penetrate through the wall. Piping with a diameter greater than 3 inches should be installed prior to concrete placement. Use an appropriate sleeve (PVC works well) run through the wall and foamed in place. Piping with a diameter of 3 inches or less can be installed through the form web after the concrete has been placed. With this, your placement is dictated by webbing location. For interior piping with a diameter greater than 2 inches, run them inside the form wall before placing concrete or run it through interior walls. After concrete placement, electrical and other plumbing is easily installed in the walls with the use of a router, electric chain saw, hotwire knife and some common hand tools. 1. Identify and mark all boxes and fixture locations. 2. Cut into the foam for box locations. 3. Cut channels into the foam for the wire, conduit or piping. Channel width should be made so the wire fits snugly, holding it in place 4. The wires or pipes are then located in the channels and inserted into the boxes or fixtures. 5. Boxes are easily attached with fasteners or adhesive to the concrete structure of the wall. It is best to run wire or conduit horizontally through the center of the block, avoiding the plastic screw channels if possible. Be sure to follow all local electrical and plumbing codes when carrying out this task.

26 ESTIMATING MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS INTERBLOCK Block Required Total number of blocks - Calculate the total square footage of the walls, excluding the openings and divide by corner blocks - count the number of corners and multiply by the height (in feet). Standard blocks - Subtract the 90 corner number from the total number of blocks required. Because the blocks have no top or bottom and are in 9-5/8" cells, the waste factor is approximately 2%. In cases where there are corners other than 90 or the wall dimensions are not in 9-5/8" cells, the waste factor may be somewhat higher. Steel Requirements Below Grade Each block can use 4 feet of horizontal rebar and 5 feet of vertical rebar. Absolute quantities will depend on engineering specification and local codes. Do not forget to add for overlaps - approximately 2%. Concrete Required Each block requires 1/20th of a yard of concrete, therefore one yard will fill 20 blocks or 80 sq. ft. of wall surface. Minimum Concrete Specifications: Minimum 3,000 PSI in 28 days, aggregate must be 3/4" max, or pea gravel. The mix should be 5.5 Bag with reverse mix of the stone and sand proportions. Slump 5 to 6 inches.

27 FINAL CHECK & CONCRETE PLACEMENT Prior to concrete placement the wall should be checked for plumb, level, and square, making any necessary adjustments. Concrete should be a minimum of 3000 psi at 28 days. The aggregate must be a maximum of 3/4. The concrete should have a slump of 5 to 6. Contact the ready mix plant for correct mix design. A reverse mix where the proportions of aggregate and sand are reversed has proven to be successful. Placing concrete with a pump truck equipped with a double elbow to control the falling concrete is the recommended method. Concrete may also be placed with a conveyer, bucket, concrete pump or chute. An elephant trunk will simplify the process and reduce potential spillage. If you are going to continue upward with subsequent pours, be sure to cover the interlocking tabs on the top sides of the form to keep the interlock free of stray concrete. Consolidation of concrete is essential to a strong wall. This can be done with internal vibration, external vibrations, a block of wood and hammer or hand rodding. Be careful not to over-consolidate, as this can cause damage to the wall.

28 Successful Placement - When beginning the placement, use the same accepted pouring practices as for conventionally formed walls. The placement should be controlled and carefully monitored. Aim concrete at the connecting web on the top course of the wall to ease the flow of concrete into the cells. 1. Begin placing concrete at a corner and work the hose out approximately 12 feet from the corner in both directions. 2. Continue this pouring motion until the corner cell is filled to the top, prior to filling the rest of the wall. This solidifies the forms to the footing and allows the rest of the formwork to relax. 3. Pour the rest of the walls out from this corner, filling each cavity as you proceed along the wall. 4. Always fill the cavities below openings prior to filling above the opening. Always fill both sides of openings evenly to balance the force of concrete. 5. Consolidate walls as needed.

29 FINAL CHECK When the wall is completely poured and the concrete is still wet, check the wall again for straightness, plumb, and level. There is limited time to adjust, if necessary. Adjustments should be done using extreme care. Blow out - If forms are handled properly, blowouts should not occur. If there is a blowout in an wall, the wall will stay intact but an opening will be created that can easily be fixed. 1. Remove the piece of wall that has blown out. 2. Clean the concrete spill around the area and replace the blown out piece. 3. Use two pieces of lumber secured through the wall with snap ties and wedges to keep the piece in place. 4. Re-pour the blown out area. 5. Remove the lumber after the concrete is set. Concrete loss due to this type of blowout is minimal. You will not lose the entire wall and can continue your pour without much delay. NOTES ON BACKFILLING Backfilling of basement walls and retaining walls should be done in accordance with A.C.I requirements. Wall performance is improved if backfilling is done after the first floor is in place.

30 PRE-PLACEMENT CHECKLIST Date: Foreman: Job: Check off all items below prior to placing concrete in the walls. Is all bracing in place and secured? Is scaffolding installed and secured? String line along the top of all walls? Walls checked for plumb and straight? Are walls according to layout? Top course glued in place? Are all openings in place? Are bucks secured to wall? Are bucks cross braced? Are anchors placed in bucks? Is reinforcing in place as specified? Are all service penetrations installed? Are beam pockets installed? Have anchor tunnels been installed? Have the top row tabs been protected from concrete? Has proper concrete been ordered? Does concrete pump have reducer or truck have elephant trunk? This list is provided to assist in the concrete placement process. This list does not offer any guarantee.

31 INTERBLOCK CONVERSION CHART # CELLS LENGTH LENGTH # CELLS LENGTH LENGTH (feet inches) (meters) (feet inches) (meters) 1 0' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0' ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" ' 9 5/8" ' 9 5/8" ' 7 1/4" ' 7 1/4" ' 4 7/8" ' 4 7/8" ' 2 1/2" ' 2 1/2" ' 0" ' 0" If this chart is used to locate centers of cells for rebar, remember to start first bar at 4 7/8" and 9 5/8" thereafter. Bold characters define multiples of uncut forms. Maximum tolerance of this chart is + 1/4". One form = 9 5/8" Wide X 12" Tall X 48" Long =.244 m Wide X.305 m Tall X 1.22 m Long.

32 COMPATIBLE / SUPPORTING PRODUCTS FOR THE INTERBLOCK WALL SYSTEM The list of products is included for convenience only and in no way endorses, recommends, or is a comprehensive list. Consult with the listed manufacturer prior to using with Insulated Concrete Forms. Having ones name or product on this list does not constitute individual companies' approval or warranties. Footings Product Name Company Phone Website Form-A-Drain Certain Teed Corp certainteed.com Waterproofing Systems Product Name Company Phone Website Polyguard 650 Polyguard Products polyguardproducts.com Grace Waterproofing Products Grace Construction Products graceconstruction.com Aqua-Wrap Aquaseal aquasealusa.com Platon Armtec systemplaton.com Exterior Finishes Product Name Company Phone Website Perma Crete Quality Systems permacrete.com StoTherm EIFS Sto Corp stocorp.com Connection Systems Product Name Company Phone Website ICF-Connect ICF-Connect Ltd icfconnect.com ICF Ledger Connector System Simpson Strong-Tie Co simpsonstrongtie.com Adhesives Product Name Company Phone Website Trigger Foam Powers Fasteners powers.com Enerfoam Dow Chemical Company FOAM dow.com