REPAIR STANDARDS AND OPTIONS

Transcription

1 Chapter 4 Repair Standards and Options REPAIR STANDARDS AND OPTIONS NOTICE MOISTURE WARRANTY CORPORATION OFFERS THIS FREE INFORMATION AS A SERVICE TO REPAIR CONTRACTORS AND HOMEOWNERS TO ASSIST IN THEIR EFFORTS TO SOLVE THEIR MOISTURE-RELATED PROBLEMS. MOISTURE WAR- RANTY CORPORATION HAS NO AFFILIATION WITH ANY MANUFACTURER OR CONTRACTOR AND DOES NOT ENDORSE OR RECEIVE COMPENSATION OF ANY KIND FROM ANY PARTY OTHER THAN THE HOMEOWNER OR THEIR REPRESEN- TATIVE. FAILURE OF ANY TECHNIQUE USED IN THIS GUIDE IS FULLY THE RE- SPONSIBILITY OF THE HOMEOWNER OR REPAIR CONTRACTOR. MOISTURE WARRANTY CORPORATION CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY USE OF THIS FREE INFORMATION. Version

2 SECTION I INTRODUCTION In order to qualify a residential home for the MoistureFree Warranty, a qualified moisture inspection must be performed on the home. The inspection must follow the guidelines of the MoistureFree Inspection Protocol. These inspections often reveal problems related to caulking, flashing, rotting, or a series of other problems related to the stucco cladding. In order for a MoistureFree Warranty to be written on the entire home without exclusions, these areas must be repaired using techniques which are approved by MoistureFree Warranty. The following information comprises the MoistureFree Repair Standards and Options. This information is not intended for use with new applications of EIFS or other stucco systems. Always follow manufacturer s specifications on new installation projects. Moisture Warranty Corporation Position Statement After extensive research into the issues of moisture in stucco clad homes, it has been the experience of MWC that the vast majority of EIFS homes (85% to 90%) can be successfully remediated at a reasonable cost. The majority of the balance of these homes can be repaired and remediated, and do not require the removal of the cladding system. It is important that homeowners understand that most homes experience some type of moisture damage. The majority of this damage goes undetected. Moisture causes billions of dollars in hidden damage to all types of residential homes in the United States each year. Also, moisture causes substantially more damage each year than termites, ants, and other pests. By properly modifying and maintaining a stucco home, the odds of experiencing any substantial damage associated with moisture are dramatically reduced. Normal maintenance is all that should be required on the home following proper remediation. The vast majority of moisture problems associated with all types of homes is directly associated with: poor building standards and practices; more complex building envelopes built by generally less skilled labor; leaking windows and doors; and inappropriate use and application of the cladding system. 24

3 Repair Standards and Options Overview The repairs standards for the problems related to stucco systems vary greatly. Manufacturers and repair contractors use different techniques and materials for correcting the same problem. Some of the techniques work well, while others are flawed from the start. This repair and modification manual was developed to share important information about methods of repairing stucco systems that have been proven to work well in the field. It also provides the repair contractor a variety of repair options with different cost points in order to give homeowners more flexibility when deciding how to repair their homes. This is not a comprehensive repair guide with every known repair technique included. Rather, it is a collection of selected repair techniques that have been tested and proven to work effectively, provided that the techniques are executed properly using appropriate materials and good workmanship. Specific manufacturer s products are mentioned in this document as examples only. Other manufacturer s products may work equally well for a particular application, but are not mentioned. This may be due to the lack of available material necessary to evaluate the products, or the introduction of the product after the publication date of this guide. You should consult with the manufacturer of the product directly to verify the appropriate use of their product to solve a particular repair issue. Moisture Warranty Corporation strongly recommends that repair contractors attend training classes on standard repair and remediation techniques. Proof of certified training may be required in order to bid on some remediation and repair projects. Remediation Certification Courses: National Association of Home Builders Research Center Inc. EIFS Remediation Seminars (301) AWCI-Association of the Walls and Ceilings Industry International (new installation training) Most of the major EIFS manufacturers conduct installation and certification programs for new installation. 25

4 SECTION 4.2 CAULKING Proper caulking of an EIFS or other type of stucco home is critical to prevent moisture intrusion. Most homes were built without the recommended backer rod joints installed at many locations. However, retrofitting of a backer rod joint is not recommended since improper retrofitting is common and tends to increase the likelihood of moisture penetration. Several caulking and joint techniques have been developed which have proven to be successful for moisture problems associated with sealing joints and breaches in stucco systems. The recommended joint and caulking techniques shown in this publication should be installed by a trained waterproofing contractor. Improper preparation, installation, or materials will significantly reduce the service life of any sealant joint. Using caulking to simply fill in a crack which has the potential to expand or contract will fail. The special joint designs shown in this publication are designed to absorb the expansion and contraction that will occur on all stucco surfaces. Areas that do not tend to expand or contract at a significant rate, such as window construction elements, should be caulked using the appropriate techniques and materials demonstrated in this publication. 26

5 Caulking Overview The caulking or sealant used on a stucco home is absolutely critical to the long-term durability of the stucco system. Selecting the right caulking is not always easy to accomplish. Different surfaces and materials require different types of caulking. It is not uncommon to use two or three different types of caulking on the same home, depending on the location and types of surfaces the caulking is being used to protect. Equally important is the proper application of the caulking that is selected. Surface preparation can dramatically influence the useful life of the caulking material and can make the difference between a caulk joint that works and one that fails. Once you have selected an appropriate caulk, make sure to follow the manufacturer s instructions for its application. Each manufacturer has different recommendations about the surface preparation and application technique that works best with their product. Never assume that one technique will work well with all caulking materials. Knowing where and how to apply caulking to a stucco home is also critical. Caulking the home for aesthetic purposes can often make the problem worse by closing or blocking areas where moisture would otherwise escape to the atmosphere. Make sure you know where and how caulking should be applied before attempting to seal a stucco home. Where Stucco Meets Breaches A breach in a stucco home is any opening that penetrates the stucco system. Doors, windows, vents, utility service, outlets and other elements of the home s exterior are considered breaches. Typically, a breach location will also mean a transition from a stucco surface to some other type of surface, such as wood, metal or a different elevation of stucco. Many stucco systems were designed as monolithic barrier systems, meaning that they were intended to completely seal the home from rain. However, this design has proven to have problems due to the difficulty in maintaining seals around and within openings, such as windows which often leak within the window itself, not just where the stucco meets the window at the frame. Leaks in the construction of windows accounts for about 60% of all leaks associated with stucco systems. Most joints located at breaches can typically be sealed using a properly shaped caulk joint with a bondbreaker backing to allow for proper expansion. Retrofitting of backer rod joints is typically not necessary and can often cause more moisture problems due to improper installation. However, installation of new EIFS or other stucco systems should always follow manufacturer s specifications, which typically include the installation of backer rod joints. Hardcoat or traditional stucco (one coat, three coat, cement, plaster and metal lath systems) homes typically require both vertical and horizontal expansion joints. The cement that is used to construct a hardcoat stucco system does not have the elasticity of EIFS or synthetic stucco systems. Therefore, expan- 27

6 sion joints allow the hardcoat stucco system to expand without causing extensive surface cracking that can allow moisture penetration and detract from the home s appearance. Caulk Joint Design Good joint design in the construction industry dictates that a joint should be designed to withstand an expansion of four times (4x) the anticipated movement of the building surface. Therefore, an anticipated expansion of 1/8 should have a joint constructed to withstand 1/2 of movement. In residential construction, this type of joint is reasonable at the time of the original construction, but may be too costly or complicated when modifying an existing structure since the gaps necessary to make such a joint may not have been built into the original design of the home. A minimum 2:1 expansion ratio for existing construction is typically adequate for existing residential construction on homes that are at least two years old. The majority of expansion that will occur on a home that is two years old or older will mainly consist of temperature-related expansion. Therefore, a joint with an anticipated expansion of 1/8 should be designed to withstand a total of 1/4 of expansion. Surface Preparation Each manufacturer has specific surface preparation requirements which should be followed precisely in order to ensure the longest possible service life of the caulk. Generally, a minimum preparation requires that the surfaces be clean, dry, and free from any foreign matter. Typically, caulking manufacturers recommend the abrasion or removal of the finish coat of the stucco to ensure proper adherence of the caulk to the base coat of the EIFS, which contains the reinforced fiberglass mesh. Adhesion promoters, such as spray lacquer can sometimes be used to promote adhesion in lieu of removal of the finish coat. EIFS often requires priming in order to promote a secure bonding of the caulking material. Again, always confirm the exact specifications from the caulking manufacturer before using their product on any stucco system. 28

7 Common Caulking Joints When there is any significant chance of expansion or contraction at a joint, it is critical that the caulk be shaped to allow for the caulking material to absorb the stress without detaching from either surface. This shaping is accomplished by the installation of a backing material that serves two purposes. The first purpose is to shape the caulk so that the most elastic part of the joint is in the middle. Like a rubber band, a proper caulk joint will adhere to the opposing surfaces and stretch in the middle to cover any gap that is created by expansion. The second purpose of the backing material is to assure that the caulk DOES NOT adhere to the back corner of the joint, or to the edges of the gap that the joint is intended to protect. Avoid the Solid Triangle Shaped Joint The intersection of a joint often forms a 90 degree angle with perpendicular surfaces. If caulk is applied without the use of a backing material or a bond breaker, the caulk forms a triangle shape. The triangle is the least desirable shape for a caulk joint since a triangle is by design extremely strong. The strength of the triangle shape often reduces the elasticity of the caulking material and tends to pull loose the adhesion from one of the opposing surfaces. The Hour Glass Is The Most Desirable Fillet Joint Shape Backer material in the shape of a quarter round or triangle will shape the caulk joint so that the most elastic part of the joint is in the middle. Also, since the caulk does not adhere to the backing material, the caulking material stretches in the direction of the opposing surface. Using backing material allows the joint to assume an Hour Glass shape which dramatically improves the performance of the joint. 29

8 At the very least, a bond breaker material, such as bond breaker tape, should be used to ensure that the back edge of the caulk joint doesn t adhere to the surfaces, since this will most likely force the caulking material to release from one of the opposing surfaces. Bond breaker tape allows the back edges of joint to stretch. Otherwise these edges would pull the outer edges loose from the opposing surfaces. Butt Joints And Backer Rod Commercial applications require the use of a Butt Joint with a backer rod component. Residential installation may require this type of joint if the total expected expansion exceeds 1/2 or more. Typically, residential walls do not expand more than 1/4 unless the span between breaches or breaks (typically corners) is more than 15 feet. Retrofitting a Butt Joint with backer rod into an existing residential installation is NOT recommended unless the joint is clearly at risk of expansion in excess of 1/4 or more. If a Butt Joint is installed, it must be installed using original manufacturer s specifications. This typically requires the removal of the stucco system around the breach (approximately 6 ) and the reapplication of the system using back wrapping of the mesh around the reapplied EPS board. Also, it is critically important that the backer rod be placed into the gap between the system and the breach at a uniform depth. Otherwise, the caulk will be uneven and tend to pull away from the opposing surfaces. NOTE: Butt Joints should NEVER be applied using a cavity made with a router or other boring or cutting equipment, since this typically damages the edges of the system and cuts through any back wrapping that is installed. Remember, caulking does not adhere to the EPS board and should typically be applied to the reinforced base coat rather than the finish coat. 30

9 Parallel Surface Caulk Joints There are several options available to caulk surfaces that are even and parallel to each other. However, a parallel caulk joint is one of the most difficult joints to correctly install. Band Aid Joint The Band Aid joint is designed two span to opposing surfaces which are on an even plane. Both surfaces must be properly prepared to receive the caulking material as specified by the caulking manufacturer. The gap or area of expansion between the two surfaces should be covered with a bond breaking material in order to allow the caulk to expand freely over the gap. Accent Band Solution Since Band Aid joints are difficult to install and can fail if not installed properly, many repair contractors have elected to install accents on top of joints with parallel surfaces. This allows the gap between the surfaces to be sealed by the accent and the edges sealed using a more reliable Fillet Joint on the two new edges, which are perpendicular to each other. See page 31 for accent band details. 31

10 Backer Rod With Flashed Edge On A Parallel Surface Joint ServSeal V SHAPED FLASHING DETAIL DESIGNED TO LOCK INTO BREACH. Backer Rod With Flashed Edge On A Parallel Surface Joint The installation of a V shaped flashing element which overlaps the stucco system and provides a stable edge is another possible solution to sealing a parallel joint. Since the caulking that spans that joint has two solid surfaces to adhere to, and can be shaped using a backer rod element, the joint has a much lower chance of failing. Installing this type of joint takes some training and is not recommended without the preengineered V flashing. Contact ServSeal for installation information and to purchase supplies at ( V flashing method patent pending.) 32

11 Accent Band/ Brick Mold Solution Detail Accent Band Solution Detail Using a material such as brick mold trim or a second elevation of EIFS, an accent band can serve to provide an acceptable shape in which to apply proper caulk joints. The 90 degree angles allow for the application of fillet joint which typically provide adequate expansion necessary to successfully seal a joint. The trim piece should be attached to only one of the opposing surfaces since this allows the trim piece to float over the opposing surface. Always confirm that the caulking is appropriate to the surfaces being used since they may be different on either side of the accent piece. Brick Mold Solution Detail (not shown) By adding additional brick mold or replacing the brick mold with thicker material, a 90 degree angle can be created. This allows the application of a proper fillet joint. Unlike the detail shown above, the brick mold is typically even with the exterior edge of the window or door casing and does not overlap the EIFS. 33

12 Expansion Joint Expansion Joint Expansion joints are more commonly found in traditional or hardcoat stucco homes where the risk of cracking is more prevalent. The expansion joint allows the surface of the stucco to expand and contract without cracking, bulging or delaminating from the substrate. Vertical and horizontal expansion joints are common on hardcoat stucco homes where the cementitious components are prone to stress cracks. EIFS does not usually require vertical expansion joints, but may require horizontal expansion joints to prevent bulging or wrinkling at the floor lines due to settling and wood shrinkage. However, if a home is more than 3 years old and has not experienced any problems related to the absence of expansion joints, then expansion joints should not normally be retrofitted. 34

13 B. Caulking Materials And Uses There are hundreds of different caulking materials on the market which claim to be designed for use on the exterior of homes. However, stucco homes, and specifically EIFS homes require special types of caulking which must be applied using proper techniques to ensure the longest possible service life. Caulking is not intended to be a permanent solution to moisture intrusion, but rather a component of the home s weather barrier which will require repair and replacement from time to time. Properly installed caulk joints should last anywhere from three years up to 15 or 20 years. Proper selection and application of the caulking material is critical to a long service life. The following brand names and types of sealants have been used successfully on many stucco homes. ALWAYS CHECK THE MANUFACTUER S SPECIFICATIONS TO ASSURE THAT THE PRODUCT YOU ARE USING IS SUITED TO THE PARTICULAR APPLICA- TION. Manufacturer Dow Corning Sealant: Dow Corning 790, 791, 795 Note: Dow Corning products will not hold paint, but have excellent service life and are available in a variety of colors to match almost all stucco systems. Dow Corning is the most commonly-used caulk for stucco systems. Tremco, Inc. Sealant: Dymeric 511 Tremco, Inc. Sealant: Spectrem 3 Pecora Corporation Pecora Corporation Sealant: Dynatrol II Sealant: 890 Silicone Mameco International Sealant: Vulkem 922 Sika Corporation Sealant: Sikaflex 2C or 1A GE Sealant: Silpruf LM (SCS 2700) Chemrex Sealant: Sonneborn Sonolastic NP 1 Bostik Sealant: Chem-Caulk

14 Wind-Lock Corporation is a supplier to the EIFS industry and can provide most types of materials and tools necessary for EIFS. They also can answer most question about system installation. Contact Wind-Lock at or at ( System fasteners Starter track Backer Rod Caulking Kickout flashings Specialty tools Specialty flashings IMPORTANT 1. Many of these sealants require special application procedures, including priming, stripping or curing. If the specific manufacturer s installation procedures are not followed, the durability of the sealant can be reduced to a fraction of its intended service life. 2. If you know the manufacturer of the stucco system, always verify that the manufacturer endorses the sealant that you intend to use to ensure that there are no chemical or structural conflicts between the system and the sealant. 3. If you do not know who manufactured the stucco components on the home, use one of the products listed above which has shown acceptable service life in the past on other stucco systems. 4. When caulking areas which do not include a stucco component (wood to glass, metal to glass, wood to wood, etc.), confirm that the caulk you are using is appropriate to the joint that you intend to seal. Do s and Don ts of Caulking 1. Don t caulk any surface that has not been properly prepared according to the caulking manufacturer s standards. The surface should always be free of dust, moisture, grease, solvents, or any other material that could reduce the performance of the caulk. 2. Taping the joint in order to achieve a uniform appearance is recommended. 3. DO NOT use a latex-based caulk on the exterior of a home. Latex-based caulks are intended for interior use only and will not perform well when exposed to the extremes of outdoor use. 4. Sealant application by the homeowner or other unqualified individuals is discouraged. A professional waterproofing contractor can select the appropriate types of sealants and application methods necessary to protect a home. 36

15 SECTION 4.3 KICKOUT FLASHING Missing kickout flashings account for approximately 30% of the sheathing damage and nearly 73% of the framing damage on stucco homes. Since large volumes of water can enter into the wall cavity at these locations, it is critical that they be modified. Locations that are missing a kickout flashing but are not leaking should still have a kickout flashing installed since these areas can fail over time. A kickout flashing can be retrofitted into an existing stucco home and will function properly under normal conditions. Properly installed kickout flashings have a failure rate of less than 3% to 5% under normal conditions. Understanding how to install a proper kickout flashing is critical. The following diagrams and products can help to make installation easier and effective. However, Moisture Warranty Corporation strongly recommends that repair contractors attend training classes on standard repair and remediation techniques. 37

16 Kickout Flashings Where Kickout Flashings Are Needed Kickout flashings are required in areas where a roof line intersects with a wall. The circled X shows where a kickout flashing should be located, but is missing. Behind the stucco, step flashing has been installed, but terminates at the bottom of the roof line. This causes water flowing along the step flashing to enter into the wall cavity at the point where the step flashing ends. Note that the gutter typically is installed against the stucco, while the step flashing is behind the stucco. This creates the gap where water enters the wall cavity. This photo shows a properly-installed kickout flashing. Step flashing is clearly visible which allows the free flow of water down to the kickout flashing, which then diverts the water into the gutter or off the roof edge if there is no gutter. Raising the stucco off the roofing shingles prevents damming by debris and also will allow the easier replacement of the roofing shingles once their service life is expired. When kickout flashing is installed without raising the stucco off the roof line, it is critically important that a weep hole be left at the kickout location in order to encourage the free flow of water and reduce the chance of damming at the kickout location. This photo shows a minimal weep hole opening. Installers are encouraged to expose the step flashing at least 2 off of the roof line in order to promote the free flow of water and allow for proper inspection. Kickout flashings are required at roof/wall intersections. Wherever the bottom of a roof line butts into a vertical wall, a kickout needs to be installed. The staining which is apparent under the gutter at the edge of the roof in this photo is typical of an area that damaged by moisture. 38

17 Kickout Flashings Secondary Kickout Primary Kickout Secondary Kickout Spotting Kickout Locations There are 8 missing kickout locations on this home. Out of the 8 missing kickouts, 4 are primary kickout locations which are at the highest risk of failure and 4 are secondary kickout locations at a lower risk of failure. Primary Kickouts In the center of the home where the roof edges terminate against a wall (roof/wall intersection), kickout flashings must be installed. Also, where the roof edge terminates on either side of the chimney chase, kickout flashings must be installed. Secondary Kickouts These smaller roof/wall intersections (sometimes called Queen Anne's, saddles or roof returns) typically have a secondary slope away from the wall, which reduces the chances of failure. MoistureFree Warranty requires that these areas be tested for moisture, but does not always require a kickout flashing to be installed at these locations as long as they are sufficiently sealed. Damage From Missing Kickout Locations Substrate and framing member damage is common at missing kickout locations. In areas where the framing feels soft when probed, further investigation should be conducted to determine the extent of the damage. This is most easily accomplished by removal of a small portion of the interior drywall in the immediate area. Special attention should be paid to the stability of the rim or floor joist band located below a missing kickout location. 39

18 Proper Kickout Flashing Installation Kickout Flashing Installation A properly installed kickout flashing is mounted behind the last piece of step flashing, and all joints of the kickout construction should be completely sealed. The kickout flashing should rest at a 90 degree angle to the surface of the shingles and should not tilt away from the roof pitch since this may cause water to angle up and over the kickout during heavy rains. The opening around the backside and bottom of the kickout should be thoroughly sealed to prevent leaking. The edge of the EIFS along the roof should not block the free flow of water toward the kickout flashing. The kickout flashing should always be kept free of debris and blockage. 40

19 SECTION 4.4 WINDOW & DOOR REMEDIATION Windows account for approximately 64% of the moisture found behind various types of stucco systems. Therefore, special care must be taken to insure that the areas around the window and within the window construction are thoroughly sealed. Doors do not contribute significantly to the overall moisture problem, but can be difficult to correct in some situations. The caulking and flashing techniques demonstrated are intended to provide common solutions to most of the moisture problems associated with windows and doors. However, repair contractors are encouraged to seek additional assistance when attempting to remediate a window or door system with which they are not familiar, or when they lack confidence in the solutions provided when applied to a particularly difficult situation. When caulking around the perimeter of windows and doors, refer to Section I Caulking. When caulking the construction components of a window or door, expansion and contraction is less of a concern, but proper placement of the caulk joint is absolutely critical to a successful outcome. Always confirm that the type of caulk being used is appropriate for the intended solution and is compatible with the surfaces being caulked. 41

20 Typical Problems With Windows The photos shown below illustrate some of the common problems with windows. Many wood windows in homes with almost any type of cladding, including brick and wood, experience leaking in these areas. Poor window design and construction has led to many of the moisture problems associated with stucco homes. This miter joint location on a double-hung window has common damage to the sill caused by moisture rotting the wood. When caulking these areas, it is important that the surface be stable and not have wood rot or peeling paint which could compromise the adhesion of the sealant. This photo shows a home with the EIFS removed. The dark area under the corner of the window shown above is typical of a leaking miter joint. The window shown above is a metal window with miters that were never properly sealed. The arrows point toward mullions. A mullion is the joint between two windows which are ganged together. The area directly below the mullion is highly susceptible to moisture since there are two miter joints that come together at these locations. Also, the sealing of the area between the two windows is often inadequate. 42

21 Sealing Window Systems By lifting both sashes of the window it is usually possible to access the area behind the sash track in order to seal and caulk the area. DO NOT CAULK IN FRONT OF THE SASH TRACK SINCE THIS CAN TRAP MOISTURE BEHIND THE TRACK. Caulking the miter joint of all windows is critical. When a sash track is present, always caulk BEHIND the track and up the edges at least 6. If raw wood is present, it should be primed before caulking. Remember, caulking will not adhere to wet wood. 1. Caulk all jamb and sill intersections 2. Prime paint any raw wood behind the sash tracks 3. Caulk openings behind the sash track 4. If possible, trim the bottom of the sash track (1/8 ) in order to promote free flow of rain water from the window sill. Be careful not to damage the lift spring mechanism of some windows. Approximately 64% of all moisture problems related to stucco homes occur at window locations. About 90% of those problems are directly related to leaks that occur within the construction of the window. These areas must be repaired and maintained with proper sealant and paint. The arrow in this photo point to the miter joint of the window which is a very high risk area for moisture intrusion. 43

22 Area Behind The Sash Track On A Typical Double-Hung Wood Window The Sash Track Take care when pulling back the sash track. UV damage can make some tracks fragile. Caulking and paint may need to be removed in order to pull back the track. Other joints behind the sash track in the construction of the window may also allow moisture entry and must be sealed at least six inches up from the miter joint. The Miter Joint behind the sash track contributes significantly to moisture intrusion and must be sealed. This close up photo of a miter joint behind the sash track shows moisture penetration that has stained the wood. No excessive damage was found at this location, but the moist wood makes it difficult to adhere caulk to the effected area. Caulking and Sealing Behind The Sash Track 1. Raise both sashes as high as they will go. Gently pull the sash track back to expose the lower 6 to 10 of the jamb. BE CAREFUL when pulling the track back from the window. Some tracks are fragile and may break. 2. If the area is wet, allow the area to dry out for several days with the area exposed to open air, but protected from moisture. 3. Check to ensure that the surface wood is clean and dry before applying any sealer or caulk. 4. Apply a water-proof wood sealer if the wood behind the track is not already primed or sealed at least 6 above the miter joint. Allow the primer to dry. 5. Apply caulking or polybutylene tape to the miter joint and all exposed joints at least 6 up from the miter joint. 6. Polybutylene tape can be used to bridge over areas behind the sash track that have very slight moisture damage. 44

23 Sealing Window Miter Joints DO NOT caulk in front of the sash track! This photo shows caulking which has been applied in front of the sash track which is incorrect. Moisture that may get behind that sash track will be trapped and will cause more damage to the wall and/or window. Caulking and sealing MUST be placed behind the sash track at the miter joint. WRONG! Caulking MUST be behind the sash track! Crack at miter joint Seal All Window Joints This close up photo of the area behind the sash track shows raw wood and an open crack along the miter joint. Also, the paint is peeling and will not hold caulking. The area must be properly prepared before caulking and waterproofing is applied. 45

24 Injection Sealing Of The Window Construction If removal of the sash track is very difficult or impossible without damaging the track, the process shown is a possible solution. The system shown above uses a two-stage waterproofing compound which will seal both the wood and the joint without the removal of the tracks. Two small holes are drilled into the center of the sash track, and a special injector system forces the compound behind the track and into the joint. This system is licensed through ServSeal. Contact ServSeal for more information or to purchase supplies call (injection sealing process patent pending). 46

25 Brick Mold, Concealed Sill Pan Design (For use in new construction or when windows are being replaced) Primarily used for new construction, the advantages of this design include the hiding of the drain pan flashing by using an EIFS accent. In areas where accent bands are not desirable, another installation method should be used. Complete caulking of the new window system should also be included in the installation process. Always consult with the window manufacturer to verify that the window is designed for use in an EIFS or hardcoat stucco home. MoistureFree does not recommend using any window systems that are not specifically guaranteed for use in stucco clad structures. 47

26 Nailing Fin, Concealed Sill Pan Design (For use in new construction or when windows are being replaced) The nailing fin window requires special attention to ensure that flashing and pan systems which are built into the window design function properly with the stucco system installed around the window. It is important to ensure that none of the weep or drain systems in the window are blocked by the stucco cladding. This detail is primarily used for new construction. 48

27 Sill And Threshold Drain Pan Systems Drain pan systems are becoming a standard in new construction and are used in existing construction in areas where caulking and other modifications have failed. On some custom built windows, oversized windows and some doors, a drain pan may be required mostly due to failures in the glazing or caulking. Typically, drain pans should be used when other options, such as caulking, have failed. However, if the window is being replaced, a drain system or drainable flashing should be installed since it is relatively easy and inexpensive to install these systems at that time. For more information about the Sill Sentry system shown above contact: Sto Corporation, 6175 Riverside Drive SW, Atlanta, GA Tel: (404) ; Fax: (404) Alternative Sill Pan Systems For more information on this system, contact Jamsill, Inc

28 Door & Window Head Flashing Many doors and windows are missing head flashings. However, if the area is dry and does not appear to be at risk of failing, then retrofitting of head flashings is discouraged. Retrofitting a head flashing on a door or window can be done without having to re-backwrap the system. The cavity is lined with elastomeric tape and the cavity is sealed using a silicone-based caulk. The backer rod angles the flashing and the ends of the flashing are dammed at least 1/2. Contact ServSeal for more information or to purchase supplies at

29 Window or Door Perimeter Accent Joint This detail is similar to the detail shown on page 31. By creating a 90 degree angle at the joint, it is possible to make a more effective seal around the perimeter. Also, the accent that is added can serve as a drip edge which moves moisture farther away from the joint and the breach. Illustration by ServSeal, Copyright ServSeal

30 Door Modification Options Exterior doors installed in stucco homes often present similar problems to windows and the solutions to these problems are also very similar. Sliding Doors Sliding doors often are found to leak at the threshold and jamb location similar to windows leaking at the miter joints. The opening and closing of a sliding door frequently damages the caulking seal at the miter joint and allows moisture penetration. Re-sealing the miter joint may solve the problem, but continued use of the door often tends to damage the new seal after time. A permanent solution to leaking miter joints in doors is the installation of a drain pan system Installation of a drain pan system under a door usually requires the removal of the door, which is a relatively costly repair. On doors that are not frequently used, the homeowner may elect to try resolving the problem using a caulking repair before going to the expense of a drain pan installation. For frequently used doors, a drain pan installation may be the only permanent solution. Wooden French And Glass Panel Doors Exterior doors which contain any element of glass and are made of wood run the risk of leaking through the construction of the door. These leaks often occur where the glass joins with the wood. Glazing is used to seal the area where the glass joins the wood, but it is common to find that this glazing seal has failed and allows water to pass through the construction of the door. Usually, this type of glazing failure will damage or rot the wooden door, but doesn t necessarily damage areas under the door frame. However, if there are openings in the door frame, and in particular the hearth area, moisture can pass through into the wall cavity below the door. Attempt to repair the area of the door where the glazing has failed with an appropriate caulk. Regular painting of the door is also recommended in order to reduce UV damage to the caulking, which is very common. Also, caulk the miter joint area of the door frame in a first effort to try to stop any moisture penetration below the door. If caulking does not correct the problem, a door pan drain may be required to protect the wall area below the door. Door Head Flashings Door head flashings should have been installed during the original installation of the door, but are commonly missing from many exterior doors. Retrofitting a missing head flashing should be done when leaks are clearly originating from the top of the door frame. MoistureFree Warranty only requires the retrofit installation of door head flashings when moisture or damage is present at the top of the door and the cause is a missing head flashing. 52

31 SECTION 4.5 CHIMNEY & DORMER DETAILS Moisture problems associated with chimneys are typically caused by inadequate or missing flashing and caulking. Additionally, details such as crickets and caps which divert water away from the chimney are often missing. Leaks that do occur at the chimney and in the chimney chase can often allow moisture to penetrate all the way down to the first floor joist band since these areas are usually left open and do not typically have baffle insulation. Chimney caps which are inadequate or missing must be installed to prevent moisture from entering through openings between the flue and stucco termination. Kickout flashings are usually required when the roof edge terminates at or along either side of the chimney. These flashings must be installed. A cricket should be considered when the roof running toward the chimney is likely to allow rain water to push up under the flashing along the edge of the roof and chimney. Dormers rarely experience moisture problems. However, the detail shown in this publication indicates the proper method of flashing and sealing a dormer window. 53

32 Chimney Repairs And Modifications Chimneys are a common source of water intrusion into both the wall cavity and living space of the home. Homeowners often believe that a roof problem is causing a leak, when in fact it is a failure of the flashing or sealing of the chimney. Figure 3 above shows a cricket installation that joins with two kickout flashings on either side of the chimney. It is very common to find these kickout flashings missing from the chimney flashing system. Extensive damage is also common in the chimney chase where open frame construction allows the free flow of water throughout the chase construction. Flat accent bands around the chimney should be caulked and chimney caps should extend over the entire top of the chimney and over any accents that are located at the top of the chimney. 54

33 Dormer Flashing 55

34 Roof/Wall, Chimney And Dormer System Termination Option EIFS should be terminated 2 to 2.5 above the roof edge, but most homes have the system in contact with the roof shingles. This typically does not cause a moisture problem in itself, but will eventually interfere with the replacement of the roof shingles. Simply cutting the system back without additional flashing may cause moisture to penetrate behind the system when exposed to heavy rains. The termination shown above prevents moisture from penetrating the system by providing additional flashings to protect the lower edge of the system. Contact ServSeal for more information or to purchase supplies at

35 SECTION 4.6 Decks, Stairs, And Other Attachments It is common to find missing or inadequate flashing and sealing at decks and other attachments to a stucco home. Because these areas have the potential to cause significant damage to the areas behind or below the attachment, they should be modified to prevent moisture damage. Two options are shown for retrofitting attachment flashings. The first details show the proper flashing that should be installed during the original construction. This detail is difficult to retrofit to the home since it typically requires the removal of the attachment. The second option does not require the removal of the attachment and will typically protect the area adequately when properly installed. The second option is significantly less expensive to retrofit than the first option. Special attention should be paid to the framing members located behind and under the attachment. If any significant damage has been done by moisture intrusion to these areas, they should be replaced. Always make sure that the framing of the attachment is securely bolted through the framing of the home. 57

36 Proper Flashing Of Decks, Stairs And Other Attachments The three-part deck flashing shown above prevents moisture from penetrating at and below the deck attachment. Proper sealing of the bolts used to secure the deck joist band to the house joist band is also required. Many stucco homes will often have the lower deck flashings behind the deck joist band, but are missing the upper flashing which starts behind the stucco system and extends over the front of the deck joist band. This is a critical error in the flashing design since any moisture that is able to penetrate behind the deck joist band is trapped behind the stucco system below. Retrofitting of the upper flashing element is often required to prevent moisture penetration at these locations. 58

37 Additional Attachment Flashing Detail This flashing detail further illustrates the need for a compound flashing at the deck location. Retrofitting of the upper flashing element may require the removal of the stucco cladding approximately 2 above the deck level. The flashing is then installed behind the system and the lower edge is back-wrapped and sealed. 59

38 Alternate Retrofit Deck Flashing Detail Deck flashings are missing or improperly installed on a large percentage of homes. Installing the flashing based on the manufacturer s new installation recommendations can be very expensive. The retrofit method shown in these details provides an effective and less expensive alternative for deck flashings. Retrofit Deck Flashing Detail 1 If the deck boards are running parallel to the house, then the removal of the first two deck boards is all that is typically necessary. However, if the deck boards are running perpendicular to the house, all of the deck boards may need to be removed. If the deck is not secured with bolts which extend through the rim joists of the home, then this should be done for safety reasons while the area is being modified. Retrofit Deck Flashing Detail 2 Place caulking between the flashing and the deck joists to prevent moisture from running along the tops of the joists back to the starter joist. The flashing that is used for this repair should be thoroughly sealed and sloped away from the home. End dams on the flashing must be at least 3/4 high. Illustrations by ServSeal, Copyright ServSeal

39 SECTION 4.7 Patios and Stoops Concrete patios and stoops can present problems that are difficult to detect, and even more difficult to modify. It is common for these attachments to the home to be added after the majority of the construction of the home has been completed, or even years after the home was built. Since the EIFS is commonly installed on homes prior to the completion of the exterior finish grading, attachments such as concrete porches and stoops are commonly installed against the EIFS system. This means that it is common for the EIFS to be trapped between the house and the patio or stoop. If the EIFS extends to ground level, the home may experience pest problems in this area. Since there is no effective method of reaching the affected area behind the patio or stoop, termite and ant problems can go undetected and untreated. If the patio or stoop was not properly flashed to prevent run-off water from leaking into the area between the house and the attachment, moisture damage can occur. There is typically no effective method of testing for the presence of moisture because the area can t be reached with a moisture meter. It is sometimes possible to investigate from the inside of the home if there is an exposed crawl space or basement which allows access to the area. If no access is available, it may be possible to cut away a portion of the stucco system to determine if the EPS (insulation board) runs behind the attachment. Remember, areas where the EIFS terminates below grade are highly prone to pest damage. Some type of investigation should be done to determine if there is EIFS trapped between the house and the attachment. Removal of the patio or stoop may be necessary if it is not possible to eliminate the EPS board any other way. However, alternative methods are shown in the diagrams that follow. 61

40 Porch and Stoop Remediation Method (Use when the patio or stoop overlaps the wood framing of the home) Step 1: A gap is cut above the area to allow access. Step 2: ServSeal Foam Melter solution is poured behind the area to dissolve the EPS board behind the attachment. Do not use flammable or toxic solutions to dissolve foam. Step 3: Fill void with properly cured hydro-cement. Make sure that the area being filled is not open to the crawl space or basement. Allow the cement to properly cure. Step 4: Terminate the bottom of the system using an overlapping flashing method which is properly sealed. Caulk between substrate and flashing. Caulk between overlapped flashing. Call to purchase supplies or for more information. 62

41 Porch and Stoop Termination Methods (Use when the patio or stoop DOES NOT overlap the wood framing of the home) When the EIFS butts directly against a patio or stoop, it is difficult to determine if the system is sealed against pests. The technique shown here provides both a pest barrier and a seal against moisture flowing behind the system. The system shown below incorporates an active pest control barrier with injected pesticide. This system is licensed through Serv Seal Corporation and is serviced exclusively by Orkin. Illustrations by ServSeal. Call for information. Caulk between substrate and flashing. Caulk between overlapped flashing. Call to purchase supplies or for more information. 63

42 SECTION 4.8 Other Breaches and Accents All breaches in stucco systems should be sealed to prevent moisture intrusion. Even small holes created by shutter and downspout attachments should be properly sealed. Special attention should be paid to areas which are inclined to be damaged by repeated impact, such as hose bibbs and electrical outlets. The diagrams shown above represent the proper treatment of plumbing and electrical penetrations through EIFS on new construction. The MoistureFree Warranty requires adequate sealing of these areas using appropriate caulking materials. However, the retrofitting of backer rod joints in these areas is not required or recommended. 64

43 Shutter, Wiring, And Other Penetration Treatment Shutters are commonly attached using screws that penetrate through the stucco and into the substrate without being properly sealed. Moisture that penetrates into the screw holes often softens the substrate and allows the shutter to detach or the hole to enlarge with wind movement. Proper attachment of shutters and other decorative items should be completed as shown above. Electrical wiring should be installed using a protective sleeve or grommet in order to prevent moisture penetration and protect the wiring from damage caused by movement against the stucco. 65

44 Service Connections And Breaches Most service connections are installed after the home is nearly complete. It is common for these breaches to be left completely unsealed. Moisture and pests can enter through these open breaches. Proper sealing of these breaches and fasteners used to attach the connection should be installed. Properly sealed connection prevent moisture and pests from entering the system. Flat Accents Flat accents around windows and doors need to be caulked in order to prevent moisture from seeping through small holes in the EIFS. Caulking these areas with a color-matching siliconebased caulk will typically protect the area. Since there is limited expansion that occurs at these locations, a standard fillet joint is acceptable. New installation or replacement of an accent should include a slope of no less than 15 degrees to promote the drainage of water from the top of the accent. However, on accents under 1.5 in depth, retrofitting of these slopes is not required since damage at these locations is typically limited. Accents over 1.5 should be modified to include a slope. Parapet walls and other accents that are more than 1.5 wide should be sloped or flashed to prevent moisture intrusion. Decorative accents such as the one seen here are common to many stucco homes. The flat edge on the top of the accent can allow moisture to collect and leak into the system through small imperfections in the EIFS. The top and sides of the accent can easily be caulked to stop the majority of these leaks. 66

45 SECTION 4.9 EIFS Grade Termination And Pest Control The EPS (Expended Polystyrene) board which makes up the insulation component of most residential EIF systems is susceptible to penetration by termites, ants and other pests if it is not properly sealed. The most significant risk of damage comes from areas on the exterior of the home where the EIFS is continued to grade, or below grade. When the EIFS is below the soil, it is impossible to determine if pests have penetrated the system. If pests such as termites do penetrate the system, they can access the framing wood of the home and do substantial damage. Installation of a proper termination above the grade of the home is critical to protecting the home from damage related to pests. 67

46 Standard EIFS Grade Termination Proper ground level termination of any stucco system that contains an insulation element is absolutely critical. Termites, ants and other pests can easily bore through the insulation element of a stucco system and enter into the structural wood of the home without detection. By terminating the system above ground and including an adequate seal, pests are unable to penetrate the system. Other termination methods which use stone, hardcoat stucco, or other materials may also be adequate to prevent pest problems. None of the insulation elements of the system should be continued within 6 to 8 from the ground. Homeowners should be made aware that future landscaping should not be allowed to breach the pest control area. 68

47 Optional EIFS Grade Termination The termination option shown above provides for a flashed barrier along the termination to prevent pest intrusion. Weep holes placed along the flashing allow for moisture drainage. Sealing of the flashing against the foundation is done with a carbon-based caulk which resists pest penetration. Contact ServSeal for more information or to purchase supplies at