HOME GUIDE TO EXTENDING OR CONVERTING YOUR YOUR EXPERT GUIDE TO EVERYTHING EXTENDING

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1 GUIDE TO EXTENDING OR CONVERTING YOUR HOME LOFT CONVERSIONS GARAGE CONVERSIONS CELLAR CONVERSIONS DOMESTIC EXTENSIONS YOUR EXPERT GUIDE TO EVERYTHING EXTENDING

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3 RH Madgwick & Sons PREMIER TREE AND HEDGE MANAGEMENT We have been established since 1967 and carry out Pruning, Felling, Crown reduction and thinning, stump removal.tree surveys and reportsand hedgecutting and hedge reductions. We are a family run business and are City and Guilds qualified. Public liability of 10 million and carry out contract,commercial and private householders work. Tel: Mobile: quoteme@madgwicktreesurgons.com Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 1

4 BALDWIN SCAFFOLDING Domestic Scaffolding Safe access solutions for all your domestic requirements from small access towers to fully boarded working platforms. Courteous, experienced staff with respect for you and your property. Commercial Scaffolding Fully insured with 10m public liability, qualified operatives working compliantly with all related trade regulations. Street works to edge protection, trust us to get it done safely. Chimney Stacks We have an extended range of experience in finding the most efficient and safest solutions to accessing all types of stacks wherever they may be located. Extensions/ Temporary Roofs Whether you are adding to your property or having a full re-furb we work closely with our customers to ensure we provide your tradesmen with the correct scaffold and adaptions at each stage of your build. And with our temporary roof cover your works can continue whatever the weather New Builds Small sites, self build, timber frame or conversion; we understand the importance of reliability and pride ourselves on being there on time to complete our works, assisting you to complete your development on time and on budget. HOMEOWNER LANDLORDS TRADESMEN MANAGEMENT LETTING AGENT DEVELOPER CONTRACTOR PROJECT MANAGER ESTATE AGENT TRUSTS For all your scaffolding requirements T: E: baldwinscaffolding@live.co.uk W: 2 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

5 Contents About this Guide 5 About Mid Sussex Building Control 7 Introduction 9 How to find a designer or builder 11 How to plan your project 13 Making a Building Regulations Application 15 Self Certification 17 Building an Extension 19 Loft Conversions 27 Garage Conversions 33 Cellar Conversions 39 Radon 43 Selling Your Property 46 This publication is also available as an ebook: We gratefully acknowledge the support of the firms whose advertisements appear throughout this publication. As a reciprocal gesture we have pleasure in drawing the attention of our readers to their announcements. It is necessary however for it to be made clear that, whilst every care has been taken in compiling this publication and the statements it contains, neither the promoter involved nor the Publisher can accept responsibility for any inaccuracies, or for the products or services advertised. Designed and published by LABC Publishing, Kings House, Royal Court, Brook Street, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK11 7AE. Tel: (01625) Ref: BWC 2016 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 3

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7 ABOUT THIS GUIDE This guide has been produced by LABC publishing on behalf of Mid Sussex Building Control to provide advice and guidance to homeowners who are thinking about extending or improving their homes. It contains information on: The Building Regulations and how they apply to typical home improvement projects The role that Building Control plays in protecting people and helping them create safe, comfortable and energy efficient homes How to find a designer or builder Building an extension Loft conversions Garage conversions Cellar conversions Radon This guide is not a substitute for professional advice and we recommend that you speak to an architect or designer before you start work. To find out if your work is covered by the Building Regulations visit the homeowner section of the LABC website Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 5

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9 About MID Sussex Building Control Mid Sussex Building Control is the Local Authority Building Control (LABC) service. The advantages of working with Local Authority Building Control: LABC surveyors are experienced, qualified and professional The surveyors have in depth knowledge of ground conditions and know what you are likely to find below ground Their knowledge can help you avoid costly mistakes LABC is the only truly independent and impartial building control provider They work with all parties, owners, architects and builders to help create safe and energey efficient buildings They are publicly accountable They check your plans and inspect the work on site to make sure the design meets building regulations standards and the work is being done correctly using the materials specified The service is non-profit making The Building Regulations standards are implemented in a way that is practical, fair and professional Their technical expertise is the best in the industry Contact Us For General Enquiries: Telephone: bcinfo@midsussex.gov.uk Fax: Web: buildingcontrol Postal Address: Building Control Mid Sussex District Council Oaklands, Oaklands Road Haywards Heath RH16 1SS Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 7

10 High Quality Tree Care Full Planning service for TPO s & Conservation Areas Crown reductions Tree dismantling Re planting dan@barkertreesurgery.co.uk 8 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

11 INTRODUCTION Your home is probably one of your most valuable assets and a long-term investment which is why you need to make sure that building work is done properly so that it improves the value of your property. Mid Sussex Building Control helps you do that by making sure that your work complies with Building Regulations Standards. The Building Regulations help protect you from poor workmanship and ensure that your project is carried out correctly. The Building Regulations do not cover quality of workmanship beyond that required to ensure the basic, safe construction of the building so it is possible that even though your work complies with the Building Regulations it may not meet the finishing standards that you require. You should be mindful of this when you are entering into contractual arrangements with your builder. Within England and Wales most building work is covered by the Building Regulations. These are minimum technical standards which have been set by the Government to ensure building work is carried out competently and safely. The Building Regulations cover most aspects of the work to ensure that your finished project is structurally safe, comfortable, energy efficient and accessible. The Building Regulations provide you with reassurance that your work is being carried out to a standard that will ensure your home remains structurally safe. The regulations also cover ventilation and insulation which means that, providing the work meets the standards, it will provide a safe and healthy environment for your family to live in. If you work with a designer or builder who is an LABC registered partner, you can be sure they are designing and building in accordance with the building regulations. Within England and Wales most construction work is covered by the Building Regulations. These are technical standards set by the government and all but the most, minor building work, must conform to these standards Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 9

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13 HOW TO FIND A DESIGNER OR BUILDER Through the LABC Partner Authority Scheme, Mid Sussex Building Control is partnered with a number of local chartered architects, architectural technologists, plan drawers, contractors and builders. These individuals and companies have chosen to partner with us because of the service we provide to them and their clients. We take the time to listen to their needs and work with them to provide solutions. Our relationship with these companies means that we can provide a service which is tailored to their needs. It also means that we can be sure their work meets building regulation standards. So, if you are looking for a competent designer or builder look for companies who are registered with the LABC Partner Authority Scheme. You can easily identify those companies as they display the LABC Partner logo on their website and company literature and some of them also advertise in this guide. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 11

14 BEACON FENCING LTD Beacon Fencing is a family run business with over 30 years of experience and one of the largest stocks in Sussex Specialists in all types of fencing, sheds, decking, trellis and arches, mulch and sleepers! Suppliers to the trade and DIY Delivery available Competitive prices Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm Sat 7.30am-12pm beaconfencing@btconnect.com The Old Sawmill, Pickwell Lane, Ansty, Haywards Heath, W. Sussex RH17 5AP Full measured building survey of existing property Sketch Schemes Planning Drawings Building Regulation application drawings Site Supervision and Contract Administration Acting as Party Wall surveyor under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 Telephone: info@rtarchitecturalservices.co.uk Website: rtarchitecturalservicesltd 12 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

15 HOW TO PLAN YOUR PROJECT How to plan your project Before you begin do your research! Take a look at the LABC videos on You Tube, the LABC website ( and the Home and Build website (www. homeandbuild.co.uk). Seek professional advice Unless you are experienced in construction you will need to get professional advice from an architect, architectural technologist, plan drawer or builder. Working with a designer An architect, architectural technologist, plan drawer or building surveyor will prepare drawings (plans) and specifications for your proposal and obtain the necessary approvals. They can also help you find a builder and project manage your build. Working with a design and build company A design and build company can offer a one-stop shop for construction projects. Their design department will prepare the drawings and obtain the necessary approvals and their construction department will carry out the build. Working with a builder Always make sure you work with an experienced builder and preferably one that works with LABC. Some experienced builders may be able to offer you a package similar to the design and build companies. PLANNING PERMISSION Please check whether you need Planning Permission. OTHER PERMISSIONS YOU MAY NEED Listed Building Consent: if your property is a listed building or in a conservation area, you may require Listed Building Consent. This includes changes to the exterior and interior of the building, plus alterations and extensions to outbuildings within the curtilage that were constructed prior to 1st July Unauthorised alterations to listed buildings are a criminal offence under the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 so please contact the Council s planning team at an early stage to ensure the necessary permissions are obtained. Party Wall Act: if your proposed project affects a Party Wall or you need to excavate foundations close to your neighbour s house you may need to give them notice under the Party Wall Act. This is a Civil Act and Building Control does not have any enforcing power under the Act. For more information please visit Protected trees: It is a good idea to check whether any nearby trees are protected. This could include trees protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO), or those within a Conservation Area. If you damage a protected tree either by lopping off branches or digging trenches you could be fined. Contact the Council s planning team to find out whether any trees in the vicinity are protected. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 13

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17 MAKING A BUILDING REGULATIONS APPLICATION The Building Control Process When you employ a Building Control provider you are paying to have your plans checked and your building work inspected. You are also paying for the advice and guidance we give you, your builder or architect. You start by completing an application form and at the end of the project you will receive a Completion Certificate. Mid Sussex Building Control accepts Building Notice Applications (for minor works) and Full Plans Applications for all other work. A Full Plans Application This is recommended for major building work because the surveyor checks the plans before you start building. You (or your agent) submit the application form, plans, specifications and fee to the Local Authority and they issue your Acknowledgement Letter and Building Control Reference Number. The surveyor checks the plans and consults with the designer and once they are satisfied that the work complies, they issue a Building Regulations Approval to the agent. This is known as your Decision Notice. You can start work any time after you receive the Acknowledgement Letter and Building Control Reference number but it is wise to wait until you receive the Decision Notice. This takes approximately 3 weeks (providing your application contains all the information they need in a format they accept). If they have to wait for additional information your decision notice can take up to 8 weeks. Once work starts on site our surveyors liaise with your builder and inspect the work as it progresses. When the project is satisfactorily completed a Building Regulations Completion Certificate will be issued confirming that the project has been independently inspected and complied with the Building Regulations. A Building Notice Application This route is best suited to small projects that are carried out by a competent builder. It is not recommended unless your builder and architect/designer have lots of experience of the type of work you are doing and are fully aware of the requirements of the current Building Regulations. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 15

18 If you submit a Building Notice, your agent doesn t provide any plans which means the surveyor can t confirm that the design complies with building regulations. You will not receive a Building Regulations Approval and the work will have to be checked on site as it progresses. Only use this route if you are confident that your builder is experienced and competent. Submit your Building Notice Application with a site location plan and payment of the fee. Upon receipt, Mid Sussex Building control will issue your Acknowledgement Letter and Building Control Reference number. You can start work 48 hours after you receive this. Once work starts, a building control surveyor will meet with your builder on-site to discuss your intentions, and agree: how the work should be carried out when the work will need to be inspected whether any further information will be required e.g. structural calculations or drawings. My builder advised me to submit a Full Plans application because my property renovation was complex and tricky. We wanted to be sure that all aspects of the build had been thought through at design stage so there were no expensive surprises during the build Often, with a building notice, customers find that the build cost increases because they need to add fire doors, ventilation or insulation which hasn t been considered at the start of the job. If you want to use a building notice try to think about what materials you will need, and the cost of these, at the outset. When the project is satisfactorily completed a Building Regulations Completion Certificate will be issued showing that the project has been independently inspected and that it complied with the Building Regulations. SITE INSPECTIONS Before work starts, Mid Sussex Building Control will send you a Site Inspection Plan telling which stages of the build they want to inspect. The site inspection plan will be designed around your project. You must give this to your builder so they can contact Mid Sussex Building Control and arrange site inspections. The surveyor will inspect the work as it progresses, ask the builder to alter something (if necessary) and make sure the work complies with the Building Regulations. If you have any concerns, want Mid Sussex building control to inspect something specific, or would like to meet to discuss the work please bcinfo@midsussex.gov.uk or call COMPLETION CERTIFICATES When your project has been satisfactorily completed and inspected to confirm that it complies with the Building Regulations we will issue a Completion Certificate. This is a legal document which you will need to produce if you are re-mortgaging, insuring or selling your property. Please make sure that you contact Mid Sussex Building Control to carry out their final inspection at the end of the work (once your builder has finished but preferably before they have left site) so that they can sign it off and issue your Completion Certificate. 16 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

19 SELF CERTIFICATION Some minor work can be self-certified by contractors who are members of a competent persons scheme. Registered contractors can issue certificates to show the work complies. These include: FENSA for replacement windows; CERTASS for replacement windows; Regulations because you will need this when you sell your property; If you are in any doubt about anything contact the relevant trade association or contact Mid Sussex Building Control for advice. This is separate to the Building Control Process. GAS SAFE for installations and alterations to gas, hot water and heating systems so long as the contractor is a registered installer and not just a service engineer; OFTEC for installation of, and alteration to, oil burning boilers and appliances; HETAS for installation of and alteration to solid fuel burning boilers and appliances; Part P Electrical Contractors registered under one of the Part P schemes can issue certificates for domestic electrical work. TIPS FOR WORKING WITH SELF CERTIFIED CONTRACTORS Always ensure the contractor is registered for the work they are undertaking, eg. If you are having a new heating system installed ensure the contractor is a registered installer not a service engineer; Always ensure that at the end of the job the contractor issues you with a Certificate confirming that the work complies with the Building Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 17

20 Yudsons Ltd are a family run business working in the Sussex and Surrey area Established in 2005 We can arrange for architects to visit to help realise your ideas, or we can work from your own architect s design plans for extensions or conversions and all types of building works. Tel: Mob: Lolpiper@yudsons.co.uk DP Gas Services Benjamin Leigh Carpentry & Construction Builder Heating & Installation Specialists Mobile: info@dpgasservices.co.uk 89 Leylands Road Burgess Hill West Sussex RH15 8AA Tel: Mobile: benjaminleigh27@hotmail.co.uk 18 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

21 BUILDING AN EXTENSION A well designed and constructed extension will enhance your property and add value. This chapter covers some of the technical aspects that affect the design and construction of an extension. It also provides information on how the Building Regulations apply to this work. Can your home be extended? To decide if your home can be extended you should think about: How you will get in and out of your extension? Whether you have the space to extend The effect your extension will have on the way you move around your home The effect your extension will have on your existing house and garden Will the extension block out light from existing rooms or make some rooms unusable? Will you still be able to get into your garden? What your existing house is built from. Is it an unusual construction such as prefabricated panels, concrete frame etc? What effect the extension will have on nearby trees, especially your neighbour s Whether any of these trees are protected Whether your extension will receive enough daylight/sunlight if nearby trees overhang it Your home is probably one of your most valuable assets and a major long-term investment which is why you need to make sure that any building work is done properly so that it improves the value of your property. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 19

22 TECHNICAL GUIDANCE Foundations: the foundations are one of the most important and generally the most expensive parts of the build. For domestic extensions trenchfill foundations are commonly used. These should be taken down into firm natural ground and are generally a minimum of 1m deep. In areas with clay subsoil, trees can have a significant effect on foundations which usually means that they need to be deeper. If you are concerned about any trees please get in touch with Mid Sussex Building Control and they will give you advice regarding foundation depths. If you have to keep the trees that are close to the area you have chosen for your extension, complex foundations such as piling, pad and beam or a Housedeck system may be required. For more information visit and take a look at the LABC Registered Construction Details (foundation category). Ground Floor: the ground floor supports the floor loading, keeps out damp and provides thermal insulation. If your property is within a Radon Protection Zone (or if you re not sure what this means) please see the section on Radon on page 47 because you may need to carry out additional work. Walls: the walls of your extension must carry the loads from the floors and roof, keep the weather out and provide insulation. Cavity walls, made up from bricks and blocks which are subsequently filled with insulation are commonly used for domestic extensions. When building walls you must ensure that you: have adequate support at the corners of your extension; have lintels over all doors and windows; use wall ties to join the leaves of your cavity wall together; include a suitable damp proof course; If you are building up against your neighbour s house you must ensure that your wall provides adequate sound resistance. Visit First Floor: a two storey extension will have an upstairs. The first floor is generally made up from timber floor joists which span between load bearing walls. They support floor boarding above and plasterboard is then fixed to the underside of the joists to provide a ceiling finish and fire resistance. The size of the floor joists will depend on the span. The floor will also need to include sound insulation - 100mm of sound deadening mineral wool placed between the joists is generally sufficient for domestic extensions. The Roof: the roof of your extension will need to be designed to protect you from the elements and provide you with some storage space. There are two types of roof which are generally used for domestic extensions: Flat Roofs: this is the simplest type of roof structure and for single storey extensions a flat roof can provide a practical and economic solution. Critical things to consider with this type of roof are the size and support of the roof joists and the insulation and ventilation (if necessary Pitched Roofs: pitched roofs are used when flat roofs aren t suitable. These are generally more substantial structures and finished with roof tiles or slates. The supporting structure of the roof can be formed in two ways: Trussed Rafter Roofs: these are quick to construct, measurements are taken from site and roof trusses are made up in a factory and delivered to site ready for installation. Each roof is individually designed by the roof truss manufacturer using specialist computer software. This 20 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

23 method minimises the carpenter s time onsite. Traditional Roofs: A carpenter cuts a traditional roof on-site. The roof structure will generally be designed by an architect or structural engineer and the timber is then delivered to site where the carpenter will set out the roof and cut each of the individual timbers to size before installing them. This type of roof offers the greatest flexibility in roof shape and is often the only way of roofing complicated extensions especially where the new roof must join onto an existing structure. The size of the timbers and supporting beams will depend on the loadings and spans involved in each case, complex roofs will require a structural engineer s design. Once the support is in place the roof must be covered to provide weather protection, pitched roofs are generally finished with tiles or slates with a layer of roofing membrane or felt under them. For extensions, it is common to use tiles or slates that match the main house although this is not always possible if the extension roof has a very low pitch. DID YOU KNOW? the clear headroom over the stair should be at least 2m. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 21

24 Stairs: if your extension has more than one storey and you need to install a new staircase, it should be designed in accordance with the following guidance. Width: In the Building Regulations there is no minimum width for stairs but they are generally mm wide so that they are wide enough to use. Headroom: the clear headroom over the stair should be at least 2m. Handrails and Balustrades: the stair should have a handrail which is at least 900mm high and any exposed edges of stairs or landings should have balustrading which is also at least 900mm high. The balustrades should be designed so that they can not be climbed and do not have gaps exceeding 100mm. Fire Precautions: House fires can kill so it is important to think about how your family would escape in the event of a fire. The most dangerous fires generally occur at night when everyone is asleep. To prevent your family being trapped by a fire, all first floor rooms, and rooms that do not open directly onto a hall, should have a window or door (known as a secondary fire escape) that is large enough to escape through. If you are using a window as your secondary fire escape it should have a clear opening of at least 0.33m2 and be at least 450mm wide with a cill height of between 800 and 1100mm above floor level. If your extension is designed and built in accordance with the Building Regulations, you will be protecting your family from the dangers of fire. Ventilation: to create a comfortable and healthy environment for your family to live in, you need to make sure you have a regular supply of fresh air. To help you do this, the Building Regulations state that your extension should have adequate ventilation such as a window with a trickle vent in the frame that can be opened. The trickle vent is a small slot type vent (usually in the top of the window frame) which can be left open to allow fresh air in. The window should have an openable area equivalent to at least 1/20th of the floor area of the room. If your extension has a kitchen, utility room or bathroom you ll need to install an extractor fan in these rooms. Drainage: you can usually connect the new drainage into your existing systems. There are two types of drainage: foul water and rainwater and they should be kept separate. Foul drainage is usually discharged through a series of pipes and manholes to a public sewer although some properties have septic tanks or private sewage treatment plants. When planning your extension check where the manholes are located and find out where your drains are running so you can decide how any new drains will connect to them. It is important that 22 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

25 all new underground drain pipes have a diameter of at least 100mm to ensure they do not block or freeze. They must also be watertight and have manholes or access points so that any blockages can be cleared. If you share a drain with your neighbour the Water Authority (Thames or Southern) may be responsible for the maintenance of the pipes and this could have an impact on your plans so please check with them before proceeding. Rainwater should be discharged to soakaways in your garden (make sure they are at least 5m from any building) or to storm water sewers if they are available, When designing the routing of new drainage systems, (stormwater and foul) and the positioning of soakaways, particular attention should be paid to nearby trees. Excavations and trenching should ideally be sited well outside the root protection area of any retained tree for advice on root protection areas please consult a suitable arboricultural consultant. Routing trenches and other excavations through the root systems of trees can be expensive and cause severe damage to the tree. NB: if you damage a neighbours tree which is protected (ie has a TPO) you could be fined. Heating: if you want to heat your extension please check with your heating engineer that your existing system has the capacity to heat your extended house. If your extension is going to cover the boiler flue outlet, you will need to move the boiler. Any alterations to your heating system should be carried out by a suitably qualified plumber or heating engineer registered with Gas Safe for gas fired boilers or OFTEC for oil fired boilers. If you are installing a new boiler it must be a highly efficient condensing boiler and all new radiators should be fitted with thermostatic radiator valves so you can ensure that they use heat efficiently. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 23

26 Electrical Installations: for most new electrical installations you need to provide building control with British Standard Test Certificates. Please ensure your electrical contractor is registered to provide these. Glazing: glazing in and around doors and all glazing within 800mm of floor level should be either toughened or laminated glass. This is to protect people from injury. Solar panels: if you are thinking of installing solar panels please check whether planning permission is required. Check that the roof structure is strong enough to support them. If you need to strengthen the roof please submit a Building Regulations application to us. Think carefully about where the panels will be placed to ensure they receive enough sunlight to make them efficient. If there are overhanging trees, the amount of sunlight they receive will be limited. Thermal Insulation: the government is committed to reducing the amount of CO2 emissions and one of the ways they are doing this is by making sure buildings are properly insulated. High levels of insulation minimise the amount of heat lost from your home. The roof, walls and floors of your extension should all include thermal insulation; generally, walls have insulation within the cavity, roofs have insulation in the loft area and floors have sheets of insulation placed beneath the concrete on the ground floor. Windows are a major source of heat loss so 24mm double glazing units incorporating low emissivity glass are generally required. The window area of your extension is limited by the Building Regulations to 25% of the floor area plus the area of any existing openings covered by the extension. If you carried out energy improvements 24 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

27 elsewhere in your home you may be able to have a larger window area. High levels of insulation can cause problems with condensation so make sure the rooms and roof have adequate ventilation. You must also install energy efficient services such as low energy light fittings and heat condensing boilers. New heating systems should have suitable thermostats and controls. Conclusion: A well designed and constructed extension will enhance your property and add value. A poorly thought-out extension can reduce the value of your property and in some cases compromise your safety and the structural integrity of your home. So make sure you: seek advice from an LABC partner architect (see page XX) plan your extension carefully employ and experienced contractor The Building Regulations are there to protect you and to ensure that buildings are constructed to a reasonable standard. Your Local Authority Building Control team provide advice and guidance to help you achieve this visit Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 25

28 a family run, local business for all your carpentry needs loft conversions, loft ladders, kitchens, wardrobes, hanging doors, decking & shed installation - any made to measure requirement! Tel: Mob: peter@splinterscarpentry.co.uk G.LUXFORD ROOFING ALL ASPECTS OF ROOFING Free Estimates Slating Tiling Re-roof Tile Hanging All Roof Repairs Re-pointing Flat Roofing Chimney Repairs Lead Work Lead burning M: T: E: gluxfordroofing@yahoo.co.uk 31 Alendale Road, Sompting, Lancing Fully experienced in supplying and installing wood burning and multi fuel stoves, fully HETAS qualified with over 15 years experience within the construction industry. With so many fuel types to choose from, including wood burning stoves, multi-fuel stoves, gas stoves, electric stoves, log stoves, our team can help you decide on the right choice to suit your lifestyle. We offer a Free Onsite Survey at a time convenient to you and a fi xed quotation for the choice that s right for you. We also carry out various types of construction and small building works delivered to a very high standard of service. With this we also offer a free onsite survey and a fi xed quotation. Tel: Mobile: paul@ifi tltd.co.uk Web: tltd.co.uk Domestic, Commercial & Industrial Electrical Company At Tester electrical services we provide a complete service, whether you are looking to install garden lighting, new sockets or lighting for outbuildings then look no further than us. Landlord electrical certifi cates are also undertaken, which we issue when we carry out a Landlord safety inspection. 24 Calluna Drive, Copthorne, West Sussex RH10 3XF Phone: info@testerelectricals.co.uk Web: 26 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

29 LOFT Conversions...A well converted loft is a definite asset to your home, it can provide extra space and add value to your property. Most houses have a large unused loft space that could be converted into an additional room. This chapter covers some of the technical issues that affect the design and construction of a loft conversion and provides information about how the Building Regulations apply to this work. Loft conversions are complex and must be done properly to ensure your home is safe for your family to live in. Always seek advice from a professional. Can your loft be converted? To decide whether your loft can be converted you should think about: Whether there is enough head room for you to stand comfortably once the new floor is put in. Your new floor is likely to be around 200mm higher than your existing ceiling joists. Whether the loft space is large enough for you to create a useable room Whether there any chimneys or services passing through the loft space that will need moving Whether the roof is fully weather tight. TECHNICAL GUIDANCE The Roof Structure: roofs are designed to protect you from the elements and the loft is designed to accommodate some light storage. If you convert your loft, your roof will have to cope with significantly different loadings (more weight) because you will have to install a new floor structure, possibly alter the structural elements to install roof windows and open up the room so you can move around it. Roofs are generally divided into two types. Trussed Rafter Roofs: these have been common since the 1970s and are difficult to convert. Roof trusses are complex pieces of engineering and they should not be altered without the advice of a structural engineer. When converting this type of roof it is common for a series of beams to be installed to provide support to the new floor and to strengthen the rafters, so the bracing sections of the trusses can be cut out to create a clear floor area. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 27

30 Traditional Roofs: these are generally made up from a series of rafters and purlins spanning between load bearing walls. These roofs are less complicated to convert than trussed rafter roofs but beams are generally required to provide support to the new floor structure and the existing purlins. A structural engineer s design will be required for all but the simplest conversions. When converting your loft, don t be tempted to simply board over your existing ceiling joists and rafters. The structure won t be strong enough or safe to use. Accessing your Loft Conversion: if you want to use the loft as a proper room, you will need to install a staircase. If there s enough headroom it is best to continue the stair from the existing stairwell because this saves space and gives a feeling of continuity. If this isn t possible, you ll need to partition off part of a room to accommodate the new staircase which should be designed in accordance with the following guidance. Headroom: the clear headroom over the stair should be at least 2m, but in some instances the Building Regulations allow you to have a reduced headroom of 1.9m over the centre of the stair and 1.8m on the outside edge. For loft conversions where space is very limited and only one room...loft conversions are complex so unless you are experienced in construction please seek professional advice 28 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

31 is created, a specialist alternating tread staircase can be used. These are steeper than standard stairs but can provide the valuable space you need. Handrails and Balustrades: the stair should have a handrail which is at least 900mm high and any exposed edges of stairs or landings should have balustrading which is also at least 900mm high. The balustrades should be designed so that they can not be climbed and do not have gaps exceeding 100mm. Fire Precautions: House fires can kill so it is important that you consider how your family would escape from your home in the event of a fire. The most dangerous fires generally occur at night when everyone is asleep. When converting your loft, the Building Regulations stipulate that you must install mains powered, interlinked smoke detectors in the hall and landing areas on every floor of your house. Fire can kill so careful design and planning are essential to ensure that the risks are minimised. Creating a Two Storey House: the Building Regulations assume that if a fire occurred in a two storey house (and you were unable to escape down the stairs) you would jump or be rescued from, a first floor window. If you are converting the loft of a bungalow you must ensure that you have mains powered interlinked smoke detection on the ground and first floor and all habitable rooms on the first floor have an escape window. A poorly converted loft can reduce the value of your property and compromise the safety of your home so make sure you build to building regulations standards. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 29

32 Escape Windows: these are windows that are large enough for you to escape or be rescued from. They need to have a clear opening area of at least 0.33m2 and a clear width of at least 450mm. The bottom of the opening light should be no more than 1100mm above floor level and they should allow you to escape to a place free from danger. Escape windows need to be fitted with escape hinges so that the window can be fully opened. Some of the standard hinges fitted to Upvc windows prevent the windows from fully opening so check with your glazing supplier when ordering them. Creating a Three Storey House: when you convert the loft of a house and create a third floor, the Building Regulations require you to consider the fire precautions a lot more seriously. Mains operated smoke detection needs to be fitted to provide early warning of a fire so your family can escape. As you will be unable to escape through the third floor window the only safe way out of the house will be down the stairs so it is vital that they are protected from fire. Which means all doors that open onto the stairs need to be half hour fire doors and the staircase should finish in the entrance hall with a door to the outside. Generally, unless a sprinkler system or alternative fire escape is provided, stairs in three storey properties cannot finish in other rooms. Four Storey Houses: if your house already has three storeys, loft conversions become even more complicated as the means of escape in the event of a fire is more problematic. You may need to install a sprinkler system or a second escape stair which will need specialist design. Please building.control@horsham.gov.uk and they will be happy to provide advice Bathrooms: if you want to include a bath or shower room in your loft conversion, it is best to put it above your existing bathroom so that you can connect pipes into the existing drainage and water supplies. Bath and/or shower rooms will also need to be fitted with an extract fan to improve ventilation. It is a good idea to decide on the location of bathrooms at an early stage of the design. Thermal Insulation: the government is committed to reducing the amount of CO2 emissions and one of the ways they are doing this is by making sure buildings are properly insulated. High levels of insulation minimise the amount of heat lost from your home. The most common way to provide a high level of insulation in a loft conversion is to install a high performance insulation board in between and below the rafters. If your roof doesn t have a breathable felt you will need to ensure that you have effective roof ventilation to prevent the build up of condensation. Heating: the most effective way of heating your loft conversion is to extend the existing central heating system. Check with your plumber or heating engineer that your boiler has sufficient capacity to serve the additional radiators. Any new radiators should be fitted with thermostatic valves to control the room temperature. If it is not possible to extend the existing system, or if you prefer an alternative method of heating, e.g. electric panel heaters, consider how these can be switched and controlled to ensure that they function efficiently. 30 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

33 Sound Insulation: to reduce sound transmission the bedroom walls and floors will need to be insulated. This is generally achieved by placing 100mm of sound deadening quilt in the floor void and in the partitions around the bedrooms. If you are converting the loft of a semi-detached or terraced property you will need to ensure that the sound resistance of the Party Wall is also upgraded so that sound transmission to your neighbour s is minimised. Electrical Installations: for most new electrical installations you will need to provide building control with British Standard Test Certificates. Please ensure your electrical contractor is registered to provide you with these. Windows and Ventilation: all new habitable rooms need to be ventilated. Generally this is achieved by providing an opening window or roof light (which has a trickle vent at high level) which is equivalent to 1/20th of the floor area of the room. All new windows must be fitted with highly efficient double glazed units. An extract fan should be fitted in all bath and shower rooms. In rooms without opening windows, extract fans that are triggered by the light switch with overrun timers that allow the fan to remain on after the light is turned off should be fitted. Dormer Windows: Dormer windows can increase the amount of useable floor space in your loft conversion but they can have implications on the design of the conversion. Some dormers need planning permission depending on size and location. If the side of the dormer is less than 1 metre from your boundary, it will need to achieve 30 minutes fire resistance from both sides. This means you will need to include special boards within the construction and this may restrict the use of some materials, such as timber boarding, on the outside. Down Lighters: Flush fitting down lighters are very popular but, if you fit these it could mean that your conversion doesn t comply with the requirements of the Building Regulations. They require you to have a continuous insulation layer and this can be difficult to achieve if you have limited construction space (particularly in a flat roof). Down lighters need space around them to dissipate the heat which means that gaps have to be created in the insulation and this does not comply with building regulations. Conclusion: A well designed and constructed loft conversion will provide extra space and add value to your property. A poorly thought-out loft conversion can reduce the value of your property and in some cases compromise your safety and the structural integrity of your home. So make sure you: seek advice from an LABC partner architect (see page XX) plan your extension carefully employ and experienced contractor The Building Regulations are there to protect you and to ensure that buildings are constructed to a reasonable standard. Your Local Authority Building Control team provide advice and guidance to help you achieve this visit Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 31

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35 GARAGE Conversions If you need more space but don t want to move you could consider converting your garage. This chapter covers some technical aspects that affect garage conversions and provides useful information about how the Building Regulations apply to this work. Certain ground conditions will effect the ground floor detail Can your garage be converted? If you have a brick or block garage which is attached to your house you can probably convert it. To decide whether it is suitable, ask yourself the following questions: Does your garage have any known problems such as cracks, damp or a leaking roof? Has the floor been contaminated with fuel or oil? Is there a door from the house to the garage or can one be put in easily? Will you have enough/alternative parking and storage space? Is there enough room in your garage to provide the accommodation you need or would it be better to extend your property? Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 33

36 Is your existing garage built from an unusual construction such as prefabricated panels, concrete frame etc.? Is your existing garage affected by trees that would impact upon the conversion? Then seek the advice of a professional designer. TECHNICAL GUIDANCE Infilling the Garage Door Opening: this is the most visible part of your conversion from the outside so think carefully before you deciding how to fill it in. You can fill it in with a wall, window or door. The infill will need to be supported with a foundation. Some garages already have a foundation that runs across the garage opening which can be used, but you will need to dig a hole to check. If your garage doesn t have a foundation under the door, you have two options: Option 1. Dig a foundation. Option 2. Install two 150mm deep concrete lintels across the opening supported by the existing foundations but only if the opening is the width of a single garage door. Once the foundations are in place, the opening can be filled in using either of the following options. Option 1. Create a brick wall that matches the house and install a new window. It is best to use a cavity wall and install a new double-glazed window to keep the damp out and provide insulation. Option 2. Install a lightweight, timber framed panel with a weatherproof external surface and insulation. This can be quicker and cheaper than option 1 and can easily be removed if you, or any future owners of the house, want to reinstate the garage. Whichever option you choose it is important that the infill provides adequate weather resistance and insulation and that all of the new work is tied into the existing construction. Raising the Floor Level: garage floors are usually lower than the floor of the main house and slope towards the garage door so it is normal to raise them during the conversion. There are several ways 34 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

37 to do this but whichever you choose it is important to consider insulation and damp proofing. Lining the External Walls: garages aren t built to be lived in and their walls are often formed from a single thickness of brickwork or built from cavity masonry that is uninsulated. So, when you convert your garage you will need to upgrade the walls. When upgrading garage walls there are three key areas to consider: weather and damp resistance; insulation; sound resistance. The upgrading scheme will be influenced by the original construction of your garage walls and these can be broadly divided into two categories. Cavity Walls: if your garage is built from cavity walling, weather resistance and damp proofing are unlikely to be a problem. These walls generally have damp proof courses so if your wall is in good condition and is not showing signs of water ingress or rising damp, it will simply require insulating and plastering ready for decoration. There are two options for insulating the wall: either the cavity can be injected with cavity wall insulation or an insulated lining board can be fixed to the inner face of the wall prior to plaster boarding or plastering. Various boards are available and your Building Control Surveyor will be happy to provide advice about ones that are suitable for your project. Solid Brick Walls: these are generally only a single brick approximately 100mm thick with intermediate piers that buttress the walls to give them additional strength. A single brick wall will not provide adequate weather resistance to a habitable room so a supplementary wall will be needed behind the original wall. Party Walls: if any of the garage walls are shared with a neighbour they are considered to be Party Walls. These walls need to be upgraded to reduce sound transfer between your new room and your neighbour s property. The Ceiling: unless your garage already has an adequate ceiling you will need to provide one as part of the conversion. Plasterboard is the most common material used for ceilings as it has good fire resistance and flame spread properties. Other materials can be used but they usually need to be treated to improve their fire performance. If the garage is open to a roof you will need to provide insulation above the ceiling. The roof void will need to be ventilated above the insulation to reduce the risk of problems with condensation. In a pitched roof, fiberglass insulation will normally suffice but with flat roofs, where space is confined, high performance insulation boards are often required. Heating: if you want to heat your new room please check with your heating engineer that your existing system has the capacity to heat your extended house. Any alterations to your heating system should be carried out by a suitably qualified plumber or heating engineer registered with Gas Safe for gas fired boilers or OFTEC for oil fired boilers. If you are installing a new boiler it must be a highly efficient condensing boiler and all new radiators should be fitted with Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 35

38 thermostatic radiator valves so you can ensure that they use heat efficiently. Drainage: if you want to include a sink, bathroom, shower room or cloakroom think about your drainage at an early stage. Any new appliances will have to connect to your existing foul drainage system because they cannot be connected into rainwater drains. When planning your layouts make sure there are suitable routes for pipes to run to a point where they can be connected to existing drains. Where possible, avoid routes through the root protection areas of trees. Windows and Ventilation: any new habitable rooms need to be ventilated. Generally this is achieved by providing an opening window equivalent to 1/20th of the floor area of the room with a trickle vent at high level. All new windows must be fitted with highly efficient double glazed units. They should have an opener with a clear area of at least 0.33m2 and 450mm wide and big enough for you to escape through if there was a of fire. This is essential if the door from your garage opens into another room rather than the entrance hall. Special fire escape hinges should be fitted to this window to ensure that it can be fully opened. In bath and/or shower rooms an extract fan should be fitted and in rooms without opening windows these should be triggered by the light switch and have overrun timers that allow the fan to remain on after the light is turned out. Fire Precautions: home improvement work provides you with the ideal opportunity to check that you have adequate fire precautions in your existing house. Mains operated smoke alarms significantly improve your chances of escaping from a 36 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

39 house fire. The Building Regulations require these to be installed when garages are converted to habitable rooms. Electrical Installations: for most new electrical installations you need to provide building control with British Standard Test Certificates. Please ensure your electrical contractor is registered to provide these. If they are not provided, Mid Sussex Building Control can arrange for a test to be carried out. Please ask your Building Control Surveyor about the cost of this service.xet) Conclusion: A well designed and constructed garage conversion will provide extra space and add value to your property. A poorly thought-out conversion can reduce the value of your property and in some cases compromise your safety and the structural integrity of your home. So make sure you: seek advice from an LABC partner architect (see page XX) plan your extension carefully employ and experienced contractor The Building Regulations are there to protect you and to ensure that buildings are constructed to a reasonable standard. Your Local Authority Building Control team provide advice and guidance to help you achieve this visit Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 37

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41 Cellar Conversions If you have a cellar beneath your house you may be able to convert it. This chapter covers some of the technical issues that affect cellar conversions and provides information about how the Building Regulations apply to them. Can your cellar be converted? To decide if your cellar can be converted ask yourself the following questions: Will there be sufficient headroom in the cellar once the new ceiling and the floor treatments have been installed? Does the cellar ever flood? Can you use an existing staircase to access the basement or will you have to install a new one? Will you have enough storage space if you convert your cellar? Is there enough room in your cellar to provide the accommodation that you need? Is there ventilation in your cellar or could any be provided? Cellar conversions can be complex so, unless you are experienced in construction, you will need to get some professional advice. TECHNICAL GUIDANCE Lowering the Cellar Floor: if there isn t sufficient headroom in your cellar it is sometimes possible to lower the cellar floor. This is not a simple job and it may undermine the foundations of yours or your neighbour s house. The floor may also end up below the water table which will make the property more vulnerable to flooding. Seek advice from a specialist structural engineer if you are considering lowering the cellar floor. Access: some cellars already have stairs but they may not provide suitable access to a habitable room. Your Building Control Surveyor will be happy to discuss this with you. If there are no steps, or if the existing ones are inadequate, you will need to install a new staircase. When considering where DID YOU KNOW? the maximum pitch for the stair should not exceed 42 degrees. Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 39

42 to put the staircase think about the layout of the existing house and cellar, the headroom available and whether a secondary means of escape can be provided from the cellar. The stair should be designed in accordance with the following guidance. Width: In the Building Regulations there is no minimum width for stairs but they are generally mm wide so that they are wide enough to use. Headroom: the clear headroom over the stair should be at least 2m. Handrails and Balustrades: the stair should have a handrail which is at least 900mm high and any exposed edges of stairs or landings should have balustrading which is also at least 900mm high. The balustrades should be designed so that they can not be climbed and do not have gaps exceeding 100mm. Waterproofing: as most cellars are underground they tend to suffer from damp so it is vital that you damp proof your cellar. A number of systems are available and most use a proprietary waterproof system known as tanking which forms a continuous damp proof layer across the floor and up the walls. These are normally installed by specialist companies who offer an insurance backed guarantee but your Building Control Surveyor will need to approve the installer and the details of the system before it is installed. Fire Precautions: House fires can kill so you must consider how you are going to provide suitable escape routes from your cellar. If your cellar has a light well you might be able to upgrade it so that, as well as providing ventilation, it will provide a secondary fire escape. To be considered as a secondary fire escape it would need to be fitted with a door or window with a clear area of at least 0.33m2 and 450mm wide. Special fire escape hinges should be fitted to this window to 40 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

43 ensure that it can be fully opened in the case of an emergency and you should be able to climb from the light well up to ground level easily. When you are improving your home it is a good opportunity to check that you have adequate fire precautions in your existing house. Mains operated smoke alarms significantly improve your chances of escaping from a house fire which is why the Building Regulations require them to be installed when cellars are converted to habitable rooms. Drainage: if you want to include a sink, bath/shower room or washing machine in your cellar it is important that you think about the drainage at an early stage. Any new appliances will need to connect to your existing foul drainage system which is probably above the level of the appliances that you wish to install. You will probably need to install a pumped drainage system and there are various package systems available that macerate the drainage and pump it via a small diameter pipe to the existing drainage system. When planning your layouts make sure that there are suitable routes for pipes to run to a point where they can connect to existing drains and avoid root protection areas of trees wherever possible. The Ceiling: unless your existing cellar has an adequate ceiling you will need to provide one. Plasterboard is the most common material used for ceilings as it offers good fire resistance and flame spread properties. Other materials can be used but they will generally need to be treated to improve their fire performance. If the cellar, or the room above, is to be used as a bedroom you will need to install 100mm of acoustic quilt within the floor void between the rooms. Heating: if you want to heat your new room please check with your heating engineer that your existing system has the capacity to heat your extended house. Any alterations to your heating system should be carried out by a suitably qualified plumber or heating engineer registered with Gas Safe for gas fired boilers or OFTEC for oil fired boilers. If you are installing a new boiler it must be a highly efficient condensing boiler and all new radiators should be fitted with thermostatic radiator valves so you can ensure that they use heat efficiently. Ventilation: all new habitable rooms need to be ventilated which can be problematic in cellar conversions. If there is a light well it might be able to be adapted to include an opening window equivalent to 1/20th of the floor area of the room (with a trickle vent at high level). If the cellar includes a bath/shower room an extract fan should be fitted. If there are any rooms without opening windows extract fans should be fitted that are triggered by the light switch with overrun timers that allow the fan to remain on after the light is turned off. If it is not possible to get natural ventilation, a mechanical ventilation system will need to be installed and various package systems are available. Ventilation should be considered early in the design stage because, if mechanical ventilation is required, the duct work will need to be designed. DID YOU KNOW? all new habitable rooms need to be ventilated Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 41

44 Thermal Insulation: CO2 emissions are a major environmental problem so you need to provide a high level of insulation within your conversion. Your cellar should have an insulated envelope to minimise the amount of heat loss. The walls and floor should be lined with insulating boards and the windows (if installed) should include 24mm double glazing units incorporating low emissivity glass. You will also need to consider the efficiency of any services you install and low energy light fittings should be used where possible. New heating systems should work to high levels of efficiency and have suitable thermostats and controls. Electrical Installations: for most new electrical installations you need to provide building control with British Standard Test Certificates. Please ensure your electrical contractor is registered to provide these. Conclusion: A well designed and constructed cellar conversion will enhance your property and add value. A poorly thought-out conversion can reduce the value of your property and in some cases compromise your safety and the structural integrity of your home. So make sure you: seek advice from an LABC partner architect (see page XX) plan your extension carefully employ and experienced contractor The Building Regulations are there to protect you and to ensure that buildings are constructed to a reasonable standard. Your Local Authority Building Control team provide advice and guidance to help you achieve this visit 42 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

45 Radon Radon is a colourless, odourless radioactive gas. It is formed by the radioactive decay of the small amounts of uranium that occur naturally in all rocks and soils. Why is it a risk to our health? Radioactive elements decay and emit radiation. Any exposure to radiation is thought to be a risk to health - radiation is a form of energy and can cause damage in living tissues increasing the risk of cancer. Where is radon found? Radon is everywhere; formed from the uranium in all rocks and soils. Outdoors everywhere and indoors in many areas the radon levels are low and the risk to health is small. Public Health England has Figure 1 Routes by which radon enters a dwelling Key to ingress routes 1 Through cracks in solid floors 2 Through construction joints 3 Through cracks in walls below ground level 4 Through gaps in suspended floors 5 Through cracks in walls 6 Through gaps around service pipes 7 Through cavities in walls Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 43

46 YOUR EXPERT GUIDE TO EVERYTHING EXTENDING YOUR EXPERT GUIDE TO EVERYTHING CONVERTING YOUR EXPERT GUIDE TO EVERYTHING RENOVATING Sussex Doors & Windows Ltd GUIDE TO EXTENDING YOUR HOME LOFT CONVERSIONS GARAGE CONVERSIONS CELLAR CONVERSIONS DOMESTIC EXTENSIONS GUIDE TO CONVERTING YOUR PROPERTY GUIDE TO RENOVATING YOUR HOME T: / M: E: 83 Pastures Hill Road, Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH16 1LY If you are looking for an opportunity to advertise in any of these local authority guides please contact Marcus on to discuss opportunities 44 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

47 prepared maps indicating the chance of a building having a high radon level. These maps cover England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. But even in the areas with the highest chance of a building having a high radon level not all buildings will have high levels. The maps can be viewed at What is a low level? The amount of radon is measured in becquerels per cubic metre of air (Bq m-3). The average level in UK homes is 20 Bq m-3. For levels below 100 Bq m-3, your individual risk remains relatively low and not a cause for concern, however, the risk increases as the radon level increases. How does radon enter a building? The floors and walls of dwellings contain many small cracks and gaps formed during and after construction. Radon from the ground is drawn into the building through these cracks and gaps because the atmospheric pressure inside the building is usually slightly lower than the pressure in the underlying soil. This small pressure difference is caused by the stack (or chimney) effect of heat in the building and by the effects of wind. Radon protective measures These can be included relatively easily and cost-effectively during the building of your extension. All extensions which fall within a full or basic radon protection area will be required to incorporate an appropriate level of radon protection if a new ground floor is provided. Full radon protection: in this situation, the damp proof membrane (minimum 1200g) acts as the radon barrier so it is important that the membrane extends through the cavity and is linked with a cavity tray. In addition, a subfloor sump is also required and if the existing house has a solid floor, this can be used to reduce the level of radon in both the extension and the existing building. Basic radon protection: Only the continuous damp proof membrane is required. The detailing in both cases will depend on the type of construction used and the positioning of the damp proof membrane, your Building Control Surveyor will be able to give you further guidance. Wherever possible the construction joint between the new floor and the existing house should be sealed. Where radon barriers have been incorporated in both the new floor and the existing floor, the aim should be to joint the two barriers where they meet within the wall of the house. This is difficult to achieve in practice without damaging the existing barrier and a simpler alternative is to cut a chase in the wall slightly above or below the existing one to tuck the new barrier in to. If the existing house has a beam and block or suspended timber floor, care should be taken to ensure that the provision of subfloor ventilation is maintained. It is recommended that you have your house measured for radon before plans are prepared. Ideally measurement should be over at least 3 months; the Health Protection Agency (HPA) can provide detectors for this purpose. If radon levels at your property exceed the current recommended action level, you can incorporate appropriate protection measures into your building project. USEFUL CONTACTS Centre for Radiation, Chemical and Environmental Hazards Chilton, Didcot, Oxon. OX11 0RQ Telephone +44 (0) Fax +44 (0) British Geological Survey Keyworth, Nottingham NG12 5GG enquiries@bgs.ac.uk Telephone: Fax: Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home 45

48 Selling Your Property When buying and selling a house it can be a stressful and daunting process. In order to assist you in ensuring that some of the problems commonly encountered when selling a house are dealt with at an early stage with the help of Building Control it may be possible to reduce the chance of delay or the risk of losing that important sale. How can Building Control assist with selling your home? During the conveyance process your solicitors will normally require you to fill out a fixtures and fittings document. Within this document you are required to identify any building work that has been carried out that required a Building Regulations application. If alterations and extensions to buildings have been carried out without Building Regulations approval, these will come to light during the purchasers solicitor sales investigations, if the relevant completion certificates are not in place then this could delay the sale of your property. I have Building Regulations approval but I do not have a completion certificate. If an outstanding Building Regulations application is in place, but a completion certificate has not been issued, then it is important to arrange for one of our Building Control team to carry out the completion inspection at the earliest opportunity, so that upon satisfactory inspection of all relevant aspects of construction a completion certificate can be issued ready for the solicitors. Work has been carried out but I wasn t aware I needed a Building Regulations application. This guide has been published to avoid this happening however if you find yourself in this situation it will be necessary to apply for a Regularisation Certificate. This is a retrospective Building Regulation application that can be used for any work carried out after In most cases the work will have been finished, this means that certain elements of the work may need to be opened up in order to establish compliance with the Building Regulations. Contact Building Control If you have any questions or would like to arrange for us to visit your property to carry out an inspection please contact us using the details contained in the contacts page. 46 Mid Sussex guide to extending or converting your home

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