Best Available Techniques in the Textile Sector. Brigitte Zietlow German Federal Environment Agency

Transcription

1 Best Available Techniques in the Textile Sector Brigitte Zietlow German Federal Environment Agency

2 2 Outline Overview over textile industry in Europe Status of the BREF Textile Industry Examples for Best Available Techniques

3 3 Overview over the European Textile & Clothing sector T&C industry is among the largest industrial branch in the EU Predominantly small and medium-sized enterprises second world exporter in textiles and clothing (26% of global sales) largest world market for textile and clothing products (household consumption of nearly 500 Billion Euro) Companies (number) Employment (1000 Pers.) Turnover (bil. ) Extra EU imports (bil. ) Extra EU exports (bil. ) Extra EU trade balance (bil. ) Man made ,6 fibres textile ,6 24,4 21,8 2,7 clothing ,1 65,2 20,3 44,9 total ,3 89,6 42,1 47,6 Quelle: Euratex

4 4 Overview over the European Textile & Clothing sector Main textile suppliers for the EU Main clothing suppliers for the EU 30,5% 32,5% China Turkey India Pakistan 21,7% 3,2% 42,7% China Bangladesh Turkey India 4,2% 16,3% USA others 6,2% Tunisia others 6,8% 9,7% 13,1% 13,1% Quelle: Eurostat

5 5 Overview over the European Textile & Clothing sector Italy, France, UK and Germany, Spain accounting for about three quarters of EU production of textiles and clothing European producers are world leaders in markets for technical/industrial textiles and non-wovens (for example industrial filters or products for the automotive industry or the medical sector), as well as for high quality garments with a high design content

6 6 Status and scope of the BREF Textile Industry The BREF Textile Industry is the major outcome of the European information exchange on BAT for the sector The BREF provides a lot of information on available techniques, particularly on those identified as BAT First issue of the BREF Textile Industry published in 2003 Revision is planned for 2015 In Germany information exchange has started already

7 7 Status and scope of the BREF Textile Industry Spinning of fibres Yarn manufacturing weaving, knitting, non-woven technologies Cloth manufacturing Finishing processes pretreatment, dyeing, printing, coating, finishing Make-up cutting, sewing, assembling Fibre manufacturing: Natural fibres/man-made fibres BREF Textile Industry Use Disposal Scope: Textile finishing operations where the treatment capacity exceeds 10 tonnes per day Additionally included: Upstream processes with influence on the environmental impact of finishing processes backing of carpets Trade

8 8 Environmental issues of textile finishing Leaking Chemicals likely to enter the groundwater in a mixing station for chemicals (carpet factory in Egypt) Ca textile auxiliaries with approx single substances Up to 300 m³ Water per ton finished textile High chemical load of the waste water with non biodegradable auxiliaries Energy consumption Air emissions Solid wastes Odours

9 9 EXAMPLES FOR BAT

10 10 Generic BAT for whole textile industry (I) Section 5.1 Generic BAT includes BATs for e.g.: Management and good housekeeping Implementation of environmental awareness in training programmes Maintenance and cleaning Monitoring system for process inputs and outputs BAT for Selection & use of chemicals Water & energy management Use of low- and ultra-low liquor ratio machinery in batch processes Improvement of washing efficiency in both batch and continuous processing Use of heat recovery systems for off-gases Use of frequency-controlled electric motors BAT for Management of waste streams

11 11 Generic BAT for whole textile industry (II) implementation of a monitoring system for process input and output precondition for identifying priority areas and options for improving environmental performance Input/output stream inventories can be drawn up on different levels (site level, process level)

12 12 Generic BAT for whole textile industry (III) Good housekeeping Equipment maintenance Maintain machinery, pumps and piping thoroughly and check for leaks Draw up maintenance plans that foresee regular maintenance and document all work activities Check and clean filters regularly

13 13 Generic BAT for whole textile industry (IV) Measures for reduction of energy consumption heat-insulation of pipes, valves, tanks, machines segregation of hot and cold waste water streams prior to heat recovery and recovery of heat from the hot stream. optimising boiler houses (re-use of condensed water, preheating of air supply, heat recovery in combustion gases) installing frequency-controlled electric motors installing heat recovery systems on waste offgases energy savings up to 70% for heat recovery on waste gases on stenters heat-insulation of pipes Increased insulation on the stenters alone from 120 mm to 150 mm saves 20 percent of energy BREF Textile Industry Chapter 4.1.1

14 14 Process-integrated measures for Textile finishing (I) Pretreatment Desizing select raw material processed with low add-on techniques combine desizing/scouring and bleaching in one single step recover and re-use the sizing agents by ultrafiiltration Bleaching use hydrogen peroxide bleaching as preferred bleaching agent Mercerising recover and re-use alkali from mercerising rinsing water

15 15 Cotton processing recovery of sizing material Sizing agents are the main source of COD in waste water Water-soluble synthetic sizing agents such as polyvinyl alcohol, carboxymethyl cellulose and polyacrylates can be recovered by ultrafiltration After ultrafiltration the concentrate can be reused for sizing The permeate can be recycled and re-used as water in the washing machine Recycling of sizing agents is only technically and economically reasonable for integrated finishers with weaving and finishing near by Recovery rates for sizing agents % COD load is reduced by % BREF Textile Industry Chapter 4.5.1

16 16 Process-integrated measures for Textile finishing (II) Dyeing General BAT for batch dyeing processes select new machinery with low- or ultra-low liquor ratio BAT for continuous dyeing processes using low add-on liquor application systems BAT for PES & PES blends dyeing with disperse dyes avoid the use of hazardous carriers BAT for dyeing with sulphur dyes replace sodium sulphide with sulphur-free reducing agents BAT for batch dyeing with reactive dyes BAT for pad-batch dyeing with reactive dyes BAT for wool dyeing

17 17 Process-integrated measures for Textile finishing (III) Dyeing Preference should be given to jet and package dyers and pad batch techniques instead of winch dyers to reduce liquor-to-fabric ratios Minimisation of dye liquor losses in pad dyeing techniques use of U-shaft trough (figure A) carrying out the impregnation step in a nip (figure B) a reduction of the residues of unused liquor up to 95 % will be achieved

18 18 Process-integrated measures for Textile finishing (IV) Printing / Finishing Reactive printing avoid the use of urea Pigment printing use optimised printing pastes with reduced ammonia content Easy-care finishing treatment Formaldehyde-free or formaldehyde-poor cross-linking agents in the textile industry

19 19 Waste water treatment (I) General principles for waste water management and treatment Characterizing the different waste water streams arising from the process Segregate the effluents at source according to their contaminant type and load To ensure that a treatment facility receives only those pollutants it can cope with To enable the application of recycling or re-use options for the effluent Employ alternative cleaning techniques for waste water with relevant volumes of non-biodegradable substances: chemical oxidation for highly-polluted, selected, non-biodegradable waste water partial flows (e.g. desizing baths) Precipitation and flocculation for partial flows containing heavy metals membrane process for heavily coloured waste water partial flows and waste water with a high volume of dissolved substances 3-way valve for segregation of effluents Segregated effluents destined for different treatments

20 20 Waste water treatment (VII) Treatment of mixed effluent Case example A: Treatment of mixed effluent in activated sludge system effluent from one textile finishing mill is treated company mainly finishes cotton fabric about 5 % of the treated waste water is recycled for washing and cleaning operations (floor washing, cleaning of printing equipment such as pumps, pipes, squeegees and screens) decolourisation is achieved through reductive cleavage of azo groups of dyestuffs by an iron(ii)-salt

21 21 Influent Effluent ph COD [mg O 2 /l] BOD 5 [mg O 2 /l] NH 4 -N [mg N/l] N-org [mg N/l] P total [mg P/l] < Scheme of the treatment of mixed effluent in activated sludge system

22 22 Waste Management processes should be designed and operated to prevent, or minimize, the quantities of wastes generated separate collection of unavoidable solid waste minimize hazardous waste generation by implementing stringent waste segregation to prevent the contamination of nonhazardous with hazardous waste reduction of packaging use of returnable containers returnable containers

23 23 Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector Guideline on the basis of the BREFs Developed in cooperation with brands, retailers and civic institutions Objectives: Facilitate the access to the BREFs Enter into a practical dialogue along the supply chain

24 24 Environmental information The Blue Angel BATs are used for standard setting in the German product label Blue Angel The Blue Angel is the first environment-related label for products and services in the world. (since 1978) The Blue Angel is awarded to products and services which - from a holistic point of view - are of considerable benefit to the environment and, at the same time, meet high standards of serviceability, health, and occupational protection.

25 25 Blue Angel for Textiles Origin of natural fibres and cellulose Manufacturing processes of the fibres (including synthetic fibres) Biodegradation of textile auxiliaries Pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and finishing Wastewater and air emissions from textile finishing Exclusion of certain substances in chemicals, auxiliaries and colorants Other material requirements and tests on final product Usability Packaging Consumer information Working conditions

26 26 Thank you for your attention!

27 27 Useful links BREF Textile Industry: Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector: Checklists based on BAT in the textile industry: Cleaner production Germany: Blue Angel for textiles: Carbon Performance Improvement Initiative