Solving complex textile recycling - from ideas to piloting

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1 VTT TECHNICAL RESEARCH CENTRE OF FINLAND LTD Solving complex textile recycling - from ideas to piloting Textil Transformation Circular Materials Conferece Prof. Ali Harlin, D.Sc.

2 Uncontrolled export to third countries ends Consumers Industry surplus flows SUPPLY Circular economy LOGISTICS Education COLLECTION New businesses The product in its original intended use SORTING Manual sorting Employment opportunities Recycled as material REFINEMENT Chemical Robotics Presorting Communication Crosssectoral cooperation Mechanical FINAL PRODUCT Administrative and economic instruments Energy Increase in textile value Reuse Raw material Research and innovations RECOVERER Domestic competence Industry Export

3 YM project Main coordinator LSJH Total budget and other investors Consists of three experiments TEKES project Main coordinator VTT Companies own projects Public part Total budget 2,3M Consists of six work packets Additionally, includes companies and organisations participating with work, networks, material use and communication. Also international cooperation.

4 A project for regional recycling experiments of municipal Main coordinator Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy, project manager Sini Ilmonen. Advisory steering group with the Tekes project. Executive board consisting of organisations and investors in the project Ministy of Environment share of funding Other investors in the project: Jätelaitos yhdistys, Suomen Tekstiili & Muoti ry, Lännen tekstiilihuolto, city of Turku ja Ekokem/Fortum Waste Solutions. Objectives 1. Finding the best nationwide solutions for end-of-life textile collection, sorting and processing, and spreading these solutions. 2. Increasing the recycling rate of municipal waste 3. Creating a national Telaketju network to coordinate the cooperation. 4. Building a strong Finnish value chain of end-of-life textile utilisation.

5 EXPERIMENT 1 Creating a national end-of-life textile recycling network and supporting its function Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy partnered with TUAS, Finnish Environment Institute SYKE and Valonia EXPERIMENT 2 Regional textile sorting at the place of origin, textile reception and consumer communication Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy with UFF, Ekopartnerit and TUAS EXPERIMENT 3 Expertise for textile sorting Textile sorter training Telakoulu Pääkaupunkiseudun kierrätyskeskus with Pirkanmaan kierrätys ja työtoiminta ry, Turun seudun TST ry, TUAS and Fida International

6 Technologies and concepts VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland has developed a highly costefficient hyperspectral imaging technology, which enables the introduction of new artificial intelligence applications into consumer devices. Spectral filtering technology takes advantage of the very-near-infrared (VNIR) wavelengths, which even lowcost mobile phone cameras can detect. Material as a service 15/03/2018 Blockchain has emerged as a disruptive technology that will have a profound impact on the way digital data and value is handled. In short, blockchain is an immutable public record of data that is cryptographically protected and secured by a network of peer-to-peer participants. This technology enables trust between two parties also in recycling materials ZenRobotics is the world s leading supplier of robotic waste separation technology.robots provide a new, more efficient solution to an old problem. Robotic waste separation will revolutionize the waste processing industry the same way that industrial robots transformed other industries. 6

7 Sustainable textile in Finland Technologies and companies StoraEnso (Ioncel) Metsä Fiber Itucchu (Ioncel) Infinited fiber Company (CCA) CO/PES fractiontion Spinnova (fiber yarn) Pure Waste Textiles (MechRecycle) Lyocel ja tencel: Lenzing high quality man-made cellulose fibers, also recycled Ioncel ja Ioncel-F: Laboratory phase, improved Lyocel by Aalto and UH, recycling to gether with VTT Cellulose carbamate: Soft, cotton like industrially producable in viscose process, in piloting phase by Infinited Fiber Company. BioCelSol: Laboratory phase, replace viscose, originally TUT now in VTT for scale-up. Spinnova yarn: Several promising applications, replace wool and thick cotton yarn, piloted by Spinnova. 15/03/2018 7

8 VTT textile start ups Infinited Fiber What: Licensing cellulose fiber manufacturing technology Estabilished: Vuonna 2016 Espoo, Finland CEO: Petri Alava Turnover: 0,12 milj. euro (2017). Target for 2018 is 1,5 milj. euro. Profit: 0,01 milj. euro Target for 2018 is -0,5 milj. euro. Co-workers: 7 Spinnova Mikä: Sellupohjaisten kuitujen valmistaja ja valmistusteknologian kehittäjä Established: 2014 Jyväskylä, Finland CEO: Janne Poranen Turnover: 1,1 milj. euro 2016 Profit: Lost 0,13 milj. euro 2016 Co-workers: 11 15/03/2018 8

9 Foam-laid nonwovens from cellulosic fibres Semi pilot scale - Hydroentanglement Brilliant formation in the case of long fibres, even though high forming consistency applied Mechanical bonding instead of chemical bonding aspect for sustainability Widening of raw material combinations process simplifying After drying Hydroentangled Mechanical bonding of foam laid nonwovens (MECBO), VTT internal project, /03/2018 9

10 Value chain build on recycling Pure Waste Textiles is on of most progressed fully recycled fiber applier in Finalnd and the world. Technology is based on mechanical recycling to fibers and converting to textile products. Turnover: ,6 milj. euro. Personel: 11 TouchPoint was born out of passion to do good and right. Our story began in 2008 when Carita Peltonen decided to start practicing good and profitable business as a means to spread the word of sustainable development. They apply surpluss textiles. Turnover: ,9 milj. euroa. Personel: 8. RAFLA by TouchPoint 15/03/

11 CCA in advanced fiber application Customer needs : Requirement 1: the production speed for modern textile machinery is continuosly increasing and thus more durable fiber is needed Requirement 2: functional additives usually decrease the strength of hybrid fiber and thus the basic strengt should be as high as possible VTT s solutions : Stretching of the fiber during the drying section. Use of the plastiziser for control of gelling mechanism and protecting the fiber from surface defect Enhanced mechanical properties for end products and production Enable competition with Viscose fibers Milestones: 1. Late 90 s Cone extrusion and ideas for reactive extrusion; rise of bio materials 2. CP Kelco asked CMC manufacturing for extruder solvent free Mechano Chemical Dry Technique 3. Project with Kelco Eino S from Neste 99 -> VTT; proposal to try Cellca concept with dry tech -> first patent and PCT 5. Kelco joined to VTT for CCA; project 02-06; + Visko, Alstrom, Innovia Films Industrial feasibility 6. Kelco withdrew from CCA; search of new partners (even from China) 7. Recreation of Säteri -> Avilon & Carbatech; project 11-13; functional fiber; high strength fiber 8. Applying recycled paper pulp for CCA textile fibers (VTT own development) 9. Applying recycled cotton for CCA Textile fibres (Tekes TEKI project) -> shown in real process 10. Tekide = estabilhsed pilot line and taken it in us 2017 Essentials: Time scale from idea to industrial realization; market changes; strategic changes 15/03/

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13 The Relooping Fashion Initiative

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