III SIMPÓSIO FibEnTech Materiais Fibrosos e Tecnologias Ambientais LIVRO DE ATAS

Transcription

1

2 III SIMPÓSIO FibEnTech 2018 Materiais Fibrosos e Tecnologias Ambientais LIVRO DE ATAS COVILHÃ, UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR 21 DE SETEMBRO DE 2018

3 Reservados todos os direitos Título: Atas do III Simpósio Materiais Fibrosos e Tecnologias Ambientais FibEnTech - Universidade da Beira Interior 21 de setembro de 2018, Covilhã Portugal Coordenador da Edição: Manuel José dos Santos Silva Comissão Organizadora: Manuel José dos Santos Silva Annabel Dias Barrocas Fernandes Sónia Cristina Lopes Sousa Comissão Científica: Manuel José dos Santos Silva Ana Maria Carreira Lopes José Mendes Lucas Rogério Manuel Simões Apoio Técnico: Annabel Fernandes Sónia Sousa ISBN: Apoios:

4 ÍNDICE Full Papers Environmental application of SrFeO 3 photoanodes M.J. Nunes, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco, L. Ciríaco...1 A study on new technologies applied to fashion design S.G. Marques, C.E. Fernandes, R. Miguel, J.A.B. Barata...4 Approach to effluent treatment in the automobile industry in Portugal R. Silva, J. Fonseca, L. Ciríaco, M.J. Pacheco, A. Lopes...6 Blind People and clothing purchase: A Theoretical Approach L. Pina, J. Lucas, P. Duarte, P. Martins, R.A.L. Miguel...9 Electrochemical oxidation of effluents from a wool fabric dyeing process and their reuse C.G. Pinto, E. Pinheiro, A. Marques, L. Ciríaco, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco...12 NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3 Environmental Application: Acid Orange 7 Photoelectrocatalys A.S. Rodrigues, L. Ciríaco, M.J. Pacheco, A. Lopes...15 Fashion Library UBI-Platform P2P S.R. Fernandes, J.M. Lucas, M.J. Madeira, A. Cruchinho, I.D. Honório...17 Nitrate removal in vertical flow constructed wetland using two different plant species: Vetiveria zizanioides and Oryza sativa A. Almeida, M.J. Imaginário, C. Ribeiro, F. Carvalho...21 Chemical composition of n-hexane extract from Lippia multiflora Moldenke collected in Angola M. Nelo, N.S. Samba, L. Silva, P. Rocha, J. Rodilla...25 Fashionable and functional wool fabrics: clothing design for outdoor activities B. Reis, L. Ribeiro, R.A.L. Miguel, M. Pereira, J.M. Lucas, J. Carvalho, M.J.S. Silva...29 Fashion Design Entrepreneurs: Research Conclusions C.E. Fernandes, M.M. Pereira, M.J. Madeira...32 Studies on the adsorption kinetics of azo dyes L.Canelo, R. Oliveira, C. Louro, I.C. Gonçalves, A.M. Marques, A. Lopes, I. Ferra...35 Presentation of InPaCTus R&D Project: Eucalyptus globulus Pulp Suitability for Tissue Paper F.P. Morais, J.M.R. Curto, M.E.C.C. Amaral...38

5 Abstracts Production and characterization of nanocellulose-based bioactive films by incorporation of an essential oil and its main compound V. Lopes, S. Sousa, A.P. Costa, R. Simões, M.E. Amaral...41 Reactivity of hydrotalcites C. Lopes, J. Rodilla, D. Díez, I. Tobal, A. Martín...42 Rheological behavior and production of high performance yarns from nano/microfibrillated vegetal cellulose V.L.D. Costa, A.P. Costa, R.M.S. Simões...43 Extraction conditions and characterization of lignin isolated from cherry tree residues M. Tenreiro, R.E. Boto, L. Breitenfeld, M.E. Amaral, A.P. Duarte...44 Eugenol loaded into electrospun PCL/PVA/Chitosan nanofibrous mats by emulsion electrospinning to development of innovative wound dressing C. Mouro, M. Simões, I.C. Gouveia...45 Layer-by-layer deposition of bioactive polyelectrolytes with incorporation of antimicrobial agents as a new strategy to develop bioactive textiles A.P. Gomes, I.C. Gouveia, J.F. Mano, J.A. Queiroz...46 The influence of FTS crystals on PEDOT conductivity P. Baptista, G. Soares, R. Simões, R. Miguel...47 Upstream and downstream processing of microbial pigments and polymers L.F.A. Amorim, R. Fangueiro, I.C. Gouveia...48 Synthesis of Pseudo-C-Nucleosides, potentially bioactive, for the treatment of Bipolar Disorder M. Gomes, M. Lucas, J.A. Figueiredo, S. Silvestre, M.I. Ismael...49 Unisex clothes plus androgyny bodies equals genderless fashion B. Reis, M.M.R. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N. Jerónimo, R. Miguel...51 Studying the contexts that influence the creativity of the Fashion Designers working in the Portuguese textile and apparel industry - PhD thesis J.A.B. Barata, R.A.L. Miguel, S.G. Azevedo...52 Co-creation and the fashion supply chain: benefits and challenges for the future P. Martins, R.A.L. Miguel, L. Pina, J.M. Lucas, M. Pereira...53

6 FibEnTech - Fiber Materials and Environmental Technologies 3 rd Symposium of the FibEnTech Research Unit: Fiber Materials and Environmental Technologies Faculty of Engineering, 21 September 2018 Conference Programme 9:00-9:20 Registration, Anfiteatro 8.1, Faculty of Engineering 9:20-10:00 WELCOME SESSION AND PRESENTATION OF THE RESEARCH UNIT OF FIBER MATERIALS AND ENVIRONMENTAL TECHNOLOGIES José Páscoa Marques, Vice Rector - Universidade da Beira Interior Sílvio Simões Mariano, President of the Faculty of Engineering - Universidade da Beira Interior Manuel José dos Santos Silva, Coordinator of the FibEnTech Research Unit - Universidade da Beira Interior José Lucas, Fiber Materials - Textile Group Coordinator Rogério Simões, Fiber Materials - Cellulose Group Coordinator Ana Carreira Lopes, Environmental Technologies Group Coordinator 10:00-11:00 SESSION I Oral Presentations Chairpersons: Arlindo Gomes, Caroline Loss and Paulo Fiadeiro 10:00-10:20 Production and characterization of nanocellulose-based bioactive films by incorporation of an essential oil and its main compound V. Lopes 1, S. Sousa 1,2, A.P. Costa 1,2, R. Simões 1,2, M.E. Amaral 1,2 1 Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 10:20-10:40 Environmental application of SrFeO 3 photoanodes M.J. Nunes, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco, L. Ciríaco FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal 10:40-11:00 A study on new technologies applied to fashion design S.G. Marques 1, C.E Fernandes 1,2, R. Miguel 1,2, J.A.B. Barata 1,2 1 Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilha, Portugal 11:00-11:20 Coffee Break 11:20-13:00 SESSION II Oral Presentations Chairpersons: Fátima Carvalho, Joana Curto and Sónia Sousa 11:20-11:40 Reactivity of hydrotalcites C. Lopes 1, J. Rodilla 1, D. Díez 2, I. Tobal 2, A. Martín 2 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Faculty of Chemistry Sciences, Universidad de Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain

7 11:40-12:00 Rheological behaviour and production of high performance yarns from nano/microfibrillated vegetal cellulose V.L.D. Costa, A.P. Costa, R.M.S. Simões FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 12:00-12:20 Approach to effluent treatment in the automobile industry in Portugal R. Silva 1,2, J. Fonseca 2, L. Ciríaco 1, M.J. Pacheco 1, A. Lopes 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 BAU Special Solutions, Torres Novas/Covilhã, Portugal 12:20-12:40 Blind People and clothing purchase: A Theoretical Approach L. Pina 1, J. Lucas 1, P. Duarte 2, P. Martins 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 NECE-UBI and Department of Management and Economics, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 12:40-13:00 Electrochemical oxidation of effluents from a wool fabric dyeing process and 13:00-14:30 Lunch their reuse C.G. Pinto, E. Pinheiro, A. Marques, L. Ciríaco, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 14:30-16:30 SESSION III Oral Presentations Chairpersons: Dina Mendonça, Lúcia Silva and Rui Miguel 14:30-14:50 NT-TiO 2 /BaTiO 3 Environmental Application: Acid Orange 7 Photoelectrocatalys A.S. Rodrigues, L. Ciríaco, M.J. Pacheco, A. Lopes FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 14:50-15:10 Extraction conditions and characterization of lignin isolated from cherry tree residues M. Tenreiro 1,2, R.E. Boto 1,2, L. Breitenfeld 1, M.E. Amaral 2,3, A.P. Duarte 1 1 CICS-UBI, Faculty of Health Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 15:10-15:30 Fashionable and functional wool fabrics: clothing design for outdoor activities B. Reis 1, L. Ribeiro 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1, M. Pereira 1, J.M. Lucas 1, J. Carvalho 2, M.J.S. Silva 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FITECOM - Comercialização e Industrialização Têxtil, S. A., Covilhã, Portugal 15:30-15:50 Fashion Design Entrepreneurs: Research Conclusions C.E. Fernandes 1, M.M. Pereira 2, M.J. Madeira 3 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 UNIDCOM-IADE-UE

8 3 NECE-UBI and Department of Management and Economics, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 15:50-16:10 Fashion Library UBI-Platform P2P S.R. Fernandes 1, J.M. Lucas 1, M.J. Madeira 2, A. Cruchinho 3, I.D. Honório 4 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 NECE-UBI and Department of Management and Economics, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, Castelo Branco, Portugal 4 State University of Londrina, Londrina, PR, Brasil 16:10-16:30 Nitrate removal in vertical flow constructed wetland using two different plant species: Vetiveria zizanioides and Oryza sativa A. Almeida 1,2, M.J. Imaginário 1, C. Ribeiro 1, F. Carvalho 1,2 1 Departamento de Ciências e Tecnologias Aplicadas, Escola Superior Agrária de Beja, Instituto Politécnico de Beja (IPBeja), Beja Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 16:30-16:50 Coffee Break 16:50-18:00 SESSION IV Poster Flash Presentations Chairpersons: Ana Ramos, Annabel Fernandes and Lurdes Ciríaco Eugenol loaded into electrospun PCL/PVA/Chitosan nanofibrous mats by emulsion electrospinning to development of innovative wound dressing C. Mouro 1, M. Simões 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Faculty of Engineering, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Department of Chemical Engineering (LEPABE), Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto, Porto, Portugal Unisex clothes plus androgyny bodies equals genderless fashion B. Reis 1, M. Pereira 1, S. Azevedo 2, N. Jerónimo 3, R.A.L. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 LabCom.IFP, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Layer-by-Layer deposition of bioactive polyelectrolytes with incorporation of antimicrobial agents as a new strategy to develop bioactive textiles A.P. Gomes 1,2, I.C. Gouveia 2, J.F. Mano 3,4, J. Queiroz 5 1 Optical Centre and Electron Microscopy Lab, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 3B s Research Group, Universidade do Minho, Braga, Portugal 4 ICVS/3B s PT Government Associate Laboratory, Braga, Portugal 5 CICS-UBI Health Sciences Research Centre, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Chemical composition of n-hexane extract from Lippia multiflora Moldenke collected in Angola

9 M. Nelo, N.S. Samba, L. Silva, P. Rocha, J. Rodilla FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Studying the contexts that influence the creativity of the Fashion Designers working in the Portuguese textile and apparel industry - PhD thesis J.A.B. Barata 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1, S.G. Azevedo 2 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal The influence of FTS crystals on PEDOT conductivity P. Baptista 1, G. Soares 2, R. Simões 3, R. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 Textile Engineering Department, Universidade do Minho, Guimarães, Portugal 3 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal InPaCTus R&D Tissue - Project 1 Presentation: Eucalyptus globulus Pulp Suitability for Tissue Paper F.P. Morais 1, J.M.R. Curto 1,2, M.E. Amaral 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 CIEPQPF - Chemical Process Engineering and Forest Products Research Centre, Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal Co-creation and the fashion supply chain: benefits and challenges for the future P. Martins, R.A.L. Miguel, L. Pina, J.M. Lucas, M. Pereira FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Upstream and downstream processing of microbial pigments and polymers L.F.A. Amorim 1, R. Fangueiro 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T), University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal 18:00 Scientific Council of the FibEnTech Research Unit POSTERS Eugenol loaded into electrospun PCL/PVA/Chitosan nanofibrous mats by emulsion electrospinning to development of innovative wound dressings C. Mouro 1, M. Simões 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Faculty of Engineering, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Department of Chemical Engineering (LEPABE), Faculty of Engineering of University of Porto, Porto, Portugal Unisex clothes plus androgyny bodies equals genderless fashion B. Reis 1, M. Pereira 1, S. Azevedo 2, N. Jerónimo 3, R.A.L. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 LabCom.IFP, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal

10 Layer-by-Layer deposition of bioactive polyelectrolytes with incorporation of antimicrobial agents as a new strategy to develop bioactive textiles A.P. Gomes 1,2, I.C. Gouveia 2, J.F. Mano 3,4, J. Queiroz 5 1 Optical Centre and Electron Microscopy Lab, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 3B s Research Group, Universidade do Minho, Braga, Portugal 4 ICVS/3B s PT Government Associate Laboratory, Braga, Portugal 5 CICS-UBI Health Sciences Research Centre, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Chemical composition of n-hexane extract from Lippia multiflora Moldenke collected in Angola M. Nelo, N.S. Samba, L. Silva, P. Rocha, J. Rodilla FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Studying the contexts that influence the creativity of the Fashion Designers working in the Portuguese textile and apparel industry - PhD thesis J.A.B. Barata 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1, S.G. Azevedo 2 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal The influence of FTS crystals on PEDOT conductivity P. Baptista 1, G. Soares 2, R. Simões 3, R.A.L. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 Textile Engineering Department, Universidade do Minho, Guimarães, Portugal 3 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal InPaCTus R&D Tissue - Project 1 Presentation: Eucalyptus globulus Pulp Suitability for Tissue Paper F.P. Morais 1, J.M.R. Curto 1,2, M.E. Amaral 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 CIEPQPF - Chemical Process Engineering and Forest Products Research Centre, Department of Chemical Engineering, Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal Co-creation and the fashion supply chain: benefits and challenges for the future P. Martins, R.A.L. Miguel, L. Pina, J.M. Lucas, M. Pereira FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Upstream and downstream processing of microbial pigments and polymers L.F.A. Amorim 1, R. Fangueiro 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T), University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal Synthesis of Pseudo-C-Nucleosides, potentially bioactive, for the treatment of Bipolar Disorder M. Gomes 1, M. Lucas 1, J.A. Figueiredo 1, S. Silvestre 2, M.I. Ismael 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 CICS-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Studies on biosorption kinetics of azo dyes L. Canelo, R. Oliveira, C. Louro, I.C. Gonçalves, A.M. Marques, A. Lopes, I. Ferra FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal

11 Environmental application of SrFeO3 photoanodes M.J. Nunes, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco, L. Ciríaco FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The aim of this work was to determine the photo, electro and photoelectrocatalytic activity of strontium ferrite disc electrodes, under visible light, in the degradation of a model pollutant, Acid Orange 7. The oxide was synthesized by solid solid-state reaction and characterized structurally and morphologically by X- ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy, respectively. The obtained powder was immobilized into a disc shaped pellet and applied in the photo, electro and photoelectro degradation of Acid Orange 7. The results showed an improvement in the degradation of the dye when the combined photoelectrocatalytic process was applied. Introduction Perovskite oxides are a well-known group of compounds with general formula ABO 3 with the A site commonly occupied by an alkaline-earth metal or a rare earth element and the B site by a transition-metal element. They possess a very stable and flexible structure that can range from cubic to triclinic symmetry, i.e., from high to very low symmetry. This characteristic explains the wide range of properties and consequent applications, including as photo and electro catalysts in water decontamination [1]. A photocatalytic reaction is initiated on the perovskite surface by radiation with energy equal or above to the difference between its valence band (VB) and conduction band (CB), also known as the material s band gap energy (E g). This excites the electrons (e - ) in the VB to the CB, leaving positive holes or vacancies (h + ) in the VB (Eq. 1). perovskite + hν e - + h + (1) These electron-vacancy (e - /h + ) pairs are strong reducing and oxidizing agents, respectively, and are responsible for the formation of highly reactive species, such as superoxide radical ions (O 2 - ) and hydroxyl radicals (HO ) - Eq. 2 and 3: e - + O 2 O 2 - (2) h + + H 2O HO + H + (3) These radicals will react with the organic compounds in solution leading to its degradation and, ideally, to a full mineralization. The efficiency of these reactions is directly associated with the E g values and recombination rate of the photogenerated charges [1,2]. A way to increase the efficiency of the photocatalytic reaction is by accelerating the e - /h + pairs formation and delaying, or suppressing, the recombination of the photogenerated charges, which can be achieved by applying an electrochemical current to the catalyst [2]. In this work, strontium ferrite (SrFeO 3) electrodes were prepared and tested in the photo, electro and photoelectrocatalytic degradation of the dye Acid Orange 7 (AO7), under visible light. Materials and Methods Strontium ferrite powder was synthesized by conventional solid-state reaction. Stoichiometric amounts of SrCO 3 (Merck, 99.9%) and Fe 2O 3 (Merck, 99%) were mechanically grinded in an agate mortar, and heated at 900 ºC, for 24 h. Intermediate regrinding and a final heating at 1200 ºC, for 24 h, was performed. The resulting powder was structurally characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD), on a Rigaku difractometer, model DMAX III/C with automatic data acquisition (APD Philips v3.5b), equipped with a monochromatized Cu k α radiation (λ= nm), operating at 40 ma and 30 kv. The recording conditions were 2θ between 10 and 90º at a scanning rate of 1.2º/min. The XRD results were processed in the Unitcell refinement program [3]. The morphological characterization was achieved by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), using a Hitachi S2700 scanning electron microscope, operating at 20 kev. The strontium ferrite disk electrode was prepared by pressing 0.65 g of the prepared powder into a 1.3 cm 2 geometric area pellet, which was later sintered at 1200 ºC, for 6 h. The ohmic contacts were done as described elsewhere [4]. All heating procedures were performed in a tubular furnace (Carbolite, model STF, with a Carbolite 3216 temperature controller). The catalytic activity of the SrFeO 3 pellet electrode was tested through photo, electro and phtotoelectrocatalytic experiments. Degradation assays of AO7 (Sigma Aldrich, 75%) aqueous solutions (25 mg L -1 ) were performed in a simple-compartment three-electrodes cell with a strontium ferrite working electrode, an Ag/AgCl,KCl sat commercial reference electrode and a Pt foil counter-electrode. For the photocatalytic assays an Osram ultra-vitalux 300 W lamp was used as a source of visible radiation and for the electrocatalytic experiments a current density of 1 ma cm -2 and a concentration of 5 g L -1 of electrolyte (Na 2SO 4) was applied. The dye content was monitored, in intervals of two hours, for a total assay time of 8 h, by UV-Visible absorption spectrophotometry (Shimadzu UV-1800 spectrophotometer). Results and Discussion The XRD pattern for the synthesized strontium ferrite powder is presented in Fig. 1. The diffraction lines 1

12 indicate that the oxide exhibits a well-crystallized single phase belonging to the cubic cell of the SrFeO 3 perovskite, Pm3m space group (ICDD file PDF# ). The calculated cell parameter, a = nm, and unit volume, V = nm 3, are in accordance with the theoretical values, nm and nm 3, respectively. Fig 2. shows the SEM micrography of the prepared powder where a polycrystalline homogeneous morphology is observed θ/º Fig. 1. XRD pattern of the synthesized SrFeO 3 powder Fig. 3, (a) and (b), is possible to see the difference in the variation of the AO7 UV-Vis spectra during the electro and photoelectrocatalytic degradation assays, respectively. The variation of absorbance, especially in the UV region, suggests different degradation mechanisms that originate different metabolites. The photoelectrocatalytic assay achieved the best dye removal after 8 h, 74 %, for the 484 nm band. This could be explained by the synergistic effect between photo and electro catalysis, in which the applied current to the SrFeO 3 photoanode promoted the formation of the e - /h + pairs and suppressed the recombination of the charges. Abs (a) wavelength/nm wavelength/nm Fig. 3 AO7 UV-Vis spectrum variation during the 8- hour (a) electro and (b) photoelectrocatalytic degradation assays (b) 0h 2h 4h 6h 8h 1.0 Fig. 2. SEM micrography of the SrFeO 3 powder (x1000) The prepared circular pellet electrode was tested on the photo, electro and photoelectrocatalytic degradation of the model pollutant AO7. In the AO7 UV-Vis absorption spectrum, as seen in Fig. 3, three bands are easily identified: two located in the UV region, at 230 nm and 310 nm, corresponding to the π-π * transitions in the benzoic and naphthalene rings, respectively, and one in the visible region, at 484 nm, corresponding to the azo bond. Fig. 4 presents the normalized absorbance decays for all the performed assays at 484 nm. When comparing the obtained results for the photolytic and photocatalytic assays, under visible light, it is possible to observe that both present very similar behavior. This could be attributed to the small area of the pellet disc electrode ( 1.3 cm 2 ) as it proves to be insufficient to catalyze de AO7 degradation reaction. However, in the combined photoelectrocatalytic assay, an obvious influence of the photocatalytic properties of the SrFeO 3 is observed. In Abs/Abs 0 (484 nm) Photolysis Photocatalysis Electrocatalysis Photoelectrocatalysis Time/h Fig. 4 Normalized absorbance decay of AO7 solutions under photolytic, photo, electro and photoelectrocatalytic degradation, measured at 484 nm Conclusions SrFeO 3 oxide powder was successfully synthesized and exhibited a well-crystallized phase belonging to the cubic symmetry. The powder was pressed into pellets and applied as anode in the photo, electro and photoelectrocatalytic degradation of AO7. The photolytic and photocatalytic activities were very similar, which can be attributed to the small surface area of the electrode. The best dye removal, 74%, was achieved through the photoelectrocatalytic assay. This result suggests that the combination of the applied current with radiation enhances the catalytic properties of the material, through acceleration of e - /h + pairs formation and inhibition of the formed charges recombination. 2

13 Acknowledgements The authors acknowledge the financial support from Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, FCT, for the project UID/Multi/00195/2013 and for the PhD grant SFRH/BD/132436/2017 (M.J. Nunes). References [1] W. Wang, M. O. Tadé, Z. Shao, Research progress of perovskite materials in photocatalysis- and photovoltaicsrelated energy conversion and environmental treatment, Chem. Soc. Rev. 44, (2015) [2] M.E. Osugi, G.A. Umbuzeiro, F.J.V. De Castro, M.V.B. Zanoni, J. Hazard Mater. B137 (2006) [3] T.J.B. Holland, S.A.T. Redfernd, (1995) Unitcell, computer program developed at the University of Cambridge. [4] M.J. Pacheco, F. Regalado, D. Santos, L. Ciríaco, A. Lopes, Synthesis and environmental applications of BaPb 1-xSb xo 3 solid solutions, J. Electrochem. Soc. 161 (2014) H474-H480. 3

14 A study on new technologies applied to fashion design S.G. Marques, C.E. Fernandes, R. Miguel, J.A.B. Barata FibenTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract This article presents a project developed in the last year, applying technologies in the fashion industry, more particularly on 3D printing. The most diverse sectors have been influenced by the democratization of 3D printers. That's why fashion designers have been trying to apply 3D printing to their creations in order to look for a viable way to implement the technique. The adoption of 3D printing in clothing not only brings new advantages but also changes the entire production and design process as well as the relationship with the consumer. The application of fashionable printing is still very focused on the accessories, the wearables is the big sensation - from 3D-printed shoes to clothes and accessories, 3D printing is the fashion of the future, by the end of 2018, annual revenues from the global 3D printing market were estimated at 14 billion U.S. dollars and this numbers double each year [1]. Introduction Fashion is constantly evolving, but in the last few decades, we begun to see a fashion autophagy in which we have repeatedly reinvented past trends. Due to the voracious launch of the collections, there has been no time between each season to really have news, the search needs time [2][3]. To bring innovation, we are launching new materials and introducing more technology, representing what many consider part of the fourth industrial revolution in the context of fashion, where smart textiles or wearables gain more and more space in the market and prosumers increase every day [4]. From 2015 to 2016, sales of 3D printers jumped 108% and forecasts indicate significant increases in the coming years so that by 2020, more than 6.7 million 3D printing units are expected to be sold worldwide [5]. FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) is the most used technology (36%), and just behind is the SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) with 33% and finally, SLA (Stereolithography), with 25% of us. As for the materials, statistics indicate the predominance of PLA. Problem The fashion industry joined the additive manufacturing with Janne Kyttanen's Black Dress [6], the first functional dress in 3D printing. Although the introduction of this technique in the fashion industry is recent compared to traditional garment manufacturing methods, it has made significant progress and a growing number of enthusiastic designers trying to develop this type of products [7]. However, while there are many materials developed for printing and designers to develop their pieces, there is a recurring problem that translates into the rigidity of the parts obtained and consequently the lack of comfort and usability. That is why the commonly used 3D printing has developed more rapidly in the accessories sector (jewelry, bags ). Designers like Danit Peleg and Iris Van Herpen have created pieces of materials in flexible materials, but in the case of Danit Peleg, these pieces are numerous modules combined to form the clothes from the LIBERTY LEADING THE PEOPLE collection, a little like what is done regularly in materials like PLA to get a certain flexibility and adaptation to the body; she uses flexible filament known as FilaFlex from a Spanish company called (RECREUS) [8]. Iris Van Herpen presents us a dress from the BIOPIRACY collection using TPU 92A-1 and a silicon coating together with a design which allowed the material to move freely [9], although it is considered flexible, there is still a rigidity in the structure of the piece aspect. Through the realized investigation, we observed that there are still a number of problems that make it difficult to implement 3D printing as the final aspect of the piece with little detail or surface with a bad appearance. The need for larger printers that allow the integral printing of the part to avoid having to create several modules to be glued, which does not work as well; long printing time; the lack of materials more targeted to the textile industry. Moreover, the issue we consider the biggest is undoubtedly the lack of usability and comfort since the printed parts are mostly printed on very rigid materials without any adjustment to the body and impossible making movement the highly conceptual pieces, and the most adopted solution to combat this problem has been the creation of small modules that will be interconnected to create the integral piece. As fully 3D-printed pieces are still quite complex, some designers choose to design only a few printed details such as embellishments or use the print as embossed prints. Methodology As this study seeks to understand the implications of the introduction of new technologies in the Fashion Design process, an exhaustive literature review was made on the Fashion Designers who use innovative processes. On the other hand, data obtained through the literature review is also confronted with the results obtained through a personal work related consisted of printing a part with the FDM system and using the ABS. Discussion of the results 4

15 After a long search, it has decided to categorize 3 methods of applying to print on clothing. The first experiment consisted of ABS block printing with the FDM system. The result obtained was a very rigid piece that defragmented in layers due to the low temperature of the bed. Then the same procedure was performed, this time with PLA, where it was possible to print a piece with some quality but a lot of rigidity and no flexibility and locomotion ability. The second method consisted of using the same FDM technology and the same material (PLA) to the use of PLA () to produce Fashion items. The result of the second experiment consisted of a sample that is adaptable to the body derived from the ligament but still uncomfortable, suitable for use in suitcases but not in direct contact with the body and as a single piece. The third experiment was an intermediary between traditional fabrics and 3D printing, in which case the PLA printing was done directly on a mesh like a tulle that allows the adherence of the printing layers and the result is more similar to a stamping or finishing with relief. It cannot properly be considered the creation of a textile that is 100% printed and that can compose a piece of clothing by itself. Conclusions After an extensive investigation on additive manufacturing technologies and its application in the fashion industry, it was possible to verify that footwear, jewelry, and other accessories were the ones that had better adhesion. It was also observed that the clothing sector is still very much linked to the conceptual fashion and there are various obstacles to the implementation of the technique. It was also clear that there is a long way to go regarding the viability of solutions for clothing and the need to find means that allow more flexible, comfortable parts of good quality with ample movement. It is necessary to have a material innovation that allows the creation of pieces in which comfort, movement, and flexibility are prioritized because as designers cannot only meet the aesthetic appeal but are also strongly linked to the function and usability of the object. Gili S.A, 1978 [4] A. O. Laplume, B. Petersen, and J. M. Pearce, Global value chains from a 3D printing perspective, J. Int. Bus. Stud., vol. 47, no. 5, pp , [5] C. Stamford, Gartner diz que remessas mundiais de impressoras 3D devem crescer 108% em 2016, Gartner, [Online]. Available: [Accessed: 10-Sep-2018]. [6] R. Kuhn and R. Minuzzi, The 3d printing s panorama in fashion design, Moda Doc. Museu, Mem., no. 2009, [7] S. Luís, Impressão 3D Perspetivas de adoção na Indústria Portuguesa Dissertação apresentada como requisito parcial [8] D. Peleg, THE PROCESS HOW I 3D PRINTED A 5 PIECE FASHION COLLECTION AT HOME, [Online]. Available: [Accessed: 15-Sep-2018]. [9] V. Palsenbarg, 3D Printing and Iris van Herpen for the Biopiracy Fashion Show in Paris, materialise, [Online]. Available: [Accessed: 14- Sep-2018]. Acknowledgments We would like to thank Clara Fernandes for her contribution in this study, as well as the FibenTech Research Unit for the organization of this event. References [1] T. McCue, Wohlers Report 2018: Indústria de impressoras 3D ultrapassa US $ 7 bilhões, Forbes, [Online]. Available: s-report d-printer-industry-rises-21-percent-toover-7-billion/# d1a. [Accessed: 13-Sep-2018]. [2] G. Lipovetsky, O império do efémero, São Paulo Cia. das Let., pp. B2-29, [3] R. Barthes, "Sistema de la moda", Editorial Gustavo 5

16 Approach to effluent treatment in the automobile industry in Portugal R. Silva 1,2, J. Fonseca 2, L. Ciríaco 1, M.J. Pacheco 1, A. Lopes 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 BAU Special Solutions, Torres Novas/Covilhã, Portugal Abstract This work is part of a study with the objective to find an alternative to the existing reality in a WWTP of automobile industry in Portugal, which promotes the reduction/optimization of water consumption in the various production sectors and the reuse of the treated wastewater, whenever it meets the process quality requirements. In addition, it will be studied the reuse of the water from the demineralization system in processes that do not need pure water (Flow-jet; Axles Painting Cabin). Various effluents will be considered, from different production sectors, such as the automobile components paint zone, the oily waters from the exit of the hydrocarbon separator, the effluent resulting from the washing and degreasing of the axes (clear water), and the exit from the WWTP. According to the company environmental license, several physical-chemical parameters and heavy metals need to be monitored. In general, the paint zone effluents and the hydrocarbon separator output are most of the time above the emission limit value, showing that these sectors require a more urgent and effective treatment. To propose an alternative/complementing treatment for the effluents generated by the company is necessary to start by the fully characterization of the different effluents, as well as the existing treatment system, and this part of the study is presented in this paper. Introduction The automotive industry in Portugal is an important sector of the Portuguese economy that continues to generate employment today [1]. The international success of the components manufactured in national territory reveals that there is a foreign investment in the sector, an increasing installed technical skill and an increasing cooperation between companies, universities and engineering centres, as well as certification in all productive areas [1,2]. The automotive components sector is the most significant, incorporating about 200 companies. The component production sector exported 84% of its production, and between 2007 and 2015, exports increased by 20%. The main export markets in this sector are the United Kingdom, France, Germany and Spain, which highlights the importance of the European market for the sector. It is notorious that the companies in this sector supply components for most of the car models produced in Europe [3]. The automotive industrial activity produces wastes from the most trivial to those considered dangerous. To fulfil environmental requirements, it is necessary to monitor the efficiency of the industrial activity, considering the level of activity and the reduction in the volume and hazardousness of the waste [4]. Thus, one of the aspects that definitively needs proper care in automotive industry to minimize costs and obtain an improved environmental quality is the system of recovery and reuse of oily waters [4, 5]. Throughout the production process, the 3R's policy must also be always considered, and several techniques of waste reduction and/or reuse should be applied. When this is not possible at all, residues should be sent to recycling processes by licensed entities [6, 7]. This project consists on the implementation of several measures that will allow the reduction of environmental impacts, that is, find a solution to recover the oil waters, slightly contaminated with hydrocarbons and some heavy metals, through cost-effective solutions for the proper operation of the company and beneficial to the environment [8-10]. In this paper, the characterization of the different effluents, as well as the existing treatment system will be discussed. Experimental The industrial wastewater is treated prior to its discharge into the municipal collector. In the facility where this study was performed there are two industrial wastewater treatment plants: WWTP1, sized for the treatment of the effluents from degreasing, phosphating, primary by cataphoresis dip, installation of demineralized water, cleaning of heat exchangers and flow jet; WWTP2, for washing of shafts and cooling of the welding process. WWTP1 is subdivided into three parts: effluent collection, effluents depot treatment and preparation and dosing of chemical products (Fig.1). Outside the installation there are retention basins associated to the reservoirs of new oils, masses, gas oil, with waterproofed flooring and hydrocarbon separator with discharge in the WWTP. The demineralization unit produces water to be used in the cataphoresis process, baths and boilers. This unit consists of activated carbon filters and ion exchange columns. The treatment capacity is 11 m 3 /day. The effluent from the resins regeneration is sent to the WWTP 1. Domestic wastewater has two sources, canteen and other support facilities, and is discharged downstream of WWTP 1. The water from the canteen is submitted to an oils and fats removal process. Separate networks exist for the collection and drainage of domestic and industrial wastewaters and rainwater. Effluent Collection Deposit The effluent deposits are utilized to store the effluents and as an initiation to the batch treatment, and to make the separation by type of effluent. The effluents to be treated 6

17 come from the storage deposits, which allow to store up to 3 complete baths of 210 m 3, being admitted to the WWTP1 in a discontinuous way. Storage tanks allow you to reduce the volume of the treatment plant. oily water) contain emulsion oil that is separated, by ultrafiltration, from washing baths after degreasing, washing of axes, phosphating of the oil separating system and welding cooling. Fig. 1. Schematic view of an automobile industry WWTP. Effluents Treatment The treatment is carried out in 5 phases; neutralization, flocculation, sedimentation, sludge deposition and filtration in press filters. The precipitation of the various metals is done by varying the ph of the effluent. The effluent present in the neutralization, when slightly alkaline precipitate with iron chloride, producing flocs. In the second step, acidic medium leads to precipitation of other meal ions. In the flocculation phase, the precipitates from the previous phase agglomerated by addition of a polyelectrolyte. After flocculation, the resulting suspension (water+flocs) passes to sedimentation deposits. In these deposits, the liquid passes through baffles that favor the precipitation of the flocs, and the separation of a clear solution. The obtained water, passes through a final ph control and is capable of being released into the effluent collection tank, where it mixed with domestic effluent for later discharge into the collector. At this stage, another sedimentation is performed. The supernatant is collected and the sludge is sent to press filters, where a dry sludge, with a solids content of more than 35%, is obtained. This sludge is kept in bags for later treatment as hazardous waste. The chemicals utilized in WWTP1 are hydrochloric acid, sodium hydroxide, iron chloride and polyelectrolyte. The effluent samples from the various production sectors utilized in this study were collected in a Portuguese industrial company and kept refrigerated until use. Results The results for the characterization of the samples collected in different sectors of the plant are presented in Tables 1 and 2. Parameters such as ph, total phosphate and total hydrocarbons and heavy metals (Table and Figs. 2 and 3) present higher values than Emission Limit Values (ELV) of the environmental license. These effluents (paint and Table 1. Physicochemical characteristics of the industrial effluent from the various production sectors and emission limit values (ELV).. Parameter ELV Type of effluent Paint Oily water Clear Water ph [6;9] 9,9 10,6 7,1 BOD5 / mg L <20 COD / mg L <25 TSS / mg L Total hydrocarbons / mg L ,86 Oil and fat / mg L <10 Total phosphorus / mg L Total tin / mg L -1 2,0 3,70 2,50 0,46 Total zinc / mg L -1 2,0 5,90 12,00 2,00 Total iron / mg L -1 [0,1;5] 5,00 4,70 3,10 Tin (mg/l) Fig. 2 Concentration of tin (mg/l) in the effluents of the different production sectors. Zinc [mg/l) Paint Oily water Clear Water Paint Oily water Clear Water Fig. 3 Concentration of zinc (mg/l) in the effluents of the different production sectors. WWTP2 - Separation of Flow JET The final line of cab painting - Top Coat has an automatic system for separating and removing the largest amount of water paints to send later to the WWTP1 Effluent Final Treatment Station, which is designated FLOW JET 7

18 (WWTP2). This system promotes the removal of the scraped ink waste by scraping operation in an equipment sized for this purpose, in which a flocculant is utilized. The paint water comes from the gas scrubber systems of the various paint booths (chassis, axles, cabins and chassis repainting) and is subsequently thrown into the tank with paint. Deposits are discharged on a monthly basis. Table 2 shows the characterization of the treated effluent that is clear, being the physical parameters and heavy metals monitored within the limits established by the environmental license. Table 2. Physicochemical characteristics of the industrial effluent at the exit of WWTP 2 Parameter ELV Year ph [6;9] 6,9 8,3 8,5 CBO5 mg L < CQO mg L TSS mg L Total hydrocarbons 15 mg L -1 <0,5 0,54 <0,50 Oil and fat mg L ,0 28 Total phosphorus mg 30 L -1 3,2 2,0 2,5 Total tin mg L -1 2,0 0,1 0,59 0,30 Total Zinc mg L -1 2,0 0,1 0,11 <0,1 Conclusions In order to improve the efficiency of the treatment system of this automobile industry in Portugal, as a way to reduce/optimize water consumption and bet on the reuse of a quality water, without contamination by hydrocarbons and heavy metals, the effluents of the treatment system already implanted in the company were characterized. This characterization will help to redesign the system, by intervening in the production chain, in areas where environmental objectives are not met, and by improving effluents treatment to enable the reuse of the treated wastewater, which is a goal defined by the company to be achieved up to Acknowledgements The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial support received from Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia. FCT, for the funding of the FibEnTech-UBI Research Unit, project UID/Multi/00195/2013; FC/Santander Totta Universidades UBI /2016 for the grant awarded to R. Silva. BID/ICI-UID; BAU Special Solutions that assures the development of this work. References [1] Information on [2] AEP- Associação Empresarial de Casos de Excelência de Práticas Ambientais e de Eficiência e Racionalização Energéticas nas Empresas Portuguesas, [3] Information on [4] Mendes, Benilde, Santos Oliveira, J.F Qualidade da água para consumo humano. Editora Lidel, [5] Engenho Novo, Tratamento de águas oleosas nas indústrias. pp [6] Vieira Ana Luísa, Lopes Ana, Serra Cátia, Silveira Daniel, Fonseca Joel, Bragança Raulise, Tratamento de águas. Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa, [7] Passos da Motta, A. R.; Borges, C. P.; Kiperstok, A., Esquerre, K. P., Araujo, P. M., Branco, L. P. N. Produced water treatment for oil removal by membrane separation process: review. V.18., 2013, N.1. [8] Melo, Paula J. M. C., Gestão de resíduos para uma construção sustentável. Departamento de Ambiente e Ordenamento. Universidade de Aveiro, [9] Carvalho, Clarisse, Estudo para a conceção de sistema de tratamento de resíduos de redes de drenagem de águas residuais urbanas. Relatório de Projeto, Mestrado em Tecnologias Ambientais. Instituto Politécnico de Viseu, [10] Silva, Danielly F., Lima, Gustavo F. C., Empresas e meio ambiente: contribuições da legislação ambiental. Revista Internacional Interdisciplinar: INTERthesis,

19 Blind People and clothing purchase: A Theoretical Approach L. Pina 1, J. Lucas 1, P. Duarte 2, P. Martins 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 NECE-UBI and Department of Management and Economics, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The main purpose of this paper is to make an initial approach considering the existing literature review of the theme of investigation: Do I fit in? Study of blind and (VI) visually impaired individuals and their emotional relations with fashion brands. Once that it does not exist that much information about blind individuals and their clothing purchases it was used a mixed methodology. here is a lack of literature considering the relationship between blind individuals and fashion brands, so, this first theoretical approach can be a helpful contribution for the academic society and to elucidate other authors interested on this theme for further investigations. Introduction According to the 2011estimated numbers presented by ACAPO (Associação do cegos e amblíopes de Portugal), there were about 900 thousand citizens with vision difficulties. About 28 thousand totally blind and when considering individuals that have low vision or are severely sight impaired it can be concluded that there is no reliable information on the total number of visually impaired citizens in Portugal. According to a WHO report published in the last year, it is estimated that 253 million people live with vision impairment: 36 million are blind and 217 million have moderate to severe vision impairment from which 81% are blind or have moderate or severe vision impairment and are aged 50 years old and above[1]. An unsighted person or a person that is visually impaired is characterized by partial or total loss of visual ability in both eyes that cannot be corrected with optical lens [2]. It is also considered to be a major public health concern [3] and a disability that affects the economy and educational opportunities and as a result reduces the quality of life of the individuals[4]. In Portugal, 45% of blind people are unemployed[5]and what is more is that almost half of the blind community is dependent of social benefits[6]. Bearing in mind that this problem, and, once that does not exist that much of information about visually impaired individuals it is necessary to understand this disability and how they live with it [7] considering fashion brands and the clothing sector. Thus, before beginning the process of literature review, the authors of this paper posed a main question: If blind individuals cannot have visual stimulus and once the vision sense is one important factor for the purchase of clothing, what motivates them to buy it and how are they able to connect their own personality and identity with a fashion brand? There are already a few studies considering this kind of approach (consult e.g. 6; 7;8;9;10;11;12) but all of them pursuit themes related with experiences regarding the piece of clothing and its characteristics, (e.g. fabric sensation or embroideries) or even the service offered by a store employee. Off course that this kind of experiences can be the result of the affection of a consumer for a brand once that a satisfying costumer will probably return to that store. But what about the visual signs created by the brand that the individual does not see? Literature References Positive or negative experiences can happen when consumers search for fashion or when they shop fashion products. The quality of a satisfying purchase experience can be determined through other senses and not just visual sense [6;7]. Nowadays the shopping environment is a complex environment and fashion brands perhaps not being interested in this consumer with a sort of specific needs, do not create spaces bearing them in mind, although these costumers have a great potential[17]. Fashion brands are a system of symbols that represent the values underlying customers experiences with products or services [15] and a large number of people can experience difficulties on their role as consumers [9] in order to find their own personality and identity towards society. These experiences provide the opportunity for individuals to engage in their selves construction [12]. Now, and visualizing the object of study, most of the attitudes towards the visually impaired community are negative. The identity of a person who has an impairment somehow gets lost and only the impairment itself remains seen [18]. In addition to being a necessity, clothing is this universal aspect of life and a major form of communication [10] and are ubiquitous to every lifestyle in every culture [14]. When shopping clothes s, strong opinions were expressed about the wish to assert individual style [11] and when visually impaired consumers perceive inequality in the experience in a fashion store, they may see such experience as a chance to inform others about their capabilities [8]. Either sighted or unsighted consumers can face problems with the type of garment they want to purchase in matters of sizes, quality, fit or comfort aspects when it comes to browsing/ searching for a new piece of garment. Behaviour is initiated through needs. Some psychologists claim that words such as "motives," "needs," "urges," "wishes," and "drives" should not be used as synonyms; others are content to use them interchangeably [19].A 9

20 sensory experience can be defined as the consumer perception of products or services or even other elements in a service process such as an image that challenges the human mind and senses [20]. Once consumers desire to experience the pleasure of shopping and to personalize their experiences according to their unique desires [12] all communication, consumption experiences, and customer contacts inevitably create an experience in the customer s mind [20]. Those with vision impairments are in disadvantage because they cannot see what constitutes the norms of the fashion on others individuals and being stylishly [14]. So, unfortunately, they have no control over the process or even are perceived as an equal participant in the consumption experience [12]. Everyone enjoys wearing new clothes, however for blind individuals select new clothes is one of the most difficult problems of shopping [21]. They will request assistance when they recognize that they need it [9] once that most of the times they need someone who they can rely on,like a friend, a store employee or a family member [7; 9]. When some visually impaired people have to ask the sale assistant for help, they are usually sceptical about the conversations that can happen, because of their ignorance about the disability and their lack of knowledge about customer tastes. Generally speaking, people are not prepared to purchase something without first having felt the quality of the material, noted the fit and, to a great extent, gained the opinion of a trusted friend or relative with a knowledge of the customer s tastes [11]. Visually impaired consumers are challenged everyday in their abilities in their shopping experiences and therefore they cannot perceive and process certain information in the way that is traditionally expected[22]. In addition, a clothing store should support customers in their daily searching for new products by providing goods, services and information as long as this generates value to customers [20]. The brand satisfaction can be defined as the outcome of the subjective evaluation that the brand meets or exceeds the expectations [23]. The ways that retail, product, and advertising information is presented can affect the ways that consumers enjoy it, process it, and make their decisions. Humour, product comparison, colour, and contrast, for example, are just a few of the perceptual tools that are thought to enhance the consumer s search for, purchase, and consumption of products [17, p. 464]. As Stacey Baker [12] shows on her research, shoppers with visual impairments want to be able to participate in the shopping experience as equals, to be understood, and to feel like they belong. In fact, this is a important aspect to consider, once the social stigma is present in their everyday life. The consumer tastes are driven by characteristics inside a person, not by characteristics that are visible to the store employee. People deprived of visual stimuli rely in other sensations such as feeling the surface properties of items, recognising smells or sounds of certain things to provide a clue of what to expect [24]. When a visually impaired person purchases clothing and fashion products itusesher primordial sense, the touch The main aspects that (s)he considers for the purchase of a piece of clothing are in fact texture, shape,and quality. The customer s feelings and thoughts about a fashion product contribute to an image in the customer s mind that is synonymous with the brand [20]. Conclusions To conclude this initial study about blind or visually impaired individuals and clothing purchase it is necessary to make a reflection about this problem. It is noted that blind and visually impaired people are confronted in their lives with several problems when shopping. But, the truth is that most of them are in fact active and updated. They pursue their dreams and it is a possibility that most of them have perspectives for their life. They work and they like to spend money. Being blind or visually impaired is just a little part of them as a person. It is important that the society accepts them, understands their abilities and welcomes them to be a part of the society like anyone else [25]. It is time for fashion designers and clothing creators to understand these consumers to face their problems and to create some kind of relationship with them so that their connexion with fashion brands can be a more positive experience. As for the limitations and further studies, it is understood the necessity to go deep further, considering the brands and the kind of relationships that a consumer can have with them explored by Susan Fournier[26], the brand and identity explored by several authors, such as David Aaker [27]and understand the brand image dimension and personality explored by Jennifer Aaker [28]. References [1] WHO (World Health Organization), Eye Care: The Facts (2017) [2] G. Borges and N. Martins, La discapacidad visual y la práctica de las actividades físicas, Rev. Digit., (2012). [3] C. Abelardo and L. A. G. de Oliveira, The main causes of blindness and low vision in school for blind, Rev. Bras. Oftalmol., 75 (2016) [4] E. Pissaloux and R. Velázquez, Mobility of visually impaired people: Fundamentals and ICT assistive technologies (2017). [5] Information on das-pessoas-invisuais-em-portugal-estao-desempregadas/ [6] M. Soares, Quase metade dos deficientesvisuaisdepende de prestações sociais, Publico: Emprego section, (2012). [7] R. J. Peres, G. Do Espírito-Santo, F. R. Do Espírito, N. T. Ferreira, and M. R. De Assis, Insatisfação com a imagem corporal entre pessoas com deficiência visual, Rev. Bras. Ciencias do Esporte, 37 (2015) [8] C. Falchetti, M. C. Ponchio, and N. L. P. Botelho, Understanding the vulnerability of blind consumers: adaptation in the marketplace, personal traits and coping strategies, J. Mark. Manag., 32 (2016) [9] S. M. Baker, D. L. Stephens, and R. P. Hill, 10

21 Marketplace experiences of consumers with visual impairments: Beyond the Americans with Disabilities Act, J. Public Policy Mark., 20 (2001) [10] M. a Burton, Fashion for the Blind: A Study of Perspectives, Proc. 13th Int. ACM SIGACCESS Conf. Comput. Access., 73 (2011) [11] R. Bradley, T. Hopkins, and J. M. Bailey, A study of the influence of visual impairment on the purchase of clothing, Br. J. Vis. Impair., 18 (2000) [12] S. M. Baker, Consumer normalcy: Understanding the value of shopping through narratives of consumers with visual impairments, J. Retail., 82 (2006) [13] H. Yu, S. Tullio-Pow, and A. Akhtar, Retail design and the visually impaired: A needs assessment, J. Retail. Consum. Serv., 24 (2015) [14] M. a Burton, J. Beser, C. Neylan, and A. Hurst, Making Fashion Accessible for People with Vision Impairments, (2012). [15] H. Kim, The dimensionality of fashion brand experience: Aligning consumer -based brand equity approach, J. Fash. Mark. Manag. An Int. J., 16 (2012) [16] I. Yoon, A new approach to an inclusive urban park for all people : specially designed for visually impaired people, Writtle University College, (2017). [17] C. Kaufman-Scarborough, Seeing through the eyes of the color-deficient shopper: Consumer issues for public policy, J. Consum. Policy, 23 (2000) [18] J. Susman, Disability, stigma and deviance, Soc. Sci. Med., 38 (1994) [19] J. A. Bayton, Motivation, cognition, learning: Basic factors in consumer behavior, J. Mark., 22 (1958) [20] B. Hultén, Sensory marketing: The multi-sensory brand-experience concept, Eur. Bus. Rev., 23 (2011) [21] L. N. Walmiki and J. V Vastrad, Clothing purchases among visually impaired adolescents, J. Farm Sci., 29 (2016) [22] C. Kaufman-Scarborough, Accessible advertising for visually-disabled persons: The case of color-deficient consumers, J. Consum. Mark., 18 (2001) [23] J. M. M. Bloemer and H. D. P. Kasper, The Complex Relationship Between Consumer Satisfaction and Brand Loyalty, J. Econ. Psychol., 16 (1995) [24] A. Ramatla and A. Mastamet-Mason, The decisionmaking processes of visually impaired consumers in an apparel retail environment, in DEFSA Conference Proceedings (2013) [25] P. Srijuntrapun, Sustainable livelihoods framework of visually impaired people, Asia Pacific J. Soc. Work Dev., 28 (2018) [26] S. Fournier, Consumers and their Brands: Developing Relashionship Theory in Consumer Research, J. Consum. Res., 24 (1998) [27] D. A. Aaker, Managing Brand Equity: Capitalizing on the Value of a Brand Name. The Free Press, [28] J. L. Aaker, Dimensions of Brand Image, Eur. J. Bus. Manag., 34 (1997)

22 Electrochemical oxidation of effluents from a wool fabric dyeing process and their reuse C. G. Pinto, E. Pinheiro, A. Marques, L. Ciríaco, A. Lopes, M. J. Pacheco FibEnTech and Department of Chemistry, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The aim of this work was to evaluate the use of anodic oxidation, with Boron-doped diamond (BDD) anodes, for the treatment of an effluent from a wool dyeing process. In addition, it is also intended to study the feasibility of reuse of the treated effluent in a new dyeing process In order to achieve the objectives, a wool fabric was dyed using the acid dye Blue Tellon RR, and Avolan and sodium sulfate as dyeing auxiliaries. The wastewater obtained after this dyeing process was electrochemically treated and then reused in a new dyeing process. Comparison between the color of the fabric dyed with the original bath and the color of the cloth dyed with the bath from the treated effluent allows evaluating the possibility of reuse of treated wastewater. Before this study, electrochemical degradation tests of simulated wastewaters containing dye and the Avolan were also carried out. The results show that complete discoloration of the simulated and the real effluents was attained. In addition, the degradation of the dyeing auxiliary Avolan was also observed. The discoloration is accompanied by a partial mineralization of the organic matter. The color of the fabric dyed using the reused effluent depends on the current density applied during the electrochemical treatment and the best results were obtained when the effluent was treated at the lowest applied current density. Introduction Water is one of the most important natural resources in the world. The textile industry is still one of the industries with very high water consumption, being necessary an average of 100 L per kg of processed fabric, just for the dyeing process [1]. Thus, the dyeing process is responsible for the excessive consumption of water, in which the quality of the water is changed due to the addition of chemical substances, mainly the dyes. A part of the dyes do not bind to the fibers of the fabrics and therefore remain dissolved in the water. The dyes used in the textile industry have an environmental impact because they are persistent pollutants. The removal of color in dyeing wastewaters has been one of the major environmental problems that the textile sector has faced. Several processes have been studied in order to achieve treatments that can remove dyes from textile wastewaters and allow their reuse. Among them, electrochemical processes have shown to be a promising alternative either to reduce the pollutant load from the effluent, or even to allow its reuse in successive dyeing processes. Thus, the objective of this work was to evaluate the use of anodic oxidation, with Boron-doped diamond (BDD) anodes, for the treatment of an effluent from a wool dyeing process. In addition, it is also intended to study the feasibility of reuse the treated effluent in a new dyeing process. Materials and Methods A wool fabric was dyed using the acid dye Blue Tellon RR (Dystar), and Avolan and sodium sulfate as dyeing auxiliaries. The wastewater obtained after this dyeing process was electrochemically treated and then used in a new dyeing. Before this study, electrochemical degradation tests of simulated wastewaters containing dye and Avolan were carried out. Dyeing process The wool fabrics dyeing process was conducted using as dyeing bath an aqueous solution containing 1% dye / fiber (w/w), 2 g L -1 of sodium sulfate (Carlo Erba) and 1% of Avolan, at a ph of 3.5. Dyeing experiments were conducted in mini-reactors, using 5 g of cotton fabric per 250 ml of bath (ratio 1:50). The mini reactors were placed in the dyeing apparatus, a Mathis Labomat, which was programmed to a step heating of 2ºC per minute, from room temperature up to 98 C, and then kept at this final temperature for 30 min. After this period, mini reactors were maintained in the apparatus for cooling to room temperature. After the dyeing process, the fabric samples were washed. Electrochemical treatment of the dyeing wastewater Electrochemical treatments of simulated and real wastewaters were conducted in a batch, with stirring, undivided cell (Figure 1), using as anode a BDD electrode (10 cm 2 ) and as cathode an iron plate (10 cm 2 ), with an inter-electrode gap of 1 cm. The simulated wastewaters used had the following compositions: a) 100 ppm of Blue Telon RR acid dye and 2g/L of sodium sulfate; b) 0.1 g/l of Avolan and 2 g/l of sodium sulfate; c) 100 ppm of Blue Telon RR acid dye, 2 g/l of sodium sulfate; 0.1 g/l of Avolan and 2 g/l of sodium sulfate; d) 100 ppm of Blue Telon RR acid dye, 2 g/l of sodium sulfate; 0.1 g/l of Avolan and 2 g/l of sodium sulfate, ph 3,5; For both cases, simulated and real wastewaters, the treated volume was 250 ml. For simulated wastewaters, assays were performed at an applied current density of 60 ma cm -2, for 6 h. In the case of real wastewaters, assays 12

23 were performed at applied current densities of 20, 40 and 60 ma cm -2, for 6 h. The electrochemical experiments were monitored by spectrophotometric analysis in the UV-visible region, and determinations of chemical oxygen demand (COD), total dissolved organic carbon (TOC), ph and conductivity were also performed. discoloration is attained after 4 h at the applied current density (60mA/cm 2 ). Fig. 2. Absorbance values (637 nm) of the samples collected during the electrochemical treatment of the simulated effluent: Fig. 1. Experimental set-up utilized in the electrochemical treatment of the dyeing wastewaters Reuse of the treated effluents of the dyeing baths After the electrochemical treatment, the treated effluent was used to prepare new dyebaths. Before proceeding with the new dyeing process, concentration of sulfate ions was determined, by ion chromatography (Shimadzu 20A Prominence HPLC). The results showed that it would not be necessary to add sodium sulfate to reuse the treated sample. Thus, only dye and Avolan were added to the dyebath. The dyeing procedure was similar to that described above. The differences in the color of the fabric samples dyed with the original bath and with the reused bath were obtained through colorimetric method (Datacolor International, SF300 UV model). Results and Discussion Figure 1 presents the UV-Visible spectra of the Blue Telon RR acid dye solution, which presents an absorption band, with a maximum at 637 nm. Fig. 1. UV-Vis spectra of Blue Telon RR acid dye solution. Inset: dye structure In figure 2, it is presented the absorbance values, at 637 nm, of the samples collected during the electrochemical treatment of the simulated effluent. It was concluded that the discoloration process is very slow, which is due to the small amounts of sodium sulfate used, and the complete Fig. 3. Evolution TOC values during the electrodegradation assay. of the simulated effluent: Figure 3 shows TOC evolution for the electrodegraded samples. A regular decay of this parameter is observed throughout all the tests performed, which shows that a relative high pollutants mineralization occurs. This results also shows that the dyeing auxiliary, Avolan, is degraded during the assay. Thus, if the treated wastewater is to be reused in a new dyeing bath, it is necessary to add the Avolan. For the electrodegradation of the real dyebaths wastewater, after 6 h of the assay, a total color removal was observed for all studied current densities (Table 1). Regarding TOC and COD removals, they increased with the applied current density. At 60 ma/cm 2 a good mineralization is observed because COD and TOC removals are similar. The dyeing quality of the wool fabrics, obtained using the dyebath prepared with the treated effluent, was evaluated in terms of the color reproduction. Thus, the dyed cotton fabrics using a dyebath prepared with tap fresh water was regarded as the control sample. Table 1 shows the values of ΔE ab, which is the parameter that allows the evaluation of the difference in color between the fabric samples dyed with the treated effluent and the control fabric, dyed with the original bath. The reproducibility of the dyeing process can be assessed by the ΔE ab value, since an ΔE ab closer to zero means good reproducibility, being accepted 13

24 values up to 1 [2]. The values obtained in this study were higher than this, being the lowest value 3.4, obtained with the fabric dyed with the dyeing bath prepared with the wastewater treated at the 20 ma/cm 2. Table 1 COD, TOC and color removals, after 6 h, for the assays performed with the real wastewater, at different applied current densities. Removal / % Applied current density / ma cm COD TOC color Conclusions Electrochemical treatments, namely anodic oxidation, can be an option to treat textile dyeing baths effluents, by reducing the organic load and eliminate the color from the effluents. In fact, complete discoloration of both the simulated and the real effluents was attained. In addition, degradation of Avolan, the dyeing auxiliary, was also observed. The discoloration is accompanied by a mineralization of the organic matter. For the real wastewater the highest COD and TOC removals, 63% and 68%, respectively, were attained for the assay performed at 60 ma/cm 2, at the end of 6 h. The color of the fabric dyed using the effluent reused depends on the current density applied during the electrochemical treatment and the best results were obtained when the effluent was treated at the lowest applied current density. Acknowledgements The authors acknowledge the financial support from Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, FCT, for the project UID/Multi/00195/2013 and for the INAGBE (Angola) PhD grant (C. G. Pinto). References [1] S. Vajnhandl, J. V. Valh, The status of water reuse in European textile sector, J. Environ. Management 141 (2014) [2] M. M. Hassan, C. J. Hawkyard, Reuse of spent dyebath following decolorisation with ozone, Color. Technol. 118 (2002)

25 NT-TiO2/BaTiO3 Environmental Application: Acid Orange 7 Photoelectrocatalysis A.S. Rodrigues, L. Ciríaco, M.J. Pacheco, A. Lopes FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The perovskite BaTiO 3 was prepared by hydrothermal reaction, using as substrate a TiO 2 nanotubes foil (NT- TiO 2) obtained by anodization of Ti foil. The obtained electrode, NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3, was utilized in photoelectrocatalytic (PhEC) degradation tests, using as model pollutant the dye Acid Orange 7 (AO7). Assays were run with Na 2SO 4 as electrolyte and 25 ppm AO7 initial concentration, during 6 h, using UV or visible light and/or an applied current density of 1 ma/cm 2. AO7 degradation was followed by UV-Visible absorbance measurements. The best AO7 degradation rate (53%) was obtained in the PhEC assays with UV light. Introduction Perovskite oxides with formula ABO 3 or A 2BO 4 are a very important class of functional materials that exhibit a wide range of stoichiometry and crystal structures [1]. Their structures possess an extensive range of applications, namely as photoelectrocatalytic materials for the oxidation of organic compounds [2]. Barium titanate, BaTiO 3, is the most widely investigated perovskite material due to its piezoelectric and ferroelectric properties [3]. It has been recognized as an important material utilized in capacitors, electrically driven mechanical resonators and electrically controlled optical switches [4]. It possesses high dielectric constant and ferroelectric response, both regarded as quite useful in the electronic industry as multilayer ceramic capacitors, thermistors, piezoelectric transducers, photonic crystals, electro-optical material, and microwave absorbers [5]. The hydrothermal method is a new preparation technique for perovskite-type nanostructures [4], where chemical reactions are conducted in aqueous solution under high pressure and controlled temperature [6]. Hydrothermal growth of different nanostructures mainly depends on the growth temperature, precursors used, addition of surfactants or other chemicals for modifying the nanostructure growth, solution ph value, crystal properties of the material, as well as substrate type and pre-treatment [6]. This method was already utilized for the preparation of BaTiO 3 and, depending on hydrothermal temperatures and reaction times, the formation of secondary barium titanate phases, such as BaTi 2O 5 and Ba 2TiO 4, and morphological changes of the hydrothermal products were observed [3]. The objective of this study was to prepare BaTiO 3, by hydrothermal method, immobilized over a TiO 2 nanotube foil, and use the assembled material, NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3, as photoelectrocatalytic material for the degradation of a model dye - Acid Orange 7 (AO7). NT-TiO 2 can be prepared by Ti anodization, a process of forming a thick oxide layer on the surface of a metal by applying an electrical potential [7]. One of the main reasons for the wide-spread interest in anodization is its ability to yield titania nanotube arrays of tuneable dimensions, useful for a number of applications [7]. Experimental Procedures To prepare NT-TiO 2, a Ti plate was anodized, at 30 V for 3 h, in an ethylene glycol solution, containing 0.3% (w/w) NH 4F and 2% (w/w) deionized water. The BaTiO 3 perovskite was grown on the NT-TiO 2 substrate via the hydrothermal method. The hydrothermal synthesis was performed in an autoclave with 35 ml of 0.05 M barium hydroxide aqueous solution, with the substrate fixed in the centre of a Teflon vessel. The vessel was placed in an oven, at 200 ºC, for 2 h. After removing the material from the vessel, it was rinsed in deionized water and air dried. Finally, it was annealed at 500 ºC for 2 h and naturally cooled at room temperature. To examine the crystal structure, X-ray diffraction analysis was performed using Rigaku difractometer, model DMAX III/C with automatic data acquisition (APD Philips v3.5b), equipped with a monochromatized Cu kα radiation (λ = nm), operating at 40 ma and 30 kv. Photocatalytic degradations tests of 25 ppm aqueous AO7 (Sigma Aldrich, Fig.1) solutions (170 ml) were run, utilizing an immersed UV lamp, emitting at 254 nm, with 7 W (Philips TUV, PL-S) or an exterior Visible lamp, with 300 W (OSRAM: Ultra-Vitalux, 230 V, E27/ES), and a 10 cm 2 NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3 immersed anode. Electrocatalytic assays were run using as electrolyte Na 2SO 4, 5 g/l, at current density of 1 ma cm -2 for 6 h. Before catalysis, the anode stayed immersed in the solution for 1 h, to study the possible AO7 adsorption. AO7 degradation tests were monitored by UV-Vis absorption spectrophotometry (Shimatzu UV-1800 spectrophotometer). Fig. 1. Chemical structure of the dye Acid Orange 7 Results and Discussion Figure 2 shows the x-ray diffraction pattern of the NT- TiO 2/BaTiO 3 nanotube, and confirms BaTiO 3 cubic structure, though having some extra peaks. Figure 3 displays the UV-Vis absorption spectra for the samples collected during the photoelectrocatalysis (PhEC) with NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3 and Fig. 4 presents the relative 15

26 absorbance removal, 484 nm, for the samples collected during the tests performed at different catalytic conditions: photolysis (Ph), photocatalysis (PhC) and potoelectrocatalysis (PhEC), with UV or visible (Vis) light, and electrocatalysis (EC). The 6-h relative absorbance removals at 484 nm for all the assays performed are presented in Table 1. According to the results presented in Fig. 4 and Table 1, the best result was obtained for PhEC with UV light. In fact, catalysis with UV light presented much better removal results than with visible light, showing that the perovskite utilized presents a band-gap energy in the UV region. Fig. 2. X-Ray diffraction pattern of the NT-TiO2/BaTiO3 plate Fig. 3. UV-Vis absorbance spectra of the samples collected during AO7 PhEC with UV light. Table 1. Relative absorbance removal at 484 nm for the AO7 solutions treated with different catalytic techniques. Type of assay Relative Abs removal (484 nm)/ % UV light Visible light Photolysis 33 2 Photocatalysis 34 0 Photoelectrocatalysis Electrocatalysis 16 In the UV-Vis absorption spectrum two bands can be observed in the UV region, at 220 and 310 nm, assigned to the aromatic rings of the molecule. A strong absorption band, at 484 nm (visible region) is the result of the conjugated double bonds system, which includes the azo bond of the molecule. The regular decay of the absorbance at all wavelength in the PhEC (Fig. 3) points to a degradation mechanism with a high degree of mineralization. Fig. 4. Relative absorbance removal at 484 nm for the AO7 degradation assays performed at different experimental conditions: [AO7]0 = 25 ppm; [Na2SO4] = 5000 ppm Conclusions BaTiO 3 nanotubes were successfully formed, over a NT- TiO 2 substrate, by hydrothermal method, followed by annealing. NT-TiO 2/BaTiO 3 was used in different catalytic processes for the degradation of AO7 solutions photocatalysis, electrocatalysis and photoelectrocatalysis - and the best colour removal attained was 53% in photoelectro-catalysis with UV light, after 6 h assay. The degradation of AO7 was not well succeeded with visible light, probably because BaTiO 3 nanotubes band-gap is only activated by UV light. Acknowledgements Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, FCT, for the funding of the Research Unit FibEnTech-UBI and for the grant awarded to A.S. Rodrigues, SFRH/BD/109901/2015. References [1] J. Zhu, H. Li, L. Zhong, P. Xiao, X. Xu, X. Yang, Z. Zhao, J. Li, ACS Catal. 4 (2014), [2] M. J. Pacheco, M. L. F. Ciríaco, A. Lopes, L.C. Gonçalves, M.R.Nunes, M. I. Pereira, Portugaliae Electrochim. Acta 24 (2006), [3] M. Özen, M. Mertens, F. Snijkers, P. Cool, Ceram. Int. 42 (2016), [4] W. Liming, D. Xiangyun, L. Jianbao, L. Xinxing, Z. Guoqing, W. Chunpeng, S. Kuifan, J. Nanosci. Nanotechno. 14 (2014), [5] Y-F. Zhu, L. Zhang, T. Natsuki, Y-Q. Fu, Q-Q. Ni, ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 4 (2012), [6] A. Djurisic, Y. Xi, Y. Hsu, W. Chan Recent. Pat. Nanotechnol. 1 (2007), [7] B. Rao, A. Torabi, O. Varghese, MRS Commun. 6 (2016),

27 Fashion Library UBI-Platform P2P S.R. Fernandes 1, J.M. Lucas 1, M.J. Madeira 2, A. Cruchinho 3, I.D. Honório 4 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 NECE-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco, Castelo Branco, Portugal 4 State University of Londrina, Londrina, PR, Brazil Abstract This article has the objective to present the case of study and development of a business model applied to the creation of a Fashion Library platform P2P. The sustainable business model (SBM) presents an innovative approach to consider embedded sustainability into business purpose and processes, and serve as a key driver to competitive advantage. It is important in driving and implementing collaborative creative economy and social innovation for sustainability and can help embed sustainability into business purposes and processes. Sustainable business model considers a wide range of stakeholder interests, standing out environment and society/community. Sustainable Development The concept of sustainable development has been used since 1987 by the United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development with the publication of the report "Our Common Future" through the Brundtland Commission which defined it as "a development aimed at meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs "[1]. The term sustainable development was established at the International Meeting on the Environment, convened by the United Nations at Eco-92, held in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 1992, constituting a strategic step towards the survival of life on the planet [2]. Both conferences endorsed the fundamental concept of sustainable development, which combines economic and material progress without compromising the needs of future generations. COP21 [3], the Climate Conference held in Paris in 2015, prioritized the global commitment to avoid global warming, keeping the temperature at a maximum of 1.5 C above those observed before the industrial era. Thus, sustainable development is a global challenge, with local initiatives aimed at reducing the effects of environmental impacts resulting from new economic opportunities capable of promoting a transformation in the use of the finite resources of the planet. According to [4],"the starting point for an innovation towards sustainability is to try to decouple the success of a business from the relentless expansion of material consumption, seeking to minimize resource depletion, pollution and associated effects, such as climate change [4]. Sustainable development requires an urgent reformulation of current patterns of production and consumption to achieve social, economic and environmental equity. The project is based on the methodology of the circular economy with a focus on collaborative creative economy. Circular Economy The concept of circular economy was created by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, founded in 2010 [5]. In 2012, the Foundation published the report "Towards circular economy: economic and business rationality for an accelerated transition". In the same year, the European Commission published the "Manifesto for an efficient Europe in the use of resources", which addresses the need for their countries to move to a regenerative circular economy [5]. As early as 2015, it launched the "circular economy package". According to the Circular Europe Network, [6] "the concept of circular economy refers not only to recycling, but also to 3Rs (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) and goes beyond the waste problem; that is, circular economy implies closed-cycle management. This means that all natural resources, energy, materials must be reduced in production and that their use and reuse is optimized ". The circular economy aims to move to a new economic paradigm that integrates environmental concerns and opens the way to new and more sustainable business models, with or without financial intermediation. Collaborative Economy The collaborative economy has exponential growing the relevance of the phenomenon is linked with sustainable consumption that encourages resources efficiency, waste reduction, better development and surplus reuse of products due to over production and overconsumption [7]. The collaborative economy covers several areas: "collaborative production (easing the design and production of goods through bricolage, fablabs and marketspaces), collaborative consumption (networks for exchange, rental, loans, donation or inter-change of goods and services) and collaborative development [6]. In 2000, Rifkin published the "The Age of Access" book, in which he presented future transitions from economic activities based on access to goods and services through shared use or collaborative production [8]. The term collaborative consumption was consecrated by Botsman and Rogers in the book "What's mine is yours", published 17

28 in 2010 [9]. Collaborative consumption involves trading, lending, negotiating, leasing, donating and exchanging from person to person (P2P). Accordingly to the authors above mentioned they divided collaborative consumption into three systems: Product Ser-vices System (SSP), Redistribution Markets, and Collaborative Lifestyles. Another author, who is also driving the collaborative economy, is Gansky [10] with her work called "Mesh." This is a term that refers to the interconnectivity of people through the digital technology used to provide access to goods and services. For Stokes and colleagues [11], collaborative economy is a way of doing business; it is an ex-change of social value that allows access rather than possession. The collaborative economy is formed by decentralized P2P networks that make use of idle assets and create new markets. In 2016 the European Commission launched "The future of the EU collaborative economy - Using scenarios to explore future effects for employment." It recognizes the potential of collaborative economy to create new sources of income and benefits for users through new business models for the temporary use of goods and services, such as housing and sharing [12]. The collaborative economy has become more popular since the global financial crisis of 2008; the recession and unemployment drove consumers to use platforms for sharing goods and services. With increased use of smartphones with mobile internet access, this resulted in an explosion of software applications, (apps). The main users, drivers and influencers of the collaborative economy are the Millennials, born from 1982, as they dominate digital tools. The motivations refer to the economic advantages and interpersonal benefits of social interaction, trust relationship through the reputation generated by user assessment. The distinction of collaborative economy is that it involves the use of internet technologies to connect groups of people in order to make better use of goods, services, skills, create collaborative companies and projects. Collaborative Consumption, PSS Model The Service and Products System (PSS) [1] allows products of a company to be shared, and thus users pay for the use of the product without the need to own it. Businesses with the concept of shared wardrobe or fashion libraries are increasingly earning followers in several countries. In English is called Fashion Library, in Spain uses the name Ropateca, in Brazil is used Modateca or Roupateca. In Portugal, to date, there is no record of a business model with these characteristics. These new business models work through a subscription system, similar to Netflix and allow customers to pay a monthly service fee. There are companies that offer various plans so that one can access a fixed number of garments on loan at any time. These models are an attractive offer for users who want frequent changes of clothes. These organizations are emerging in a number of different places such as Amsterdam, the Netherlands, one of the most well-known Fashion Library: the Lena store [13], where members sign up for monthly. And they have at their disposal high quality clothes, vintage ones, famous and ecological brands. The slogan is "Collect moments, not things." The clothes should be returned clean. The store receives donations of clothes in good condition. In New York, United States, Gwynnie Bee offers a signature clothing service for the day-to-day in the 'plus size' female segment. It offers customers more than 4,000 styles and various subscription plans. Members can keep items for as long as they want, then just send them back to get other items of interest. The brand was founded in 2011 decided to invest in this niche market due to the fact that 75% of the US adult female population have size 44 - or above - and that 67% of the total population wears size 48 or above. The cleaning of clothes is done by the brand itself [14]. Rent the Runway Unlimited Company charges a monthly membership fee. The membership renews automatically and is charged on the same date every month, and the member can cancel at his own discretion. Members have more than 350 high-end designer items for $139 a month, and people can rent three designer dresses, blouses, skirts or accessories at a time, and keep them for as long as they like. RTR College Rep Program is a specific program for students. The cleanliness of clothes, as in the previous case, is done by the brand itself [15]. YCloset [16], founded in 2015, is a Chinese clothingsharing platform where users pay a monthly subscription fee to rent clothing and accessories. YCloset charges a monthly membership fee of 499 yuan, which allows users to rent unlimited clothing and accessories through their mobile application. According to YCloset CEO Liu Mengyuan, the clothing-sharing business will become commonplace on e-commerce platforms in the future due to the low value of membership and the huge variety of styles offered by the brand. YCloset also partnered with the luxury brand of Kenzo and Acne Studios. The Laundromat service chain also is a strategic partner. Challenges in Portugal Chic by Choice, a dressing platform for international designer dresses, once considered the best fashion start-up for technological start-ups, entered the Forbes ranking in 2018 on the Under 30 list. After a while news came out about bankruptcy of the store and sales with 80% [17]. Wardrobe is a P2P platform to reallocate party clothing, keeping in circulation products previously idle or stocked. It operates in a collaborative way, allowing users to monetize clothes without being discarded. It offers the possibility of partnerships with outsourced services (delivery, laundry, repairs, etc.). As the Wardrobe does not have physical inventory, users being their clothing owners, gives it a high potential for scalability. Wardrobe is a platform created in Brazil is very successful [18]. CEO Germanno Telles replicated the business model in Portugal, but with the rent was unsuccessful and had to switch to the sale option. 18

29 Obstacles to maintenance of the model in Portugal Initially, it is essential to identify perceived barriers to Portuguese consumer behaviour, there is no awareness of business models that replace access ownership. There is a lack of awareness and mobilization of citizens and economic agents. Accelerating sustainable development requires a paradigm shift in terms of the productive process in order to migrate from a linear economy to a circular economy. It is about changing habits, mentalities and methods rooted in society. According to agenda 2030 [19], the future of Research and Innovation for the Circular Economy in Portugal depends on a collective approach, along with the collaborative economy, involving the Academy in the first place, with multidisciplinary models of interaction in civil society. Fig. 1: Exponential System Design for sustainability in Fashion Design. [20] Figure 1 shows the preliminary system that is the focus of the study in question. -Management Information: Big data -Fashion Revolution UBI: social innovation -Sustainable Fashion Design Research line -Reuse: change of clothes or business through the platform. -Memory Evolution and Preservation: A tab on the site available to be used as a virtual museum. -Re-Fashion: Action of Upcycling with students and community. -Conscious Dressing counselling with the community. -Re-Design Action consulting, improvement and value added as company and artisan -Supplies bibliography and available subjects on the themes. Conclusion It is the systematization of a business model (PSS) product service systems, integrating the approaches and contributions of design to sustainability in fashion. It proposes its implementation in Covilhã, Portugal, with eco-efficient, collaborative and sustainable services in fashion products, which can be replicated in its entirety or by parts, in other places and contexts, adopting, for this, modularity as an adaptive resource. Digital technology has the potential to contribute to sustainability by digitizing services for the purpose of dematerializing clothing and allowing temporary access to them. The platform will be developed with the support of Department of Informatics of UBI. Acknowledgements The authors thanks to Santander-Totta for the IDB/ICI- FE/Santander-Totta-UBI/2017 doctorate grant, to FibEnTech R&D Unit, Covilhã, Portugal, and to Design, Sustainability and Innovation Research Group (Desin), UEL Design Department. References [1] C. Vezzoli, Design De Sistema Para Sustentabilidade, Teoria, Métodos e Ferramentas para o design sustentável, Sistema De Satisfação, Salvador, Editora Edufba (2010). [2] RIO 92 - Declaração do Rio sobre Meio ambiente e Desenvolvimento. Available in: < rio20/img/2012/01/rio92.pd, last accessed 2018/9/6. [3] COP , cop21/, last accessed 2018/9/6. [4] L. Fletcher, Grose, Moda & Sustentabilidade, Design Para Mudança. São Paulo, [5] Ellen MacArthur Foundation: Towards circular economy: economic and business rationality for an accelerated transition. foundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/a-new- Textiles-Economy_Full-Report_Updated_ pdf, last accessed 2018/9/12. [6] Circular Europe Network: General guidance for the implementation of Strategies. Integrated Circular Economy Regional Level (SD). [7] M. Toni et al., Understanding the link between collaborative economy and sustainable behavior (2018) Journal of Cleaner Production, 172, pp [8] J. Rifkin, The Age of Access: The New Culture of Hypercapitalism Where All of Life Is a Paid-For Experience Putnam Publishing Group (2000). [9] R. Botsman, R. Rogers, O que e meu e seu: como o consumo colaborativo vai mudar o nosso mundo. Bookman, Porto Alegre. (2011). [10] L. Gansky, Mesh: Por que o Futuro dos Negócios e Compartilhar, Atlas Book. Rio de Janeiro, [11] K. Stokes, E. Clarence, L. Anderson, and A. Rinne, Making Sense of the UK Collaborative Economy, September, [12] Bock Anne-Katrin. Bontoux Laurent. Figueiredo Do Nascimento Susana. Szczepanikova Alice.The Future Of The Eu Collaborative Economy Using Scenarios To Explore Future Implications For Employment; Eur En; Doi: / [13] Lena Fashion-Library. Available at ecouterre.com/amsterdams-lena-fashion library-lets-youcheck-out-clothing-literally/lena-fashion-library. Last accessed 2018/9/6. 19

30 [14] Gwynnie Bee. Available at gwynniebee.com/ last accessed 2018/9/7. [15] Renttherunway. Available at renttherunway.com/unlimited last accessed 2018/9/7 [16] Ycloset. Available at business/china-business/article/ /china-clothessharing-start-ycloset-secures us50m-new-funds, last accessed 2018/9/6. [17] Chic-By-Choicehttps://eco.pt/opiniao/ascensao-equeda-da-chic-by-choice-as-licoes-de-um-fracasso. Last accessed 2018 /9/17. [18] Wardrobe Homepage, com.br/promover-roupa. Last accessed 2018/9/6. [19] Agenda Temática De Investigação E Inovação Economia Circular, Fundação Para A Ciência E A Tecnologia (2018). [20] F. Solange et al, Collaborative Sustainable Business Model-Fashion Library, 24th APDR Congress Intellectual Capital and Regional Development: New landscapes and challenges for space planning, ISBN , July 6-7, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal. pp

31 Nitrate removal in vertical flow constructed wetland using two different plant species: Vetiveria zizanioides and Oryza sativa A. Almeida 1,2, M.J. Imaginário 1, C. Ribeiro 1, F. Carvalho 1,2, 1 Departamento de Ciências e Tecnologias Aplicadas, Escola Superior Agrária de Beja, Instituto Politécnico de Beja, Beja, Portugal 2 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The aim of this work is present to the results of research about how hydraulic load (H L) and two different species of plants interferes with efficiency of nitrate removal from wastewater in constructed wetlands systems with subsurface vertical flow (VFCW). These trials were done in two identical VFCWs (0.24 m 2 x 0.70 m, VFCW 1 planted with Vetiveria zizanioides and VFCW 2 with Oryza sativa. The VFCWs were fed from two reservoirs, one with minimum mineral medium and nitrate, and the other one with fructose. The H L varied from 148 ± 9 to 473 ± 9 L m -2 d -1, nitrate load from 3 ± 0.1 to 9 ± 0.2 g m -2 d -1. Nitrate removal load increased proportionally to nitrate and H L applied, gradually reaching a maximum nitrate load removal, different in both (p<0.05). The maximum values obtained were 3.0 ± 0.3 g m -2 d -1 and 2.0 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, in VFCW 1 and VFCW 2, when nitrate load was 5.0 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, and H L 239 ± 7 L m -2 d -1. Plants toxicity signs were not noticed. These plants are not usually used in constructed wetland, the efficiencies obtained encouraged further studies. Introduction Several nitrogen-containing compounds such as nitrate, nitrite and ammonium have been found as common pollutants in drinking water and various wastewaters. Nitrate causes several problems, namely eutrophication and diseases, cyanosis and esophagus cancer [1]. Although the nitrogen removal via conventional solutions (e.g. centralized wastewater treatment plants) have been recognized as inefficient; biological denitrification is considered a cost-effective method [2]. Constructed wetlands can be an alternative for nitrate removal from water and wastewater, through the mechanisms of microbial denitrification and direct uptake by plants and microbes. In recent decades, vertical flow constructed wetland (VFCWs) have been designed and engineered to utilize the natural processes of nitrogen removal. Thus, VFCWs design and operation could be optimized to provide sufficient oxygen for ammonia oxidation or create anoxic condition for denitrification. This one is the major nitrate removal process in constructed wetlands [3]. It is an anoxic process where bacteria use nitrate (NO 3 - ) or nitrite (NO 2 - ) as an electron acceptor, and organic carbon as an electron donor to obtain energy for growth and maintenance, and produce nitrogen gas (N 2), nitrous oxide (N 2O) or nitric oxide (NO) [4]. There are some factors that influence denitrification, including, appropriate redox potential (Eh), temperature, ph, soil type, moisture saturation degree, availability of nitrate and carbon, absence of oxygen, and plants species of the wetland system [2]. Denitrification is an anaerobic dissimilative pathway in which the synthesis of the enzymes involved in each denitrification step and the corresponding denitrification rates are greatly repressed by the presence of dissolved oxygen (DO). DO should be maintained below 1 mg L -1 ; however, denitrification was observed in systems with DO in the range of mg L -1 or higher [5, 6]. In addition, carbon source is a controlling factor in the process of denitrification. It is usually supplied by wastewater, soil, plant root exudates or can be improved in occasions throughout untreated influent bypass or stepfeeding [7], but an external source, such as glucose, sodium acetate and fructose may be needed when influents contain low C/N ratios [2]. Hydraulic load (H L) and hydraulic retention time (HRT) are some of the most important factors that control the performance of subsurface flow constructed wetland systems. Thus, it is important to identify the critical HRT or H L, to obtain substantial nitrate removal. The effect of hydraulic loads or nitrate loading rate on nitrate removal has received great attention by some researchers [3, 8, 9]. Plants are considered an indispensable component in constructed wetlands. They take up the nitrate as nutrient, provide energy and carbon to fuel denitrification either from biomass or root release, and produce biomass for energy purposes [9]. Plants may also influence soil microenvironment by excreting enzymes, exudates, and oxygen, which can influence microbial diversity or can indirectly affect the rhizosphere enzymatic activity [10]. In this experimental study, Vetiveria zizanioides was selected due to some evidences; for instance, this plant has been used successfully in wastewater VFCW treatment. Additionally, Vetiveria zizanioides presents a great ability to remove total nitrogen, ammonium and nitrate [11, 12,13]. Oryza Sativa was selected for this study because is a very abundant plant in Portugal,and was also used by Kantawanichkul and Duangjaisak [12] and Ying-Hua et al. [14] to treat domestic wastewater in VFCWs, obtaining high removal efficiencies. The utilization of wastewater for growing rice can not only provides irrigation water, but also acts as fertilizer. This work intends to study the influence of the H L and two different species of plants on the nitrate removal 21

32 efficiency from wastewater in constructed wetland systems with subsurface vertical flow. Materials and Methods The experimental work was carried out in two identical pilot-scale vertical flow constructed wetlands (0.24 m m) filled with light expanded clay aggregates (Leca NR 10/20) and planted with Vetiveria zizanioides (VFCW 1) and Oryza sativa (VFCW 2) (Figure 1). the VFCWs were fed with synthetic wastewater, prepared by mixing in tap water potassium nitrate and fructose as nitrogen and carbon sources. was also added a minimum mineral medium diluted in tap water [15]. 63 ± 7 cm respectively (Figure 2). Almeida [11] and Almeida et al. [13] in Vetiveria zizanioides assays obtained a similar height when working with synthetic wastewater (130 cm), but higher when a swine wastewater was treated (204 cm). For Oryza Sativa, the available data from the Portuguese rice producers demonstrate that in rice fields the plant height can vary from 60 to 180 cm. Fig. 3. VFCW 1 (planted with Vetiveria zizanioides) and VFCW 2 (planted with Oryza sativa) growth curve and nitrate load applied. Values are means ± SD, (n 10). Fig. 1. Times New Roman font size 9pt, full justification. Sampling collection and analysis Water samples were collected, from the influent and from effluent of each VFCW. The electrical conductivity (EC), ph, redox potential (Eh) and dissolved oxygen (DO) were immediately measured. Aliquots were frozen at -20 ºC to determine the other parameters. Chemical oxygen demand (COD), nitrite (NO 2 - -N) and nitrate (NO 3 - -N) were determined according to Standard Methods [16]. Data analysis Results were statistically verified using software Statitistica 8.0 (StatSoft, Inc., USA). Differences in wastewater quality between influent and effluent of the constructed wetlands were determined using ANOVA at the significance level of p<0.05. Post-hoc (a posteriori) Tukey s test was used to determine differences between means of specific variables. Each trial lasted three weeks at least, and, as stated above, samples were taken daily from Monday until Friday each week; so a minimum of ten samples were taken from influent and effluent wastewater in each trial from each VFCW. The means and the standard deviation (S.D.) were calculated with n 10. Results and discussion Plants growth During the whole study period all plants grew very well, without obvious symptoms of toxicity signals, such as chlorosis, leaf curl, early senescence stages and deficit of nutrients. However, the height reached by the plants was different, being higher in Vetiveria zizaniodes than in Oryza Sativa, presenting a maximum of 130 ± 9 cm and Electrical conductivity (EC), ph, Redox potential (Eh) and Dissolved oxygen (DO) in influent and effluent Electrical conductivity (EC) values for each trial can be observed in Figure 3a. Fig. 3. Variation of the electrical conductivity EC (a), ph (b), redox potential Eh (c) and dissolved oxygen DO (d) in VFCW 1 and VFCW 2. There were no significant differences (p>0.05) between inlet outlet in each VFCW, and between the effluents of both VFCW. It was observed that influent and effluent ph mean values did not show significant differences (p>0.05) in each VFCW, but there was some decrease in the ph of 22

33 the effluent (Figure 3b). According to the Figure 3c, Eh average in influent varied from to mv. A slight decrease of Eh was detected in both VFCW effluent; however, Eh mean values in influent and effluent in each of the VFCWs did not show significant differences (p>0.05). DO content in influent was of up to mg L -1 (Figure 3d). Nitrogen transformation vs C/N ratios In general, carbon can already be present in wastewater to be treated, coming from the decay of plant biomass or plant root exudates [17] or added as external carbon source [7]. In this work, synthetic wastewater was used, consequently fructose was added to promote denitrification efficiency. The C/N ratios applied during this study were 0.30 ± 0.10 C/N 0.34 ± 0.10 (Figure 4a) smaller than 1.25 g C/g N as recommended by Metcalf & Eddy [5]. Zhu et al. [18] worked with C/N ratios adjusted between 1 and 7 and verified that removal efficiency was the greatest at a C/N ratio of 5. Effluent C/N ratio decreased slightly, however without significant differences (p>0.05), between influent and effluent, in each trial, and between the two VFCW. Probably this slight decrease must be due to the organic matter oxidation, since DO was present, with CO 2 production in all trials and ph decrease in both VFCWs effluents (Figure 3b) [18]. In VFCW 2, the effluent C/N ration showed a tendency to rise when compared with VFCW 1, without significant differences between influents (p>0.05), due to a smaller nitrate and COD load removal as can be seen later. Fig. 4. Variation of C/N ratio (a) and removed nitrate load (NO 3 N removal) (b) with hydraulic load (H L) and influent nitrate load (NO 3- -N inf.) in VFCW 1 and VFCW 2. The influence of increasing H L (from 148 ± 9 L m -2 d -1 to 473 ± 9 L m -2 d -1 ) and nitrate load applied (NO 3 - -N inf. from 3 ± 0.1 g m -2 d -1 to 9 ± 0.2 g m -2 d -1 ) in the nitrate load removal (NO 3 - -N removal) and removal efficiency was analysed (Figure 4b). In both VFCWs, nitrate load removal increased with nitrate and H L applied, reaching a maximum value (Figure 4b). In VFCW 1, the maximum nitrate removal was 3 ± 0.3 g m -2 d -1 and the corresponding maximum removal efficiency was 60 ± 3 %. In VFCW 2, the maximum values of these two parameters were 2 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1 and 45 ± 2 %, respectively. These results were obtained to nitrate load applied of 5 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, and H L of 239 ± 7 L m -2 d -1 (Figure 4b) and HRT of ± 0.4 min. Beyond the reached maximum value, further increase in nitrate load applied or H L led to a considerable decrease in removal efficiency and nitrate load removal, more accentuated in VFCW 2. It is well accepted that both nitrate and organic matter concentrations may limit the nitrate removal rate of a biological denitrification process. There was sufficient organic carbon for denitrification in VFCWs because it remained in the effluent (Figure 4a). The increase of nitrate load removal by rising the nitrate load (in trial A and B) until 5 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, demonstrates that nitrate removal rate was controlled mainly by nitrate load. Thus, nitrate load was a rate-limiting factor here, due to the high nitrate load applied value. HRT and H L are frequently referred as factors that control the performance of nitrate removal. High H L promotes quicker passage of wastewater through the bed, increasing the nitrate load applied as well as the HRT reduction. The time of contact between the nitrogen compounds and microorganisms, or even between nitrogen and plants, is referred as dependent on the HRT [6]. Some researchers have referred that the H L increase implies also an increase in the DO, and, as well as suspension of sediment and organic compounds [7] and a decrease in HRT from min ± 0.8 to 70.0 min ± 0.1, in both VFCWs; there were significant differences (p<0.05) between the HRT in each trial. The HRT used were much smaller than those reported by some researchers [4], which ranged from 2 up to 10 d. As the maximum nitrate removal rate was obtained for the same HRT, in both VFCWs, and because nitrate removal rate decreased in the remaining trials, HRT may be a parameter that contributed for this to occur, together with the nitrate load applied and the plant species. However, throughout this work it remains unclear how this decrease happens. The maximum nitrate removal occurred at H L of 120 (free water surface) and 70 L m -2 d -1 (subsurface flow). Nitrate load applied varied from 3 ± 0.1 to 9 ± 0.2 g m -2 d -1, and nitrate load removal increased, reaching a maximum, different in both VFCWs (p<0.05). The maximum values obtained were 3 ± 0.3 g m -2 d -1 and 2 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, in VFCW 1 and VFCW 2 respectively, when nitrate load was 5 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, and H L 239 ± 7 L m -2 d -1. The removal efficiencies obtained varied from 60 ± 3% to 15 ± 2% in VFCW 1, and 45 ± 2% to 7 ± 1% in VFCW 2. Conclusions A VFCW system planted with Vetiveria zizanioides and Oryza sativa in light expanded clay aggregates, fed with [NO 3- -N] of 85 mg L -1 ± 7 (nitrate load applied from 3 ± 0.1 g m -2 d -1 to 9 ± 0.1 g m -2 d -1 ) and C/N ratio from 0.30 ± 0.10 C/N 0.34 ± 0.10, has demonstrated to be able of attaining nitrate removal efficiencies of 60 ± 3% and 45 ± 2 %, respectively. Nitrogen load removal in both VFCW increased with the rise in both nitrate and H L applied, gradually reaching a maximum value, after which a further increase in H L led to a considerable decrease in 23

34 nitrate removal rate. The inhibition of removal seems to depend on the nitrate load and the plant used in VFCW. In VFCW 1, planted with Vetiveria zizanioides, the maximum nitrate load removal was 3 ± 0.3 g m -2 d -1, while in VFCW 2, the maximum value of nitrate load removed was 2 ± 0.4 g m -2 d -1, for the same nitrate load applied (5.0 ± 0.4 g m -2 ). Nitrate removal was observed even for aerobic conditions in the influent and effluent. Thus, DO in the influent ranged between and mg L -1, and in the effluent smaller values were obtained ( and mg L -1 for VFCW 1 and VFCW 2, respectively). Further work is needed to determine how nitrate removal occurred at high DO, and to know exactly what is the role of plants in the nitrate removal. References [1] N. Oztürk, T. Bektas, Nitrate removal from aqueous solution by adsorption onto various materials, J. Hazard. Mater. 112 (2004) [2] S. Chatterjee, S.H. Woo, The removal of nitrate from aqueous solutions by chitosan hydrogen beads, J. Hazard. Mater. 164 (2009) [3] P. Cooper, A review of the design and performance of vertical-flow and hybrid reed bed treatment systems, Water Sci. Technol. 40 (1999) 1-9. [4] T. Saeed, G. Sun, A review on nitrogen and organics removal mechanisms in subsurface flow constructed wetlands: Dependency on environmental parameters, operating conditions and supporting media, J. Env. Manag. 112 (2012) [5] Metcalf & Eddy. Wastewater engineering treatment disposal and reuse. 4ª ed., New York, McGraw-Hill Higher Education, pp ; [6] Kadlec R.H., Wallace S. Treatment Wetlands 2nd ed., CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton, New York, pp ; [7] L. Songliu, H. Hongying, S. Yingxue, Y. Jia, Effect of carbon source on the denitrification in constructed wetlands, J. Env. Sci. 21 (2009) [8] Z. Mucha, W. Wójcik, K. Jóźwiakowski, M. Gajewska, Long-term operation of Kickuth-type constructed wetland applied to municipal wastewater treatment in temperate climate, Envir. Tech. (2017) [9] A. Almeida, J. Maggiolly Novais, S. Martins-Dias, Nitrate removal from synthetic wastewater in a VFCW planted with Vetiveria zizanioides, 12th International Conference on Wetland Systems for Water Pollution Control, Venice, Italia (2010) [10] Y. Lin, S. Jing, T. Wang, D. Lee, Effects of macrophytes and external carbon sources on nitrate removal from groundwater in constructed wetlands, Envir. Pollut. 119 (2002) [11] M.A.A. Almeida, Remoção de compostos de azoto em efluente de suinicultura por recurso à fitoremediação, Ph.D. thesis in Environ. Eng., IST, Technical University of Lisbon, Lisbon, [12] S. Kantawanichkul, W. Duangjaisak, Domestic wastewater treatment by constructed wetland planted with rice, Wat. Sci. Tech. 64 (2011), [13] M.A. Almeida, R.M. Fernandes, L.C. Davies, J.M. Novais, S. Martins-Dias, Swine wastewater nitrification and denitrification in a Vertical Flow Constructed Wetland planted with Vetiveria zizanioides, 11th International Conference on Wetland Systems for Water Pollution Control, Indore, Índia (2008) [14] D. Ying-Hua, Z. Ya-Li, S. Qi-Rong, W. Song-Wei, Nitrate Effect on Rice Growth and Nitrogen Absorption and Assimilation at Different Growth Stages, Pedosphere 16 (2006) [15] R.G. Hunter, D.L. Combs, D.B. George, Nitrogen, phosphorous, and organic carbon removal in simulated wetland treatment systems, Arch. Environ. Contam. Toxicol. 41 (2001), [16] APHA. Standard Methods for the Examination of Water and Wastewater, 22th American Public Health Association/American Water Works Association/Water Environment Federation, Washington DC, USA, [17] X. Zhai, N. Piwpuan, C.A. Arias, H. Brix, T. Headley, Can root exudates from emergent wetland plants fuel denitrification in subsurface flow constructed wetland systems? Ecol. Eng. 61 (2013) [18] H. Zhu, B. Yan, Y. Xu, J. Guan, S. Liu, Removal of nitrogen and COD in horizontal subsurface flow constructed wetlands under different influent C/Nratios, Ecol. Eng. 63 (2014)

35 Chemical composition of n-hexane extract from Lippia multiflora Moldenke collected in Angola M. Nelo, N.S. Samba, L. Silva, P. Rocha, J. Rodilla FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The objective of this work is to study the chemical composition of hot n-hexane extract from leaves of the Lippia multiflora Moldenke collected in Angola in the province of Zaire in the municipality of Mbanza Kongo, in the village of Wolongo. The extraction was done using a Soxhlet extractor in hexane, the extract was separated by flash column chromatography and analysed by gas chromatography, the pure products were identified by spectroscopic techniques, such as IR, NMR and MS. In the leaves extract of n-hexane was isolated and identified for the first time in this plant piperitenone. Introduction Lippia multiflora Moldenke, grows within the wooded savannahs where it colonizes the bush and the edges of the paths. This plant is native to Africa, where it is widespread, especially in West Africa and sub-saharan Africa [1-5]. It is also found in the countries of South and Central America [6]. In Angola this plant is most commonly found in the northern part of the country. Lippia species have a long history of traditional medicinal application, some of which have scientific validation. They are mainly used in the treatment of respiratory and gastrointestinal disorders. In addition, they present antimalarial, spasmolytic, sedative, hypotensive and anti-inflammatory activities [2]. Lippia multiflora Moldenke has been used in many traditional and herbal medicines to treat bronchial inflammation, conjunctivitis, gastrointestinal disorders, enteritis, cough and colds, treatment of liver diseases / remedies of collateral / vesicular disease, antihypertensive, antimalarial; treatment of respiratory diseases; also attributes the sedative properties [5,6]. Some villagers cook herbs and use it to relieve stress and improve sleep. This plant is part of the composition of some of the traditional African medicines Lippia multiflora Moldenke is an aromatic plant widely distributed in tropical and subtropical countries, its economic value being attributed especially to the essential oil obtained from the aerial parts. Through the reports, it is suggested the characterization of three chemo-types according to the composition in 1,8- cineol, thymol, Farnesol [2]. The few reports on the fixed constituents present in Lippia multiflora Moldenke highlight the presence of triterpenes, flavonoids and phenylpropanoids [7]. The pharmacological properties of Lippia multiflora Moldenke are generally attributed to essential oil, although other extracts have also shown some activities. At doses of 2, 4 and 8 ml kg -1, the essential oil of Lippia multiflora Moldenke showed a significant analgesic effect and tranquilizante compared to diazepan, dose-dependent of acetic acid-induced seizures in mice and antipyretic in rats, in the model of [8-10]. The essential oil of L. multiflora has antimicrobial activity [11,12]. In fact, it is more active in Gram-negative bacteria [13]. Other studies have also shown that this oil is an antimalarial insecticide against P. falciparum, antioxidant and anti-radical [4], Pediculicida against Pediculus humanus corporis and Pediculus humanus capitis and scabicide in humans with scabies [14-17]. In vitro antimicrobial against Bacillus cereus, Enterococcus faecalis, E. coli, Listeria innocua, Proteus mirabilis, Salmonel Enterica, Shigella dysenteria, S. aureus and S. Camorum [12,14,18-20]. Materials and methods Collection of plant and extraction The leaves of Lippia multiflora Moldenke were collected in Angola in the province of Zaire (municipalities of Mbanza Kongo in the village of Wolngo in January Extraction with n- hexane The compounds in the leaves of Lippia multiflora Moldenke were extracted with n-hexane using a Soxhlet extractor for 24 hours and the extracts were dried using a Buchi VAC V-500 pump evaporator with solvent removal. Purification by Chromatography After extraction, the compounds in the n-hexane extracts were separated and purified using chromatographic techniques. Spectroscopic identification of the compounds After chromatographic purification, the chemical compounds in the fractions obtained are identified by spectroscopic techniques such as: IR, NMR and MS. Infrared Spectroscopy (IR) The readings were performed on a Thermo Scientific spectrophotometer, Nicolet IS model 10. Samples were placed on the diamond, previously cleaned with isopropanol. The spectra were performed using OMNIC software. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy Proton nuclear magnetic resonance ( 1 H-NMR) spectra and carbon ( 13 C-NMR) were performed on a Bruker Avant 400 spectrophotometer at 400MHz and 100MHz, respectively. The chemical shifts (δ) are expressed in parts per million (ppm) and the constant(j) in Hertz. The solvent used was deuterated chloroform (CDCl3). 25

36 Mass Spectrometry It was used a mass spectrometer MS A 5975C inert XLMSD and the ionization technique used was an electronic impact of 70 ev. Analysis by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) After purification by chromatography, the spectroscopic analysis the hexane fractions of Lippia multiflora Moldenke revealed large mixtures were analyzed by gas chromatography using an Agilent technology 7890A chromatograph associated with a MS A 5975C inert XLMSD mass spectrometer. The ionization technique used was an electronic impact of 70 ev. The column used was J & W DB5-ms 30 m in length, 0.25 mm in diameter and 0.25 μm film thickness, performed with the following temperature setting: 60 C for 5 minutes, then the temperature 10 C per minute to 250 C. The injector temperature was 250ºC, the source temperature was 230ºC, the interface temperature was 280ºC and the quadrupole temperature was 180ºC. The entrainment gas used is helium and its flow rate were 1 ml / minute. Results and discussion After flash column chromatography of the hexane extract a greenish fraction was analyzed by infrared spectroscopy (IR), mass spectrometry (MS), and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) one and the twodimensional COSY, HSQC, HMBC. The mass spectrum showed the peak of the molecular ion in m/z 150 indicated the presence of a substance with a molecular formula C 10 H 14O. Analyzing the infrared spectrum of the compound, we have seen that in the region of region 3080 cm -1 we have a band characteristic of a carbon bond of the double bond (Csp 2 ) with hydrogen, at cm -1 we have a band elongation of a bond (CH 3 and CH 2 sp 3 ) with hydrogen, we have a band at cm-1 characteristic of a carbonyl (C = O) of a ketone and finally at 1614 Cm -1 we have a characteristic carbon- carbon (C = C). The 1 H NMR spectrum showed three methyl signals at and 1.62 ppm, two methylene signals at 1.84 and 2.19 ppm, exhibiting long-range coupling to one of the methine signals, and a methine proton at 5.38 ppm. The 13 C NMR spectrum showed the presence of three methyl 23.2; 22.0 and 22.3, two methylene confirmed by DEPT135 at 27.5 and 31,3 and a single signal confirmed by the DPTE 90 the methine at 128,4 ppm, three quaternary singlets at 159.0, and ppm and a carbonyl signal at ppm, illustrated in tables 1 and 2. With the analysis of HSQC spectrum, we conclude that proton 2 to 5.38 ppm belongs to carbon 2, protons 6 to 1.84 ppm belong to carbon 6, protons 5 to 2.19 ppm belong to carbon 5 of the molecule, the protons of 10 to 1.62 ppm belong to carbon 10, and the protons 9 of 1.40 ppm belong to carbon 9 and finally the protons 7 to 1.46 ppm belong to the carbon 7 of the molecule. HMBC spectrum, we have seen that the proton 2 at 5.38 ppm correlates with C-6, C-4 and C-7 of the molecule, protons at 1.84 ppm correlate with C-1, The protons 5 to 2.19 ppm are in correlation with C-3, C-1, C-6, C-4 and C- 8, protons 10 to 1.62 ppm correlate with C-4, C-8 and C-9, protons 9 to 1.40 ppm correlate with C-4, C-8 and C-10 and finally protons 7 to 1.46 ppm correlate with C-2, C-1, C-6 and with carbon 1. The COSY spectrum, which shows the right proton coupling, we have seen H - 6 unfold with H - 5, and H - 5 also unfold with H 6 with the above spectroscopic data, we conclude that the probable structure corresponding to this data is indicated in Figure 1. 3-methyl-6-(propan-2-ylidene)cyclohex-2-en-1-one Figure 1. Struture of Piperitenone Table 1. 1 H NMR and COSY data for 3-methyl-6- (propan-2- ylidene) cyclohex-2-en-1-one Signal Chemical shift (ppm) COSY correlation 2-H 5.38 (q, J =1,5, 1H) 4-H 1.84 (t, J =6,5, 2H) 4 H 5 H 5-H 2.19 (t, J =6,5, 2H 5 H 4 H 7-H 1.46 (s, 3H) 9-H 1.40 (s, 3H) 10-H 1.62 (s, 3H) Table C NMR and HSQC data for 3-methyl-6- (propan-2- ylidene) cyclohex-2-en-1-one Signal Chemical shift (ppm) HSQC Correlations C C H(5.38 ppm) C 2 C C H(1.84 ppm) C4 C H(2.19 ppm) - C5 C C C H(1.62 ppm) C8 C H(1.40 ppm) C9 C H(1.46 ppm) C10 26

37 After purification by chromatography, the spectroscopic analysis revealed large mixtures in the fractions C2L1-6, C2L1-7, C2L1-8 and C2L1-9 to identify the chemical compounds in the mixture, which were analyzed by GC- MS revealing the following compositions presented in table 3. Table 3. Fractions Compounds 1-acetil-2-metil-1- ciclohexanol C2L1 6 % 4.90 C2L1 7 % C2L1 8 % C2L1 9 % neral citral epóxi-linalol epóxi-linalol isomer elemol 3.79 neofitadiene ,10,14-trimetil-2- pentadecanone 0.77 ácido hexadecanoic 0.68 phytol 6.76 neofitadieno isomer 1.15 Total identified Total unidentified Mixture Conclusions It was possible to isolate and determine the structure of Piperitenone by spectroscopic data. It is also worth noting that this compound exists in other species of Lippia, such as Lippia javanica (Manenzhe, Potgieter, & Ree, 2004), but according to the literature consulted during elaboration of this work this compound was never isolated in Lippia multiflora Moldenke this is the first time this compound is isolated from Lippia multiflora. Acknowledgements Acknowledge to FibEnTech Research Unit, Chemistry Department, Faculty of Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior. References [1] A. Abena, A. Etou Ossibi, G. Tsiba, N. Andissa, J. Ouamba, Étude monographique de Lippia multiflora Moldenke (Verbenaceae), Phytothérapie 15 (2017) [2] O.F. Kunle, H. Egharevba Omoregie, Essential oil of Lippia multiflora Moldenke: A review, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 2 (2012) [3] O. Kunle, J. Okogun, E. Egamana, E. Emojevwe, M. Shok, Antimicrobial activity of various extracts and carvacrol from Lippia multiflora leaf extract, Phytomedicine 10 (2003) [4] F. Avlessi, G. Alitonou, D. Sohounhloue, C. Menut, J. M. Bessiere, Aromatic Plants of Tropical West Africa. Part XIV Chemical and Biological Investigation of Lippia multiflora Mold. Essential Oil from Benin, J. Essent. Oil Res. 17 (2005) [5] L.C. Soro, S. Munier, A.L.-A. Atchibri, L. Grosmaire, C. Menut, K. A. Malan, Y. Pelissier, Chemical Composition of Leaf Essential Oils of Lippia multiflora Mold. Grown in Savannah and Forest Area in the Ivory Coast, Journal of Essential Oil-Bearing Plants (2015) [6] M. Pascual, K. Slowing, E. Carretero, D. Mata, A. Villar, Lippia: traditional uses, chemistry and pharmacology: a review, Journal of Ethnopharmacology 76 (2001) [7] C. Kanko, G. Koukoua, Y.T. N'Guessan, J. Fournier, J.- P. Pradère, L. Toupet, Contribution à l'étude phytochimique de Lippia multiflora (Verbenaceae), Comptes Rendus Chimie 7 (2004) [8] A.A. Abena, G. Ngondzo-Kombeti, D. Bioka, Psychopharmacologic properties of Lippia multiflora, Encephale 24 (1998) [9] A. Abena, J. Atipo-Ebata, T. Hondi Assah, M. Diatewa, Psychopharmacological properties of crude extract and essential oil of Lippia multiflora, Encephale 27 (2001) [10] A. Abena, M. Diatewa, G. Gakosso, M. Gabeassor, T. Hondi-Assah, J. Ouamba, Analgesic, antipyretic and antiinflammatory effects of essential oil of Lippia multiflora, Fitoterapia 74 (2003) [11] Y. Pèlissier, C. Marion, J. Casadebaig, M. Milhau, D. Kone, G. Loukou, J.-M. Bessibre, A Chemical, Bacteriological, Toxicological and Clinical Study of the Essential Oil of Lippia multijlora Mold. (Verbenaceae), J. Essent. Oil Res. 6 (1994) [12] I.H. Bassolé, A. Lamien-Meda, B. Bayala, S. Tirogo, C. Franz, J. Novak, M.H. Dicko, Composition and Antimicrobial Activities of Lippia multiflora Moldenke, Mentha x piperita L. and Ocimum basilicum L., Essential Oils and Their Major Monoterpene Alcohols Aloneand in Combination Molecules 15 (2010) [13] I. Bassole, A. Ouattara, R. Nebie, C. Ouattara, Z. Kabore, S. Traore, Chemical composition and antibacterial activities of the essential oils of Lippia chevalieri and Lippia multiflora from Burkina Faso, Phytochemistry 62 (2003) [14] F. Oladimeji, O.O. Orafdiya, T.A. Ogunniy, T. Adewunm, Pediculocidal and scabicidal properties of Lippia multiflora essential oil, Journal of Ethnopharmacology 72 (2000) [15] A.-W. Etou-Ossibi, J. Nzonzi, J. Mombouli, G. Nsondé-Ntandou, J.-M. Ouamba, A. Abena, Screening chimique et effets de l'extrait aqueux du Lippia multiflora Moldenke sur le cœur isolé du crapaud, Phytothérapie 5 (2005) [16] J. Mevy, J. Bessiere, M. Dherbomez, J. Millogo, J. Viano, Chemical composition and some biological activities of the volatile oils of a chemotype of Lippia chevalieri Moldenke, Food Chemistry 101 (2007) [17] N.J. Manenzhe, N. Potgieter, T.V. Ree, Composition and antimicrobial activities of volatile components of Lippia javanica, Phytochemistry 65 (2004) [18] J. Mevy, J. Bessiere, M. Dherbomez, J. Millogo, J. Viano, Chemical composition and some biological 27

38 activities of the volatile oils of a chemotype of Lippia chevalieri Moldenke, Food Chemistry 101 (2007) [19] F.R. Salimena, Uma nova espécie de Lippia L. (Verbenaceae) do cerrado brasileiro, Acta Bot. Bras. 24 (2010) [20] L.C. Soro, M. Sylvie, P. Yves, G. Lidwine, Y. Rickey, K. David, P. Patrick, Influence of geography, seasons and pedology on chemical composition, Journal of Ethnopharmacology 194 (2016)

39 Fashionable and Functional Wool Fabrics: Clothing Design for Outdoor Activities B. Reis 1, L. Ribeiro 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1, M. Pereira 1, J.M. Lucas 1, J. Carvalho 2, M.J.S. Silva 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FITECOM - Comercialização e Industrialização Têxtil, S. A., Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Regarding textiles and clothing, current trends are focused on increasing the technicality of the products, with consumers more alert and demanding, looking for products such as workwear, sports, or day-to-day clothing, which combine aesthetics and innovation, design, protection, comfort, multifunctionality, ease of maintenance, sustainability and competitive price. The result of social change focused on a healthier lifestyle, and activewear is a growing demand. Multifunctionality is also an attribute increasingly required by consumers, who consider it as a differentiating factor in their choices since it associates and adapts product valorisation properties. Inserted in the mobilising project TexBoost Less Commodities more Specialities, the PPS 2 (Products, Processes and Services) entitled "New fabrics for highperformance applications based on natural fibres", which seeks to respond to the challenges and trends. Seeking the necessary paradigm shift, through the development of technologically advanced products, processes and services that enable the co-promoters to grow in the value chain, penetrate more competitive market niches and reach new and more strategic and geographic markets with more purchasing power, which will allow them to gain a competitive advantage over their competitors. This work aims to present state of the art, that identifies the main innovative characteristics and advancement proposed by the new fabrics for high-performance applications based on natural fibres, betting on the development of multifunctional wool fabrics for activewear products with textile structures with UV protection for leisure-wear products. Introduction The TexBoost, is a structural project of the Textile Cluster: Technology and Fashion, which aims to include a set of research and development initiatives, of strong collective character and high inductor and demonstration effect, with central involvement of textiles and clothing companies, but also of other sectors of the economy, that aim the development of innovative solutions in different areas. Thus, extending the genesis of knowledge to the widespread dissemination of the solutions developed, applicable in the most varied contexts with a focus on socially impacting and economically emerging areas linked to the use of technical, functional and intelligent textiles, pointing markets as diverse as Medtech, Sportech, Mobiltech, Protech, Agrotech. The Portuguese ITV sector needs to distance itself from the lowest value-added products, to grow in the value chain and to better exploit it at a national and international level, as well as to work technologically advanced business niches. In this sense, new challenges are placed on ITV, such as the rejuvenation and modernisation of traditional sectors, technical and technological diversification, the development of new economic activities through a radical technological evolution and great innovations, aimed at recommending the concept of Industry 4.0, oriented for users and innovation in services. [1] The purpose is to investigate and develop, with Portuguese engineering and know-how, not only new high-performance materials but also the advanced use of natural fibres, in order to develop new solutions for application in technical and functional clothing aimed at sports, protection, health, work and leisure. The importance worldwide the areas mentioned both in the field of academic knowledge, as of industrial and economic activity is increasing. Marketing studies show that, in addition to the concerns of the aesthetic component and the excellent appearance of their clothing, today's consumers also demand, more and more, technical and functional work clothes, sports, or day-to-day, allied parameters innovation, aesthetics, design, protection, comfort, multifunctionality, ease of maintenance, sustainability and competitive price. Another great feature of the consumer these days is their ecological awareness that is reflected in the choice of eco-sustainable products. The result of the social change in the search for a healthier lifestyle, there is a higher focus on activewear. To these demands of today's markets, high-performance materials with distinctive features are essential. Literature Review Driving Forces Among the main innovation drivers of the Portuguese Industry of Textile and Clothing, are high-tech products intended for application in markets as diverse as sportswear and protection, automotive and mobility, health, decoration, habitat and civil construction, agriculture. The global driving forces and their iteration with the Sector of Textile and Clothing are the highperformance intelligent materials, the high-value solutions for the attractive and growing markets, the circular economy and resource procurement and the 4.0 Industry. Responding to these driving forces is not only the development of new functional textiles and advanced 29

40 textiles for composites but also new equipment and processes. Uncontrollable among the driving forces, intending to the Sector of Textile and Clothing Breakthrough, is the IoT - Internet of Things concept. In this context, the great and growing challenge associated with the development of new and increasingly complex textile solutions is an excellent opportunity for the Portuguese industry. Functional Wool Fabrics Of the principle phases into which wool textile manufactures is divided in spinning, weaving, finishing and dying, the finishing is undoubtedly the one that is still the most dependent on empirical knowledge. Fabric finishing aims to provide the market with a valuable product, both from an aesthetic and functional point of view, and to satisfy the technical requirements of the making-up industry. With this obtained by an optimisation of the intrinsic properties of the elements that constitute the fabric, optimising at the same time the technical and economic aspects of the process. [2] In the context of this project, the wool used should have anti felting treatment, chlorine-free, washable to enable final product with improved mechanical strength low pilling formation. The final product, mostly wool based, with innovative characteristics, will have applications in casual clothing for the light sports and leisure or urban clothing segments. Another approach for similar purposes will be the development of a two-layer structure, the outer one in a merino wool fabric and the inside in a fabric of synthetic fibres, for example, polypropylene, to obtain a breathable multilayer structure and improved temperature. This development will be achieved by laminating with heat and pressure. Further, to obtain textile materials for similar applications and using coating processes, thin wool fabrics with layers of antimicrobial agents, odour protection and brightening will be studied in localised or non-localized regions in the fabric. The developments in activewear focus mainly on the adaptation of traditional sports pieces to a contemporary and urban design, especially pieces and mesh that can be used and combined in different contexts, in addition to the gym. In this context, the use of wool has been in great prominence, especially merino wool for its ability to transfer perspiration out of the body, resistance to odour and easy maintenance. Some brands that have emphasised the use of 100% merino wool or blends are, for example, SmartWool [3], Voormi [4], and AEANCE [5]. Trends of Clothing Design for outdoor activities Focused in social changes, some designers have pioneered the development of fashion and fitness apparel, such as Alexander Wang with his designs inspired in street style, Yohji Yamamoto with his Y-3 line in partnership with Adidas, designer Hussein Chalayan in a capsule collection developed with Puma, and the already long-established partnership of designer Stella McCartney and Adidas. [6] The trend of outdoor activity clothes use in everyday life has evolved into what has been described as a new trend called "Athleisure", is a trend that focuses on the joining of fashion elements with technical fabrics. [7] Based on activewear inspirations, this is creating on everyday wear and tear, but with performance and comfort characteristics reflected in a sophisticated yet relaxed lifestyle. [8] Some brands have embraced this trend, are for example the Athleta, or even brands of the lux segment like Dolce & Gabanna. To confirm this social trend and the increasing use of wool in the segment of highperformance technical fabrics, The Woolmark lab, in its catalogue of trends for the autumn/winter 2017/2018, dedicates one of its themes to "Athleisure", mention: "is a mix-and-match of fashion elements with functional pieces, giving rise to a luxurious look". [9] Following the Trends Following this new trend, the research and development focus of new proposals in the field of functional textile materials based on wool, specifically combed and carded fabrics, is of great importance. This project intends, through the long experience of the company Fitecom with traditional wool fabrics, although already with the introduction of technological innovation in some, to promote textile innovation combining classic and casual, conventional and technological. These innovations are based on the development of simple, bi or tri-laminated fabrics, with the possible introduction of membranes, composed of 100% wool yarns, blends of wool with technical fibres, wool and silk blend, wool and lyocell, wool and viscose, and later functional finishes. The coatings and laminate will interact differently with the fabric due to the way they are placed on it. Coating and laminating techniques have a widespread application in all areas of technical textiles, enabling a given functionality and improved durability. They may include waterproof and breathability, higher resistance to abrasion, dirt, flame, UV / IV and antimicrobial radiation or to enable the application of phase change materials, among others. There are two primary applications for the fabrics to be developed, following concepts of a contemporary, city lifestyle but with a connection to nature. Parkas fabrics and coats, overcoats for outdoor protection, day-to-day or leisure activities, urban or weekend breaks; and trouser fabrics, blazers, jackets and suits, revisiting classic applications and cuts, but with added functionalities, both from the aesthetic point of view and comfort, making it possible to use in urban environments (new classic), but with protection in environments outsider. In recent years we have witnessed a growing on active wear. This approach results mainly from a social change in the search for a healthier lifestyle, a healthy diet, frequent exercise, and a balance between work and leisure, which consequently reflected in the choices of clothing. Going on a bike for work or doing a yoga session on the lunch break are increasingly frequent 30

41 activities that lead to the use of activewear apparel in work environments. This new lifestyle has transposed into the daily and weekend clothing of a considerable segment of urban professionals who work in the city and enjoy leisure in the city itself or nature breaks, becoming a strong trend. It should be noted that these new products will represent a development compared to the existing ones in the companies being products with higher added value, will allow to leverage the offer of new solutions to the target customers of the companies as well as to explore new areas, thus contributing to positive impacts on the environment, economy and society. This project aims to contribute to increasing the competitiveness of the group of companies. Increasing the level of cooperation between companies in the same sector or other sectors, contributing to sustainability, the conservation of natural resources and protection strengthen the national scientific and technological base and strengthen cooperation between enterprises and scientific institutions in the field of research and development. Demonstration actions, dissemination and other initiatives with an impact on the diffusion of technical and scientific results to other companies and sectors, with a plan to disseminate its technical and technological results to potential users as well as to potential clients. It is intended not only to promote the products developed with the target audience but also to disseminate good practice to the public. Technical and scientific publications are also envisaged, namely the publication of scientific articles of the corresponding project, articles of dissemination of results in technical journals of the speciality in the areas of activity of the co-promoters and in other events that the partnership understand relevant. The research strategy adopted, at the level of the PPS, is based on a methodology of innovation and product, process and service development, oriented to the final consumer that includes actions ranging from the identification of the need, through constant technological investigation to the definition of the scientifictechnological model that establishes the procedures to be followed for materializing the idea of concept in the form of a prototype and its validation, culminating in the strategy of promotion, dissemination and exploitation of results. The scientific, technological methodology adopted combines the acquisition and development of new knowledge in various domains, synergistically adding them to an analytical and applied research strategy. focusing on essential areas of industry that in turn touch a large portion of the economic sectors, PPS2 enhances the national development of new high value-added products, has an aggregating and structuring effect beyond the duration of the project. TexBoost intends to develop a new generation of textile solutions, in which the degree of innovation of the different solutions proposed in its scope is radical compared to the products verified by analysis of state of the art for each solution, already foreseeing the generation of new scientific knowledge. It is therefore recommended to develop highly innovative products and processes using emerging and cutting-edge technologies that will allow new experiences to their users, and to companies that take or participate in each PPS, opening to new markets or strengthening existing business areas, both nationally and internationally. Acknowledgements This investigation is supported by the mobilizador project n.º TexBoost - Less Commodities more Specialities PPS2 (New materials and advanced applications of natural fibres) AN4, co-supported by Programa Portugal 2020 (PT 2020), in the Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI) and European Union by Fundo Europeu de Desenvolvimento Regional (FEDER). References [1] Information on sources/docgener/informat/2014/smart_specialisation_pt.p df. [2] M. Bona, An Introduction to wool fabric finishing, TEXILIA, 1994 [3] Information on [4] Information on [5] Information on [6] Information on the-wool-lab/aw17-18-themes/ [7] Information on gregpetro/2015/09/16/lululemon-nike-and-the-rise-ofathleisure/#5f4bc6de37c8 [8] Information on /06/03/athleisure-a-look-at-premier-sportswear/ [9] Information on innovation/the-wool-lab/aw17-18-themes/ Final Considerations The bet on textiles with high added value, such as those produced in this project, is universally defended as a fundamental instrument for the revitalisation of the textile and clothing sector at European level. Their applicability to different markets and the increased interest/knowledge of end users in products with better technical and safety performance predicts to the market for technical and functional textiles, a considerable growth potential. By 31

42 Fashion Design Entrepreneurs: Research Conclusions C.E. Fernandes 1, M.M. Pereira 2, M.J. Madeira 3 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 UNIDCOM, IADE-UE, Lisbon, Portugal 3 NECE-UBI and Department of Management and Economics, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract This work deals with the results obtained through a 3-year investigation on Fashion Design Entrepreneurs in Portugal and abroad. Following the economic crisis that stroke the world and especially European countries such as Portugal, the fashion designers creating a business on their own, in order to fight the lack of employment very present at the time are observed in this work. Moreover, this study s purpose was to comprehend the specific profile of a fashion design entrepreneur, as well as how can more fashion design students be educated to create value and innovative projects in the highly competitive textile and apparel industry. Introduction The Portuguese textile and clothing industry have indubitably experienced many changes in the last few years. After the international crisis that stroke hard the economy of many countries, the catastrophe has been the catalyst for unemployment and austerity as its consequence. However, countries like Portugal are showing a real evolution since those dark times. The textile industry of Portugal has ended the year 2016 with 5063 million euros in exportations, a number that had not been reached since the beginning of the century [1]. Thus, encouraging and pushing the Portuguese textile and clothing industry further into former previsions made by the director of ATP (Textile and clothing industry association), Paulo Vaz. Such encouraging numbers are also going towards ATP's recent investment and plan to gain even more visibility and promote a "Made in Portugal" strategy [2]. Problem Portugal has also experienced a significant augmentation in terms of higher-education demand from students. Fields like fashion, apparel, and textile design have seen the number of entering students increase in their highereducation courses, considering years 2009/2010 in comparison to 2015/2016 [3,4]. Entrepreneurship has also been unquestionably one of the most used words in the past few years, in Portugal and internationally. In Portugal, such affirmation can be confirmed through the number of entrepreneurial models and incentives proposed and created, most of the times linked to regulatory proposals made to emphasize such ventures (IAPMEI, ANJE etc.). In this context, entrepreneurship has become more than something achievable with "luck" and is now considered by public opinion on a global scale as an objective of improvement by many countries, seeing an opportunity and solutions through the growth of entrepreneurship. More generally, students coming from various fields related to creative arts may benefit significantly from an entrepreneurial mindset, as innovation and multidisciplinary contents are part as these fields as they are part of entrepreneurship itself and can very well lead to a variety of jobs [5]. On the other side, the fashion design field has come to adopt entrepreneurship in another way for the past few years, in the sense that it can be considered that some individuals have always created their businesses in the field, even if entrepreneurship cannot be reduced to such definition. In such circumstances, the fashion industry has come to understand the need to innovate in an ever-changing field that comes across crisis on a daily-basis [6], even if on a national level, many are the family SMBs that cannot evolve and grow through innovation, trapped by their traditions, many times associated with the need for family union and only decider of the business's future [6]. As governmental entities have understood the importance of entrepreneurship for the future, many studies are also being made to determine whether or not entrepreneurship education can be the engine for a new generation of entrepreneurs [5,7-10]. Years after the most recent economic crisis that stroke the world, it is essential to reflect on the current reality in which our society inserts itself, as well as how the powerful fashion industry has seen a new generation of fashion design entrepreneur rise, in order to change a paradigm where only fast-fashion and historical luxury brands were in. Methodology First, an exhaustive literature review was handled to research in-depth the matter of entrepreneurship on one side, and the fashion design industry, on the other. Moreover, an extensive research was made about the curricula, specific objectives and professional outcomes presented by the Fashion Design Courses of Portugal, as well as abroad, with Business of Fashion s top 10 Schools list, also studied in this work. For the second part of this research, a quantitative methodology was used to target a particular sample, which had to be approached as massively as possible. A qualitative method was also used for this study, as it is also referred by authors as the most efficient way to collect information based on interviews, inquiries and other qualitative tools [11,12] that are not 32

43 considered compatible with statistical treatment. In sum, the use of a mixed-methodology that considers both data to obtain as much information as possible [13,14]. In sum, on the qualitative-based analysis, interviews were held on three different groups, composed by 9 fashion design entrepreneurs, 6 experts of the Fashion Textile Industry, and finally, 4 creators of solutions to improve and generate more projects and start-ups in the industry, obtaining a total of 19 international interviewees, whose responses were analyzed through QSR s Nvivo. For the quantitative data, more than 71 schools were contacted to reach as many fashion design students as possible through a questionnaire, obtaining a total 222 international respondents, whose results were analyzed through SPSS. Discussion of the Results Results of this study were based on the literature review, the observation of the Fashion Design Courses, as well as the qualitative data gathered from the interviews and the quantitative data obtained through the questionnaires. It was revealed that Fashion design higher education programs still have to go a long way to prepare their students for an entrepreneurial future. However, many courses are being created in that sense, and others are changing their curricula in this direction. Higher education courses must make the change this industry needs, create conscious and innovative designers, willing to change the world for the better. Soft skills such as the ability to build a strong network, perseverance; transform problems into opportunities create value and innovative projects, as well as multidisciplinarity are some of the most important skills needed by fashion design entrepreneurs, more than the ability to create a good business plan itself, although this last competence was considered crucial by many interviewed people. Interviews also evidenced the need to create more incentives for fashion design entrepreneurs, as the existing platforms to enhance entrepreneurship are not adapted to their needs and specificities. The lack of time to dedicate to a Fashion Design start-up was clearly stated as a major issue among this group, as well as the lack of financial incentives and solutions built for such specific ventures. The profile of a successful Fashion Design Entrepreneur was also clearly evidenced in the results, as the qualities were described to be their innovative intuition, as well as their networking qualities and respect of the environment in their creative process, in order to create new products and solutions that can bring value to the Textile and Apparel Industry. Conclusions As the primary objective of this investigation was to comprehend entrepreneurship as a potential solution for young fashion designers, entrepreneurship education was also approached in the higher education environment, to contextualize the skills and knowledge gained by emerging fashion designers during their training. This study shed a light on entrepreneurship in the Fashion Industry and the struggles felt by many Fashion Design Entrepreneurs in Portugal and abroad. There is an opportunity to create fashion design courses more driven to entrepreneurship, as there is a need for entrepreneurs in the fashion industry, creating their own projects and businesses and generating innovative products, working systems, and research methods. Fashion Design Entrepreneurs would also be great asset inside companies, as their vision of the industry and their ability to transform a problem into an opportunity to create something new is undeniable. This study has established the need for incentives and platforms specially directed to fashion design ventures, as general associations for entrepreneurs cannot always help the specificities experienced in the Fashion Industry. Acknowledgements We would like to thank Madalena Pereira and Maria José Madeira for their contribution in this study, as well as the FibenTech Research Unit for the organization of this event. References [1] E. Felismino, Têxtil: um setor que anda mais depressa do que o país (2017) Economia Online, Lisbon, Retrieved from [2] Portugal Têxtil: Uma nova imagem para a ITV, March 21 st, Retrieved from: com/uma-nova-imagem-para-a-itv/. [3] Estatísticas do Concurso Nacional de Acesso de 2010: comparação por curso (2010). Retrieved from dges.mctes.pt/guias/pdfs/statcol/2010/statscurso10.pdf [4] Estatísticas do Concurso Nacional de Acesso de 2016: comparação por curso. (2016). Lisbon. Retrieved from rso16.pdf [5] European Commission, Entrepreneurship in higher education, especially within non-business studies (2008) Final Report of the Expert Group, Retrieved from: q=intitle:entrepreneurship+in+higher+education+,+especi ally+within+non-business+studies#0%5cnhttp://europa. eu.int/comm/enterprise/entrepreneurship/support_measure s/index.htm [6] D. Agis, P. Vaz, A.P. Dinis, Plano estratégico têxtil 2020: projetar o desenvolvimento da fileira têxtil e vestuário até 2020 (2014) [E-book]. ATP-Associac a o Te xtil e Vestua rio de Portugal. [7] E. Mwasalwiba, Entrepreneurship education: a review of its objectives, teaching methods, and impact indicators (2012) Education + Training, 40, pp [8] European Commission, ENTREPRENEURSHIP 2020 ACTION PLAN Reigniting the entrepreneurial spirit in Europe. COM (2012) 795 final. Retrieved from DC0795&from=EN 33

44 [9] D.J. Kelley, S. Singer, M. Herrington, Global Entrepreneurship Monitor 2015/2016 (2016) Global Report, Retrieved from: [10] Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (2017) Global Report 2016/2017. [11] M. Franco, H. Haase, S. Correia, Exploring Factors in the Success of Creative Incubators: a Cultural Entrepreneurship Perspective (2015) Journal of the Knowledge Economy [12] R. Bogdan, S. Biklen, Investigação Qualitativa em Educação (1994) Colecção Ciências da Educação. Porto: Porto Editora. [13] D.L. Morgan, Paradigms Lost and Pragmatism Regained: Methodological Implications of Combining Qualitative and Quantitative Methods (2007) Journal of Mixed Methods Research, 1, pp [14] C.P. Coutinho, Metodologia de investigação em ciências sociais humanas: teoria e prática (2015) Coimbra: Ed. Almedina. 34

45 Studies on the adsorption kinetics of azo dyes L.Canelo, R. Oliveira, C. Louro, I.C. Gonçalves, A. M. Marques, A. Lopes, I. Ferra University of Beira Interior, Chemistry Department, R. Marquês D Avila e Bolama, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The present work is focused on the adsorption of azo dyes onto agro-industrial residues. Kinetic studies on adsorption of dyes Acid Orange 7 (AO7) and Reactive Orange 16 (RO16) onto grape pomace (GP) and spent brewery grains (SBG) were performed in batch mode operation. A pseudo first order model was selected to fit to the experimental data. The influence of the initial dye concentration ( mg/l) and temperature (20ºC and 37ºC) on kinetic constant rate was assessed. A notable instantaneous adsorption process appears to occur in the first minutes of contact time between the adsorbent and the dye. The estimated equilibrium concentration, q e, tends to increase with increasing the initial dye concentration, being the pseudo-equilibrium condition reached within a relative short period of time. The rate constant seems to be independent of the initial dye concentration and clearly increases as the temperature rises. Introduction Integrated pollution management has been exhaustively investigated in last decades to protect the ecosystems and save resources. Among the several industries that significantly contribute to the production of residues are the textile and agro-industrial, that constitute primordial sectors of the Portuguese economy. Considering the nowadays economic context in which the business financial support of the enterprises depends on the level of environmental protection, it is of upmost importance to implement valorization strategies for the treatment of the produced residues. As be known dyes are natural and anthropogenic compounds that are in general hardly degraded by biological means. These compounds are widely used by textile industries (dyeing bath step) and depending on the dyeing conditions different type of dyes and auxiliaries are present in the discharged effluent (Asgher, 2012). Some types of dyes are also used by the agro-industrial sector. Azo dyes include acid direct and reactive dyes and the removal of these colored compounds from the produced wastewater could be done by adsorption mechanisms using solid residues from agriculture and industry as supports. Reactive dyes are in general in high concentrations due to their high solubility in water and to undergo hydrolysis of some functional groups in dyeing bath operations. Therefore, are poor removed by conventional technologies. Adsorption of dyes is related with the system conditions (ph, temperature, and dye concentration) and the type of cellulosic adsorbent selected (interaction solute-sorbent as van der wall forces or hydrogen bonds among other interactions), which determines the adsorption efficiency. Some types of dyes are poor removed, and the type of functional groups and structure of the dye molecule could also influence the adsorption (Detroy and Hesseltine,1978; Silva, 2003; Grini, 2005; Hassan and Carr, 2018). In general, it can be considered that the adsorption efficiency of dyes present in industrial effluents are difficult to be predicted. Thus, a possible integration of adsorption and biological processes could be an alternative solution for the treatment of industrial effluents in tandem with the degradation of lignocellulosic supports, for instance in anaerobic systems. As a first phase of the organic pollutants removal, adsorption of azo dyes in lignocellulosic supports is investigated in the present work. Particularly, kinetic studies on the adsorption of Reactive Orange 16 (RO 16) and Acid Orange 7 (AO 7) dyes onto grape pomace (GP) and spent brewery grains (SBG) were carried out at two temperatures (20ºC and 37ºC) for different initial dye concentration ( mg/l). Materials and Methods Raw material Grape pomace, GP, and Spent Brewery Grains, SBG, were used in the experiments as biosorbents. Before performing experiments, the residues were dried, and the grape pomace was also milled and sieved. Particles retained in sieving open sizes of 0.42mm were chosen for adsorption studies. GP and SBG contain in their composition ashes, lignin, cellulose, hemicellulose, phenols and protein. Raw material was gently supplied by industries located in Central Region of Portugal. Feeding solution Azo dyes Reactive Orange 16 (RO16) and Acid Orange 7 (AO 7) were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (Germany). Pre-hydrolysed dye RO 16 and the dye AO 7 in concentrations ranging from 20 to 100 mg/l were added to a buffer phosphate solution (1.28 g Na 2HPO 4 /L and 0.42 g NaH 2PO 4/L) and used in the essays. Analyses UV-visible absorption spectra were run in a Helios Alpha spectrophotometer (Unicam, UK). Colour was measured at the maximum visible absorbance wavelength of the dyes RO 16 (401 nm) and AO 7 (482 nm). Absorbance at this wavelength was correlated with dye concentration and used to quantify the colour removal. As blank a freedye buffer solution was used. Total solids (TS), total volatile solids (TVS), Kjeldahl Nitrogen (TKN) and ph in liquid samples were determined according to standard procedures (APHA, 2005). 35

46 Adsorption experiments Adsorption tests were carried out in batch mode, in bottles of 100 ml capacity at 20 2ºC and 37 2ºC with magnetic stirring. GP and SBG in a mass/volume percentage of 1, 1.25 and 5% were used for the tests. Both dried grape pomace and spent brewery grains have a high content of volatile solids, % and 93.6%, respectively (Table 1). Samples were collected and monitored throughout the time (0-240min). GP and SBG were added to flasks into which 50 ml of dye model solution was then poured. Experiments with dye-free solutions were also run and used as blank. Tests were performed in duplicate. the model fits quite well to the experimental data (Figure 1 and Table 2). The pseudo first order kinetic constant shows to be independent of the initial dye concentration, for the same system conditions (Figure 2). The initial adsorption rate tends to a limit value and slow for high initial dye concentrations indicating that the adsorption capacity is being reached. The adsorption of the dye AO 7 into GP follows the same type of behaviour. 3 2 RO 16 SBG - 37ºC 20 mg/l exp 20 mg/l model 60 mg/l exp 60 mg/l model 100 mg/l exp 100 mg/l model Table 1 Grape pomace characterization Parameter Concentration Protein (g/l) 110 ±10 Kjeldahl Nitrogen 17 ±2 (mg N -NH /L) 3 TS (g/g) 0.88 ±0.05 TVS (g/g) 0.87±0.05 q (mg/g) ,5 1 1,5 2 t(h) Studies on the adsorption kinetics Adsorption rate has been widely investigated to understand the mechanisms associated to the solutesorbent interactions and to determine the rate-limiting step of the process. Both the adsorption capacity and the required contact time to reach a high removal efficiency of the solute, are determining parameters that should be considered in the selection of the system. To assess how rates are dependent on the type of the sorbent and are a function of the sorption capacity, a pseudo-first order model was applied to the experimental data obtained in the adsorption (Ho et al., 2000). The integrated equation of the kinetic model applying limit conditions is as follows: q = q (1-exp -k.t ) (1) m where q and q m are the concentration of solute adsorbed in the solid phase at time t and equilibrium, respectively, and k is the rate constant. Results and Discussion Effect of the initial dye content Studies on adsorption of reactive dye RO 16 on spent brewery grains (SBG) at 37 ±2 ºC show that a significant amount of dye is adsorbed in the first minutes of contact time (car 30 min) quickly reaching a pseudo-equilibrium condition. The experimental time required for the steady state condition is close to the one predicted by the purposed model applied to follow the adsorption rate. The equilibrium concentration, q e, tends to increase with increasing the initial dye concentration and a linear correlation is observed. In general, it can be assumed that Figure 1 Effect of the initial dye concentration (RO 16) on adsorption rate (SBG); pointed lines correspond to the 95% confidence intervals around the fit. k (h-1) ºC 37 ºC C0 mg/l Figure 2 Estimated adsorption rate constant (RO 16 SBG) for several initial dye concentrations Table 2 Regression determination coefficients C 0 (mg/l) R 2 0,9464 0,9344 0,8566 Effect of the temperature The effect of the temperature on the adsorption of the dye RO 16 on SBG is displayed in Figures 2 and 3. The amount of dye adsorbed in the first 10 min is greater at a temperature of 37ºC than at 20ºC, but the efficiency of the dye removal is higher at 20ºC (Figure 3). For initial dye concentration of 60 mg/l the value of the kinetic constant at 37ºC is almost four times greater than that obtained at 20ºC, however the equilibrium concentration in solid phase, q e, is higher at 20ºC (approximately 1.09 mg/g at 20ºC and 0.77 mg/g at 37ºC). 36

47 3 2 RO 16 SBG 60 mg/l exp 37ºC 60 mg/l model 37ºC 60 mg/l exp 20ºC 60 mg/l model 20ºC efficiency by altering the system operating conditions and the preparation of the supports ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors express their gratitude to the FibEnTech, QREN and FCT for the financial support. q (mg/g) ,5 1 1,5 2 2,5 t(h) Figure 3 Effect of the temperature on adsorption rate (SBG) of the dye (RO 16); pointed lines correspond to the 95% confidence intervals around the fit. Effect of the type of adsorbent The type of lignocellulosic support doesn t seem to significantly influence the adsorption capacity in systems operating under the same conditions (Figure 3). This could be explained for instance by the interactions between the dye groups such as -OH and SO 3Na and the type of support, hence both have a lignocellulosic composition. References 1. APHA AWWA, 2005, Standard Methods for the Examination of Water and Wastewater, 21 th edition., American Public Health Association/ American Water Works Association/Water Environment Federation, Washington DC, USA. 2. Asgher, M. (2012). Biosorption of Reactive Dyes: A Review. Water Air Soil Pollution, 223: Detroy R.W., Hesseltine C.W. (1978). Availability and utilization of agricultural and agro industrial wastes. Process biochemistry. 13 (9): Grini, G. (2006). Non-conventional low-cost adsorbents for dye removal: A review, Bioresource Technology, 97: Hassan, M.M. and Carr, C. M. (2018). A critical review on recent advancement of the removal of reactive dyes from dyehouse effluents by ion-exchange adsorbents. Chemosphere, 209: Ho,Y.S., Ng, J.C., and McKay, G. (2000). Kinetics of pollutant sorption by biosorbents: review. Separation and Purification Methods, 29 (2): Silva, L.M.L.R. (2003).Caracterização dos subprodutos da vinificação, Millenium online (Revista do ISPV), 28: Silva, J.P., Sousa, S., Rodrigues, J. Antunes, H., Porter, J.J., Gonçalves, I., Ferreira-Dias, S. (2004). Adsorption of acid Orange 7 dye in aqueous solutions by spent brewery grains. Separation and Purification Technology, 40: ,5 2 RO 16 GP model RO16 SBG model RO16 GP exp RO 16 SBG exp q(mg/g) 1,5 1 0,5 0-0,5 0 0,5 1 1,5 t(h) Figure 3 Effect of the type of adsorbent (GP and SBG) on adsorption of the dye RO 16 Kinetic data on bio adsorption of xenobiotics could be a useful tool to be applied in integrated adsorption/biodegradation technologies to improve the degradation efficiency in tandem with the biogas yield in anaerobic processes. Conclusions Solid residues from agro-industries could be used as adsorbents of dyes. The pseudo first order kinetic model could be applied to explain the adsorption rate. The data collected should be used to enhance the adsorption 37

48 Presentation of InPaCTus R&D Project: Eucalyptus globulus Pulp Suitability for Tissue Paper F.P. Morais 1, J.M.R. Curto 1,2, M.E.C.C. Amaral 1 1 FibEnTech - Fiber Materials and Environmental Technologies, Department of Chemistry, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 CIEPQPF - Chemical Process Engineering and Forest Products Research Centre, Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal Abstract The objective is to present an overview of the InPaCTus R&D project Innovative Products and Technologies from Eucalyptus in the field of "Eucalyptus globulus pulp suitability for tissue paper from FibEnTech with The Navigator Company. The project aims to develop research activities in the exploration of the suitability of Eucalyptus globulus pulp for tissue paper, including the development of a computational platform for raw material management and optimization of the process for each tissue paper. Tissue papers include a wide range of products with final end use properties according to its purpose and consumer expectations. Therefore, it is fundamental to study the main characteristics of each tissue paper and relate them with pulp and fiber properties. Depending on the type of end product, the most appreciated characteristics will vary from one another, and a computational approach is proposed to stablish the relations between the fibers, the structure and the paper properties. The results of this project include a morphological and chemical characterization of hardwood and softwood pulp fibers. The goal is to have an impact on softness and water absorption using an optimized Eucalyptus globulus furnish, without impairing wet end strength. The analysis of several properties of Eucalyptus globulus pulps will make it possible to predict and optimize the potential of these pulps for different tissue products. Introduction Tissue papers, because of their multiplicity, profitability, cleanliness and convenience, play an important role in society. In the last decades, the tissue paper industry has shown a great growth, which can be explained by the increase in the consumption of hygiene and cosmetic products in the developing countries. The growth of the market has led to an increase in the number of producers, making it increasingly competitive. The growth in the consumption of tissue products worldwide is related to the increase in living standards and personal hygiene. Tissue Papers Tissue products have different properties depending on the use of raw material and are used for cleaning, hygiene and cosmetic purposes, including facial tissue, bath tissue, paper towels, napkins, diapers, among others [1,2]. These products have important characteristics that meet consumer demand such as rapid absorption of liquids or the ability to absorb many liquids [4]. The dry defibrillation process results in a chemical fluff pulp incorporated to produce such products [5]. This process exhibits an end product with limited dry compression and water retention [6]. This limitation is important for the production of tissue papers because it causes an increase in the energy demand necessary to density the sheet [5], which allows a structural resistance and high absorption and softness. The main properties of tissue products include strength, water absorption, softness, thickness and apparent specific volume (bulk). In order to achieve all these properties, rigid fibers with a low degree of collapsibility are necessary to give resistance to the material, narrow fibers, low hemicelluloses content and relative refining resistance, low fiber bonding, always maintaining a porous matrix [7]. The potential to combine the distinctiveness of tissue properties with the increased relative bonded area properties of multi scale cellulosic material, such as micro and nanocellulose fibers, will be investigated. For different tissue products, the priority of tissue properties is ranked differently by the consumer. For example, the most desired property for facial tissue is the softness, while water absorbency becomes the most important for the paper towels [8]. The quality of the tissue product is reflected in tissue properties, and the industry has established reliable testing methods for various tissue properties. Cellulose is one of the most abundant polymers available on Earth. An interest in the development of new cellulosic materials has been renewed, since wood is the main source of cellulose and presents advantages as a renewable, sustainable and economic resource [9]. One of the most important fiber supplier s species in the pulp industry is Eucalyptus globulus. Eucalyptus fibers are important raw materials for the production of cellulose based materials and Tissue Papers and this Project will be dedicated to optimizing and achieve new products and functionalities. [10]. In a very summarized for, papermaking process includes fibrous material preparation, sheet forming, pressing, drying and sizing. The tissue paper process is subject to research and development to meet growing economic and ecological requirements [11]. The Navigator Company is responsible for 3% of total exports from Portugal, accounting for around 1% of national GDP) [12]. Currently, the company produces various types of tissue products for both domestic and industrial use, with about ha gestation of forest space and 6 million per year of Eucalyptus globulus for reforestation, in Portugal. The Navigator Company has a 38

49 strategy in the tissue sector, based on direct integration of high-quality pulp so as to benefit from the intrinsic qualities of eucalyptus. The goal is to improve and consolidate its position in the Iberian tissue market. Therefore, the InPaCTus R&D project - Innovative Products and Technologies from Eucalyptus for tissue paper appears will contribute to this purpose. The company is promoting the competitiveness and differentiation of tissue products with short fiber, leading to the reinforcement of R&D activity, acquisition of new skills and reinforcement of partnerships with industry. The RAIZ - Forest and Paper Research Institute, from The Navigator Company, is Research facility available to the Project [12,13]. Being the research institute of The Navigator Company, it focuses the research in the field of tissue products with a view to the development and improvement of the process and product. Tissue Project 1 During the project first step the objective will be to characterize the different Eucalyptus globulus fibers and relate the morphological properties of the fibers and pulps with paper properties [14]. Followed by the study of the effect of the chemical composition of the fibers and pulps on paper properties [15,16]. We will also study the effect of the process unit operations on the final properties for all the types of tissue papers. The work will be concluded using a computational approach for process optimization and prediction of each tissue paper final end use properties (softness, absorption, strength, etc). To related input fiber and pulp properties with output tissue paper parameters, we are going to use several computational tools, like regression trees [17-22]. Computational Optimization Fig. 1. Tissue products, such as toilet paper, are produced using a 3D structure made from cellulose fibers, which can be optimized and modeled through computational studies, for a final prediction of each tissue paper properties. Conclusions Tissue paper is main subject of the R&D Project presented in this paper. The analysis of several properties of Eucalyptus globulus fibers and pulps will make it possible to predict the potential of different fibers for different tissue products. From this research, it is expected to maximize and optimize the use of eucalyptus fibers in order to be able to produce tissue paper with high content of eucalyptus fibers. Acknowledgements This work was carried out under the Project inpactus innovative products and technologies from eucalyptus, Project N.º funded by Portugal 2020 through European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) in the frame of COMPETE 2020 nº246/axis II/2017. References [1] C. Foelkel, Papéis Tissue para Finalidades Sanitárias Contendo Fibras Celulósicas de Pinus, PinusLetter, 45 (2015) [2] A. Milanez, Antena Tecnológica - Tissue Paper, Technical Report, P&D-306/05 (2005). [4] T.W. Osborn, The Procter & Gamble Company, assignee. Process for making absorbent tissue paper with high wet strength and low dry strength. United States Patent US Dec 30. [5] J. Gigag, M. Fiserova, Influence of pulp refining on tissue paper properties, TAPPI J. 7 (2008) [6] M.G. Hoskins, Georgia-Pacific Corporation, assignee. Fluffed pulp and method of production. United States Patent US Jan 2 [7]. C.E.B. Foelkel, Qualidade da madeira de eucalipto para atendimento das exigências do mercado de celulose e papel, in: IUFRO Conference on Silviculture and Improvement Eucalyptus, Salvador (1997) [8] C. Poffenberger, Y. Deac, W. Zeman, Novel hydrophilic softeners for tissue and towel applications, in: Proceeding of TAPPI Papermakers Conference and Trade fair (2000) [9] M.H. Mousa, Y. Dong, I.J. Davies, Recent Advances in Bionanocomposites: Preparation, Properties, and Applications, Int. J. Polym. Mater. Po. 65 (2016) [10] D.M. Neiva, S. Araújo, J. Gominho, A.C. Carneiro, H. Pereira, Potential of Eucalyptus globulus industrial bark as a biorefinery feedstock: Chemical and fuel characterization, Ind. Crop. Prod. 123 (2018) [11] H. Holik, Handbook of Paper and Board, first ed., Weinheim: WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co., [12] The Navigator Company. Information on ria. [13] RAIZ - Instituto de Investigação da Floresta e do Papel». Information on [14] A. Santos, M.E. Amaral, A. Vaz, O. Anjos, R.M.S. Simões, Effect of Eucalyptus globulus wood density on papermaking potential, Tappi Journal, 7 (2008), [15] N. Gil, C. Gil, M.E. Amaral, A.P. Costa, A.P. Duarte, Using enzymes to improve the refining of a bleached Eucalyptus globulus kraft pulp, Biochemical Engineering Journal, 46 (2009) [16] N. Gil, S. Ferreira, M.E. Amaral, F. Domingues, A.P. Duarte, The influence of dilute acid pretreatment conditions on the enzymatic hydrolysis of Erica spp. for bioethanol production, Industrial Crops and Products, 32 (2010) [17] E.L.T. Conceição, J.M.R. Curto, R.M.S. Simões, A.T.G. Portugal, Coding a Simulation Model of the 3D 39

50 Structure of Paper, in: Barneva RP et al. (eds) Computational Modeling of Objects Represented in Images, Springer- Verlag Berlin Heidelberg (2010) [18] J.M.R. Curto, A.O. Mendes, E.L.T. Conceição, A.T.G. Portugal, P.T. Fiadeiro, A.M.M. Ramos, R.M.S. Simões, M.J. Santos Silva, Development of an Innovative 3D Simulator for Structured Polymeric Fibrous Materials and Liquid Droplets, in: Advanced Structured Materials - Mechanical and Materials Engineering of Modern Structure and Component Design (2015) [19] J.M.R. Curto, A.P. Costa, M.E. Amaral, J.S. Ferreira, V.L.D. Costa, N.V. Martins, P.E.M. Videria, F.P. Morais, A.R.L. Sousa, E.L.T. Conceição, A.T.G. Portugal, R.M.S. Simões, M.J. Santos Silva, The importance of optimizing the 3D structure when developing cellulosic materials for medical applications: the case of drug delivery systems (DDS), in: Procedings of the XXIII TECNICELPA International Florest, Pulp and Paper Conference, October 12-14, Porto, Portugal (2016). [20] J.M.R. Curto, E.L.T. Conceição, A.T.G. Portugal, R.M.S. Simões, The Fibre Coarseness and Collapsibility Influence on a Three Dimension Paper Model, in: Proc. 63rd Appita Annual Conference and Exhibition, Melbourne April, Australia (2009) [21] J.M.R. Curto, E.L.T. Conceição, A.T.G. Portugal, R.M.S. Simões, The Fibre Properties Influence on a Three Dimensional Paper Model, in: Proc. XX1 Tecnicelpa Conference and Exhibition / VI CIADICYP 2010, Oral presentation, Lisbon (2010). [22] J.M.R. Curto, E.L.T. Conceição, A.T.G. Portugal, R.M.S. Simões, Three Dimensional Modelling of Fibrous Materials and Experimental Validation, Materialwiss Werkst, 42 (2011)

51 Production and characterization of nanocellulose-based bioactive films by incorporation of an essential oil and its main compound V. Lopes, S. Sousa, A.P. Costa, R. Simões, M.E. Amaral FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract In the present study, nanocellulose was produced to prepare nanocellulose films incorporating clove essential oil (CLO) or its main eugenol compound (EU), for potential application as bioactive packaging. Bleached eucalyptus pulps, one from an acid process (sulphite) and the other from an alkali process (Kraft), were used to obtain nanocellulose by using a chemical treatment (NaClO/NaBr/TEMPO oxidation) followed by and a highshear mechanical treatment. The pulps were characterized in terms of pulp viscosity and carboxylic groups content, before and after TEMPO-oxidation treatment. These pulps were submitted to different conditions in the homogenizer equipment and the resulting samples, nanocelluloses gels, are named NF for the sulphite pulp, and AK1 and AK2 for the kraft pulp. Nanocelluloses characterization resulted in a yield of fibrillation of 96% as the highest value in AK1, 90% for Ak2 and 88% for NF. The zeta potential measurements were done showing that NF was the most oxidized pulp with a value of mv with Ak1 with mv and Ak2 with mv all at ph 6. Blends of nanocellulose and CLO or EU were used to produce films by using the casting method. FTIR spectra of the produced films showed the characteristic bands of the essential oils corroborating their presence on the samples. SEM analysis in surface and cross section of the films with and without CLO and EU compounds were done in order to study the nanostructured morphology. Some mechanical properties and water vapour transmission rate (WVTR) were also measured in the films. For tensile strength and elastic modulus AK1 with EU appears to be the best with ± N/m and ± MPa, respectively. For elongation at break, it was observed that NF with CLO achieves the highest value, i.e., 5.21±0.59 %. The NF with EU exhibited the highest value of WVTR, while AK1 with EU shows the lowest value 41

52 Reactivity of hydrotalcites C. Lopes 1, J. Rodilla 1, D. Díez 2, I. Tobal 2, A. Martín 2 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Faculty of Chemistry Sciences, University of Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain Abstract Hydrotalcites are double layered hydroxides that have both basic and acid parts and show good catalytic capacity. Additionally, gold nanoparticles possess unique catalytic propriety, catalysing reactions like alkene and nitro compounds hydrogenation, oxidation of OH groups and epoxidations. Putting the two together seems to be a compromising catalyst. Both the size of the catalyst and the nature of the support influence the catalytic activity, being that the perfect catalytic size is between 3 and 5 nm. Monoterpenes are very important compounds not only because they are constituents of perfumes and composition of aromas but also serve as chiral building blocks in the synthesis of compounds. Examples of monoterpenes used as building blocks are Carvone and Citral. Carvone is a monoterpene that has the perfect structure for the synthesis of new chiral compounds for, among other uses, the industry. Several chiral compounds have already been synthesized from the carvone, and thus a "building block". Citral, a mixture of Geranial and Neral, is a key building block for flavors and fragrances, but also for fine chemicals like vitamins. Aiming to prove that Hydrotalcite-Supported Gold have catalytic power on the synthesis of new compounds, we synthetized Hydrotalcites, deposite with different content of gold (0, 1 and 5%) and used in Carvone and Citral epoxidation reactions (in acid and basic medium) and carvone halogenation. From that reactions we obtained some compounds, among them a new compound of interest related to the Bromo ester of carvone, but the Hydrotalcites had no catalytic effect and in some reactions Hydrotalcite seems to block the reaction. After that, new Hydrotalcites (doped and not doped) were made at different conditions in an attempt to prove the catalytic power in the synthesis of chiral compounds. The catalysts were then synthesized and tested for carvone epoxidation in basic and acid condition. At the present time the reaction products are being analyzed by 1 H and 13 C NMR. 42

53 Rheological behavior and production of high performance yarns from nano/microfibrillated vegetal cellulose V.L.D. Costa, A.P. Costa, R.M.S. Simões FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Nano/ microfibrillated cellulose (NFC/MFC), is a fibrillar material with lateral dimensions usually under 100 nm, which is isolated from wood cell walls by mechanical fibrillation. The result is a gel-like aqueous suspension with a typical solid content around 1 wt.%, which has industrially desirable characteristics such as renewability and biodegradability, high aspect ratio, crystallinity degree and mechanical resistance, and an aptitude to set up strong entangled transparent networks. Recently, many structures made from NFC/MFC have been built for several applications, namely the production of high mechanical performance yarns from NFC/MFC suspensions. The manipulation and application of NFC/MFC suspensions, and hence the production of the yarns, requires the study of their rheological behavior. Thus, the objectives of this investigation were to study the effect of ionic strength on flow and dynamic rheological behavior of two different NFC/MFC suspensions and the production of high mechanical performance yarns from NFC/MFC suspensions through wet spinning. At an early stage, a commercial MFC aqueous suspension was used. Morphological characterization of the suspension was performed through SEM and TEM imaging. The cellulose degree of polymerization (DP) and the total acidic group content were determined according to the appropriate standards. The MFC suspension was adjusted to a solid content of 1.3 wt% and NaCl was added in concentrations from 0 to 1M. The rheological behavior of all newly made suspensions was tested. The rheological measurements were carried out at 22ºC and 50% relative humidity using a stress-controlled rheometer equipped with a cone and plate geometry with roughened surfaces. Controlled rate flow curves were conducted with a shear rate ( ) in the range of 0.03 to 1000 s -1 for 180 seconds. Shear stress (τ) and viscosity (η) were analyzed. The viscoelastic behavior was studied through oscillatory stress sweeps performed with a τ in the range of to Pa and a frequency of 1.00 Hz. The dynamic moduli (G*) were analyzed. The controlled rate flow curves show that both τ and η increase drastically when the NaCl concentration changes from 0.05 M to 0.1 M, while increasing the NaCl concentration above 0.1 M until 1 M has only a marginal effect. The oscillatory essays showed that the higher the NaCl concentration, the higher the G* are. An addition of 0.1 M of NaCl increased the G* by a huge amount, when compared to the aqueous suspensions, from 150 Pa to 4000 Pa. At a later stage, two NFC suspensions were produced from commercial bleached sulfite and kraft pulps by homogenization. The suspensions were characterized through SEM and TEM. A wet spinning system with a NaCl solution as a coagulation bath and ethanol as a fixing bath was set up. Yarns were spun from the suspensions with concentrations between 2.5 and 3.22 wt.%, with flow rates from 800 to 3000 μl/min. The yarns were air dried at room conditions and some were afterwards submerged in a water bath. The yarns were mechanically tested at standard conditions. The results showed that an increase in the spinning rate improved the resistance parameters of the yarns, which might indicate that some level of fibril alignment is being achieved. An additional 5-minute water bath increased the mechanical performance of the yarns, mainly in the tensile strength: for a 3 wt.% NFC suspension, at the same flow rate, the tensile strength increased from to MPa and the elastic modulus increased from 9.1 to 11.7 GPa. Despite some improvements of the yarns mechanical properties have been achieved, nanofibril morphology, hydrodynamic nanofibril alignment, additional treatment and drying conditions are still being optimized. 43

54 Extraction conditions and characterization of lignin isolated from cherry tree residues M. Tenreiro 1,2, R.E. Boto 1,2, L. Breitenfeld 1, M.E. Amaral 2,3, A.P. Duarte 1 1 CICS- Health Sciences Research Centre, Faculty of Health Science, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract In this study, cherry residues from the branches of Prunus avium burlat cultivars were milled and screened to obtain a suitable particle size. The obtained sample was evaluated in terms of its initial chemical composition and was subjected to different extraction conditions in order to isolate the lignin. The chemical composition was analyzed using TAPPI standards methods for Klason lignin, ash content and extractable content. Acid chlorite method was used for the determination of holocellulose, as described by Browning (1967). Thus, the original sample contains 74.87% holocellulose, 26.64% Klason lignin, 7.67% extractable content and 1.53% ash content. Acid extractions using hot water followed by acetic acid and formic acid in a microwave-assisted process. Alkaline extractions using two concentrations of sodium hydroxide (0.4 M and 0.7 M). The resulting samples were analyzed in terms of extraction yield and characterized by Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR), as well as by total phenolic content (determined through Folin-Ciocalteu colorimetric method in gallic acid equivalents). The antioxidant activity was obtained by DPPH method using trolox as a positive control and reported as IC50 and antioxidant activity index (IAA). The most promising samples were submitted to cytotoxicity assays. The extractions yields are between 5 and 18%, being the best method the one using formic acid in the microwave. The highest concentrations of phenolic compounds were found with acetic acid and formic acid extractions ( and mg of gallic acid equivalents/g dry matter (mg GAE/g)), while alkaline extractions, 0.4 M and 0.7 M, presented the lowest (130 and mg GAE/g). The value of IAA showed that the lignin extracted in acid conditions displayed very high values, i.e., 2.48 for acetic acid and 2.29 for formic acid, while the samples extracted with 0.4 M and 0.7 M sodium hydroxide exhibited moderate activity, i.e., 0.72 and 0.74, respectively. Cytotoxicity was evaluated by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2- yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test and protein determination by the bicinchoninic acid method (BCA). The effect of lignin extracts in NHDF (Normal Human Derma Fibroblast) cells line have no toxic effect on these cells. The results were particularly positive for lignin extract (0.4 M NaOH) at the lowest concentration (0.5 μg/ml) as it increased cell proliferation. However, the results for the other lignin extracts were also positive, since no cell proliferation occurred, reducing the probability of occurrence of mutations, which is explained by the absence of cell death. 44

55 Eugenol loaded into electrospun PCL/PVA/Chitosan nanofibrous mats by emulsion electrospinning to development of innovative wound dressings C. Mouro 1, M. Simões 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Department of Chemical Engineering (LEPABE), Universidade do Porto, Porto, Portugal Abstract Nowadays, a wide a range of advanced wound dressings, such as films, hydrogels, hydrocolloids and micro to nanofibers meshes have been fabricated from the natural and synthetic biomaterials and selected based on the type of wounds 1. Among them, nanofibers have been regarded as one of the most efficient wound dressing materials, especially those produced by electrospinning, due to their effective performance in the tissue regeneration and scarfree repair 1,2. Electrospun nanofibrous mats mimic the characteristics of the skin s extracellular matrix (ECM), once these materials display a high surface area, high porosity and interconnected pores, which provide a suitable microenvironment for cell attachment, growth and differentiation, as well as angiogenesis and collagen synthesis 1. Moreover, electrospun nanofibers enhances homeostasis and allows proper exchange of gases, water and nutrients, as well as an effective exudate absorption, maintaining a moist environment at the wound site 1,2. In addition, wounds are particularly susceptible to infections by pathogenic microorganisms, which results in delayed healing and contribute to impaired wound repair 1,3. Thus, to prevent and treat wound infections, researchers are currently developing electrospun nanofibrous mats loaded with bioactive or therapeutic agents, especially natural and traditional agents, including medicinal plant extracts and its derivatives, such as essential oils, for controlling the release and enhancing the wound healing process 1,2. In this context, electrospun Polycaprolactone (PCL) / Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)/ Chitosan (CH) nanofibrous mats loaded with Eugenol (EUG) were fabricated by nanospider technology, a modified electrospinning technique. The EUG, a phenol essential oil extracted from cloves, known for its therapeutic properties, including anesthesic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic activities was successfully loaded via electrospinning from either water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-inwater (O/W) emulsions 4. The emulsion electrospinning was selected in order to enhance the solubility of the different components of the blend, and preserve EUG's structural integrity and bioactivity 1. The results showed that electrospun PCL/PVA/CH nanofibrous mats loaded with EUG were able to inhibit the growth of Shaphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, using a small amount of the essential oil (5% owf). Therefore, this strategy showed to be a promising approach to prevent microbial infection and accelerate wound healing process. References [1] Y. Pilehvar-Soltanahmadi, M. Dadashpour, A. Mohajeri, A. Fattahi, R. Sheervalilou, N. Zarghami, An Overview on Application of Natural Substances Incorporated with Electrospun Nanofibrous Scaffolds to Development of Innovative Wound Dressings, Mini-Rev. Med. Chem. 18 (2018) [2] W. Zhang, S. Ronca, E. Mele, Electrospun Nanofibres Containing Antimicrobial Plant Extracts, Nanomaterials 7 (2017) [3] A.J. Hassiba, M.E.E. Zowalaty, G.K. Nasrallah, T.J. Webster, A.S. Luyt, A.M. Abdullah, A.A. Elzatahry, Review of recent research on biomedical applications of electrospun polymer nanofibers for improved wound healing, Nanomedicine 11 (2016). [4] M.R.C. Raja, V. Srinivasan, S. Selvaraj, S.K. Mahapatra, Versatile and Synergistic Potential of Eugenol: A Review, Pharm. Anal. Acta 6 (2015)

56 Layer-by-Layer deposition of bioactive polyelectrolytes with incorporation of antimicrobial agents as a new strategy to develop bioactive textiles A.P. Gomes 1,2 ; I.C. Gouveia 2 ; J.F. Mano 3,4 ; J.A. Queiroz 5 1 Optical Centre and Electron Microscopy Lab, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 FibEntech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 3B s Research Group, University of Minho 4 ICVS/3B s PT Government Associate Laboratory, Braga, Portugal 5 CICS-UBI Health Sciences Research Centre, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Polyelectrolyte multilayer coatings have become a new and general way to functionalize a variety of materials. Particularly, the Layer-by-Layer (LbL) method is a technique developed for coating on solid surfaces. The LbL technique presents a unique mean to construct surface coatings that can conform to a variety of biomaterial surfaces and serve as matrices enabling controlled delivery of bioactive molecules from surface. As the deposition process is achieved in aqueous medium, incorporation of active agents is possible since the coatings obtained by LbL are less densely packed and this is advantageous for diffusion through the coating. The coating is constructed by the alternate adsorption of oppositely charged polyelectrolytes at the surface of the material, easily obtained when it is dipped in polyelectrolyte solutions. A deposition cycle creates layer, and these cycles can be repeated as often as needed. The study aims to obtain novel bioactive textiles with potential application in wound-dressings. The biopolymers chosen for the functionalization of cotton (substrate), were chitosan (CH) and alginate (ALG). The multilayer coating of cotton with CH and ALG is constructed by the adsorption of CH and ALG with opposite charge on the surface of cotton substrates. The successive deposition of multilayers of CH and ALG was analyzed by three different techniques. Contact angle between a water droplet and the surface of the sample, cationic dye staining method and analysis by ATR-FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy with using Attenuated Total Reflection). These techniques showed that there was alternating deposition between CH and ALG and the presence of electrostatic bonds between the layers. In order to evaluate the antibacterial activity of the functionalized cotton, the Japanese standard JIS L 1902:2002 for the halo method (qualitative assay), and the absorption method (quantitative test) were assessed. These tests revealed an antibacterial effect on the functionalized cotton for both Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-negative bacteria (Klebsiella pneumoniae). A method was optimized for incorporation L-cysteine (Lcys) between the layers of CH and ALG deposited on cotton samples by the LbL, in order to obtain a better antimicrobial effect. Several strategies were used and the best results were obtained by the method where the ALG turns into a gel in the presence of calcium, since L-cys can be incorporated directly between the layers of CH and ALG without any covalent bond. Thus, the bioactive L-cys agent was immobilized without losing their bioactive characteristics. These new samples were analyzed for the antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae according to the previously used standard, and the results showed an increase in the antibacterial effect due to the presence of L-cys. This new coating method has the great advantage to able to select other types of bioactive agents without needing further optimization. In this way, L-Cys was replaced by antimicrobial peptides (AMPs). The reason for the use of AMPs is related with the continuous use of antibiotics which resulted in multiresistant bacterial strains all over the world. Consequently, there is an urgent need to search for alternatives for antibiotics. The AMPs are the new generation of antimicrobials and are obtained from plants and animals. Four AMPs of different features were used. The depth to which each AMPs is incorporated between the layers was determined by energy dispersive analysis of X- rays (Energy Dispersive X-ray EDS). Results showed all AMPs used have a higher antimicrobial effect when compared with previous samples (with and without L-Cys) for both microorganisms and are non-cytotoxic to normal human dermal fibroblasts at the Minimal Inhibitory Concentration. This confirms that this new functionalization approach of cotton coated with layers of CH and ALG by the LbL technique with incorporated AMPs leads to good antibacterial and cytotoxicity results, which make them suitable to be used as wound dressings. 46

57 The influence of FTS crystals on PEDOT conductivity P. Baptista 1, G. Soares 2, R. Simões 3 R. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Textile Engineering Department, Universidade do Minho, Guimarães, Portugal 3 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Since the first discovery of polymeric conductors in 1977 by Shikarawa, Heeger and MacDiarmid [1], the research area of "organic electronics" has grown dramatically. Electrically conductive or electro-active fibers are the key components of smart and interactive textiles, which could be used in medical, sports, energy, and military applications. The functionalization of high-performance textile with conjugated polymers can produce conductive fibers with better electro-mechanical properties, which is difficult with commonly used spinning techniques [2]. The synthesis of poly (3, 4 ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT) can be performed by various techniques, but concerning textile substrates, the main ones are the wet polymerization, also referred to as liquid phase polymerization, and the vapor phase polymerization (VPP). In both methods, the oxidative polymerization is the most common [3]. The VPP is one method that provides a convenient route to producing complex thin films of both soluble and insoluble conducting polymers, and nanocomposites thereof [4]. In the VPP method, fabrics are immersed in a liquid phase oxidant solution and then are exposed to the monomer in the vapor phase. The exposure of the samples to an atmosphere of monomer is performed in a reactor with controlled vacuum and temperature [3]. In particular, PEDOT prepared by VPP has been shown to be highly electrically conductive [4]. The final objective is to understand the behavior of the PEDOT coating on plain weave fabrics of polyester. To understand the mechanisms behind the PEDOT performance, in the present work we produced electrically conductive coatings of PEDOT on a glass with the vapor phase polymerization method, to investigate the effect of Iron(III) p-toluenesulfate hexahydrate (FTS) crystals dimension and crystallinity degree on PEDOT coating conductivity. To prepare the oxidant film, 468 microliters of FTS was put on the glass; then the samples were dried in the oven for 16 min at 60ºC. After drying, the samples were subjected to different cooling processes to room temperature. Finally, the EDOT monomer was polymerized in a reactor for 73 min at 90 C and the vacuum pressure of 160 mtorr. The crystal formation in the oxidant, FTS, has been observed under various cooling conditions. Faster cooling (-6ªC in the freezer during 3 hours) leds to the formation of smaller crystals, and a high resistivity 8741Ohm/sq; Slow cooling (cool until room temperature in the oven) leds to an amorphous structure and a lower resistivity, 1724Ohm/sq. The crystallized oxidant regions do not participate in the effective polymerization of EDOT and cause defects in the polymer film. In the most severe case, an absence of PEDOT formation is observed in regions previously occupied by the crystallized oxidant. Complete elimination of humidity is not a viable option, because it is useful in the polymerization process. References [1] A.J. Heeger, Nobel Lecture: Semiconducting and metallic polymers: The fourth generation of polymeric materials, Reviews of Modern Physics 73 (2001) [2] T. Bashir, M. Skrifvars, N.K. Persson, Surface modification of conductive PEDOT coated textile yarns with silicone resin, Materials Technology 26 (2011) [3] I.G. Trindade, J. Matos, J. Lucas, R. Miguel, M. Pereira, M.S. Silva, Synthesis of poly(3, 4-ethylenedioxythio phene) coating on textiles by the vapor phase polymerization method, Textile Research Journal 85 (2015) [4] R. Brooke, P. Cottis, P. Talemi, M. Fabretto, P. Murphy, D. Evans, Recent advances in the synthesis of conducting polymers from the vapour phase, Progress in Materials Science 86 (2017)

58 Upstream and downstream processing of microbial pigments and polymers L.F.A. Amorim 1, R. Fangueiro 2, I.C. Gouveia 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 Centre for Textile Science and Technology (2C2T), University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal Abstract Nowadays, the widespread use of synthetic dyes in food, pharmaceutical, textile and cosmetic industries raises concerns regarding the environmental impact and health issues, once adverse toxicological side effects have been reported over the years [1]. The consumers awareness demands more natural and sustainable alternatives, such as the microbial pigments. Microorganisms can be used to obtain high concentrations of natural pigments in shorter production times and besides, the biodegradability associated with the nontoxic and non-carcinogenic nature of natural pigments comprises desirable features to synthetic dyes replacement [2]. Microorganisms are also able to produce nontoxic and biodegradable biopolymers, such as Bacterial Cellulose [3] and Kefiran [4]. These microbial products can be recovered devoid of impurities and contaminants, without requiring intensive downstream processing. Therefore, the aim of this work is to produce new coloured materials from microbial pigments and exopolysaccharides, having microorganisms as unique source. Electrospinning technology has been considered the primary technique to produce nanofibers once it enables production of continuous polymer nanofibers from polymer solutions or melts in high electric fields, being a cost-effective, easy and versatile method that enables processing large quantities of polymer solution on continuous rounds, using a diverse range of solvents and polymers [5], being therefore a promising technique for the production of the proposed materials. Employing microorganisms for the production of pigments and biopolymers emerge as an alternative over synthetic materials with potential application on food industries, textiles, medical products, among others. characterization of kefiran electrospun nanofibers, Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 70 (2014) [5] L. Persano, A. Camposeo, C. Tekmen, D. Pisignano, Industrial upscaling of electrospinning and applications of polymer nanofibers: a review, Macromol. Mater. Eng. 298 (2013) References [1] K.A. Amin, H. Hameid, A.H. Elsttar, Effect of food azo dyes tartrazine and carmoisine on biochemical parameters related to renal, hepatic function and oxidative stress biomarkers in young male rats, Food Chem Toxicol. 48 (2010) [2] H.S. Tuli, P. Chaudhary, V. Beniwal, A.K. Sharma, Microbial pigments as natural color sources: current trends and future perspectives, J Food Sci Technol. 52 (2015) [3] S.M.A.S. Keshk, Cellulose Production and its Industrial Applications, J Bioprocess Biotech. 4 (2014). [4] S.S. Esnaashari, S. Rezaei, E. Mirzaei, H. Afshari, S.M. Rezayat, R. Faridi-Majidi, Preparation and 48

59 Synthesis of Pseudo-C-Nucleosides, potentially bioactive, for the treatment of Bipolar Disorder M. Gomes 1, M. Lucas 1, J.A. Figueiredo 1, S. Silvestre 2, M.I. Ismael 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Department of Chemistry, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 CICS-UBI, Health Sciences Research Centre, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Bipolar disorder, also known as manic-depressive illness, is a chronic, incapacitating, and serious neuropsychiatric disease in which the patient has recurrent episodes of two opposing mood states, depression and mania. It is known that, between other neurobiological changes involved in this disease, a GSK-3β hyperactivity occurs, which leads to apoptosis of neuronal cells causing reductions of neurons and glial cells [1,2,3,4]. The available medical treatments for this disorder are not the most suitable, once usually are used antipsychotic drugs to treat manic crisis and antidepressant drugs to treat depressive crisis [1,2,3,4]. Due to the lack of efficacy of the treatments available and the various side effects, it is crucial to develop new molecules with potential for the treatment of this disorder. Thus, the pharmaceutical industry is testing compounds present in chemical libraries that are used to treat other neurological diseases, such as epilepsy [5,6,7]. Carbohydrates have a core role in numerous physiological events, such as in cellular communication, and are part of the basic structure of some endogenous biomolecules. Therefore, they are usually biocompatible and good starting materials for the synthesis of new compounds with potential biological activity. This class of biomolecules, over the last few years, have gained ground in the pharmaceutical industry due to the interesting pharmacological activities that they have shown for the treatment of several illnesses, including neurological diseases [7,8]. The aim of this work was to design and synthesize pseudo-c-nucleosides with potential interest in the treatment of bipolar disorder and further in vitro evaluation. The pseudo-c-nucleosides prepared were pyrazolidine-3- ones and 5-hydroxypyrazoles. The synthesis of pyrazolidine-3-ones started with a commercially available compound, 1,2:5,6-Di-Oisopropylidene-α-D-glucofuranose and several reactions were performed until an aldehyde at the position 5 of the furanose ring was obtained. Then, a Wittig reaction was performed for obtaining an α,β-unsaturated ester, which is the final precursor to the reaction in which the ring is closed to give the pyrazolidine-3-one system (Fig. 1). Fig. 1. Synthetic pathway of the pyrazolidine-3-one derivatives and yields. Reactional conditions: a) (Carbethoxymethylene) triphenylphosphorane, Chloroform, 30ºC, 30 min; b) Ethanol, Hydrazine monohydrate, 80ºC, 1 h.[9,10]. The synthesis of the 5-hydroxypyrazoles is similar to the described above. The synthetic pathway is the same until the α,β-unsaturated ester was obtained. Thereafter, an addition reaction was performed to prepare a β- enaminoester, which is the final precursor for the reaction in which the ring is closed to obtain the 5- hydroxypyrazole ring (Fig. 2). 49

60 [(6-Chloro-2,3-dihydrobenzo[1,4]dioxin2yl)methyl] sulfamide, J. Med. Chem. 56 (2013) [6] S. Gupta, P. Masand, B. Frank, K.L. Lockwood, P.L. Keller, Topiramate in Bipolar and Schizoaffective Disorders: Weight Loss and Efficacy, J. Clin. Psychiatry. 2 (2000) [7] S. Hanessian, Iminosugars: From synthesis to therapeutic applications, first Ed., John Wiley&Sons Ltd, London, [8] H. Zhang, Y. Ma, X. Sun, Recent Developments in Carbohydrate-Decorated Targeted Drug/Gene Delivery, Med Res Rev, 30 (2009) [9] J.M.A. Pinheiro, Preparação de novos pseudo-cnucleósidos e sua actividade biológica, Doctoral thesis presented in Universidade da Beira Interior, [10] M.G.P. Baptista, Synthesis of novel potentially bioactive Pseudo-C-Nucleosides for the treatment or control of Bipolar Disorder. Masters dissertation presented in Universidade da Beira Interior, Fig. 2. Synthetic pathway of the 5-hydroxypyrazole derivatives and yields. Reactional conditions: c) DMF, NaN3, MW (450 W), 6 min; d) Ethanol, Hydrazine monohydrate, 80ºC, 1 h. [9,10]. Compounds 11, 12 and 17 were submitted to in vitro cytotoxicity studies in normal human dermal fibroblasts and on neuronal N27 cell line and it was evidenced that the compounds present no relevant cytotoxicity. However, it is necessary more biological evaluations to access their potential as anti-bipolar agents. Literature References [1] J.W. Young., D. Dulcis, Investigating the mechanism(s) underlying switching between states in bipolar disorder, Eur. J. Pharmacol. 759 (2015), [2] R. Machado-Vieira, H. Manji, C.A. Zarate Jr, The role of lithium in the treatment of bipolar disorder: convergent evidence for neurotrophic effects as a unifying hypothesis, BiPolar Disord. 11:Suppl. 2 (2009) [3] T. Kato, M. Kubota, T. Kasahara, Animal models of bipolar disorder, Neurosci. Biobehav. Rev. 31:6 (2007) [4] A.C. Andreazza, B.N. Frey., B. Erdtmann, M. Salvador, F. Rombaldi, A. Santin, C.A. Gonçalves, F. Kapczinski, DNA damage in bipolar disorder, Psychiatry Res. 153:1 (2007) [5] D.F. Mccomsey, V.L. Smith-Swintosky, M.H. Parker, D.E. Brenneman, E. Malatynska, H.S. White, B.D. Klein, K.S. Wilcox, M.E. Milewski, M. Herb, M.F.A. Finley, Y. Liu, M. Lou Lubin, N. Qin, A.B. Reitz, B.E. Maryanoff, Novel, Broad-Spectrum Anticonvulsants Containing a Sulfamide Group: Pharmacological Properties of (S)-N- 50

61 Unisex Clothes Plus Androgyny Bodies Equals Genderless Fashion B. Reis 1, M.M.R. Pereira 1, S. Azevedo 2, N. Jerónimo 3, R. Miguel 1 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 2 LabCom.IFP, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal 3 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract The poster presented during the 3th Symposium intend to explain the differences between androgyny bodies, unisex clothes and genderless fashion. This is an interdisciplinary research on genderless clothing, already described by Reis et al. [1], in what the areas of fashion, sociology and marketing (about the consumer) are approached. There is a point where these three areas meet, according to contemporary fashion, their trends and their paradigms. With this work we intend to make a point of situation of this current investigation of the thesis. In that, one of the points to be left with this research is that the terms, such as unisex, androgynous and genderless, though interconnected, they have different meanings. [3] B.M. Reis, M.M.R. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N.A. Jerónimo, R. Miguel, Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing, in press of CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group, Two major differences between men and women are: the no-makeup trend for women and the full beard for men, besides the biological inherent distinctive force, that determines the difference of sexes between the two. The wave of androgyny in the 2010 s has pushed the boundary from the unsexing of boyfriend jeans and shirts toward the more radical notion of non-gendered dressing [2]. The analysis of the attributes of clothing, considering the unisex already made by Reis et al. [3], concludes that, the proposals for unisex and androgyny collections studied, the blurring of the differences between masculine and feminine tends significantly towards the proximity of typified representations of the characteristics associated with masculinity. Unisex clothing is characterized to be dressed by both sexes, man and woman, regardless their gender. In history of fashion, there are many iconic examples of cross-wardrobe exchanges, women have been allowed to borrow more from men s wardrobes than the other way around [2]. Genderless fashion is undoubtedly a reflection of our times, as we are going through an era in which, both socially and politically, the struggle for equality between the sexes is notable, which influences fashion designers in the development of genderless clothing [3]. References [1] B.M. Reis, M.M.R. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N.A. Jerónimo, R. Miguel, Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing, in press of Taylor & Francis Group, [2] M. Mackinney-Valentin, Fashioning Identity Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion, Bloomsbury Academic,

62 Studying the contexts that influence the creativity of the Fashion Designers working in the Portuguese textile and apparel industry - PhD thesis J.A.B. Barata 1, R.A.L. Miguel 1, S.G. Azevedo 2 1 FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal 2 CEFAGE-UBI, Faculty of Social and Human Sciences, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract In this project, design is perceived as a bridge from creativity to innovation [1]. The thesis aims to study creativity in the Portuguese Textile and Apparel Industry once it presents itself as one of the most value topics in ensuring companies competitiveness. Creativity as being seen in many different forms (as explain in the poster) but currently one may understand it as a result of favorable contexts. The Portuguese Textile and Apparel Industry as set economical milestones [2] in order to ensure a thriving activity until One of the presented pillars regards the creative outcomes and posterior application, hence, innovation. These objectives were overlapped in 2017, three years before the end of the decade, representing the so wanted prosperous activity. Looking towards the future, this Industry is now guided by the Roadmap for intelligent specialization and global competitiveness [3]. This PhD. thesis aims to understand how the contexts surrounding the fashion designer influence, whether to reassure or inhibit, their creative behavior in the professional practice. References [1] T. M. Amabile and M. G. Pratt, Research in Organizational Behavior The dynamic componential model of creativity and innovation in organizations : Making progress, making meaning $, Res. Organ. Behav., vol. 36, pp , [2] ATP Associac a o Te xtil e Vestua rio de Portugal, Têxtil 2020: Projetar o Desenvolvimento da Fileira Têxtil e Vestuário até 2020, Vila Nova de Famalica o, [3] ATP Associac a o Te xtil e Vestua rio de Portugal, Roadmap para a especializac a o inteligente e competitividade global da ITV Portuguesa,

63 Co-creation and the fashion supply chain: benefits and challenges for the future P. Martins, R. A. L. Miguel, L. Pina, J. M. Lucas, M. Pereira FibEnTech-UBI and Textile Science and Technology Department, Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal Abstract Purpose The purpose of the study will be to develop a model of co-creation that can maximize the benefits and minimize the constraints for all the intervenient counter parts in the fashion supply chain and understand which can be the future roles of the fashion designer in co-creation brands. Methodology The development of the study will involve a mixed methodology. For the literature review will be considered articles from informing magazines and newspapers, scientific papers, academic thesis and books. or the practical study it will be considered an interventionist and non-interventionist approach within the qualitative method from the future interviews to supply chain managers, designers and brand managers. The interviews will be non-structured with open and closed questions. Findings Till now, from the literature, it was found that a mix between lean and agile, leagile, could be indeed a model to have into account to achieve better results in the supply chain as this philosophy emphasizes reduction in waste but also flexibility that can be keys for a successful future co-creation model. Originality/value This paper will be of interest to the fashion industry that intends to focus firstly on the consumer. 53

64