TEXTILE CARE LABELING: AN INNOVATIVE APPROACH

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1 Abstract: How is your company currently producing care and content labels for textile and apparel items? Are you pleased with quality and durability? Do you typically print large volumes of these labels to inventory with associated inventory obsolescence? Is there a need to produce shorter runs, add variable data or produce these important labels on demand? If you answered Yes to any of these questions, this white paper is a must-read. It introduces a brand-new product from ARMOR, the global leader in thermal transfer technologies, introducing an innovative resin-based thermal transfer ribbon designed specifically for printing care instruction, fiber content and other labels for textile-based products. ARMOR AXR TX features excellent resistance to all of the stressors encountered by these labels during the product lifecycle while delivering high quality print and complying with key regulations. And they can be affordably printed on demand, even on the manufacturing floor. TABLE OF CONTENTS Textile Care Labeling: An Innovative Approach Introduction Why Care Instruction and Fabric Content Labels Are Important Producing Care and Content Labels Thermal Printing Addressing Label Challenges NEW from ARMOR: AXR TX For More Information INTRODUCTION Textile and apparel items arrive from the factory with a variety of labels and tags. Some are used for branding, and even cross-marketing other products. But perhaps the most important labels, especially for apparel, are those that carry information about care instructions and fabric content. These labels are required by law in most countries, but also serve a significant purpose for consumers and even aid in the sales process in many cases. In this white paper, we discuss why these care instruction and fabric content labels are important, the types of information they must carry, and technologies that enable more efficient production of these labels. In fact, these labels can now be produced on demand, on site at the manufacturing operation, quickly, efficiently and at a superior quality. This eliminates the need to outsource and inventory them, as well as the risk of running out of labels at a critical point in the manufacturing process. We ll also discuss how new inks used in this on-demand printing process are more durable and enable higher quality that traditional textile label manufacturing processes. 1

2 WHY CARE INSTRUCTION AND FABRIC CONTENT LABELS ARE IMPORTANT Most countries around the world have adopted consistent legal requirements for product labeling. This includes textile-based products such as apparel; linens and furnishings; pharmaceutical appliances; outdoor equipment such as tents, sleeping bags and awnings; and even fashion accessories like purses, luggage and backpacks. Manufacturers of these items typically attach these labels during the manufacturing process as they must be sewn into the garment or item in a permanent fashion. Most countries require the following information: Type of fabric every garment must specify how much of each fiber is used in the total construction of the garment when more than 5% of any fiber is present. Sometimes garments will reflect cotton spandex blends that specify 95% cotton and 5% spandex. Care Instructions every manufacturer must provide at least one method of cleaning for each garment. Many labels will also warn about things that could potentially harm your garment. Care instructions can be spelled out in text and/or use symbols to reflect recommended care instructions. Care labels may also reflect the size, where the garment or item is made, the brand, a style number and an RN number, a number issued by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to U.S. businesses that manufacture, import, distribute, or sell products covered by the Textile, Wool, and Fur Acts. Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name. Care instructions and fiber content can also be displayed on the same label. The CA# on a label is used in Canada as an identifier for the Canadian dealer (manufacturer, importer, or seller of the product) in place of the company name and address Businesses can register for a CA number through the Canadian Competition Bureau The CA# is similar to the RN# used in the United States to identify U.S. companies. In addition to being required by law, these labels are also important to consumers. When an item of clothing is being purchased, for example, the consumer may wish to ensure it doesn t require dry cleaning or may be looking for items that are 100% cotton. Fiber content can also be an indicator of quality; e.g., % pure wool from Ireland. These labels advise the consumer how to care for their garment along with any other specific details that are required. They advise on how to properly clean the garments, how to avoid damage such as dyes running, and whether hand washing is required to maximizing the life of the garment. To comply with regulations relative to care and content label durability and in the interests of the consumer, these labels must be durable. They should be able to last and be legible throughout the life cycle of the item. This can be a challenge since clothing especially sports apparel undergoes significant stress, during manufacturing, the sales process, in use and while being cleaned: Labels are often applied prior to the final finishing process for garments and other textile products. Prior to shipment, they may be washed, stone-washed, steamed, ironed or treated in other ways. Labels are handled during the sales process as consumers look to verify content and care instructions prior to purchasing. In use, labels are rubbed, heated, sweated on and exposed to UV light. During the life of a garment, linens or other textile-based products, they undergo many cycles of washing, drying and ironing that further stress the label and impact its legibility. 2

3 There are also regulated test procedures that define resistance levels to these various stressors. Machine wash EN ISO 105-E01 : 2010 Colour fastness in water. EN ISO 6330/A1 : 2009 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing. L size Made in Rubbing EN ISO 105-X12: 2003 Colour fastness to rubbing. Dry cleaning EN ISO 105-D01 : 2010 Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchlorethylene solvent. Sweat EN ISO 105-E04 : 2009 Colour fastness to sweat. ISO 6330/A1:2009 specifies standardized washing and drying procedures for textile testing. The procedures apply to textile fabrics, garments and other made-up textile articles which are subjected to appropriate combinations of domestic washing and drying procedures. There are a variety of ISO color-fastness standards that specify a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials. This includes resistance of the colour of textiles of all types to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent, as well as the resistance of colour of textiles to the action of human perspiration. While the law requires that these labels be applied and are legible in the retailing process, consumers want them to last through the life of the product, especially care labels, in order to be reminded of proper care instructions for the item. Care and content labels are typically made of nylon, polyester or satin. Each has a different price point and value proposition: Nylon (polyamide) is the most economical material. It is low absorbent and therefore dries quickly. But unless they are dip coated, these labels tend to roll up during the washing process, and they are often subject to static electricity. Polyester labels are more rigid and less subject to static than nylon, but cost a bit more. Polyester labels are often used for apparel that is dyed or stone-washed after assembly. Satin labels are the most expensive. They are smooth with a shiny look, but can fray. They are primarily used for intimate garments or luxury items. PRODUCING CARE AND CONTENT LABELS In many cases, large quantities of care and content labels are printed and stored in inventory to take advantage of the cost dynamics of conventional analogue printing techniques such as screen printing. However, there is a growing demand for printing these labels in smaller lot sizes and/or on-demand at the manufacturing site. Additionally, labels applied to textile and apparel items are increasingly using variable data for tracking and other purposes. For labels produced on-demand, in smaller lot sizes or containing variable data, thermal transfer printing is the most convenient and cost-effective printing method. 3

4 THERMAL PRINTING 101 For those not familiar with thermal printing, there are two types of thermal printing. But there is a big difference between the two! Direct thermal label printing requires a heat sensitive label material. Print head elements come into direct contact with the material to create the printed image. While there have been improvements in this technology over the years, the direct contact with the material can cause wear on the print heads resulting in frequent head changes. In addition, the label material can be susceptible deterioration when exposed to heat, light, abrasion and other factors that reduce the usable life of a label. This process is not suitable for printing PCB labels. Thermal transfer label printing uses a thermal transfer ribbon. Print head elements heat the back side of the ribbon to transfer the ink, bonding it to the media. Because there is no direct contact between the media and the print head, print head life is typically 25% to 50% longer, reducing costs and downtime due to head changes. It is the most widely used technology worldwide for printing variable data associated with traceability. As already discussed, care instruction and fiber content labels present challenges across the life cycle of the label. The resins used in traditional thermal transfer label printing cannot withstand the stressors faced by these labels over their lifetime. There are other means of printing these labels that offer more longevity, including screen printing. The disadvantage here is the fact that screen printing requires long set-up times and uses toxic chemicals. In addition, screen printing does not support variable data printing, for which there is growing demand due to track-and-trace and other requirements. Labels can also be woven, a process that is suitable for very large quantities that do not require variable data. ADDRESSING LABEL CHALLENGES ARMOR, the global leader in thermal transfer technologies, is introducing an innovative resinbased thermal transfer ribbon designed specifically for printing care instruction, fiber content and other labels for textile-based products. It features excellent resistance to all of the stressors encountered by these labels during the product lifecycle while delivering high quality print and complying with key regulations. In business for more than 90 years, ARMOR has more than 2,000 employees around the globe, including more than 40 engineers and R&D researchers. ARMOR prides itself on the quality of its manufacturing, with a 99.8% conformity rate for its products monitored by its 48 quality control professionals. The company sold more than one billion square meters of thermal transfer ribbon in 2016, and is generating high double-digit growth. This makes ARMOR the ideal partner for manufacturers of textile-based products who are looking for quality, stability, reliability and innovation. 4

5 NEW from ARMOR: AXR TX ARMOR has developed a brand-new thermal transfer ribbon designed specifically for the printing of care instruction, fiber content and other labels for textile-based products that are likely to undergo exposure to conditions that damage and fade labels printed with conventional resins while at the same time enabling variable data printing for better track-and-trace as well as other uses. AXR TX is a next-generation thermal transfer ribbon designed to produce high quality and ultra-resistant labels for textile products with guaranteed lasting legibility, identifying textile articles and communicating product care information throughout the product life cycle. Printed information using the AXR TX ribbon remains perfectly legible, even with the very small fonts normally used for these types of labels, despite repeated stress from industrial and domestic cleaning processes. In addition to internal testing carried out by ARMOR, the resistance levels of AXR TX have also been assessed against and found compliant with the following standards: Color fastness in water: ISO 105-E01 Domestic washing and drying: ISO 6330/A1 Dry cleaning: ISO 105-D01 In addition, the resistance levels of the AXR TX have been assessed against the following standards and found compliant: Resistance to rubbing: ISO 105-X12 Resistance to sweat: ISO 105-E04 Resistance to UV: higher than 7 on the blue scale ARMOR AXR TX is also resistant to other conditions, including: BLEACH Stonewash Bleach Crease removal Ironing UV What s more, it is RFID compliant so can be used when RFID components are included in the labeling. AXR TX is a very versatile ribbon: a single product for printing on any type of label material used in the textile industry. AXR TX produces high quality prints for both logos and barcodes. The print blackness and sharpness perfectly meet all requirements related to product identification and traceability. All of these characteristics make AXR TX ideal for production of care instruction, fiber content and other textilerelated labels affixed to garments, shoes, linens and other textile-based products. In line with ARMOR s dedication to environmental sustainability, the components of AXR TX thermal printing tape for textile products are non-toxic and eco-friendly. The ribbon complies with the following norms and standards: Halogen Oeko-Tex Free REACH SVHC Free RoHS Halogen Free 1935/2004/EC 5

6 Compliance with Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex is particularly important. It is a worldwide consistent, independent testing and certification system for raw, semi-finished, and finished textile products at all processing levels, as well as accessory materials used. Examples of articles that can be certified include raw and dyed/finished yarns; woven and knitted fabrics; accessories, such as buttons, zip fasteners, sewing threads or labels; and ready-made articles of various types such as household textiles, bed linen, terry products and more. AXR TX is compliant with: Product Class II: Articles that are worn close to the skin such as underwear, bed linens, t-shirts, socks, etc. This means that this method of printing care and content labels can be used for just about any apparel or textile application. AXR TX is compatible with up to 600 dpi flat-head thermal transfer printers from industry suppliers dedicated to care label printing such as Avery Dennison and CAB as well as printers from Datamax, Intermec, Sato, and Zebra. It can be held in appropriate storage conditions for up to a year. This makes AXR TX the most effective, affordable, reliable and convenient solution for printing care instruction, fiber content and other textile-related labels on demand, on site, during the manufacturing process, or for use by outsource suppliers of these labels. FOR MORE INFORMATION For more information about thermal transfer printing for textile-based products or other ARMOR solutions, contact : For ASPAC Region: Ms. Eileen ANG (eileen.ang@armor-group.com) For AMERICAS Region: M. Olivier MOREAU (olivier.moreau@armor-group.com) For EMEA Region: Miss Marie-Noelle NGUYEN (marie-noelle.nguyen@armor-group.com) Or visit Thermal Transfer is the most widely used technology for printing variable information on 6 labels or packaging.