Liner Replacement Instructions: Before beginning the replacement procedure... Be sure to disconnect electrical service to all of your electrical components of the pool. Use extreme caution when working in and around the front housing. The stainless steel edges, especially around the propeller cylinder, are very sharp. Wear protective gloves when removing the motor. If your power unit is at a higher elevation than the propulsion housing, disconnect both hydraulic hoses at the power unit. Use the red threaded plugs to cap the end of each hose, making sure to mark each hose so you know to which fitting it needs to be re-connected. Draining pool Draining the pool is best accomplished by siphoning the water out of the pool by simply using a garden hose. With one end of the garden hose placed into the water in the deepest location, run the other end of the hose to a suitable drainage location that is lower than the deepest section of your pool. A submersible pump may also be used to drain the pool. Removing front housing and hydraulic motor Remove the four stainless steel corner covers with a screwdriver. These are removed to prevent the liner from being nicked when the pool is drained and the liner temporarily loses its tight fit. Remove the propulsion housing by first removing the stainless steel throat below the front water-conditioning grill. The throat is attached by three screws in the front and two screws on either side. As you remove the throat, do not allow the front grill to fall and puncture the liner. Remove the three screws on the each side of the housing unit. As you do this, be careful of sharp stainless steel edges. Remove the screws that attach the housing to the wall mounting bracket. Remove the housing from the interior of the pool. (Replacing the hydraulic motor is not an essential part of the liner replacement procedure. However, we have found that many customers choose to do so at the same time as a liner replacement. If you are not removing and replacing the motor, please skip ahead to the next section, Removing benches, fittings, and liner ) Take the 7/16 wrench and loosen the bolt on top of the propeller. Remove the propeller from motor shaft and then verify that the propeller fits on the new motor shaft. If not, take a half-round file to the propeller hub so that the shaft fits snugly.
Hold a paper towel around the hydraulic hose as you loosen the hydraulic hose fitting with the 15/16 wrench. Once removed, plug hoses immediately with the steel plugs provided. Cap the motor fittings with the steel caps provided (which are installed on the replacement motor). Wipe away any excess hydraulic fluid that may have oozed onto the hose. With a 9/16 wrench, remove the bolts that attach the motor to the motor mounting bracket. Watch that the motor does not fall as you remove the bolts. Mount the new motor in the same manner on the motor mounting bracket using the new stainless steel bolts and washers. Place Teflon on all four motor bolt threads before inserting into the threaded holes in the motor. Attach the bolts loosely before tightening all the way. Center the motor on the bracket. Reattach the hydraulic hoses, again wrapping a paper towel around the hose to absorb any residual hydraulic fluid. Make sure that both o-rings are on the motor, and that all dirt and grit has been removed between the threads before securing in place. These are mechanical o-ring seals so no Teflon tape or sealant should be used. Apply @ 60 ft/lbs of pressure to the fittings. Attach the new propeller to the motor. Be sure that the edge of the key on the motor shaft is aligned vertically so that it will fit into the key way on the propeller. Tap into alignment gently with a hammer if necessary. Note: The motor was shipped with a red plastic band on the shaft. This is only to keep the key on the motor shaft in shipment. Remove this band before attaching propeller. Removing benches, fittings and liner Remove all of the side benches and plastic supports from the pool, taking care to note the orientation of the benches and supports for reassembly. Remove all of the necessary thru wall fittings that are holding the liner in place, including the thru wall fitting face plates, jet bulkheads, and light lenses. The skimmer needs to be removed by first removing each of the 10 bolts that are holding it in place, and then pushing the skimmer into the pool from the outside (this will require you to cut the PVC pipe connected to the skimmer if no union has been plumbed into the suction line). Disconnect the submersible hoses that are attached to the valve outside of the pool (the two hoses attached to the TOP of the valve assembly). Once this is done, the thru-wall fittings that secure the hoses to the front panel can be loosened, and the two short hydraulic hoses are then slid through the openings in the liner. After these hoses are coiled inside the pool, the entire front base assembly, including the hoses, can be removed from the pool. To begin removing the liner, it is easiest to remove the walls of the liner first. Starting in one corner of the pool, cut the liner from bottom (where the panels meet the concrete floor) to approximately 2 inches below the liner hanger bead. Next, cut the liner
horizontally just under the liner hanger, proceeding around the entire perimeter of the pool. Once this is done, do the same at the floor of the pool, so that all of the walls of the liner are removed, leaving only the liner floor in tact. It is wise to leave this liner floor in place until the galvanized steel panels are inspected and treated, as necessary. Inspection of steel panels It is possible that, upon removing the liner, you will see some corrosion to your galvanized steel panels. Corrosion is most likely to have occurred in locations where there was not a proper seal around a cut-out in the panel, or where a bead of silicone was not placed between the liner hanger and the coping. It is also likely that the corrosion is little more than surface corrosion (which appears white in color), meaning that the structural integrity of the pool walls has not been compromised. Applying mineral spirits to the galvanized steel will remove much of the surface corrosion and also any dust or debris. Heavier corrosion will appear rust colored, and is best treated by sanding, and then painting the affected area. We recommend using paint that is suitable for galvanized metals that have been affected by oxidation. If you are concerned about the corrosion that you see, please call our Customer Service Department for additional consultation. New liner installation After removing the floor material, you may wish to remove the layer of protective felt and install new material. Before re-installing the new felt, it is beneficial to scrub the concrete floor surface area with a diluted Clorox (50-50 mix of Clorox and water). With the galvanized panels ready, use either silicone caulk or an expandable foam spray to fill the gap between the bottom flange and the pool floor. If the gap is larger than 3/4, place an appropriately sized wood shim under the flange before caulking. It is also a good idea to place a bead of silicone along the six vertical joints of the galvanized panels; however, it is best to leave the area under the four foam corners free of silcone when possible, since this will allow water to drain from the pool area in the event of a leak in the liner. Install the felt on the pool floor and the four foam corner inserts. From the outside of the pool, place duct tape over every hole that has been cut in the galvanized panels, except for the skimmer cut-out, which will be used for the vac hose. Any standard size shop-vac (5 gallon canister) is appropriate, using a 1 1/4 vac hose.
Place one end of the vac hose through the skimmer cut-out and into the pool. You should place the hose against the panel and against the nearest foam corner insert (right front corner) so that it rests 4 above the floor of the pool where the panels are anchored. From outside of the pool, tape the vac hose in place at the skimmer cut-out. Place the liner inside the pool. To help orient the liner, note that the sole vertical seam on the liner will be placed at the center of the front panel. Move the liner in place so that the corners of the main floor of the liner match the foam corner inserts. Be sure that the vacuum hose is still located in the corner and is 4 from the floor. Turn on the vacuum. Check the corners of the pool. If the liner seems to be located in the proper place, begin to remove wrinkles. If not, remove the liner from the liner hanger enough to be able to rotate the liner into the correct location. When working out wrinkles, start along the floor of the pool and work towards the sides. If you have a deeper section, start at the floor of the pit, working the wrinkles up the vertical wall onto the main floor of the pool. Although you should see a dramatic improvement in the condition of the liner, it is likely that the liner will not be wrinklefree when you begin filling with water. When satisfied with the fit of the liner, begin filling with water, leaving the vacuum on until there is 2 of water in the shallowest part of the pool, just above the bottom of the benches. Once 2 of water is in the shallowest part of the pool, turn off the vacuum. Remove the vac hose and all of the duct tape from the pool walls. Included in the box with the liner are No Diving signs. Please post these in prominent locations around the pool. The Endless Pool is shallow and must never be used for diving. Diving into the pool is a very serious hazard and these stickers are intended to warn children of the risks. Naturally, adult supervision is also critical whenever children use the pool. Stainless steel components installation Remove any debris from the motor mounting bracket. Lower the front propulsion assembly into the front of the pool taking care to keep the hose ends from getting wet. Two people can accomplish this if they work carefully in stages. Be careful not to catch the liner. Carefully slide the assembly all the way to the front of the pool and make sure it is centered left to right. Remount the housing onto the front bench. These screws need only be snug. Do not over tighten as the heads are easily stripped. Make sure all the screws fit before tightening completely. Insert front water conditioning grill and reattach the throat.
Place the stainless steel side benches inside the pool and install them using the side supports at the junction between two benches.. Attach the rear base middle support (if removed from the base during disassembly) to the perforated rear base using the two stainless steel 10/32 screws on top and one 10/32 stainless steel screw and nut provided with this plastic support. Lower this assembly into the rear of the pool. Keep all screws loose until you have started all the screws. Focus first on the bottom screws as they are difficult to work on once the holes are covered with water. If you use a cordless screw gun as shown on the video take care not to over tighten the screw into the PVC. Be careful to inspect for burrs while installing these screws. If a burr occurs remove the screw and discard. Do not try to install the stainless steel corner covers or any optional corner steps at this time. They may fit tightly against the liner in the corners and you risk cutting the liner. Put them aside for the moment. They should not be installed until more water is in the pool which will push the liner back in the corners. Once the stainless steel is in and the holes are lining up, you may continue filling the pool while you work. Stop filling three inches below the lowest thru-wall connection. Once all the screws are tight, secure the front housing with the grab bar back against the steel wall of the pool using the special corrosion resistant self-drilling fasteners provided. Use only the stainless steel, self drilling fasteners provided. Do not use Tek screws which will rust. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW ARE SPECIFICALLY WRITTEN FOR POOLS THAT HAVE FOUR ROUND THRU WALL FITTINGS FOR THE RETURN LINE, HYDRAULIC HOSES, AND SECONDARY SUCTION LINE. POOLS THAT HAVE SHIPPED PRIOR TO 1998 ARE LIKELY TO HAVE STAR THROUGH WALL CONNECTIONS IN THESE LOCATIONS. Once the water level is three inches below the lowest thru-wall fitting, cut 3 round holes in the liner using the holes through the steel as a template and a utility knife as shown in the video. If optional hydrotherapy jets (Tech Bulletin #6) or underwater lights (Tech Bulletin #7) were selected you must also cut these holes in the liner as well and plumb the jets system and/or install the light niches. Install the two thru wall fittings. One fitting takes water from the pool and is under suction and the other one returns water to the pool after filtering, heating, and purifying. The suction port is the lowest of the three inline prepunched holes. The return fitting is on the other side of the housing (the left side as you face the propulsion assembly from inside the pool). Each of the thru-wall fittings has two rubber washers and one cork gasket. One rubber washer is placed between the liner and the steel wall of the pool. One rubber washer is placed between the fitting and the liner inside the pool. The cork gasket is placed outside the pool under the large hex nut that holds the fitting to the wall. This nut should be
tightened hand tight; if the fitting leaks, try tightening with a quarter-turn using channel locks. Ultimately, the return fitting will have an eyeball fitting installed. For the moment you may replace the eyeball fitting with a threaded plug with O-ring on the inside of the pool. The suction fitting needs to have both a small adapter and round strainer screwed into it to eliminate the hazards of suction at this fitting. The safety strainer fitting is loosely installed for shipment. For the moment you may replace the round safety strainer fitting with a threaded plug with O-ring. This will allow you to continue filling the pool before completing the plumbing of the Water Quality System. Before starting up be sure to remove these plugs and replace them with the appropriate threaded pieces. Above the suction thru-wall are two thru-walls for two hydraulic hoses. The thru-wall assembly is pretightened on each hose with the appropriate amount of teflon sealant. Simply remove the hex nut, cork gasket and one rubber washer from each fitting and install them through the wall of the pool, as done with the previous thru-wall fittings. Hand tighten the large hex nut and connect the hydraulic elbow fittings to the top of the valve assembly as shown in the drawing accompanying the valve assembly. You may continue to fill the pool to a point three inches below the bottom of the skimmer opening. In the unlikely event that any of these fittings drips call Customer Service. Do not apply a wrench to any of these fittings without first calling Customer Service. The final opening on the front panel is the rectangular opening for the skimmer. See Figure 33.12. The skimmer will be plumbed to the suction fitting as shown in Tech Bulletin #3 in order to reduce the suction hazard and protect the pump in the event that the system is kept on with the water low. The final protection against suction hazard is the stainless steel triangular shroud which installs over these inline fittings at the end of the installation. Plumb the skimmer as described in the manufacturer s literature in the box. Use the 100% plumber s silicone provided. Last revised 12/1/05