The Nuts & Bolts of Tree Felling

The Nuts & Bolts of Tree Felling { Basic felling, safety, and chainsaw maintenance for woodland owners Joe Herring, Iowa DNR Forestry Bureau

For weekend warriors who want to work safely in their woods Firewood Production Forest Stand Improvement & Thinning X Removing Unwanted Trees

Quick Program Outline Felling methodology Basic saw maintenance Time permitting: Common pickle situations Safety

Just kidding! Safety First. Footnote: Never do a Google image search for Chainsaw injuries

Minimum gear needed Helmet Ear & eye protection Chaps Boots Gloves

Basic safety stuff Keep your thumbs wrapped around top handle Use your chain break: Whenever pull-starting Whenever walking Stand with feet firmly planted when throttling Bend at the knees, not back Work with saw close to your body (not outreached)

Part II. Tree Felling Every Tree Deserves a Plan

Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? Factors to consider: Lean Weight Wind

Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? 2. Where do you want the tree to go?

Wherever there s space Avoid damaging other trees

Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? Check. 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Check. Can it be done??? If no, STOP!!

A tree MUST have a place where it can go down.

The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards

3. Identify hazards Hangers Dead limbs that are still attached Intertwined branches from neighboring trees Vines Cracks Rot & decay

Big Butts are for good for Sir Mix-a-Lot, but not for logging

The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Identify escape route

4. Identify escape route NOT aside the tree NOT directly behind Retreat at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of fall, on either side Clear away any obstacles before hand

Felling Direction

The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Identify escape route 5. Identify good side and bad side of tree

5. Identify good side vs. bad side Side lean Imbalanced weight to one side Wind Final cuts and retreat will be made from the good side of the tree Good Side Leaning away; Direction of Fall Bad Side

Review: Every Tree Deserves a Plan 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Clear escape route 5. Identify good side and bad side of tree

Principles of the felling cuts timbergreenforestry.com

Cut out a wedge and the tree falls that way, right?

Open-face notch/ Hinge method Taught by FISTA and Game of Logging programs Maintains total control of tree when used properly Some loss in butt log volume Increased safety, production output, and wood recovery

Why it works Wood has high longitudinal strength (tension) The hinge controls tree s direction of fall timbergreenforestry.com

Not to be confused with Hinge cutting for deer habitat improvement

Three cuts: 3. Final Backcut 1. Open-face notch 2. Bore cut 3. Final backcut 1. Notch Hinge 2. Bore cut

It s all about the hinge

Notch Direction of Fall

Notch Direction of Fall Hinge

Notch Direction of Fall Holding Wood Hinge

Notch Direction of Fall Hinge

TIM-BER!!!!! Retreat at 45-degree angle on tree s good side Try to get behind other large trees Watch for falling limbs

Cut specifications How deep should my notch be? 80% of D.B.H.

Cut specifications Open face notch angle 70-90 o

Match your cuts; No bypasses allowed

Helpful tips for cutting the notch 1. Carefully aim the direction 2. Make first cut from top, downward at ~60 o angle

First cut timbergreenforestry.com

More specifications Dimensions of the HINGE Thickness: 10% of D.B.H. Length: 80% of D.B.H.

Helpful tips for bore cutting Position yourself on the good side Don t accidentally cut off your hinge! Initiate cut with attack corner Hinge; don t cut!

Chainsaw reactive forces Kickback Corner Push Attack Corner Pull

Notch Direction of Fall

Notch Direction of Fall Hinge

Must perform bore cut at full RPMs

Make all cuts on level plane

Remember, practice makes perfect

Why bother with the bore cut? Eliminates risk of barber chairs on large trees or leaning trees Safety issue Wood recovery issue Uniform hinge thickness ensures directional accuracy Faster production; less collateral damage to residual stand What about wedging?

Part III. Routine saw maintenance Let the saw do the work!

The Chain s the Thing 1 1. Always sharpen your own chain, with a handheld file 2. Do frequently in small doses Prevents overheating Saves money & time Keeps your chain tip-top and you happy 1 Please see article by Dave Johnson in June 2009 Nebraska Timber Talk newsletter

Understanding the chain Depth gauge aka raker Cutter

Sharpening is a simple task of filing the cutters

Keep it simple

Note alternating teeth on your chain

Locate starting link Begin with back half

1. Align guide with bar s axis 2. Push file forward, keeping flat with slight upward pressure, 1-2 strokes 3. Advance chain forward and repeat for next cutter 4. Flip file and repeat for opposite-facing cutters

You should have nice, big shavings not sawdust

Note markings on cutters

Filing gradually reduces depth gauge setting as top plate gets shorter

Filing the rakers down

Basic chain types Standard chisel chain (yellow label) Low kickback (green or blue label) Makes bore cutting more difficult Filing rakers more difficult

Other routine stuff to pay attention to Clutch Bar Oiler Air cleaner

Keep area around the clutch clean Bar oiler

Monitor condition of the bar

Clean out rails/oil port 1 2 3 4

Rotate bar every other use and check oiling action often

Lastly: Keep the air cleaner CLEAN!

Which saw is best?

You are hereby deemed Dangerously Knowledgeable Beavers: Thousands of years of evolutional Training You: One hour

Recommended Training Programs Forest Industry Safety & Training Alliance (FISTA) Game of Logging

Thanks for listening Extra slides

Common pickles encountered in the woods Hard leaners Hung trees Springpoles Wedging

Dealing with hard leaners High risk for barber chairs Very fast release Trunk can swing unpredictably when it lands

Dealing with hard leaners Leave more holding wood than usual Make the release cut below the plane of the bore cut (4-8 inches lower, depending on mass & lean of the tree) Get away from the stump Back

Felling against their natural lean

Laws of physics still apply Depends on amt. of lean & other variables Tall & skinny trees = Easier Fat, short trees = More difficult Mathematical formulas are available, but somewhat involved

How it s done 1. Set up notch, hinge, & holding wood as normal 2. Insert wedges into both sides of bore cut & pound tight 3. Cut holding wood 4. Pound wedges in until tree falls

Back to program Back to pickles

Hang-ups

Hang-ups 1. Identify the fulcrums/tension vs. compression sides 2. Cut about 1/3 of way through on compression side, then finish on opposite 3. Helps to cut at an angle (not perpendicular to the trunk) to avoid pinching Back

Springpoles Very dangerous Catch-22: cut the backside, and the tree springs violently Cut the inside, and your saw gets pinched

Springpoles 1. Identify the sweet spot

Springpoles 2. Slowly shave off thin layers of wood from under the tree at this spot, moving the saw back and forth

Tree will gently release tension, and you get to keep your nose intact Back