Cosmetic Weighing Analytical and solutions Analysis in the Laboratory laboratory 10 News Routine Robot Checks with MCP System The Beiersdorf research center in Germany uses a TECAN robot to automatically identify substances with antimicrobial activity against the bacterial strain often found in cosmetics. Incorporating the Multi- Channel Pipette Calibration System (MCP), the routine control of the robot s accuracy becomes much easier and efficient. Robot Testing The addition of antimicrobial substances to cosmetics guarantees the required shelf life and maintains the products hygiene. Testing these substances consists of mixing typically 10 or 100 μl of the cosmetic with the bacteria, Corynebacterium xerosis ATCC 7711, allowing it to incubate for 48 hours and then examining the bacterial colonies. Any dispensing error has direct consequences on the test results. It is therefore critical that Beiersdorf maintains the accuracy of the TECAN robot (Genesis RSP 200/ 8 syringes) with thorough testing: regular internal checks plus the annual service performed by a TECAN representative. The periodic checks for accuracy and repeatability use the gravimetric method as specified by ISO 8655 i.e. using a balance to weigh the liquid dispensed by the syringes. These checks were previously carried out according to the following procedure at Beiersdorf: collect water from the 8 syringes in 8 individual tubes repeat 10 times transport tubes to adjacent laboratory weigh the amount of water using differential weighing on an analytical balance complete the procedure for 2 volumes - 10 μl and 100 μl These checks proved tedious and inaccurate for 10 μl and Beiersdorf sought for a more efficient and accurate solution. The MCP Solution The answer is to incorporate the METTLER TOLEDO MCP system into the checking procedure. The MCP system is a 0.01mg
Pipette Calibration System 8 syringes dispensing water simultaneously into the MCP system. resolution balance which complies with ISO 8655 for weighing volumes of 10-100 μl. Beiersdorf specified that the system should be positioned directly on the robot work table and the exact location was defined in the TECAN set up phase. At each routine check the MCP system is installed in this position and performs checks on 10 sets of 8 samples with 2 test volumes. The METTLER TOLEDO Calibry Software controls the MCP system, captures calibration data, sets the tolerance (8% at 10 μl, 4% at 100 μl) and clearly indicates the pass/ fail status for each syringe. MCP System Benefits The main advantages of the MCP system compared to a conventional balance are that the 8 syringes are dispensed in a single step into 8 containers which are then weighed automatically one after another. According to Beiersdorf techni- cian, Mr. A Firyn, the complete robot test including MCP installation and removal lasts less than 30 minutes compared with 2½ hours previously. The overall results indicate that the time interval between routine tests could be optimized from twice per month to once per month. In the meantime, the MCP system can also be used for the manual testing of both single and multi channel pipettes. As a result of this level of monitoring, syringes can be changed before they exceed the required tolerance. Mr. B Traupe, lab manager of special claim support, now has absolutely confidence in test results and has reduced team workload. Results are so positive that Beiersdorf intends to apply the same testing procedure to their recently purchased Hamilton Microlab Star robot. www.mt.com/pipcal Tecan robot equipped with MCP system. Publisher Mettler-Toledo AG Laboratory Division Im Langacher CH-8606 Greifensee, Switzerland Production Segment Marketing LAB Global MarCom Switzerland Subject to technical changes. Mettler-Toledo AG 08/09 Printed in Switzerland. 2 METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10
From Molecular Biology To Commercially Viable Cosmetics The global cosmetics and toiletries sector is reported to be valued at more than $250 billion with not only traditional cosmetics companies playing a role but now also many smaller biotech companies and academic institutions providing novel preparations and techniques to support this growing industry. Many traditional techniques utilized in the molecular biology lab are now part of a process that enables the successful development of commercially viable cosmetics. Wide Range of Offerings Rainin, as a leading supplier of liquid handling products, supports many of the direct laboratory needs for the cosmetics industry from research, through to QA/ QC. The typical product range that supports the scientists in these labs includes not only traditional air displacement pipettes, along with Bioclean filter tips for DNA research on the effect of preparations at the molecular level, but also positive displacement pipettes. due to the tight fit of the capillary/piston system. The same Pos-D system can also be used to accurately transfer volatile solvents, often used to prepare cosmetic samples for analysis by Gas or Liquid Chromatography - again, a more effective solution than traditional air displacement pipettes. www.mt.com/pos-d Pos-D Irreplaceable Tool Positive displacement pipettes, such as the Pos-D, are capable of working with liquids with much higher viscosity routinely found in many cosmetic preparations. The integrated design of the piston and capillary used in the Pos-D, allows researchers to accurately pick up, transfer and dispense small volumes of these viscous liquids for analysis. The accuracy achieved by the Pos-D could not be reproduced with an air displacement pipette METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10 3
R&D Perfect Scents Made Possible by DR Combined Meter Bastet is a family-run enterprise, founded in 1992, specializing in producing perfumery essences used in cosmetics and household products. Currently under international expansion particularly in Africa, Asia and East Europe, their objective remains unchanged: designing and producing high quality products. DR40 Combined Meter Stringent Control of Raw Materials Certified by ISO 9001, Bastet designs exclusive customized scent according to customer requirements. The laboratories need to adapt product scents in order to ensure that it meets all technical requirements specified by the client. Various controls must be performed on the wide variety of materials received and selected. One such analysis that the QC lab needs to carry out is density and refractive index in order to check if the formulation or mixture is correct. If both values are within the specifications one can assume that the mixture is correct. To measure the density and refraction indexes, lab technicians previously needed to perform tasks with 2 separate instruments. Each analysis would take about 30 minutes and required large amounts of sample (100g). Having realized this bottleneck in workflow, Bastet invested in a DR combined meter for simultaneous determination of density and refractive index and a SC1 sample delivery and cleaning system. Results are now available in only 2 minutes using merely 15 grams of sample. With the DR+SC1 system, samples are delivered automatically by overpressure (up to 2 bars), which increases productivity as well as allowing highly viscous and volatile samples to be easily determined. A normal suction function (less than 1 bar pressure) will have difficulty to move a viscous sample. Cleaning of the system is also automatic and efficient. Meanwhile, the system also offers automatic error detection and the possibility of recovering the samples measured. Perfect Partner The management and operators have stated that they are very pleased with both products and the service provided. Mr. Francesc Rubio, manger of Bastet, states that, METTLER TOLEDO is the only manufacturer capable of providing equipment that does both measurements at the same time, thus leading to considerable savings in both time and money. www.mt.com/de-re Mr. Francesc Rubio, Manager of Bastet and Amàlia Rubio, Perfumer. Office building of Bastet. 4 METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10
Know-how Comprehensive Product Network Advances Testing Process Beauty and skin care products are subjected to a number of vigorous tests before they re made available to consumers. For one global manufacturer of women s beauty products, improvements on such tests recently became a priority. Learn more about analytical chemical applications UserCom 13, the user magazine, provides valuable information about the following topics: Seeking for Alternative The manufacturer s US-based facility was interested in improving test times on the raw materials that go into their lotions, deodorants, shampoos and conditioners so they turned to METTLER TOLEDO. They were relying on another vendor s titrator that was difficult to program and incapable of being calibrated, which made the testing time consuming and unreliable for their lab technicians. During a site visit to demonstrate equipment, a METTLER TOLEDO sales representative introduced the company to the Titration Excellence T70 Titrator. The manufacturer was so happy with the results of the T70 that they looked to METTLER TOLEDO to provide a complete solution to their testing process, which eventually led to the purchase of two DE40 Density Meters, a DL38 Volumetric Titrator, and service on all their equipment. The manufacturer is now able to test their beauty and skin care products in a more efficient manner whilst ensuring a safe and reliable product for store shelves. The T70 has accelerated the testing process by providing three analyses in a single method. Lab technicians can now also test for the surfactant, peroxide and chloride contents of the raw materials that go into their products with One Click Titration. This method speeds up the titration process three-fold through its user-friendly interface and provides for more accurate test results. www.mt.com/one-click-titration www.mt.com/karl-fischer www.mt.com/density www.mt.com/labx Customer Reports Applications Expert Tips New Products Download free UserCom 13 www.mt.com/ac-usercom13 METTLER TOLEDO is in the process of synchronizing all the equipment to provide consistent network data on testing results, which will be made possible through the METTLER TOLEDO LabX family of products. One of the stronger benefits of LabX for this solution is that it removes the step of manually entering data for tests run on all equipment to which it is linked. This helps eliminate human error and adds security to the data collected. METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10 5
DSC Better Cosmetic Formulation Development with DSC Liposomes are used extensively in cosmetic formulations due to their ability to act as the carrier mechanism for delivering active ingredients directly to the cell membrane. The following examples illustrate how differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is an excellent technique to investigate the thermal effects of pure liposomes and additives in bi-layer membranes. DSC Analysis of Lipids and Liposomes Advancements in liposome technology offer the potential for improving many cosmetic formulations, such as moisturizers, anti-aging and skin regeneration products. Liposomes are produced when some phospholipids aggregate to form double layers of molecules and then close to form bi-layer membranes. Both multi-lamellar (MLVs) and uni-lamellar (SUVs) structures can be produced into which active ingredients can be incorporated. SUV (small uni-lamellar vesicles) liposome samples. The DSC curves in Figure 1 show the phase transition measurements of pure MLVs (above) and SUVs (below). The SUVs can be distinguished from the MLVs by the peak temperature of the pre-transition. The high sensitivity of the DSC HSS7 sensor allows the very weak pre-transition at 35 C to be detected, even if the concentration of the sample solution is very low (0.029%). The incorporation of flavonoids (such as quercetin and rutin) into liposomes has also been effective. This is because flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds with a diphenylpropane structure that exhibit different biological effects, such as antiinflammatory, anti-free radical, antioxidation, anti-allergic and anti-elastic activity. The DSC 1, equipped with a high sensitivity sensor (HSS7) and an intracooler, was used to measure the phase transitions of pure MLV (multi-lamellar vesicles) and Figure 1: Phase transitions of MLV and SUV liposomes. 6 METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10
Know-how Figure 2 demonstrates how the DSC 1 can be used to accurately compare the thermotropic properties of dipalmitoyl-phosphatidycholine (DPPC) incorporated with different flavonoid mixtures. The enthalpies and characteristic temperatures were evaluated using the METTLER TOLEDO STARe software. DSC1 Get an insight into the thermal analysis of thermosets and practical examples The application handbook Thermosets Collected Applications, available in 2 volumes, presents an overview of the techniques commonly used to characterize thermosets. It is also intended for those who are new to the field of thermosetting polymers and wish to learn more about thermosets properties and applications. Visit and sign up for the valuable Handbook: Figure 2: Typical DSC curves of DPPC/flavonoid mixtures. (Source: UserCom 21) The DSC 1 is an excellent tool to investigate the thermal effects of liposomes and additives in bi-layer membranes. Investigation of the flavonoid interaction with the model membranes revealed close-lying thermal effects depending on the structure of the flavonoid. The DSC 1, equipped with a HSS7 sensor, also has the ability to detect very weak thermal transitions proving it to be a very valuable system for research and development in the cosmetic industry. www.mt.com/dsc www.mt.com/ta HSS7 Sensor www.mt.com/ta-books METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10 7
Online Tools Use www.mt.com as a Work Efficiency Resource Quick results with application notes Application Data Sheet for Moisture Determination Using the Halogen Moisture Analyzer METTLER TOLEDO We offer comprehensive application support for weighing, moisture analysis, titration and many other analytical methods. Our titration application database alone holds over 300 applications for each relevant industry segment. This data sheet contains details of Halogen Moisture Analyzer settings for drying coffee cream. These settings enable you to develop your own drying method. The settings must be checked individually and adapted to the relevant sample. The reference method data enables you to make comparisons with the Halogen Moisture Analyzer method. Moisture Determination Method for Coffee Cream Description/material properties Valflora coffee cream UHT, 0.25 l TetraPak, Migros e.g. Titration Applications: www.mt.com/titration_applications Reference Method: Oven Accessories METTLER TOLEDO AX205 DR balance, oven, aluminum pans, pipette, desiccator with silica gel, sea sand, small glass stirrer, spoon Sample preparation/procedure Pre-dry the aluminum pans with 20 g of sea sand and a small glass stirrer in the oven (1 hour at 110 C) and then leave to cool in the desiccator. Using the pipette, place the cream in the pre-weighed aluminum pans and stir well. Leave the samples to thicken in the oven for 30 mins at 90 C, then start drying them at 103 C in the oven. Remove the contents after the preset drying time has elapsed, leave to cool in the desiccator and weigh. Repeat the process until mass constancy is achieved. e.g. Moisture Applications: www.mt.com/moisture-methods Sample weight: 4 [g] Drying temperature: 103 [ C] Drying times: 3/1/1 [hour(s)] Moisture content (average of 6 measurements): 77.67 [%] Standard deviation: 0.30 [%] Important notes/bibliography Literature: Schweizerisches Lebensmittelbuch (Swiss Food Book) (Issue 5), 3A / 03 Tips & tricks for daily work improvements www.mt.com offers a great deal of background information on techniques, such as weighing processes, in addition to tips and tricks on how to improve your results. Our UserCom magazines offer many examples of how to carry out better and more efficient working practice. e.g. Good Weighing Practice: www.mt.com/gwp e.g. Thermal Analysis UserCom: www.mt.com/ta-usercoms 8 METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10
Learn new techniques with little time or effort in our webinars You can join a wide array of webinars to gain knowledge about various topics from process optimization and applications to advanced techniques. e.g. Automated Chemistry Webinars: www.mt.com/ac-webinars e.g. Thermal Analysis Webinars: www.mt.com/ta-webinars Get the right help to fix problematic issues quickly We offer tools which interactively troubleshoot common issues with lab equipment, such as electrodes for example. Electrode Diagnosis Cockpit: www.mt-electrode.com Download comprehensive documentation We offer manuals and other documents related to our products and your business including various information supporting your equipment qualification needs. e.g. Balance Instruction Manuals: Find corresponding manuals on our product page e.g. Conformity Documents: Find corresponding manuals on our product page METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10 9
Laboratory Instruments Analytical Instruments for Creative and Effective Cosmetic Products Research & Development In today s fast moving market, the creation of new cosmetic formulations requires techniques that are quick, traceable and easy to use. Thermal Analysis Excellence for All Requirements Thermal Analysis can be used to characterize raw products, study the stability of formulations and generally investigate melting and crystallization behavior. Thanks to its modular design, the Differential Scanning Calorimeter, DSC 1, is the best choice for manual or automatic operation within research and development. ph Specialists for Special Needs Adherence to the correct ph value is very important, especially for cosmetic products which end up being directly applied to the skin. METTLER TOLEDO offers an appropriate and user-friendly solution for viscous and highly glutinous sample analysis with the InLab viscous electrode and the InLab surface electrode for measuring cosmetics after they have already been applied to the skin. Weighing Small Samples with Ease and Precision Excellence analytical balances set new standards in terms of weighing performance, user-friendliness and safety, especially for small sample sizes. The XP Analytical Balances are optimized for common tasks in R&D labs, such as preparation of standards for further HPLC analysis. www.mt.com/dsc www.mt.com/electrodes www.mt.com/xp-analytical 10 METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10
Quality Control and Analytics Production Quality control labs are under great pressure to produce reliable results of the highest quality in a very short time frame. Automated solutions enable high sample throughput, keeping productivity at its highest without any compromise on quality. Choosing instruments which are 'reliable', 'easy to clean' and 'easy to use' are prerequisites for production areas known for their harsh environment and variety of equipment used. Multi-Parameter Analysis Guarantees Quality Refractive index and density need to be checked for each individual sample batch in order to ensure the consistent quality of cosmetic products, which results in a multitude of measurements each day. Determination of both parameters simultaneously and the full automation of the entire process reduces analysis time considerably using the DR40 Combined Meter with the SC30 sample changer. www.mt.com/de-re Simple and Secure One Click Water Determination As the water content of cosmetic creams and lotions greatly influences its consistency and storage conditions, it has to be checked on every final product. With just one click on the graphical display of the V30 volumetric KF titrator, a new series is started providing accurate and precise results within minutes. www.mt.com/karl-fischer User Friendly Weighing Process for Cosmetic Products The Excellence precision balances with its easy-to-use menu structure, built in software application and easy to clean housing support the user during weighing procedures whilst eliminating errors during the production of cosmetic products. www.mt.com/xp-precision METTLER TOLEDO CosmeticNews 10 11
Spotlight on Promotions Automated quality control of liquids Reduced workload, more reliable results Special offering on LiQC Software! LiQC software is based on a product oriented approach. The user can define for each type of product to be measured. No methods to select, no settings to worry about. Speed up your daily workflow process Ensure secure operation and improve compliance Facilitate results evaluation Avoid transcription errors www.mt.com/liqcpromo Get a special discount on LiQC standard software for density and refractometers. Contact your local representatives for detailed information. Mettler-Toledo AG Laboratory Division Im Langacher CH-8606 Greifensee, Switzerland www.mt.com For more information