Subject: Apparel Merchandising Unit 10: Export merchandising Quadrant 1 e-text Learning Objectives The learning objectives of this unit are to: Describe co-ordination, follow up and facilitation functions of a merchandiser in an export house. Describe the process of preparation of Time and Action (TNA) Plan spread sheet List the various approvals needed from a buyer and the role of export merchandiser. Describe the types of testing and their significance in quality assurance. Describe batch planning process, and the role of export merchandiser. Outline quality audits and the final statistical audit. Outline vendor compliance and its importance. Describe the vessel planning for shipping the goods. 10.1Sourcing The nature of export merchandising consists of three types functions, co-ordination, follow up and facilitation. The basic functions of an export merchandiser are to: Co-ordinate, Follow up and Facilitate. Basic Functions of the Export Merchandiser The merchandiser plays a central role in an export house. Here by export house we generally mean garment manufacture exports. From the time the order is given by the buyer till the time it is shipped out and reaching buyer s warehouse, export merchandiser needs to co-ordinate with various internal departments on one hand and with buyer or buying house merchants on the other hand. This co-ordination role is very crucial and important to ensure that the order is produced and shipped on time with required quality and quantity, thus, ensuring the Right Product, Right Price, Right Time and Right Place. The Export merchandiser needs to follow up the status of all the orders that he is responsible. Follow up is very crucial for timely detection of delays or problems that would create delays in producing and shipping orders. Regular and daily follow up of status of all the orders is one the important part of export merchandiser s role. The next logical function of the export merchandiser is to facilitate the process. If he or she sees any problem during follow up, immediate action to solve the problem is required to be done. If the fabric is getting delayed then
use the cushion time in the plan. If that is exceeded, then see how production can be hastened by increasing the number of batches so that order can be shipped before cancel date. Each problem may require a new solution as it may or may not have precedent. 10.2 TNA Spreadsheet Information One of the foremost and primary functions of the export merchandiser is to prepare a time and action plan for the all actions required for successful execution of the manufacture export order received from the buyer. The action plan includes time lines for various approvals to be taken from the buyer or buying house, various sourcing activities like fabric etc., cutting, sewing and finishing of garments, packing, various quality audits, shipping etc., Factors Influencing TNA Various sourcing operations, approval activities and garmenting and logistic operations and their timelines would influence the TNA. TNA is very significant for export merchandiser because it provides basic framework of time action and basis for follow up function of the export merchandiser. 10.3 Approvals from Buyers An export merchandiser needs to get various approvals from the buyer or buying house merchants. These include: Proto samples, Size set samples, Fabric samples, Pre-production approvals, and Trim approvals. Proto Samples Proto samples are the very first set of sample or samples made as per buyer specifications and measurements. This is usually made using substitute fabric which is close to original intended fabric in terms of count, construction and texture. Size Set Samples Size set samples are a set of one sample in each of the sizes that are going to be made. These are generally made from the original fabric using the initial fabric received from the Fabric supplier. Fabric Samples When developing a new fabric as per the artwork and colour standards given by the buyer, a fabric sample is developed and sent to the buyer for approval. It may be approved in one go or may go for many revisions before final approval is given. In case of yarn Dyed fabric the sample is called Table Loom (T/L), in case of solid dyed fabrics the sample is called Lab Dip (L/D), in case of prints the sample is called Strike Off (S/O).
Pre-production Approvals A set of samples incorporating the revisions suggested by the buyer in proto sample and size set samples are sent for buyer approval, before starting with bulk production of garments. This is known as pre-production samples. Some buyers may alternately go for pilot run with buyer s quality auditors monitoring the same for quality and giving necessary suggestions to the production team. Trim Approvals A buyer may insist on approving various trims such as threads, labels, Zippers, buttons, lace or the embroidery work. These trims may be sent to the buyer approval as suggested, before starting the production of the garments. 10.4 Testing Requirements Testing of piece goods as well as final garments is an important requirement by the buyers. Many of the buyers require that the testing is done by a third party lab indicated by the buyer and the lab sends one copy of the report directly to the buyer. Patent Defects and Latent Defects Patent defects are those defects which can be detected by the naked human eye through inspection. For example, defects like missing pick, hole in the fabric etc. Latent defects are those defects which cannot be detected by naked human eye but will be detected to through usage or lab testing. For example, defects like colour fading to light, low durability etc., Testing is required to find out the latent defects which are not visible to naked eye but will come out with usage of the product. In order to ensure that the products made by the vendors do not have latent defects in them buyers are now insisting on the testing. Piece goods (fabrics) are tested before bulk production of garments. Fabrics are tested for various latent defects like colour bleeding, low colourfast to light, low fabric strength etc. The fabric sample is sent to the testing lab from the initial lot received from the fabric supplier. Garments are also tested for parameters like seam strength, fabric strength in the garment etc. Garment samples from the initial production lot are sent to the lab for testing. 10.5 Production Planning Batch Plan Batch plan is the plan of what style or order would run on what days and for how many days. It is made batch wise and days wise.
So it would indicate what order would run on a given production batch on a particular day. This may be generally made for three future months. Batch plan would be subject to availability of fabrics and trims. It also requires that all requisite approvals are in place before the start date of batch plan. Batch plan is prepared based on the expected dates of farics and trims reaching the factory warehouse. Cut Plan In garment manufacture and export house sewing is the central activity. Once the batch plan is made the plans for all other activities is made based on batch plan. Cut plan is made as per batch plan. The order and quantity which is to be sewn is cut two to three days before its batch plan sewing day. Accordingly, cut plan is made. Cut plan precedes sewing plan or batch plan. Fabric is cut and then ticketing and bundling is done and then sent to sewing section one day before it is to be sewn. Finishing and Packing Plan Finishing follows sewing. So, finishing and packing plan follows sewing plan. What is planned to sew today is planned for finishing and packing for tomorrow. Similarly, the entire finishing and packing plan follows sewing plan, may be with one day cushion. Embroidery Plan If there is embroidery on the garment, then there is need to plan embroidery plan also. Mostly embroidery is done after cutting and before sewing. Accordingly, embroidery plan precedes sewing plan and succeeds cutting plan. So planning done such way that the quantity that is cut, embroidered and sewn per day tallies. Wash Plan If the order involves washing (denim wash or softener wash etc.) then wash plan also made. Washing is done after sewing and before finishing. So wash plan follows sewing plan. What is sewn today is planned for washing tomorrow. It may use in house or out sourced washing capacity. Wash plan precedes finishing plan. Vessel Planning Vessel planning involves planning for shipping for goods. Based on the planned completion of packing final quality inspection, ship date is planned and shipping capacity is booked. Based on the cancel date and order completion dates, plan is made for feeder vessel and connecting mother vessel which is reaching destination before cancel date. This vessel plan is done by shipping department. 10.6 Quality Assurance
Fabric Checking Quality assurance will start with giving necessary quality specifications to fabric and trim vendors. The fabric is checked for patent defects through fabric inspection. The fabric is checked by well-trained checkers, who will spot patent defects and segregate second quality fabric. Some exporters do have in house testing lab to randomly check latent defects in the fabrics received from suppliers. Cutting Quality Check The cut pieces are checked for quality of cutting by comparing it with the pattern parts. Cutting quality can be evaluated by its compliance with pattern parts. Good quality cutting is important for good sewing quality. Du Pro Inspection During process or during production inspection is done by the roaming quality checkers in the production lines. They randomly check production pieces for quality. End of Line Checking End of line checking is one major quality gate keeping point. All the pieces sewn are screened for quality at the end of the production line before they are sent to finishing. Required pieces are rectified. This is one important quality gate keeping point. Checking in the Finishing Each and every piece is thoroughly checked for defects in the finishing stage. Stain removing and mending are the major activities in finishing stage. Each piece is checked for defects before ironing and packing. Final Statistical Audit Final statistical audit is the final check done by the buyer s representative. Pieces are selected as per the statistical audit plan based on the packed quantity. A buyer s representative will give passed inspection certificate only if the packed order passes quality audit. This is the final quality check in the factory before goods are sent for shipping. 10.7 Vendor Compliance Vendor compliance to vendor code of conduct is an important process to get orders from a buyer. If a garment factory has to get orders from specific buyer, then it is essential that the factory is inspected and rated for its suitability to produce orders for that buyer. Once a factory gets rating and approval to do a particular buyer s orders then the factory is expected to maintain the code of
conduct of the buyer. The code conduct is primarily related to human resources practices and also to infrastructure. Vendor compliance is very particular on HR practices. It requires that the vendor does not employ child labour, pays minimum wages, provide safe, ventilated and well lighted working place. A vendor should provide safe drinking water, clean toilets, first aid facility and training, fire exits and fire drills, crushes etc. The vendor is expected to provide safe infrastructure. Cutters are to be provided with safety metallic gloves. A vendor is expected to possess state of the art machinery required to produce world-class products. 10.8 Conclusion To summarize, in this unit you have learnt about the role and functions of a merchandiser in an export house.