Woodland Creek Series Self-Adhesive Residential Vinyl Plank Pattern Numbers: Sku 725-6664 PLK1102 Sable Sku 725-6666 PLK1106 Gray Wolf DO-IT-YOURSELF SELF ADHESIVE PLANK INSTALLATION MATERIALS YOU MAY NEED: Latex floor preparation to seal subfloor and prevent bond failure (do not use paint primer/sealers) Portland based patch/underlayment/embossing leveler to repair cracks and level surface Measuring tape and chalk line Sharp utility knife and straight edge Shears or tin snips for cutting around irregular or circular shaped objects Extra planks make sure you purchase at least 10% extra to cover mistakes or for possible future replacements and repairs Safety glasses Floor roller Suitable Areas: Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, entryways and rec rooms. Suitable Surfaces: Smooth surfaces that are dry, flat, level, structurally sound and rigid. Clean surfaces that are free of dust, dirt, grease, paint, varnish, oils, solvents, old adhesive residue, carpet staples, and moisture. Smooth-surface, well-bonded resilient floors. Concrete floors on or above grade that are dry, and free of dust, solvents, grease and oil. New concrete must be thoroughly dry and cured for at least six weeks. Painted floors where floor is not in contact with the earth and paint is firmly bonded. Wood floors with sanded plywood underlayment. Make sure that the plywood has been sealed with a latex floor primer. Do not use paint primers. Unsuitable Surfaces: Particleboard, chipboard, hardboard, OSB, or flakeboard. Concrete surfaces below grade where moisture may be a problem. Heavily embossed resilient floors unless the embossed surface is filled with a suitable Portland based patch underlayment or embossing leveler. Carpet Cushioned, or no-wax resilient floors. Planks are not recommended to lay over underfloor heating.
CONCRETE SUBFLOOR MOISTURE TESTING PROCEDURE: If you are unsure whether moisture (hydrostatic pressure) is a problem, cut a few 2 sq. ft. squares of polyethylene film and duct tape them to several areas of the concrete subfloor. Wait about 72 hours and then lift up the corner of each test square. If the plastic is dry, then moisture is within the acceptable levels. If there is condensation on the underside of the plastic, or if the floor beneath is damp, then the moisture level may not be acceptable. ACCLIMATION: Store the planks flat (not on ends or sides) in the same room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours prior to installation. Make sure the room temperature is between 65 degrees and 85 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 48 hours prior to installation, during installation and for the life of the floor. PREPARING THE SUBFLOOR Concrete Floors Concrete must be clean and free of moisture. Remove all dirt, grease, paint or old tile adhesive. Do not damp mop as moisture will stay in concrete for many weeks. Sweep and vacuum floor thoroughly. Fill all cracks and holes with a suitable Portland based latex crack filler per manufacturer s instructions. Apply latex floor primer (per manufacturer s instructions). Never install self-stick vinyl planks over unsealed concrete regardless of grade level. Failure to use latex floor primer over unsealed concrete voids your warranty. Wood Floors Wood floors must be clean and free of dirt, dust, varnish, paint, grease and waxes. Screw down any loose boards in preparation for plywood underlayment. Cover subfloor with flooring grade minimum ¼ thick plywood sanded on one side. Countersink staple or nail heads and fill holes and joints with Portland based latex crack filler. Sweep and vacuum the floor thoroughly, then apply latex floor preparation per manufacturer s instructions. Old Floor Coverings Planks may be installed directly over any well-bonded, smooth surface resilient floors after removing all wax or any other coatings. Planks should not be installed over cushioned floor materials. Planks should not be installed over heavily embossed tiles unless the embossing has been filled in with a suitable Portland based leveler. WARNING: Do not sand existing resilient floor, as the dust may contain harmful asbestos fibers. Patching or Leveling Patch, fill, level and smooth any holes, cracks or surface irregularities. Make sure that the floor is smooth, flat, clean and completely free of wax, grease, oil or dust before laying the planks. Any roughness or unevenness in the subfloor may eventually show through, detracting from the genuine appearance of your floor as well as cause excessive wearing in those areas. After patching, seal the surface with a suitable latex floor primer.
BEFORE INSTALLING PLANKS: Flooring should be one of the last items installed in any remodeling or new construction project. Planks should only be installed in a temperature controlled environment. HVAC must be operating before, during, and after installation for the life of the floor. Planks and the room where the planks are being installed must be maintained at a stable temperature of around 65 F-85 F for at least 48 hours prior to, during and after installation. Installed planks must always be maintained at a stable, controlled temperature of between 65 F and 85 F year round for the life of the product. Please bear in mind, in the winter a concrete floor can be up to 10 F colder than the room temperature. FOR BEST VISUAL RESULTS: 1) Mix planks from several different boxes to avoid installing planks with similar patterns/colors/shades next to each other. A little time spent carefully selecting and mixing planks from several different boxes will significantly reduce the effect of any shade variations as well as increase the authenticity and beauty of your floor. 2) Lay the long dimension of the planks parallel to the long dimension of the room. 3) Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger the end joints by at least 6 from row to row. 4) Before installation, in a well-lit room, carefully inspect each plank for damages, blemishes, and visual defects. Do not cut or install planks that are visually objectionable. For visual faults or defects: installation constitutes acceptance. INSTALLING PLANKS Planks and room to be installed must be maintained at a stable temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) for 48 hours before and after installation and for the product life. 1) Remove wood moldings around the perimeter of the floor so that the plank can be placed underneath during installation. 2) Find the center of the room by snapping a chalk line from center points of opposite walls. The center of your room will be where the chalk lines intersect (see Illustration #1). Use chalk lines as a guide for laying your planks. It is important that the chalk lines intersect at a 90 degree angle.
3) Lay a row of loose planks (do not remove paper) along the chalk lines starting at the center and working toward the wall. 4) If the distance between the wall and edge of the last full plank is less than half a plank (2 ), strike a new chalk line about 2 from the previous chalk line to establish your starting point (see Illustration #2). This will eliminate small cuts around the edges, leave a uniform border, and maintain a balanced lay out. 5) Remove release paper from the back of each plank as you install it. WARNING: The release paper has a slippery surface. To avoid accidents, place release paper in a suitable receptacle as it is removed. Do not walk or stand on pieces of release paper or loose plank. Start placing the planks at the center point or adjusted center point, following the chalk lines. Do not slide planks into place. Set planks in place at a slight angle to the floor. Butt each plank squarely to the adjoining plank and press firmly. 6) Install planks over one half of the floor at a time, working out from the center in a row by row fashion (see Illustration #3). Do not install cut planks around the edges of the room until the entire main floor has been covered. Trimmed border planks may be installed after the rest of the floor has been completed. 7) To fit planks around obstacles, make a pattern of the area on paper, trace the pattern onto the plank and cut. Leave the release paper on the plank and cut with the paper side up using scissors or a straight edge and a knife.
8) The planks may be cut with a sharp utility knife. To fit a partial plank, first place a loose plank (B) directly over the last whole plank (A) closest to the wall. Then butt another plank (C) against the wall overlapping plank (B) and mark plank (B) where it is to be cut (see Illustration #4). Do not cut on floor, as you may cut through and damage new planks. Check to see if the fit is acceptable, then remove release paper and set plank (B) into place. 9) IMPORTANT: For best results, pressure roll the entire floor in both directions (90 degrees) within 30 minutes after installation using a floor roller. 10) When you are done, install moldings over the planks. When installing the moldings, always fasten them to the wall, not to the plank. Customer Service 1-855-472-3567 HSC 2017