TO DIMINISH ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT. Dr. Sue D. Wagner Director of Environmental Technology Ciba-Geigy Corporation

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1 IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCTS AND PROCESSING TO DIMINISH ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Dr. Sue D. Wagner Director of Environmental Technology Ciba-Geigy Corporation COTTECH CONFERENCE 1993 Cotton Incorporated Raleigh Marriott Crabtree Valley November I 1-1 2, 1993

2 PRODUCTS and PROCESSES TO REDUCE THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF TEXTILE PROCESSING

3 \cj.<. _-.. I. I tons 33.6 pounds * 4.6! ! ! *decade of 198 s record year of USA Made 64 Yo 63% 63% 62% 62% 6% 59% COTTECH Cod swioig3

4 - v I A n 3 Izo m (I

5 Industw Rank Total %Air %Water %POTW %Land %Ground Chemicals 1 12.OB Paper 2 2.8B Textiles M Leather OM Apparel M * Source 1987 Toxic Release Inventory; B- Billion, M- Million COTTECti Con! swio 93

6 a, IC CI I. C > Ill Ill cn c CI co S - 1 co cn a L n a, N cv - - a, Io a I S --I_. a, 3 LI LI u

7 Water Consumption and Pollution Process Desizing Scouring Bleaching Mercerizing Dyeing Print i ri g Washing -off Finishing Water Consumption dl/ka) -% Approximate BOD-5 (mq/l) - YO Load Yo > < c

8 b e Wastewater Methods for Treatment -..A,, 2 f P I UI IOLOGICAL - Aerobic Activated Sludge - Anaerobic Treatment.COAGULATION/FLOCCULATION - Metal Hydroxides/Salts - Organic Polymers BIOPHYSICAL METHOD.ADSORPTION METHOD - PACT Process CHEMICAL METHODS - Reduction Sodium Hydrosulfite - Carbon Adsorption - Macroeticular Resins - Ion Exchange Resins.MEMBRANE TECHNOLOGY - Oxidation - Reverse Osmosis Ozone Hydrogen Peroxide Chlorine Bleaches Wet Air Oxidation - U It raf ilt rat ion.electrochemical METHODS

9 d.'. r.,* i i Metals Color in Effluent Water Volume Electrolytes D ye/c h em ica Is B iod e g rada b i I it y COTTECH Cotif sw 1'93

10 .. Dve Class Direct Dyes Tvpical Metal in Structure* Copper Fiber Reactive Dyes Copper, Nickel Vat Dyes None * Does not imply all Sulf u r/su If u r-vat Dyes (Zinc?) dyes have metal Disperse Dyes None * Other tramp may Basic Dyes (Zinc?) Acid [)yes Copper, Chrome, Cobalt Premetallized Dyes Copper, Chrome, Cobalt Mordant Dyes Chrome be detected

11 Noncopper Containing Direct and Solophenyl Direct Dyes Flavine 7GFF Yellow ARL 154 Orange TGL 182 Red HT Red 4G Scarlet BNL 2 Blue GL 25 Blue FGL 22 Black FG 25 Cibacron Reactive Dyes Yellow F-4G Yellow F-3R Orange F-R Scarlet F-3 G Scarlet F-HP Red F-B Navy F-G Navy F-4RA Black C-R

12 d (.... Dyeclass % Fixation A *. Acid Azoic Direct _ :2 Metal-Complex dyes on Wool Reactive (Conventional) Sulphur Vat _

13 Cellulosic Dyes are Largest Contributor Cibacron C Dyes - Low Liquor Ratio Exhaust Dyeing - Pad Batch Dyeing - Continuous Dyeing Process Optimization - Maximizing Exhaustion/Fixation COTTECH Conf sw1193

14 Optimizing Existing Pretreatment, Dyeing, and Postreatment Processes Selecting Dyes of Highest Exhaustion and Fixation Modify the Cellulosic Fiber New Reactive Dye Chemistry COTTECl I Conf sw iom

15 Variety of Reactive Dye C. I. Reactive Yellow 3 Yellow 161 Orange 2 Orange 7 Red 12 Red 141 Blue 52 Blue 198 Percent Fixation * *Exhaust application at IO: I bath ratio COTTECH Conf swl/93

16 s Q) e 5 S -\ c, a L== 2 a S L (EI a U l c) a, ) S Ca 6 (3 cv I n a, CT [r c) a, 3 m * S

17 Conventional Cold Reactive Solophenyl P re bleac h Bleach-Dye Gain Lot Size (pounds) 1,76 1, Water (gal I on s) 26,4 12,4 14, Steam (pounds) 1,189 5,4 4,789 Cycle Time (Hours) Productivity 33,347 6,342 26,995 (poundd6 days) COTTECH Con1 swio/g3

18 -. Lot Size (pounds) P re bleach Overflow Wash Prebleach Drop-fill Wash Gain ~~ 1,32 1, Water (gallons) 27,72 21,12 6,6 Cycle Time (Hours) (.4) Productivity 27,154 25,686 (1,468) (pouinds/6 days)

19 . - i;; 3 1. Postbleach Cotton Cibacron@ F Cibacron F rebleach Postbleach Gain Lot Size (pounds) 1,32 1, Water (gallons) 15,84 9,24 6,6 Steam (pounds) 7,92 2,64 5,28 Cycle Time (Hours) Productivity 27,154 42,24 15,86 (pounds/6 days)

20 Low Liquor Ratio Dyeing Conventional* Reactives at Cibacron C 1:l Bath Ratio 51 Bath Ratio Gain Lot Size (Ibs.) 1,32 1, Water (gals.) 12,24 5,688 6,552 Cycle (Ihrs.) Day 'Week (Ibs.) 21,12 46,361 25,241 * Based on hot-dyeing fiber reactive dyes

21 . Conventional* Greige 2-Bath Pad-Batch Prescour Reverse Gain Lot Size (Ibs.) 1,76 1, Water (gals.) 48,928 14,8 34,848 Steam (Ibs.) 2,351 6,793 13,558 Cycle Time (hrs.) Productivity 21,478 6,343 38,865 (lbs./6 days) (1 -Pad) * Based on hot-dyeing fiber reactive dyes COTTECti Cctif,w1 33

22 c )r I m m > m m I cb. a S a > u.- w S ICT S a, Q a, n C m-. x a,. a, L 3 3 LL 3 3 LL I L '

23 Consumer Awareness.. 7-7% would Choose 3% would Pay More - 2% Added-Value COTTECH Corif sw1193

24 u.. Environmental Marketing., -. Natural Dyes No/Little Chemical Processing Low Impact Dyes (High Fixation) Organically Grown Cotton Naturally-Colored Cotton Combination of the Above

25 ii d... - Dlrnnnmr Burlington Industries - Green Vista@ Dixie - Earthwise@ and Naturewise@ Dyersburg Fabrics = EcosporP Vanity Fair = Wear" Signal Apparel Spectrum COTTECH Conf swloi93

26 2 F c) W I 6 c) W I- K L W I - I- U L c) W v) v) 3 a L G.- > a, I c, cr) a a, c i z S a t a, c S a, > a,.-.c, 5 c3 c,

27 Li CI. - CRI Green Tag I German Assoc. for Use of Friendly Textiles Green Cross Green Seal IJnion of Environment - Friendly Carpeting Oko-Tex Standard 1 (Europe) Efco-Tex (Europe) COTTECH Cor11 swio::).?

28 Daily Environmental FAXLINE Eart hwatch Environmental Business Journal Green Marketing Alert Green Marketing Report GSD&M Green Reader Seventh Generation Green Consumer Report

29 cn U 2 U S a. t a, L. 3 c) aa> >a, D I D c c. U I cn U L a U S a. cn. S a, L a, I L. - 1

30 . -' mmental Protection egrated Approach 1 Dve/C hem ical Mfur. Product Development - High Exhaustion - Low: Toxicity COD Metal Content Process Development - Reproducible/Robust - Low Liquor Amounts - Less Chemicals - Shorter Dyeing Time - Lower Temperatures - Dyebath Reuseable Textile Processor Optimize: - Product Selection - Formulations - Processes - Housekeeping Recycle Wherever Possible Implement Effective Waste Treatment Communicate Efforts & Successes Authorities Cooperate with Industry to Develop Rational Solutions Do Not Force Export of Envi ron men ta I Problems Educate Population re: RisWBenefit of Required Technologies COTTECtI Corif A g j

31 1. Create an Environmental Focus Team 2. Assess Where You Are!, Where You Need To Be! and Where You Want To Be! 3. Include Suppliers and Customers - Audit your Process 4. Develop Action Program and Measure Achievements COTTECH Conl.swiO/93

32 HANDLE WITH R E I P O N I I B L E CARE COTTECH Conf sw1'93

33 Determine the concept of Green for industrial dyes and chemicals consistent with national and international standards Continuously update toxicological and ecological information on material safety data sheets for our products whether it is compulsory or not Establish EnviroCareO in the Market as a Strong Supporting Pillar in our Service Concept

34 . t 4 h Vision 2 By striking a balance between our environmental, social, and economic responsibilities, we want to ensure the prosperity of our enterprise and related industries beyond the year 2. COTTECH Coril swioi93 93

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