ADM4307 Apparel Manufacturing Dr. Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D., Associate Professor
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1 ADM4307 Apparel Manufacturing Dr. Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D., Associate Professor
2 Example (Assortment plans): p.77 Case 3-1 Cartwheels and Figure 3-9 Assortment plan A, B, and C are suggested for different square feet: 150, 100, and 50. Given numbers: Average price for tops :$20 Planned annual volume: $12,500 Distribution of sales: Spring (15%), Summer (10%),BTS (60%), and Holiday (15%). BTS volume: $12,500 x 60%= $7,500 ($7500/$20=375 units) BTS VSA (Volume per SKU for an assortment): 375 units /120 SKU = 3.13
3 See Assortment plan C Variety (120 SKU) = 4 styles x 6 sizes x 5 colors. Number of styles, sizes, colors (factors) are based on last year record. 4 Styles (%), 40% +30%+20%+10% =100% Table 3-1 volume per assortment factor Style1: 40% x 375 =150 units per style Size3 (Size 8, sold well last year): 36% x 375= 135 units per size Table 3-2 Volume per SKU, Style 1 (150 units) See column Color 1, Size 1: 150 units (style 1) x 9% x 35% =4.725 = 5
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5 Product standards: Apparel manufacturers & retailers establish standards for quality, performance, and fit. Standards reflect the quality level. Standards (4 types): International National Industry Company Major standards: ISO (International Organization for Standardization) ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) AATCC ( American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists)
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7 Quality standards: part of a firm s standard operating procedure, product development and production Intrinsic cues To provide consistency. Size and fit standards: How to measure -> Basic pattern blocks -> Standard grade rules establish: Differences in dimensions and proportion for each size
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9 Performance standards (2 types) : Performance of materials Performance of finished products To be valid, it must meet the needs of both the firm and consumer. Aesthetics, end use, and care of finished products. Standards and Specifications: Standards are used in developing specifications. Brief written descriptions of materials, procedures, dimensions, and performance for a particular style. Example: Basis of contracts.
10 Communicating specific product descriptions between: Buyers and sellers products NOTE: Wholesale and retail catalogs are used to communicate product specifications among buyers (e.g. Consumers) and sellers. Manufacturers and contractors Management and production workers Designers, pattern maker, sample makers Among divisions
11 Developing product consistency in the line or product lines. Consistency of appearance, fit, quality, performance. Specifications for fit are sets of measurements of each size. (Based on Size Standards). Negotiating bids, contracts, and licensing Used to purchase a contractor s service (Requirements of a style, example: stitches) Establish the basis for bidding. Licensing agreement can be part of specification.
12 Design specs (see Figure 6-9, p.182): First phase. Vary, can be informal or formal. Examples: Sketch, description, top stitching, fabric treatment, detail placement, construction features, etc. Communicated between designer and first pattern maker/sample maker. Style specs (see Figure 6-11, p.190): After line adoption, specs are communicated to production pattern makers, marker makers, cutters, sewing operators, and finishers. Engineering specs: Developed during production planning process. Interpret style specs in terms of necessary equipment, handing procedures, & quality systems. Specifications establish minimum requirements.
13 Tolerances: Allow variation from the specified value in specifications. The less variation (tolerances) the more consistency. Increase quality standards, tolerances are reduced. Rigid specifications: Means 0 or very slight tolerances. Apparel products are more satisfactory when realistic tolerances.
14 A second /or reject: A product does not meet specifications. Defects or/ flaws Product testing (Table 4-2) Floor Ready Specifications Retailers have lists of specifications communicating their floorready requirements. Examples: hanger style, size, type of bag, labels. Prepared by the vendors Example problems: Delay, wrong hangers, price tickets, etc.
15 Apparel professionals in many different roles are involved in marketing decisions. Choose up to 3 apparel professionals (from p.112~121) that you believe that your skills match or you desire to be. List from the most desire /or confident area then, explain each role that you expect.
16 Garment analysis Who does? Consumers and apparel professionals do. Why? To satisfy consumers needs. What are the target consumers priorities? aesthetics, price, and value, What aspects of apparel serviceability are of particular concern to consumers? comfort, durability, care, functional use, etc. Do customers focus on intrinsic or extrinsic cues?
17 Quality standards Examine Products (from a business perspective) Examine Products (Production) No Alternative products Yes Develop products and marketed Yes Release products to target market Factors: Intrinsic Extrinsic depending on the purpose of the analysis
18 Visual inspection Augmented visual inspection Example: Home laundry, measuring equipments Laboratory analysis ASTM or AATCC
19 Garment analysis is to meet particular business needs: Consider cost a garment and quality. Strategic plan for product lines. Garment analysis guide (see Figure 5-1, p. 127): 1.Style description 2.Positioning strategy 3.Sizing and fit 4.Materials selection 5.Components assembly 6.Final assembly and finishing 7.Style presentation
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