DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD

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DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD DUS 1655-2 First Edition 2016-mm-dd Footwear

1 DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD DUS First Edition 2016-mm-dd Footwear Ladies shoes Specifications Part 2: Open shoes DUS :2016 UNBS 2016

2 DUS1655-2:2016 Compliance with this standard does not; of itself confer immunity from legal obligations A Uganda Standard does not purport to include all necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application UNBS 2016 All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without prior written permission from UNBS. Requests for permission to reproduce this document should be addressed to The Executive Director Uganda National Bureau of Standards P.O. Box 6329 Kampala Uganda Tel: Fax: info@unbs.go.ug Web: ii UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

3 DUS :2016 Contents Page Foreword... iv 1 Scope Normative references Definitions... 8 Requirements General requirements Material requirements Uppers Upper lining Bottom/sole Heel and top Piece Stiffener and toe Puff Insole and sock Whole shoe assembly Workmanship and finish Workmanship Trimming Edge trimming Burnishing Defects Laces Marking Footwear Carton Bale Packing ANNEX A: (Normative) SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY A1. DEFINITIONS A2. SCALE OF SAMPLING A3. METHOD OF SELECTION Bibliography UNBS 2016 All rights reserved iii

4 DUS1655-2:2016 Foreword Uganda National Bureau of Standards (UNBS) is a parastatal under the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Cooperatives established under Cap 327, of the Laws of Uganda, as amended. UNBS is mandated to coordinate the elaboration of standards and is (a) a member of International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) and (b) a contact point for the WHO/FAO Codex Alimentarius Commission on Food Standards, and (c) the National Enquiry Point on TBT Agreement of the World Trade Organisation (WTO). The work of preparing Uganda Standards is carried out through Technical Committees. A Technical Committee is established to deliberate on standards in a given field or area and consists of representatives of consumers, traders, academicians, manufacturers, government and other stakeholders. Draft Uganda Standards adopted by the Technical Committee are widely circulated to stakeholders and the general public for comments. The committee reviews the comments before recommending the draft standards for approval and declaration as Uganda Standards by the National Standards Council. iv UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

5 DUS :2016 Introduction This draft Uganda Standard intends to give specifications for ladies open shoes. It will assist footwear manufacturers and merchants in getting value for their products. In addition it will give the general consumers of the product bases to choose the products from an informed state. The main purpose of this standard therefore is to provide a basis for evaluating the quality of ladies open shoes UNBS 2016 All rights reserved v

7 DUS :2016 Footwear Ladies shoes Specification: Part 1: open shoes 1 Scope This draft Uganda Standard specifies the requirements and test methods for ladies open shoes made from all types of materials and of all constructions and designs. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. ISO 19952, Footwear-Vocabulary US ISO 907, Shoes sizes-mondopoint system of sizing and marking ISO 2589, Leather-Physical and mechanical tests-determination of thickness ISO 17706, Footwear-Test methods for uppers-tensile strength and elongation US ISO 3376, Leather-Physical and mechanical tests-determination of tensile strength and percentage elongation ISO 17696, Footwear-Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks-tear strength US ISO 116, Leather-Test for adhesion of finish ISO 17700, Footwear-Test methods for uppers, linings and insocks-colour fastness to rubbing ISO 17699, Footwear-Test methods for uppers and lining-water vapour permeability and absorption ISO , Leather-Chemical determination of chromic oxide content by titration US ISO 203, Personal protective equipment-test methods for footwear US ISO 05, Leather-Chemical tests-determination of Ph US ISO 08, Leather-Chemical tests-determination of matter soluble in dichloromethane and free fatty acid content ISO 07, Leather-Determination of sulphated total ash and sulphated water insoluble ash ISO 098, Leather-Chemical tests-determination of water soluble matter, water soluble inorganic matter and water soluble organic matter US ISO 3380, Leather-Physical and mechanical tests-determination of shrinkage temperature upto 100 o c US ISO 105-B02, Textiles-Tests for colour fastness to artificial light ISO 1162, Leather-Tests for colour fastness-colour fastness to water vii

8 ISO 20869, Footwear-Test method for outsoles, insoles, linings and insocks-water soluble content ISO , Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic-determination of indentation hardness ISO 2265, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-tensile strength and elongation ISO 17707, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-flex resistance ISO 20865, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-compression energy ISO 20875, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-determination of split tear strength and delamination resistance ISO 2087, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-needle tear strength US ISO 13287, Personal protective equipment-footwear test method for slip resistance US ISO 68, Leather-Chemical tests-determination of volatile matter ISO , Leather-Chemical determination of metal content ISO 692, Protection against heat and fire-evaluation of materials and material assemblies when exposed to a source of radiant heat ISO 3378, Leather-Physical and mechanical tests-determination of resistance to grain cracking and grain crack index ISO 20876, Footwear-Test methods for insoles-resistance to stitch tear ISO 2269, Footwear-Test methods for insoles and insocks-water absorption and desorption ISO , Textiles-Test methods for non wovens-determination of thickness US ISO 17708, Footwear-Test methods for whole shoe-upper sole adhesion ISO 17697, Footwear-Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks-seam strength ISO 17702, Footwear-Test methods for uppers-water resistance ISO 20871, Footwear-Test methods for outsoles-abrasion resistance ISO 22650, Footwear-Test methods for whole shoe-heel attachment ASTM D6182, Flexibility and Adhesion of finish on Leather ASTM D6020, Calculation of (Non mineral) Combined Tanning Agents and Degree of tannage 3 Definitions For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given in ISO and the following definitions shall apply: 3.1 pu coated leather leather with a coating of polyurethane viii UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

9 3.2 pvc coated textiles textiles with a coating of polyvinylchloride 3.3 synthetic materials materials made of PU, PVC and other synthetic materials which are used as natural leather substitute Requirements.1 General requirements The method of construction shall follow the principle applicable for that type. The sizing and fitting shall be in accordance with US ISO Material requirements.2.1 Uppers The upper characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table Upper lining The upper lining characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table Bottom/sole The bottom/sole characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3.2. Heel and top Piece The heel and top piece characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table.2.5 Stiffener and toe Puff The stiffener and toe puff characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table Insole and sock The insole and sock characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table Whole shoe assembly The whole shoe assembly characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 7 5 Workmanship and finish 5.1 Workmanship The footwear shall be manufactured in accordance with sound manufacturing practice. UNBS 2016 All rights reserved ix

10 5.2 Trimming Unless the heel seats are of the extended type, heels shall be trimmed smooth to the heel seats. 5.3 Edge trimming The sole edges (other than pre-moulded outer sole and heel units) shall be trimmed smooth, stitched down construction shall be so trimmed that the distance beyond the outside of the stitching on the flanged portion of the upper is not less than 1.5 mm. 5. Burnishing In leather footwear, the leather exposed at the sides of the heels and at the edges of the bottom shall be stained, well waxed, set and polished. 5.5 Defects Inner soles, runners and linings shall be free from protruding grinderies, roughness and pleats inside the shoe. 5.6 Laces Each pair of lace-up shoes shall be provided with one pair of laces 6 Marking 6.1 Footwear a) At the waist of the sole, the size/fitting number of footwear shall be legibly and indelibly marked. b) On the sock the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked: i) Manufacturer s name and/or registered trade mark ii) Size/fitting number of footwear iii) Country of manufacture/origin c) On the quarters or the tongue the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked: i) Manufacturer s name and/or registered trade mark ii) Batch number iii) Size/fitting number of footwear d) On either the waist of the sole, the sock or the quarter, the manufacturer s name or registered trade mark shall be legibly and indelibly marked. 6.2 Carton Each box shall bear the following information legibly and indelibly marked: i) Size of footwear ii) Manufacturer s name or registered trade mark x UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

11 iii) Colour of footwear iv) Country of origin/manufacture v) Art identification number 6.3 Bale Each bale shall bear the following information legibly and indelibly marked: i) Name of product ii) Quantity iii) Net weight iv) Name of manufacturer or local supplier s name and/or registered trade mark v) Country of manufacture/origin. 7 Packing Each pair of footwear shall be wrapped in a suitable material and packed in a suitable box that will protect it from damage during normal transportation and storage Characte ristics Leathe r Table 1 Upper material characteristics and requirements PU coated leather Textile s Materials and requirements PU coated textiles PVC coated textiles EVA/MCR PU PVC Other materials (Include composite) (1) (2) (3) () (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) Thicknes s (mm), Tensile strength (MPa), Elongatio n at break, (%), Max Test method ISO ISO & US ISO ISO & US ISO 3376 Tear strength (N), ISO Rub fastness (Grey scale), 3 3 ISO dry UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xi

12 wet Adhesion to finish, N/cm, US ISO 116 Break pipeness (BP scale), max. 3 Breaking load (N/mm), Chrome content, %, max. ISO Water vapour permeabi lity, mg/cm 2 h, ISO Water vapour coefficien t (mg/cm 2 ), US ISO 203 Martindal e abrasion (revolutio ns) dry US ISO 203 wet ph value, US ISO 05 ph differenc e, max US ISO 05 Fat content, (% m/m), 3 3 US ISO 08 Total ash, (%), max ISO 07 xii UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

13 Total water soluble, (%), max ISO 098 Shrinkag e, (%), max US ISO 3380 Light fastness, (blue wool standard s), US ISO 105-B02 Wash fastness, (grey scale), ISO 1162 KEY EVA-Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR-Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR-Thermoplastic Rubber, PU-Polyurathane PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride Table 2 Upper lining material characteristics and requirements Characteristic Materials and requirements Test method Leather PVC Textile PU (1) (2) (3) () (5) (6) Thickness (mm), ISO 2589 Tensile strength (MPa), Elongation at break (%), ISO & US ISO 3376 ISO & US ISO 3376 Tear strength (N), ISO Rub fastness (gray scale), dry ISO wet Break pipiness (Bp scale), max. 3 Breaking load (N), 130 Chrome content (%), max. 3.8 ISO Water vapour permeability (mg/cm 2, h), US ISO 203 & ISO Water vapour coefficient (mg/cm 2 ), US ISO 203 UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xiii

14 Martindale abrasion (Revolutions), PH value,.5 dry 000 wet US ISO 203 US ISO 05 Fat content (% m/m), 3 US ISO 08 Total ash (%), max. 5 ISO 07 Total water soluble (%), max US ISO 098 & ISO Shrinkage %, max. 5 5 US ISO 3380 Light fastness (Blue wool standards), US ISO 105-B02 xiv UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

15 Table 3 Bottom/sole material characteristics and requirements Materials and requirements Characteristi c Vulcaniz ed Rubber PVC PU TPR EVA/M CR Leathe r Resin rubber Blown PU Blown PVC Other materials(i ncluding Composite ) Test method (1) (2) (3) () (5) (6) (7) (8) Hardness (IRHD) Specific gravity, max. Tensile strength (MPa) Elongation at break (%), Before ageing After ageing Flex resistance Initial crack (cycles), max. Cut growth at cycles (%), max. Compression set %, max. Split strength tear (N), Stitch tear strength (N/mm), Slip resistance (coefficient of friction), _ (9) (10) (11) (12) ISO ISO 2265 ISO & US ISO 3376 ISO ISO ISO ISO 2087 US ISO UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xv

16 Abrasion loss (mm 3 ), max. Volatility (%), max. Lead Pb (ppm), max. Total ash (%), max ISO US ISO 68 ISO ISO 07 Total water soluble (%), max. ph value, 21 ISO 098 & ISO US ISO 05 ph difference, max. 0.7 US ISO 05 Heat shrinkage (%), max. ISO 692 Degree of tannage, 60 ASTM D6020 Grain cracking on mandrel 3 KEY: No crack EVA-Ethyl Vinyl Acetate, MCR-Micro Cellular Rubber, TPR-Thermoplastic Rubber, PU-Polyurethane PVC-Polyvinyl Chloride ISO 3378 xvi UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

17 Characteristic Table Heel and top piece material characteristics and requirements Top piece Vulcaniz ed Rubber Leather Materials and requirements PVC Heel Resin Rubber PVC TPR Test method Hardness (IRHD) min ISO Specific gravity, max Tensile strength (MPa) ISO 2265 Elongation at break (%), a) Before ageing b) After ageing Flex resistance Initial crack (cycles), max ISO & US ISO 3376 ISO Compression set %, max ISO Slip resistance (coefficient of friction), US ISO Abrasion loss (mm 3 ), max ISO Volatility (%), max. 1 1 US 68 ISO Grain cracking on mandrel 3 No crack ISO 3378 Total ash (%), max ISO 07 Total water soluble (%), max. 21 Degree of tannage (%), 60 Top piece-heel attachment (N), min ISO 098 & ISO ASTM D ISO Table 5 Stiffener and toe puff characteristics and requirements Characteristic Stiffener Requirements Toe puff Test method Hardness (IRHD), ISO Flexibility (cycles), ASTM D6182 Water absorption (%), US ISO 203 & ISO 2269 Resilience (%), Thickness (mm) ISO UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xvii

18 Table 6 Insoles and sock characteristics and requirements Requirements Characteristic Insole Sock Leather board Paper board Leather PVC/PU Test method Thickness (mm), US ISO 203 Water absorption (%), max. Desorption US ISO 203 ISO 2269 Warp flexibility (cycles), ASTM D6182 Shrinkage (%), max. US ISO 3380 Split tear strength (N/mm), 5 5 ISO Insole/sock adhesion (N/mm), US ISO Rub fastness (Grey scale), Wet Dry US ISO 105-B02 ph value, min US ISO 05 ph difference, US ISO 05 Water vapour permeability (mg/cm2h), Coefficient of water vapour permeability g/cm2,, US ISO 203 & ISO US ISO 203 & ISO Table 7 Physical requirements for the whole shoe assembly Characteristic Requirement Test method Sole Adhesion Strength, (N ),minimum Sole Heel Leather PVC/PU Rubber EVA/MCR US ISO Seam strength (N/mm), 20 ISO Water penetration after 5 h, max. Mass change (%), max. None 5 ISO xviii UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

19 Sole bond strength (N/mm), US ISO 203 Finishes Buttons and trims attachment strength (N), 100 Buckle fastening strength (N), 110 Velcro attachment i) Peel strength (N/cm), Initial At cycles ii) Shear strength (N/cm 2), Initial At cycles Shank Accumulated impact strength (J), Bending modulus (N), Resilience (%), UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xix

20 ANNEX A: (Normative) SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY A1. DEFINITIONS A1.1 Lot All footwear pairs in a consignment belonging to the same pattern/design and batch of manufactured shoes delivered or imported. A1.2 Defect A fault or failure of a footwear pair to meet the requirements of this standard. A1.3 Defective Footwear A footwear pair with one or more defects as mentioned in this standard. A2. SCALE OF SAMPLING A2.1 Samples shall be selected and examined for each lot separately for ascertaining the conformity of the footwear to the requirements of this standard. A2.2 Footwear shall be considered to be of different lots if they differ in shape and design. A2.3 The number of footwear pairs to be selected from any lot shall depend on the size of the lot and shall be in accordance with Columns 1 and 2 of Table A1. A3. METHOD OF SELECTION A3.1 Footwear to be selected from the lot shall be chosen at random. To ensure randomness the procedure in A3.2 shall be used. A3.2 When the footwear pairs in a lot are not packed in a number of cases (boxes), the sampling shall be as follows: Starting from any footwear pair in the lot, count the pairs as 1, 2, etc---up to r and so on in one order. Every rth pair thus counted shall be withdrawn to constitute a sample (r is the integral part of N/n where N is the lot size and n is the sample size). This procedure shall be stopped as soon as the required number of pairs is obtained. For example if a sample of 125 pairs is to be selected from a lot of 3,000 pairs, compute r as equal to integral part of 3,000/125=2. Starting from any pair, the footwear shall be counted in one order and every 2th pair shall be withdrawn. A3.3 When the footwear pairs in a lot are packed in different cases (boxes), a suitable number of boxes (not less than 30 per cent of the total boxes in the lot) shall be first chosen at random. For each of the boxes so chosen, an approximately equal number of pairs shall be picked up from its different parts so as to obtain the required number of pairs. For example, if a lot consists of 1,000 pairs of footwear packed in 50 boxes each containing 20 pairs, choose more than 15 boxes at random. If it is decided to open 20 boxes, then pairs shall be picked up from different parts of each of the 20 boxes to give a total of 80 pairs as specified in Table 1. xx UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

21 TABLE A1.SCALE OF SAMPLING AND PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTS NO. OF FOOTWEAR PAIRS IN A LOT SAMPLES FOR VISUALLY OBSERVED DEFECTS (PAIRS) PERMISSIBLE NO. OF DEFECTIVES (PAIRS) SAMPLE SIZE FOR LABORATORY TESTING (PAIRS) PERMISSIBLE NO. OF DEFECTIVES (PAIRS) (1) (2) (3) () (5) Up to to to to to to and above A. All randomly selected footwear pairs (Table A1, Column 2) shall be inspected for visually observed defects, i.e. i) Difference in shape, design and colour. ii) Odd pairing and incorrect size. iii) Distorted shapes. iv) Faulty jointing and adhesion of sole, heel, toe guard, toe cap and insole. v) Insole cut short. vi) Broken stitches and incorrect stitching. vii) Missing or defective eyelets/speed hooks or eyeleting/hooking. viii) Variations in positioning of eyelets/speed hooks. ix) Stiffener not centrally placed. x) Unfit lace. xi) Finish not even and unpolished. xii) Missing or defective buckles/buckling assembly. A5. The number of defective footwear pairs shall not exceed the permissible number given in Table A1, Column 3. If, however, the number of defective pairs exceeds the permissible number of defectives, the lot shall be rejected. UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xxi

22 A6. In case the lot has been found satisfactory for visually observed defects, sample pairs for laboratory testing (Table A1, Column ) shall be taken from among those drawn (Table 1A, Column 2). The pairs shall be chosen at random and tested for dimensional, physical and chemical characteristics. If the number of defective footwear is less than or equal to the corresponding permissible number of defectives given in Table A1, Column 5, the lot shall be declared to have met the requirements of this standard. Otherwise if the defective footwear pairs are more than the corresponding permissible numbers of defectives the lot shall be rejected. xxii UNBS 2016 All rights reserved

23 Bibliography During the preparation of this standard, reference was made to the following documents: [1] MS 887: 1982 Specification for spike proof combat boots. [2] IS 2060: 198 Specification for gents shoes. [3] SABS 21: 1976 Specification for the production of men s shoes (good year welted with stitched or stuck-on outer soles). [] SABS 1363: 1999 Specification for young people s shoes (stuck-on and stitch-down constructions). [5] KS : 1989 Specification for sole leather. [6] BATA Shoe Company specifications. [7] KS : Part 2: 1993 Specification for upholstery fabrics Part 2. Coated fabrics Acknowledgement is hereby made for the assistance obtained from these sources UNBS 2016 All rights reserved xxiii

DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD

DRAFT UGANDA STANDARD DUS 1656-1 First Edition 2016-mm-dd Footwear Children s shoes Specifications: Part 1: 2 years and below DUS 1656-1:2016 UNBS 2016 DUS 1656-1:2016 Compliance with this standard does