The Nuts & Bolts of Tree Felling
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1 The Nuts & Bolts of Tree Felling { Basic felling, safety, and chainsaw maintenance for woodland owners Joe Herring, Iowa DNR Forestry Bureau
2 For weekend warriors who want to work safely in their woods Firewood Production Forest Stand Improvement & Thinning X Removing Unwanted Trees
3 Quick Program Outline Felling methodology Basic saw maintenance Time permitting: Common pickle situations Safety
4 Just kidding! Safety First. Footnote: Never do a Google image search for Chainsaw injuries
5 Minimum gear needed Helmet Ear & eye protection Chaps Boots Gloves
6 Basic safety stuff Keep your thumbs wrapped around top handle Use your chain break: Whenever pull-starting Whenever walking Stand with feet firmly planted when throttling Bend at the knees, not back Work with saw close to your body (not outreached)
7 Part II. Tree Felling Every Tree Deserves a Plan
8 Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? Factors to consider: Lean Weight Wind
9
10 Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? 2. Where do you want the tree to go?
11 Wherever there s space Avoid damaging other trees
12 Develop a Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to fall? Check. 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Check. Can it be done??? If no, STOP!!
13 A tree MUST have a place where it can go down.
14 The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards
15 3. Identify hazards Hangers Dead limbs that are still attached Intertwined branches from neighboring trees Vines Cracks Rot & decay
16 3. Identify hazards Hangers Dead limbs that are still attached Intertwined branches from neighboring trees Vines Cracks Rot & decay
17 Big Butts are for good for Sir Mix-a-Lot, but not for logging
18 The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Identify escape route
19 4. Identify escape route NOT aside the tree NOT directly behind Retreat at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of fall, on either side Clear away any obstacles before hand
20 Felling Direction
21 The Plan: 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? Can it be done? Yes. 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Identify escape route 5. Identify good side and bad side of tree
22 5. Identify good side vs. bad side Side lean Imbalanced weight to one side Wind Final cuts and retreat will be made from the good side of the tree Good Side Leaning away; Direction of Fall Bad Side
23 Review: Every Tree Deserves a Plan 1. Which way does the tree want to go? 2. Where do you want the tree to go? 3. Identify potential hazards 4. Clear escape route 5. Identify good side and bad side of tree
24 Principles of the felling cuts timbergreenforestry.com
25 Cut out a wedge and the tree falls that way, right?
26 Open-face notch/ Hinge method Taught by FISTA and Game of Logging programs Maintains total control of tree when used properly Some loss in butt log volume Increased safety, production output, and wood recovery
27 Why it works Wood has high longitudinal strength (tension) The hinge controls tree s direction of fall timbergreenforestry.com
28 Not to be confused with Hinge cutting for deer habitat improvement
29 Three cuts: 3. Final Backcut 1. Open-face notch 2. Bore cut 3. Final backcut 1. Notch Hinge 2. Bore cut
30 It s all about the hinge
31 It s all about the hinge
32 It s all about the hinge
33
34
35
36
37
38
39 Notch Direction of Fall
40 Notch Direction of Fall
41 Notch Direction of Fall
42 Notch Direction of Fall
43 Notch Direction of Fall
44 Notch Direction of Fall
45 Notch Direction of Fall
46 Notch Direction of Fall
47 Notch Direction of Fall
48 Notch Direction of Fall
49 Notch Direction of Fall
50 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
51 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
52 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
53 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
54 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
55 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
56 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
57 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
58 Notch Direction of Fall Holding Wood Hinge
59 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
60 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
61 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
62 TIM-BER!!!!! Retreat at 45-degree angle on tree s good side Try to get behind other large trees Watch for falling limbs
63 Cut specifications How deep should my notch be? 80% of D.B.H.
64 Cut specifications Open face notch angle o
65 Match your cuts; No bypasses allowed
66 Helpful tips for cutting the notch 1. Carefully aim the direction 2. Make first cut from top, downward at ~60 o angle
67 First cut timbergreenforestry.com
68 More specifications Dimensions of the HINGE Thickness: 10% of D.B.H. Length: 80% of D.B.H.
69 Helpful tips for bore cutting Position yourself on the good side Don t accidentally cut off your hinge! Initiate cut with attack corner Hinge; don t cut!
70 Chainsaw reactive forces Kickback Corner Push Attack Corner Pull
71 Notch Direction of Fall
72 Notch Direction of Fall
73 Notch Direction of Fall
74 Notch Direction of Fall
75 Notch Direction of Fall
76 Notch Direction of Fall
77 Notch Direction of Fall
78 Notch Direction of Fall
79 Notch Direction of Fall
80 Notch Direction of Fall Hinge
81 Must perform bore cut at full RPMs
82 Make all cuts on level plane
83 Remember, practice makes perfect
84 Why bother with the bore cut? Eliminates risk of barber chairs on large trees or leaning trees Safety issue Wood recovery issue Uniform hinge thickness ensures directional accuracy Faster production; less collateral damage to residual stand What about wedging?
85 Part III. Routine saw maintenance Let the saw do the work!
86 The Chain s the Thing 1 1. Always sharpen your own chain, with a handheld file 2. Do frequently in small doses Prevents overheating Saves money & time Keeps your chain tip-top and you happy 1 Please see article by Dave Johnson in June 2009 Nebraska Timber Talk newsletter
87 Understanding the chain Depth gauge aka raker Cutter
88
89
90 Sharpening is a simple task of filing the cutters
91 Keep it simple
92 Note alternating teeth on your chain
93 Locate starting link Begin with back half
94 1. Align guide with bar s axis 2. Push file forward, keeping flat with slight upward pressure, 1-2 strokes 3. Advance chain forward and repeat for next cutter 4. Flip file and repeat for opposite-facing cutters
95 You should have nice, big shavings not sawdust
96 Note markings on cutters
97
98 Filing gradually reduces depth gauge setting as top plate gets shorter
99
100 Filing the rakers down
101
102
103 Basic chain types Standard chisel chain (yellow label) Low kickback (green or blue label) Makes bore cutting more difficult Filing rakers more difficult
104 Other routine stuff to pay attention to Clutch Bar Oiler Air cleaner
105 Keep area around the clutch clean Bar oiler
106 Monitor condition of the bar
107 Clean out rails/oil port
108 Rotate bar every other use and check oiling action often
109 Lastly: Keep the air cleaner CLEAN!
110 Which saw is best?
111 You are hereby deemed Dangerously Knowledgeable Beavers: Thousands of years of evolutional Training You: One hour
112 Recommended Training Programs Forest Industry Safety & Training Alliance (FISTA) Game of Logging
113 Thanks for listening Extra slides
114 Common pickles encountered in the woods Hard leaners Hung trees Springpoles Wedging
115 Dealing with hard leaners High risk for barber chairs Very fast release Trunk can swing unpredictably when it lands
116 Dealing with hard leaners Leave more holding wood than usual Make the release cut below the plane of the bore cut (4-8 inches lower, depending on mass & lean of the tree) Get away from the stump Back
117 Felling against their natural lean
118 Laws of physics still apply Depends on amt. of lean & other variables Tall & skinny trees = Easier Fat, short trees = More difficult Mathematical formulas are available, but somewhat involved
119
120 How it s done 1. Set up notch, hinge, & holding wood as normal 2. Insert wedges into both sides of bore cut & pound tight 3. Cut holding wood 4. Pound wedges in until tree falls
121 Back to program Back to pickles
122 Hang-ups
123 Hang-ups 1. Identify the fulcrums/tension vs. compression sides 2. Cut about 1/3 of way through on compression side, then finish on opposite 3. Helps to cut at an angle (not perpendicular to the trunk) to avoid pinching Back
124 Springpoles Very dangerous Catch-22: cut the backside, and the tree springs violently Cut the inside, and your saw gets pinched
125 Springpoles 1. Identify the sweet spot
126 Springpoles 2. Slowly shave off thin layers of wood from under the tree at this spot, moving the saw back and forth
127
128 Tree will gently release tension, and you get to keep your nose intact Back
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