Polyamide in which at least 85% of the amide linkages are directly attached to two aromatic rings

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3 Generic Name Acetate Cellulose Acetate; Triacetate where not less than 92% of the cellulose is acetylated Acrylic Aramid Glass At least 85% Acrylonitrile unite Polyamide in which at least 85% of the amide linkages are directly attached to two aromatic rings Glass Modacrylic Less than 85% but at least 35% acrylonitrile units Nylon Olefin Polyester Rayon Saran Spandex Vinal _- Polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkages are directly attached to two aromatic rings At least 85% ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units At least 85% ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid including but not restricted to substituted terephthalate units and parasubstituted hydroxybenzoate units Regenerated cellulose with less than 15% chemically combined substituents At least 8% vinylidene chloride Elastomer of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane At least 5% vinyl alcohol units and at least 85% total vinyl alcohol and acetal units 3-2 Man Made Fibers And Their Proprtles

4 Wet Spinning TvDical Wet SDun Fibers Viscose Acrilan Creslan Disadvantages Slow (7-15 yddmin) ' Washing to remove impurities Solvent and chemical recovery Advantages Large tows can be handled Man Made Fibers And Thek Propertla 3-3

5 Dry Spinning TvDical Dry SRun Fibers Acetate (acetone solvent) Triacetate (methylene chloride) Spandex (some) (dimethyl formamide) Disadvantages Flammable solvent hazards ' Solvent recovery Slow (?) (2-4 yddmin) Advantages Yarn does not require purification _- 3-4 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

6 I Melt Spinning TvDical Melt Spun Fibers Nylons Polyester Polypropylene Disadvantages Separate drawing step (unless spin draw) Advantages High speed (275 to 15 yddmin); (4 yddmin spin draw) Nosolvents No purification problems

7 A. Wet Spinning (Ravon) Extrusion Of Man Made Fibers (Spinning Methods) c B. Dry Spinning Polymer Solution Air Outlet Heating Jacket -- Filament Winding Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

8 C. Melt SRinning Storage - 6,- J %jp Hopper i = Roll Finish -.I dfi- Filament Winding Man Made Flbers And Their Properties 3-7

9 Textile Fiber Parameters Fibrous materials should possess certain properties for them to be usekl as textile raw materials. Those properties which are essential for acceptance as a suitable raw material may be classified as "primary properties", while those which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its use may be classified as "secondary properties". Prima- ProDerties Length; length-width ratio Tenacity (strength) Flexibility (pliability) Acceptable extensibility for processing Cohesion Uniformity of properties Secondary ProDerties Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover, etc.) -- Moisture regain and moisture absorption (comfort, static electricity, etc.) Elastic character - tensile and compression Thermoplasticity (softening point and heat-set character) 3-6 Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

10 Dyeability Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-organisms, and environmental conditions Flammability Luster Note: Cost is always a factor to consider Man Made Aben And Their Properties 3-9

11 Figure 3-1 Typical Stress-Strain Curves Of Various Fibers SMnPercent 3-1 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

12 Key Fiber Properties Determined by Polymer Composition And Structure Melting Point Modulus Elasticity and recovery from strain Tensile strength Density Moisture absorption Dyeability comfort _- Man Made flben And Thelr Propertles 3-1 1

13 & 1,>?$...,,.+ I.'#=.:.:.....:.:.:.,.... :::' -*- Examples of Fiber Shapes Flat Oval, Lumen Convolutions Cotton Oval to round, Overlapping scales Medulla Wool Triangular, Round edges, Uniform in man-mades Silk, Nylon Type 9 Dacron Type 62 Cicular, Uniform in diameter Nylon, Dacron Cuprammonium Rayon Dog-Bone Orlon, Verel, Lycra Lobular Lengthwise Striations Acetate Y-Shaped Celacbud Type 2 Acetate Cumulofi Nylon,y'... Ribbon-S haped Dyne1 $&&. 2'2EE=. Trilobal Antron Nylon Circular, Serrated, Lengthwise Striations Viscose Rayon 3-12 Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

14 Density and Specific Gravity' Fiber Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool Man-made Fibers Acetate Acrylic Aramid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon Spandex Densits (dcc) or *Ratio of weight of a given volume of fiber to an equal volume of water _- Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-13

15 I I Absorbency Fiber Moisture Regain* Natural Fibers Cotton 7-11 Flax 12 Silk 11 Wool Man-made Fibers Acetate Arne1 triacetate Acrylic &amid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon Rayon HWM Spandex *Moisture re ain is expressed as a percentage of the moisture-free weight at 7 f Farenheit and 65% relative humidity Man Made Rbers And Their Propertla

16 Important Criteria to Consider Heat And Textile Materials Softening, melting, or decomposition temperatures Tendency of the fiber and fabric to shrink when heat-relaxed, or stretch when heated and under tension Ability of the fabric to heat set Ability of the fabric to hction properly at elevated temperatures in one time or repeated use Ability of the fabric to ftnction properly at room temperature (or some other lower temperature) after exposure at high temperature for a given period of time _- Man Mode Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-15

~ -saran Table 3-1 Thermal Properties k Fiber Melting Point

OF OC Natural Fben I Cotton Nonmelting 425 2 18 Nonmelting 45

Aramid I Glass I Modacrylic I Novoloid I Nylon6 Nylon66 I Olefin

184 35 177 575 32 482 25 464 24 I 4-49 24-254 I 3-35 149-176 1

93-12 1 414 2 12 34 171 3 149 482 25 445 229 35 177 275 135 1 26

35 177 Nonmelting 375 19 1 35 177 3 149 Do not iron 446 23 347

17 ~ -saran Table 3-1 Thermal Properties k Fiber Melting Point Softening Safe Ironing Sticking Point Temperature* OF OC OF OC OF OC Natural Fben I Cotton Nonmelting Nonmelting I Wool Nonmelting Nonmelting Acetate I Acrylic I Aramid I Glass I Modacrylic I Novoloid I Nylon6 Nylon66 I Olefin I Polyester PET I Polyester PCDT ;--- Vinyon Spandex I I Does not melt, carbonizes above 8' F I Nonmelting I (lowest possible) Nonmelting Do not iron Do not iron Man Made Fibers And Their PropeC.nes

18 Comparative Fiber Properties - Effect Of Acids Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Resistant to most acids Resistant to most acids Resistant to most mineral ac 96% sulhric is; disintegrated by Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool Disintegrates in hot dilute and cold concentrated acids Soluble in acetic acid, decomposed by strong acids Similar to acetate Decomposed by strong mineral acids, resistant to weak acids Very resistant Resists most acids. Etched by hydrofluoric acid and hot phosphoric acid Similar to rayon Destroyed by hot sulfuric, otherwise unaffected by acids -- Man Made Rbers And Their Properties 3-1 7

19 Comparative Fiber Properties - Effects Of Alkalies Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool Destroyed by strong alkalies at a boil, resists weak alkalies Resistant to alkalies Resistant to cold alkalies, slowly decomposed at a boil by strong alkalies No effect by cold, weak alkalies, swells and loses strength in concentrated alkalies Saponified, little effect from cold weak alkalies Not effected up to ph 9.8,25' F; better than acetate Little or no effect Very resistant Attacked by hot weak alkalies and concentrated alkalies Swells when treated with caustic soda but is not damaged Attacked by weak alkalies, destroyed by strong alkalies 3-18 Man Made Fibers And Their Propetties

20 Comparative Fiber Properties - Effect Of Organic Solvents Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool Unaffected Soluble in warm acetone, otherwise unaffected Soluble in some phenolic compounds, otherwise unaffected Unaffected Soluble in acetone, dissolved or swollen by many others Soluble in acetone, chloroform and swollen by others Generally unaffected, soluble in some phenolic compounds Soluble in chlorinated hydrocarbons above 16' Unaffected Resistant Generally resistant Man Made Fibers And Their Properh 3-19

21 Comparative Fiber Properties - Effect Of Sunlight Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Rayon Acetate Triacetate Nylon 66 Olefin Glass Cotton Wool Little or no effect Highly resistant, some loss of strength and discoloration after constant exposure Some loss of strength, no discoloration, very resistant behind glass Generally resistant, loses strength after long exposure Approximately same as rayon Resistant, loses strength after long exposure No discoloration, strength loss after long exposure Very resistant, retains 95% strength after 6 months exposure None Strength loss on long exposure Strength loss, dyeing is affected 3-2 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

22 ComDosition Regenerated cellulose Physical ProDerties Rayon (A Cellulosic Man-Made Fiber) Microscopic Appearance - Striations seen in viscose and high-strength rayon - If delustered, scattered specks of pigment can be seen. Length - Filament and staple Color - Transparent unless dulled by pigments Luster - High unless delustering pigment added Strength - Fair to excellent - Regular rayon has fair strength - High tenacity types have good to excellent strength -- Elasticity - Regular rayon is low - High strength rayon is good Resiliency - High wet-strength rayon is better Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-21

23 Moisture Absorption - Higher than natural cellulose - Fibers swell in water - Weaker when wet Heat - Loses strength above 3' F - Decomposes between 35 and 4' F Flammability - Burns rapidly unless treated Electrical Conductivity - Fair - static charge can be reduced with special finishes Specific Gravity (similar to cotton) Chemical ProDerties (similar to cotton) Easily damaged by strong acids Resistant to alkalies, reduction in strength if concentrated Lengthy exposure to sunlight weakens the fabric Greater finity for dyes than cotton 3-22 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

24 Acrylic (A Wool-Like Fiber) ComD osi t ion Acrylonitrile and small amounts of other monomers Physical Properties Microscopic appearance - Uniform and smooth surface - Irregular spaced striations Length * - Mainly a staple fiber Color - White to off-white Luster - Bright, semidull, or dull Strength - Fair to good strength Elasticity - Good -- Resilience - Good Water Absorption -1-3% Man Made flbers And Their Properties 3-23

25 Heat - Yellowing may occur above 3' F - Softening or sticking about 45' F Flammability - Burns with yellow flame Electrical Conductivity - Fair to good Specific Gravity to Good bulk and covering power Chemical ProDerties Damaged only by strong concentrated acids Not normally affected by alkalies Very resistant to ultraviolet light 3-24 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

26 Nylon (A Polyamide Fiber) Co md osit ion Nylon 66 - Polyhexamethylene Adipamide Nylon 6 - Caprolactam Phvsical Proverties Microscopic Appearance - Very smooth and even Length, - Filament and staple Color - Off-white Luster - High natural luster can be controlled Strength - Exceptionally high (6, - 18,) pounds per square inch Elasticity - Exceptionally high -- Resiliency - Very good Moisture Absorption - 3.8% Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-25

27 ~ Heat - High resistance, melts at 482' F Flammability - Melts slowly - Does not support combustion Electrical Conductivity - Low, generates static '- Specific Gravity 1.14 (low density) Chemical ProDerties Weakened by concentrated strong acids High resistance to alkalies Loses strength in prolonged exposure to sunlight - bright yam more resistant than dull yam 3-26 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

28 Polyester (Most Versatile Fiber) ComDosition Combination of Terephthalic Acid or Dimethylterephthalate and Ethylene Glycol Phvsical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth, even, rodlike, different cross-sectional shapes Length. - Filament and staple Color - White Luster - Bright or dull Strength - Good to excellent Elasticity - Fair to good - Greater than cotton or rayon _- Resilience -Excellent Moisture Absorption - Less than 1% Man Mode Fibers And Thelr Properties 3-27

29 Heat - Softening or sticking temperature is above 4' F (thermoplastic) Flammability - Bum slowly Electrical Conductivity - Accumulates static changes Specific Gravity - Typically 1.38 Chemical Pronerties Good resistance to most acids Good resistance to most alkalies Good sunlight resistance Man Made Fibers And Thelr Properties

30 Figure 3-2 Production of Polyester r-l Drying 1 Drawing Tow Drawing 2 Crimping 3 3 Drying/Heat Setting 4 Cutting Filament Yam Staple Fiber -- Man Made Fiben And Thelr Propertles 3-29

31 ComDosition Acetate Ester of Cellulose Phvsical ProDerties Acetate (A Cellulosic Man-Made Fiber) Microscopic Appearance - Striations farther apart than viscose rayon - Lobed cross-section Length - Filament and staple Color - Transparent unless dulled by pigments Luster - Bright, semibright, or dull Strength - Moderate - Less than rayon when wet Elasticity - Not very high - Similar to rayon -- Resilience - Poor 3-3 Man Made Flbers And Their Properties

32 Moisture Absorption - 6%, little strength loss when wet Heat - Ironing temperatures of 275' F are satisfactory Flammability - Slowly combustible Electrical Conductivity - Good Specific Gravity Chemical ProDerties Concentrated strong acids will decompose it Strong alkalies will damage it Long exposures to sunlight produce a weakening effect -- Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-31

33 1 Polypropylene (An Olefin Fiber) ComDosition Propylene Physical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth and rodlike Length - Filament and staple Color - Translucent Luster - Dull, semidull, bright Strength - Excellent strength (depends on degree of polymerization) Elasticity - Good Resilience - Good resistance to crushing Moisture Absorption - None 3-32 Man Made Abets And Thek Properties

34 Heat - Melts at about 33' F - Progressive shrinkage can occur at 14' F to 212' F Flammability - Slow burning Electrical Conductivity - Excellent Specific Gravity * -.9 to.91 Chemical ProDerties Very resistant to most acids Very resistant to alkalies Dye pigments usually added to the liquid before fibers are extruded Loses strength in sunlight, degrades upon long exposure -- Man Made Rben And Thelr Properties 3-33

35 Polyethylene (An Olefin Fiber) Compos it ion Ethylene Phvsical ProDerties Microscopic Appearance - Smooth and rodlike Length - Filament and staple Color - Translucent Luster - Dull, semidull, bright Strength - Fair to good (depends on degree of polymerization) Elasticity - Good Resilience - Good resistance to crushing 6 - Moisture Absorption - None 3-34 Man Made Fibers And Their Propertles

36 Heat - Very heat-sensitive - Melts at about 26' F Flammability - Slow burning Electrical Conductivity - Excellent Specific Gravity -.9 to.91 Chemical ProDerties Very resistant to most acids Very resistafit to alkalies Dye pigments usually added to the liquid before fibers are extruded Loses strength in sunlight, degrades upon long exposure _- Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-35

37 ~ ~~ ~~ Table 3-2 Textile Fiber Properties specific Gravity Tenacity (gpd) Tenacity (wet) (gpd) Moisture Regain (96) Elongation Softening (%I Melting Point ("F) Cotton NONE Acetate I I I (sm-445'f (m)5 F Acrylic (sm2'f Glass NONE I (s)135o-156o F Nylon I 1 (sm5of l6 - (mm8-5'f Polyester R.LIYOI1, HT I Wool (sm5'f (mm82'f DNM 9-26 Decomposes 354 F DNM 3-4 Decomposes 31-35'F I 25 DNM Man Made Rbers And Thelr PrOpertres

38 Summary Of Properties Desired For Textile Fibers Azmarel and Domestic Reauirements Tenacity: 3-5 gramddenier Elongation at break: 1-35% Recovery from elongation: 1% at strains up to 5% Modulus of elasticity: 3-6 gramddenier Moisture absorbency: 2-5% Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point): above 215' C High abrasion resistance (varies with type fabric structure) Dyeable Low flammability Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 1' c Ease of care Industrial Reauirements Tenacity: 7-8 graddenier Elongation at break: 8-15% -- Modulus of elasticity: 8 graddenier or more conditioned, 5 graddenier wet Zero strength temperature: 25' C or above Man Made Fibers And Their Properties 3-37

39 Fiber Property Chart Fiber Prover& Is Due To Contn'buter To Fabric ProDertv Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fiber to withstand the rubbing or abrasion it gets in everyday use Tough outer layer, scales, or skin Fiber toughness Flexible molecular chains Durability Abrasion resistance Resistance to splitting Absorbency or Moisture Regain The percentage of moisture a bone-dry fiber Will absorb from the air under standard conditions of.temperature and moisture Hydroxyl groups Amorphous areas Comfort, warmth, water repellency, absorbency, static build-up Dyeability, spotting Shrinkage Wrinkle resistance Aging Resistance Chemical structure Storing of fabrics Chemical Reactivity The effect of acids, alkali, oxidizing agents, solvents Cohesiveness The ability of fibers to cling together during spinning, not important in continuous filament Polar groups of molecules Crimp or twists Care required in cleaning/bleaching, ability to take acid or alkali finishes Resistance to ravel Cover The ability to occupy space for concealment or protection Crimp, curl, or twist Cross-sectional shape Warmth in fabric Cost - less fiber needed Creep Delayed elasticity; Recovers gradually -- &om strain Lack of side chains, cross links, strong bonds; poor orientation Streak dyeing and shiners in fabric

40 Density see Specific Gravity Dyeability The fibers receptivity to coloration by dyes Amorphous areas and dye sites Aesthetics and colorfastness Elastic Recovery The ability of fibers to recover from strain Elasticity The ability of a stretched material to retum immediately to its original size Molecular structure: side chains, cross linkages, strong bonds Processability of fabrics Resiliency Delayed elasticity or creep Electric Conductivity The ability to transfer electrical charges Elongation The ability to be strztched, extended, or lengthened; varies at different temperatures and when wet or dry Feltability The ability of fibers to mat together Flammability The ability to ignite and burn Chemical structure: polar groups Fiber crimp Molecular structure: molecular crimp orientation Scale structure of wool Chemical composition Poor conductivity causes fabric to cling to the body, electric shocks Increases tear strength Reduces brittleness Provides give and stretchiness Fabrics can be made directly?om fibers Special care required during washing Fabrics bum Hand The way a fiber feels: silky, harsh, soft, crisp, dry Cross-sectional shape, crimp, diameter, length Hand of fabric Heat Conductivity -- - The ability to conduct heat Crimp away fiom the body Cross-sectional shape Warmth Man Mode Fibers And Their Properties 3-39

41 Heat Sensitivity The ability to soften, melt, Heat vibrates molecules Determine safe washing and or shrink when subjected Fewer intermolecular ironing temperatures to heat forces and cross links Hydrophilic or Hygroscopic Bee Absorbency Luster The light reflected from a surface; more subdued than shine; light rays are broken up Smoothness Fiber length Flat or lobal shape Luster Luster Shine Loft or Compressional Resiliency The ability to spring back to original thickness after being compressed Fiber crimp Stiffness Springiness, good cover Resistance to flattening Mildew Resistance Low absorption Care during storage Moth Resistance Molecule has no sulfur Care during storage Pilling The bailing up of fiber Fiber strength Pilling ends on the surface of fabrics High molecular weight Unsightly appearance Specific Gravity and Density The measures of the weight of a fiber; Density is the weight in grams per cubic centimeter and specific gravity is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at doc. -- Molecular weight Warmth without weight Loftiness - full and light Buoyancy to fabric 3-4 Man Made Fibers And Their Properties

42 Stiffness or Rigidity The opposite of flexibility; the resistance to bending or creasing Ratio of breaking stress to breaking strain Body of fabric Resistance to insertion of yam twist Strength The ability to resist stress; expressed as tensile strength (pounds per square inch) or as tenacity (grams per denier) Molecular structure: orientation, crystallinity, degree of polymerization Durability, tear strength, sagging, pilling Sheerer fabrics possible with stronger fine fibers Sunlight Resistance The ability to withstand degradation from direct sunlight Chemical composition Durability of curtains and draperies, outdoor furniture, outdoor carpeting Toughness Wicking The ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface Outer surface of "skin" of fiber Chemical and physical composition of outer surfaces Resists rupture from deformation, gives frictional resistance Makes fabrics comfortable 3-41

43 Fiber Blends - Some Reasons For Blending To facilitate processing To improve properties - Abrasion resistance - Strength - Absorbency - Add bulk and warmth - Hand - Dimensional stability - Resistance to wrinkling To produce multi-color fabrics To reduce cost 3-42

Chapter 5 MANUFACTURED CELLULOSIC FIBERS/ PROTEIN FIBERS

Chapter 5 MANUFACTURED CELLULOSIC FIBERS/ PROTEIN FIBERS Identification of Regenerated Fibers Manufactured regenerated fibers: From naturally occurring polymers; regenerated fibers cannot be used in their