Mineral ingredients. A better structural control for sustainable cosmetics formulation
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1 Mineral ingredients. A better structural control for sustainable cosmetics formulation Xavier Bourrat, Guillaume Wille and Mohamed Bizi BRGM, 3 avenue Claude Guillemin BP30009 Orleans cedex2 X.Bourrat@brgm.fr Mineral ingredients Xavier Bourrat et al.
2 What is the first advertising of cosmetic products of all time? red ocher to hold male away *Camilla Power et al., Cosmetics, identity and consciousness, ** Photo E. Daynès/Reconstruction Atelier Daynès, Paris. Neanderthal Chapelle-aux-Saints. 50,000 years B.P. Made on the basis of a cast of a skull discovered in La Chapelle-aux-Saints, France, from a postcranium reconstructed by Gary Sawyer, an anthropologist at AMNH. DSEP/DR/CK RAP XI > 2
3 Minerals for cosmetics, eternal value: 3 reasons for controlling structure 1. More and more minerals 1. Mineral is trendy, clean, sustainable 2. Mineral has found a new frontier 1. Nano-size means new properties 2. controlling optical, magnetic, surface, etc nm 3. Customize multiscale textures with mineral ingredients 1. Hybrides : organo-mineral compounds 2. Emergence of smart fillers Nom du service émetteur Margarita del Arco et al., 2004 > 3
4 BRGM, advance in mineral science agenda 1. Physical properties of nanoparticles 2. New analytical electron microscopes : MEB-RAMAN 1. Example 1: assessment of the composition of an eyeshadow 2. Example 2: acetylene black, Raman characterization 3. Conclusions Nom du service émetteur > 4
5 1. Physical properties of nanoparticles > Aggregation, floculation control: diffusion > Particles size: Diffraction/scatering, UV- visible DLS: dynamic light scattering Nom du service émetteur > 5
6 Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) vs TEM > CeO 2 : ellipsoidal shape between 2 and 4nm > SiO 2 : spherical particles 50 to 86 nm > TiO 2 : nanorods 18 x 24 x 168nm CeO 2 ph =2.4 SiO 2 ph = 6 TiO 2 ph = 6.4 CeO 2 SiO 2 TiO 2 Nom du service émetteur > 6
7 2. New analytical electron microscopes : MEB-RAMAN EBSD Platine Peltier BSE (YAG) / CL TESCAN MIRA III XMU TESCAN s.r.o. (Brno, Rep. Tchèque) Resolution: 1.0 nm à 30 kv / 2.0 nm à 3 kv Stage: 130x130x100 mm, hmax 143 mm RAMAN 6000 Cold sample: -40/-50 C Wet sample without drying cm -1
8 2.1 Example of the formulation of an eyeshadow > Sample : the popular Agnes B Monobulle eyeshadow Here : metallic purple grade > MEB-RAMAN: in low vacuum mode: sample deposited on carbon tape, as-it, no coating. Nom du service émetteur > 8
9 Monobulle eyeshadow, metallic purple Silica bead Al lamellar particles Bi nanoparticle Talc
10 Monobulle eyeshadow, metallic purple Bi particles Na K Borosilicate particle
11 Monobulle, metallic purple : formulation > Filler Ca Na K borosilicate Talc Mica Alumina > Nano spheres: Silica Aluminum Titanum dioxyde > Pigments Alumine or Al hydroxide, in form of thin lamellar plates (Bronze and Copper powder) Mica coated with Bismuth oxychloride, Tin, Titanum, Iron, Chromium oxydes
12 Example 2: Acetylene Black, how controlling a deep black color? Application: mascaras, eyeliners, brush-on-brow, eye shadows, lipsticks, blushers & foundations. > Comparaison of acetylene blacks TEM structure vs fractal geometry and Raman spectroscopy Nom du service émetteur > 12
13 Thèse d Etat Université de Pau Organic pigment: acetylene black 1. Microscope électronique en transmission Mass Fractal dimension Electron microscope D M =1.80 Super S Raman D1 D M =1.70 Raman Intensity (a.u.) D3 G D2 D (cm -1 ) D M =1.46 S70 D1 G D M =1.22 Raman Intensity (a.u.) D2 D4 D Xavier Bourrat et al., ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE GRADES OF CARBON-BLACK - STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES, Carbon 1993 (cm -1 ) 13
14 Mineral ingredients. A better structural control for sustainable cosmetics formulation Xavier Bourrat, Guillaume Wille and Mohamed Bizi BRGM, 3 avenue Claude Guillemin BP30009 Orleans cedex2 CONCLUSIONS BRGM French Geological Survey : a long expertise in physics, structure and texture of minerals Nanometrology MEB-RAMAN Physics of nanoparticles Processing of nano-structured materials LDH or clays for micro-patch Mineral ingredients Xavier Bourrat et al.
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