1. Kauf and s DETOX commitment. 2. Progress and schedule. Communication. Designing sustainable product ranges. 3. Eliminating critical chemicals

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2 Conte nts 1. Kauf and s DETOX commitment 1.1 Aims and details of our DETOX commitment 2. Progress and schedule 2.1 Achievements to date and next steps 2.2 Wet processes at the heart of the chemical 3.5 Eliminating chemicals such as PFC and AP/APEO 3.6 DETOX audits in wet process facilities 3.7 Further development of the chemical management 4. Communication 4.1 Information and awareness campaigns 5. Designing sustainable product ranges 5.1 Current situation and outlook 6. Textile take-back scheme and management system 2.3 Relevant suppliers and wet process facilities 3. Eliminating critical chemicals 3.1 Procedure 3.2 Supplier information and commitment 3.3 Training in the supply chain 3.4 Water tests in wet process facilities circular economy 6.1 Textile take-back scheme

3 1. Kaufla d s DETOX commitment 3

4 1.1 Aims and details of our DETOX commitment DETOX is a worldwide Greenpeace campaign seeking to eliminate hazardous chemicals from the manufacturing processes for textiles and footwear for the benefit f mankind and the environment. In December 2015, Kaufla d joined the DETOX campaign with a pledge to eliminate environmentally hazardous chemicals from the manufacturing processes for own brands/imports in our apparel, footwear and home textile ranges by We are therefore demonstrating our commitment to using and producing textiles in an environmentally sound manner, with the emphasis on conserving resources. Kaufla d s key DETOX aims: 1. To gradually substitute hazardous chemicals used in apparel, footwear and home textiles in own brands/imports by This policy is based on the Kaufla d Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (Kaufla d MRSL), which applies to Kaufla d and its suppliers. The Kaufla d MRSL includes the 11 chemical groups to be eliminated from products and production processes and specifies the timescales by which definiti e usage bans will come into force. 2. To design sustainable product ranges for our own brand textiles by constantly increasing the proportion of environmentally friendly and resource-efficie t products (e.g. GOTS certifi ation, recyclable or recycled products). Our target is to increase the proportion of environmentally friendly textile items across our entire textile range (own brands/imports) to at least 25% by the end of To introduce a textile take-back scheme and promote a recycling mentality (circular economy) in the world of textiles to ensure that more and more textiles are reused or, at the very least, recycled efficie tly. Our target is to reach 80% of our customers by the end of To achieve transparency in the supply chain and in the use of chemicals, as well as promoting continued consumer awareness and encouraging sustainable use of textiles and footwear. 4

5 2. Progress and schedule 5

6 2.1 Achievements to date and next steps Dec and beyond DETOX commitment signed Project planning and organisation Creation and publication of the Kaufla d MRSL (elimination plan) Supply chain involvement, transparency and commitment Information events in manufacturing countries covering all affected suppliers All suppliers committed to fulfill t e DETOX requirements (incl. Kaufla d MRSL); supplier contracts extended accordingly Identifi ation of wet process facilities (processes such as washing, dyeing, printing) Training and chemical management training for suppliers, production and wet process facilities DETOX water tests Water tests performed by accredited test institutes in over 80% of wet process facilities in China and results published on the IPE database* DETOX product tests 850 product tests carried out as part of quality checks to establish the current situation DETOX audits and consulting Initial DETOX audits undertaken in wet process facilities including consulting sessions with external experts Current situation in wet process facilities established and assessed (including chemical inventory); initial improvements introduced/chemicals substituted Case studies and chemical bans PFC banned in wet process facilities and products with effect from Case studies published on substituting AP/APEO** and PFC*** Information exchange and communication Knowledge sharing with scientists, service providers, suppliers and DETOX stakeholders Notifi ation of consumers and employees, including raising awareness by providing information in our customer brochure, on the internet, in newsletters and via the intranet Textile take-back A textile take-back (or recycling) scheme has been introduced in German Kaufla d stores; this initiative should reach around 55% of all Kaufla d customers, although this has recently been stopped in the short term due to regulatory reasons Further developments Kaufla d MRSL updated Water tests extended to other manufacturing countries incl. publication Audits, assessment and advice offered to all wet process facilities including introducing a chemical management system Fine-tuning of a substitution plan with the assistance of external consultants Creation of a DETOX team and organisation of external expertise Involvement of relevant specialist departments Action planning and timescales Development of DETOX processes Informing the general public *IPE: Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs **AP/APEO: alkylphenols and their ethoxylates *** PFC: per- and polyfluori ated chemicals 2020 Product range configu ation Constant increase in the proportion of environmentally friendly and resource-efficie t textile items (with a target of 25% by ) Promotion of a circular economy Assessment of opportunities to (further) develop the concept of a circular economy Transparency and raising awareness Greater transparency/ever-expanding internet presence Ongoing efforts to raise consumer awareness and encourage sustainable consumption 6

7 2.2 Wet processes at the heart of the chemical management system Upstream suppliers/ upstream production Wet process facilities (e.g. dyeing, printing) Final production Kaufland product range 7

8 2.3 Relevant suppliers and wet process facilities Number of suppliers per country TOTAL: 73 Number of wet process facilities per country TOTAL: 89 China RohstoffKomponentenlieferanten India Nassprozessbetriebe Pakistan Turkey China Endproduktion India ProduktPakistan angebot KauflaTurkey d Bangladesh Bangladesh Other Vietnam Other 8

9 3. Eliminating critical chemicals 9

10 3.1 Procedure Further developments Supplier information and commitment 1. Information event involving all suppliers 2. Supplier commitment signed 3. Transparency in the supply chain achieved Training Training and chemical management training for all suppliers, production and wet process facilities Audits and consulting of wet process facilities Water/product tests 1. Water tests carried out in wet process facilities 2. Product tests carried out 3. Test analysis 1. Analysis of the chemical inventory 2. Audits including consulting 3. Introduction of chemical management system and improvements 1. Assistance with implementing improvement plans/ chemical management system 2. Gradual substitution of critical chemicals (in line with Kaufland MRSL) 3. Re-audits performed 4. Annual water tests 5. Regular product tests and analysis 10

11 3.2 Supplier information and commitment Supplier commitment to meet DETOX targets The supplier commitment and necessary documentation is sent out The DETOX commitment is signed: suppliers and their production facilities sign mandatory contractual agreements conf rming that they comply with the limits MRSL: suppliers receive instructions on using the Kauf and MRSL Transparency: plants (f nal production) and wet process facilities must be disclosed to Kauf and ved e i h c 0% a 10 11

12 3.3 Training in the supply chain All suppliers including the relevant plants (f nal production) and wet process facilities are trained to ensure they comply with the requirements of the DETOX commitment. Training priorities Aims and details of the DETOX commitment Chemical management: hazards and risks, procurement/transport/storage/handling of chemicals, explanatory notes on safety data sheets, protective equipment/work clothing, disposal of hazardous chemicals Instructions for maintaining chemical inventory lists (CIL) Use of the Chemical Checking Tool (IT application) to compare existing chemical stocks quickly and easily with the Kauf and MRSL Improvement/substitution options ieved h c a 86% 12

13 3.4 Water tests in wet process facilities Process Accredited test institutes carry out annual checks on wastewater discharges from wet process facilities to verify the limits agreed in the Kauf and MRSL. These test results are uploaded to a public platform (IPE database). The water tests are analysed in preparation for the DETOX audit with a view to introducing targeted the improvement/ substitution procedures. lished b u p s s r test roces p t Wate e w %* of 4 8 r o f China n i s e i facilit Test parameters Wastewater: the water sample is currently tested for the 11 priority chemical groups (see Kauf and MRSL) Incoming water: if the wastewater sample indicates the presence of chemicals, the incoming water is also tested Kauf and notif es suppliers about the Kauf and water test programme Based on: Kauf and MRSL *due date Supplier registers wet process facilities on IPE Registration data sent to the test institute Test institute agrees sampling date with supplier/wet process facility Test institute publishes test results on the IPE and notif es Kauf and and the supplier 13

14 3.4 Water tests in wet process facilities Results of water tests 2016 Since 2016, water tests have been performed in wet process facilities, focusing on China. Data based on: 104 water tests in 54 wet process facilities used by our suppliers. Chemical fi dings Compliance/exceedance of limits stated in Kaufla d MRSL given in % of the performed water testings - In the case of AP/APEO it is quite clear that our MRSL limits were observed in 82% of the test results, or these substances were not detected, whereas the limits were exceeded in 18% of cases. - The substances detected most frequently were heavy metals, chlorobenzenes/chlorinated solvents/chlorophenols/chlorinated paraffins a d phthalates. This was often due to the contamination of incoming water (see next page). APs/APEO PFC heavy metals Limit observed, or not detected phthalates brominated and chlorinated fla e retardants azo dyes organotin compounds chlorobenzenes, chlorinated solvents, chlorophenols and short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) - There were virtually no instances in which limit levels of fla e retardants or organotin compounds were exceeded or even detected in the tests. Limit exceeded 14

15 3.4 Water tests in wet process facilities Results of water tests 2016 Data based on: 104 water tests in 54 wet process facilities used by our suppliers. Chemical fi dings/kaufla d MRSL limits exceeded - Chlorobenzenes/chlorinated solvents/chlorophenols/short chain chlorinated paraffin, phthalates, heavy metals, PFC and AP/APEO were found in both incoming and wastewater, indicating that the water source itself is often contaminated at the outset. Proportion of fi dings in incoming and wastewater as a % of the water tests performed - There was no evidence of organotin compounds, fla e retardants or azo dyes in incoming water. This suggests 100% use in the production process. APs/APEO PFC heavy metals phthalates Waste water brominated and chlorinated fla e retardants Incoming water azo dyes organotin compounds chlorobenzenes, chlorinated solvents, chlorophenols and short chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) 15

16 3.4 Water tests in wet process facilities Results of water tests 2016 Data based on: 104 water tests in 54 wet process facilities used by our suppliers. Chemicals found in incoming water (number of water tests performed in %) Chemicals found in wastewater (number of water tests performed in %) Limit observed, or not detected Limit observed, or not detected Limit exceeded Limit exceeded 16

17 3.5 Eliminating chemicals such as PFC and AP/APEO In the initial stages regarding the elimination of the 11 priority chemical groups, the emphasis is on PFC and AP/APEO. Wet process facilities with signifi ant water test results for PFC and AP/APEO are being investigated and advised with priority. PFC PFC are used to make apparel or footwear water-repellent. Kaufla d already used more environmentally friendly alternatives such as bionic finis es in the past, and is now able to remove all PFC from production processes and end products, in line with the ban due to take effect on Nevertheless, all wet process facilities are still being tested for PFC via the water tests as these facilities often make products for other companies too. Kaufla d ultimately hopes to ensure that PFC are not even used to fulfil p oduction orders for other customers. AP/APEO AP/APEO are often used for washing purposes, but are due to be replaced in the production process by more environmentally friendly alternatives by 2020 at the latest. The limits shown in Kaufla d s MRSL will be subject to ongoing reductions. Wet process facilities showing signifi ant fi dings of AP/APEO will be prioritised in the audit planning process to ensure that rapid progress can be made. Development of case studies on substituting PFC and AP/APEO Case studies on substituting PFC and AP/APEO have been carried out with a view to improving production processes. These are published on 17

18 3.5 Eliminating chemicals such as PFC and AP/APEO Chemical fi dings PFC 2016 Chemical fi dings APs/APEO 2016 Number of wet process facilities in % Number of wet process facilities in % Limit observed, or not detected Limit observed, or not detected Limit exceeded Limit exceeded Target: zero discharges* by *Zero discharges: no hazardous chemicals released into the environment Target: zero discharges by

19 3.6 DETOX audits in wet process facilities Content and schedule Checkpoints Outcome Date re-audit General - operating licence - building safety - management systems - welfare standards Green 1 year later Red depends on the result* DETOX-specif c - environmental assessment/permits - chemical management - water treatment/ wastewater treatment Initial DETOX audit ieved h c a 30% *After successful implementation of the management action plan, but not later than one year 19

20 3.6 DETOX audits in wet process facilities Consulting process as part of the initial and re-audit Initial DETOX audit by Kauf and auditors and external consultants (scheduled) Needed documents: current water test results, chemical inventory list, current product test results for end products Initial meeting Factory tour: revision of all points on the Kauf and DETOX checklist Discussion of any deviation and creation of an individual management action plan External consultants assist with detailed analysis of f ndings and chemical management Management action plan signed by all parties DETOX re-audit (unscheduled) The DETOX re-audit takes place without advance warning. Any irregularities observed in the initial audit are reviewed and further advice given to the facility. 20

21 3.7 Further development of the chemical management Positive list for chemicals We are gradually developing a positive list for substituting hazardous chemicals in the production process with the support of external experts and the chemical industry. Positive list for wet process facilities Carrying out water tests and DETOX audits gives us information about which wet process facilities are able to meet the DETOX requirements, those which still have potential for improvement and to identify the scope for further training and advice. Wet process facilities that produce products in accordance with DETOX standards and successfully meet the requirements are identified as be t practice and are forwarded to our suppliers. Development of a phase out plan to eliminate the 11 hazardous chemical groups Suppliers and their production facilities sign mandatory contractual agreements confirming t at they comply with the limits set in our Kaufla d MRSL. Chemical raw materials, other materials and end products must all comply with the limits. Suppliers and their plants (fi al production) and wet process facilities receive training, advice and audits to ensure that they comply with the limits. The 11 hazardous chemical groups will be eliminated as part of a phase out plan. The new requirements will be introduced gradually to our suppliers so that the production process can be converted gradually and with our support. We will give suppliers enough time to do this, setting mandatory deadlines for the new limits defi ed for all specified c emical groups so that use of these chemicals can be reduced gradually. The aim is to eliminate the 11 hazardous chemical groups completely by

22 4. Communication 22

23 4.1 Information and awareness campaigns Interne Schulungen Interne Schulungen TIP der Woche TIP der Woche Internal and external communication measures Informing employees and getting them involved via in-house training and publishing articles on the intranet Raising consumer awareness by publishing articles in our customer brochure and online media (website and newsletters) In-house training Intranet Intranet Intranet KL Webseite Customer brochure KL Webseite Newsletter Website Newsletter Newsletter 23

24 4.1 Information and awareness campaigns Advertising environmentally friendly textiles/footwear Regular advertising to increase sales and raise awareness 24

25 5. Designing sustainable product ranges 25

26 5.1 Current situation and outlook Creation/specifi ation of CSR product standards on designing environmentally friendly and resource-efficie t textile and footwear ranges Listings/transition to more environmentally friendly textiles Target: 25% environmentally friendly textiles used in own brands/imports (e.g. products with GOTS certifi ation, recycled products, Made in Green products) by Textiles may only display the GOTS label if they can be shown to have been manufactured in line with environmentally friendly and socially responsible requirements. These include extremely stringent regulations regarding the chemicals used. 26

27 6. Textile take-back scheme and the circular economy 27

28 6.1 Textile take-back scheme It is essential that we extend and develop existing textile take-back schemes if we are to have any chance of establishing a circular economy in the textile sector in the long term. Target: Introduction of a textile take-back scheme in Kauf and stores to reach 80% of all Kauf and customers by the end of Current status: General technical and organisational conditions created. The system was initially due to be rolled out in all German Kauf and stores, thus reaching 55% of Kauf and customers worldwide in the f rst instance. Unfortunately, we were unable to meet our target due to requests for clarif cation from the authorities regarding with product responsibility in textile take-back schemes. Rollout has therefore been halted until further notice. e to et du m t o tn Targe urdles h y r o t regula 28

29 Conta ct Kauf and Warenhandel GmbH & Co. KG and.de Website: and.com/detox