WOOL METROLOGY. Research gaps and Innovation

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Maude Casey
6 years ago
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1 WOOL METROLOGY Research gaps and Innovation

2 INTRODUCTION Physical qualities of wool affect its price by influencing: processing path processing efficiency product quality and type Growers who utilise measurements to optimise these properties are more likely to succeed This is a summary of a comprehensive literature review: Wool metrology research and development to date (2015), Textile Progress Journal; Cottle, D.J. & Baxter B.P. Builds on previous wool metrology reviews by Hunter (1980), Hunter and Botha (2010), from South Africa Identifies opportunities in linking measurement to product & process performance 2

3 OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT Ranking current IWTO test methods and merino wool price performance (Stars proportional to premium) Characteristic Worsted Woolen Fibre Diameter ***** ***** Yield ***** ***** Vegetable Matter *** *** Staple Length *** ** Staple Strength *** ** CV Diameter ** * Colour ** ** Dark Fibres ** * Style ** * Resistance to Compression * ** 3

4 OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT Processing equipment is becoming more sophisticated and consumers more discerning. Objective measurement can provide the language for communication between the supplier and consumer. Variable returns to growers can be somewhat mitigated with objective measurement, and breeding to market demands. Wool fibres themselves are naturally very variable and parameters such as along-fibre diameter reflect both environment and nutrition, providing a potential farm management tool. Objective measurements can increase processing efficiency when used for predicting performance. 4

5 OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT Specifying wool by objective measurement is required to: Provide farm management tools Improve sheep breeding programs Describe fibres for international trade Assist or replace subjective assessment Predict processing performance and improve yields Identify potential products Predict product performance Put wool on a comparable footing with competing fibres Assist with QC in marketing and manufacturing Encourage new initiatives in wool production, marketing, processing and end product use 5

6 OBJECTIVE MEASUREMENT Measurement can be direct or indirect; e.g. PM/OFDA/Laserscan vs airflow; NIR vs solvent extraction All require calibration or checking to maintain precision and accuracy Skilled wool appraisers can still sometimes provide better estimates of product performance, by examining all the components of scoured wool consignments. More work is required on the relationships between fibre measurements and product processing and performance now that fabric characteristics can be assessed objectively. Accurate measurement is not useful without accurate sampling for very variable materials. 6

7 RESEARCH GAPS AND INNOVATION Changes in Australian industry since reserve price scheme Size has halved China has become the dominant buyer, taking 70% Local trade has consolidated R&D funding migration to AWI resulted in market-driven contestable funding Reduction in wool volumes has reduced wool testing and number of specialised instrument builders. Current measurements account for at least 80% of auction price variation. 7

8 FILLING RESEARCH GAPS Spectral Based Systems such as NIRS and image analysis for yield estimation. Using a wider range of parameters in predicting processing performance and yarn properties. Using high speed and high resolution Image Analysis to measure contamination in raw wool and tops Include crimp and curvature helps improve understanding of length and diameter Measure soil content in wool Upgrade Pesticide residue test Expand Fabric handle testing 8

9 FILLING RESEARCH GAPS Study relationship between yarn and comfort meter results Improve colour metrology Genetic improvements to prevent yellowing Bleaching systems which don t impact photostability Develop standardised test for photostability 9

10 WOOL METROLOGY DEVELOPMENT 10

11 WOOL METROLOGY INNOVATION Historically 2 distinct development periods for each measurement: Initially government- and industry-funded bodies Then commercial laboratories improving processes Significantly less published activity since 2005 due to: Changing structures and funding Wool metrology R&D community had retrenched Contestable funding and private IP has reduced publishing Wool industry bodies have a greater interest in marketing Possible maturity of technology has limited development Role of competition in innovation 11

12 WOOL METROLOGY INNOVATION Other industries Analogues in Minerals and Agri-products More easily homogenised samples Less restrictive standards and use of method equivalence Hundreds of laboratories sharing development burden Method development is demand-driven and communicated through a short supply chain. Wool trade has been resistant to new measurement technology Recent work of Sneddon & Massey Vested interests & politics can play a part in development Hence faddish and inefficient innovations sometimes have longer lifespan than expected Common issues with other Agricultural products, not just wool 12

13 SUGGESTED FUTURE FOCUS FOR R&D Current focus is on raw materials measurement to satisfy processors requirements. The whole supply chain needs to focus on right product for chosen markets R & D priorities and funding issues need to be discussed across the whole chain Develop or improve tools to: Predict outcomes from various processing routes Optimise lot selection for processing outcomes On farm measurement and communication of objective characteristics of value to growers and users AWI review and Sale by description 13

14 IWTO AND INNOVATION The SH industry good wool metrology community has reduced from to a handful of researchers in the last 20 years. Research funding is largely controlled by commercial organisations focused on product development & Marketing. There is now a vacuum in common good R&D leadership and funding. A leadership entity which has interests in the entire wool pipeline and can connect R&D needs from manufacturers consumers to growers is required. Through its membership and vision for wool, IWTO is ideally suited to fill this most important innovation gap. 14

Demonstrate knowledge of wool and the wool scouring process

Demonstrate knowledge of wool and the wool scouring process 2444 version 6 Page 1 of 5 Level 4 Credits 4 Purpose This unit standard is for people working in scouring or a related industry. People credited