how to easy! TILE A BATHROOM DIY made Scan here to watch the video HOW TO TILE A BATHROOM

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1 how to TILE A BATHROOM DIY Scan here to watch the video HOW TO TILE A BATHROOM

2 TILING A BATHROOM: WHAT YOU LL NEED Adhesive ABA Powerstik Powder 20kg ABA Mixing Bucket FROM YOUR TOOLBOX Electric Drill Grinder Clean Rags Tape Measure Paint Brush Grouts ABA Easy Grout 750gm bottle White Black Slate Grey Grout sealer Aerosol Sameday Grout Sealer 443mL Tile Leveller SALS Washer (400 pc bag) SALS Stems (400 pc bucket) SALS Caps (400 pc bucket) Tools Adhesive Trowel 10mm Gauging Trowel 200mm Screed ABA Abascreed Waterproofing STB Tape ABA Waterproofer Rapid 15L Ardex Rubber Grout Float Coscut Tile Cutter 500mm Knee Pads Ardex Marking Pencils Straight Edge 2100mm DTA Professional 3 Vial Level 600mm Ardex Micro Sponge

3 PREPARE & CLEAN A BATHROOM FOR TILING tip: Before you start tiling, ensure you ve picked your bathroomware and chosen where it will go in your bathroom. Changing your plumbing fixtures becomes much more difficult after you start tiling! Any tiling job will only be as good as the surface it s laid on. It s important to ensure that, no matter what surface you re tiling on, the surface is sound, level and clean of dust and debris. Most floor surfaces are concrete or timber, while plasterboard is common for walls. Concrete: For best results, the concrete must be allowed to cure for a minimum 28 days before it is tiled over. Steel trowelled concrete must be mechanically roughened (and then thoroughly washed) prior to tiling or there will not be enough adhesion. All concrete release agents and curing compounds must be removed by mechanical means. For cracks larger than 1.5mm consult your local suppliers. Timber flooring: Due to the normal expansion and contraction of the timber, it is never recommended to adhere ceramic tiles directly onto timber floors. Untreated floors should be primed and allowed to dry prior to tiling. Plasterboard: Plasterboard is a very common indoor wall surface, but is not suitable for tiling without waterproofing. Tiling over plasterboard involves adhering tiles to a paper surface, and although this will present little problem in dry areas, if the wallboard is subject to moisture it may deteriorate causing failure. Plasterboard should be waterproofed before tiling. Information on other types of wall and floor surfaces can be found on the Tiling Wall and Floor Surfaces page on our website. PRIME THE SURFACE FOR TILING Use a primer with a sponge or roller to prime & prepare all surfaces that are to be tiled. We are using Ardex MultiPrime which is a water-based primer.

4 DIY CREATE A SHOWER HOB After the surface is primed, mark out the area of your shower hob. A standard shower hob is 900mm x 900mm, but a larger size of 1200x1200 is great if you have the room. Start by measuring from the walls then out onto the floor, and create a line using a straight edge. Make sure the measurements are parallel and square to the walls. To check you have got it square, measure from corner to corner. Build the hob with hebel blocks. You can pick these up from most Beaumont Tile stores. Cut the hebel in half with a handyman saw. To stick the hebel down, we are using Abascreed. Pour in the water first to create a sloppy mix. Add the mix along the lines that were drawn earlier and push the hebel down into the cement. Add cement on the ends of the hebel blocks to bind them together. Once this is done, check the levels and remove any excess cement before it dries. Step 4 Before you make the screed, its important to mark the fall towards the grate drain. Australian standards state that you have to have at least a 10mm fall every 600mm. We have a 1200mm showerbase so we need at least 20mm of fall.

5 DIY CREATE A SHOWER HOB Step 5 To pour the screed, tip the pre-mixed bag into the shower area and create a well. Pour in the water and mix it in. A good way to test the consistancy is to grab a bit with your hand and let it go - it should stay together. Step 6 Repeat this process untill the base is full, and use a level to even out the surface. Don t forget to ensure the screed lines up with the marks of the fall that were created earlier. Step 7 Once the screed is dry, sweep the area and prime it once more. Then use a Neutral Core Silicone Sealer in all of the internal corners of the shower including the walls, the floor and the hebel. Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone.

6 WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing before you tile is absolutely essential. Because of this, it can pay to have a licenced waterproofer do it for you. But if you have some experience and would like to try it yourself here is how!. Having cleaned the wall and floor area thoroughly to remove all the dirt and dust, apply a liberal coating of primer using a brush. Then use Neutral Core Silicone Sealer to run a generous bead along all internal corners (wall and floor). Finish off the bead using your finger. Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone. Start by putting the Ardex STB Butynol Tape along each corner of your shower and shower hob. Also apply it along the flushing to ensure no water gets behind the grate drain. Once you have peeled off one half, remove the other half of the tape and press it all down. Once all the corners are done, use a paint roller to cover the entire wall and floor. We always insist that the total wet area is waterproofed. Step 4 After the first coat of membrane is complete and dry, apply a second coat. A good tip is to roll the first coat all in one direction and roll the second coat at 90 degrees (a right angle) to the first. Step 5 Allow the membrane to dry for 24 hours before proceeding with tiling.

7 HOW TO CUT BATHROOM TILES It s almost inevitable that some of your tiles will have to be cut to fit your wall or floor, and there will probably be some that have to be cut into a different shape as well as size. Cutting tiles is not difficult with access to decent equipment and with a little practice. If you re cutting your own tiles (and especially if you re doing this for the very first time), it s a good idea to allow a couple of extra tiles for practice or in case of any slight mishaps that may happen. In this fact sheet we show you how to make a straight cut, cut a shape, cut small shapes, and to cut away small pieces of tile. When it comes to cutting tiles, there are a few options. If you are likely to do a few tiling projects around your home, or are likely to lend specialist tools to friends, neighbours, or relatives; a tradesman s tile cutter is an excellent investment (and will make you popular with anyone else starting their own tiling projects!) If this is a once-only tiling project, then the best option will be to hire a tile cutter from your local Beaumont Tiles store. You might also consider buying a cheaper handyman tile cutter. While these can be a good option, they are not built to last a long time. They will, however, do a great job for one or two jobs around the home. TO MAKE A STRAIGHT CUT Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Place the tile in the tile cutter and run the scorer across the tile (once only!). This creates a break point in the tile. Push down the breaker. This will deliver a nice clean and evenly cut tile.

8 TO CUT A SHAPE Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Use the tile cutter to score each of the lines that will be cut. This creates a break point in the tile. Cut to the scored lines using an electric grinder. Sides first and then the middle. TO CUT A SMALL SHAPE OR TO CUT AWAY A SMALL PIECE Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Use the tile cutter to score each of the lines that will be cut. This creates a break point in the tile. Break off little pieces ( nibbles ) of the tile using a pair of tile nibblers until the mark shape has been achieved. Always break of small amounts at a time: never try to break off the whole shape at once. pro tip: Always wear safety glasses and a respirator when cutting tiles with an electric grinder.

9 CUTTING HOLES IN TILES FOR FITTINGS Cutting holes in tiles is quite easy and there are basically three options. You can either use a tradesman hole cutter, a handyman hole cutter, or you can drill and nibble the hole to the required size. Whether you use a hole cutter or a drill will depend upon what you are making the holes for. If it s for a tap or another penetration, you will need to use a hole cutter before laying the tile. If the hole is for a fitting then it can be with a drill after the tile is laid. CUTTING WITH A HOLE CUTTER The method here is the same whether you use a tradesman or handyman hole cutter. The difference between the two is that the tradesman hole cutter is a professional quality tool. While the handyman hole cutter isn t designed to last as long as the professional model, it will work well for one or two jobs around the home. Use a pencil to mark where the tile needs to be cut and mark the centre of the hole. Place the tile over a stable and suitable work surface and score with a grinder. Drill the hole using a hole cutter.

10 DRILL A HOLE FOR FITTINGS Use a pencil to mark the spot where you need to drill. Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile. Use another piece of tape to make a small well to collect the dust when we drill. This will save a lot of cleaning up! Drill the hole. Do not use the hammer function on your drill until you have drilled through the glazed surface of the tile. Remove the tape and the job is done. check it out: Diamond Core Drill Bit 38mm Diamond Core Drill Bit 50mm

11 LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES Once you ve done a trial dry lay with your tiles and your floor surface is clean and ready for tiling, so are you! These 8 steps will take you through how to lay and grout your tiles. Measure out from the wall to establish a square line and starting point (the video on our website shows how to do this). Mark the area where you will start tiling, then brush and prime the floor. Mix the adhesive (follow the manufacturer s instructions) and spread about one square metre of adhesive on the floor where you are going to start tiling. For floor tiles, we use a 12mm notched trowel to spread adhesive. By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied leaving little tracks on the floor. Once the tile is bedded into place these notches will flatten out to leave a bed of adhesive 6mm thick. Step 4 Place each tile in position with a firm push and bed it into place with a slight up and down wiggle across the notches of the adhesive. Every now and then, lift a tile to check that it has complete coverage with the adhesive. We recommend the SALS tile levelling system by Ardex to ensure there is no lipping on the surface, and which doubles as a spacer. Position at the corner of each tile and screw down the caps. This will give you a more professional finish. check it out: SALS Washers (400 pc bag) SALS Stems (400 pc bucket) SALS Caps (400 pc bucket)

12 LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES Step 5 Clean off any excess adhesive from the face of the tiles as you work. Allow the adhesive 24 hours to dry before grouting. NOW IT IS TIME TO GROUT While grouting is not a difficult process, a well-grouted job can make all the difference to the finished project. Cleaning, buffing and polishing (with thorough repeating!) will pay untold dividends. Step 6 When mixing the grout, add the powder to the water to ensure a thorough mix with no lumps. Mix to a thick paste-like consistency. Apply the grout. Push it into the joints and compress by wiping over at an angle across the joints. Do not apply grout to the corners where walls meet floors and where two walls meet. Silicone will need to be applied here. Remove all the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry and for a film to set on the face of the tiles (this will take about an hour). Step 7 Clean up with a damp (but not too wet) sponge. Do not wash the floor or overly wet the surface. The trick is to lift the film without wetting the actual grouted joint. Make sure that you wipe on a 45 degree angle and keep rinsing the sponge as you work. Step 8 After most of the grout is removed from the tile, buff over it with clean cloths. check it out: This pre-mixed grout can be squeezed into the joins ABA Easy Grout 750gm bottle White Black Slate Grey 90577

13 TILE A BATHROOM WALL The secret to tiling a wall perfectly is all in the edges: the bottom row of tiles, and the column of tiles in the corner need to be perfectly level. Calculate how high you will tile on the wall. The standard height of a shower is 2.1 metres. We are using 600mm tiles, so measure down from the top every 600mm until the bottom of the last full tile, then draw a level line. The space between that line and the top of the shower line should be equal across the line. Measure along the bottom of the shower to the floor and mark the walls. Then line up the tiles for the bottom row and cut them to fit below the line. Back-butter the tiles and push them onto the wall. Check that you have full coverage of the adhesive. Step 4 You can use a tile levelling system to ensure there is no lipping on the surface, which doubles as a spacer. Don t screw your first row down until you re happy where the tiles are. If there are any gaps under the tiles, use wedges to hold them up. The first row should be perfectly level. Step 5 Continue with the next rows, checking the level as you go. With pre-mixed wall adhesive, we use a 6mm notched trowel (check the instructions on the pack) to apply the adhesive to the wall. When applying wall adhesive, we always suggest that the notches run horizontally. Step 6 Once the glue is dry knock out the clips. Its essential that you knock them out in the same direction as the grout line.