Niche 2.0: the future of niche perfumery and its search for meaning

Transcription

1 Niche 2.0: the future of niche perfumery and its search for meaning Eddie Bulliqi Fragrance journalist

2 Niche is the new normal. John Demsey, Executive Group President, The Estée Lauder Companies

3 It is important to remember that niche is in fact not new. Perfumery of the 1920s, 30s, and 40s was aimed at wealthy city people and was not mass market.

4 The key dimension of the luxury goods category is that as soon as you get used to something you want something better. Niche today is just part of that and came along as a rescue to reinvigorate the luxury segment with new forms. Michael Edwards, Fragrance Expert, Fragrances of the World

5 problem context history concepts semiotics future

6 the problem

7 the example

8

9

10 more meaning

11 limited range

12 limited communication

13 limited contexts

14 limited voices

15 lack of theses & arguments

16 what are you trying to say? a pretty rose is not enough

17 is it impossible to convey complex concepts with fragrance forms?

18 what would need to change for conceptual range to become a reality?

19 the context

20 some figures

21 1200 annual launches per sector selective mass artisan

22 1400 annual launches by gender feminine masculine shared

23 100% family % of total niche launches per year 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0% citrus water green fruity aromatic fougere soft floral floral floral oriental soft oriental oriental woody oriental woods dry woods mossy woods

24

25 millennials

26 hipsters

27 #

28 the history

29 the pioneers

30

31

32 the next gen

33

34

35 the commercial

36

37 the current

38

39

40 counterpart strategy

41 the concepts

42 The niche market has not revolutionized the industry yet either one more chypre, one more oud, one more tuberose. Christophe Laudamiel, Perfumer, DreamAir

43 the classics

44 the new school

45 the conceptual elastic band is tightening

46 the apex

47 olfactory art

48 semiotics

49 in language

50 in images

51

52 in music

53 in scent

54 muddling medium & materials

55 material as theme

56

57 how to overcome the olfactory-semiotic barrier?

58 the future is about

59 extremes

60 The salute of real niche business will come from a more luxury approach with innovative and higher qualitative propositions in terms of ingredients or technology. And it won t be for everybody. Antoine Lie, Perfumer

61 enhancement

62 For consumers to walk into a perfumery store, niche brands will need to offer an intense experience which the online experience will not be able to compete with. Judith Gross, EAME Creative Director, Fine Fragrances, IFF

63 celebrating subjectivity

64 We think we have a really rosy future ahead of us, as long as the sector retains that pinch of folly that a creative field like ours cannot do without. Silvio Levi, Co-founder, Calé / Esxence / nose

65 specificity

66 I think that niche and artisanal perfumery will become increasingly heterogeneous, playing to the fractured subcultures to be found on the internet - much like independent movies have.

67 Moreover, I sense that it will move away from the traditional forms of perfume ; get weirder and weirder, in other words, in order to hone in on more specific tastes. Saskia Wilson-Brown, Founder, The Institute for Art and Olfaction

68 new perfumer intake

69 Where are the Spielbergs the Elon Musks and the Harvards of the perfume industry? [Innovation will come] from new ways of teaching perfumery and from reckless students, artists, designers and engineers. Christophe Laudamiel, Perfumer, DreamAir

70 DIY

71 I envision a future where artisanal perfumery brands and independent perfumers combine with the new possibilities of online commerce to develop a hugely exciting and vibrant set of new business models, new approaches to perfumery, and new engagement of consumers. It s going to be great!! Felix Mayr-Harting, Global Head of Fine Fragrances, Givaudan

72 killing curiosity & refining inspiration

73 For me, niche perfumery is the most relevant way to achieve freedom in my creative approach. Meeting artistic directors that [ask] me for new breakthrough creations and pushing me to continuously research and find something new', this fuels my work and my future. Luca Maffei, Perfumer & CEO, Atelier Fragranze Milano

74 expert storytelling

75 After the explosion and acquisition of niche brands over the last 10 years, the cards are being redistributed. [For brands to survive] they will have to be qualitative, aspirational, and disruptive tell real stories, and bring to their consumers a new and precious sensory experience. Juliette Karagueuzoglou, Senior Perfumer, IFF

76 cheers!