INSTALLATION GUIDE COMPOSITE DECKING

Transcription

1 COMPOSITE DECKING

2 CONTENTS 1 Basic components of a deck 2 Tools & materials 2.1 Tools 2.2 Materials 3 Eva-Last specialised systems 3.1 HULK screws / Table1: HULK screws 3.2 G-STRUCT 3.3 TITAN support pads 4 Joist spacing / Table 2: Joist spacing 5 Before installation: Tips for planning ahead 6 Before installation: Site inspection 7 Tips: Decking & materials 8 Before installation: Choosing your substructure / Table 3: Framing solutions 9 Tips: Substructure 10 Before installation: Choosing your Eva-Last boards / Table 4: Eva-Last profiles 11 Tips: Boards 12 Before installation: Quantification & ordering of Eva-Last materials 13 Before installation: Transporting Eva-Last deck boards 14 Preparation: Designing your deck 15 Preparation: Deck layouts & plans 16 Tips: Joists 17 Preparation: Setting the deck poles / Table 5: Timber poles vs steel poles 18 Preparation: Framing your deck 19 Preparation: Double joists on butt joins 20 Installation: Expansion & contraction of decking boards / Table 6: Expansion 21 Installation: Laying the decking Tips: Deck build & detail Tips: Pre-drilling/fixing Tips: Fascias 22 Installing deck boards as stairs 23 Installing deck boards at an angle 24 After installation 25 Don ts

3 Thank you for choosing Eva-Last decking. You can be assured that you are installing a bamboo-plastic composite product that is one of the most durable, highest performing and long lasting in its class. This installation guide was developed to help limit installation faults and workmanship, and to help you complete decking installations that last and conform to warranty specifications. Before beginning installation, please make sure you have registered your product online and that you have read and are familiar with all our warranty terms & conditions, available at This installation guide describes the processes involved in building a standard square, single level deck. Please bear in mind that decks of varying shapes may require different calculations and techniques. Please do not hesitate to contact Eva-Last should you need any technical assistance at any stage of your build. 1. Basic components of a deck 1. Foundation & post 2. Bearer 3. Joist 4. Eva-Last deck board 5. Eva-Last fascia 6. Cladding 7. Clips 8. HULK screws

4 2. Tools & Materials 2.1 Tools Eva-Last decking products require the same tools as those used for the installation of traditional timber decks. In order to properly install an Eva-Last deck you will need the following tools: MITRE SAW with properly sharpened carbide tipped cutting blades CIRCULAR SAW with properly sharpened carbide tipped cutting blades HAND TOOLS SQUARES Combination squares set squares CORDLESS DRILL (with clutch and screw driver HULK bits provided in every pack of HULK screws) LEVELS Spirit level, laser level and pipe levels MEASURING TAPE CHALK LINER PEN AND PAPER AUGER SPADE SAFETY EQUIPMENT 2.2 Materials In order to properly install an Eva-Last deck you will need the following materials: Eva-Last decking boards Fascia boards Clips Clip screws Top fixing screws Carriage bolts Coach screws Beams to support the decking Poles Cement/concrete String/line Marker boards Bidim Gravel Starter clips Locking clips Frame screws Truss clips Truss hangers Hurricane/purlin clips HULK screws 3.

5 3. Eva-Last Specialised Systems Eva-Last has developed a range of complete and durable specialised systems that work together with Eva-Last boards to ensure longevity and stability of the deck. 3.1 HULK fasteners Eva-Last exclusively recommends HULK screws to provide the strongest and most durable fix for both pine and steel. HULK screws are specially coated and designed to fasten clips to a substructure, but can be used in many other wood or steel fixing applications too. HULK screws are nano-coated with zinc-epoxy corrosion resistant HCTO nano-coating and have been tested and developed under some of the heaviest loads and in the most ruthless of conditions. They use an advanced bit lock system which maximises torque transfer, assembly speed and extends the life of your bits and screws. They are undeniably Eva-Last s most superior choice when it comes to any long-term or outdoor application as they are built to withstand the worst. HULK screws are available in both high strength stainless steel, as well as high-strength carbon steel. Stainless steel clips are passivated with corrosion resistant zinc with colour added. Zinc increases corrosion resistance and prevents galvanic oxidation. It also makes the clip dark so that it is camouflaged between the boards. Sharp point screw for wood 500 units per box x 40 mm stainless steel, nano coated screw x 40 mm black, nano coated screw hrs salt spray tested Screws are specially designed for quick and easy installation into wood. Z-tip screw for metal 500 units per box x 40 mm stainless steel, black, nano coated screw x 40 mm black, nano coated screw hrs salt spray tested Z-point (tek) screws are specially designed for quick and easy installation into metal Fastening bits * Every HULK box contains a fastening bit. Timber framing screw 200 units per box x 80 mm, TX 30, structural framing screw, pan washer head, nano coated 2000 hrs C4 approved salt spray x 100 mm, TX 30, structural framing screw, pan washer head, nano coated 2000 hrs C4 approved Timber framing screws are specially designed to fix pine to pine. Top fixing screw 250 units per box - 5 x 50 mm stainless steel, natural trim head - 5 x 50 mm stainless steel, brown trim head Top fixing screws are specially designed to drill through composite boards with ease. With a built in roller, each screw automatically cleans out the drilled hole, ensuring that the screw doesn t have any loose bits between itself and the board. Can be use for general use with wood. * Remember it is good practise to pre-drill with HULK. We suggest using a screwdriver with rpm in order to achieve consistent results. 4.

6 HULK screws HULK screws can be used for: deck construction, outdoor furniture assembly, garden applications, cladding, outdoor frames and pergolas. Remember it is good practise to pre-drill with HULK. We suggest using a screwdriver with rpm in order to achieve consistent results. Table 1: HULK screws TYPE CLIP SCREW TOP FIXING SCREW FRAME FIXING AVAILABLE IN HI STRENGTH CARBON STEEL HCTO (Zinc-epoxy treated) AVAILABLE IN STAINLESS STEEL UNITS PER BOX SCREW NOTES WOOD APPLICATION HULK Sharp point, black, nano coated screw for wood HULK Sharp point, 304 stainless steel, screw for wood Can be used for top fixing. Not recommended Clip & general purpose screw Top fixing & general purpose screw Clip screw used for wood applications Used to fix composite boards to wood. Different colours available Note: Every HULK box contains a fastening bit. WOOD APPLICATION HULK Sharp point, nano coated, zinc-epoxy framing screw, with washer head 200 Timber framing screw Used to fasten wood to wood. 100 mm / 80 mm available METAL APPLICATION HULK Z-point, black, nano coated screw for metal Can be used for top fixing 500 Clip & general purpose screw Used for metal applications Note: Every HULK box contains a fastening bit. * Remember it is good practise to pre-drill with HULK and counter sink with trim screws Eva-Last specialised systems: HULK decking clips HULK decking clips offer a fast and simple installation solution. They are designed for use with HULK screws to provide a hidden fastening system that gives a clean, neat finish to your deck installation. Halo clip Double sided locking clip Single sided locking clip 5.

7 3.2 G-STRUCT The G-STRUCT system is a highly durable top end framing system, designed by Eva-Last specifically for the Eva-Last range of composite products. This galvanised steel system is ideal for elevated structures, is highly durable and is a maintenancefree sub-structure solution. G-STRUCT offers the highest performance in strength, stability and durability available for your deck frame. Benefits Suitable for all outdoor and indoor framing applications Light weight Open channel - Open channels allow the frame to breathe - Does not trap moisture - a well built deck will drain water and last longer Manufactured from pre-galvanised coil - Sections are always straight - No seam welds - Galvanising is heavy duty (Z275) Rapid assembly system - No welding The benefits of the G-STRUCT system are obvious and with the latest manufacturing technologies employed, the cost of G-STRUCT is low, tempting customers away from traditional materials such as pressure treated lumber which may warp or rot. The G-STRUCT system is well suited to those who place value on the lifespan of their investment in their outdoor living area. G-STRUCT components G-STRUCT bearer/joist Tek screw Truss bracket Truss bracket Carriage bolt Concrete base 6.

8 3.3 TITAN support pads TITAN height adjustable support pads offer fast, simple, durable and specialised support solutions when fixing is not an option. TITAN support pads have been stringently tested and specifically designed for surfaces that have been water proofed, as there is no risk of the membrane beneath getting pierced or damaged. They are the ideal building solution for semi-permanent decking, paving and areas where very high clearance from the deck is required or where continual or minor changes to the height is needed. The support pads consist of four parts: the base plate, a threaded stem, a nut fixing and the head plate, complete with positioning lugs. The nut fixing is simply screwed onto the stem and rotated up or down to change the height. The stems have a range of up to 35 mm at each size and can be wound up and down to create level paving. In this way, precise and irregular changes to the level can be achieved in a very short time and with little effort. TITAN support pads are available in fixed heights of 25 mm and 35 mm, and in adjustable height sizes ranging from 35 mm to 220 mm. These robust support pads can withstand concentrated loads of 400 kg each, and the 200 mm diameter base plate allows the weight to be evenly spread to avoid point loading onto the deck beneath. Eva-Last board TITAN support pads Fascia Waterproofing Applications where TITAN support pads are the ideal solution: - Sites where there are changes in levels by a very small or irregular amount - Sites where there is a continuous fall over a large area - Sites where there are multiple and complicated changes in the fall and levels - Surfaces where high clearance is required - Waterproofed surfaces - Roofs and roof decks - Balconies - Terraces - Paved surfaces - Semi-permanent decking 7.

9 Benefits of TITAN support pads: There is no risk of the waterproofing membrane being pierced or damaged. Height adjustable. No mechanical fixing required. Allows for good drainage therefore preventing localised flooding. Creates the highest level finish. Can tolerate loads of 400 kg per unit. Virgin material ensures weight tolerance & strength is consistent. Creates a completely flat upper surface on roofs built-to-falls in a safe & efficient way. The cavity can be used to hide eyesores such as water pipes, electricity cables etc. The weight of the slab holds the whole system in place. Slope correction. Can simply be wound up and down to create level paving, saving time & labour. Manufactured from injection moulded polypropylene. 4. Joist spacing Please consult the chart below to ensure sufficient material and proper spacing of substructure joists for your deck before beginning installation. Table 2: Joist spacing Joist spacing with an angle BOARDS mm 350 mm 280 mm 200 mm SOLID PROFILE 300 mm 260 mm 220 mm 150 mm ARCHED PROFILE SOLID PROFILE 400 mm 350 mm 280 mm 200 mm SOLID PROFILE 300 mm 260 mm 220 mm 150 mm HOLLOW PROFILE 300 mm 260 mm 220 mm 150 mm 8.

10 5. Before installation: Tips for planning ahead The installation of an Eva-Last deck is a big investment and should be viewed as a serious building project. Installation plays a huge role in the longevity and lifetime of your deck and will have a direct influence on performance as well as warranty. If at any stage of the installation you need advice or assistance, please contact Eva-Last. We are here to help make each and every step of the installation process a success. Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. It is important that you have a solid understanding of the planning and installation process to guarantee that Eva-Last products are installed correctly. Attention to detail and careful planning are necessary throughout the entire installation process. Make sure you familiarise yourself with this guide before beginning installation. Warranty claims will be subject to compliance with specifications outlined in this Installation Guide Good time management of your build can ensure you save money and avoid the hassle and stress of a rushed job. If you can, start planning months in advance to avoid any nasty surprises. When planning a deck, consider it as an extension to the outdoor living area rather than just an outdoor floor. Decks can incorporate comfort, fun and interesting elements. You may want to incorporate a fire pit, braai area, shower etc. Contact Eva-Last if you need some ideas or assistance with this. There are no limits to what is possible. Combinations of colours, particularly on a border around your deck or on the fascia will highlight and accent your deck. Experiment, explore and try something that will give your space beautiful aesthetic appeal. Think about adding lighting, either leading to and/or on your deck. Down lights, spotlights, stair lights, anything is possible. Lighting can really add life, looks impressive and can bring a wonderful ambience to your deck. When fitting lights, the diameter of the light should exceed the size of the hole, making it sit on the surface slightly. 6. Before installation: Site inspection Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. Assess your proposed project site and take into account elements such as wind, shade, and seasonal changes. How will these impact your garden space? If you re building a raised deck, will it affect the lighting in your living space should your garden space be uneven. Would it be better to build terraced decking? Will your existing plants need to be removed or will planters be built around them? Will you be planting near any water or electricity lines? Will your deck require a balustrade? These are only a few things to think about that may impact the installation and enjoyment of your deck. Inspect and assess the ground and/or surface below your project site before installing Eva-Last products. This should be a dry flat area. For uneven surfaces allow for substructure alterations to create an even base for Eva-Last decking profiles. Pre-installation checklist! (Assessment of the site and area) - Ground conditions - Soil type - Drainage - Flood test/drainage - Storm water drains - How is the roof pitched? - Has the ground been compacted? (Consult with engineer) - Will the ground wash away or subside? (Consult with engineer) - Exposure to sunlight - Plants/trees near the site that may spill sap or residue onto the deck - Where do all the gutters flow to? 9.

11 Ensure the building site allows sufficient deck ventilation and drainage. Ventilation beneath a deck is important for evaporation and condensation. If water is able to get underneath a deck for any reason it must be able to get out. Composite by nature is a fairly warm material and would promote condensation under a deck if it were air tight. For that reason it is important to leave a (recommended) 40 mm gap beneath fascia boards to allow for proper ventilation from beneath the fascia and out through the gaps in the deck boards. Completely sealing a deck would not only have the potential to cause harm to the substructure by constantly leaving it in a wet environment, but also potentially promote the growth of mould. For non-screed surfaces, plan a minimum of 100 mm elevation space between the ground and the bottom of your lowest bearer. For screed surfaces, decking profiles must be elevated a minimum of 30 mm above the ground. This guideline is based on the smallest profile (composite batten) other profiles may vary. NB! Account for sufficient room for expansion and contraction of Eva-Last boards, as the profiles contain plastic that will expand and contract more so than actual timber. The expansion and contraction of these profiles must be considered when installing. Sufficient expansion gaps must be left at butt joins as well as where the profiles meet fixed objects. The rate of expansion of the profiles is calculated at 3 mm per running metre. (See Installation: Expansion & contraction of decking boards ). Note: Eva-Last strongly recommends getting a qualified expert such as a civil engineer or architect to check the site before construction begins, especially on new building sites in order to assess whether the ground has been compacted correctly or not and is suitable for decking or light construction. It should be checked for various elements such as storm water drains etc (If the site is elevated to a height of more than 1.5 m, then you need to check the building codes.) Eva-Last can help you find an approved engineer or architect should you need one. If you have any questions at any stage of your installation, please get in touch with Eva-Last. 10.

12 7. Tips: Decking and materials Leave a maximum of 50 mm overhang of Eva-Last profiles from substructure joists. Consider temperature at the time of installation. This is important for installation considering contraction and expansion allowance. We recommend placing Eva-Last profiles on-site at least 72 hours before installation. Avoid pre-cutting Eva-Last boards, as not every construction wall is straight. Remember that Eva-Last material is heavier and more flexible than natural timber. Be sure to take care when transporting, carrying or when working with it. Make sure that you have enough boards for your project. Nothing slows a project down more than having to collect more boards. Decking last is best. If you are in the middle of building, it is best to leave installation of your deck to the end in order to avoid your deck being ruined by painting, welding or general construction Manage your site. Be sure to take note of your work area, make sure that you can get all your material and equipment onto site. 8. Before installation: Choosing your substructure Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. There are many ways to build and install substructures and decks. Each and every application needs to be assessed accordingly before beginning any installation. Building codes need to be adhered to and all Eva-Last installation guidelines need to be followed in order for warranties to be valid. Assess and select the most suitable sub-structure after and based on your site inspection. Eva-Last deck boards must always be installed on top of approved structural material. Eva-Last deck boards cannot be installed directly onto the ground, nor can they rest on a brick or concrete ledge. This includes any walling and/or wall structure. Boards may overhang a joist by a maximum of 50 mm, but cannot overhang the abovementioned materials/structure. Table 3: Framing solutions Three main types of framing solutions: Composite battern Pine G-STRUCT 11.

13 Choosing your substructure Composite battens - Good for use on self-supporting surfaces like tiles, concrete and screeded surfaces. - High moisture resistance qualities and are perfect for low lying, level surfaces and spaces where you don t have a lot of height to work with. - They are also well suited to cladding applications due to their highly durable properties. CCA treated pine frame - Made from natural material that requires maintenance. - It expands and contracts with moisture. - It has intricate workings. - If you can t access it, it will dry out. Important: Structural wood must be a minimum of H3 CCA treated! G-STRUCT - Galvanised steel system. - Extremely stable. - Ideal for elevated structures. - Highly durable. - Doesn t dry out. - Pre-galvanised. - No need for metal working skills. - Smart fixing solution. - Galvanised coatings may corrode. - Preferential to steel. - No need for welding. Aluminium - Ultra durable. - Great for cladding and furniture. - Not ideal for framing as it is expensive and not as stiff as steel or pine. Stainless steel - Expensive but very durable. - Not ideal for all applications. - Difficult to work with. - Not easy to weld. 12.

14 9. Tips: Substructure Composite as a substructure Eva-Last products, other than the composite joist for use on self supporting surfaces, are for decking and accessory use only and should not be used as substructure material. Consider what is under your deck The footing of the structure will sink if water accumulates on the deck especially, in one centralised area. Remember to check that the soil is compacted correctly and has a gradient/slope so that water can drain away sufficiently. Leave a maximum of 50 mm overhang of Eva-Last profiles from substructure joists 10. Before installation: Choosing your Eva-Last boards Decide on which boards to use based on: 1. Your personal preferences and lifestyle 2. Moisture and drainage conditions 3. Direct sunlight - if your projects site is an area that receives a lot of light, you may want to choose a lighter colour that will absorb less heat Eva-Last has taken great time and care in perfecting each and every profile design, ensuring that each board performs at its best and works perfectly with all the other building components and fixings. Each Eva-Last profile consists of a mixture of eco-friendly bamboo and wood fibres, plus High-Density-Polyethylene (HDPE) - plastic, mixed with colourants and high-grade UV stabilisers that give boards their durability and longevity, able to withstand the harshest climates. Each Eva-Last profile has been designed with a specific purpose in mind, whether for residential or commercial use. Each profile is also available in various finishes and colours, ensuring you have the best possible choices available for your project. All Eva-Last boards are designed with a hidden clip system. As a result we have created a groove along the side of the board. ANATOMY OF A BAMBOO-PLASTIC COMPOSITE DECKING PROFILE 13.

15 Infinity TM co-extruded composite decking Eva-Last is proud to introduce the latest in bamboo-plastic composite innovation. This decking profile incorporates the revolutionary surface material Dura-tech and has weather, stain and fade resistance like no other. Infinity TM is now not only the best performing decking profile on the African continent, but also the most attractive. Infinity TM is highly versatile and performs in all residential, commercial and even high traffic industrial applications. Item number Item description Colours Dimensions mm Mass per L/m Infinity TM decking Spanish Saffron 140 x kg DI.*142058* Kona Sunset Std length mm Mass per plank Tiger Cove Sapphire Silver kg Lm/m 2 Max joist spacing on centres Planks/m 2 Pallet mass kg Planks/pallet m 2/ pallet mm Infinity TM Arched, co-extruded composite decking The arched profile offers a versatile solution that brings you a lighter-weight, cost effective option with all the benefits Infinity has to offer. Dura-tech capping on the top surface gives arched Infinity boards their moisture-resistant properties, ensuring they will not warp, crack or rot. Stain and fade resistance are also some of Infinity s most attractive features, making it one of the most hard-wearing and sought-after composites around. Available in 4 wood-inspired colours, the arched Infinity profile is perfect for residential applications, especially around the poolside, as it s anti-slip properties make it safe for the entire family. Item number Item description Colours Dimensions mm Mass per L/m Infinity TM Arched decking Spanish Saffron 140 x kg DI.CA*142358* Kona Sunset Std length mm Mass per plank Tiger Cove Sapphire Silver kg Lm/m 2 Max joist spacing on centres Planks/m 2 Pallet mass kg Planks/pallet m 2/ pallet mm

16 When considering strength and stability, the Summit decking profile sets itself apart. The dimensions and weight of Summit elevate its performance to the top of its class. Summit has superior moisture resistance, load-bearing capacity and stability and it is unrivalled in the extreme African climate. These properties make Summit a great choice for any decking application. Summit s characteristic of sheer strength makes it the obvious choice for marine, industrial, commercial and high traffic applications. Item number Item description Colours Dimensions mm Mass per L/m Eva-tech TM Summit decking Aruna Rusteak 146 x kg DS.*142458* Merbau Std length mm Mass per plank Pebble Xavia kg Lm/m 2 Max joist spacing on centres Planks/m 2 Pallet mass kg Planks/pallet m 2/ pallet mm The Eva-tech TM Classic decking profile is a superb alternative to hardwood timber. Classic is designed to emulate reeded timber planks commonly used for decking applications. The more streamlined dimension and unique Riided finish gives this product a classic, distinguished finish that resembles popular narrowed plank designs, synonymous with decking solutions. Classic s solid design makes it as workable as natural wood and is a favourite for decking novices and professionals alike. Item number Item description Colours Dimensions mm Mass per L/m Eva-tech TM Classic decking Aruna Rusteak 138 x kg DC.*142429* Merbau Std length mm Mass per plank Pebble Xavia kg Lm/m 2 Max joist spacing on centres Planks/m 2 Pallet mass kg Planks/pallet m 2/ pallet mm

17 Our legacy product Eva-tech TM Ascent was the first design in our extensive range. It has made a lasting impression and continues to help create the most desirable outdoor spaces. Ascent has a light weight, hollow core design that is ideal for any deck which requires a low mass solution. It can also be integrated seamlessly with the Summit profile. Due to its high strength to weight ratio, Eva-tech TM Ascent is the ideal profile for cladding applications. It delivers great value for money, making it a popular choice for residential decks. Item number Item description Colours Dimensions mm Mass per L/m Eva-tech TM Ascent decking Aruna Rusteak 146 x kg DA.*142458* Merbau Std length mm Mass per plank Pebble Xavia kg Lm/m 2 Max joist spacing on centres Planks/m 2 Pallet mass kg Planks/pallet m 2/ pallet mm Table 4: Eva-Last profiles Please make sure you refer to the below table when fitting your boards PROFILE Width of board Number of Lm In a m Number of clips / m Plank weight per Lm Substructure joist spacing SOLID PROFILE 140 mm 6,89 m 22 4,33 kg 400 mm ARCHED PROFILE 140 mm 6,89 m 24 3,31 kg 350 mm SOLID PROFILE 146 mm 6,62 m 22 4,74 kg 400 mm SOLID PROFILE 138 mm 6,99 m 25 3,6 kg 300 mm HOLLOW PROFILE 146 mm 6,62 m 25 3,75 kg 300 mm 16.

18 CHOOSING YOUR EVA-LAST DECKING PROFILE Recommended applications BOARD RESIDENTIAL RESIDENTIAL POOL ROOF TOP COMMERCIAL LARGE PUBLIC POOL RESTAURANT WILDERNESS LODGES JETTI S & BOARDWALKS COASTAL DESERT HOT / HUMID CLADDING TRAFFIC TYPE NOTES 1ST GENERATION PROFILES 2ND GENERATION PROFILE INFINITY SOLID INFINITY ARCHED SUMMIT SOLID CLASSIC SOLID ASCENT HOLLOW Note: All bits are provided in the container, only KTX bits are recommended. All types Light/ medium Heavy Light/ medium Light This decking profile is highly versatile and performs in all residential,commercial and even high traffic industrial applications. This decking profile is highly versatile and performs in all residential and semicommercial applications. The Summit decking profiles strength makes it the obvious choice in marine, industrial, commercial and high traffic applications. Classic s solid design makes it as workable as natural wood and is a favourite for decking novices and professionals alike. Due to its high strength to weight ratio, Ascent is the ideal profile for cladding applications. It delivers great value for money, making it a popular choice for residential decks. Recommended Possible but best results not guarenteed 11. Tips: Boards When using the Ascent profile, get some boards in the Summit profile for the first line. If staining is an issue for you, we would recommend the Infinity TM profile. The Ascent profile is good for cladding as it is light in weight. Dimensions of the boards may change in various weather conditions i.e. dry, moist, hot, cold etc. When fitting a hollow board, do not counter sink through the board. Summit and Ascent profiles (both solid boards) are identical in dimension. Solid boards have about 10 times more strength, stiffness and stability vs. hollow boards. 17.

19 12. Before installation: Quantification & ordering of Eva-Last materials Find the area of your proposed deck By working out the area of your deck, you are able to work out the quantities you will need to your deck. NB: This is not always the most accurate method and will require that an appropriate amount of waste be added. Keep in mind the standard length of Eva-Last boards; 5.8 metres and 2.9 metres. If your build allows, try work to these standard sizes in order to keep costs down and reduce wastage. When calculating the amount of Eva-Last product you require, remember to take wastage into account. 10% wastage is a good average to work with for a square deck, and round/curved decks will have approx 15-20% wastage, however please keep in mind that you will still need to do calculations as this can vary massively depending on the shape and design of your deck. Initial quantification For the purpose of basic quantification, area formulation is the quickest and simplest method of finding out what you need. This may work for a perfectly square deck; however you may need to seek assistance for more complicated decks and shapes. It often helps to draw out the deck area and break it into shapes. Ordering When placing orders for Eva-Last boards, the following information is required to make certain that you receive exactly what you need: - Quantities and lengths - The profile you require - The finish you require - The colour you would like - What substructure you will be using (steel/pine/g-struct) so that our sales team can assess which fixings will be best. - Will you require delivery or will you collect. (Please take note that delivery takes between 7 and 14 working days.) If you are unsure of the quantities needed or unsure of which boards are most appropriate for your application or if you have architectural plans that you d like assistance with, Eva-Last is available to assist. 13. Before installation: Transporting Eva-Last deck boards Length Eva-Last boards are available in 2.9 m and 5.8 m lengths. It is highly advisable that any collection of Eva-Last boards be done in a vehicle long enough to hold the boards without bending them, in order to avoid the boards becoming damaged during transportation. 6 m long trailers and trucks should be used for transportation. Boards must be secured properly before transportation. If you do not have a long vehicle available, boards can be cut at our warehouse before collection. An additional fee will be charged for this service. We also offer a delivery service, where your boards and other components can be delivered to your project site. 18.

20 Transporting Eva-Last deck boards Stacking The best method of stacking is the pyramid method or brick layers method. By shifting the layers of boards halfway across a board s length, the chances of the boards sliding apart are lower and therefore safer. Though the pyramid method is safer for storage purposes, it is not always the most practical. If it is necessary to stack boards, be sure not to stack them too high. Make certain that the height of the stack does not exceed the width of the stack. When stacking boards for transportation, please make sure that the boards are secure, and that there is an even distribution of load. Pyramid method or brick layers method Vertical stacking On-site Place Eva-Last deck boards on-site 72 hours before installation to allow acclimatisation to the environment. Once the boards have reached the building site, ensure that they are stored on level ground. It is recommended that the boards not be stored directly on the ground and are covered. If the boards need to be stored for long periods, pack the boards on top of pallets. 19.

21 Weight & load Eva-Last boards are naturally quite heavy and it is important to be aware of this, especially when transporting heavy loads. It is therefore vital to plan ahead before loading boards onto any vehicle. WEIGHT CHART BOARD TYPE Board length (m) Mass (kg) per plank Planks per m 2 Mass (kg) per m 2 Kg per 10m 2 Kg per 50m 2 Kg per 100m 2 Kg per 500m 2 Kg per 1000m 2 INFINITY TM INFINITY TM Arched SUMMIT CLASSIC ASCENT INFINITY FASCIA Weight per m FASCADE FASCIA CLAD FASCIA TRIM FASCIA Preparation: Designing your deck Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. If you need any assistance in designing your deck, please contact Eva-Last. We offer professional detailing services at an additional charge. Begin with the location of your deck and decide whether it will be a free standing deck, in between structures, joining 2 structures or if it is adjoined to an existing structure (fixed deck). Think about how the deck will be accessed. Will it be accessed through a doorway or is there a path leading you to the deck? Wherever you plan to build the deck, make sure it s easily accessible. With clear access to the deck, consider how you can use the natural landscape to add interest and function to your design. When you have a general idea of where you will build the deck, you will then need to determine the size and function. If you enjoy entertaining a lot, a larger deck may be suitable to fit chairs, tables, a braai and other outdoor furniture. Think about the style best suited to the project and your lifestyle. If you have doors or windows that swing outward, make sure they will clear the railing. Note: Remember to avoid a layout that places a railing in the middle of a window. 20.

22 15. Preparation: Deck layouts & plans Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. This installation guide describes the processes involved in building a square, single level deck. Please bear in mind that other decks may require different calculations and techniques. Please do not hesitate to contact Eva-Last should you need any technical assistance at any stage of your build. No application is ever the same. Develop your plan based on the most suitable application and deck boards used for the job and according to the specific conditions. Before you begin your layout, make sure you are clear of any utility lines, and irrigation. Place your marker boards beyond the corners of your deck area. If there is no room for a marker board, use a single stake and drive a nail into the top. Tie string to the marker boards, marking the outside edges of your deck plan. Tie the string to a nail. (Spray paint is a good alternative to string and also works well.) Check that the string is level and square. Take measurements of the site and make sure you triangulate from corner to corner. (Measure the diagonals of the layout.) You will layout a square when the diagonals are equal. Make any adjustments and attach the strings in their final positions with screws. To mark the holes for the foundation posts, determine the foundation spacing. This spacing depends on: 1. The size of your beams 2. Local building codes and 3. The design of your deck Use another set of strings to line up the posts. Once you know the spacing, measure in from the side strings and use a plumb bob to mark the holes. Place a stake at each spot or spray paint the position. If the deck is fixed, you need to mark the height of the beams along the building as a reference. First, determine where the deck will sit in relation to the door. It should be below the threshold to keep the water from entering. Measure down the thickness of the decking combined with the height of the joists. This will give you the height of the top of the bearer beams. Then mark a level line along this point on the building. 16. Tips: Joists Rim joists - mark spacing and lay out your joists with rim joist in mind. For complex designs you may need to curve the rim joist. You will always need perimeter joists (rim joists) for fastening fascias. Always remember to leave 25 mm - 38 mm gaps between double joists. 21.

23 17. Preparation: Setting the deck poles Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. Before constructing the frame/setting the poles, look at your drawing and plan the whole deck with your laying pattern. Remember the double joist if your boards join end to end. There are various methods for constructing footings. We recommend the footing (concrete) and post (pole) combination. Setting the deck poles Table 5: Timber poles vs steel poles TIMBER POLES STEEL POLES Cheaper Potentially more expensive Burn resistance is pretty much non existent compared to steel Insect problems such as termites (without treatment) Fire resistant Properly galv. and treated can ensure a frame that will last Rotting due to damp (without treatment) No rotting or warping Treatments used are usually poisonous, making it hazardous to burn Warps as it dries out Not as precise as steel Extremely precise If not properly treated can rust but there are ways to treat rusted steel aswell, where as with pine you would need to replace or cut away and brace any rotting parts Because it is engineered there are far more options regarding shapes and sizes of steel Wood tends to dry out over time, causing bolts and nuts to shift Slightly more difficult to work with, pre-drilled holes can help Not nearly as strong as steel Much stronger than timber Using an auger, spade or pick to dig a deep narrow hole. Make sure you get to solid ground, if the ground is soft, your footing size will need to increase. If the ground is hard rock, you will not need to go as big with footing. You will need to calculate this based on the conditions for load bearing and codes. (For hard ground 400 mm x 400 mm x 400 mm OR 400 mm x 400 mm x a third of the height of the post) Once you get to the required depth, move onto the next hole. When all the holes have been dug, check that they are all correct according to the local building code. Remove any grass and roll out the bidim over the site. The bidim holds the soil, allows water to flow through and prevents grass and weeds growing through the deck. Cut openings for the poles. 22.

24 Set the poles there are two options for doing this! Option 1 - Pour concrete into the hole. - Check that the concrete is level. - When the concrete is set, place the pole on the footing. Plant the smallest side of the pole into the ground at the bottom. - Use the layout strings to keep the posts in line. You can attach temporary braces if needed. - Check that it is plumb with a level. - Fill the hole with gravel/concrete mix. G1 mix is good. Option 2 - Place the pole in the hole. - Secure it with nails so that it grips onto the concrete. - Check that it is plumb with a level. - Use the layout strings to keep the posts in line. You can attach temporary braces if needed. - Fill the hole with concrete mix. - Slope concrete away from pole Make sure the poles reach the required height once they are set in the ground. Once all the posts are set, cover the bidim with gravel. Leave the concrete to set for at least 24 hours to ensure that the footings are solid and strong, taking the moisture content of the air and soil into consideration. 18. Preparation: Framing your deck 1. 90% of the deck is the frame. If the frame is installed correctly, everything else should fall into place. If the poles are set, the next step is to attach the bearer beams that will support the decking. You will need to use carriage bolts through the beams and poles. 2. From the chalk line, measure down the width of the beam to make a mark where you will attach cleats. Use a cleat, the same width as your beam and attach with HULK screws. Check with level. 3. Cut your beams to length. If they have a slight arc (crown), make sure the crown is always facing up (for pine) and place them on the cleats. Use a clamp if you need to then drill the bolt holes. Insert the bolts and tighten. 4. If the structure is adjoined to an existing structure (fixed) install truss hangers with coach screws/chemical anchors/shield anchor against structure to support bearers - level with line on the building. 5. Place truss hangers in place and screw bearers to truss hangers with HULK screws (pine) or Tek screws (steel). 6. Cut the poles to the top of the bearer beam. 7. Check the spacing of the joists and that they are correct. (Please refer to Table 2: Joist Spacing) 8. Starting at the beginning of a bearer (parallel or square line), roll out your tape measure and mark the required joist spacing on top of the two end bearers. 9. Once you have all your marks, extend the lines down the face of the planks using a combination square. Place an X to the right of this line, indicating that the joist will sit to the right. 23.

25 Note: When laying the surface, different patterns require different joist spacings. Standard foundation and joist spacing is 400 mm, however you will need to check the different spanning capabilities of the selected deck board you are using to determine the joist spacing for your job. (Please refer to Table 2: Joist Spacing) Now you can attach the joists. First cut the joists to length. Always apply a sealer to the cut ends and edges for pine and steel. If you are cutting G-STRUCT, please be sure to seal the ends with cold galvanised spray, or refer to the Dulus spec sheet available through Eva-Last. Attach the joists to the bearers with hurricane clips, fix with HULK screws (pine) or Tek screws (steel) Now attach the rim joist against the end joist and attach them with HULK frame screws (pine). For steel, use corner truss clips with Tek screws to attach the rim joist with the end joist. The frame should now be locked in place. 19. Preparation: Double Joists on butt joins Owing to the expansion and contraction of boards it is important to ensure that the boards are properly supported on both ends. A butt join is where two boards meet end to end, as they butt up against one another. Where the two ends of the profiles meet in a butt join, it should be met with a double joist. Double joisting with double clips with gaps in between joists allows water and dirt to run away and not into the cavity of the profiles if it is hollow. All butt joints must sit on a doubled up support joist for either timber/steel joist or composite batten. Installation of a hidden clip should be added for both, and an appropriate gap must be provided dependant on the length of the board (see 20. Installation: Expansion & contraction of decking boards). It is recommended that the double joist itself have a 20 mm gap between it to allow for drainage. Eva-Last also recommends that a top fixing screw be used to hold the board in place to prevent it from moving, as it may damage the board as moves. Double joists should be used not only for decking but also where screens are built and boards meet. Joists - Rim joists - Mark spacing and lay out your joists with rim joist in mind. For complex designs you may need to curve the rim joist. - You will always need perimeter joists (rim joists) for fastening the fascias. - Always remember to leave mm gaps between double joists. Locking clips - Use locking clips at butt joins, especially when you have two long lengths of board next to one another. - Use locking clips to control expansion. 24.

26 20. Installation: Expansion & contraction of decking boards Composite, just like timber, expands and contracts, though for different reasons. Timber expands and contracts due to water absorption, in direct proportion to the increase and decrease of moisture in the air. Bamboo-plastic composite moves directly as a result of thermo-expansion, or temperature related expansion. The expansion and contraction of Eva-Last boards must be accounted for when planning installation. Sufficient expansion gaps must be left at butt joins as well as where the profiles meet fixed objects. RATE OF EXPANSION OF AN EVA-LAST PROFILE is 3 mm p/m Thermal expansion is the tendency of matter to change its volume in response to change in temperature. As a result materials expand and contract in direct proportion to the temperature, when they get hot they expand, when they get cold they contract. As steel and bamboo-plastic composite do not share the same coefficients of linear thermal expansion, bamboo-plastic composite expands and contracts more so than steel. As a result expansion and contraction can cause Eva-Last boards to shift, shrinking and stretching the hole around the screw. This causes damage to the hole and the board. In order to avoid this damage, drill holes where the bamboo-plastic composite meets the steel. The hole in the composite should be drilled slightly larger than that of the steel to accommodate for the expansion and contraction. The temperature at time of installation should also be considered. Table 6: Expansion 5,8 metre profile (with expansion at 3 mm/lm) 5,8 x 3 = 17,4 mm expansion 8,7 mm gap 8,7 mm gap 17,4 mm / 2 = 8,7 mm (on each side) 5,8 metre profile 5,8 metre profile Eva-Last clips can control expansion: Halo clip Single sided locking clip Double sided locking clip 25.

27 How to use Eva-Last clips to control expansion: Halo clip The Halo clip has no teeth and allows boards to move freely as they expand and contract. Board moves freely Board moves freely Board moves freely Single sided locking clip A single sided locking clip is designed to be used where boards are laid in a staggered pattern. The use of it is to allow some boards to continue to move, while others remained locked. *not used in a straight board laying pattern. Locked Board moves freely Locked Double sided locking clip The double sided locking clip is used to lock on both sides of the clip into place. If not positioned properly the expansion and contraction of the boards may cause damage to the groove. Locked Locked on both sides. Locked 1. Straight board laying pattern clip position example Expansion of profiles in one direction, profiles being secured on one end. First board Sufficient gap must be left for expansion Last board 26.

28 2. Alternate straight board laying pattern clip position example. Expansion of profiles in two directions, profiles being secured in the middle. First board Sufficient gap must be left for expansion Last board 3. Staggered board laying pattern clip position example. Expansion of profiles in one directions, profiles secured in the middle. First board on the next line Next board Next board on next line First board Sufficient gap must be left for expansion Last board 21. Installation: Laying the deck Important! Please make sure that before you begin construction, you are aware of all building requirements, codes and restrictions. If you have any questions or uncertainties, please contact Eva-Last before beginning your installation. Always wear safety equipment. Make sure you pre-drill holes and ensure all screws are secure but not over tightened during installation. This will help prevent pressure cracks. Place Eva-Last profiles on the decking site 72 hours before installation to allow acclimation to environment. Avoid pre-cutting Eva-Last planks, as not every construction wall is straight. Pre drill holes in boards slightly bigger than the screw. There should always be gaps in the installation for drainage, ventilation, air flow, and organic to move through. The more ventilation provided underneath the deck, the better. Don t close the sides and make sure there is air to move in all directions. This also allows moisture to evaporate, ensuring your deck has the longest life possible. 27.

29 The first board is key in the laying process! If it is a fixed deck, place the first plank flush with the rim joist - make sure it is square or parallel with existing structure or with your frame. Make sure your starting profile is laid perfectly straight, as all subsequent planks will follow its line. Make sure by measuring edges and diagonals. Top fix the board to the rim joist with the preferred overhang. Depending on the design, you can have bigger overhang, but remember you cannot ever overhang by more than 50 mm. Aesthetically, it often looks better when you overhang about 10 mm-15 mm over the fascia. A starting clip can be used when you end flush with the pine and there is no overhang. Fixing your first profile can be done in 2 ways: 1. Using starter clips - recommended when installing profiles 3 m and longer, as this will allow the boards to slide freely when expanding & contracting. (No overhang) 2. Top fixing with HULK composite decking screw - profiles 3 m long or less, for expansion & contraction rea sons. (With overhang) Lay planks perpendicular to joists or at preferred angle. Attach subsequent profiles to joists with decking Halo clip. Pre-load clips with HULK screw. Hold clip over joist and tighten to 75% to hold the boards in place. Move the next profile into position then sufficiently tighten clips. Do not over tighten as this may deform the clip. Continue to next board. If you are pre-loading clips, try to have someone assist you in placing the clips in position on each board. Install a clip on every joist and fasten with HULK screw. You cannot miss one! Push the next board into place, do not force or push too hard. The clips will keep a gap naturally if installed correctly. If you over tighten, the clip will deform and increase the gap. When fastening with a screw, don t over tighten either. It is always a good idea to use a cordless drill with a clutch. Set the clutch relatively light to ensure you don t over tighten. Fix last/end profile with the starter profile or top fix as shown below. Please remember to always pre-drill holes and counter sink to avoid cracking. Top fixing screws should be no closer than 30 mm from the edge of the profile. Important! All butt joints must have a double joist. Install a second support joist as shown for proper attachment of the hidden clip. Double joist & double clip 28.

30 Locking clips must be used on butt joins. Once the support joist is in place, the clips can be secured next to one another. Decking clips fit easily, do not force them into deck board grooves they need to be able to expand and contract. Use a clip and screw on every joist. Boards must not ever share clips or joist! Screw clip into joist, taking care that the screw goes down straight and into the centre of the joist. Screws must go in at 90 degrees so as not to damage the next board coming it. Remember to leave a maximum of 50 mm overhang of Eva-Last profiles from substructure joists. Important! Always make sure you are working with the correct joist spacing for your profile. Please refer to Table 2: Joist spacing for the correct spacing for your profile and application. Tips: Deck build & detail - Always use sharp blades. - Check your mitre saw, against a steel square at the beginning of each day. - If you are working between set lines, check that they are parallel. This will help with wastage and help disguise lines that are not straight. - Use a one or two board perimeter around a deck and then lay the boards perpendicularly inside. Make sure there is an area for water and leaves to fall through. - Think about giving a deck an overhang, rather than a trim. - Always crossover. Use the length of the profiles in the direction of the shorter side of the deck. - Build in boxes. Building a border of two profiles around each profile length area will prevent profiles impacting each other head to toe and will control expansion. - If you want to keep your gaps perfectly in line, use the HULK locking clip where you are making your joins. Top fix a single screw through the centre of each profile. This way thermal expansion will be equal in all directions and profiles will not move over time. Installing first & second profile 29.

31 Tips: Pre-drilling/fixing - Locking clips help prevent boards from moving around - Don t fix more than 30 mm from the edge (critical edge) - When pre-drilling holes, drill holes that are slightly bigger than the screws - Cut the boards shorter fit them in thirds. This will assist the screws and stop them from cracking. - Top fix to the same specs as the joist using 2 screws. - Top fix on every joist. - Top fixing helps control expansion and contraction as the force of the fasteners exceeds the force of expansion and contraction. Tips: Fascias - Eva-Last fascia boards should be screwed to the frame (end joist or rim joist) and not to the decking boards. - Use two screws fixed rigidly every 300 mm along the profile, and no more than 40 mm from the start/finish edge. - Allow a ventilation gap of 40 mm between the bottom of the fascia board and the ground. - Be cautious with fascias, especially with high decks sometimes rather use frames with a weave. - Fascias should sit underneath the deck boards. - Depending on the application, think about rather using overhang vs. fascias or trims. 22. Installing deck boards as stairs It is very common for decks to incorporate steps or even flights of stairs. Depending on the look you are trying to achieve, it is also quite common to continue your stairs in the same material as the deck. As a result, a combination of our fascia boards and deck boards are often used. The tread of the board is usually 2 x the height of the riser and we design most of our stairs with this in mind, where we place 2 boards as the tread and 1 fascia board as the riser. It is recommended that as these are usually smaller pieces of board and stairs usually see a lot of traffic than the rest of the deck that locking clips be used in the centre grooves. While starter clips or top fixing screws be used on the outside grooves. (Please keep in mind that starter clips are not always possible and may get in the way of the fascia boards.) 30.

32 23. Installing deck boards at an angle Eva-Last has a particular recommendation for every board s joist spacing. Please see Table 2: Joist spacing. This is recommended with the understanding that the Eva-Last boards will be installed perpendicular to the joists. When installing the boards at an angle the joist spacing needs to shift to accommodate this as the lengths differ quite substantially from the normal 90 angle. The larger the degree, the larger the gap between the joists becomes. The solution to this is simple however. Reduce the gap in the joists so that the boards are properly supported. 24. After installation Do not burn the left over composite material. Dispose of it correctly or contact Eva-Last for assistance. Small scratches, minor spills and stains on your deck can be dealt with either by cleaning or by lightly sanding with coarse grid sand paper. You should not let mulch build up on your deck. A deck should be cleaned with a high pressure hose monthly (even in winter). Important! Do not sand Infinity boards. You may want to think about adding furniture and/or planter boxes to help complete the look of your deck and add the finishing touches. This can greatly improve the aesthetic appeal and comfort of the space. You could even build your own with the off cuts from the deck. 31.