IThas been well established that when all-cotton

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1 ndian Jurnal f Tetile Research Vl. 1, December 1976, pp Predictin f Mechanical Prperties f Resin Finished Fabrics G. M. VENKATESH, N. E. DWELTZ, J. R. MODY, K. C. GUPTA & H. U. MEHTA Ahmedabad Tetile ndustry's Research Assciatin, Ahmedabad Received 10 May 1976; accepted 19 Octber 1976 When cttn fabrics are resin finished t impart desirable wash and wear prperties, there is a significant reductin in their wear life. n a recent study [Dwelt, N. E. & Mehta, H. u., Clurage, (1971), 78] it was shwn that the relatinships that eist between the percentage resin padded n the fabric n the ne hand, and the percentage lss in abrasin resistance, tensile strength r the imprvement in dry crease recvery n the ther, r ther varius interrelatinships which eist between the lsses in abrasin resistance and tensile strength n the ne hand and the imprvement in DCR n the ther, culd be used t evaluate varius resin finishing prcesses as well as the perfrmance f varius additives in the resin bath. The study has been etended t include different resins, catalysts, cnditins f drying and curing, varius resin finishing prcesses as well as fabric weaves. The data shw that very clear-cut predictins are pssible fr a given fabric under a given set f resin finishing cnditins. Thas been well established that when all-cttn fabrics are mdified chemically t impart durable press prperties, they suffer cnsiderable lsses in tensile and tear strength as well as abrasin resistance. T develp new chemical prcesses which will vercme these limitatins, a better understanding f the mechanism f crsslinking and a knwledge f the interrelatinships amng the varius parameters invlved in the prcess is necessary. Several studies have been carried ut t establish definite interrelatinships'p. n a recent study in this labratry", it was shwn that definite relatinships eist between the amunt f resin padded n the fabric and the crrespnding lsses in tensile and tear strength r abrasin resistance, as well as imprvement in dry crease recvery. Frm the empirical equatins, ne can predict the abrasin r tensile lss r the imprvement in crease recvery fr any particular level, r frm the interrelatinships between lsses in abrasin resistance and tensile strength and imprvement in crease recvery, unknwn parameters can be predicted. Further, the "prcess" and "weave" factrs which characterie the type f resin finishing prcess emplyed and the weave f the fabric respectively can be evaluated", The present cmmunicatin presents the results f wrk that has been carried ut subsequently t determine the influence f different resins, catalysts, drying and curing cnditins, and resin finishing prcesses, as als the actin f sfteners n these relatinships. Eperimental Prcedure Hundred per cent bleached cttn pplin (40 s] 40 s, 12962) and cating (22 s24 s, 9246) fabrics, withut any starch finish, were selected fr crsslinking treatments. Resin Finishing Prcedures fr crsslinking cttn fabrics using the pad-dry-cure and tw-step plyset prcess are available in literatures». Fabrics were als treated using a single bath plyset prcess develped in this labratry". The all-cttn fabrics used were given an initial treatment with 2-3 glitre acetic acid. The fabrics were padded with the resin and squeeed n a padding mangle t have a final wet pick-up f 75 %. (i) Pad-dry-cure - Mnmethyll frmaldehyde (MF), dimethyll ethylene urea (DMEU) and dimethyll dihydryethylene urea (DMDHEU) were emplyed fr crsslinking. Different catalysts, such as MgC 2.6H 2 0, an rganic acid, mied catalysts cntaining magnesium chlride and a full r partial salt f an rganic acid (ndian Patent ) were emplyed, depending n the curing cnditins, and their cncentratin in the resin bath was suitably adjusted fr ensuring ptimum efficiency. n sme cases, the resin bath als cntained 4 % f a sftening agent. The padded fabrics were dried at loo C r 120 C in pen width n a stenter and cured at e fr 4 min, r 125 e fr 10 min, r at 110 C fr 5 min, depending upn the type f catalyst used. (ii) Plyset-cure (tw-step) - The fabric was padded with a slutin f melamine frmaldehyde cntaining 50 glitre inc acetate and 40 glitre plyethylene sftener, dried at 120 C fr min and cured at 150 C fr 5 min. After washing and drying, the fabric was padded with DMDHEU (different cncentratins t btain a range f resin add-n) and MgC 2.6H 2 0. The fabric was dried at 120 C fr min and cured at 150 C fr 4 min. (iii) Single-step plyset-cure - The single-step prcess has been described elsewhere". DMDHEU, a sftening agent, and a mied catalyst, were used. The dried fabrics were cured at 150 C fr 2 min. After the final treatment, the resin treated fabrics were given the usual prcess wash and dried. Test Methds The mechanical prperties f the treated fabrics were determined in a labratry cnditined at 27 e 135

2 NDAN J. TEXT. RES., VOL. 1, DECEMBER 1976 and 65 % RH, using standard methds". The crease recvery angles (dry and wet) were measured using a Mnsant recvery tester", Results and Discussin Withut any sftener in the resin bath - The plts f percentage resin padded (R) n the fabric against (i) the imprvement in dry crease recvery angle, ). CR (W.!.- F), (ii) the percentage tensile lss (W + F), (iii) the percentage lss in tear strength (W+F), and (iv) the percentage abrasin lss (W+F) are presented in Figs. \-4. t is seen that the relatinships are curvilinear and an equatin f the Arrhenius type, L = Be-AR, is fund t satisfy the eperimental data in each case ver the entire range. Here L is ). CR, r the percentage tensile lss, r tear lss r abrasin lss; R, the percentage padded resin, while A and B are cnstants, their values being different fr different curves. The same curve is fund t be satisfied under all curing cnditins fr the same resin. Cnstants A and B are fund t be different fr MF, DMEU and DMDHEU resin. When lg L is pltted against 1R, linear relatinships are btained in each case. The relatinship between y, the percentage abrasin lss (W+F) and, the!:::.cr (W+F) is seen t be A A. MF DMEU OMDHEU RESN PADDED, % Fig. 1 - Plt f Resin Padded (R) versus t::,. CR (W+F) Fig. 2 - sl t. 1l V 9 30 ljj -J 20 w -- Plt ;e ::: EU J, pmohu 2 t. 6 B 10 RESN PAOOED % f Resin Padded (R) versus Tensile Lss linear (Fig. 5). The equatin y=o has been fund t fit the eperimental data fr all the three resins under different curing cnditins with a high degree f crrelatin (r=0.97). The percentage abrasin lss (W + F) is als linearly related t the percentage tensile lss (W +F) (Fig. 6). The equatin y= with a crrelatin f 0.96 has been btained after regressin analysis. The relatinship between the lsses in tensile strength and the imprvement in dry crease recvery (DCR) is shwn in Fig. 7. lco: 60 V. 1l 9 60 "., <( r 'J) <{ AA& MF OMEU. OM DHEUj,_ 2 L RESN PADDED, 010 Fig Plt f Resin Padded (R) versus Abrasin Lss (W+F) 60 ' ! t 50 ii!.! ;i '0; 9 y. i ':i )O 2l;: AA. MF 10,....X" OMDHEU 0.l--1EU _.L'_-' l L. G 8 10 RESN PADDED, ". Fig. 4 - Plt f Resin Padded (R) versus Lss in Tear Strength 80 f) f) S 60 ;:;. r ) ' t. DCR. des Fig. 5 - Plt f Abrasin Lss versus mprvement in DCR 136

3 VENKATESH et at. : PREDCTON OF MECHANCAL PROPERTES OF RESN FNSHED FABRCS 80 Vl Vl 9 60 in.0 Q: m ' LOSS, % "' MF 0( DMEU DMOHEU Fig. 6 - Plt f Abrasin Lss versus Tensile Lss -:---.-,. (,,;' BOr. V. S r:rr 20-,i all UA.MF OMEU DMDHEU --2,..lb--,.L'--sO-80 TEAR A. loss, Fig. 8 - Plt f Abrasin Lss versus Lss in Tear Strength c SO l...0 tl --. tl g Ẉ...J w MF DMEU OMDHEU ')" DCR,cleg Fig. 7 - Plt f Lss in Tensile Strength versus e:"cr (W+F) The distributin f the data in Fig. 7 suggests a linear relatinship and, in fact, regressin analysis has shwn that the equatin y = fits the data fr all the resins under all curing cnditins with a crrelatin cefficient f Linear relatinships als eist between (i) the percentage abrasin lss (W + F) and the percentage lss in tear strength, and (ii) between the percentage tear lss (W+F) and 6CR, with a high degree f crrelatin (Figs. 8 and 9). n each f these cases, a single relatinship f the type y = m -+- c is fund t fit the data fr ai the resins under all curing cnditins. The trends fr bth light pplin and heavy cating are very similar and a single eperimental curve representing bth the fabrics can be drawn in each case. Hence, the data fr cating fabric are nt shwn separately in Figs Similar cnclusins have been drawn frm ur earlier studies". With sftener in the resin bath- Frm the results btained s far, the imprvements in crease recvery r the lsses in tensile and tear strength as well as abrasin resistance fr a given resin can be predicted fairly accurately. Hwever, the additin f a sftener in the resin bath may mdify the relatinships between the percentage padded resin and the varius mechanical prperties as well as the interrelatinships between the varius mechanical prperties themselves. The etent f mdificatin is likely t depend n (i) the type f resin, (ii) the type f fabric, (iii) the 60 SO a a 40 ijot w 2 1 a & A MF 10 OMEU OMOHEU -'---!-- a 10 c ll,o A OCR, dsg Fig. 9 - mprvement in DCR versus Tear Strength Lss type f resin finishing prcess emplyed, (iv) the type f sftener. and (v) the resin add-n. The imprvements in crease recvery as well as the cncmitant tensile, tear and abrasin lsses fr pplin and cating fabrics resin treated by the paddry-cure and ne- and tw-step plyset prcesses, with plyethylene sftener in the resin hath, are pltted as a functin f percentage resin padded in Figs , The brken curves in these figures are the regressin curves shwn in Figs. 1-4 fr the pplin fabrics treated with DMDHEU withut any sftener in the resin bath. t is seen frm Fig. 10 that pplin fabrics treated by different prcesses ehibit slightly different dry crease recvery angles. The fabrics treated by the tw-step prcess shw higher crease recvery angles at all resin levels, while the pad-dry-cure samples shw minimum imprvements in crease recvery, The cating fabrics treated by different prcesses behave similarly, ecept that the imprvements in crease recvery are less at all resin levels cmpared t thse f the pplin fabrics. Treated pplin and cating fabrics shw different tensile behaviur at all padded resin levels. The fabrics treated by the tw-step prcess which have shwn maimum imprvements in crease recvery are the nes shwing higher tensile lsses. 137

4 NDAN J. TEXT. RES., VOL. 1, DECEMBER 1976 '40' : :rlt'.""11 E. 80 <l ' C " C,',..,-,-.- ' l Pplin, pdc Pplin, "Slep,. Pplin.2-<;!t'? 0 q 0 Ctin'.l. pde f- 2-l--:6l----f;8--';1O -' Rt:SN PADOEO, 1. Fig Plt f Resin Padded versus f::, CR fr Fabrics Treated with Sftener in the Resin Bath (The dashed curve is the regressin curve shwn in Fig. 1) t ,-,-, l-'plin, pdc Pplin, l-step 6 Pplin, 2-$tep 00 0 Cting, pdc T.!.-_L-_ 2, 6 e ;0 RESN PADDED, % Fig Plt f Resin Padded versus Tensile Lss fr Fabrics Resin Treated with Sftener in the Resin Bath (The dashed curve is the regressin curve shwn in Fig. 2) The effect f the sftener n the surface prperties f cating and pplin fabrics is quite significant (Figs. 12 and 13). The etent f sftening r lubricatin decreases rapidly as the resin cntent increases. At very lw add-ens, pplin fabrics ehibit higher abrasin resistance than the untreated cntrl sample. The etent f mdificatin is different fr each f the three prcesses (Fig. 12). Hwever, at very high resin levels, the sftener has practically n effect n the lsses in abrasin resistance. Fabrics treated by the ne-step plyset prcess cnsistently shw lwer abrasin lsses at cmparable resin levels. The cating fabrics ehibit a similar behaviur. Hwever, the effect f sftener n the abrasin resistance in the case f cating fabrics treated by any prcess.. - '" " 0 X"K Pl)p.;n.p,- n. 1- :;!-r,., A r,!ti"l.2-t.' u 0 a COO!;"'.:. p 2 4 G a ; RESN PADDEO, ', Fig Plt f Resin Padded versus Abrasin Lss (The dashed curve is the regressin curve shwn in Fig. 3) Fig, 5CL.! i l.ol l U t- 10, 0 -- Pptm.p d c Pplin. t -Sttp A Pplin, 2-Step c Cctlrlg,pcc -:O---:' :---.-L--J-' id RESN PADDED," 13 - Plt f Resin Padded versus Tear Lss (The dashed curve is the regressin curve shwn in Fig. 4) is much less. A similar trend is bserved in the relatinship between the tear lss and the percentage resin padded (Fig. 13). Further, it is seen that pplin fabrics treated by all the three prcesses shw lwer tear lss at any resin cntent than thse where n sftener is used. The interrelatinships amng the varius mechanical prperties fr cating and pplin fabrics are shwn in Figs The brken lines are the regressin lines shwn in Figs, 5-9, when n sftener is emplyed. The additin f sftener des nt influence the relatinship between the percentage abrasin lss and b. CR in the case f cating t any appreciable etent. On the ther hand, at lw resin levels, pplin fabric ehibits much higher abrasin resistance than culd be predicted frm the equatin btained earlier (Fig. 14). A similar cnclusin can be drawn with regard t the influence f the sftener n the abrasin lss versus tensile lss relatinship (Fig. 15). The relatinship between the percentage tensile lss and the imprvement in dry crease recvery 138

5 VENKATESH et al. : PREDCTON OF MECHANCAL PROPERTES OF RESN FNSHED FABRCS Fig. -w[ " w -1.0 Z i3-20 Vi 0 a: (D sl -6el O:-t;J, l.lj l: Z g -20 1t HO +60- Pplin, pde Pplin. l-stp.ba Pplin. 2-Sttp Cating. pde 000Ctlng.l-StlP AAA Cctmq, 2- Step L in t. OCR, des Fig Plt f Abrasin Lss versus!:::,.cr fr Fabrics Resin Treated with Sftener in the Resin Bath (The dashed line is the regressin line shwn in Fig. 5) is shwn in Fig. 16. The relatinship is linear and bth cating and pplin fabrics treated by all the three prcesses behave similarly. The linear equatin btained earlier, with minr mdificatins, fits the eperimental data satisfactrily. The abrasin lsses f resin treated cating and pplin fabrics with the sftener in the resin bath are curvilinearly related t lsses in tear strength (Fig. 17). At lw add-ns, the effect f the sftener :1.0 - U'l --' w 30 -' 20L. ' 'i., Y.;, X A li 0. cw " A" " A. s X...' ' Pplin. pde h. Pcplin. -Step >. >. Pplin.2-Step 10 Cating. pde vii 000 Cating. l-step A 6. A Ctlng.2-Step BO MPROVEMENT N OCR (W+Fl Fig Plt f Lss in Tensile Strength versus 6.CR (The dashed line is the regressin line shwn in Fig. 7) r- " -t.orw l:> -20 u Z 0 0 Vi a: (D r TEAR loss J v, l( Pplin, pde 0 Pplin. l-step Pcplin. 2-Step Cting. pdc 00t1 Cating. -Step A A A Cting,2-5tep Fig Plt f Abrasin Lss versus Tear Lss (The dashed line is the regressin line shwn in Fig. 8) is maimum in the case f pplin fabrics, and the treated fabrics shw higher abrasin resistance as well as higher tear strength than the untreated cntrl samples. The effect f the sftener n the tear strength- D. CR relatinship is shwn in Fig. 18. The changes in the prperties f cating fabric are such that the regressin equatin btained fr the resin treated fabrics withut the sftener hlds gd with nly minr mdificatin. n the case f pplin, the additin f the sftener requires a separate regressin equatin t eplain the data. This relatinship is als linear with a high crrelatin cefficient. A cmparisn f the mechanical prperties f cating and pplin fabrics resin treated by different prcesses suggests that the fabrics treated by all the 139

6 NDAN J. TEXT. RES., VOL. 1, DECEMBER J J...O 9 30 c: ; 'Q a lt.r Pplin.;>d, Pplin. l r St ep A AA. Pplin. 2-Stcp Or Cling, pdc 000Cling.l Step AAA COOling. 2-Step -.,O-)--Z-6'::0--8:'-:O::-----:-' '---'1..J..-:-Q...J 6 OCR,des Fig Plt f Tear Lss versus l:!,. CR (The dashed line is the regressin line shwn in Fig. 9) three prcesses ehibit mre r less the same lsses in tensile strength, and marginally different lsses in tear strength and abrasin resistance at cmparable crease recvery levels. Further, the relatinship between the tensile lss and the crease recvery is linear, irrespective f the type f finishing prcess emplyed, the fabric cnstructin and the type f sftener used. As a result, the equatin btained earlier can be emplyed t predict the lsses in tensile strength fr a given fabric resin treated by any prcess frm a knwledge f its dry crease recvery angles. On the ther hand, the relatinship between the surface prperties (tear strength and abrasin resistance) and the crease recvery, especially that between the abrasin lss and DCR, is nt generally linear. The incrpratin f sfteners in the resin bath results in less lsses in abrasin resistance and tear strength than when n sftener is emplyed in resin finishing, and the etent f reductin in lsses in tear strength and abrasin resistance depends n the type f sftener emplyed and, t sme etent, n fabric cnstructin. Hence, the equatin btained earlier can be emplyed nly t predict the maimum lsses in abrasin resistance and tear strength n accunt f crsslin king. Data n the mechanical prperties f pplin fabrics resin treated by the cnventinal pad-dry-cure technique and different minimum applicatin techniques, such as pad-hydretract-dry-cure, padsqueee-re-squee-dry-cure and the mild cure techniques (Mehta, H. U., Shah, G. B., Brtalavwala, V. B., Venkatesh, G. M. & Dwelt, N. E. unpublished data) are given in Table, alng with the calculated lsses in abrasin resistance and tear and tensile TABLE - PREDCTED AND EXPERMENTALLy DETERMNBD MECHANCAL PROPERTES Sample l:!,.dcr Tensile (W+F)O lss, % Pad-dry-cure Pad-day-cure, 42 minimum 98 applicatin \02 technique Mild cure, HC 121 catalyst Mild cure, H 3 PO. 62 catalyst Abrasin Tear lss, % lss, Ep. Calc. Ep, Calc. Ep. Calc strength. t is evident frm the data presented in Table 1 that the agreement between the calculated and eperimentally determined lsses is quite satisfactry. Thus, it appears pssible t evaluate new prcesses by preparing standard curves f (i) abrasin lsses versus dry crease recvery, and (i i) tensile lsses versus dry crease recvery fr fabrics resin treated emplying the pad-dry-cure prcess withut any sftener in the resin bath. Then determinatin f just tw parameters, namely crease recvery and abrasin lss, is sufficient t assess the perfrmance f the treated fabrics. Acknwledgement The authrs epress their sincere thanks t Dr P. C. Mehta, Directr, ATRA fr his keen interest and useful suggestins during the curse f this wrk. References 1. WEGMANN. H. D., SCOTT, M. G. & REBNFELD, L., Tet. Res. J. 39 (1969), DWELTZ, N. E. & MEHTA, H. U., Clurage (Annual ssue) (1971), TOVEY, H., Tet. Res. J. 31 (1961), REEVES, W. A., HAMALANEN, C., ST. MARD, H. H. & COOPER,A. S., (Jr), Tet. Res. J. 37 (1967), MEHTA, H. U. & GUPTA, K. C., Tet. Res. J., 46 (1976) American Sciety fr Testing Materials. ASTM Designatins (a) D , (b) D T, (c) 117S-64T and D295-6OT. 140

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