Introduction: Thank you for registering for our Do It Yourself asphalt sealcoating ebook.

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2 Introduction: Dear friend, Thank you for registering for our Do It Yourself asphalt sealcoating ebook. Sealcoating an asphalt driveway can be very hard and dirty work, especially if the surface of the asphalt is rough and rocky there are lots of cracks and/or patching to perform. But in the end, it s well worth the effort saving hundreds if not over a thousand dollars. I ve been in the driveway business for over 12 years now and it still amazes me just how many people are all about their driveways! There are a large number of us out there who understand the value of a beautiful entrance to our home and want to keep it looking good as long as possible. The other side of the coin is the desire to squeeze as much life out of our asphalt driveway as possible. And justifiably so! Removing and replacing an asphalt driveway can be fairly expensive so keeping it sealed up and maintained will extend the life dramatically. I hope I ve done my job well enough in this ebook so you can feel confident you can do it yourself and get as good if not better results than if you hired a professional! My desire is to see you save lots of money and extend the life of your driveway by years! Thank you! Sincerely, Patrick Mattingley 2

3 Table of Contents: Chapter One: Estimating Materials Getting Started.4 Estimating Patching.5 Estimating Cracks 7 Choosing A Crack Sealer.9 Estimating Backer 12 Choosing A Backer..13 Estimating Black Sand.16 Estimating Asphalt Sealer 17 Choosing An Asphalt Sealer 21 Tools & Preparation Materials List..23 Materials Worksheet.. Chapter Two: Cleaning & Preparation Getting Started.26 Making Patch Repairs..27 Preparing Cracks..33 Alligatored Areas.35 Installing Backer Rod...36 Installing Sand Backer..38 Preparing Oil Spots...40 Cleaning & Preparing The Asphalt Surface.41 Chapter Three: Crack Sealing Getting Started..46 Sealing Field Cracks.47 Sealing Transitional Cracks..51 Chapter Four: Sealing The Asphalt Getting Started..53 Edging...54 Sealing the Field: 1 Step 2 Coat Method..58 Sealing the Field: 2 Step 2 Coat Method..63 3

4 Estimating: Getting Started Determining the quantity of materials and gathering all of the appropriate tools will save time and money and make the job run smoothly. In this chapter we're going to go through each step on how to estimate the quantity of materials and what tools will be needed to prepare and seal the asphalt. What we're going to learn in this chapter: How to estimate the quantity of crack sealing material Choosing a crack sealer How to estimate the quantity of backer needed for deep cracks Choosing a backer How to estimate the quantity of cold patch asphalt material How to estimate the quantity of sealer... Choosing asphalt sealer A list of all the tools and preparation materials needed to perform the work. A pen and notepad... Measuring tape or measuring wheel A calculator The tools needed for estimating: 4

5 Estimating Patching When making patch repairs, we need to determine the total square feet of the area or areas needing patch repairs. Square up each failed area visually. Determine the thickness of the existing asphalt. Multiply the length by the width for each area. Add the total square feet together. 1 bag of cold asphalt patch material will fill: 5 square feet at 1.0" depth 2.5 square feet at 2.0" depth 1.67 square feet at 3.0 depth 1.25 square feet at 4.0 depth Example: Existing thickness = Total Sq Ft of area needing patching = 8.68 Bags Round the number of bags needed up to 9 bags. 5

6 Notes: We recommend rounding up the final numbers to be sure there's enough material to finish the job. It's better to have too much material than not enough and have to stop in the middle of the repair and run back to the hardware store to purchase additional bags. Additional Notes: When it comes to making patch repairs, we always recommend hiring a professional to patch large failed areas or a large number of failed areas in the driveway rather than using DIY cold patch. A professional contractor will make a patch repair look much better visually and since they use hot asphalt mix, it will last much longer and be much more durable than by doing it ourselves with cold patch. However, a small patch professionally done can easily cost several hundred dollars for a very small area so if budget is a factor then obviously using cold patch is an excellent alternative. On rare occasions can a cold patch be installed as a permanent repair. In most cases the best way to view a cold patch is that it may be a temporary fix until that area can be repaired by a professional. 6

7 Estimating Cracks To determine the amount of crack sealing material that will be needed to seal all of the cracks in the asphalt, measure the length of all cracks that are 1/4" or wider. Crack sealing material will not flow down into cracks that are less than 1/4 well enough to seal them up. Cracks that are smaller than 1/4" will be sealed with the asphalt sealer as it s applied to the surface. Use a tape measure or a measuring wheel and measure the length of all cracks keeping a running total of each width 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1. Add together the running total of each width of crack. ¼ = ½ = ¾ = 1 = One gallon of cold pour crack sealer will seal approximately 30 linear feet of crack, 1" deep and 1/2" wide. For ¼ wide cracks divide the linear feet by 60 For ½ wide cracks divide the linear feet by 30. For ¾ wide cracks divide the linear feet by 20. For 1 wide cracks divide the linear feet by 15. Ttl Ln Ft 60 = Ttl Ln Ft 30 = Ttl Ln Ft 20 = Ttl Ln Ft 15 = Ttl = 7

8 Add the totals together for the approximate total gallons needed to seal all of the cracks in the driveway. Do it yourself cold pour crack sealer can be purchased in 1 gallon containers and 5 gallon buckets. Notes: We recommend rounding up the final numbers to be sure there's enough material to finish the job. It's better to have too much material than not enough! 8

9 Estimating: Choosing Crack Sealer There are many different types and brands of do it yourself crack sealer that can be purchased at just about any local hardware store and can be found in either an asphalt caulking or a cold pour rubberized sealer. However, these products are quite inferior to something a commercial asphalt sealer manufacturer will carry. The first, an asphalt caulking material can be found at any major building supply or hardware store. While it is better than nothing at all, we still highly recommend using a professional grade crack sealer. It can be difficult to squeeze the material out of the tube using a caulking gun and if there s a large amount of cracks in the asphalt it may be extremely time consuming and extremely hard work. The sealing properties are not very impressive. It doesn't bond to the asphalt very well and doesn t allow for creating a water tight band. (We cover in great detail what a water tight band is and how to create one when crack sealing in Chapter 3: Crack Sealing "sealing field cracks". (Page 47) Long term, this material tends to dry somewhat hard and doesn't flex with the asphalt as it expands and contracts. We've pulled out thousands of feet of this type of sealant out of our customer s asphalt over the years and it s not something we would recommend for a good crack sealing job. The cost for one tube is app $3 and the coverage rate is approximately 30 linear feet of a 1/4" bead. When you compare it to a professional product like the one s used by professionals it's simply just not a high quality product. The next product is an over the counter cold pour crack sealer. 9

10 Over the years we've tried various could pour products and nothing has been exceptionally impressive. This material does seep down into the crack and it does bond to the asphalt much better than the caulking material we just covered however, long term some of them tend to dry a bit hard and not flex with the asphalt as it expands and contracts. The average cost for these hardware store and building supply cold pour crack sealers is app $9 to $10 per gallon. The maximum width of crack they can seal varies from 1/4 to 3/4. These over the counter cold pour crack sealers are better than not sealing the cracks at all but they're far inferior to the crack sealing materials used by professionals. 10

11 The product we use is also a pourable crack sealer that comes in one gallon containers and even 5 gallon pails. It's similar to the over the counter pourable crack sealer, it pours down into the crack and bonds to the asphalt extremely well, it allows for the ability to create that water tight band we cover in the Chapter 3 (Page 47), but it's long term properties are second to none. It s rubberized so it remains flexible allowing it to move with the crack as it expands and contracts. The cost is approximately $18 per gallon and the coverage rate is approximately 30 linear feet of 1/2" wide cracks. It's is also limited to up to 3/4" wide cracks. It's the best do it yourself crack sealer on the market and is highly recommended by professionals. If you'd like to purchase the same crack sealing material we recommend and use on our customers driveways, visit our do it yourself training center at: ers.html to learn more! 11

12 Estimating: Estimating Backer If the cracks are deep and there s no visible bottom to them, then a backer will need to be installed in order to seal them up properly. There are two types of backer, backer rod or play sand. We go into great detail the difference between the two in the chapter 2 Cleaning & Preparation: Choosing a Backer (Page 13). Be sure and review that chapter to determine which backer you'd prefer to use. If backer rod is being installed, the proper diameter as well as the length will need to be purchased. Backer rod comes in several different diameters. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and larger, and can generally be found in 20' rolls. To determine how many rolls will be needed, take the total linear feet of each width of crack and divide that number by 20. This will give us the amount of rolls we'll need of each diameter. When purchasing backer rod, be sure to purchase "closed cell" backer rod which is moisture resistant and is for outdoor use. Also, be sure to purchase a diameter of backer rod that's slightly wider than the cracks for the best performance. If sand is being installed as a backer, which we prefer over backer rod there's no exact method to determine the amount of sand needed since the depth of the cracks is unknown. As a rough estimate, purchase approximately one bag for each 100 linear feet of cracks that need to be filled. Unfortunately, there may be quite a bit of sand left over or you may have to go back to the hardware store to purchase more. Notes: We recommend rounding up your final numbers to make sure there's enough material to finish the job. It's better to have too much material than not enough!! 12

13 Estimating: Choosing A Backer For Deep Cracks Some cracks can be deceiving. They appear to be only a couple of inches deep but may run much deeper. When a crack forms in the asphalt is as the crack opens up and large amounts of water can then enter the crack and carries the sub-grade or soil with it which creates large voids beneath the asphalt. If cracks that run deep are sealed without a backer, the crack sealing material will continue to seep into the crack and not seal the crack properly. Some cracks can continue 13

14 for quite a distance. To save money from wasted crack sealing material, add a backer to cracks that are more than 1 deep especially if they appear to have no bottom. There are two types of backing material that can be installed. Backer Rod or Play Sand. Either of these can be purchased at any local hardware store. Backer rod is a soft, pliable foam material that can be pushed down into the crack. This will stop the crack sealing material from flowing down into the crack and filling in the voided areas, wasting material. This will seal the crack much better and uses much less material. 14

15 Play sand can also be used as a backer which is what most professionals will use. It creates an all around much better seal. It s faster and it's much easier to insert into the crack than backer rod. Play sand will flow down into cracks much like water and can fill a portion of the voided areas. It won t fill in the entire voided area but it will fill in the area directly beneath the crack itself. Play sand is similar in concept as backer rod, helping to save on wasted crack sealing material as well as creating a much better seal. 15

16 Estimating: Black Sand If you re planning on sealing the cracks in your asphalt driveway on one day and applying the asphalt sealer on another day or weekend, we recommend sprinkling black sand onto the crack sealing material after they've been sealed to keep the material from sticking to shoes, car tires and bike tires. Generally speaking, 1 gallon of black sand should cover approximately 100 linear feet of cracks. If you live in an area where black sand is not readily available, visit our do it yourself center at: ers.html There you can purchase any number of gallons of black sand along with many other hard to find products. Notes: As a final note, we recommend rounding up your final numbers to make sure there's enough material to finish the job. It's better to have too much material than not enough!! 16

17 Estimating: Asphalt Sealer Determining the amount of asphalt sealer needed to seal your driveway is pretty simple. Some driveways are simple squares or rectangles where all we need to do is multiply the length x the width for the total square feet. 17

18 Some driveways can be long and winding and have all kinds of odd shaped areas. In this case, break the driveway down into squares, rectangles and triangles like in the illustration above. Measure each area with a measuring wheel or a tape measure. Multiply the length times the width for each area. For triangles, multiply the length by the width. Then divide the total by 2. 18

19 Once you ve determined the total square feet of surface, the next step is to determine the method of application that will be used to apply the sealer. Most asphalt sealer manufacturers recommend 2 coats for the proper application of asphalt sealer however, there are two methods this can be done. 1) By using a 1 step 2 coat method 2) By using a 2 step 2 coat method. The 1 step 2 coat method requires slightly less material and takes slightly less time and the finished look has quite a bit of brush marks. The 2 step 2 coat method will require slightly more material and takes more time, but the end result is beautiful with the brush marks drying in long sweeping runs. We go into great detail how to apply sealer using both methods in Chapter 4 Sealcoating which can be found on pages 58 and 63. Make sure and review those chapters to determine which application method you'd prefer to use. To apply the sealer using the 1 step 2 coat method, divide the total square feet by 60. To apply the sealer using the 2 step 2 coat method, divide the total square feet by 50. The final number of gallons needed to seal the entire surface will vary depending on how rough the surface of the asphalt is. The rougher the surface the more material will be required. For a rough and rocky surface add an additional 20% to the total gallons needed and that should cover it. In some cases there may be material left over but it's much better to have too much material than not enough. 19

20 Asphalt sealer can be purchased in 5 Gallon buckets and 55 gallon drums and even larger quantities of needed. 20

21 Estimating: Choosing An Asphalt Sealer There are three types of sealer to choose from. A water based Coal-tar sealer, a water based asphalt emulsion sealer and an oil based sealer which are also known as Asphalt Rejuvenators. Water Based Coal-tar Asphalt Sealer Water based Coal-tar sealers have been widely used for sealing driveways and parking lots for decades. Coal-tar is a derivative of coal and has excellent properties for waterproofing, flexibility and binding for adhering to the asphalt. Unfortunately Coal-tar is a Group 1 carcinogen. As a matter of fact the use of coal tar has recently been banned in some states including California and Texas. Most asphalt sealer manufacturers have slowly been making the switch to water based asphalt emulsion sealers and will carry either an asphalt emulsion sealer or an asphalt emulsion/coal tar mix sealer. Water Based Asphalt Emulsion Sealer Asphalt emulsion sealers are gaining popularity and are being used more frequently for sealing asphalt. They're safe they're environmentally friendly and they don't emit the chemical fumes that coal tar sealers do. Asphalt emulsion sealers have made great strides in quality and durability over the past few years but they re slightly less resistant to fading and durability from oxidization and salts, and chemical and petroleum spills. If using a safe and environmentally conscious product is important to you, then water based asphalt emulsion sealer is the product to choose. Oil Based Asphalt Sealer Oil based sealers or asphalt rejuvenation sealers as they're sometimes referred to are becoming rare as they also have ingredients know to cause cancer and even birth defects. Oil based sealers can rejuvenate the surface oils in the asphalt helping to make the surface of the asphalt last much longer but they re rarely used because they cannot be applied to a driveway that has previously been sealed with coal tar or asphalt emulsion sealers. A water based sealer can be applied over an oil based sealer... but an oil based sealer cannot be applied over a water based sealer. Since most of us don't know what type of sealer our driveway's been sealed with in the past, coal tar or asphalt emulsion sealers usually are the product of choice. Also, oil base sealers are rarely used by homeowners because they must be spray applied. They cannot be squeegeed. 21

22 When choosing an asphalt sealer, we highly recommend purchasing professional grade materials to seal your driveway rather than using materials from a local hardware store. Sealing a driveway is very hard and dirty work and these sealers are simply low grade products that last half as long. We ve sealed many driveways within 1 or two years after a homeowner has sealed their driveway themselves and it s obvious that these materials are nothing close to the quality of sealers manufactured for professional use. If you're going to invest the time and hard work into sealing your driveway, why not use the highest quality products that will last the longest. You may be surprised! In most regions of the country the difference in cost is very little if any. To purchase professional grade materials, visit our asphalt maintenance supplier locator to find a supplier near you who will supplies materials to homeowners. ers.html Or, contact us by phone or and we'll help locate an asphalt sealer manufacturer near you. Thank you for purchasing our Do It Yourself Asphalt Sealcoating ebook. We hope your driveway turns out beautiful and helps save you hundreds of dollars! As always, if you have any questions, visit our blog at allaboutdriveways.com/blog or simply us by clicking on the contact us button which can be found at the top of any page of our website or click here We hope sealing your driveway is a success! 22

23 Estimating: Tools and Materials List Old Shoes, Pants, and Shirt Safety Glasses Gloves Knee Pads Screwdriver Nut driver A 2" putty knife 2 plastic painter s cups Masking tape Caution tape or orange ribbon to string up at the end of the driveway Concentrate Degreaser for cleaning oil spots Oil Spot Primer Spray bottle and a small brush for minor cleanup A square point shovel A sharp point shovel A small squeegee or professional crack squeegee Hand broom or whisk broom Heavy bristle push broom or wire push broom Leaf Blower Garden Hose and Spray Nozzle Squeegee brush or brushes, and handle Play sand Closed Cell Backer rod Black sand Cold patch asphalt mix Crack sealing material Asphalt sealer Note: Not every tool on this list is needed to sealcoat an asphalt driveway. Please review the ebook or tutorial videos to determine which tools you ll need for your driveway. 23

24 Materials Worksheet Total Square feet of patching: Existing thickness Ttl Sq Ft = (Formula: Divide the Total Square Feet by: 1 thick: 5; 2 thick: 2.5; 3 thick: 1.67; 4 thick: 1.25) Cold patch asphalt mix: Bags needed (Round Up) Total linear feet of ¼ wide cracks: 60 = Total linear feet of ½ wide cracks: 30 = Total linear feet of ¾ wide cracks: 20 = Total linear feet of 1 wide cracks: 15 = Total: Crack sealing material: Gallons Needed (Round Up) Play sand: Bags Needed (Round Up) (Formula: 1-50lb Bag for every 100 Linear Feet of Cracks) or Closed Cell Backer Rod: 1/4 Rolls Needed (Round Up) 3/8 Rolls Needed (Round Up) 1/2 Rolls Needed (Round Up) 5/8 Rolls Needed (Round Up) 3/4 Rolls Needed (Round Up) 1 Rolls Needed (Round Up) (Backer rod is commonly found in 20 rolls. Formula: Total linear feet of each width of crack 20) Black sand: Gallons Needed (Round Up) (Formula: 1 Gallon Per every 100 Linear Feet of cracks being sealed) 24

25 Materials Worksheet Page 2 Total square feet of asphalt surface: Asphalt sealer: Gallons Needed (Round Up) (Formula: Total Square Feet divided by 60 for 1 Step 2 Coat method; Divided by 50 for 2 Step 2 Coat Method) Add an additional 20% for rough surface: Gallons Needed (Round Up) (Formula: Total gallons needed above multiplied by 1.20) 25

26 Cleaning & Preparation: Getting Started In this Chapter, we re going to cover preparing the driveway performing necessary patch repairs, sealing the cracks and cleaning and preparing the surface getting it ready to apply the asphalt sealer. A good sealcoat job is only as good as the preparation that's invested into it. The more thorough the preparation, the better the end result! What we're going to learn in this chapter: How to prepare the cracks and get them ready to seal How to Prepare Alligatored Areas How to install a backer How to prepare oil spots How to make patch repairs How to prepare the asphalt surface for applying the asphalt sealer A few very important notes: Make sure that there is no rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours. Sprinkler system is shut off. All pets are secured away from the driveway. Put up some caution tape at the entrance to the driveway to keep cars from pulling up onto the driveway while you're working on it. 26

27 Cleaning & Preparation: Patching The first thing that should be done is patching any failed areas or potholes in the asphalt before anything else. Whether it's a potholed area, a trench cut or a failed area the repair process is basically the same for each. If there are any failed areas that look like an alligators back and the sub-grade is beginning to push through the cracks, then the area will need to be patched. Remove the broken asphalt from within the alligatored area. The outside edge of the asphalt will not be square but that s not necessary. Remove soil, broken asphalt and debris from the area. 27

28 Next, prepare the soil so that it matches the existing level of sub-grade. If you re patching a pothole and the hole has been filled with dirt and debris, shovel out the debris, again matching the existing level of the sub-grade. 28

29 If the pothole is deep then fill the hole to match the existing level of the sub-grade with a hard durable material like crushed asphalt, road base or crushed concrete. DO NOT use top soil or any soft material. DO NOT use materials that can shift underneath the new asphalt such as gravel or rocks, otherwise the patch will more than likely fail. If you don t have a plate compactor or roller to compact the patch with, add the sub-grade material to the hole in layers compacting it manually before adding the next layer. For Do It Yourself cold patching, a plate compactor or asphalt roller isn t necessary. Once the sub-grade is equal to the level of the bottom of the existing asphalt and compacted, clean the area around the patch with a heavy bristled broom or a wire broom making sure to get it as clean as possible. 29

30 Then, add the cold patch asphalt mix a little bit at a time. Again, if you don't have a plate compactor or a roller to compact the cold mix with, add it in layers, compacting each layer before adding the next layer. Use a 4x4 or a 2 x 4 to compact the material as you go paying especially close attention to the edges. 30

31 Paint the edges of the patch or repair with some of the crack sealing material if you have enough left over for added benefit. This will help the new cold mix bond to the old asphalt better. For the last layer add enough cold mix to the patch making it slightly higher than the surrounding asphalt. This way, once the patch has settled and compacted, it will be close to the same height as the existing asphalt surrounding it and not low. If the completed patch is too low, the area will hold water which will cause it to fail. It's very important to leave the material a little high for the final layer. 31

32 Finally, sweep a light dusting of dirt onto the patch to help keep it from sticking to car tires as it's driven on. Notes: Sealing patched areas whether their hot or cold patched should be avoided as the mix needs to cure and harden for at least 6 months before sealing. Seal around patched areas. 32

33 Cleaning & Preparation: Cleaning and Preparing Cracks There are two types of cracks. Elongated cracks or field cracks which are out in the middle or the field of the asphalt, and transitional cracks which is the seam between the asphalt and a concrete pad or a garage floor. As we covered in estimating cracks under chapter 1 Estimating: Cacks (Page 7) all cracks that are approximately 1/4" or wider will be sealed with crack sealing material. Cracks that are smaller than 1/4" will be sealed with the asphalt sealer when we apply it to the surface of the driveway. To prepare the cracks and get them ready for crack sealing, looking at the cracks visually that are 1/4" or wider if they're full of dirt clean them out a screwdriver. Get all of the 33

34 dirt and debris out of them. We want enough crack sealing material to get down into the crack to seal it up properly so clean them out so that their at least ¾ of an inch deep. Clean any weeds or vegetation or large debris like rocks or sticks or leaves or anything that will be in the way when installing backer and or sealing them. Clean out both the field cracks and the transitional cracks. If the cracks are more than an inch deep or have no visual bottom to them then they will need to have a backer installed into them which we covered under Chapter One Estimating: Choosing A Backer. Cracks that are less than a ¼ wide, clean them as good as possible freeing them from dirt and debris. Notes: If the cracks are moist or wet, make sure they're completely dry before adding backer or sealing them. On a hot day they should dry out pretty quickly. If not you may have to wait a day or so for them to completely dry out. Also, if the plan is to spray the surface of the driveway and clean it off with water and brooms, then after sealing cracks allow 24 to 48 hours to completely dry out before spraying off the driveway. Be sure and add black sand to freshly sealed cracks if you plan on using the driveway in between that time. 34

35 Cleaning & Preparation: Alligatored Areas When it comes to alligatored areas, which is an area that is cracking and failing and looks an alligators back, those are handled differently. Rather than cleaning out all of the cracks within an alligatored area and sealing them each individually, clean out the outermost crack only, creating an outline of the area. If an alligatored area is sealed with a rubberized crack sealer, pieces of asphalt can stick to our car tires and get pulled out. That area then becomes a pothole and will need to be patched. The cracks within the area will be sealed with the asphalt sealer when we apply the sealer to the driveway. 35

36 Cleaning & Preparation: Installing Backer Rod To install backer rod use a diameter that's slightly wider than each crack. This will ensure a tight fit keeping the backer rod from sinking to deep into the crack. Push the backer rod down into the crack about ¾ of an inch deep using a nut driver or any tool that has a dull end to minimize tearing or puncturing. If the backer rod does get torn or punctured, either remove it and start over or just add another layer of backer on top of the first one making sure to push it down far enough to gain ¾ of an inch depth. 36

37 One downfall of backer rod is that sometimes the crack sealer will seep by the backer rod and not seal up the crack properly. This is indicative of areas where the crack sealer has leaked through. In this case, these areas may have to be re-sealed. Notes: If the cracks are moist or wet, make sure they're completely dry before adding backer or sealing them. On a hot day they should dry out pretty quickly. If not you may have to wait a day or so for them to completely dry out. Also, if the plan is to spray the surface of the driveway and clean it off with water and brooms, then after sealing cracks allow 24 to 48 hours to completely dry out before spraying off the driveway. Be sure and add black sand to freshly sealed cracks if you plan on using the driveway in between that time. 37

38 Cleaning & Preparation: Installing Sand Backer To install sand backer, pour the sand down into the crack making sure to leave at least ¾ of an inch of depth. In some instances where the crack is deep, the sand will just continue to pour into the crack. In this case, continue pouring the sand until it fills up the crack. If the crack is narrow, sweep the sand back and forth over that area until the crack eventually fills up. If too much sand fills the crack to the top, scrape them out with the screwdriver or distribute the sand across the crack with the hand broom making sure to 38

39 leave at least ¾ of an inch of depth. It's very important to have at least an inch of void in order for the crack to seal up properly. Once all of the cracks are full, blow the cracks or sweep them off getting the surface on either side of the crack as clean as possible. Notes: If the cracks are moist or wet, make sure they're completely dry before adding backer or sealing them. On a hot day they should dry out pretty quickly. If not you may have to wait a day or so for them to completely dry out. Also, if the plan is to spray the surface of the driveway and clean it off with water and brooms, then after sealing cracks allow 24 to 48 hours to completely dry out before spraying off the driveway. Be sure and add black sand to freshly sealed cracks if you plan on using the driveway in between that time. 39

40 Cleaning & Preparation: Oil Spots Oil spots will need to be addressed by either coating them with an oil spot primer or by scrubbing them with a heavy bristled or wire broom and industrial strength degreaser and water. Ultimately the best way to treat oil spots is to clean them and prime for the optimum results. You may have to repeat the process a few times, pouring degreaser, scrubbing and rinsing each time to remove the oil and get the surface as clean as possible. Once the area is completely dry, apply the oil spot primer allowing it to dry completely before applying the asphalt sealer. 40

41 Cleaning & Preparation: The Asphalt Surface This can be the hardest part in sealing an asphalt driveway. It can be the most timeconsuming and most laborious part of the job especially if the surface of the asphalt has a rough rocky appearance. This rough rocky appearance is referred to as raveling. Here s an illustration of the process of raveling. Upon installation a new asphalt driveway is somewhat smooth and over time, if the asphalt is not sealed the liquid asphalts become oxidized by the sun and become brittle. Then rain or ice and snow melt wash them away exposing the next layer of liquid asphalts and the process repeats itself over and over slowly deteriorating the thickness of the asphalt. 41

42 Sealing the asphalt surface slows down this process dramatically. This is why the cleaning portion of the job is so important. If the surface is not cleaned properly, then the sealer will not stick well and wear off prematurely. In some instances, this rough rocky appearance can also be caused by a sub-standard and poor installation job. The installation contractor allowed the asphalt cool down too much before compacting it with the asphalt rollers or by compacting the asphalt with just a plate compactor. Sealing the asphalt can help slow down the raveling process. So cleaning the surface of the asphalt is probably the most important part of the job. And the better we clean the surface the better the results we'll have. The cleaner the surface is, the longer it will last and the more professional it will look. Start the cleaning process by cleaning the edges of the asphalt. Using a square point shovel, remove the overgrowth, dirt and debris exposing the edge of the asphalt. 42

43 Once the edges have all been exposed, blow all of the loose dirt and debris off of the driveway or sweep it off using a push broom if you don't have a blower. Once all of the loose material has cleaned and removed from the entire driveway, do a second and more thorough cleaning. There's two ways to clean the driveway: Using brooms and blowers. Using brooms and water. We prefer using stiff bristled or wire brooms and water because it's not nearly as dusty and dirty, it's much less physical work and we believe it cleans the asphalt much more thoroughly. If the surface of the driveway is in fact raveled, rough and rocky and the aggregates are exposed either in spots or on the entire driveway, it s important that the voids within in the asphalt are as clean as possible. 43

44 If brooms and blowers are being used, move the broom back and forth while simultaneously blowing off the dirt. If brooms and water are being used, move the broom back and forth while simultaneously spraying the dirt off. Next, blow or spray the edges exposing the edge as much as possible. This will make a real nice and clean edge for the sealer to adhere to. Using water to cut back that edge even further will help to keep from getting dirt into the sealer as it s being applied to surface. 44

45 Notes: If crack sealing work was performed, wait 24 to 48 hours to allow the crack sealing material to completely dry before spraying off the surface with water. 45

46 Crack Sealing: Getting Started Sealing the cracks in your asphalt driveway properly will help minimize even further damage like alligatoring and potholes. This can be just as important as installing brakes on a car the longer we wait the more damage that can occur resulting in higher costs for repairs. What we're going to learn in this section: How to seal field cracks And how to seal transitional cracks Crack sealing is very important to the longevity or life of an asphalt driveway. Not only should it be performed prior to sealing the driveway, but should be performed at least once a year. The best time for routine crack sealing is in the fall when the asphalt has cooled down and the cracks are open at their widest. Then, as the temperatures climb back up again in the spring and the asphalt expands it squeezes the crack sealing material creating a tighter seal. A few very important notes: Make sure that there is no rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours. Sprinkler system is shut off. All pets are secured away from the driveway. Put up some caution tape at the entrance to the driveway to keep cars from pulling up onto the driveway while you're working on it. If the plan is to seal the cracks on one day and then seal the surface of the asphalt on another day, we recommend sprinkling black sand onto the cracks to keep the material from sticking to car tires, bike tires and shoes while you use the driveway. 46

47 Crack Sealing: Field Cracks Once the cracks have been cleaned and prepared, they re ready to be sealed up. It's very important to make sure that the cracks are completely dry before beginning the crack sealing process. If the cracks are moist or wet the crack sealing material will not bond to the asphalt properly. Since crack sealing is such an important maintenance procedure, it's also very important that they are sealed up properly. If the crack sealant is simply just poured into the crack it doesn't bond to the asphalt properly. It can separate over time which will allow water to penetrate that crack again carrying away the sand backer or getting the backer rod wet which will eventually cause the backer to deteriorate. 47

48 For a much better seal, we recommend creating a water tight band over the crack so that there s more area for the sealer to adhere to the asphalt. The end result is less likelihood of water entering the crack. To create this water tight band, in order for the crack sealing material to bond to the asphalt properly, clean the surface of the asphalt on both sides of the crack as good as possible. 48

49 Pour the crack sealing material into the crack with a bead slightly higher than the asphalt surface. Center the squeegee over the crack and drag it spreading the crack sealing material out on either side of the crack, making sure not to leave any ridges or high spots. Seal the cracks in 3 or 4 feet sections especially on a hot day so the material can be spread out before it begins to dry and add black sand if it's needed. 49

50 Notes: As the crack sealing material dries and cures it will settle but this will not affect the performance of the crack sealer. If the cracks are moist or wet, make sure they're completely dry before adding backer or sealing them. On a hot day they should dry out pretty quickly. If not you may have to wait a day or so for them to completely dry out. Also, if the plan is to spray the surface of the driveway and clean it off with water and brooms, then after sealing cracks allow 24 to 48 hours to completely dry out before spraying off the driveway. Be sure and add black sand to freshly sealed cracks if you plan on using the driveway in between that time 50

51 Crack Sealing: Transitional Cracks When sealing transitional cracks, fill the crack slightly higher than surface of the asphalt but not quite as high as the field crack. To create a water tight bond, use a putty knife rather than the squeegee to keep from getting the black sealing material onto the concrete. In this case take the putty knife and create as tight of bond to the asphalt and concrete as possible by spreading the material onto the asphalt being very careful not to get any of it on the concrete. 51

52 To be certain not to get any crack sealer onto the concrete, use some masking tape to create a nice straight edge. Keep in mind to peel the tape off while the crack sealing material is still wet to keep it from peeling the dry crack sealer. Notes: As the crack sealing material dries and cures it will settle but this will not affect the performance of the crack sealer. If the cracks are moist or wet, make sure they're completely dry before adding backer or sealing them. On a hot day they should dry out pretty quickly. If not you may have to wait a day or so for them to completely dry out. Also, if the plan is to spray the surface of the driveway and clean it off with water and brooms, then after sealing cracks allow 24 to 48 hours to completely dry out before spraying off the driveway. Be sure and add black sand to freshly sealed cracks if you plan on using the driveway in between that time 52

53 Sealcoating: Getting Started Once the surface of the asphalt has been cleaned and prepared, we re ready to begin applying the asphalt sealer. The process of applying the sealer can make a huge impact on how long an application will last. What we're going to learn in this section: How to apply the sealer on the edges next to the garage or home, sidewalks or concrete pads. How to apply the sealer in the field area using a 1 step 2 coat method And how to apply the sealer using a 2 step 2 coat method A few very important notes: Make sure that there is no rain in the forecast for at least 24 to 48 hours. Sprinkler system is shut off. Temperatures are at least 50 degrees and rising No freezing temperatures forecasted overnight. Make sure all pets are secured away from the driveway. Put up some caution tape at the entrance to the driveway to keep cars from pulling up onto the driveway while you're working on it. To avoid getting the sealer on anything we don't want it on like the garage, the house or concrete, etc. A) Stick some masking tape on the edges next to the asphalt making sure to peel the tape off before the sealer dries B) Have a spray bottle and a small brush ready to clean any splashes that may occur! Now if it's hot out and the surface is warm or even hot you may have to move quickly to get the sealer cleaned off before it dries in order to keep it from staining the surface. If the sealer does dry, it can be cleaned off with a citrus based cleaner or in some cases painted over. 53

54 Sealcoating: Edging When applying the sealer, begin applying it by the home or next to the garage, then work your way out of the driveway. If at the end of the driveway there s a sidewalk or pavement or a concrete entrance or something you don't want to get sealer or footprints on, then once you get close to the entrance of the driveway switch directions. Then edge the sidewalk or the street and apply the sealer in the opposite direction eventually making your exit on the side of the driveway. Spray a very light mist of water onto the asphalt before you begin applying the sealer. This will help spread the material a little easier. More importantly it will help to get the material to flow down into the voided areas further. 54

55 Pour a ribbon of sealer about 18" or so from any edges being real careful... pouring the material out onto the asphalt very lightly so that doesn't splash on to your home or on to any concrete or other hard surfaces. Push or pull the sealer material with the squeegee next to the house or garage leaving a small bead of sealer right up next to the edges. Put a slight angle on the squeegee so that as you pull the material it releases very little next the edge. Do this very slowly. Once you ve pulled approximately 10 feet or so go back to where you started, put your squeegee down and push just a slight amount of material toward the edge very, very slowly. Then set your squeegee down and then pull the material towards you. Do this back and forth along the edge that was just cut in but very lightly to keep from splashing 55

56 sealer onto the house or garage or concrete. This will work the sealer into the voided areas a little better by spreading the material in two different directions. Once the material has been worked in both directions, push the squeegee along that edge very slowly to remove any excess material as well as conceal the squeegee brush marks Then spread the excess material out along the outer edge to keep any ridges from drying. 56

57 If you're using masking tape pull it off before the sealer dries and without walking in the sealer. Do this for all of the edges next to the house or garage. Then move on to the field of the asphalt. 57

58 Sealcoating: Sealing The Field 1 Step 2 Coats Most asphalt sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer in 2 steps for optimum results. Applying one coat, allowing it to dry then apply the second coat. However there are lots of professionals that apply asphalt sealer using a 1 step 2 coat method. Applying the sealer using this method can save time and some material since it requires a little less sealer. In this chapter we're going to cover how to apply sealer using the 1 step 2 coat method. Working in approximately a 10 X 10 area, spray a fine mist of water onto the asphalt surface. Be sure not to spray too much water as this will dilute the sealer compromising the quality of the material. Next, pour a ribbon of sealer out onto the asphalt up one side of your working area, next to the edge of the last working area then down the other side. 58

59 Then spread the sealer starting on one side going back and forth over the same path both directions until you've coated your 10 X 10 area. Then go back to the starting point and begin spreading the sealer in a cross pattern, pushing the material toward each edge going back and forth over the same path in both directions but this time without walking in the sealer. Do this for about 3 passes or about 5 feet from the starting point. 59

60 Now take the squeegee and pull the ridges and excess material off of the area from one side to the other. Now take the squeegee and push over the area to remove any left over ridges and high spots making sure to slightly overlap the last working area. Repeat this pattern for the remainder of the working area. 60

61 If the edges of the asphalt are exposed, allow some material to flow over that edge. Using the squeegee, push the material back and forth to fill in the voids. Continue sealing in this pattern on the entire driveway or until you reach your exit point. Then switch directions if you have a sidewalk or a street or anything at the entrance you don't want to get sealer or footprints on. Keep in mind while you're working this pattern to spread out any high ridges that are left along the sides or the end of your working area. 61

62 Notes: Once your driveway is completely sealed, allow at minimum 24 hours for the sealer to cure before driving on it. Some minor scarring may still occur after that waiting period, but that's perfectly normal. Waiting more than 24 hours is not necessary. Sealcoating will not make the asphalt smooth again like when it was new, so if your driveway is rough or is deteriorated and you're looking to restore the asphalt back to a smooth surface, it will still look rough. You may be better off saving your money and having the driveway completely removed and replaced or adding an overlay to it. However, not all driveways are candidates for an overlay so be sure to watch our free asphalt installation videos to determine if your driveway is a candidate for an overlay. These videos can be accessed by visiting our website at As always, if you have any questions visit our blog or us by clicking on the contact us button which can be found at the top of any page on our website. 62

63 Sealcoating: Sealing The Field 1 Step 2 Coats In this chapter we're going to go through how to apply asphalt sealer using the preferred 2 step 2 coat method which is recommended by most asphalt sealer manufacturers. It does take more time and a bit more sealer but the end result looks beautiful with the squeegee brush marks drying in long sweeping runs. To achieve this look apply the first coat of sealer from side to side parallel with the street, then once it dries we'll come back and apply the second coat length wise. 63

64 Using the 2 step 2 coat method, this time we re going to be working on an area a little larger about 5 feet in depth by the width of the driveway. First, spray a fine mist of water onto the asphalt surface. Be sure not to spray too much water as this will dilute the sealer compromising the quality of the material. Then pour a ribbon of sealer out onto the asphalt next to the edge of the driveway, next to the edging or last working area and along the other edge. 64

65 Then cut the edges in on each side of the asphalt about 5 feet or so making sure to coat any exposed edges. Push the sealer material from one edge to the next. Pull the material back from the edge about 24 inches or so, then turn the squeegee around and push the material over the same path back to the other edge this time without walking in the sealer. 65

66 Then pull the excess material towards you and begin pushing the sealer material in a new path all the way to the other edge. Again, pull the material back from edge about 24 inches or so, then turn the squeegee around and push the material over the same path all the way back to the other edge. 66

67 Continue sealing in this pattern until you reach your exit point. Then switch directions edging the entrance if needed and then repeat the pattern until you exit the driveway. Then wait for this first coat to completely dry which can take anywhere from an hour or two or even more depending upon the humidity and temperatures of the region you live in. Now when applying the second coat, apply it in the opposite direction. Starting on one edge of the asphalt pour a ribbon of sealer about 30 feet or so in length. 67

68 Then begin spreading the sealer just like the first coat. Push the sealer all the way to the starting point. Then turn the squeegee around and push it all the way to the other edge. Again without walking in the sealer. Pull the excess material over to the next path. 68

69 Push the sealer all the way to the starting point. Then turn the squeegee around and push it all the way to the other end. Again making sure to not walk in it. Continue sealing in this pattern all the way to the end of the driveway. To keep from getting sealer off of the street or a concrete sidewalk or the street, remove your shoes and push the brush marks out of the final 2 or 3 feet of the driveway. This will also maintain the continuity of the brush marks. 69

70 Notes: Once your driveway is completely sealed, allow at minimum 24 hours for the sealer to cure before driving on it. Some minor scarring may still occur after that waiting period, but that's perfectly normal. Waiting more than 24 hours is not necessary. Sealcoating will not make the asphalt smooth again like when it was new, so if your driveway is rough or is deteriorated and you're looking to restore the asphalt back to a smooth surface, it will still look rough. You may be better off saving your money and having the driveway completely removed and replaced or adding an overlay to it. However, not all driveways are candidates for an overlay so be sure to watch our free asphalt installation videos to determine if your driveway is a candidate for an overlay. These videos can be accessed by visiting our website at As always, if you have any questions visit our blog or us by clicking on the contact us button which can be found at the top of any page on our website. 70