WALL-E s wardrobe. How to prevent e-textiles becoming the next e-waste problem? Andreas Köhler Ph.D candidate. Design for Sustainability program (DfS)

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1 WALL-E s wardrobe How to prevent e-textiles becoming the next e-waste problem? Andreas Köhler Ph.D candidate Delft University of Technology Design for Sustainability program (DfS) Delft University of Technology Challenge the future

2 E-waste: the bane of high-tech WEEE: Electrical or Electronic Equipment which is Waste 2

3 The e-waste problem 1. The growing e-waste mountains 2. The toxic load 3. Depletion Halogenated of scarce organic resources compounds: CFCs, PCB, Flame retardants etc. Copper Heavy metals Gold and or their components: Consequences: Arsenic, Barium, Cadmium, Palladium Chromium VI, Mercury, Lead, Selenium etc. Environmental pollution Indium Silver Human Arising health hazards of hazardous substances during disposal: Toxic fume, dioxin, leachates, poisonous ash Rare earth metals Tantalum Social and economic distortion Source: Cobbing

4 Waste: the fate of consumer products e-waste old garments ca % ca 30 % Köhler A.R. (2008): End-of-life implications of electronic textiles. Assessment of a converging technology. MSc-Report, IIIEE, Lund University, Sweden. 4

5 E-waste: the fate of high-tech products 5

6 E-waste: the fate of high-tech products 6

7 E-textiles a new generation of high-tech products 7

8 Enabling technologies of e-textiles Source: CSIRO Conductive textiles Polymer PWB and circuits Embroidered sensors Nano materials Micro controller Source: Volker Döring/Fraunhofer IZM Others: LED / OLED Batteries / capacitors Solar cells Piezo elements RFID Wifi antenna Body area network Anti counterfeit elements 8

9 Materials used in e-textiles Scarce elements used in commoditised electronics Environ. Sci. Technol. 2007" 9

10 Critical Materials used in electronics European Commission, (2010): Critical raw materials for the EU 10

11 Visions and trends for the design of e-textiles Seamless integration of textiles and electronics embedded integrated combined 11

12 Example: Silver Silver replaces for copper as conductive material Consider a mass application scenario: Electrocardiogram (ECG) sensor shirts for people older than 50 years (assuming 100 million users in the EU25) 7 sensor shirts per person (one per day of week) 700 million shirts to be produced 0.5 g silver per shirt silver demand = 350 metric tons Embroidered electrode made of silver coated thread Source: EMPA 12

13 Market diffusion scenarios of e-textiles scenario of the German market further explained in: Köhler A.R., L.M. Hilty and C. Bakker (2011): Prospective impacts of electronic textiles on recycling and disposal. J. of Industrial Ecology 15(4):

14 Scenarios of waste e-textile arising in Germany: mass flow textile embedded electronic components further explained in: Köhler A.R., L.M. Hilty and C. Bakker (2011): Prospective impacts of electronic textiles on recycling and disposal. J. of Industrial Ecology 15(4):

15 Recyclability of e-textiles e-waste old clothing 15

16 Possible recycling and disposal channels Köhler A.R. (2008): End-of-life implications of electronic textiles. Assessment of a converging technology. MSc-Report, IIIEE, Lund University, Sweden. 16

17 Recycling problems End-user would hardly recognise e-textiles (unobtrusiveness). -> No source separation. Existing e-waste take-back schemes are not designed for collection of e-textiles Existing recycling technologies are insufficient to recover highly dispersed materials from low-grade feedstock. Anticipated consequences: - E-textiles may enter general waste streams, - Environmental pollution, occupational exposure, health risks, - Loss of scarce materials, - Transboundary movements of waste into developing countries. 17

18 Recyclability of electronic textiles Similarities to the e-waste problem 1. Large amounts of waste e-textiles could arise in future. 2. Potentially problematic substances and combinations are used. 3. Scarce materials are dispersed in mass applications. Recycling problems 1. End-users will hardly recognise e-textiles. -> No source separation. 2. Existing e-waste take-back schemes are not designed for collection of e-textiles 3. Existing recycling technologies are insufficient 18

19 Global Recycling rates of Critical Materials 19

20 Current role of eco-design in the innovation process - Insufficient knowledge about environmental and waste implications - There are too few incentives for them to engage in eco-innovation - High uncertainty about future regulatory situation - Few incentives for innovators to strive for eco-innovation proactively Waste prevention is not a priority in e-textiles development - E-textiles are still in an early phase of innovation. - Most innovators agree with the need for sustainable innovation in general. - E-textiles could offer opportunities for sustainable functions. - Both sectors of industry have experiences with eco-design Opportunities to avoid future problems by implementing eco-design 20

21 Sectoral approaches and policies for eco-design Convergence of two technology sectors: Electronics & Textile Eco-design approaches are different in each sector EcoDesign for legal compliance EcoDesign through system organization EcoDesign through technology EcoDesign for eco-value. ECMA-standard 341 Policy framework in Europe: Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): WEEE Directive on waste electronic appliances RoHS Directive:restriction of the use of certain hazardous substances Waste framework directive: imposes IPR to technology developers Eco-design directive on energy using products (EuP) 21

22 Sectoral approaches and policies for eco-design Convergence of two technology sectors: Electronics & Textiles Eco-design approaches are different in each sector Increasing consumer demand for Green Textiles Various Eco-labeling schemes (green fibre production, chemicals free ) Labels addressing ethical issues Textile industry focuses on greening the supply chain, and eco-performance of production processes Policy framework in Europe: Reach Directive: Chemical registration National regulation of consumer protection No Extended Producer Responsibility in the textiles sector 22

23 Challenges for eco-design of e-textiles Focus on design for recycling (examples) Prevailing design vision of e-textiles Amalgamation of electronic and textile materials Unobtrusive design of e-components Seamless integration of electronics Miniaturization of electronic components Increasing number of devices New materials are used New combinations of materials Dispersion of valuable materials in large amounts of bulk materials Eco-design principles (DfR) Reduce the variety of materials used Easy source separation Easy disassembly of parts Reduce the weight of the product Avoid use of hazardous materials Recyclability of valuable materials 23

24 Conclusions Eco-innovation for e-textiles A waste preventative innovation strategy is necessary = Design for Recyclability (Eco-design) Implementation before e-textiles become mass applications Governance of the innovation process: encouraging eco-innovation EU Waste Framework Directive (2008) imposes Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) to technology developers 24

25 Questions for the workshop - How to design e-textiles so as to avoid future e-waste problems? - What can designers do for sustainable innovation? - Who should be involved in the sustainable innovation process? - Is there a need for governance of the innovation process? 25