GENERIC GUIDELINES ON ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN THE GARMENT SECTOR
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1 GENERIC GUIDELINES ON ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN THE GARMENT SECTOR In Collaboration with November 2009
2 BACKGROUND These brief notes have been taken from a variety of sources covering some of the key issues related to improving energy efficiency in the garment sector. They should be viewed as an introduction to energy efficiency processes and steps that can be taken by manufacturers to improve their energy performance. As such, they provide a good starting point, but must be followed up by additional measures to acquire individual factory audit, sector and country specific data: Energy audits of selected factories to generate measured energy performance data. Identification of equipment types and practices in Cambodia. Using the benchmarking survey results, combined with energy audit data and industry practice examples, to then produce an industry best practice guidance document. The Best Practice document will complement these guidelines by presenting information specifically related to Cambodia with the inclusion of some best practice examples for the region and wider. Given the high percentage of non-electricity energy used in Cambodia, additional measures will also look specifically at efficiency of boilers, sustainability of wood, alternative sources. The Best Practice guidance documents are expected to be completed and available for dissemination by March Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector
3 GUIDELINES FOR IMPROVING ENERGY EFFICIENCY IN THE GARMENT SECTOR OVERVIEW There are a number of practical measures that factories can take to reduce their overall energy consumption. Given the Cambodia garment sector context, most common energy saving measures should be: sewing machine controllers; energy efficient lighting systems (including energy-saving tubes and electronic ballasts); air-ventilation upgrade and optimization; boiler upgrade. Making an initial commitment and then assessing energy use though an energy audit are the first steps to be taken. Goal setting and action planning should be outputs from the energy efficiency audit. This approach enables each business to identify best management and technical/technology approaches which are then used to determining as a priority, low cost high energy saving potential projects. The general approach is summarized in the table below, with some suggested categories, but would need to be amended according to priority areas in Cambodia and relative costing: Table: Potential action items for Garment Sector Best Practice Energy Savings Capital Cost Priority 1. Conduct Baseline Data and Energy Audit High Low High 2. Optimize existing lighting (proximity and task based lighting) 3. Energy efficiency management procedures, staff awareness and training High Low High Medium Low High 4. Automated lighting control High Low Medium 5. Upgrade fluorescent lighting/compact fluorescent bulbs/ electronic ballasts High Medium Medium 6. Evaporative cooling system High High Low 7. Steam leak detection/repair for boilers High Low Medium 8. Determine appropriate task-based lighting Medium Low Low 9. Optimize equipment use/production changes Medium Low Low 10. Procurement policy to ensure purchase of energy efficient equipment. 11. Develop procedures and ensure factory-wide lighting system maintenance program Medium Low Low High Low Medium Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector 3
4 PRODUCTION INTENSITY Fully utilized manufacturing equipment uses resources, including energy, more efficiently. The effect can be dramatic: Assessment Evaluate equipment: When production areas are shut down, sometimes support systems are either not turned off or incompletely turned off. Equipment startup: Many types of equipment require a start-up period to reach operational or peak efficiency. Shutdown: Employees can react to large changes in production by overreacting or under reacting. When production spikes, too much equipment can be put into service and when production dips equipment might be taken out of service too slowly or in an inefficient way leaving underutilized plant. Work phasing: Especially during a downturn in production, several areas of production can be working at less than optimal levels. Action Investigate whether ancillary systems to the manufacturing equipment can operate with reduced use or be eliminated. Consider lighting, compressed air, ventilation, boilers, etc. Evaluate equipment types and if possible, schedule work to minimize the frequency of shutdown/startup cycles Consider shutting down entire production areas or specific pieces of equipment to better respond to production changes. Consider shifting or phasing work schedules so that equipment is used more efficiently and areas can be more easily shutdown ENERGY AUDITS Energy audits are a critical component in determining baseline numbers which then determine what actions should be taken according to priority and cost. While the benchmarking piloting program has produced some worthwhile indicative data, the only way to determine what specific energy saving measures are appropriate for a specific factory is to measure energy use performance. Baseline (benchmarking) data provide an insight into energy-use trends. Gross electricity consumption and cost data is usually easily determined from monthly utility bills. Garment factories also need to account for energy use from any on-site diesel generators or wood-fired boilers. Once these baseline energy data have been compiled, a more comprehensive energy audit can be commissioned. The energy audit is used to determine which specific processes use the most energy. The audit is usually performed by an experienced external contractor who has the necessary measuring equipment to measure individual equipment consumption. The initial audit may indicate a need to track the factory s total energy use in more detail by installing additional energy meters. Often, the analysis of energy use data collected during an energy audit will uncover energy inefficiencies and make clear what steps can be taken. An experienced energy auditor will be able to interpret the data and provide an action plan of costed improvements with indicative energy and ultimate operation cost savings included. 4 Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector
5 AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT Lighting Lighting is one of the biggest energy consumers in a garment factory and so this is often a priority for action. The following approach is recommended: Determine appropriate lighting levels for work areas, offices and minimize general space lighting Optimize existing lighting systems, and if possible in the factory, re-organize work areas to areas of high natural lighting Upgrade systems using energy efficient lighting Ensure regular maintenance of lighting systems (even cleaning units can results in considerable improvements to lighting output) Before considering potential energy efficiency projects, garment factories should objectively evaluate lighting needs throughout the whole facility: Are there areas that have excess lighting? Should some areas have more lighting to increase worker productivity? Factories should first determine the specific lighting needs of the workers dependent on the specific tasks completed in each area of the facility, following local and recognized standards. Recommended lighting levels are based on a number of factors, and represent the level at which tasks can be completed with minimal eyestrain. Once any deficiencies in the current lighting scheme are identified, then lighting efficiency projects can be implemented accordingly. Optimize lighting: Improving lighting efficiency does not always require changing or purchasing new fixtures and lights. In some cases, minor modifications to existing systems or improved maintenance practices can improve the lighting levels and quality. a) Adjust lighting proximity: In areas of garment factories with high ceilings, such as warehouses and garment cutting areas, excess lighting may be installed to ensure an adequate amount of light reaches working surfaces. Garment factories should evaluate the feasibility of lowering ceiling-mounted ballasts and lighting, decreasing the overall distance from lighting sources to working areas. This simple modification can often be completed using existing equipment and will (i) better utilize installed lighting, and (ii) require fewer lamps to light the working space. b) Use task lighting: Are the right types of lights used for each area? There are three general categories of lighting in manufacturing settings: general/ambient, task, and indirect. Employing each appropriately is important in energy efficiency, worker productivity, and worker safety and comfort. In most cases in the garment factories, the main modification for better light design is to replace some of the general lighting with task lighting in essence putting the available lighting exactly where it is needed and nowhere else thereby reducing the need for general lighting in common areas. For example, the addition of lower power task lights for each sewing station would reduce the amount of ceiling-mounted lighting and energy consumption in the sewing room. c) Install automatic control systems: In some cases, automatic control devices may be installed to improve lighting efficiency. These systems turn lights on and off based on a fixed schedule, area occupancy, or lighting levels. Since most areas of garment factories are continually occupied, application of this technology to reduce energy consumption is limited to those areas that are used intermittently. Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector 5
6 Upgrade: Garment factories typically use fluorescent lighting that requires a ballast to start up, control power, and control light quality of the lamp. Other types of lighting exist that offer more appropriate lighting as needed to perform specific work tasks. Energy efficiency improvements can be achieved by upgrading both the ballast and the type of lamp. For example, significant energy savings potential in the lighting system can be realized by replacing magnetic ballasts, traditionally used in fluorescent tube lights, with electronic ballasts. Typical benefits from the use of these electronic ballasts include: lower heat dissipation, a lower level of flickering, longer life (30,000 hours, compared with around 10,000 hours), no starter is needed, and energy savings of 25-30% Maintenance: Maintaining lighting systems at optimal level will reduce costs. a) Clean and maintain bulbs: Often attention is only given to lighting systems when a lamp fails; however, regular cleaning and maintenance can enhance the overall performance of a lamp and lighting system. For example, the amount of light emitted from long-life bulbs will diminish over time not only because of age, but also because of dirt accumulation on fixtures, lamps, and room surfaces. Garment factories should implement a scheduled maintenance program to ensure that fixtures are routinely cleaned and properly maintained. At a minimum, Energy Star indicates that the following procedures should be documented and made available to all building management and maintenance staff to ensure that lighting systems are properly maintained: (i) fixture cleaning and re-lamping schedule, (ii) procedures for re-lamping, re-ballasting and cleaning, and (iii) procedures for proper lamp and ballast disposal b) Use strategic re-lamping: Energy Star encourages group re-lamping when lamps reach 70% of their projected life span, the point at which lamp performance begins to decrease in efficiency and output. Although lamps are replaced before the end of their useful life, the money and energy spent during the last months of the lamp would be better used on a replacement lamp. Group re-lamping also allows bulk purchases, decreases the amount of time spent replacing each lamp, and minimizes lighting service requests, ultimately reducing the overall lighting maintenance budget. Boiler systems Another key energy user in garment factories is the boiler. Garment manufacturers operate boilers to generate steam for ironing operations. In most facilities, the ironing boards are attached to a ventilation system that captures the heat emitted from the iron and exhausts it to the outside environment. The quantity and size of boilers located on site is proportional to the manufacturing operation. Simple maintenance and more significant retrofitting projects can improve the efficiency of the boiler, saving both energy and water. The resources invested into improving the efficiency of the boiler will be size and type dependent. Larger boilers offer greater potential energy savings. The next table presents potential energy efficiency projects for boilers, ranging from low-cost fixes to more significant projects with long-term benefits. Regardless of boiler size, all garment factories should have written operation and maintenance procedures in place to check for steam and water leaks. 6 Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector
7 Table: Energy Efficiency for Boilers Action Item Typical Energy Savings Cost Short-term Repair steam leaks to minimize avoidable steam loss 1-2% Moderate Medium-term Minimize vented steam to minimize avoidable loss of steam. 2-5% Low Longer-term Implement effective steam trap maintenance program to promote efficient operation of end-use heat transfer equipment and reduce live steam in the condensate system. Use high-pressure condensate to make low pressure steam to exploit the available energy in the returning condensate. Utilize backpressure turbine instead of pressure reducing or release valves to provide a more efficient method for reducing steam pressure. Optimize condensate recovery to recover the thermal energy in the condensate and reduce the amount of Make-up water needed. 2-5% Low 1-3% Moderate 5-8% High 1-3% High Cooling System Upgrades In hot, humid climates, cooling and ventilation systems can use significant amounts of energy. The constant demand for cooling and air conditioning often warrants a detailed evaluation of the efficiency of these systems. Some garment factories use evaporative cooling, a particularly effective cooling system that requires up to 75% less energy than traditional air conditioning units. These cooling differ from traditional air conditioning by evaporating water into the air stream to reduce temperature rather than using the compressors and refrigerants in air conditioning. Although evaporative cooling systems are most effective in dry climates where air has a greater capacity to absorb evaporating water, some garment factories in tropical climates have installed evaporative cooling systems with good cooling results and significant energy savings. Process Equipment Upgrades For most garment factories the other major energy use will be from the sewing machines, motors, pumps, compressors and other ancillary equipment. An energy audit will determine performance and whether consideration should be given to replacement. But other action items are likely to take priority. CONCLUSION There are a number of steps that garment factories can take to operate more energy efficiently, thereby reducing a substantial cost component of operations in a highly competitive market environment. Many of the measures listed above can be started immediately, while some will need to wait until an energy audit has been completed for the factory in question. Not all measures to save energy need high capital requirements. In fact, many of the suggestions are at no cost, or relatively low cost Generic Guidelines on Energy Efficiency in the Garment Sector 7
8 About Better Work Better Work, a unique partnership between the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), aims to improve labour standards and competitiveness in global supply chains. The focus is on scalable and sustainable solutions that build cooperation between government, employers and workers organisations, and international buyers. The Better Work global programme is supported by the governments of the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, Ireland, Japan, Norway, Luxembourg, Italy, and New Zealand. In Cambodia, Better Work programme is supported by Finland, Ireland, the Netherlands, New Zealand, andswitzerland For more information, visit About GMAC In mid 1996, most of the garment investors, coming from such a diverse background as China, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia & Singapore, decided to form an ad hoc unit (GMAC) to represent them as a group instead of being singled out individually when dealing with officials from the Ministry of Commerce (MoC), which has been charged by the Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC) to oversee the export of garments and the issuance of Certificates of Origin. In that same year, the RGC (MoC) working together with GMAC, were instrumental in the successful lobbying effort to persuade the US to grant Cambodia its Most Favoured Nation (MFN) status, in order that normal tariff applies to Cambodian garments imported into the USA. Thus began a journey of symbiotic cooperation between the garment manufacturers and the RGC that has stood the test of time until today. In 1999, GMAC was officially registered with the Ministry of Social Affairs, Labor, Veteran & Youth Affairs as a employers organisation in compliance with the Cambodian Labor Law Later on, it was incorporated as an association with the Ministry of Commerce. GMAC performs many roles. At the outset, it was a pressure group, making representations to MOC on issues that affect the general interests of its members. When external developments posed a threat to the well-being and survival of the Cambodian garment industry, GMAC was at the forefront lobbying the RGC to improve its trade facilitation efficiency and reduce fees and levies to keep the industry competitive in the world market. About the ILO The International Labour Organisation was established in 1919 by the Treaty of Versailles and became the first specialised agency of the United Nations system in Its work in setting and monitoring international labour standards has provided the framework for national labour law and practice in virtually all countries. The ILO s total budget for is just over US$900 million, including a regular budget of US$594 million plus US$306 million in extra-budgetary funds associated with special technical cooperation projects. For more information, visit ILO Better Factories Cambodia #9, St 322, Boeung Keng Kang 1, Phnom Penh Cambodia, PO Box 2642 Tel: +(855-23) Fax: +(855-23) About IFC IFC, a member of the World Bank Group, creates opportunity for people to escape poverty and improve their lives. We foster sustainable economic growth in developing countries by supporting private sector development, mobilizing private capital, and providing advisory and risk mitigation services to businesses and governments. In the Mekong region covering Cambodia, Lao PDR and Vietnam, IFC Advisory services are delivered in partnership with the European Union, Finland, Ireland, New Zealand, the Netherlands, and Switzerland. For more information, visit International Finance Corporation Nº70, Norodom Boulevard. Sangkat Chey Chumnas, P.O. Box 1115 Phnom Penh, Cambodia Tel: +(855) Fax: +(855)
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