CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 1. Textile Opportunities for the Circular Economy

Transcription

1 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 1 Textile Opportunities for the Circular Economy

2 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 2 Table of Contents EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 4 INTRODUCTION 5 BACKGROUND 6 METHODOLOGY 7 MARKET ANALYSIS 9 Technical Nutrient Fibers 10 Biological Nutrient Fobers 20 Fiber Blends 32 Dyes 38 Pigments 52 Performance Additives 58 Finishes 65 Apparel Accessories: Fasteners 78 Fashion Accessories 85 Thread 92 SUMMARY 96 APPENDIX A: KEY TO ASSESSMENT RATINGS 97 APPENDIX B: MANUFACTURER QUESTIONNAIRE 98 APPENDIX C: GLOSSARY OF TERMS 99 APPENDIX D: RESOURCES & WORKS CITED 103

3 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 3 Executive Summary This market analysis on textiles and accessories employed in the fashion industry intends to identify product categories and materials with potential to positively impact human and ecological health. The recommendations provided in this report aim to guide the allocation of resources towards increasing the number of Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM fashion materials that have been inventoried, assessed, and optimized for human and environmental health. This research serves as the base for our goal: to create safe and positive fashion materials primed and sourced for the circular economy. We aim to identify, certify and provide public access to the building blocks of the industry fibers, yarns, dyes, fasteners, etc. The shift into materials as inputs for the circular economy begins at the GOLD level of Cradle to Cradle certification. The fashion design and manufacturing community can use this analysis to identify areas in which to prioritize verification of healthy materials and create demand for alternatives that meet the GOLD level. This report uncovered some interesting data and opportunities. The pathway toward verified inputs for the circular economy in the context of textiles and fashion related products involves multiple stakeholders. Raw material suppliers, final manufacturers, branding professionals, and consumers are all integral in the design, development, and deployment of fashion products that celebrate human and ecological prosperity.

4 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 4 Introduction Since its creation in 2005, the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM Program for Products has continued to expand its market outreach. While materials and products for the built environment and textiles have been a focal point, Cradle to Cradle certification is now gaining momentum in consumer products, packaging, and personal care products. As a symbol of quality, more industries are looking to communicate their intention of continuous improvement using the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM mark. Recently, NGOs and stakeholders in the fashion industry have made a call for action to manufacturers at all stages of the supply chain to improve the quality of materials that flow through the fashion and textile industry. The goal is to identify materials that are safe for humans and the environment while also appropriate for continued use phases. The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute is taking the lead in the task to advance the understanding of materials impact on human health, ecological health, and materials reutilization. As an initial step, the following market analysis identifies opportunities to increase the number of textile and fashion related products eligible for Cradle to Cradle certification in the fashion industry. Emphasis is given to material and product types with a high frequency of use and/or high Cradle to Cradle Certification potential. This market analysis provides broad recommendations for selecting types of products and materials to prioritize for the Cradle to Cradle Certified Program. However, the analysis is not intended to include all fashion and textile products with potential to be Cradle to Cradle Certified. Product and material types not included in this report may also have potential to be Cradle to Cradle Certified. Furthermore, individual products or materials that fall into a recommended product category may not be good candidates for certification depending on the product s unique product formulation and manufacturing process.

5 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 5 Background The Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM products program is a third party, multi-attribute certification administered by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute that assesses a product s safety to humans and the environment and design for future cycles. The program provides guidelines to help businesses implement the Cradle to Cradle framework, which focuses on using safe and healthy materials that can be disassembled and recycled as technical nutrients or composted as biological nutrients. The Cradle to Cradle Certified program emphasizes using healthy materials in products. All certified products must be free of all hazardous chemicals on the program s banned list. Products that are Cradle to Cradle Certified at or above the Basic level (C2C v2) or the Bronze level (C2C v3) must have chemical inventories down to the 100 parts per million level conducted by an accredited assessor and have each material evaluated for toxicity to human and environmental health. At the Silver level (C2C v3), products cannot contain any chemicals that are known carcinogens, mutagens, or reproductive toxins. Products certified at the Gold or Platinum levels (C2C v2 or v3) do not contain any materials of high risk to human or environmental health (i.e. X-Red Assessed). Unlike single-attribute eco-labels, the Cradle to Cradle Certified program takes a comprehensive approach to evaluating the design of a product and the practices employed in manufacturing the product. The materials and manufacturing practices of each certified product are assessed in five categories: Material Health, Material Reutilization, Renewable Energy Use, Water Stewardship, and Social Fairness. The Cradle to Cradle Certified program was developed in 2005 by MBDC, LLC. In 2010, William McDonough and Dr. Michael Braungart founded the non-profit Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute to manage and administer the certification program as an independent third-party organization. MBDC gifted an exclusive license to the Institute for the certification program, certification marks and material assessment methodology. MBDC is one of several worldwide accredited assessors for the certification program who evaluate products and guide manufacturers through the certification process. MBDC has worked with hundreds of product and material manufacturers to inventory, assess, and optimize their products using the Cradle to Cradle Certified methodology. MBDC was selected among the program s accredited assessors to conduct this market analysis due to the firm s vast expertise regarding the Cradle to Cradle Design Protocol and extensive role in the creation of the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM program for products.

6 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 6 Methodology As a result of this analysis, fifty product/material categories are identified as high potential candidates for the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM program. The process for identifying high potential candidates was as follows: First, ten product/material divisions were selected for prioritization for certification. Within these ten divisions, two to six product/material categories (or subdivisions) were selected. For each of these categories or subdivisions, currently available Cradle to Cradle Certified products and priority materials that would facilitate certification were identified. Approximate costs to certify a typical product and leading global manufacturers in each product category is also provided. SCOPE The scope of the material evaluations in this report was limited to chemicals and/or ingredients expected to be present in the finished material. While it s certainly important to consider process related chemistry, this market analysis focused on the materials impact to product users and the environment during recycling, composting, or disposal. PROCESS CHEMISTRY VARIES FROM SUPPLIER TO SUPPLIER, AND HENCE THESE ISSUES WOULD BE CHARACTERIZED AND EVALUATED DURING THE DETAILED C2C CERTIFICATION PROCESS BY A CRADLE TO CRADLE CERTIFIEDTM LICENSED ASSESSOR. PRODUCT DIVISIONS Ten (10) product divisions were selected based on the following considerations: Ubiquity across fashion and textile market sectors High potential for material health optimization, with priority given to product types that utilize materials with little to no toxicity High potential for material utilization through continuous nutrient cycling, both technical and biological

7 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 7 Listed below are the ten product/material divisions selected for the market analysis: Technical Nutrient Fibers Performance Additives Biological Nutrient Finishes Fibers Fiber Blends Apparel Accessories - Fasteners Dyes Fashion Accessories Pigments Thread MATERIAL CATEGORIES (SUBDIVISIONS) Within each of the ten product divisions, two to six material types were selected based on the following considerations: Inclusion of materials in a wide range of textile/fashion products High sales volumes or prevalence in fashion industry High potential for optimization for material health (i.e. nontoxic base materials) High potential for nutrient cycling at end of use PRIORITY MATERIALS For each of the ten categories, materials were identified as a priority for assessment, optimization and certification. Priority materials are commonly used ingredients in the fashion industry that have exhibited toxicity to humans and/or the environment. If these priority materials (or gateway materials ) were optimized for safety to human and environmental health (and Cradle to Cradle Certified), they would facilitate certification for a wide range garments, apparel, and accessories.

8 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 8 The priority materials identified in this market analysis are prioritized into three tiers based on: Degree of toxicity to human and environmental health Prevalence of the material in the priority product categories Availability of safe and healthy options in that material category OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS Optimization recommendations listed in this analysis are examples. The Accredited Assessment Body that is selected will use the Cradle to Cradle design principles and Cradle to Cradle Certified Standard to determine unique optimization recommendations for the product during the assessment process. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. ASSESSMENT AND OPTIMIZATION COSTS The Accredited Assessment Body that is selected will determine Assessment and Optimization costs for the material. These costs will vary based on the number of unique chemicals found in each specific product and the complexity of individual manufacturers supply chains and processes. The costs are estimated based on the projected complexity of a typical product in that category and based on the number of unique chemicals that are anticipated to be in the product down to the 100 parts per million level. Assessment and Optimization costs can be mitigated if component materials in the product are already Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM. For example, the Assessment cost may be reduced for a dress if it uses a Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM fabric and if the specific assessment of this fabric is applicable to the dresses certification scope (same standard version, certification level, and exposure scenarios). In such cases, the fabric would not be included in calculating the cost of the assessment. This is one reason why priority materials that are common to many fashion products are singled out in this market analysis. Increasing the number of Cradle to Cradle Certified materials will help reduce the certification cost for fashion products that use these component materials. CERTIFICATION FEES The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute (C2CPII) charges fees associated with certification of a product or product group in the Cradle to Cradle Certified Products Program. These fees are separate from the fees charged by an Accredited Assessment Body for product assessment, testing, and optimization strategies. The current C2CPII fee schedule is available at:

9 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 9 Market Analysis

10 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 10 Technical Nutrient Fibers

11 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 11

12 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 12

13 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 13 Technical Nutrient Fibers POLYPROPYLENE MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW PREFERRED: Polypropylene has a favorable human and ecological health profile as a base fiber. Its sole monomer, propylene, is relatively non-toxic to humans or the environment. Typical catalysts used in processing have little to no toxicity as well. As a base fiber, polypropylene is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Pigments and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Polypropylene usually is made from non-renewable, nonbiodegradable petrochemical feedstock and hence is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. However, technical nutrient potential is high since polypropylene is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re- extrusion. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Investigate the feasibility of bio-based polypropylene from renewable feedstocks such as sugarcane Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

14 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 14 POLYETHYLENE MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW PREFERRED: Polyethylene has a favorable human and ecological health profile as a base fiber. Its sole monomer, ethylene, is relatively non-toxic to humans or the environment. Typical catalysts used in processing have little to no toxicity as well. As a base fiber, polyethylene is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Pigments and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Polyethylene usually is made from non-renewable, nonbiodegradable petrochemical feedstock and hence is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. Bio-based polyethylene products are currently being introduced to the market, but their potential for use in apparel is not yet clear. Technical nutrient potential is very high since polyethylene is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion. Collection and recycling infrastructure is widely in place globally. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Investigate the feasibility of bio-based polypropylene from renewable feedstocks such as sugarcane Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

15 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 15 POLYESTER (POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE, PET) MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Traditional PET is problematic from a human and ecological health perspective. While its common monomers-ethylene glycol, terephthalic acid, and/or dimethyl terephthalate are not more than moderately toxic to humans or the environment, the typical catalyst used in processing is antimony trioxide, a suspected human carcinogen. There is evidence that antimony trioxide does leach into the biosphere during the dying process, and there is growing concern in the NGO community that antimony may become bioavailable in textile use as well1. Hence, as a base fiber, traditional PET is problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. PREFERRED: There are preferred titanium-based catalysts being utilized in the market currently. These titanium based catalysts allow for production of a Cradle to Cradle Preferred PET fiber. Product examples are Johnson Matthey s catalyst Vertec2 and Teijin s heavy metal free polyester chip3. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: PET is usually made from non-renewable, non-biodegradable petrochemical feedstock with a toxic catalyst and hence is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. Bio-based PET resins are currently being introduced to the market, but the catalyst must still be optimized in these resins as well. Technical nutrient potential could be considered very high since PET is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion. Collection and recycling infrastructure is widely in place globally. However, due to the toxic catalyst in traditional PET nutrient potential is limited from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: There are many depolymerization technologies that, if commercialized, would allow for traditionally catalyzed PET to be upcycled into optimized PET via removal of antimony catalyst during the depolymerization process. Hence, technical nutrient potential would be high under this scenario.

16 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 16 PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: PET with optimized chemistry would be classified as an ideal technical nutrient. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Reformulate chemistry to specify titanium-based (or equivalent) catalyst in PET manufacture Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. NYLON 6 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW PREFERRED: Nylon 6 is preferred from a human and ecological health perspective. It has a single monomer, caprolactam, which is no more than moderately toxic to humans or the environment. Additionally, it is not expected that any residual caprolactam will remain with finished fiber4. As a base fiber, Nylon 6 is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Nylon 6 is made from non-renewable, non- biodegradable petrochemical feedstock and therefore is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. Technical nutrient potential is very high since Nylon 6 is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion. A unique property of Nylon 6

17 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 17 is that it also may be chemically recycled through a depolymerization process. The product of this chemical recycling process is caprolactam monomer that has been purified from colorants and additives and can be repolymerized into new nylon 6 with no loss of performance. Chemical recycling of Nylon 6 is presently occurring in the United States, most notably at the Evergreen Nylon Recycling facility in Augusta, Georgia. The ability to recycle Nylon 6 while changing colors and performance additives at each iteration means that it can truly be upcycled through continuous use phases. This is an ideal technical nutrient from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. NYLON 6.6 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW PREFERRED: Nylon 6,6 is preferred from a human and ecological health perspective. Both of it s monomers, hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid, have little to no toxicity to humans or the environment. As a base fiber, Nylon 6,6 is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients.

18 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 18 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Nylon 6,6 is made from non-renewable, nonbiodegradable petrochemical feedstock and therefore is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. Technical nutrient potential is high since Nylon 6,6 is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. SPANDEX ELASTANE MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Spandex is a polyurethane-polyurea copolymer made from a two-step reaction involving macroglycol, diisocyanate, and diamine monomers. Diisocyanates have strong sensitizing potential to skin and airways. Ideally there would be little residual monomer in a finished fiber, but this would depend on the quality of the manufacturing process. The possibility of residual isocyanate molecules is a cause of concern for human health. Therefore, as a base fiber, Spandex is problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients.

19 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 19 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Spandex is often made from non-renewable, non-biodegradable petrochemical feedstock. While it is possible to utilize soy-based glycol monomers, the diisocyanate and diamine are most often synthesized from non-renewable petrochemicals. Hence, Spandex is not a suitable biological nutrient. Technical nutrient potential is also very low due to the thermoset properties of this polymer. Thermosets, by nature, cannot be easily melted and hence mechanical recycling via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion is not possible. There is little to no nutrient potential for Spandex since it will likely be downcycled into low quality material during each use phase. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Development of a new elastomer appropriate for biological nutrient cycles to be used with denim and other biological nutrient fibers *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

20 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 20 Biological Nutrient Fibers

21 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 21

22 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 22 Biological Nutrient Fibers SILK Silk is a natural protein fiber most commonly obtained from cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori. In most cases, these silkworms are raised and harvested in captivity. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The most common method of harvesting silk from the silkworm cocoons involves boiling the cocoon to soften the fibers for ease of spinning. This process involves the death of the silkworm pupa. Additionally, there exists a possibility of toxic pesticide residue in the silk if the silkworm fed on treated mulberry leaves at a sub-lethal dose of pesticide. Since the presence of a pesticide in mulberry may be a result of cross-crop contamination or intentional treatment, the possibility of pesticide residue is an issue for consideration7,8 Cultivated silk is typically de-gummed to remove sericin content. This process allows for the smooth property of the raw protein fiber. This process also reduces the harvested weight of the silk. This weight is recovered by bathing the silk in a bath of tin-phosphate-silicate salts. Although the toxicity of the weighting bath chemicals depends on the specific metal used, the potential of skin irritation, sensitization, and other toxicity endpoints warrants further investigation. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Silk harvested from worms that were not exposed to pesticides during their feeding phase would be preferred from a C2C perspective. However, the ethical issue of silkworm mortality should be considered when evaluating the ecological health characteristics of silk. Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Silk should be an ideal biological nutrient as it is made simply of animal protein. Silk that is harvested without the use of pesticides on mulberry leaves used to feed silkworms would be considered compostable and thus a biological nutrient.

23 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 23 NOT PREFERRED: Silk that is harvested from worms that fed on pesticide-treated mulberry leaves would have no nutrient potential due to the likely presence of bioaccumulative, persistent, and possibly toxic pesticide residue in the fibers. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Ethical silk harvesting Mulberry leaf cultivation without the use of harmful pesticides Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Recurring pesticide testing protocol and supply chain audits to ensure quality of silk *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. COTTON MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Cotton is typically grown with the use of pesticides and herbicides. Many common pesticides used in cotton production contain halogenated organic compounds that are persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic to humans and the environment. Halogenated organic compounds are molecules that contain either a bromine, fluorine, or chlorine attached to a carbon atom. As a class, these chemicals are not suitable from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. PREFERRED: Cotton, grown without the use of harmful pesticides, is preferred from a human and ecological health perspective. POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients.

24 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 24 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Cotton could be an ideal biological nutrient as it is made simply of plant cellulose. Cotton that is harvested without the use of harmful pesticides would be considered compostable and thus a biological nutrient. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Conventional cotton that is grown with the use of pesticides and herbicides would have no nutrient potential due to the likely presence of bioaccumulative, persistent, and possibly toxic pesticide residue in the fibers. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Cotton cultivation and harvesting without the use of harmful pesticides Recurring pesticide testing protocol and supply chain audits to ensure quality of cotton Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. MANUFACTURED CELLULOSICS: Rayon and acetate are the two most common manufactured cellulosic fibers available on the market. These are discussed in two separate sections below. It is important to note that rayon made from bamboo is misleading in that no traits of the original bamboo plant remain in the finished fabric even though bamboo may have been used as a raw material early in the process.

25 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 25 RAYON MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Rayon is a cellulosic fiber most commonly obtained from wood pulp. Often, the wood pulp is chlorine bleached which may result in the presence of highly toxic dioxins in rayon. Specifically, polychlorinated dibenzo-p-dioxins are of major concern due to their persistence in the environment, bioaccumulative potential, and extreme toxicity. The toxic effects of dioxins include adverse reproductive, developmental, and immune system effects, endocrine disruption and hormone mimicry, mutagenicity, and cancer. Chlorine bleaching processes vary from country to country. Elemental chlorine bleaching has the highest potential to form dioxin byproducts. In many developed countries, chlorine dioxide is used instead and is thought to produce lower levels of dioxin that elemental chlorine processes. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Rayon manufactured from wood that has not been chlorine bleached or bleached at all eliminates the chance for dioxin formation. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Rayon that utilizes a chlorine free bleaching process is considered biodegradable9 and has biological nutrient potential assuming all other dyes and additives are safe for biological cycles. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Rayon that is made from chlorine-bleached wood pulp is not suitable for composting or recycling due to the possible presence of toxic, persistent, and bioaccumulative dioxins. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Manufacture rayon with unbleached or chlorine-free bleach wood pulp Encourage use of lyocell process which utilizes benign process chemicals, has a high solvent reutilization rate, and non-toxic effluent. Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals

26 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 26 Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Recurring testing for chlorinated organic compounds to ensure no dioxin *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. ACETATE Acetate, similar to Rayon, is a cellulose fiber manufactured from wood pulp or cotton linters. It is often used in bridal wear, luxurious wear, and other applications that require draping. It is a delicate fiber that requires dry cleaning and has poor abrasion resistance. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The wood pulp from which acetate fibers are derived may be chlorine bleached which could result in the presence of highly toxic dioxins in acetate. Specifically, polychlorinated dibenzo-p-dioxins are of major concern due to their persistence in the environment, bioaccumulative potential, and extreme toxicity. The toxic effects of dioxins include adverse reproductive, developmental, and immune system effects, endocrine disruption and hormone mimicry, mutagenicity, and cancer. Chlorine bleaching processes vary from country to country. Elemental chlorine bleaching has the highest potential to form dioxin byproducts. In many developed countries, chlorine dioxide is used instead and is thought to produce lower levels of dioxin that elemental chlorine processes. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Acetate manufactured from wood that has not been chlorine bleached or bleached at all eliminates the chance for dioxin formation. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Dyes, pigments, and performance additives vary based on intended application of the fiber. Please refer to following sections in the report for a discussion of these ingredients.

27 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 27 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Acetate that utilizes a chlorine free bleaching process has biological nutrient potential assuming all other dyes and additives are safe for biological cycles. Pure acetate polymer is compostable. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Acetate that is made from chlorine-bleached wood pulp is not suitable for composting or recycling due to the possible presence of toxic, persistent, and bioaccumulative dioxins. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Manufacture acetate with unbleached or chlorine-free bleach wood pulp Recurring testing for chlorinated organic compounds to ensure no dioxin Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. POLYLACTIC ACID (PLA) PLA is a thermoplastic aliphatic polyester derived from renewable resources, such as corn starch (in the United States), tapioca roots, chips or starch (mostly in Asia), or sugarcane (in the rest of the world). PLA is used in many of the same applications as PET, PE, and PP.

28 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 28 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: PLA is derived from starch and, as a base polymer, has no toxicity concerns. When catalyzed with an alternative catalyst, such as Natureworks Ingeo, PLA is a preferred base fiber for textiles NOT PREFERRED / C2C BANNED: If PLA is polymerized with an organotin catalyst, it will be considered highly problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective due to the potential of catalytic residue in the PLA fiber. Certain organotins, such as dibutyl tin and tributyl tin, are suspected endocrine disruptors and are banned from Cradle to Cradle certification. Additionally, PLA is typically manufactured from genetically modified (GMO) corn. There is much debate on the value/risk of utilization of GMO feedstock. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL BUILOGICAL NUTRIENT: PLA with optimized catalyst, colorants, and additives has high potential as a biological nutrient as it is compostable in industrial compost systems. PLA is not yet suitable for backyard composting due to the requirements for heat, moisture, and ph for proper degradation. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: PLA may be mechanically recycled in the same manner as PET since both are part of the polyester family of polymers. PLA is easily ground, melted and reextruded. In addition, there is technology in development that will allow for PLA depolymerization similar to Nylon 6. Depolymerization would allow for upcycling of PLA through continuous use phases. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: PLA that is polymerized with organotin catalysts have no nutrient potential due to the high level of toxicity associated with organotins. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Manufacture PLA with optimized catalyst avoiding organotins completely Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness

29 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 29 *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute WOOL Wool is a natural protein fiber that grows from the follicles of the sheep s skin. It is like human hair in that it is composed of keratin-type protein. Its ability to absorb and release moisture makes woolen garments comfortable as well as warm. Two thirds of wool is used in the manufacture of garments, including sweaters, dresses, coats, suits and active sportswear. Blended with other natural or synthetic fibers, wool adds drape and crease resistance. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Wool from sheep treated with pesticides is problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. Pesticide residue on wool fibers can adversely affect human and ecological health, as many of these chemicals are persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic. Some common effects of these pesticides are nervous system damage, high aquatic toxicity, and endocrine disruption. NOT PREFERRED: Chlorine-based anti-shrink treatments may be applied to wool to prevent felting during wash cycles. These treatments may be toxic to humans and the environment and would potentially eliminate biological nutrient potential of the wool fiber. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Wool harvested without the use of harmful pesticides, and hence would not exhibit any toxicity to humans or the environment. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Wool harvested without the use of harmful pesticides and with optimized colorants/additives would be a preferred biological nutrient. Wool, as a base fiber is readily biodegradable and compostable. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Although wool can technically be mechanically recycled via shredding and reprocessing, the quality of the recycled wool typically is lower than that of its original state. This is due to shortening of fibers during the shredding phase. Hence, it is likely that the wool will be downcycled. A process that allows for no fiber degeneration during recycling process would potentially allow for true technical nutrition for wool textiles.

30 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 30 NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Conventional wool grown and harvested using toxic pesticides has no nutrient potential OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Encourage the expansion of wool market harvested without the use of harmful pesticides Develop composting partnerships for optimized wool Specify chlorine-free or organohalogen-free wool treatments Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Recurring pesticide testing protocol and supply chain audits to ensure quality of wool Ensure wool is not harvested from suppliers that utilize mulesing (skin removal) methods of pest prevention *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. LINEN (FLAX) Linen is made of fibers from the flax plant and has been used for clothing for more than 10,000 years. Linen is much stronger than cotton and is naturally resistant to bugs, dirt, and stains. Because of linen s moisture wicking properties and hollow fiber core it is a preferred fabric for warm and humid climates.

31 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 31 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Flax fiber is naturally pest resistant and hence requires little to no pesticides for linen harvesting. Organic linen, guaranteed to contain no pesticides, would be a preferred base fiber from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Linen is most often woven from flax fibers that required no pesticides. It is biodegradable and compostable. If colorants and additives were optimized, linen would be considered an ideal biological nutrient. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Develop preferred list of colorants and additives to take advantage of linen s biological nutrient potential Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Encourage use of dew retting or enzymatic retting due to water pollution concerns with traditional retting procedures Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

32 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 32 Fiber Blends

33 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 33

34 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 34 Fiber Blends TECHNICAL/BIOLOGICAL BLENDS Common blends that are made of a combination of technical and biological nutrient fibers include polyester/cotton, nylon/cotton, polyester/wool, and polyester/viscose rayon. These individual fiber types are discussed in the Technical and Biological Nutrient Fiber sections of this report. Please refer to those sections for further information. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Any type of technical/biological fiber blends utilizing polyester that is derived from an antimony catalyzed reaction is a concern from a human and ecological health perspective. Another concern is the use of biological contaminated with the use of halogenated organics. More specifically through the use of problematic pesticides in the growing of cotton, treatment of pesticides on sheep, and the utilization of bleaching agents in the manufacturing of viscous rayon. PREFERRED: Polyester (PET) fiber with a titanium-based catalyst is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. Also, the use of cotton grown without the use of harmful pesticides, wool harvested without the use of harmful pesticides, and rayon that does not use chlorine based bleaching processes in its manufacturing are both preferred from the Cradle to Cradle perspective. Finally, nylon as a raw material input (i.e. does not contain any additive or colorants) is also preferred. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: All types of technical/biological fiber blends are considered material hybrids, and are problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. When blending a technical nutrient fiber with a biological nutrient fiber, downcycling is the likely pathway at the end of each use phase. More specifically, the synthetic fibers (polyester and nylon) impede the ability for the fiber blend to be biodegraded, and the cellulosic fibers affect the ability of the synthetic fibers to be infinitely recycled and re-used. Various types of fiber blends containing a mix of technical nutrients and biological nutrients can only achieve the basic level of certification under Version 3.0 of the Cradle to Cradle Certified program, unless there is a documented process for material recovery and nutrient re-use.

35 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 35 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Development of a new technology that can separate technical nutrient fibers from biological nutrient fibers in blends. *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. TECHNICAL/TECHNICAL BLENDS Common blends of two technical nutrient fibers include polyester/nylon, nylon/modified nylon, and polyester/modified polyester. These individual fiber types are discussed in the Technical and Biological Nutrient Fiber sections of this report. Please refer to those sections for further information. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Any type of technical/technical fiber blends utilizing polyester (PET) that is derived from an antimony catalyzed reaction is a concern from a human and ecological health perspective. PREFERRED: PET fiber with a titanium-based catalyst is preferred from a Cradle to Cradle standpoint. Also, nylon as a raw material input (i.e. does not contain any additive or colorants) is preferred for use from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Polyester/nylon blends are difficult to recycle. These blends would likely be downcycled via mechanical grinding and utilized as filler in various materials. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: There are some emerging depolymerization technologies for polyester/modified polyester blended fibers that, if commercialized, would allow for traditionally catalyzed PET to be upcycled into optimized PET via removal of antimony catalyst during the depolymerization process. Hence, technical nutrient potential would be high under this scenario.

36 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 36 Concerning nylon/modified nylon blended fibers the specific type of nylon will greatly impact the reutilization potential. More specifically, the use of nylon 6 as the backbone of each synthetic fiber would allow the overall material to be deemed an ideal technical nutrient due to its chemical recyclability. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Use of titanium-based (0r equivalent) catalyst in PET manufacture Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Develop recycling technology to ensure individual fibers are recycled or upcycled *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. BIOLOGICAL/BIOLOGICAL BLENDS Common blends of two biological nutrient fibers include cotton/wool, rayon/wool, and acetate/ rayon. These individual fiber types are discussed in the Biological Nutrient Fiber sections of this report. Please refer to those sections for further information. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Any type of biological fiber blends that have been contaminated with the use of halogenated organics are problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective; more specifically through the use of problematic pesticides in the growing of cotton and wool, and the utilization of chlorine based bleaching agents in the manufacturing of viscous rayon and acetate fibers. PREFERRED: Cotton/wool grown without the use of harmful pesticides, and rayon/acetate derived from a non-chlorine-bleached manufacturing process are all preferred for use from the Cradle to Cradle perspective.

37 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 37 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Cotton/wool, grown without the contamination of harmful pesticides would be considered ideal biological nutrients. Also, rayon/acetate that is manufactured without the using a chlorinated bleaching agent would provide an excellent biological nutrient as well. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Any fiber blend that contains organohalogen contamination in the form of pesticide residues, or that utilized a chlorinated bleaching agent during its manufacturing would have no nutrient potential. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Encourage the use of wool and cotton grown without the use of harmful pesticides Encourage the use of chlorine-free bleaching processes for rayon and acetate Specify colorants containing no halogenated organic compounds or toxic heavy metals Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Recurring pesticide testing protocol and supply chain audits to ensure fabric quality *To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

38 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 38 Dyes

39 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 39

40 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 40 Dyes DIRECT DYES These types of water soluble dyes are defined as, anionic dyes substantive to cellulose when applied from an aqueous bath containing electrolytes.10 The cellulosic fibers referenced above include cotton, rayon, and linen while the electrolytes are typically a variety of salts which maintain a steady ph throughout the dyeing process. There are three major classes of direct dyes: Class A Self Leveling Direct Dyes: These dyes are characterized by having excellent leveling characteristics (i.e. agents that promote the penetration of a dye into a given substrate), and have the ability to dye evenly regardless of when the salts are added. Class B Controllable Dyes: Include dyes that are have poor leveling or migration ability, and need to be dyed with special attention to when, and how much of a given salt is added to the dyebath. Class C salt and Temperature Controllable Dyes: Includes dyes that require special attention to the amount of electrolytes added during dyeing process, when they are added, and how much of a given electrolyte is added to the dyebath. This class of direct dyes also requires special attention to the temperature of the dyebath during the dying process. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Direct dyes, as a class, have moderate potential from a human and environmental health perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with direct dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some direct dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any direct dye compound that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint.

41 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 41 Carcinogenic Byproducts: Many direct dyes have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when two nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain types of bacteria. In certain instances, this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Any direct dye that release carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage is problematic for use. Ecotoxicity: Direct dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of direct dyes prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. These issues are especially relevant when using direct dyes because of the effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. Therefore, any direct dyes that have high aquatic toxicity, the ability to persist in the environment, and/or the ability to bioaccumulate in organisms are typically flagged as problematic. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Direct dyes are primarily employed with biological nutrient fibers. However, since direct dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade, they are not appropriate for use in this application. Additionally, direct dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality if composted with a fiber substrate. POTENTIALLY TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Direct dyes with no toxicity may be appropriate for use if the fibers or other substrate to which they are attached are designed as technical nutrients. (However, note that direct dyes are not typically employed in dyeing technical nutrient fibers). OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred direct dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness

42 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 42 Design cellulosic fabrics for recycling instead of composting if direct dyes will be used *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute REACTIVE DYES Reactive dyes are typically utilized on cellulosic substrate such as cotton, rayon, linen, ramie, hemp, and jute and can provide bright and vibrant colors. This aesthetic characteristic is a main reason why reactive dyes are chosen in lieu of direct dyes. Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with the fiber substrate and are therefore some of the most long-lasting dyes on the market. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Reactive dyes, as a class, have moderate potential from a human and environmental health perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with reactive dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some reactive dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any reactive dye compound that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint. Carcinogenic Byproducts: Some reactive dyes have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when two nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain types of bacteria. In certain cases, this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Reactive dyes that release carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage are problematic for use. Halogenated Organic Content: Another issue associated with the use of reactive dyes is the presence non-hydrolysable halogenated organic dye molecules. Specific halogens that can be found bound to carbon in dye molecules are chlorine, fluorine, and bromine. Organohalogens are problematic due to their persistence, bioaccumulative potential, and possible toxicity to humans and the environment.

43 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 43 Sensitization: Reactive dyes, as a class, have higher than average potential to cause an allergic response via skin contact and via inhalation. This is referred to as sensitization. Sensitizing dyes should be avoided when possible. Ecotoxicity: Reactive dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of direct dyes prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. These issues are especially relevant when using direct dyes because of the effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. Therefore, any reactive dyes that have high aquatic toxicity, the ability to persist in the environment, and/or the ability to bioaccumulate in organisms are typically flagged as problematic. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Reactive dyes are primarily employed in dyeing biological nutrient fibers. However, since reactive dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade, they are not appropriate for use in this application. Additionally, reactive dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality of composted with a fiber substrate. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Reactive dyes with no toxicity may be appropriate for use if the substrate to which they are attached is designed as a technical nutrient. (However, note that these dyes are not typically employed in dyeing technical nutrient fibers) OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred reactive dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Design cellulosic fabrics for recycling instead of composting if reactive dyes will be used. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

44 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 44 VAT DYES Vat dyes are an extremely old class of dyes with a history of use going back 5,000 years. The molecular structure of vat dyes is based on the indigo molecule. Indigo was initially derived from the plant Indigofera tinctoria; however, indigo dyes are currently synthetically derived as the synthetic dyes have heightened performance characteristics as compared to their natural counterparts. Vat dyeing is especially important in apparel manufacturing because nearly all denim is dyed using this method. Nearly all of the vat dyes currently in the marketplace today utilized the following two compounds as a structural backbone: Anthraquinone Indigo The method of vat dying is quite similar to that of direct dyes. The one difference is that vat dyes come in the form of an insoluble powder. The vat dye is then exposed to an alkaline solution thus undergoing reduction. This act of reduction allows the dye to dissolve in the dye bath, and begins the migration on to the cellulosic fiber. Discussion of process chemicals such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents and soaping agents is beyond the scope of this analysis and report; however, process chemicals are important to consider due to their great potential for contact with aquatic ecosystems. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Vat dyes, as a class, have moderate potential from a human and environmental health perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with reactive dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some vat dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any vat dye compound that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint.

45 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 45 Halogenated Organic Content: Another issue associated with the use of vat dyes is the presence non-hydrolysable halogenated organic dye molecules. Specific halogens that can be found bound to carbon in dye molecules are chlorine and bromine. Organohalogens are problematic due to their persistence, bioaccumulative potential, and possible toxicity to humans and the environment. Ecotoxicity: Vat dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment.the structure of vat dyes can prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. These issues are especially relevant when using vat dyes because of the effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. Therefore, any vat dyes that have high aquatic toxicity, the ability to persist in the environment, and/or the ability to bioaccumulate in organisms are typically flagged as problematic. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Vat dyes are employed in dyeing biological nutrient fibers. However, since vat dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade, they are not appropriate for use in this application. Additionally, vat dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality of composted with a fiber substrate. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Vat dyes with no toxicity may be appropriate for use if the substrate to which they are attached is designed as a technical nutrient. (However, note that these dyes are not typically employed in dyeing technical nutrient fibers) OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred vat dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Design cellulosic fabrics for recycling instead of composting if vat dyes will be used. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness

46 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 46 *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute DISPERSE DYES Disperse dyes are water insoluble and are typically utilized to dye man-made (i.e. synthetic) fibers including polyester, acrylic, acetate, nylon, and polyurethane fibers.11 Nearly 90% of all polyester fibers can only be dyed using this dying process. As expected there are several differences between dying man-made fibers and cellulosicbased fibers. The major difference concerning the specific chemistry of disperse dyes is the nonionic nature of these dyes. The nonionic characteristics are required due to the nonionic nature of the synthetic fibers themselves. In the case of disperse dyes, salt bathes are unnecessary because disperse dyes are unchanged by the presence of any such salts. Therefore, the use of a dispersing agent is necessary in the dye solution. These dispersing agents are almost always in the form of a surfactant which stabilizes the disperse dye in the aqueous environment. As with most dyes in the marketplace today, the overwhelming majority of disperse dyes are monoazo in structure. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Disperse dyes, as a class, have moderate potential from a human and environmental health perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with disperse dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some disperse dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any disperse dye compound that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint. Carcinogenic Byproducts: Some disperse dyes have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when two nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain

47 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 47 types of bacteria. In certain cases, this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Any disperse dyes that release carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage are problematic for use. Halogenated Organic Content: Another issue associated with the use of disperse dyes is the presence non-hydrolysable halogenated organic dye molecules. Specific halogens that can be found bound to carbon in dye molecules are chlorine, fluorine, and bromine. Organohalogens are problematic due to their persistence, bioaccumulative potential, and possible toxicity to humans and the environment. Ecotoxicity: Disperse dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of direct dyes prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. These issues are of high concern when dealing with disperse dyes for two reasons. The first is due to the resulting effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. The second issue, specific to disperse dyes, is the necessity for a dispersing agent. Certain dispersing agents have been found to have elevated aquatic toxicity. Any disperse dyes and dispersing agents that have high aquatic toxicity, the ability to persist in the environment, and/or the ability to bioaccumulate in organisms are flagged as problematic. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Since disperse dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade, they are not appropriate for use in biological nutrient fibers. Additionally, disperse dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality of composted with a fiber substrate. (However, note that disperse dyes are not typically employed in dyeing biological nutrient fibers) POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Disperse dyes are typically employed in dyeing technical nutrient type fibers. Those dyes with low toxicity would be appropriate for use in this application. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred disperse dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy

48 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 48 Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. ACID DYES Acid dyes are water-soluble and are utilized to dye cellulosic fibers such as silk and wool, as well as the synthetic fiber nylon. One universal characteristic of acid dyes is the negative charge associated with the dye molecule itself. Due to the stability of certain metals in acid conditions several types of metals are traditionally utilized in the acid dye process, including: Chromium à Cr(III) or Cr(VI) Copper Cobalt Nickel Any process that involves metalized compounds during a specific dying process can be identified as a mordant dying process due to the need of a mordant (metal compound) to assist in the dying application. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Acid dyes, as a class, have moderate to low potential from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with acid dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some acid dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any acid dye compound that is identified as a mutagen problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint.

49 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 49 Carcinogenic Byproducts: Some acid dyes have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when 2 nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain types of bacteria. In certain cases, this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Acid dyes that release carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage are problematic for use. Halogenated Organic Content: Another issue associated with the use of acid dyes is the presence non-hydrolysable halogenated organic dye molecules. Specific halogens that can be found bound to carbon in dye molecules are chlorine, fluorine, and bromine. Organohalogens are problematic due to their persistence, bioaccumulative potential, and possible toxicity to humans and the environment Heavy Metal Content: The use of acid dyes is also of concern due to the utilization of heavy metal containing complexes. The use of heavy metals is problematic from a human and environmental toxicity perspective. Dyes containing heavy metals like hexavalent chromium, cobalt, and nickel have been found to be carcinogens, mutagens, and reproductive toxins. Ecotoxicity: Acid dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of acid dyes prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates particularly if the dye molecules are metallized. These issues are of high concern when dealing with acid dyes because of the resulting effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. This is especially problematic in the case of acid dyes due to the potential presence of heavy metal based dye compounds. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Acid dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade and so are not appropriate for use with biological nutrient fibers such as silk and wool. Additionally, acid dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality if composted with a fiber substrate. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Acid dyes with no toxicity may be appropriate for use with technical nutrient type fibers such as nylon.

50 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 50 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred acid dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. BASIC DYES These types of soluble cationic dyes are utilized to color certain types of polyester and nylon fibers, specifically the types of modified fibers that cannot be dyed using the traditional disperse process. Basic dyes can also be used to dye certain types of leather. They are much like their acid counterparts, but with the major difference being that once dissociation occurs the colored quantity is positively charged whereas with acid dyes the colored portion is negatively charged after dissociation in the dye bath. One interesting characteristic of basic dyes is the multitude of different types of chromophores (i.e. atoms or groups whose presence is responsible for the color of a compound). MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Basic dyes, as a class, have moderate to low potential from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. Since each dyestuff within this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with basic dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some basic dyes have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any basic dye compound that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint.

51 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 51 Carcinogenic Byproducts: Some basic dyes have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when two nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain types of bacteria. In certain cases, this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Basic dyes that release carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage are problematic for use. Ecotoxicity: Basic dyes have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of basic dyes prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these dyes may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. These issues are especially concerning when dealing with basic dyes because of the resulting effluent that is created during the dye process. More specifically, after the dyeing process, the contents of the dye bath may be released as a component of the manufacturing facility s wastewater. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Basic dyes are typically not expected to biodegrade and so are not appropriate for use in dyeing biological nutrient fibers. Additionally, basic dyes that have toxicity concerns would adversely affect soil quality of composted with a fiber substrate. Note that basic dyes are not typically employed in dyeing biological nutrient fibers; however, they may be employed in dyeing leather. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Basic dyes are typically employed in dyeing technical nutrient type fibers including polyester and nylon. Basic dyes with no toxicity may be appropriate in this application. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Identification of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred basic dyes with at least a red, blue, and yellow for use with the trichromatic approach to color matching Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

52 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 52 Pigments

53 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 53

54 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 54 Pigments PIGMENTS Pigments are the largest class of materials that can be utilized to color a specific substrate. Also, pigments are the most diverse colorants in regards to the types of substrates they can affect. Pigments can be used to color the following materials/substrates: cosmetics, concrete, ceramics, elastomers, food, magnetic tapes, paints, paper, plastics, printing inks, and textile fibers.12 The following list includes all the possible types of pigments utilized in the textile industry: Inorganic oxide pigments: o Iron oxide (various types) o Titanium oxide o Copper carbonates o Zinc oxide Metal-based pigments o Cadmium o Chromium o Cobalt o Lead o Mercury o Copper Phthalocyanine Organic pigments (including halogenated species) o Unmetallized azo o Quinacridone o Perylene Carbon black

55 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 55 The major difference between pigments and dyes is that pigments are not soluble in their applied media and do not contain any aqueous solubilizing groups. Due to the fact that pigments do not contain any solubilizing groups in their molecular structure the need for some vehicle to allow the pigment to stabilize during the process is needed, namely binders. Binders encapsulate the pigment molecule, and assist the pigment with fusing the desired substrate. Within the textile industry there are 3 ways in which to carry out the pigmentation process: Pigment padding: This process involves a dye bath along with binder, antimigrant, and a wetting agent13. This type of pigmentation is utilized for modified nylon and PET fibers that cannot use the traditional methods of dyes (disperse dyes and basic dyes) Pigment printing Exhaust pigmenting Mass pigmenting (Solution dying) Mass pigmenting is by far the most important when discussing the coloration of certain manmade synthetic fibers like polypropylene or polyethylene. The mass pigmenting process occurs when pigments are dispersed, in the form of a pellet, into a polymer mass. The mixture is then heated to right above the melting point and allowed to uniformly mix. The mixture is then extruded and spun to provide the resulting colored fiber. The pigments utilized in the process above are most often referred to as color concentrates. Note that color concentrates can also contain various additives. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED, ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Pigments, as a class, have low to moderate potential from a human and environmental health perspective. Since each pigment with this class may have unique human and ecological health characteristics, a Cradle to Cradle assessment must be performed individually. Some hazards that may be associated with reactive dyes are: Mutagenicity: Some pigments have been identified as mutagenic through the use of cytotoxicity assays such as Ames assays, sister chromatid exchange assay, chromosomal aberration assay, micronucleus assay, Chinese hamster ovary cell assay (CHO), and unscheduled DNA synthesis assay. Any pigment that is identified as a mutagen is problematic from the Cradle to Cradle standpoint.

56 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 56 Carcinogenic Byproducts: Some pigments have been characterized as problematic due to the presence of azo linkages in their structure. Azo linkages occur when two nitrogen atoms are double bonded to one another. This occurrence can allow for reductive cleavage of the azo linkage in the presence of a chemical reducing agent and/or by certain types of bacteria. In certain cases this reductive cleavage has been shown to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Pigments that releases carcinogenic amines as a result of reductive cleavage are problematic for use. Halogenated Organic Content: Another issue associated with the use of pigments is the presence of halogenated organic pigments. Specific halogens that can be found bound to carbon in pigment molecules are chlorine, fluorine, and bromine. Organohalogens are problematic due to their persistence, bioaccumulative potential, and possible toxicity to humans and the environment. Heavy Metal Content: The use of pigments is a concern when analyzed from a Cradle to Cradle perspective due to the possible utilization of heavy metal containing complexes. The use of heavy metals is problematic from a human and environmental toxicity perspective. Pigments can contain heavy metals like hexavalent chromium, cobalt, cadmium, lead and mercury. These metals have all been found to be carcinogens, mutagens, and reproductive toxins. Ecotoxicity: Pigments have the potential for toxicity to the environment. In general, the structures of pigments prevent rapid biodegradation in soil, air, or water. In some cases, these pigments may also bioaccumulate in tissue and have toxic effects on fish, algae, and aquatic invertebrates. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT OR TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Pigments that are inorganically based are considered acceptable for use in biological or technical nutrient textiles. Upon degradation of biological nutrient substrates, inorganic pigments can provide beneficial nutrients to the soil. In addition, inorganic pigments typically do not interfere with the recyclability of bases fibers. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Certain pigments are not appropriate for use with biological or technical nutrient fibers employed in apparel applications. These include heavy metal-based pigments, organic pigments containing organohalogens, and pigment molecules that have been identified as carcinogens or produce carcinogenic by-products.

57 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 57 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Increased utilization of Cradle to Cradle acceptable or preferred pigments with at least a red, blue, and yellow for trichromatic approach to color matching. Inorganic oxides are of particular interest. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness Utilize solution dye process when possible due to lack of water effluent and inputs associated with this process *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

58 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 58 Performance Additives

59 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 59

60 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 60 Performance Additives ANTIOXIDANTS This type of compound is utilized within the synthetic textile industry to decrease the likelihood of oxidation resulting in the loss of performance characteristics i.e. loss of strength and flexibility. Oxidation occurs when oxygen and ozone molecules in the air directly react with the carbon atoms in polymers (polyethylene and polypropylene). This process is more likely to occur at high temperatures and therefore these agents are also referred to as heat or thermal stabilizers. The two most widely used types of antioxidants in the marketplace today are phosphate-based compounds and phenolics.15 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW ACCEPTABLE AND/OR POSSIBLY PREFERRED: The majority of human and ecological health data has shown antioxidants to be at most moderately problematic from a human and environmental health perspective. Antioxidants that are low to moderately toxic to humans or environment will be considered acceptable for use from the Cradle to Cradle perspective. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Antioxidants that have no toxicity and are biodegradable are appropriate for biological nutrient substrates. There are current antioxidants on the market that meet these criteria. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Antioxidants that have no toxicity are appropriate for technical nutrient substrates. There are current antioxidants on the market that meet this criterion. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Acceptable and preferred antioxidants exist in the market. It is recommended only that a selection of these substances be subjected to a full Cradle to Cradle review and certification to facilitate their widespread use in more complex Cradle to Cradle certified products. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy

61 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 61 Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. UV STABILIZERS These substances are added to textiles to provide resistance to ultraviolet (UV) degradation of fibers and colorants. UV degradation results when UV light (light wavelengths that range from 10 nm-400 nm, and is invisible to the human eye) reacts with the backbone of synthetic and cellulosic fiber resulting in the release of free radicals. These free radicals then can affect textiles in two ways. First, they can result in cracking of the fiber or total fiber disintegration. This is primarily a concern for some of the synthetic fibers, in particular nylon, polypropylene and elastane.16 Secondly, the free radicals can interfere with dyes, and pigments causing discoloring. The most widely used UV stabilizers in the market place today are in the family of oligomeric hindered amines. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW ACCEPTABLE OR POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: A large portion of UV stabilizers that have been reviewed during Cradle to Cradle certification work have been identified as either acceptable or preferred for use with respect to human and environmental health. See the listing at the beginning of the performance additives section for possible product options. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: UV stabilizers that have no toxicity and are biodegradable are appropriate for biological nutrient substrates. There are current UV stabilizers on the market that meet these criteria. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: UV stabilizers that have no toxicity are appropriate for technical nutrient substrates. There are current UV stabilizers on the market that meet this criterion.

62 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 62 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Acceptable and preferred UV stabilizers exist in the market. It is recommended that a selection of these substances be subjected to a full Cradle to Cradle review and certification to facilitate their widespread use in more complex Cradle to Cradle Certified products. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. PLASTICIZERS Plasticizers are utilized in the textile industry to reduce rigidity and increase workability of polymers. The majority (80-90%) of plasticizers in use today are employed in PVC applications.17,18 One common application for plasticizers in textiles is as part of protective coatings for use in high use seating and flexible fabric structures. In the context of apparel, plasticizers are primarily used to soften binder films used in textile printing and pigment dyeing processes. These films are commonly based on PVC, but acrylic based films are available as well. There are a variety of plasticizers utilized today including phthalates, trimellitates such as tri- 2-ethylhexyl trimellitate, and adipates such as di(2-ethyl hexyl) adipate (DEHA). Recent additions to the market include bio-based and biodegradable plasticizers such as: alkyl citrates, and soy-based plasticizers (e.g. epoxidized soybean oil). Plasticizers are either incorporated into the polymer matrix as an addition to the end of each monomer segment, or extruded as part of the polymer soup during fiber production. These are referred to as internal and external plasticizers respectively. External plasticizers are more likely to leach from a product during use.

63 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 63 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED/C2C BANNED: Plasticizers have been at the forefront of human and environmental health for several years. Certain types of plasticizers are extremely harmful to humans and the environment. The three most problematic plasticizers from a human health, and environmental health standpoint are bis(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate, butyl benzyl phthalate, and dibutyl phthalate. All three have been identified as endocrine disruptors, and the majority has been found to be carcinogens, mutagens, teratogens, and reproductive toxins. PVC is also another extremely problematic compound that has traditionally been utilized as a plasticizer within the polymer industry. PVC is also a banned substance within the Cradle to Cradle Certified program. POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: Although a full review of all possible alternatives is out of scope for this analysis, at least some of the trimellitates and adipates are potentially acceptable for use. The available toxicity data suggest that tri-2-ethylhexyl trimellitate is acceptable, however data is lacking in some areas, in particular for carcinogenicity.17 Note that this substance is primarily employed in PVC applications. Di(2-ethyl hexyl) adipate (DEHA) is also potentially acceptable for use although it does leach from the polymer matrix which is of concern in some applications such as food contact. ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: In the context of textile printing and pigment dyeing, potential alternatives to the problematic phthalates are silicones18 which typically exhibit low human and environmental toxicity. The commonly employed alkyl citrate, acetyl tri-n-butyl citrate is also of interest due to its rapid biodegradation potential. Alkylsulphonic phenyl ester is another substance of interest for this application. 19, 20as is epoxidized soybean oil (ESBO). NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Banned substances such PVC and the problematic phthalates discussed above are not appropriate for either the biological or technical metabolism. POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: To be considered acceptable for use in coatings used on biological nutrient fibers, plasticizers would need to be biodegradable as well as safe for humans and the environmental upon degradation. The items listed as acceptable or preferred in the material health section above have potential for use with biological nutrient fibers.

64 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 64 POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: For use in coatings applied to technical nutrient fibers, plasticizers would need to exhibit low toxicity to humans and the environment and, if they are not themselves recyclable, not interfere with recycling of the base fiber. Note that coated textiles are difficult to recycle, although recycling is technically possible. Items listed as potentially acceptable, acceptable and preferred in the material health review have potential for use with technical nutrient fibers. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Textile printing and coating systems that are not based on PVC Water based acrylic textile printing that does not require the addition of problematic phthalate plasticizers (in some cases plasticizers may not be necessary at all). One interesting possibility for further review are Evonik s Delgan printing inks.21 Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

65 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 65 Finishes

66 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 66

67 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 67

68 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 68 Finishes SOIL & STAIN REPELLANTS MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The most common soil and stain resistant additives and coatings employed in the textile industry are based on polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and other fluorochemicals. Fluorinated organic compounds in general are flagged as problematic by the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM program due a variety of human health and environmental toxicity concerns. Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which is used in the manufacture of some fluorochemicals, is associated with developmental and other adverse effects, is very persistent, and has been found at low levels in the environment and in the blood of the general population.24 PFOA may also be released when PTFE is exposed to high temperatures. Note that PFOA has been, or is currently being, phased out by major industrial users.25 Some soil and stain resistant additives and coatings such as GreenShield and AquapelTM (which claims to be fluorochemical free; discussed further in water repellent section26) employ proprietary nanoparticles. In general, the effects of nanoparticles on human health and the environment are not fully understood.27 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Due to the certain interaction of apparel finishes with the biosphere, such substances are best designed as biological nutrients. However, soil and stain resistant agents currently employed in apparel applications are not bio-based or biodegradable. In addition, problematic (i.e. X-assessed) materials such as fluorinated compounds and the textiles on which they are applied are not appropriate for recycling and may not count toward the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM Material Reutilization score. Fluorinated compounds and textiles with such compounds applied would therefore only be certifiable at the Basic level. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Non-halogenated soil and stain resistant additives/coatings

69 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 69 Soil and stain resistant additive/coatings that can safely be recycled and/or composted with base fibers Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. WATER REPELLENTS & WATERPROOFING MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Fluorochemicals are the most important class of repellents for textiles. In addition to providing soil and stain resistance, fluorochemicals are also employed as water repelling and waterproofing agents.28 Trade names of waterproofing agents based on fluorochemistry include Gore-Tex and event. (Note that these products are actually laminates of one or more substances in addition to PTFE) Fluorochemicals in general are flagged as problematic by the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM program due to a range of human and environmental health concerns. See the soil and stain section for further information. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Sympatex and DSM s Arnitel VT (a Cradle to Cradle certified product)are likely to be acceptable or preferred if preferred catalysts such as those based on titanium are employed as opposed to antimony trioxide. Arkema s proprietary Pebax and Dow s Active Layer appear to be similar products and may also be acceptable or preferred. Silicones are commonly employed in manufacture of water repellant textiles.29 Silicones are typically associated with low toxicity. Silicone based water repellants have good potential to receive an acceptable material health assessment depending on the exact chemistry.

70 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 70 Polyurethane (PU) coatings are another class of water repelling and proofing agents. These may be used alone or in combination with fluorochemicals or other layers. Polyurethanes have the potential to receive acceptable material health ratings depending on the exact chemistry in use and assuming that any problematic monomers such as 4,4'-Diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI) have fully reacted and are present only at low concentrations in the final product (i.e. <0.1%). Waterproofing agents may also be based on modified melamine resins blended with waxes. These may be employed alone or as fluorochemical extenders.30 Melamine resins may be acceptable from a material health perspective depending on the exact chemistry as long as any residual formaldehyde is present only at very low concentrations (i.e. <0.01%). Waxes are also often acceptable or preferred from a material health perspective. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW Due to the certain interaction of apparel finishes with the biosphere, such substances are best designed either as biological nutrients or as technical nutrients that are safe for contact with humans and the environment. NOT PREFERRED: The water repellant and water proofing agents currently employed in apparel applications are not bio-based or biodegradable. Problematic materials, such as those containing fluorochemicals, are not appropriate for recycling. Such substances and the textiles on which they are applied may not count toward the Material Reutilization score. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Sympatex and Arnitel are two waterproofing layers or agents that are reportedly recyclable on their own and if applied to similar base fibers (i.e. polyester). These products are the most likely of those reviewed to be good technical nutrients in the context of apparel. Arnitel VT is in fact already certified at the Silver level under program version Another potentially interesting material is Arkema s Pebax. Arkema offers a recycling program for Pebax and textiles coated with this product. Pebax is also manufactured with renewable bio-based content. 31, 32 Several other water repelling and proofing substances currently in use are potentially recyclable when on their own including silicones,33 polyurethanes, paraffin wax, and melamine resins. However, once bound to dissimilar textile base fibers, recycling of water repellant and waterproofing substances is typically not possible. In general, recycling of coated textiles is difficult and not widely practiced, although it does occur at some facilities.34

71 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 71 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Non-halogenated water repelling and waterproofing agents Water repelling and waterproofing agents that may be recycled with textile fibers (Smpatex and Arnitel are of interest) and are also safe for human and environmental interaction. Textiles that do not require waterproofing agents such as Ventile Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. ANTI-WRINKLE / EASY CARE / DURABLE PRESS MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The glyoxal resin dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) is the dominant durable press textile finishing agent. Glyoxal resins modified with diethylene glycol are also common. These are used primarily on cotton and cotton blend textiles. Textiles treated with DMDHEU release small amounts of formaldehyde over time. Sensitization is of concern, in particular for the most sensitive individuals.35, 36, 37 Formaldehyde is also a carcinogen, mutagen and reproductive toxin. Diethylene glycol modified DMDHEU products release somewhat less formaldehyde than fabric treated with DMDHEU.38, 39 These materials are potentially problematic depending on the exact formulation, formaldehyde content and release rate from the final cured product. 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) is a good alternative to DMDHEU from a performance perspective although mutagenicity is of concern based on positive Ames tests. In addition, the cost is currently much higher than DMDHEU, so it has not been widely adopted.40

72 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 72 POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: Citric acid is an alternative currently in development that is, on its own, preferred from a material health perspective. Note that additional inputs may be required to overcome some of the technical difficulties with this material.41 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: DMDHEU is manufactured primarily from petrochemical precursors and so is most appropriate as a technical nutrient, but it is employed primarily on cotton, a biological nutrient. Problematic (i.e. X-assessed) substances and the textiles on which they are applied are not appropriate for either the technical or biological nutrient cycles within the context of apparel. However, DMDEHU is predicted to be readily biodegradable42 and low levels of formaldehyde have been shown not to interfere with composting of biological nutrients such composite wood products.43 Therefore, composting of cottons with DMDHEU applied is not expected to be problematic. PREFERRED BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Citric acid is primarily manufactured from biological sources and is readily biodegradable, it is therefore appropriate as a biological nutrient and for use as a finishing agent for cotton textiles. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Anti-wrinkle/durable press finishes designed for the biological cycle. Further development of citric acid is of particular interest. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

73 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 73 ANTI-MICROBIALS MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW Antimicrobials in general are designed to be toxic and are therefore typically problematic from a material health perspective. In addition to the toxicity issues discussed below, development of microbial resistance is of concern when broadcasting essentially any antimicrobial substance. Triclosan, silane quaternary ammonium compounds, and silver-based compounds are the primary antimicrobials used in apparel applications. Polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB), zinc pyrithione, and organotins may also be employed. NOT PREFERRED / C2C BANNED: Organotins (tributyltin and trioctyltin) are banned from the Cradle to Cradle Certified program and are highly regulated in the EU and elsewhere; however, these substances are still employed. Organotins are highly toxic to aquatic organisms and are also endocrine disruptors. A recent Greenpeace reported noted their presence in several top apparel brands.44 NOT PREFERRED: Triclosan is a suspected endocrine disruptor, very toxic to aquatic organisms, persistent, and moderately bioaccumulative based on structure. The production and incineration of this product may lead to dioxin formation. The product may also contain trace impurities of dioxins and dibenzofurans. Triclosan is a halogenated organic substance; such substances are flagged as problematic by the Cradle to Cradle Certified program due to a variety of toxicity concerns.45 Biocidal silver includes different silver forms that act as sources of silver ions (Ag+) which ultimately provide the antimicrobial effect. There are three main groups of commercially available silver antimicrobials: silver ion exchangers, silver salts and silver metal. 46 Ionic silver is highly toxic to aquatic organisms. Data are somewhat contradictory regarding removal from wastewater treatment plants, bioavailability, and persistence in the aquatic environment.47, 48 Bioaccumulation is of concern for some aquatic organisms.49 Environmental fate and the effects of ionic and nano silver on aquatic organisms is currently an active area of research. Ionic silver is currently flagged as problematic by MBDC. Zinc pyrithione has high acute toxicity and aquatic toxicity. It has not traditionally been thought to be persistent or bioaccumulative, but recent information suggests otherwise for some organisms.50 Zinc pyrithione is predicted to be not readily biodegradable.51

74 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 74 Polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) is very toxic to aquatic organisms, but reportedly unlikely to bioaccumulate. PHMB is not readily biodegradable. Sensitization is also of concern.52 NOT PREFERRED OR ACCEPTABLE: Silane quaternary ammonium compounds are highly toxic to aquatic organisms; however, they are not expected to contaminate surface or ground water due to rapid degradation by hydrolysis.53 These substances are corrosive and there is some evidence indicating that skin sensitization may be of concern.54 There is perhaps potential for these substances to be acceptable for use, but toxicity and environmental fate data are somewhat lacking. Full data and review of specific substances would be necessary to make a final determination. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Because of their certain contact with the biosphere in this application, antimicrobials should be designed as biological nutrients or technical nutrients that are safe for human and environmental interactions. This is unfortunately in conflict with their primary function as a substance toxic to microorganisms. The substances described above are not appropriate for the biological or technical cycle POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Quaternary ammonium compounds may have some potential but further data is needed. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Biocides that rapidly degrade or are not bioavailable once introduced to the aquatic environment including wastewater treatment plants and surface waters. Chitosan is one material still in development that is potentially of interest.55 Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

75 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 75 FLAME RETARDANTS Flame retardants are primarily used in specialized apparel such as uniforms and work clothes. Some textiles such as polyester are inherently flame resistant (thus their common use for making children s pajamas). Common flame retardants found in textiles include several brominated (i.e. halogenated) organic compounds and phosphorous-based molecules. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Halogenated organics in general are flagged as problematic due to a variety of human health and environmental issues. Several brominated flame retardants are already banned for use in apparel in the EU and elsewhere due to these concerns.56 POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: As a class, phosphorous-based flame retardants are preferable to halogenated organic flame retardants. However, each substance should be assessed for its potential effects to human health and the environment. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Problematic substances and the textiles on which they are applied are not appropriate for either the technical or biological cycle in the context of apparel. POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT / TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Non-halogenated flame retardants have potential to be part of both technical and biological metabolisms depending on their human and environmental health assessment results. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Non-halogenated flame retardants Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

76 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 76 ANTISTATIC/ANTISTAT AGENTS Non-durable antistatic agents are often applied to nylon and polyester as part of spinning oil due to the tendency of these materials to hold static electricity. Antistatic agents are commonly based on quaternary ammonium compounds such as ditallowdimethylammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) or similar, and phosphoric acid ester derivatives.57, 58 MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED / C2C BANNED: Although apparently not commonly used in this particular application, nonylphenol and octylphenol ethoxylates are widely used surfactants in the textile industry that may be employed as antistatic agents. Degradation products of nonylphenol and octylphenol ethoxylates are endocrine disruptors. A recent Greenpeace report found these substances to be present in many apparel products manufactured by several top brands.59 NOT PREFERRED: Dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride (DODMAC) is the major component in the technical product DHTDMAC. This substance is highly toxic to aquatic organisms and is not biodegradable. This substance is also corrosive. 60, 61, 62 Note that there are also a variety of other quaternary ammonium compounds in use, some of which may be acceptable. POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: Phosphoric acid ester derivatives have the potential to be acceptable as this class of substances is associated with low toxicity. For example, Clariant s Afilan appears as though it may be acceptable based on the Material Safety Data Sheet.63 Note that data on specific substances would need to be fully reviewed to give a definitive assessment. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Problematic substances such as nonylphenol and octylphenol ethoxylates, DHTDMAC, DODMAC and the textiles on which they are applied are not appropriate for either the technical or biological cycle in the context of apparel. POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Although not from bio-based sources, at least some phosphoric acid esters are reportedly readily biodegradable which would be appropriate due to an antistatic agent s certain interaction with the biosphere in textile applications.

77 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 77 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Non-halogenated or alkyl phenol ethoxylated components Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

78 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 78 Apparel Accessories: Fasteners

79 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 79

80 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 80 Apparel Accessories: Fasteners ZIPPERS MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: Zipper elements or teeth and slider are made from metal (brass, aluminum, zinc, stainless steel), polyester, acetyl homopolymers (e.g. Delrin ), or nylon. The metal zipper components will typically be finished or painted. Zipper tape is usually made of polyester, but may also be made of vinyl, cotton, cotton-polyester blend, and other fibers. The common inputs to zippers have the potential to be acceptable or preferable as long as heavy metals such as lead and hexavalent chromium are not present at or above 0.01% in the metals and metal finishes, the polyester is not made with antimony trioxide as a catalyst, and the tape portion is not colored with problematic dyes. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: The metals and polymers employed in zipper elements and sliders are appropriate as technical nutrients. Zipper tape may be appropriate for either the technical or biological cycle depending on the substrate material. Recycling is simplified if similar materials are utilized for the entire zipper construction, as is the case with some nylon zippers. Zipper recycling is possible, and is practiced at some textile recycling facilities.65 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Ensure that metals and metal finishes have only very low concentrations of heavy metals (<0.01%) Dyes and catalysts used in zipper tape Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness

81 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 81 *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute BUTTONS Buttons are made from a wide variety of materials including metals, horn, shell, leather and wood; however, most buttons are currently made of polymers. The most common polymer in use is unsaturated polyester. Nylon 6, casein based plastic, and acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) are also employed. Colorants are typically added as well. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Unsaturated polyester resins used for button manufacture will typically be based on phthalic anhydride reacted with propylene glycol and maleic anhydride.66, 67 The final polymer is commonly diluted with styrene monomer to adjust the viscosity and form the final resin composition. A catalyst will be required as well. There is concern regarding the final concentration of styrene which is a mutagen, possibly carcinogenic, and potential endocrine disruptor. One source reports that methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (MEKPO) is used as a catalyst and cobalt octoate is used as an accelerator or promoter.68 MEKPO is not expected to be problematic once polymerization occurs while cobalt octoate is problematic due to reproductive toxicity, mutagenicity and other concerns. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: The other materials that are commonly used to make buttons all have potential for acceptable or preferred assessment ratings. In the case of metals, heavy metal content is of concern and should be investigated for both the base metal and finish (in particular lead and hexavalent chromium). See the metal fasteners section of this report for more information applicable to metal buttons. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT AND TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Buttons may be made from materials most appropriate for either the biological or technical cycles, although they are currently primarily made with technical nutrient type materials (i.e. polymers). Textile recyclers are reportedly able to recycle buttons;69 however, if problematic substances are present these materials are not appropriate for recycling.

82 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 82 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Polyester buttons with low styrene content and acceptable or preferable catalysts. Colorants will need to be investigated as well. Metal buttons with confirmed low heavy metal content. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. METAL FASTENERS HOOKS, CLASPS, RIVETS/SNAPS Hooks, clasps, rivets, snaps and similar apparel fasteners are primarily made from various metals including brass, zinc, steel and stainless steel. A variety of finishes may also be employed including hexavalent or trivalent chromate based zinc finishes, nickel plating, black oxide, and black phosphate. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW Base Metals NOT PREFERRED: Brass alloys often have lead present at 0.01% which is added to improve workability. ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Zinc alloys are typically acceptable or preferred for use The majority of steel alloys are acceptable or preferred for use although some do have lead content at or above 0.01%. This would need to be investigated for the specific fastener and alloy of interest.

83 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 83 Stainless steel is preferred or acceptable for use and has the added benefit of not requiring additional finishing layers for corrosion protection other than an acid based pickling stage. Finishes NOT PREFERRED / C2C BANNED: Hexavalent chromium based zinc finishes are problematic due to carcinogenicity, sensitization and other concerns. Such finishes are banned for use under version 3 of the Cradle to Cradle Certified standard. ACCEPTABLE: Trivalent chromium based zinc finishes are acceptable for use. NOT PREFERRED: Nickel is carcinogenic and mutagenic. Nickel finishes in skin contact applications such as this are problematic because nickel is a skin sensitizer. ACCEPTABLE OR PREFERRED: Black oxide and black phosphate finishes are preferred or acceptable for use NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: The metals used in apparel applications are technical nutrients. If problematic substances such as lead and hexavalent chromium are not present, recycling is appropriate. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Ensure that lead and hexavalent chromium are not is use within the base metal or finish (i.e. are not present at 0.01%). Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

84 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 84 VELCRO/HOOK & LOOP MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW PREFERRED: Velcro is typically made from nylon. Nylon 6 and nylon 6,6 may both be employed. For example, nylon 6 may be used for the backing and hook portion of the product while nylon 6,6, may be used for the loops.70 Both nylon 6 and nylon 6,6 are preferred for use. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: Nylon 6 and nylon 6,6 are both appropriate for the technical cycle. Nylon 6 is easier to recycle and more commonly recycled than nylon 6,6. If both materials are used together and are not easily separable, recycling is difficult. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Design for recycling by using a single input material. Approved Colorants and dyes Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

85 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 85 Fashion Accessories

86 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 86

87 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 87 Fashion Accessories HANDBAGS & BELTS Leather and imitation leather are the most common materials used to manufacture handbags and belts. A variety of leather tanning processes are available, with chromium based tanning being the most common. Alternative tanning processes are those based on other minerals (aluminum, zirconium & titanium), vegetable tannins, glutaraldehyde, synthetic resins, and animal or vegetable oils. In addition to the tanning chemicals themselves, a wide range of chemical auxiliaries are also employed. 71 Imitation leather is typically based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Alternatives to leather and imitation leather include cotton canvas, polyurethane, and polyester. Metal buckles, clasps and zippers are also employed in handbags and belts. The information in the Metal Fasteners section of this report is relevant to metal items used in handbags and belts while zippers are covered in the Zipper section. These items will not be further discussed here. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW Base Materials NOT PREFERRED / C2C BANNED: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a halogenated organic substance, is problematic due to a variety of life cycle concerns. In addition, pliable PVC often contains problematic additives such as phthalates. PVC is banned for use in the Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM program. NOT PREFERRED: Traditional PET is problematic from a human and ecological health perspective. While its common monomers-ethylene glycol, terephthalic acid, and/or dimethyl terephthalate are not more than moderately toxic to humans or the environment, the typical catalyst used in processing is antimony trioxide, a suspected human carcinogen. There is evidence that antimony trioxide does leach into the biosphere during the dying process, and there is growing concern in the NGO community that antimony may become bioavailable in textile use as well72. Hence, as a base fiber, traditional PET is problematic from a Cradle to Cradle perspective.

88 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 88 NOT PREFERRED: Polyurethane is made from a reaction involving diisocyanate and diamine monomers. Diisocyanates have strong sensitizing potential to skin and airways. Ideally there would be little residual monomer in a finished fiber, but this would depend on the quality of the manufacturing process. The possibility of residual isocyanate molecules is a cause of concern for human health for polyurethane. NOT PREFERRED OR POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: The acceptability of leather as an input material for handbags and belts depends on the tanning process employed. See below for further information. There are of course ethical issues involved with using leather as well. POTENTIALLY PERFERRED: Cotton has been discussed elsewhere in this report and is potentially a preferred alternative to the materials discussed above depending on growing protocol. PREFERRED: There are preferred titanium-based catalysts being utilized in the market currently. These titanium based catalysts allow for production of a Cradle to Cradle Preferred PET fiber. Product examples are Johnson Matthey s catalyst Vertec73 and Teijin s heavy metal free polyester chip Leather Tanning Processes NOT PREFERRED: Chrome tanning depends on the use of chromium (III) sulfate and other chromium salts. Chromium (III) may be converted into chromium (VI) during the process. Chromium (VI) may remain within the leather product such that exposure during the use phase is of concern. Sensitization is known to occur even at very low concentration levels. Chromium (VI) is also a carcinogen. There is currently a proposal to restrict chromium (VI) in leather products to 3ppm (0.0003%) in the EU. Methods of preventing the formation of chromium (VI) during processing are well understood and have reportedly been implemented across the EU. The process includes a formic acid fixation stage, the use of antioxidants such as BASF s Neutrigan and Tamol, addition of vegetable tannins, and avoidance of chromate pigments.74 NOT PREFERRED: Glutaraldehyde is mutagenic, sensitizing and associated with acute aquatic toxicity concerns (although it is readily biodegradable). NOT PREFERRED OR ACCEPTABLE: Synthetic resin tanning may include use of acrylic polymers, sulphonated phenol formaldehyde and naphthalene formaldehyde. Acrylic polymers and sulphonated phenol & naphthalene formaldehyde resins may be acceptable as long as workers are protected from exposure and problematic inputs including formaldehyde are present only at low levels within the final product. Further data on the exact materials in use would be needed to provide a definitive assessment.

89 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 89 POTENTIALLY ACCEPTABLE: Vegetable tanning has the greatest potential to be acceptable from a material health perspective depending on the specific substances in use. Tanning based on other minerals such as titanium also have potential to be acceptable; however, these processes produce a leather product that is very different from chrome tanned leather and so are not competitive as an alternative. Oil tanning also has potential although catalysts based on chromium may be employed. In addition, oil tanning processes are primarily employed in making chamois leather. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: PVC is most appropriate for the technical cycle as it is manufactured from petrochemical inputs, but due to its problematic material health status it is not appropriate for recycling (although recycling of PVC is common). NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: PET is usually made from non-renewable, non-biodegradable petrochemical feedstock with a toxic catalyst and hence is not appropriate for use as a biological nutrient. Bio-based PET resins are currently being introduced to the market, but the catalyst must still be optimized in these resins as well. Technical nutrient potential could be considered very high since PET is a thermoplastic polymer and can easily be mechanically recycled via grinding, melting, and re-extrusion. Collection and recycling infrastructure is widely in place globally. However, due to the toxic catalyst in traditional PET nutrient potential is limited from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. NO NUTRIENT POTENTIAL: Polyurethane is often made from non-renewable, nonbiodegradable petrochemical feedstock. While it is possible to utilize soy-based glycol monomers, the diisocyanate and diamine are most often synthesized from non-renewable petrochemicals. Hence, polyurethane is not a suitable biological nutrient. Technical nutrient potential is also very low due to the thermoset properties of this polymer. Thermosets, by nature, cannot be easily melted and hence mechanical recycling via grinding, melting, and reextrusion is not possible. There is little to no nutrient potential for polyurethane since it will likely be downcycled into low quality material during each use phase. POTENTIAL TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: There are many depolymerization technologies that, if commercialized, would allow for traditionally catalyzed PET to be upcycled into optimized PET via removal of antimony catalyst during the depolymerization process. Hence, technical nutrient potential would be high under this scenario. PREFERRED TECHNICAL NUTRIENT: PET with optimized chemistry would be classified as an ideal technical nutrient.

90 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 90 POTENTIAL BIOLOGICAL NUTRIENT: Leather is appropriate as a biological nutrient. Inputs to the leather tanning system that remain with the final product should therefore be designed for contact with the biosphere. Although leather can be very slow to degrade, composting is possible under optimal conditions if problematic and non-biodegradable substances are not present.75 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Work toward a positively assessed and certifiable tanning system (i.e. set of chemical inputs) for leather that are appropriate as biological nutrients. Further identification and assessment of leather alternatives Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org. ATHLETIC SHOES MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW A complete review of the potential issues surrounding the materials employed in shoes is beyond the scope of this report and analysis. However, it is useful to note several issues of concern as follows: NOT PREFERRED / SOME C2C BANNED: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a Cradle to Cradle banned substance, is a commonly employed material in shoe soles and uppers. The use of certain phthalate plasticizers are therefore also of concern.

91 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 91 Polychloroprene, another Cradle to Cradle banned substance, may be employed in adhering shoe soles to uppers.76 Foamed polyurethane is commonly used to manufacture shoe soles or components of soles. Residual monomers as well as blowing agents, some of which are carcinogenic, global warming and/or ozone depleting substances, are potentially of concern for this material type. Leather tanned using chromium based tanning processes are potentially problematic. As noted elsewhere within this report, pigments, dyes and other additives are potentially of concern as well. NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The majority of shoes on the market are made from a combination of materials which are not easily separable and therefore not easily compostable or recyclable. Such products may be limited to the Basic level of certification under Cradle to Cradle Certified program version 3.0. Note that down-cycling is possible and practiced in some cases; see for example see Nike s program to create sports surfaces with recycled athletic shoes.77 OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Shoes that are not made with the list of problematic materials listed above Shoes made of single materials to ease recycling and/or composting. Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

92 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 92 Thread

93 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 93

94 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 94 Thread THREAD Sewing thread may be made from a variety of biological and technical nutrient fibers as well as combinations of the two. The most commonly used biological nutrient thread is made from cotton; however, the usage of thread made from natural substrates is now minimal in industry applications due to technical limitations. Spun polyester is currently one of the most widely used threads. Multi-ply corespun thread is also widely used. Each ply is made from a polyester filament core with either cotton or polyester fibers wrapped around the core.78 Sewing thread is available in a wide range of colors. In addition it is often finished with various substances to improve strength, abrasion resistance and/or lubrication, or to achieve a specific functional requirement such as to provide anti-fungal, antistatic, waterproofing or fire retardant properties. In the case of synthetic threads, various additives may be employed as well. MATERIAL HEALTH REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: Thread made from polyester (PET) that is derived from an antimony catalyzed reaction is a concern from a human and ecological health perspective. Thread made from cotton that has been contaminated with halogenated organic pesticides employed in conventional cotton growing methods is also of concern. Dyes, pigments, performance additives and finishes may also be of concern Cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blends, dyes, pigments, performance additive and finishes have been covered elsewhere in this report. Please see the relevant report sections for further detail. POTENTIALLY PREFERRED: The use of PET that is synthesized with an alternative catalyst would be considered preferred for use from a Cradle to Cradle perspective. Cotton grown without the use of harmful pesticides is also preferred for use.

95 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 95 NUTRIENT POTENTIAL REVIEW NOT PREFERRED: The use of threads made from non-biodegradable technical nutrient fibers to sew apparel made from biological nutrient textiles (i.e. cotton, wool, rayon, acetate, and silk) is problematic. Core spun thread made from a combination of cotton and polyester or some other blend of biological and technical nutrients is also of concern. Please see the Fiber Blends section of this report for further detail. OPTIMIZATION RECOMMENDATIONS* Spun and core-spun polyester thread made with preferred catalysts, dyes, additives & finishes Cotton thread grown without the use of harmful pesticides Purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) and/or carbon offsets for manufacturing energy Implement closed-loop water effluent system in manufacturing facilities Become a B Corporation for social fairness *These are examples. During Cradle to Cradle Certified Product assessment, your Accredited Assessment Body will determine unique optimization recommendations for the product. To get started, contact the Fashion Positive team at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute fashionpositive@c2ccertified.org.

96 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 96 Summary The market analysis on textiles and accessories employed in the fashion industry identifies product categories and materials with great potential to impact human and ecological health. More specifically, recommendations are provided for allocating resources towards increasing the number of Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM products that have been inventoried, assessed, and optimized for human and environmental health. In order to create safe fashion, a variety of safe options are needed for all product categories. The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute as well as the design and manufacturing community can use this analysis to identify areas in which to prioritize selection of healthy materials and create demand for safe alternatives. Product manufacturers, particularly within these priority product and material categories, can view this as a call to action and an invitation to get on the path to material health.

97 CRADLE TO CRADLE PRODUCTS INNOVATION INSTITUTE 97 Appendix A: Key to Assessment Ratings