Material Risk Analysis of Three Luxury Fibers. Michael S. Andrew, MS, CIH, CSP

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1 Material Risk Analysis of Three Luxury Fibers Michael S. Andrew, MS, CIH, CSP

2 Special Thanks: SAMUEL B. MOORE, PH.D. OUROBOROS HOLDINGS, LLC Formally of Hohenstein Institute Adjunct Associate Professor NCSU College of Textiles

3 Quiz Cashmere Silk Rayon

5 Problem Statement Minimal LCA on specific fiber types (esp. luxury fibers) LCA information can be conflicting Limited tools available for fiber comparison Claims that cannot be readily confirmed or denied by such tools Textile industry is one of the longest and most complicated industrial supply chains

6 Simplified Apparel Supply Chain View Licensee Brand Marketer Retailer: Mass Merchandizer National Brand Mfg. Full Package Mfg. Sourcing Intermediary Retailer: Specialty Cut & Sew (Contract Mfg.) Raw Material Tier 2: Mills/ Dyehouse Tier 1: Assembly Final Products Sales/Marketing/Retail

7 Material Sustainability Index (MSI) Cradle-to-gate index originally developed by Nike Adopted by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) informed by life cycle assessment (LCA) derived inventory data does not represent an LCA

Rayon Rayon Rayon Rayon Material MSI Index Score* Polypropylene Fabric 32.5 Lyocell Fabric 30.2 Silk fabric 29.7 Polyester fabric, recycled 28.7 Organic cotton fabric 28.2 Cotton fabric, knit 26.

8 Rayon Rayon Rayon Rayon Material MSI Index Score* Polypropylene Fabric 32.5 Lyocell Fabric 30.2 Silk fabric 29.7 Polyester fabric, recycled 28.7 Organic cotton fabric 28.2 Cotton fabric, knit 26.6 Polyester fabric 23.3 Linen fabric 22.6 Hemp fabric 22.5 Modal fabric 21.0 Cotton fabric, woven 20.4 Wool fabric 18.8 Nylon-6,6 fabric 18.6 Rayon viscose fabric, bamboo 18.3 Rayon viscose fabric, wood 17.3 Nylon-6, fabric 16.4 Spandex fabric 13.9 *Score is out of 50. Higher score is better.

10 Panko et al (2016) A comparative evaluation of five hazard screening tools. Integrated Environmental Assessment and Management GreenScreen, GreenSuite, GreenWERCs, SciVera Lens, and the DfE Alternative Assessment Criteria for Hazard Evaluation Significant differences in the hazard characterization of various chemicals across the tools, ranging from little or no hazard/toxicity to very high hazard/toxicity determining the appropriate assessment tool to use in the selection process is of paramount importance

11 Primary Purpose of Research Summarize primary sustainability issues that may present a risk to the associated brand Specifically address the claims of several activist organizations regarding the impact of production

12 Basic Methodology Review and summarize production cycle Including breakdowns of each process step Review and summarize market sourcing risks (e.g. country) Examine activist/ngo claims in context of noted risks Inform the brand of sustainability risks throughout the specific supply chain Summarize available/potential mitigation strategies

Reference Document for the Production of Pulp, Paper and

13 Process Breakdowns Adapted from: Industrial Emissions Directive 2010/75/EU,, "Best Available Techniques (BAT) Reference Document for the Production of Pulp, Paper and Board," Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control, 2015.

14 Rayon

15 Dissolving Pulp Acid bi-sulfite Process Prehydrolysis Kraft (or Sulfate) Process

16 Viscose Vs. Lyocell (e.g. Tencel ) Lyocell Rayon Process Viscose Rayon Process Characteristic Viscose Lyocell Solvent Carbon Disulfide NMMO Solvent Recovery ~60-70% 99%+ Coagulation H 2 SO 4, Zn and Na sulfates None By-Products CS 2, H 2 SO 4, NaSO 4 NMMO Fiber Impurities to be removed Sulfur, Zn salts, miscellaneous sulfates None

17 Why should you never buy rayon product?* Dissolving-pulp (the base material for rayon/viscose) wastes approximately 70% of the tree Dissolving-pulp is sourced from endangered or ancient forests Dissolving pulp and rayon production is a chemically intensive manufacturing process *According to others

18 Highlights Lack of data to verify claims from the campaigns of a certain percentage (e.g. 30%) of loss of protected, endangered or ancient forests Wood is a renewable resource that when managed correctly using sustainable forestry and harvesting practices Toxicity impacts in the life cycle (esp. lyocell) much less than cotton or petroleum based synthetic fibers

19 Highlights Misleading claims regarding waste of trees Process Products Pulp Yield Range Dissolving Pulp Prehydrolysis Kraft Textiles % Acid sulfite Textiles % Speciality Pulp for Chemical Applications Filters 30 55% Chemical Pulp Acid (bi) sulfite Tissue, printing paper, special paper 40 54% Kraft Tissue, printing paper, special paper Magnefite Printing Paper 45 55% Semichemical Neutral Sulfite Corrugated medium, fluting 70 85% Mechanical Pulping Stone groundwood, pressure groundwood, refiner Paper, Newsprint 80 90% mechanical Thermomechanical, chemithermomechanical, chemimechanical Paper, Newsprint 93 95% Process often generates useful by-products that can be sold and used for other purposes (e.g. xylose, acetic acid, furfural, lignosulfonates, and turpentine) Creates energy surplus

Lowlights Unsustainable or illegal forestry practices exist and contribute to deforestation and loss of biodiversity conversion of land for food production poorly formulated

20 Lowlights Unsustainable or illegal forestry practices exist and contribute to deforestation and loss of biodiversity conversion of land for food production poorly formulated property rights systems widespread poverty and overpopulation short term view of forest management economics at the expense of long term forest productivity lax forest management

21 Silk Structure of raw silk filament bave Life Cycle of the Silkworm

22 Why should you never buy silk product?* The process is inhumane to silkworms because it causes them pain and suffering and results in their death Production of silk products results in discharge of toxic chemicals and impact on the environment Photo by Claude Valette (Own work) [GFDL ( or CC BY-SA ( via Wikimedia Commons *According to others Cocoons in Reeling Basin

Highlights Source materials (mulberry plants and silkworms) are renewable In a natural environment only a certain amount of moths will survive through the entire life cycle as

23 Highlights Source materials (mulberry plants and silkworms) are renewable In a natural environment only a certain amount of moths will survive through the entire life cycle as they would be subject to predation, disease, and food limitation Species Bombyx mori now 100% dependent on human intervention Generally lower chemical inputs than other fiber types

Ethics are complex and similar to raising animals for food, moral judgements required Use of agricultural chemicals Use

24 Lowlights Few alternatives exist for producing silk that does not result in the prescribed death of the majority of the larvae. Ethics are complex and similar to raising animals for food, moral judgements required Use of agricultural chemicals Use of water Occupational hazards in the cultivation of mulberry and the rearing of silkworms Exposure to pesticides / disinfectants Respiratory issues due to silk fibers/dust Silk Worm Cocoon with Pupa Exposed Silk Fabric Degumming Operation

25 Cashmere Cashmere Combing (Afghanistan) Photo by DCA-VET Cashmere combing by DCA VET [CC BY-ND 2.0 ( via Flickr

26 Why should you never buy a cashmere product?* Goats are in-humanely treated in industrial farms Raising of goats results in desertification and loss of biodiversity Production of cashmere products results in discharge of toxic chemicals and impact on the environment Shearing of a Cashmere Doe at Cashdown Goats Corindhap Vic Australa 2000 by Charles Esson [CC BY-SA 3.0 ( via en.wikipedia

27 Highlights Claims of inhumane treatment (e.g. dehorning, castration, etc.) less relevant to cashmere goats All-natural, renewable fiber that is readily biodegradable (unlike most synthetic fibers) Easily recycled into other useful product

Lowlights Potential for animal abuse in industrial farms Overgrazing due to large goat herds have been linked to the land degradation Requires significant scouring or washing to remove oils (e.g. wool grease), dust, debris and oil prior to processing High water intensity Wool Scouring Wool Scouring by CSIRO [CC BY 3.

28 Lowlights Potential for animal abuse in industrial farms Overgrazing due to large goat herds have been linked to the land degradation Requires significant scouring or washing to remove oils (e.g. wool grease), dust, debris and oil prior to processing High water intensity Wool Scouring Wool Scouring by CSIRO [CC BY 3.0 ( via

29 Country Risks Leading exporters of textiles Rank in % of EPI Country/Region Global Textile Exports Score Rank China European Union India United States Turkey South Korea Taiwan Pakistan Japan Viet Nam Indonesia Thailand United Arab Emirates Mexico EPI = Yale Environmental Performance Index Leading exporters of clothing (RMG) Rank in % of EPI Country/Region Global Textile Exports Score Rank China European Union Bangladesh Viet Nam India Turkey Indonesia United States Cambodia Malaysia Pakistan Mexico Sri Lanka Thailand

30 Common Risks After Fiber Production Spot cleaners may be sources of Chlorinated benzenes & toluenes and Chlorinated Solvents Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) may be found in wax based finishing Several types of restricted chemicals may be found in finishing formulations including: perfluorinated compounds (PFC), formaldehyde (in resins), chlorinated paraffins and flame retardants. Many dye types are restricted including certain azo dyes, allergenic disperse dyes, and carcinogenic dyes. Heavy metals may also be used as catalyst in some dyes or pigments. Chlorophenols may be used as preservatives in detergent and FWA formulations. Knitting lubricants have been a significant source of APEO surfactants and Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

31 Summary LCA may not always provide all the answers Other risks may be overlooked Occupational hygiene Impact on socioeconomics Sometimes perspective matters Though typically based on real issues, it s important to look carefully at the basis of the claims regarding sustainability

32 To know that we know what we know, and that we do not know what we do not know, that is true knowledge. - Confucius QUESTIONS?

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