NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR COSMETICS AND HOME CARE PRODUCTS: IPD and MMB. ICPC, 2016 Symposium and Exhibition İzmir, Turkey Burçak Alioğlu

Transcription

1 NEW AMPHIPHILIC COUPLING AGENTS FOR COSMETICS AND HOME CARE PRODUCTS: IPD and MMB ICPC, 2016 Symposium and Exhibition İzmir, Turkey Burçak Alioğlu

2 Agenda Introduction of IPD IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer Introduction of MMB Safety of MMB 5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

3 IPD- Isopentyldiol Chemical Name: 3-Methyl-1,3-butanediol INCI Name: Isopentyldiol Isoprene Glycol Japan, Quasi-Drug North America and Japan, 1996 REACH, 2013 Solubilizer, Moisturizer and Coupling Agent

4 Agenda Introduction of IPD IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer Introduction of MMB Safety of MMB 5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

5 Good Solubilizer for Actives * : clear after cooling to room temperature

6 Good Carrier of Actives for Transparent Formulations IPD + Active (%) Max. amount of water added to the blend IPD + Active, leading to transparent solution Lipophilic actives Hydrophilic actives Glycyrrhetinic acid (2 %) 14,30 % Salicylic acid (20 %) 4,00 % Resveratrol (8 %) 3,90 % Boswellia Serrata extract (20 %) 7,90 % IPD + Active (%) Max. amount of Di-isopropyl sebacate (oil) added to the blend IPD + Active, leading to transparent solution Trimethylglycine (8 %) 6,30 % Glabridin (6,5 %) 0,15 %

7 Wetting/Dispersing Ability of IPD Temperature, ph, oxidation stable molecule Fully water soluble Miscible with some emollients in a ratio of 1:1 (adipates, sebacates, short chain triglycerides, short chain ethers, cyclopentasiloxane) Good wetting properties of Fe02 : ratio 1/1 and with TiO2 : ratio 4/5 Better dispersion properties with silica powders (fumed and hydrated silica) than glycerin/sorbitol % Silica IPD Sorbitol Glycerin 15% Colorless opalescent fluid Colorless opalescent fluid, comparable to IPD White fluid 10% Colorless opalescent fluid Colorless opalescent fluid, slighlty more transparent than IPD Ice-white fluid 5% Colorless transparent fluid Ice-white opalescent fluid Colorless opalescent fluid, comparable to IPD

8 Stable Emulsions - IPD reduces the particle size - Microscope analysis of an O/W emulsion with and without IPD with IPD Finer emulsion without IPD Large oil droplets O/W emulsion with or without IPD* (qs water) Water 73,50% Hydrogenated Polydecene 20,00% Steareth 2 3,00% Steareth 21 1,00% Cetearyl alcohol 1,50% Preservative 1,00% * : 5% incorporated in the water phase

9 Gain in hydratation (%) Moisturizing Effect of IPD Study protocol: 5 volunteers application on forearm average value after 10 measurements made with a corneometer Study performed by IRFAQ, France Test formula Active 0 or x % without moisturising agent With 5% IPD + 5% sorbitol With 5% IPD with 0.5% Na Hyaluronate Carbomer 0.75% Cetyl alcohol 1% Glyceryl stearate/peg 100 stearate 3% Paraffinum liquidum 3% Triethanolamine 0.6% Preservative 0.7% Deionised water qs 100% 0 after 5 minutes after 60 minutes after 2 hours

10 IPD, multi functional ingredient for cosmetics Skin care Hair care Body care Baby care Colour cosmetics Cleansers Toiletries Self tanning Make-up removers

11 Agenda Introduction of IPD IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer Introduction of MMB Safety of MMB 5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

12 MMB Chemical Name: 3-Methoxy-3-Methyl-1-Butanol INCI Name: Methoxymethylbutanol Clear Liquid Fully water soluble With some affinity with lipophilic components Good wetting (HLB : 7.8) Hydrotrope* and degreasing agent Asia, 1986 * : A hydrotrope is a compound that solubilises hydrophobic compounds in aqueous solutions.

13 Agenda Introduction of IPD IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer Introduction of MMB Safety of MMB 5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

14 MMB meets safety expectations Safe Gentle to users Environmentally friendly Good safety data Registered at REACH MMB Listed at CTFA* INCI name : Methoxymethylbutanol Good biodegradability Good ecotoxicity figures Approved by US EPA* as DFE* solvent Listed in cleangredients list in 2009 * : CTFA : Cosmetic Toiletries and Fragrance Association EPA : Environmental Protection Agency DFE : Design for the Environment

15 Agenda Introduction of IPD IPD Use As a Solvent/Dispersant; Moisturizer Introduction of MMB Safety of MMB 5 Study of MMB in a Multi Purpose Cleaner

16 MMB meets market expectations Quick & Efficient Expect a fast & efficient cleaning Tested by a Technological Center Objective of the test : To compare cleaning efficiency & quickness of APC formulations containing different hydrotropes with market reference as a benchmark Test : IKW Performance test for APC Allzweck-englisch.pdf

17 Equipment used for this study A multi-track scrub tester with cloth holder (ref. Sheen 903 PG). White floor tile Visible fat-powder soil: 75% peanut oil 23% Kaolin 2% Special Black

18 Test 5 ml of : Benchmark Tested Formulation Benchmark Tested Formulation Benchmark = KH7 Leading product in Spanish market

19 Test Stop the machine when there is a difference between Benchmark and the tested formulation

20 Hydrotopes compared in the formulations Hydrotropes Conc. in formulation Ethanol (ET) 4,0 % Butylglycol (BG) 2,3 % Butyldiglycol (BDG) 2,1 % Methoxy propanol (MP) 2,2 % MethoxyMethylButanol (MMB) 1,0 % = = % Different % in order to Keep same formulation cost

21 Formulations tested % ACT. conc ET_4 MMB_1 BG_2 BDG_2 MP_2 Petresul 550 anionic Dehydol LT7 non ionic 100 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 Palmistic fatty acid EmulanHE50 emulsifier Sodium Carbonate 100 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 NaOH 50 Adj ph Adj ph Adj ph Adj ph Adj ph Ethanol MMB , Butylglycol , Butyldiglycol , methoxy-2-propanol ,17 Acticide preservative 1,5 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023 0,0023 Water ,60 82,47 82,71 82,86 82,83 ph 11.00

22 Tests Results (ETHANOL 4% vs KH7) Composition KH7 ET_4 5 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 4% Ethanol KH7 ET_4 KH7 ET_4 KH7 ET_4

23 KH7 BG_2 Tests Results (BUTYLGLYCOL 2,3% vs KH7) Composition 5 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 2.29% butylglycol KH7 BG_2 KH7 BG_2 KH7 BG_2

24 Tests Results (BUTYLDIGLYCOL 2,1% vs KH7) Composition KH7 BDG_2 5 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap,2.13% butyldiglycol KH7 BDG_2 KH7 BDG_2 KH7 BDG_2

25 Tests Results (METHOXYPROPANOL 2,2% vs KH7) Composition KH7 MP_2 5 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 2.17% methoxypropanol KH7 MP_2 KH7 MP_2 KH7 MP_2

26 Tests Results (MMB 1 % vs KH7) Composition KH7 MMB_1 5 15% non ionic surfactants, <5% anionic surfactants 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 1.03% MMB MMB_1 KH7 MMB_1 KH7 MMB_1 KH7

27 Tests Results (MMB 1 % vs MMB 4 %) Composition MMB_1 MMB_4 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 1% MMB 1.5% non ionic surfactant, 9% anionic surfactant, 1% soap, 4% MMB MMB_1 MMB_4 MMB_1 MMB_4 MMB_1 MMB_4 MMB_1 MMB_4

28 Quick & Efficient formulations with MMB Better efficiency : MMB performs better than other hydrotropes tested at same formulation cost Faster : Formulation including MMB works faster than the one s incl. other hydrotropes BDG 2,3 % ET 4 % MMB 1 % MP 2,2 % BG 2,3 %

29 MMB can help to formulate products that will meet market expectations Safe Gentle to users Environmentally friendly Quick & Efficient Expect a fast & efficient cleaning MMB MMB

30 Thank You