Salone della CSR e dell Innovazione sociale Milan. Enrico Gessner Responsible Enka Italia Srl

Transcription

1 Salone della CSR e dell Innovazione sociale Milan Enrico Gessner Responsible Enka Italia Srl

2 MARKET POSITION OF FIBRES Page: 2 (Source: Engelhard The Fiber Year ) Majority of fibres is in synthetics and cotton, but this comes at hefty costs for our environment.

3 MARKET POSITION OF VISCOSE FILAMENT Page: 3 (Source: Engelhard The Fiber Year ) Cellulosics, which account for about 6% of global demand, consist of a majority of staple fibres and a small share of endless yarns

4 Background history of viscose Page: 4 The origin of viscose filament was the idea to create a replacement of natural silk, which was desperately needed at the end of the outgoing 19 th century. While the silk worm can produce a single filament of 20 den with a length of m for its cocoon, a modern spool spinning machine can manufacture viscose filament yarns up to 30 den, consisting of 24 filaments and more with running lengths of meters and more

5 Background history Page: French chemist Anselme Payen separated cellulose from wood s second main constituent: lignin. This process was the base for the industrial manufacture of viscose

6 Background history Page: World Exposition in Paris French Count Chardonnet presented a small spinning machine which drew filaments from a liquid solution: nitrocellulose, or nitro silk Chardonnet got a patetnt: «artificial textile material, similar to silk» The concept of «artificial silk» was born even though the product was not successful because of its extreme fiammability

7 Background history Page: 7 Max Fremery Johannes Urban 1881 chemist Dr. M. Fremery and the engineer J. Urban began to produce filament lamps. They were looking for a suitable filament material. They succeeded in dissolving cotton cellulose in cuprammonium and from this solution they produced an improved filament. If drawn out this filament could be important for the textile industry. It was not flammable. With Fremery and Urban cuprammonium artificial silk was born. It was called Glanzstoff (lustrous material) because of its lustrous appearance Fremery and Urban established the Vereinigte Glanzstoff-Fabriken in Elberfeld

8 Enka Viscose Production (1) Page: 8 Obernburg (Bavaria/Germany) Started in 1924, integrated in Western Europe s most efficient multi-chemical fibres site, 350 employees, 8,000 tons/yr capacity Latest cutting-edge technology in rayon filament spoolspinning (proprietary) with a focus on flexibility and wide product range ( den) in different make-ups

9 Enka Viscose Production (2) Page: 9 Gorzow (Poland) Started in 1996 After-treatment site with a focus on twisting, coning and testing 400 employees

10 Spool Spinning Process (Overview) Page: 10

11 Spool Spinning Process (1) Page: 11

12 Spool Spinning Process (2) Page: 12

13 Use of Enka viscose Page: 13 Lining Outerwear Clean room fabrics Velvet fabrics for technical applications (wipes for semi-conductors and screens manufacturing industries) special brushes (copiers, printers) wound tissues fire protective fabrics composites and prepregs for CFRPs (Carbon fibre reinforced polymer)

14 FOREST STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL Page: 14 Use of wood from verifiable legal and sustainable forestation, where water is available in abundance Use of forestry land, which is not in competition with food production and which doesn t require any irrigation and pesticides No endangered species Harvesting of 1 cubic meter of wood per 1 acre only! FSC certified suppliers can provide and label FSC certified materials throughout the whole textile pipeline

15 Enka viscose and sustainability Page: 15 Fast fashion is a fact and the impact of the industry on the world's forests may not be immediately apparent. However, the fashion industry has a growing environmental footprint and trees are increasingly used to create textile fibres such as viscose. In recent years, the use in the fashion industry of fabrics made from forest-based fibres has increased. These fabrics can be more environmentally friendly than synthetic fibres or cotton, but only if the cellulose fibres come from properly managed and sustainable forests. Canadian not-for-profit Canopy has in fact divulged an analysis that reveals how the cellulose fibres used in the fashion world often come from ancient or endangered forests. In 2014, the CanopyStyle Initiative campaign was launched, with the aim of stopping the supply of wood from ancient and endangered forests. With over 161 partners such as H&M, GAP, Zara and Stella McCartney joining the campaign and the Forest Stewardship Council as a guarantee scheme, the initiative is making a significant impact.

16 Enka viscose and sustainability Page: 16 In 2016 ENKA GmbH & Co KG, a German company and one of the world's largest manufacturers of viscose yarns, decided to certify its production with the FSC Chain of Custody, thus guaranteeing its customers a product traced and coming from responsibly managed forests. Recently, Italy has also seen a significant growth in Chain of Custody certifications related to the textile and fashion sector, with 22 companies that have joined the Forest Stewardship Council system in the last 18 months. ENKA and FSC are therefore committed to working together to drive change in the fashion industry. Through FSC-certified forests and a supply chain driven by realities like ENKA, we aim to help businesses and consumers make informed decisions that can contribute to a greener economy and ensure that forest ecosystems meet the needs and rights of current generations without compromising those of future generations

17 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 17 - ISO 9001, ISO Standard 100 by OEKOTEX Class 1 (Appendix 6 edition ) => good for babies clothing - REACH requirements (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals) - ZDHC standard (Zero discharge of hazardous chemicals) - Current MRSLs (Manufacturing Restricted Substance List) - Current PRSLs (Product Restricted Substances List ) - DETOX standard - FSC certificate - Canopy Style certificate

18 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 18 Raw Materials FSC CoC Certificate

19 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 19 ISO 9001 and IS Certificates

20 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 20 OEKO-TEX Certificate

21 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 21 REACH Certificate

22 ENKA viscose and sustainability Page: 22