Chapter 5. BIG on QUALITY

Transcription

1 Chapter 5. BIG on QUALITY 1

2 GENERAL QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY OVERVIEW Inspection Policy All merchandise is inspected upon receipt at DLG for conformance to quality and measurement specifications. If the selected samples pass these criteria, the entire shipment is accepted. If the samples fail the inspection, the entire shipment stays on QA Hold. The procedure used is the Single Sampling Plan taken from the American National Standard Institute ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the American Society of Quality Control. The disposition of shipments placed on QA Hold is made based on discussions with the Global Sourcing, Quality Assurance, Technical and Merchandising teams in Canton, MA. If the deviation from the standards is determined to be significant, the following process may be adopted: 100% inspection and / or correct at either DLG s DC or an outside audit and repair service 100% inspection and / or correct at the Vendor Return to Vendor all defective units (RTV) Both DLG and vendor should agree upon the final disposition of a shipment. If 100% inspection or any correction occurs, charges will be assessed to vendor for operating, labor and possibly loss of sales incurred in resolving the problems and delaying the distribution of goods into our retail channels. For more information on our charge-backs and RTV policies, please refer to the charge-backs section of this manual. All correspondence should be sent to: VendorCompliance@dxlg.com 1. Merchandise Quality Standards Classification of Defects: Three defect classifications (critical, major and minor) have been selected that will be used to classify types of defects (refer to appendix 4). Only critical and major defects will be considered when applying the sampling plan. The defect descriptions follow: 2

3 Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the consumer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment. Major: Any defect that adversely affects the appearance or performance of a product, including fit or customer satisfaction. Any defect that is likely to reduce materially the usefulness of the product, or is likely to result in failure, is also a major defect. The consumer would normally be unwilling to accept such a defect, resulting in a return or complaint. Any major defects must be corrected and re-inspected before shipment leaves factory floor. Minor: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and would not provide a discerning customer with justification for return or complaint. The defect would not materially reduce the usefulness of the product, nor is it likely to result in failure. Minor defects are not considered in applying in the sampling plan. Please refer to Appendix 4 for Defect Terms and Classifications Location of Defects: The location of a defect is important in determining its classification (i.e., major or minor). Two defect zones (A and B) have been selected for all merchandise categories. Zone A: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is of major importance. i.e., center front, center back, top of sleeves Zone B: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is important but only of minor importance. i.e., lower hem, underarm, undersleeves, sides of the body. Please see sample sketches of location of defects at the end of this chapter 2. Sampling Plan Parameters: Lot Size The lot size is the amount received in one purchase order from the vendor. The lot can include all colors and sizes from one style received from the vendor in the purchase order. Sampling plan is based on each purchase order Use of Sub-Lots When necessary, additional information deemed may be needed concerning part of the total lot. A sub-lot consisting of a separate color of a SKU within the lot, or even a separate size, may be selected for inspection. In these cases, a sub-lot (i.e., one color or one size) may be accepted even though the rest of the main lot is to be rejected. It is also possible to fail a sub-lot, though the rest of the main lot is accepted. 3

4 3. Inspection Definition Normal Inspection Quantities will be used for inspection of original shipments from any vendor. Normal inspection will also be used when a vendor changes place of production, materially alters the product, or an extended period of time (4 months or longer) elapses between receipts. Refer to the AQL Plans Appendix 1. Tightened Special Inspection Quantities (larger number of items inspected) will be used after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have failed normal inspection. When tightened inspection is in effect, normal inspection will be instituted after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have been accepted. (refer to Appendix 2) Reduced Inspection Reduced Inspection will only take place under the DLG facilities. Quantities (smaller number of items inspected) will be used after five consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have been accepted under normal inspection. When reduced inspection is in effect, normal inspection will be instituted after a single shipment of an item from a vendor has been rejected. Please refer to Appendix 3 for reduced inspection plan. Reworked Lots All reworked lots or sub-lots must be inspected 100% by either the vendor, DLG or by third party of our choice. All fees and inspection charges will be charged back to vendor. All defective units must be repaired, cleaned or corrected or cannot be included in a reworked lot. All reworked lots will be inspected by DLG in the same manner as the original lots. Compliance (Package & Label) Inspection To ensure inventory accuracy, we require a separate inspection procedure on packaging and labeling (stickers, tickets, jokers, PIDs, UCC128, size labels) based on our normal single sampling plan, audit level III. Please refer to Appendix 2 There is zero tolerance on inaccurate packing and labeling, the shipment will be rejected if any single carton fails inspection. Fabric Inspection: Bulk fabric quality inspection should be performed at mill level. Fabric inspection reports must be submitted to DLG and written approvals must be received from DLG prior to cutting bulk fabrics. In-Line (During production) audits to be performed for each operation by factory/agent QA. DLG may request in line inspection reports periodically. 4

5 Final Random Inspections (FRI) are performed to assure all units shipped are first quality merchandise, packaged, packed and shipped in full compliance with requirements. FRI should be conducted when 100% of goods are produced and packed. All FRIs must be performed for each individual style and PO; it is no longer acceptable to perform final random inspections for same style across multiple POs. FRIs cannot consist of multiple styles. For agents: FRI and Compliance inspection reports must be sent to DL s attention at least 72 hours before shipment departs. For direct vendors/factories: All new direct vendors and factories must use Bureau Veritas for final random inspection on all DL private label merchandise. Bureau Veritas inspection services require a 2 week advance booking from your ex-factory date. FRI and Compliance Inspection reports must be approved by DL 72 hours before shipments exit factory. Appendix 1. AQL Normal Inspection Plan Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level II AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 2.5 Minor 4.0 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35,

6 Appendix 2. AQL Tightened Inspection Plan Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level III AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 1.5 Minor 2.5 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35, Appendix 3. AQL Reduced Inspection Plan Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level I AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 2.5 Minor 4.0 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35,

7 Testing Policy QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY DLG believes that quality must be built into the product. The purpose of testing is to assess, achieve and meet our customers satisfaction and expectations. Test result confirms 1) Government Compliance and Regulations, 2) DL s quality expectations are met. To achieve this goal we have developed fabric, component and garment test specifications and guidelines that our vendors/factories have the responsibility to achieve, maintain and to ensure the consistency of product performance. This focus is part of our ongoing process to continuously improve product quality. Our nominated exclusive testing laboratory service is Bureau Veritas and please refer to Chapter 6 Product Testing Program for lab information, guidelines, specifications and costs. Fabric Testing Pre-production / Development stage - Fabrics must go through our specification testing during development stage to verify the proper finishes, performance and requirements. Production Fabric Stage - All bulk fabrics testing should occur as soon as the fabric is correct for construction, color and finish. Testing should be planned accordingly so it will not delay bulk garment cutting and sewing. Fabric tests will help determine the primary care label instruction for the garment. Fabric lab reports must be sent to Quality Assurance Manager within hours after testing. Bulk fabrics must not be cut until a written approval is issued by DLG. Solid color fabrics - Full fabric test should be done on the first available production colorway. Other colorways are tested as Additional Colorways by abbreviated protocols. Pattern fabrics Each different pattern weave requires a full fabric test in yard dye and piece dye. Color blocked garments fabrics must be tested for color fastness and crocking in the form of a color blocked mock up. Core and E3 Replenishment Programs any core and repeat fabrics should be tested every 6 months in all colors. 7

8 Component Testing (trim, buttons, zippers, drawcords, special tapes, shanks, grommets, notions, elastic etc.) DL Group requires component testing prior to the vendor s commitment to purchase. See Component testing protocols for standards. Zippers our preferred supplier is YKK. Local manufacturing brands will only be accepted based an approved test result from Bureau Veritas. Vendors must obtain a written approval from DL prior to purchasing non YKK zippers. New programs must carry out component tests during development. Core repeat programs must test all components every 6 months or when deemed necessary due to change of suppliers. Garment Testing Garment testing is carried out to ensure the fabric, components and garment construction are compatible and meets DL s quality standard and requirements. This is to assess and verify the garment performance and its care instructions. All garment testing reports must be sent to our QA department within hours after testing. Any deviation or concerns from the test result must be addresses with our QA and Testing inspectors immediately. Bulk production cannot proceed without DL s review and approval. All production styles have to be garment tested as soon as bulk fabric, trims and labels becomes available to factory. At times, we may require garment testing during the sampling stage to verify its performance and functionality. For any programs with washing or property performance, testing should be conducted on actual garment with the actual fabric, trims, labels, properties applied, treated and or washed. Vendor/agent is responsible to notify labs about end-use of the garment and destination country (e.g. USA, EU) to ensure that proper testing is performed according to country regulations and requirements.. Repeat styles have to be re-tested every 6 months if produced by the same factory. Any change of fabric mill, trim, label suppliers and or factories/ will require immediate full testing. Sweaters testing Full testing for sweaters should be done in garment form by style. Additional colorways can be tested for colorfastness in knit-down panels. 8

9 DL Group reserves the rights to reject shipment if the testing program was not followed or test results were not accepted. Agent / Factory Responsibility - Agent/factory is responsible for ensuring there is a QA & QC process in place, in line with DL Group requirements. At the beginning of each season s development, agent/factory must review all style development specifics on fabrics, trims and fit in order to set a plan for all testing and assurance protocols. - Agent/factory is responsible for arranging testing and inspection based on time and action calendar to avoid any production delay. Any special claims on performance on special fabrics and garments must be clearly defined at the time of testing. Fabric Inspection must be performed at the mill. Fabric inspection and test reports are required and must be approved by DLG prior to bulk garment production. New factory direct vendors must use Bureau Veritas as our exclusive nominated inspection service. All inspection reports must be approved by DLG before shipment. Please contact our QA department for Bureau Veritas inspection instructions. - Vendor is responsible for all third party lab tests and inspection charges are to be paid directly to our nominated testing facilities. - Inbound QC inspection failure when a shipment is deemed unacceptable by our Distribution Center Inbound QC based on quality, measurement, or product labeling and packaging integrity; vendor is responsible for all charges related to the re-work project, including but not limited to internal DC charges, transportation to and from 3 rd party, 3 rd party re-work charges, and cost of damaged goods including freight and duty (LDP cost) and loss of sales DLG is not responsible for any import duty refund. Return to Vendor goods will be charged back at full Landed Duty Paid term. All charges related to rework will be deducted from the actual PO or the next open invoice. 9

10 Fabric Inspection Fabric inspection must be carried out at the mill and/or at the factory facilities. Inspection report must be approved by DLG before cutting and sewing. Standards for the Finished Fabrics - 4 Points System Penalty points are assigned for each defect according to the length thereof as set forth in the following table: Size of Defects (length in inches) Number of Penalty Points 3 or less 1 Over 3 but less than 6 2 Over 6 but less than 9 3 Over 9 4 Note: a) no one yard should have more than 4 penalty points. b) Any holes (2 or more broken ends) will be awarded 4 points. c) Any running defect more than 4 continuous yards will cause the roll to be rejected. 10

11 Appendix 4. Defect Terms and Classification Packing and Presentation Missing size and care label Missing hang tag Missing price tickets, price stickers and PIDs Price tickets, price stickers and PIDs placed on wrong item Wrong UCC128 placement Wrong size ratio in pre pack cases Wrong SKUs mixed in single SKU cases Improper folding Soiled/Dirty/Unsealed poly bag QTY in case does not match QTY on UCC128 label PID applied in the wrong place on polybag General Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt customer s skin No warning clause on poly bag if require Any sharp point/sharp edge on accessories Infestation of live insect Not multi-language for fiber content, Country on Origin(7 languages) and by-lingual Care Instruction (French and English) Not 5 care symbols on care label Needle detected Mildew/mold Strong odor Wet Holes Stains Mending place Missing bar tack (at significant area if specified) Different lots of shade from garment to garment. NEED BUYER'S APPROVAL Cleaning mark Shank pulls off during inspection pull test Critical Major Minor Critical Major Minor 11

12 Fabric Critical Major Minor Fabric flaw / run more than 1/2" at obvious part of a garment Fabric flaw / run more than 1" at non-obvious part of a garment Hole (any size other than pinhole) Wrong or slanted grain line Pills on surface (depends on density) Color shade difference within same garment Printing fault (depends on obviousness) Barrenness on knitted fabric (depends on obviousness) Permanent crease mark Different dye lots ( Needs buyer approval ) Accessories Any missing accessory Dimension, color, art work or content not as specified Button inside out Button marking not removed Damaged button Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, hook & bar, pins, clips Paint peel off on stud, snap and buckle Button and buttonhole not aligned causing bulge (depends on obviousness) Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through Buttonhole too big Uncut / partially cut buttonhole Ragged edges at buttonhole Broken buttonhole stitches Button thread easily pulled out 12 Critical Major Minor Wordings upside down on button / snap Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) Incomplete adhesive on interlining Illegible information on accessory Fusing bubbles/wrinkled fuse on interlining Sparse embroidery

13 Workmanship and appearance ***Stitching and seams Critical Major Minor Irregular stitch density Loose / tight stitches Crooked stitches (depends on size) Skipped stitches Broken stitches Run-off stitches 1/4" (depends on size) Blind stitching visible (depends on obviousness) Needle cutting Exposed seam grin Insufficient seam allowance Pleated seam Seam slippage (If found on more than one garment - Critical) Puckering seam (depends on obviousness) Open seam (any size) Seam not fully opened before stitching Exposed under ply seam (depends on obviousness) Abrasion feed mark (depends on obviousness) Uncut thread ends 1" or more ***Assembling Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" Critical Major Minor Asymmetrical collar (depends on obviousness) Uneven collar point 1/4" Facings pulling up Uneven sleeve length 1/2" or more Uneven leg length 1/2" or more High/low pockets 1/4" or more Pocket not smooth / squared (depends on obviousness) Pocket flap not centered over pocket 1/4" (depend on length) Misaligned of cuff / neck 1/4" (depends on length) Uneven hem line (depends on obviousness) ***Washing Different shade lots NEED BUYERS APPROVAL Uneven washing effect Critical Major Minor 13

14 Streaky mark Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) Broken collar / Cuff and Hem (depends on size) Sand on garment surface Rocks inside pockets Different washing effect (if specified) NEED BUYER S APPROVAL PRIOR SHIPPING ***Pressing Critical Major Minor Wrinkle (depends on obviousness) Seam not fully pressed open - Crease mark (depends on seriousness) Burn mark Water spot (depends on obviousness) Melt Glazed / Scorched mark (depends on obviousness) Pleated press Zip / button mark made by improper pressing Common defects in specific items Shirt Critical Major Minor Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) Exposed under collar at outside of top collar Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff Open seam at collar points Interlining seen through Flap points not fully turned out Jacket/Outerwear Critical Major Minor Puckering seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness) Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more Uneven fullness at armhole Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) Snap easily pulled off Uneven or loose elasticity on rib/bottom 14

15 Loose quilting stitches Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper Fabric easily torn at snap position A noticeable amount of down percolation on the lining Down leakage Exposed drill hole Incompatible interfacing causing cracking, puckering or bubbling Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned 1/4" or more Color yarn caught inside shell fabric but obviously seen from outside Jeans Critical Major Minor High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more Waistband corners not folded in right shape Inclined belt loops Mismatched belt loop color (depends on obviousness) Pocket bag caught in tack Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) Zip exposed when buttoned Rusted studs / rivets Twisted leg 1/2" or more Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more Knitted T-Shirt Critical Major Minor Neck opening / collar not symmetrical Asymmetric body shape Twisted body at side seam 1/2" or more Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness) Exposed row edge at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness) Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) Mismatched rib color (depends on obviousness) 15

16 Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / side seam 1/8" or above (depends on size) Neck opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) Neck opening too big Sweater Critical Major Minor Wrong knitting pattern Barre Thin/thick place Single yarn (depending on seriousness) Slub yarn Split yarn Yarn run Knots (depending on size and frequency) Hole (other than normal loop hole) Dirty yarn Dropped stitches Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above Neck / opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more Twisted body 1/2" or more at side seam Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front High/low placket 1/4" on bottom Zigzag seaming at armhole Facing exposed at placket Harsh hand feel Melt or excessive wash Spirally (10o or more) Loose linking Untrimmed seaming thread Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem Different color of seaming yarn Glazed or scorched press at seam Flat press at cable 16

17 Shiny press at seaming Less elastic at rib cuff/hem Irremovable crease line Pull-out loop Leather Garments Critical Major Minor Color shade difference within same garment Needle cutting Scratch/surgery/brand/burnt/paint/cut/stretch mark Glue/hammer mark Belly/marbled/drawn/discolored grain Dead fold mark/setting out pleats Without silica gel pack or no warning clause on it Variation in skin thickness across the garment Weak adhesion Loose hair on fur Pencil mark Button mark Hanger mark Scattered leather Grain break/peeling/wrinkles/cracks Pinholes Score Brine draw Salt pits Large hair follicle holes in pig split affecting appearance Blood stain (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) PVC Garments Critical Major Minor Fold mark (depending on seriousness) PVC torn at button PVC adhesion Needle damaged 17

18 Socks Critical Major Minor Uncut thread end Strings joining diamonds less than 1-1/4 inch Waviness at toe seam Pattern / embroidery deviated from center Misplated Twisted grain / ribs (¼ inch) Uneven toe Open seam at heel gore Pilling Barre Uneven sock length (max. 1/4 inch within the pair) Uneven sock length (max. ½ inch from pair to pair) Uneven Top width (max. 1/8 inch within the pair) Uneven Top width (max. ¼ inch from pair to pair) Spot Hole Wrong hook direction Misprint / invisible print on capper Sticker placement not centered (1/4 inch) 18

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